beachnut Posted November 8, 2005 Report Share Posted November 8, 2005 As some of you know I am replacing the evaporator on my 850, but my heater core was also bad so I'm replacing it as well. Now I've seen the pics and how-to's of the heater core replacement, but when it came time to order a new core and o-rings I ran into a little glitch. For those of you who have never done this repair hopefully this info will help. When you remove the heater core you will notice there are two metal lines leading up to a black plastic connector in the firewall. On the engine side of the firewall is where the heater hoses connect. It is really not necessary to remove these metal pipes from the inside black plastic connector, but I did. This is what everything looks like, totally removed:Here are the plastic retaining clips on the hoses themselves, notice each clip has two "ears":Here is what FCP sells as an o-ring kits in their "heater hose" package:Here are the plastic retaining clips on the interior metal hoses that lead from the firewall to the core, notice the clips only have one "ear" and notice all the o-rings:One of my o-rings was broken:But where are the o-rings for the heater hoses themselves that FCP includes in their kit? Oh, there they ... still stuck inside the firewall side of the black plastic hose holder:Except they're being held down by something:It's a black plastic ring that you have to pry out:Now you get all the old o-rings out for the heater hoses:So what's the point? The point is that the o-ring kit that FCP is incomplete if you want to replace the plastic clips and o-rings on the metal pipes that lead from the firewall to the heater core. As I stated previously, you don't have to remove these clips and rings, but I wanted to replace them for peace of mind. I mean why do one side and not the other? I will be passing this info along to Scott at FCP tomorrow to see if I can get the interior kit.FYI Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the underlørd Posted November 8, 2005 Report Share Posted November 8, 2005 great info scotty. thanks for the writeup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest AlvinL Posted November 8, 2005 Report Share Posted November 8, 2005 Good one. It's been added to the pinned topic of Volvospeed Useful Threads For Repairs, User supplied knowledge/experience.Thank you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beachnut Posted December 7, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2005 Just an update to this thread:I was not able to source the proper kit for the clips and o-rings for the the interior heater tubes. I find it ironic that Volvo makes a kit that works for the outside heater hoses, but nothing for the inside. I checked with FCP Groton, who in turn checked with their dealer source. I also checked with someone I know at another Volvo dealer ... nothing! The best you can do is this: buy 2 sets of the o-ring kit from FCP. That will give you enough o-rings and plastic washers to do the job. In fact, you'll have two o-rings left over. You will not be able to replace the inside insertion clips and you will not be able to use the ones that come with the kit since, as the pics above show, these clips are different than the heater hose clips. However, they are easier to remove and won't get all mangled up, so you should be able to re-use them without any trouble. Technically though, you shouldn't even have to replace the 4 o-rings and 2 plastic washers where the heater core tubes enter the hose coupler at the firewall unless you detect signs of coolant leaking (i.e. corrosion or moisture), but as I said before, it's a peace of mind thing. If you decide not to replace them you will only need the two o-rings at the actual heater core itself. One last note ... if you also plan on replacing the black plastic hose coupler that mounts in the firewall then you will need to remove your accelerator pedal. This is very easy, basically you push the hinge pin out a little then slide the pedal off and over to the left. Even though my hose coupler was fine, it's a know problem for them to crack and allow coolant to leak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bro_hof Posted April 10, 2006 Report Share Posted April 10, 2006 I'm about to tackle this myself...is it easy to remove the heater hoses on the firewall side? Any special suggestions or tools I should consider before trying to unhook these hoses? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beachnut Posted April 10, 2006 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2006 If you are talking about the engine side of the firewall yes ... - remove the clamps from the other ends of the two hoses first where they hook into the block, etc. and pull them off so that they are loose on that side.- with the two hoses free on the other ends, press the "ears" together on the hose at the firewall and rotate the clip to a point where you can just pop the hose out, if you don't rotate the hose it will be hard to disengage from the firewall. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bro_hof Posted April 10, 2006 Report Share Posted April 10, 2006 If you are talking about the engine side of the firewall yes ... - remove the clamps from the other ends of the two hoses first where they hook into the block, etc. and pull them off so that they are loose on that side.- with the two hoses free on the other ends, press the "ears" together on the hose at the firewall and rotate the clip to a point where you can just pop the hose out, if you don't rotate the hose it will be hard to disengage from the firewall.Great, thank you...you were right, I was aking about the engine side. If I remove those tubes on the block are there any gaskets/seals that have to be replaced on those? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beachnut Posted April 11, 2006 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2006 No, nothing on the block side of the hoses except the clamps. In my last pic above however, you will need two orings and the plastic washer for each hose at the firewall connection. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r850glt Posted April 11, 2006 Report Share Posted April 11, 2006 Nice Write up . Do you have a part # for plastic housing by firewall ?Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
troyhyde Posted April 11, 2006 Report Share Posted April 11, 2006 On a side note, I tried to use the FCP kit (bought and installed it twice actually) and I could never get the seal to work properly. I ended up getting a set of "old style" washers/clips/o-rings from a junkyard car and going back to the original configuration. Hopefully your luck will be better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beachnut Posted July 14, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2006 Just a little update to this discussion:After finally getting "the Volvo parts program" I have found that what Volvo lists for the interior heater hose o-ring kit is exactly what FCP sells ... part number 3545662. The trouble is (as I pointed out earlier) you don't get the interior plastic insertion tabs (the ones with one "ear"), and you will be one pair shy of the plastic washers. Plus, if you want to replace the two o-rings going into the heater core (and you should) then you'll be missing those as well. As I said before I guess the best thing to do is order two kits. It's possible that the plastic insertion tabs come with the "snap-on coupling" ... part number 3522035. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CarVolvo Posted November 1, 2006 Report Share Posted November 1, 2006 Just a little update to this discussion:After finally getting "the Volvo parts program" I have found that what Volvo lists for the interior heater hose o-ring kit is exactly what FCP sells ... part number 3545662. The trouble is (as I pointed out earlier) you don't get the interior plastic insertion tabs (the ones with one "ear"), and you will be one pair shy of the plastic washers. Plus, if you want to replace the two o-rings going into the heater core (and you should) then you'll be missing those as well. As I said before I guess the best thing to do is order two kits. It's possible that the plastic insertion tabs come with the "snap-on coupling" ... part number 3522035. As i did a recent engine swap i found that my heating hose couplings were cracked about 1 inch in the coupling. This right up was great but i was wondering. Whats stopping someone trying to use normal rubber hoses to connect through the firewall to replace these couplings?This way you only need a normal clamp and hose system like most cars and avoid this 40 dollar part along with the heater hoses in the engine bay.. or am i missing something? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RAzOR Posted January 2, 2007 Report Share Posted January 2, 2007 I have done this twice and going to do it a third time now. I ALWAYS break that firewall block. So, Beachnut, you are saying that to remove the heater hoses, I should disconnect them from the engine end, then rotate them a bit and then squeeze the outermost tabs to remove the hose from the firewall block? Finger pressure usuall good enough?Im really don't want to replace the block again, and am sure Volvo made this possible but so far, no luck for me. Maybe third time's a charm?Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beachnut Posted January 2, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2007 Yup, that's what has worked for me. Notice in the pics how there are flat spots to the holes. I found that if you pinch the ears together on the hoses and rotate the hose around like 90 degrees that they will pull out of the block easier, and usually that means you need to disconnect the other ends of the hoses from the motor first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RAzOR Posted January 2, 2007 Report Share Posted January 2, 2007 Dude, if this works, I'm gonna hunt you down and kiss you Borat style. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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