The Silicone Hose How-to

[Gregg]

I purchased the Universal Starter Kit from HoseTechniques. This included more than enough hose, as well as plastic zip ties, HT Super Hose Cutter (Cigar cutter), and HT Super Hose Slitter (Letter Opener).

Ok, I do not know the exact/proper names for the hoses I replaced, but I will describe each one. I only replaced the 5 vacuum hoses and the coolant overflow hose. I will update with pictures tomorrow.

#1

From: Under TB Cover (1st hose down, traced in blue)

To: (not sure what to call it)

Size: 8mm

Length: probably only need about 6"-8" (my setup is different because of my boost gauge, so i had to use a little extra to get everything to fit)

#2

From: Under the TB cover (2nd hose down)

To: Turbo

Size: 4mm

Length: 30"

#3

From: blue connector on BCS

To: Air intake tube (between filter and turbo)

Size: 6mm

Length: 8"

#4

From: yellow connector on BCS

To: wastegate actuator

Size: 6mm

Length: 14"

#5

From: Red connector on BCS

To: Turbo (removed air intake tube between air filter box and turbo in order to gain access to the valve on the turbo)

Size: 6mm

Length: 23"

#6

From: coolant reservoir

To: engine

Size: 8mm

Length: 10"

TOTALS

4mm: 30"

6mm: 45"

8mm: 18"

The Universal Starter Kit from HoseTechniques cost $58 and includes more than enough hoses to do everything above and still have lots left over. For instance, I found no use for the 3.5mm hose. I still have about 12ft of the 4mm hose; about 2ft of the 6mm hose; and about 2ft of the 8mm hose left. All in all a pretty good deal.

[styx0r]

#1 connects to the charcoal canister, which is emissions related - it captures fuel vapor from the gas tank so that vapor can't pollute. The canister is under the driver's side, just behind the driver's front quarterpanel.

[larryo108]

I didn't think you were supposed to use silicon hose for the coolant overflow. Did the starter kit come with a bit of teh HoseTechniques coolant rated line?

[Gregg]

I didn't think you were supposed to use silicon hose for the coolant overflow. Did the starter kit come with a bit of teh HoseTechniques coolant rated line?

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According to the instructions, "Silicon Vacuum Hose (SVH) is NEVER to be used with gasoline, oil, and/or petroleum based products. Silicone Vacuum Hose is to be used only for air or vacuum, with these exceptions: It is suitable to use as replacement for the windshield washer hose (04.0mm) & radiator overflow hose (06.0mm/08.0mm)."

[Gregg]

Engine bay

In the pic below, you can see all 3 hoses coming off the BCS

Hoses off the manifold (top hose corresponds to #1, lower hose is #2)

[Gregg]

hows the strength of that hose from ht?  The problem with most of the silicone hose that you find (cheap stuff) is that its really soft and under boost/vacuum it will either bulge or pinch down.  I've heard good things about hosetechniques though as far as quality, can you confirm?

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I don't have anything to compare it to, but I found that you do have to make sure that the hoses are fairly straight. The two hoses under the TB cover "folded" when the angle was too sharp. This is why my boost gauge "T" setup is sticking up right now. I do not know if all silicone hose is like this, or just the stuff from HT. It does seem to be more susceptible to "folding" than does standard rubber vacuum hose.

By the way which color is that? the one u have installed, is it Floblue or Superblue?

I want to get the hoses similiar to the blue samco hoses..

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This is Floblue that I bought. I don't know how well it matches to the Samco hoses. Superblue is almost like a dark Navy color. I had trouble distinguishing between Superblue and Superpurple in the sample kit I ordered.

[drPheta]

With regard to the zip ties, wouldn't weather and heat cause them to crack/break fairly easily? I'm about to order some silicone hoses, and I'm not sure if i'll need to get clamps for them instead of using zip ties.

I'd also like to know more about hightempsilicone.com

[beachnut]

I reused all the existing metal clamps when I did this job. It helps if you have a couple sets of long needle nose pliars, one bent pair and one straight. Makes removing the oem clamps that much easier.

[WhiteT5]

OK, Here goes:

What you'll need:

1. Silicon Hose.

- 3.8 meters of 6 mm diameter hose

- 0.4 meter of 8 mm diamter hose

You can get this hose from High Temp Silicon or Hose Techniques

2. Scissors

3. Ruler

4. 10 worm screw hose clamps in the appropriate size (I got mine from O'reilly's).

Procedure: The main hoses you're going to focus on are the ones going into the back side of the boost control solenoid. Here is a pic:

For now, we're going to focus on the lines colored in yellow, green, and blue.

The Yellow line (Boost pressure regulator hose): You should cut a length of 35 cm of the 6 mm hose for this line and clamp it at each end. Tug at each connection a bit and make sure it is secure.

The Blue line: This one is quite simple and short. I used 18 cm of the 6 mm hose. It simply connects the middle connection on the BCS to a nipple (The one closest to the filter) on the air intake pipe. It then needs to be clamped and checked of course.

