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99 V70 Crank, No Start


BlackWagon

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At first I though it was fuel related - I have replaced both the 107 and 103 relays and I have changed fuel filter. My fuel pump has proper pressure (checked by local shop). About every 4 or 5 times I go to start my car it will crank and act like it has no fuel, but will not start. After about 5 times of removing key, reinserting and turning to position 2 and waiting 5 seconds it will start and run fine. I have never had an issue after the car starts. There are no fault codes or CELs (check engine light).

My local tech thinks that it might be an immobilizer issue. I have searched which led me to swapping the relays and fuel filter...Do you guys have any advice or help?

Thanks in advance for your time,

Ash

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when the immobilizer goes, the engine revs up to 3000rpm and then stalls. does this happen to you or does it not start?

otherwise it could be a fuel pressure regulator gone bad which means there is no fuel at the injectors when you go to start your car after a while and you have to wait until fuel gets from the pump up to the injectors before it runs okay.

when you say it happens every four or five times, does it happen after a long time period? like not going into 7/11 and then starting your car but after 12 hours of not driving it or starting it?

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When it is having a problem, it does not rev at all. It will crank crank crank... or it will start immediatly, like normal. On two occasions, it starts for <4 seconds and dies as if it was starved for fuel. On the other 8 or so times it happened, once the car has fuel and starts, it does not die and it works as normal. I am sorry if I am not clear - let me know if I need to clarify.

It has happened after the car sat for 24 hours and after it sat for 5 minutes (like going to 7/11). Based mostly on my driving habits, it usually happens after sitting for 1.5-3 hours.

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wow, then it might be the immobilizer :( doubt it's a fuel pressure regulator if it does it after five minutes. however, you may as well check the fuel pressure at the injectors after you turn the car off to be sure it's not just the fuel pressure regulator. disconnect the ignition coil packs, crank the engine for 10 seconds with the pressure gauge attached to the valve, and then see if the pressure drops below whatever the fuel pressure regulator is supposed to hold it at after a minute or two.

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Thanks for the help. I am going back to the shop tomorrow to pull the codes. Apparently we will be able to tell if is it the immobilizer antenna based on a fault. If that is not it, based on your suggestion we will check the pressure at the injectors (that was another idea we were throwing around...).

If anyone else has an info on this, I would really appreciate it. I will make sure to post with my findings in order to help the next poor b@stard that is in the same position I am in.

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if its a imoblizer issue the car wont even turn over it , you will turn the key and the car will laugh at you :lol:

Are you sure this is the same for 99/00 70-series?

My car cranks cranks cranks....as if it is starving for fuel. It never catches - it either works or it doesnt.

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Are you sure this is the same for 99/00 70-series?

My car cranks cranks cranks....as if it is starving for fuel. It never catches - it either works or it doesnt.

when mine went alarm would go off as soon as I opened the door , and then when I put the keys in the ignition

but it does sound like attnea ring thats alittle bit different

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  • 2 weeks later...

Your car's symptoms sound very similar to something my car (1999 T5) experienced. In my case, the car would occasionally crank for a very long time (up to a minute or more) before starting. The problem occurred only when it was cold outside and the car had fully cooled off. Once started, the car would run fine. There was an occasional error code for random/multiple misfire (P0300), but I don't think it was related. The no-start problem has been fixed but the error codes continue.

All of the usual suspects were checked to no avail. (plugs, crankshaft position sensor, immobilizer, no leaking fuel injectors) An engine rebuild fixed things for a short while. One of the last times the car had the problem, it was towed (on a flatbed) to the dealership where it started nicely.

Eventually, I found the culprit, a bad ground cable between the battery and the transmission housing. About 1/3 of the strands were broken at the transmission end. That cable is way oversized for normal operation, but not for starting.

Now to track down the misfire codes, but that's a topic for another thread.

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