turbomoose Posted October 31, 2008 Report Share Posted October 31, 2008 Hello again gang! Here's a step by step on how to replace a front wheel bearing.With a small screwdriver, remove the Volvo centre cap.With the parking brake firmly set, the key removed from the ignition, and the steering wheel locked, remove the 32mm axle nut. I recommend the use of a good quality breaker bar. I use Craftsman tools, cause they rarely break, and if they do, it's lifetime replacement! Here's the Flex handle 18" Breaker bar, the 32mm 1/2" drive socket, and a large, thick cheater bar for more torque. With the car still on the ground, loosen the 5 lug nuts in a cross pattern.Now, raise the car to a height you're comfortable with. Place jack stands under the car, and remove the jack. Now remove the entire brake assembly as a whole. Carrier and caliper. Secure up and out of the way with zip ties. Remove the 10mm locating pin from the rotor and use a mallet to CAREFULLY tap around the HUBDO NOT HIT ANY SURFACE OF THE ROTOR, AND DO NOT USE TOO MUCH FORCE! You will damage the rotor! Evenly and carefully will release the rotor from the hub.The exposed hub!So you have a choice here. You can struggle with the control arm ball joint trying to separate it from the steering knuckle, which will take plenty of finessing.OR you can remove the entire control arm! There's pro's and cons. If you take the time and separate the ball joint from the steering knuckle, you wont have to tighten the two control arm to subframe bolts when the car is on level ground. If you remove the entire control arm, then you will have to spend the time tightening the 2 bolts to the subframe once the car is on level ground. I'd rather separate the ball joint from the control arm. BUT I replaced my control arms! So I had no choice! WHY must the car be on level ground you may wonder? Well, if you tighten the control arm to the subframe with the car in the air, the control arm is tightened when hanging down. When the car is lowered, the control arm becomes level, and the rubber bushings, which are tight against the subframe are then loaded with constant tension, and will fail much sooner than normal. I hope this explanation is clear.I use a large flat screwdriver to press the ball joint away from the steering knuckle, then just pull the control arm down. It helps a LOT to have a helper wiggle the steering knuckle as you pull the control arm away from the steering knuckle.And here's a shot of my control arm.Here's a view of the 4 E14 Torx bolts. It is recommended to use new bolts!With the hub/wheel bearing removed, clean the mating surfaces.Install the new hub/wheel bearing and tighten the 4 NEW E torx bolts first to 14 ftlbs of torque. Then tighten to 33 ftlbs. Then tighten an additional 60*Mate the rotor to the hub, and install the 10mm locating pin.Install the brake caliper and tighten the two carrier to steering knuckle bolts to 73 ftlbs of torque. It is also recommended to use new bolts for the carriers. Mount the rim to the car and hand tighten all 5 lug nuts. With the floor jack, raise the car off the jack stands, and lower the car to the ground.Now tighten all 5 wheel lug nuts to 81 ftlbs. of torque in a star pattern.Now it's time to tighten the 2 bolts connecting the control arm to the subframe. With the car lowered and on level ground, turn the steering wheel to access the bolts. Tighten all bolts to 51ftlbs of torque. Then tighten an additional 120*.Now straighten out the wheels, remove the key from the ignition, lock the steering column, and tighten the axle nut to 88 ftlbs, then tighten an additional 60*.Replace the Volvo centre cap and wash up! B) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
volvoskiah Posted October 31, 2008 Report Share Posted October 31, 2008 Nice writeup! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roy V. Posted October 31, 2008 Report Share Posted October 31, 2008 Completely agree, great writeup!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbomoose Posted October 31, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2008 Thanks!! Hope this helps someone! :tup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaperToast Posted October 31, 2008 Report Share Posted October 31, 2008 great info. i like the pics that helps a lot. doesnt look too hard, i think i might be able to do this one as well.if i did my own struts, this isnt too much harder is it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbomoose Posted October 31, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2008 Replacing struts is SO much easier. All you have to do is remove the two bolts holding the strut to the steering knuckle, remove the 3 bolts holding the strut mount to the strut tower. Lower the strut assembly down, get a spring compressor (you can rent these at car parts stores) compress the spring, undo the bump stop bolt, undo the cross bolt holding the spring seat to the strut, disassemble, replace strut, and put it all back together. Then you must have a front end alignment. Rear struts is even easier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
confused_al Posted October 31, 2008 Report Share Posted October 31, 2008 Much Appreciated! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
randomdude Posted October 31, 2008 Report Share Posted October 31, 2008 thanks for the write up. this job is coming up for me <_< Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlvinL Posted October 31, 2008 Report Share Posted October 31, 2008 Nice write up, but...http://volvospeed.com/Repair/FWDbearingHub.php Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbomoose Posted October 31, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2008 ^^^ That one isn't pinned in this section, which is most commonly referred to. If it had been, then I wouldn't have gone through the BS in making this one. Plus it doesn't explain the control arm re-installation like mine does. So that link has incomplete information. :P :P Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
info2x Posted October 31, 2008 Report Share Posted October 31, 2008 ^^^ That one isn't pinned in this section, which is most commonly referred to. If it had been, then I wouldn't have gone through the BS in making this one. Plus it doesn't explain the control arm re-installation like mine does. So that link has incomplete information. You are correct that it doesn't have the info on the control arm... I found that in VADIS when I was looking up torque specs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlvinL Posted November 2, 2008 Report Share Posted November 2, 2008 So true! It's now pinned into 'Useful Threads' as 'FWD Bearing Hub and Control Arm R&R'. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbomoose Posted November 2, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2008 I are a helpful Volvospeed member. :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snookwhaler Posted November 2, 2008 Report Share Posted November 2, 2008 Great write up!!Nice looking car too!Something about the white... I like it.I need to keep my eye out for one of those. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaperToast Posted November 2, 2008 Report Share Posted November 2, 2008 i got two questions for u moose that i am wondering about.1. if you pull the lower c arm, arent you going to have to get an alignment done after?2. on re-attaching the arms, on mine its a 4 bolt to the frame, i would have to tighten the bolts while car is on the ground, correct? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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