The Green line: I found this one to be the most difficult line to replace simply due to the fact that one end is kind of tough to reach without some needle nose pliers and hemostats as shown in the pic at the end of this section. You'll need to be under the car to connect one end of it, as it is on the underside of the turbo compressor housing. You may also be able to reach it by removing the CBV, but I'm not sure if there will be enough working room that way. It should be 52 cm length of the 6mm hose. Clamp it and check it.

OK, now for the Red line, which is your CBV (Compressor Bypass Valve) Hose: It connects as shown in the diagram and is routed up to the right front side of the intake manifold, directly down and to the left about 5 cm from the IAC motor. You'll need 78 cm of the 6 mm hose for this one. Clamp it and check that it is secure.

You can also do the hose going from the radiator overflow tank to right above where the thermostat is located. This requires 8 mm hose and it's probably best to re-use the stock clamps for this one. You'll need to be quick on the end nearest the thermostat b/c as soon as you disconnect the stock line, coolant will start to seap out.

OK, now this line is completely optional, as most people shouldn't have a problem with this particular one, although mine was torn when I got my car. All pictures associated with these hoses can be found below. In the diagram, it's the maroon colored hose. This line connects on the nipple on the intake manifold right above where your CBV line connects. It runs over to a valve sort of thing attached to the fan shroud on the driver's side of the car. That valve is pictured below. You'll need 32 cm of the 6mm hose to do this one. This one is a tight fit, so it may help to apply a drop of 3-in-1 oil just inside each end of the silicon hose. Clamp and check each end.

Some other lines in the engine bay are connected with rubber elbows that, as we all know, fall apart after a certain period of time. If I can find a source for silicon hoses with integrated silicon elbows, I will certainly update this write-up with a place to get them and how to install them.

Good luck .

[theunderlord]

Excellent! Time to get some hoses.  Too bad hose techniques has a minimum of 10 feet... brings the total to $50, eek.

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just get the starter kit, IIRC, you'll have left over hose.

[Serge]

just get the starter kit, IIRC, you'll have left over hose.

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Starter kit is still $58.

[Gregg]

Has anyone purchased the silicone vacuum hose from High Temp Silicon? Compared it against the stuff from Hose Techniques?

The reason I ask is that the HTS hoses are supposed to be more resistant to kinks and bends than standard silicone vacuum hose. With the HT hoses, I found I did need to be extra careful that there weren't any kinks in the hoses as I was installing them.

My brother is getting silicone vacuum hoses next for his car, and I am going to have him order from HTS so that I can compare theirs to the HT hoses (unless anyone chimes in and says the HTS hoses aren't any good).

P.S. HTS has a 5ft minimum per color & size

[beachnut]

My purge valve (pictured above) has a check valve inline before it, requiring two cuts of hose. The first cut that comes from the intake to the check valve can use the 6mm hose, but the second cut from the check valve to the purge valve really needs 8mm hose because the nipple on the outgoing side of the check valve is huge (yeah baby! )

[NateB]

Just completed the Silicone upgrade using the Hosetechniques Starter Kit.

So simple and straightforward that you can figure it out without the very usefull guide. Just replace each old hose one-at-a-time and it's easy.

You do need the car's front end up on solid jack stands to get the hoe fitting removed /replaced under the turbo.

Other than that, take your time and let the engine cool off.

My 850 turbo has new boost- this in combination with the install of my 5 piece SAMCO turbo hose kit. Darn Boost gauge want to brake thru to the right beyond the white. It's running stronger than when i first installed my Upsolute ecu and custom exhaust.

blah blah blah - I know, but it's my baby that I am talking about here.

[Meek]

I purchased the Universal Starter Kit from HoseTechniques.  This included more than enough hose, as well as plastic zip ties, HT Super Hose Cutter (Cigar cutter), and HT Super Hose Slitter (Letter Opener).

Ok, I do not know the exact/proper names for the hoses I replaced, but I will describe each one.  I only replaced the 5 vacuum hoses and the coolant overflow hose.  I will update with pictures tomorrow.

#1

From: Under TB Cover (1st hose down, traced in blue)

To: (not sure what to call it)

Size: 8mm

Length: probably only need about 6"-8" (my setup is different because of my boost gauge, so i had to use a little extra to get everything to fit)

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I am trying to do number 1 and I had another little black plastic flow through thing before the bigger black plastic canister. Well one side was obviously for air (vacuum), but the other had traces of coolant in it. This was the side where it met the cylinder head. In the blue traced pic above, he has a T fitting for the boost gauge, but I have this smaller plastic thing. Does coolant run from the head to this thing? If so, how can he get away with not having one? Coolant would go straight to his boost gauge etc. The little black canister does not look like it flows through but rather measures pressure. What is going on here? I am guessing the hose doesn't go to the cylinder as in the pic, but stops at the black thing. Crap, now I gotta go get some fittings for the black radiator hose I ripped out...