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Volvo 740gl Questions And Problems


Karen

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Hello all, I am new here and was reading through posts that seem to replicate the problems I am having with my car. However, the part lingo is foreign to me.

I have been having a starting/stalling problem with my car. There has been so many parts changed (fuel pump, fuel relay, fuel regulator, mapping sensor, fuel filter, spark plugs) and who knows what else. I also had to replace a few hoses as they had gotten brittle and were cracking. Also, the PCV valve was taken out and cleaned. It was totally clogged. The second person I saw yesterday looked at that part again and he replaced the thin hose that was attached to that as it literally cracked in half when he bent it.

My first question is how do I tell if my car has a Regina engine. I am being told different things from 2 different people (both of whom work on volvos).

My car, despite what the glovebox manual says, has a single fuel pump in the gas tank. The manual shows one along the line right behind the fuel filter. Well, there is no external fuel pump. I did call a Volvo dealership yesterday and spoke with the parts department about the fuel pump. They would only give me a PN of 3507-736 and would not even give me the PSI number. I tried calling around to local car parts stores to see if they can cross reference that number with an aftermarket part and no one could. Is there only ONE pump for this car?

As to how the car is acting: I have a hard time starting it up. It takes many times of turning the key over to even start it. I have to hold down the gas pedal to get the car to 2000 RPMs and hold it there and then slightly back off and hope that it will them idol at 1500 RPMs. From there, I can be off the gas pedal and still have to wait until the car goes down to 1000 RPMs before I move it. I get alot of hesitation, spitting and sputtering and eventually it will move more than 10-20 mph. Believe me, you don't want to be the cars behind me while I wait for the car to get moving. Once moving, I can get onto a major road and get up to 60 mph and I just hope that I make it to my destination. However, once I reach my exit and have to slow the car down, the problems start right back up again. I keep trying to switch to 2nd gear to give it a kick, sometimes it works, sometimes not.

Now, if there is anyone out there who can help me figure out my mess and link me to pictures of things such as the area to look to find out if I have a regina engine or not. I read people talking about the coil something but I have no idea what and where that is. My engine is supposedly a B230F. I was told that perhaps the engine could have been changed. I acquired the car at just about 100000K miles on it and now has about 142K.

Thank you

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Hello all, I am new here and was reading through posts that seem to replicate the problems I am having with my car. However, the part lingo is foreign to me.

I have been having a starting/stalling problem with my car. There has been so many parts changed (fuel pump, fuel relay, fuel regulator, mapping sensor, fuel filter, spark plugs) and who knows what else. I also had to replace a few hoses as they had gotten brittle and were cracking. Also, the PCV valve was taken out and cleaned. It was totally clogged. The second person I saw yesterday looked at that part again and he replaced the thin hose that was attached to that as it literally cracked in half when he bent it.

My first question is how do I tell if my car has a Regina engine. I am being told different things from 2 different people (both of whom work on volvos).

My car, despite what the glovebox manual says, has a single fuel pump in the gas tank. The manual shows one along the line right behind the fuel filter. Well, there is no external fuel pump. I did call a Volvo dealership yesterday and spoke with the parts department about the fuel pump. They would only give me a PN of 3507-736 and would not even give me the PSI number. I tried calling around to local car parts stores to see if they can cross reference that number with an aftermarket part and no one could. Is there only ONE pump for this car?

As to how the car is acting: I have a hard time starting it up. It takes many times of turning the key over to even start it. I have to hold down the gas pedal to get the car to 2000 RPMs and hold it there and then slightly back off and hope that it will them idol at 1500 RPMs. From there, I can be off the gas pedal and still have to wait until the car goes down to 1000 RPMs before I move it. I get alot of hesitation, spitting and sputtering and eventually it will move more than 10-20 mph. Believe me, you don't want to be the cars behind me while I wait for the car to get moving. Once moving, I can get onto a major road and get up to 60 mph and I just hope that I make it to my destination. However, once I reach my exit and have to slow the car down, the problems start right back up again. I keep trying to switch to 2nd gear to give it a kick, sometimes it works, sometimes not.

Now, if there is anyone out there who can help me figure out my mess and link me to pictures of things such as the area to look to find out if I have a regina engine or not. I read people talking about the coil something but I have no idea what and where that is. My engine is supposedly a B230F. I was told that perhaps the engine could have been changed. I acquired the car at just about 100000K miles on it and now has about 142K.

Thank you

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That is a Regina car. The regina ignition coil is a large square item located on the front of the left strut tower, while LH 2.4 would have a small round can shaped ignition coil behind the right strut tower.

There is only one fuel pump in the tank, there are a few aftermarket replacements.

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As to specifics on the in-tank pump, an OEM pump is around 114$

http://www.fcpgroton.com/product-exec/prod...category_id/149

Otherwise I believe certain walbro fuel pumps can be fitted in place of that, IINM they cost less. I'd search the performance forum, and maybe the maintenance forum at Turbobricks.com for which pump to use.

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As for the drivability issue, make certain the vacuum line to the MAP sensor is in good order and provides good vacuum at idle. Distributor cap/rotor and plug wires can also be a factor. Test the fuel pressure and make sure that is within spec (don't have that spec on hand here). The harness gound points at the fuel rail bolts and the main engine ground via the battery cable are critical points too. Otherwise it may be a faulty Fuel or ignition ECU.

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