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Fs: Interior Light Fading Modules


Serge

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Discount Volvospeed Price! $15 savings! That's 57% off the retail price!

1. Dome/Courtesy Light Fading Module - $20 + USPS Priority Shipping (0 in stock)

2. Instrument Light Fading Module - $20 + USPS Priority Shipping (0 in stock, made upon order)

Payment can be made through either PayPal or money order. Whichever you like more is fine, it'll just take a bit longer with a money order.

Shipping is done through USPS Priority, as it's the cheapest method and they give free boxes, so that saves you guys even more. $3.95 is what USPS Priority usually is for anything under 16oz.

Total cost for 1 module: $23.95

Total cost for 2 modules: $43.95

etc...

Payment:

If paying via PayPal and using a credit card, send it to serge@gfxcafe.com. However, if you are sending PayPal and are using money from your PayPal account, please send it to digimotive@gmail.com

If you want to pay by check or money order, PM me and I will send you my address.

Videos:

Video 1

Video 2

Video 3

Picture of the dimming module

IMG_2590_small.JPG

IMG_2588_small.JPG

DOME/COURTESY LIGHT FADING MODULE FAQ

Q: What does this do?

A: When you open and close your door, the courtesy lights overhead turn on and off. In 96+ 850s these lights gradually fade in and then dim out. However, on 95 and older Volvos, they just turn on and off. The module connects to a few wires and replicates the same way the 96+ 850s function.

Q: Do I need it?

A: It was designed out of want to have it, so if you're anything like me and like that "smooth" touch to your interior, then you DO need it.

Q: Will this work in any other car?

A: Yes! However, the Volvo-specific one will only work with certain cars. Ask me for more details.

Q: Can I use the dome/courtesy light fading module on any other lights in my car?

A: No, the way the dome/courtesy lights in 850s and 70s are designed prevents the use of these modules on any other lights in your car. HOWEVER, you can purchase the instrument fading module on any other light in the car.

Q: Where do I install this?

A: Either up in the dome-light area or under the kick panel

INSTRUMENT FADING MODULE FAQ

Q: What do these do?

A: On cars like the S60 and S80, the instrument lighting fades in and dims out when you turn then on and off. Older Volvos and many other cars do not do this. This module replicates this feature with the same amount of wiring as the dome/courtsey module does.

Q: Do I need it?

A: Refer to the FAQ above

Q: Will this work in any other car?

A: Yes! This is the most universal module out of the two.

Q: Can I use the instrument light fading module on any other lights in my car?

A: Yes! On every light except the dome/courtesy lights.

Q: What if I connect it to the dome/courtesy lights?

A: You will kill the device. Trust me, I've did this once.

Q: Does it fade in twice as fast as it dims out like the dome/courtesy light module?

A: No, this module fades in and dims out the same.

GENERAL FAQ

Q: Why the difference? They are all light bulbs afterall!

A: Indeed they are all lights bulbs. However, there are different ways they can be hooked up. For the dome/courtesy lights, they are always hooked up to a constant 12V line. The only thing that gets turned "on" and "off" to the light is the ground wire. This requires a completely different system to control them.

All the other lights in the car are designed normally (in my opinion). They have a constant ground line hooked up to them and then a 12V line gets turned "on" and "off" to them. This uses a slightly different design.

Q: Can I build them myself?

A: Of course! But no schematics, plans, designs, layouts or code will be provided from me on how to make these. We spent a large amount of time and resources developing these modules. Time and money that could've gone somewhere else (such as school and food). You can spend your own time figuring out how these are designed and writing your own code with the expense of buying parts that did not work. These modules will be patented with the intent of protecting the time and effort we put into this.

Q: How many bulbs can these run?

A: Need to do some small math. The module will carry 14 amps through it. At 12V that's equal to 168W of power. Each courtesy light bulb is 5Ws, so that 20W for the four Volvo 850 bulbs. Meaning you have pleeennnyyy more bulbs you can add. You can technically even hook these up to your headlights (instrument light fading module).

Q: Are they hard to install?

A: Not at all! 5 minutes tops if you have all your tools ready and can find the wires quickly. Installation instructions with pictures will be posted.

Q: Will you install this module for me?

A: Definitely! For a fee though ;) You'll have to come down to San Francisco, CA as well.

Q: Will you be developing the other modules you had planned?

A: Absolutely. But it all depends on if I get enough customers for this to first get me out of a negative profit.

Q: Why does it look ghetto?

A: Open up any other electronic device, it looks more or less the same. Just that we don't have custom-made boards, since those cost more than the module and require we order them in large quantities. The module works fine and you never see it anywho, who cares how it looks?

Hope you guys like these! They were designed with ease of use in-mind, hence it took so long to get to market.

Installation Instructions

IMG_2590_small.JPG

First and foremost, you have to follow these instructions to the button. If you do not and fry the module and/or your car, I shall not be liable. The install should take no more than 15 minutes if you have enough light down there and all your tools ready. Also, do not hesitate to ask questions if you do not understand something.

