Slater Posted January 9, 2006 Report Share Posted January 9, 2006 OK, ignoring the white twisty-tie this guy is installing, what exactly breaks on the glovebox? The metal U-shaped catch that screws to the dash itself? Or one of the components shown here?Everyone is always saying how the latches break, so I checked mine out today and it looks fine. In fact, everything in there looks beefy and I can't for the life of me see what exactly breaks. Is it a metal component, or a plastic component? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest AlvinL Posted January 9, 2006 Report Share Posted January 9, 2006 I don't know what name Volvo has given them but I'm calling, from your finger to the right, the rod, latch actuator and latch. The latch actuator is a cast aluminum part and a piece of it (pin) that opens and closes the latch breaks off rendering the latch assembly useless. If you remove the three screws to take out the latch assembly, you can dismantle the latch actuator from the latch by removing the circlip that holds it in. See the spring? Remember how that goes back together. It's job is to push the door open when you lift upthe door handle to open the door. When you've taken the latch actuator out from the latch assembly, you'll be able to see where the pin is broken off. I've repaired it by drilling out where that cast pin used to be a replacing it with a small screw in it's place. The head of the screw is on the other side so as not to intefer with the operation of the latch and the threaded portion of the screw is now the pin. In my opinion a better fix that replacing the latch actuator with another that's likely to break due to fatigue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slater Posted January 10, 2006 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2006 I don't know what name Volvo has given them but I'm calling, from your finger to the right, the rod, latch actuator and latch. The latch actuator is a cast aluminum part and a piece of it (pin) that opens and closes the latch breaks off rendering the latch assembly useless. If you remove the three screws to take out the latch assembly, you can dismantle the latch actuator from the latch by removing the circlip that holds it in. See the spring? Remember how that goes back together. It's job is to push the door open when you lift upthe door handle to open the door. When you've taken the latch actuator out from the latch assembly, you'll be able to see where the pin is broken off. I've repaired it by drilling out where that cast pin used to be a replacing it with a small screw in it's place. The head of the screw is on the other side so as not to intefer with the operation of the latch and the threaded portion of the screw is now the pin. In my opinion a better fix that replacing the latch actuator with another that's likely to break due to fatigue.OK, I will dissasemble it and try and figure out where you are talking about.Someone suggested to me that I make a replacement part that will not break. I just need to know what part it is we're talking about. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eldertec Posted January 10, 2006 Report Share Posted January 10, 2006 Mine broke too.Had to hacksaw it open.Does the new hardware from the dealer include what I hacked through? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MadeInJapan Posted January 10, 2006 Report Share Posted January 10, 2006 Mine broke too.Had to hacksaw it open.Does the new hardware from the dealer include what I hacked through?YES! Lucky! B) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zomaster Posted January 10, 2006 Report Share Posted January 10, 2006 on mine, If I recall Correctly, the left end of the assembly became detatched. ill see if i have a pic of that, it was on my last car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robert213 Posted January 10, 2006 Report Share Posted January 10, 2006 OK, ignoring the white twisty-tie this guy is installing... For those that don't already know...1. Feed a twisty-tie wire or fishing line thru the hole in the latch (as shown in pic)2. Tie the ends of the wire together to make a loop3. Reassemble door, extend the end of the loop wire over the outside edge of door4. Cover the loop wire with electricians (or vinyl) tapeIf your latch mechanism should ever break, pulling on the loop wire will release the latch and allow you to open the door. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slater Posted January 11, 2006 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2006 For those that don't already know...1. Feed a twisty-tie wire or fishing line thru the hole in the latch (as shown in pic)2. Tie the ends of the wire together to make a loop3. Reassemble door, extend the end of the loop wire over the outside edge of door4. Cover the loop wire with electricians (or vinyl) tapeIf your latch mechanism should ever break, pulling on the loop wire will release the latch and allow you to open the door.Or fix the problem permanently using whatever I can cook up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slater Posted January 17, 2006 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2006 OK, I updated this with a few pics of my stock unbroken glovebox.Which circled pin is the one that always breaks? #1, #2, or #3? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest AlvinL Posted January 17, 2006 Report Share Posted January 17, 2006 Wrong end. That's the handle end. Try the latch/lock end... 'From your finger to the right...' Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slater Posted January 17, 2006 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2006 Wrong end. That's the handle end. Try the latch/lock end... 'From your finger to the right...'Ah, do you mean the posts crack off the right end of the aluminum part that is being pointed to (i.e. the posts where #4 is circled)? Or do you mean some part of the "brown" colored latches to the right of the circled #4? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest AlvinL Posted January 17, 2006 Report Share Posted January 17, 2006 Very close...The grey part circled in #4 has two posts that are fine and they, in turn, turns the brown part circled in #4. However, the post on the brown part that is circled #4... that pushes the locking mechanism... that you have a twisty tie on... that post breaks. If you know what I mean. :huh: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slater Posted January 17, 2006 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2006 Very close...The grey part circled in #4 has two posts that are fine and they, in turn, turns the brown part circled in #4. However, the post on the brown part that is circled #4... that pushes the locking mechanism... that you have a twisty tie on... that post breaks. If you know what I mean. OK, so I took off that latch and think I see what you're talking about.It looks like what breaks is circled in yellow (the thinner "post" section with the c-clip on the end cracks off from the large "cup" at the end due to the pressure of the latch opening and closing hundreds of times). Or do you mean the tiny little part I circled in pink? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slater Posted January 17, 2006 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2006 Wait, I take that back. The post that actually turns the latch itself is on attached to the piece circled in green we're talking about, but the post is on the "inside", sticking through the frame to push the tiny latch itself. You can't see it unless you look at the back side.Is this the culprit (i.e. the blue arrow)?Here's a better picture of the part itself. Does the short or long post break? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest AlvinL Posted January 17, 2006 Report Share Posted January 17, 2006 Ding! Ding! Ding! The short one breaks but your's looks fine. So what's the problem? :blink: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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