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Abs Unit Out What Now


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Finnaly came accross E5 torx and easily removed unit so I can check for crack/dry joints on module.

Removed the 4 spring clamps and eased sharp knife around to separate the sealant, but still the top does not lift off. Tried wedging and prising but starting to damage the edges.

the 4 metal poles appear to be well glued so trying to tap then down also does not help.

am I missing something? or should I pesevere?

:unsure:

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Don't go any further. Removing the lid will break the plastic and render it unuseable in wet weather. The PCB itself is covered in a layer of silicon insulator as well which has to be removed to get at the surface mount components...none of which are serviceable. Best to purchase a second hand one which works or get it fixed. If you return it to be fixed and the moulding is broken, it will be returned unrepaired as the repairer will not know what you have done to it. It's a safety precaution on their behalf.

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I believe it's been posted since the "great crash" so try searching for it.

Great crash. I'd ask which one, but let's hope that they're all gone and behind us now.

BTW, it is Vitor who repairs them, and he does an excellent job. I had mine repaired by him and highly reccomend his work.

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Done it already, yes and broken the top cover , but the circuitary is sealed under a rubbery compound, where do the dry joints / breaks happen.

At this point I have not removed the controller circuitary from the base unit, but I have had 10 years on the bench as a techie but do not have the tools or eyesight for this anymore.

Great to send it to someone, but I live in Africa, so I will be hounding scrap yards or buddies in the game for a replacement.

I would like to "DIY" but more than I can chew! <_<

PS Anyone looking for a "opened" original ABS management unit. Intermittant fault.

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You need a loom, about 8x thats what I use, it's made for looking at slides but works great on the circuit boards. The eyes are not what they use to be. The bad joints are where the connector is, the connector comes on to the board, there are two large ones then a bunch of smaller ones (Pins) The large ones are for the abs pump and the smaller ones are for the wheel sensors and such, I'd have to check the schematic for what they all do. The pins on the ends really seem to fail more so than the inboard ones. Get a loom so you can see and a small soldering Iron and repair the bad connections and give it a try, you are almost there, don't stop. You can use hot glue to put it back to gether to keep the water out.

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Thanks Rich

I have Iron, lens, and glue gun and I will I will try this easter w/end and let you know.

Have looked very close and asked my workshop techie to see but the joints really look ok, and al buzzed out ok on the meter, so will just relsolder the connector.

I was afraid that the board/ or intercooler's had the problem, those are difficult to get to.

Main thing is I need my speedo and tacho working again, so can always live with the ABS out until a replacement can be obtained if repair unsuccesfull

Larry

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I'm looking into doing this myself because I'm experiencing this ABS problem now.

So, what is the easiest way to open this box without breaking it?

I have access to all the tools to repair it but need to open the box first. I hate it when I break something and to do it on purpose would drive me crazy. :blink:

TIA..

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when i did mine, i used a dremmel tool. My bad joints were the large connectors on the left side (i know thats a poor description) they were pretty much by themselves. Id agree with everyone else get a good set of magnifying specs, and a smd soldering kit, but try those joints i mentioned first they werent smd chips.

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Thanks Guys heres' how it went.

Newbie,

use a sharp cutting knike to slide around the top case to loosen the rubber as much as possible, and pry off the top. Mine cracked and broke the edges but the glue gun later fixed it OK and sealed.

Kenk,

Spot on. Under a lens and with my contacts out I spotted the 2 LHS joints cracked, cleaned the rubber off, sucked out older solder, resoldered and glued top half back , but now I have lost the screws to put the Darn thing back somewhere between the dining room and garage with wife and family no idea(but she moved it) so will turn everything upside down later.

:wink:

I am happy it will work

Larry

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