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Testing Heater Fan And Resistor.


Matts 850 GLT

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Hi

I just picked up a second hand heater fan motor and resistor of a car with 56,000 miles so should be ok. The fan works hooked up to my car battery so I bought it (15 buck) - is there any way of testing both motor and resistor?

I am elctrically illieterate.

Thanks

Matt

PS In UK Volvo want 320 GBP (600 buck) for a new motor!!!

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Yeah, I know!

It is getting to the point that I can fly to US buy a load parts and fly back!! Cheaper and more fun.

One oil filter, for my 83 240GL, from the darling dealer is 11 pounds (20 dollars)! WHY??

SO, what can I do to ensure a longer life from my heater motor, where is the grease/lube point?

Thanks

Matt

Picture of my lovely heater motor.

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This method should work if you wish to service the motor or most of the steps can be used for a new motor replacement.

Passenger Dash Access for Blower and Resistor

1. Once you have the blower out, check out the main power connector and remove the connector clip.

2. Remove the small screw with bushing and set aside.

3. Slight tap and slide the housing off.

4. Bend the tabs that hold the springs and commutator brushes in. Don't let the springs fly off. Pull the brushes away from the commutator.

5. Note how much the motor shaft protrudes out the end of the motor and out the squirrel cage.

6. Separate the squirrel cage from the motor using a punch. You may notice the armature drift along the motor shaft. That's OK, you can tap it back later.

7. With the squirrel cage off, tap the motor shaft back to position. Put the inner bushing seals back to position with a small screwdriver or similar if they've drifted off.

8. Inspect the motor and if beyond repair, chuck it and go to step 12 with a new motor.

9. With a small file, spin the motor (i.e. with a drill), and carefully file down the commutator to remove the ridge left behind by the brushes.

10. Lubricated both ends of the motor with couple of drops of electric motor oil between the dust covers and bushings. Don't over-oil.

11. Re-assemble the brushes and springs.

12. Tap the squirrel cage back on to the (or refurbished) motor with the back end of the motor shaft on a hard surface.

13. Re-assemble the motor (with cage), to the housing, reuse the screw and rubber bushing and the connector clip.

If done right, the refurbished motor should be as good as new. If you wish to save the motor, get to refurbishing it soon than to wait for it to seize. By then it might be too late and can your really live with all that squeeling? Another thing that can happen is the resistor pack burning up from the high current draw due to a seizing motor.

Good luck!

Re-oiling hasn't worked for everybody. Some have found that it only last a few months but I think that if done right, it's as good as new. Until the brushes and commutator wear out to nothing.

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Thanks Alvin

I got the replacement motor re-greased as per your 1st class instructions and popped it into the car. Took awhile to get the old one out as there is a lot of wires down there.

Anyway the replacement gushes out loads of air and is much quieter! My headlights don't dim when I switch it on anymore, I guess the old motor was drawing too much current.

The whole job took just over 2 hrs.

Thanks

Matt

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  • 4 months later...
  • 6 months later...
Guest Guest_kitebuz_*

I have pulled my blower motor. The sealed bearing at the squirrel cage end is siezed - so badly that the motor shaft has ovalized the bore of the bearing.

Any ideas on where I could get just the bearing?? I'm pretty sure the motor will work if I can get a new bearing in there, but it is an oddly shaped bearing housing with rounded edges.

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  • 4 weeks later...

I have pulled my blower motor. The sealed bearing at the squirrel cage end is siezed - so badly that the motor shaft has ovalized the bore of the bearing.

Any ideas on where I could get just the bearing?? I'm pretty sure the motor will work if I can get a new bearing in there, but it is an oddly shaped bearing housing with rounded edges.

If the bearing is that bad I'm going to guess that the motor shaft is in rough shape as well. I'm not sure where you are but if you are in the US there is a joint in Kansas City called IBT, I think they are national - check your yellow pages under bearings, that can cross reference about any bearing you hand them. The next trick will be to pull the bearing, I've done the same thing on a lot of other motors with good success.

Being cheap, I'd try to pull the bearing and see if it has a number and if it looks like it can be re-installed. What the heck, the worst that can happen is that you will need to replace the motor which you might need to do anyway.

...Lee

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Guest Guest_kitebuz_*

I actually did pull the bearing - took it to a few auto parts & electric motor places locally, but no luck. Ended up getting a replacement motor in ebay - which I thought was reconditioned, but it was used - so I cleaned that one up - at least no siezed bearing, and re-installed. Still not working, so next is the resistor.

There were no markings on the bearing at all, and it was a strange shape - just cut my losses b/c I am running out of time & decent weather to get everything back together.

Anyone know where I can get a good deal on a replacement resistor for a '94 855t??

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  • 3 months later...

Any idea on how to remove the fan to install a new motor?

The motor has some shaft play and sounds like a jet.

Thanks,

I figured I would post this since no one has replied to this particular post and I am now going through the exact same fiasco. This is assuming you have already removed the motor/fan assembly and housing from the car.

1.) Remove the power clip, screw and bushing from the back of the plastic housing.

2.) Remove motor/fan assembly from the plastic housing.

3.) Once removed, support the fan with 2 stacks of 4x4's on either side of the motor.

4.) Lightly tap the shaft in the center of the fan with a small drift and a hammer. The motor will slowly work its way through the center of the fan and fall on the workbench (or ground).

To re-install the fan on the new motor you can use a small socket and a hammer to tap the fan on to the new motor shaft. Set the new motor on a block of wood and support it before tapping so you do not damage the new motor or the old fan. Be sure to note the position of the fan on the new shaft (compared to the old one) so there are no interference issues when installing the assembly in the car.

Install the new motor/fan assembly back into the plastic housing and secure with screw and bushing. Install the power clip.

I was in a hurry and did not want to shop around for a new motor so I ordered a new motor from FCP for $99.00. Sounds way high to me. This looks like a $50 part. Oh well.....

Works like a champ now!

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