Parts and tools required:

* Fading/Dimming Module (d'uh)

* Torx screw driver to get under kick panel

* Wire cutters/scissors

* Some zip ties if you want to keep it neat

* Either A or B

-- A. Wire taps (available at any radioshack for a few bucks for a pack) <-- recommended!!!!!!

-- B. Wire strippers, soldering iron and heatshrink tubing or electrical tape <-- takes more time but makes a great connection if you can do it right

Okay then, let's begin.

Step 1:

Get familiar with the module's wire pin outs. There are four wires that are in three different colors.

PinOut.jpg

Reading from left to right: Output (green), Ground (black), 12 volts (red), Trigger (green). Now, you may be wondering, which green is which? The OUTPUT green is bundled next to the black and red wires. Where as the TRIGGER is a lone wire off to the right side of the board.

Step 2:

Go under the kick panel and find your target wires. There are going to be TWO bundles of wires under the kick panel coming from the Central Electrical Unit (the big white thing up there). The right-side bundle is the one closest to the pedals. The left-side bundle is the one closest to the door.

You will be interested in the following wires:

* Ground wire, solid black, found in the RIGHT bundle.

* 12V wire, solid red and thick, found in the RIGHT bundle.

* Trigger and Output wire, pink with a black stripe, found in the LEFT bundle.

NOTE: When you start out, the TRIGGER and OUTPUT wires under the kick panel are ONE wire. You will need to cut it in half to make two of them. So make sure you found the right one. The best way to tell is when you have your door open, leave the dome lights on. When you snip this wire the dome lights SHOULD turn off right away. This is a good sign, if that happens don't panic!!!

12V Wire (right bundle)

12VWire.jpg

Ground Wire (right bundle)

GroundWire.jpg

Trigger and Output Wire (left bundle)

OutputWire.jpg

Step 3:

Connect the module's wire to the 12V and the Ground wire. The 12V wire that I tapped into is the same one that goes to the brake lights. This line is ALWAYS on. This is a requirement so that the module works even when the key is not in the ignition. Do not worry however, it will not drain your battery (only uses a few milliamps, which is probably less than the stock alarm).

HookupPart1.jpg

Step 4:

Once you find the pink-black wire in the left bundle. Snip it, make sure you have enough slack to work with!

HookupPart2.jpg

Step 5:

Determine which side of the wire goes where. This step is IMPERATIVE. If you do not do this correct there is a possibility that you WILL fry the module, which I am not responsible for!

The trigger wire part of the pink/black wire is coming from the big block with the relays. It should be the part of the bundle of wires that's closer to the engine bay.

The output wire is the one that follows the bundle up towards the dash.

Step 6:

Attach the trigger side of the pink/black wire to the lone green wire on the board. Then attach the remaining side of the pink-black wire (the output side) to the green wire on the board that's closest to the black wire.

HookupPart3.jpg

Step 7:

If the lights turned on right away when you finished connecting the last wire and your dome lights are set to turn on with the door, then they should be on right now! This is a good sign!

Put your key in and put it to position II then close all open doors. The lights should gradually dim out! Now open the door and watch them fade in!

You are now DONE!

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Great, glad to see there is still interest!

We made the orders a few days ago, one supplier is shipping USPS and one is shipping UPS. But we have enough parts to build some once USPS comes.

I'll let you guys know.

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I'm definetly interested in the courtesy light module

I want to pick them up locally and meet you, if it's alright with you.

Absolutely. I am also advocating that we do a SF meet when it gets warmer. Perhaps a BBQ at Bakers Beach?

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1/2 of the parts arrived today! Using the remainder of parts we have left, it's enough to build three dome light dimmers. Enough parts to build the rest arrive on Friday.

Building and sales will begin Wednesday (I hope).

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Hey, as an electrical engineer I can appreciate the time you spent in making these. I did the exact same thing when I developed the dual aux-in modules for the stock radios. I also had a board made for those as they required more parts. If you ever need a partner to help with these projects, let me know. If that is a PIC in the socket there, then it looks like you even ended up using the same chip as I did.

Peace.

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Hey, as an electrical engineer I can appreciate the time you spent in making these.  I did the exact same thing when I developed the dual aux-in modules for the stock radios.  I also had a board made for those as they required more parts.  If you ever need a partner to help with these projects, let me know.  If that is a PIC in the socket there, then it looks like you even ended up using the same chip as I did. 

Peace.

Thanks! My friend is the EE... I'm just a hobby electronics type of person. Indeed there was a lot of time involved in making these. Especially the odd grounds associated with the 850. For some reason the Central Locking Relay would switch a false ground to me. There was still some residiual current that wasn't enough to pull the logic low.

We're actually using Atmel MCUs, you can code them in C and they are quite nice.

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Thanks! My friend is the EE... I'm just a hobby electronics type of person. Indeed there was a lot of time involved in making these. Especially the odd grounds associated with the 850. For some reason the Central Locking Relay would switch a false ground to me. There was still some residiual current that wasn't enough to pull the logic low.

We're actually using Atmel MCUs, you can code them in C and they are quite nice.

what language was that? je nais comprend pas.

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