lax01 Posted August 21, 2005 Report Share Posted August 21, 2005 Start:Throttle Body off (EGR exposed):Removal of Throttle Cable:Injector Removal (removal of fuel return hose)Intake Manifold Bracket (red circled 12mm bolt can be reached by moving dipstick, total PITA, and to make matters even worse, mine wasn't even connected to the manifold)STUPID-stripped Spark Plug Cover Torx bolt....hardest part of the jobIntake Manifold Removal: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lax01 Posted August 21, 2005 Author Report Share Posted August 21, 2005 hmmmm port and polished head and 3 angle valve job:Oil Trap and its connections:Non-Volvo Injector...anybody know what these are? Oil Trap Removed (lower 10mm bolt is a oh yeah! to get to)Knock Sensors and valves:Cleaned up for the night Parts to be replaced:Uh-oh (repost) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lax01 Posted August 21, 2005 Author Report Share Posted August 21, 2005 Parts in the Morning:Parts replaced:Re-assembled:Zero extra bolts left....all bolts replaced in their correct places...it took me awhile to figure everything out (especially the last bolt in the manifold (by the powersteering...that was a oh yeah! *hint* use to extensions on a 3/8 Ratchet) Very satisified with my work...and I just saved myself $200 in labor...my hands are chewed up, but hey, it was funif anyone has any questions, please don't hesistate to PM me...but since most of you have already done this (which I'm assuming from the response from my first thread), I really should get too many questions....:::I forgot about parts...I spent about $60 and replaced all the hoses except for the main hose which connects to the PCV valve on the intake hose before the turbo...and the oil trap...I cleaned both with carb cleaner and replaced the rubber connectors on it...i then blew them out with compressed air...I did the same with the oil trap...seemed to work fine...my vacumn is now at 19-20psi... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geevs Posted August 22, 2005 Report Share Posted August 22, 2005 Wow Josh, great job with the work and pics! This should be definitely be pinned or even placed in Bay13 Maintenance section. I knew you weren't a b-head. j/k. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest DougK Posted August 22, 2005 Report Share Posted August 22, 2005 Head looks mostly stock to me. You can't see a 3 angle valve job (which is OEM btw anyways) with the valves closed.Otherwise not bad, its easier (imo) to pull the return line from the metal fuel line, not at the FPR. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johann Posted August 22, 2005 Report Share Posted August 22, 2005 Did you clean the return channel to the pan inside the engine. with a metal wire?Lots of these engine's show black sludge clogging the return channel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeph430 Posted August 22, 2005 Report Share Posted August 22, 2005 Thanks for the pics. I really would like to do this, but have been scared to attempt. I will probably do it while the R is in stoarge this winter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lax01 Posted August 22, 2005 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2005 Head looks mostly stock to me. You can't see a 3 angle valve job (which is OEM by the way anyways) with the valves closed.Otherwise not bad, its easier (imo) to pull the return line from the metal fuel line, not at the FPR.←not when their isn't a clamp on the other end I pulled I replaced the clamp though Did you clean the return channel to the pan inside the engine. with a metal wire?Lots of these engine's show black sludge clogging the return channelI stuck my finger in them and they didn't feel clogged....however, I didn't want to push anything inside the pan....but I didn't feel anything clogged also...Thanks for the pics. I really would like to do this, but have been scared to attempt. I will probably do it while the R is in stoarge this winter.yeah make sure you have some time to do it....you don't want to rush the job....you gotta figure out the intracies of how do it...and then its cake (just like everything else on the car) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MadeInJapan Posted November 27, 2005 Report Share Posted November 27, 2005 Excellent write-up with pictures. Hope you don't mind that I made a WORD file out of your entire procedure and will be taking a print of out it to my mechanic as he is going to do this for my car this week. He probably doesn't need this, but just in case. If it speeds him up then I won't have to pay as much as he charges "actual" time to work on my car...which is actually very reasonable. Thanks again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mesoam Posted November 27, 2005 Report Share Posted November 27, 2005 nice job...where's the list of part numbers please.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prasamin Posted November 27, 2005 Report Share Posted November 27, 2005 great pictures man, very detailed. Good job knuckle head. You actually got something done right!!! Thanks for the pics. ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lax01 Posted November 27, 2005 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2005 haha your welcome...don't have the parts list anymore Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest AlvinL Posted December 1, 2005 Report Share Posted December 1, 2005 This is good and is added to the pinned section for 'FWD/AWD 1998 and Prior' under 'Volvospeed Useful Threads For Repairs'.One thing to add. Obviously, there are variations for different years and engines. If you've never done this before, budget for yourself 5-6 hours, more or less depending on your capability. If you don't wish to dismantle the fuel rail from the intake manifold, disconnect the hard and flexible rubber fuel lines where they connect to the fuel rail. There is a cover on the fuel rail that unsnaps by pulling upwards so you can access the top manifold bolts. Depending on which way you go, buy a new rubber line and clamps if the old rubber line breaks or buy new seals and o-rings for your injectors. My experience for this has been on a 93-850 GLT and my 95-850 T-5R. I had no choice on the 93 model but to remove the fuel rail because I couldn't get to the manifold bolts. Got it down to little over 3 hours the second time. If you're thinking of doing it, go for it. Get all the necessary parts before you start. Well worth the experience with ordinary tools.Non turbo is similar except the large PCV line and smaller vacuum line goes a different route and towards the throttle body. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gdizzle Posted December 1, 2005 Report Share Posted December 1, 2005 LOL! PRICELESS! Way to go on finishing it though! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yangotang Posted December 1, 2005 Report Share Posted December 1, 2005 Just read that again.....We can't ever get enough of josh.Where has he been lately? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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