Volvo S40 (2000) Readiness Test Failure

[Amy]

Hello. I have a problem with my 2000 Volvo S40 in that it is currently failing Pennsylvania Emissions Test.

The OBD II emissions inspections and readiness test read "Failed on componets".

I had the exact same problem last year and the dealer charged me $150 to reset the computer by "driving the car around". I believe there is a specific drive cycle to take the car through before the computer is reset.

The dealership said it is failing because in Feb 2006 I had a "Check Engine" light and they replaced the thermostat and sensor. They wants to charge me another $150 for them to reset the computer and test emissions on my car. (I have already paid for emissions testing at a gas station). The dealership further stated that if I were to verify this anyplace else, the computer might fail on the drive from the dealership to the gas station where I'm getting my emissions inspection. This sounds like a story to me! (In PA, if you fail at one gas station, you can have it retested for free at that station). I have called other dealerships and they have told me that changing the thermostat is not the source of the issue.

My inspection is up at the end of August. Can someone advise me? For now, I'm assuming that this is just a computer reset issue and not something larger. What is the Drive Cycle to reset the readiness flag for a 2000 Volvo S40? If I can reset the computer by "driving my car around" at set speeds, then I'll take it back to the gas station and save the $150.

Thanks,

Amy

[Che'_Moderator]

Never heard of this. I would try to find out exactly what code is stored. If you go to an auto store they should be able to tell you that for free. Off the topp of my head I know autozone and advance autoo will. Sorry that was not more help

[Amy]

I don't think this would work. I called Auto Zone and they told me that they can only tell the code if the "Check Engine" light is on. It isn't on, but was earlier this year (in Feb). Basically, the computer is failing the readiness test for emissions due to Components. That's all the readout on the Emissions computer said.

[garbergtsi]

even if there is no codes stored....you still wont pass emissions unless all your monitors pass...

you need to drive it in a certain procedure, and even with that you might need to do it many times.

its a pain, but you have no other choice.

[MrWinkey]

Hi Amy ...yes you do get a free re test....however are you sure it failed because "components" was not ready...your car is a 2000 so you must have 7 monitors up and running in order too pass...did you just recently disconnect the battery? or did you have a "check engine" light on and someone cleared codes?.....There is a specific drive sequence, however on a 2000 it should have gone through that cycle with normal driving.

The "components monitor" failure is quite odd if that is the specific failure... you can clear the codes and after clearing them "components monitor" should come right up after the ignition is cycled?.....

What you can do is find a long stretch of road say 10 miles with no redlights stop signs etc. start the car DEAD COLD meaning after it sat overnight. Drive the car for 6 minutes(not miles) accelerating easy keeping your rpms between 1500 and 2200 rpm or approx 55 mph after you drove for 6 to 7 minutes pull over put it in neutral(not park) and let it idle for a little over 1 minute.(this will allow the ecm to run it's diagonstics) . Then drop it into gear and run it back that same stretch of road for 6 minutes and repeate the idle process. You cannot see the monitors without the proper scan tool so just to be safe I would say do it again one more time out and back. Bringing the car to idle a total of 4 times. If the car is not ready...and "components monitor" is still the issue I would say you may have a software problem.

However if you did have someone clear the light and are trying too find a sneaky way through the OBDII test forget it . If there is an underlying issue with one of the sensors the ECM running the diagonstics on the drive cycle will pick that up and will throw a "check engine" light and that problem must be repaired. The $150 thing is kinda odd as that in certain areas of PA (don't know about Philly and Pittsburg) $150 spent and you can get a waiver? Did they waiver the car last year?

Good Luck

P.S. If your wondering if I'm a technician .....NO I'm not "but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night" B)

[Amy]

even if there is no codes stored....you still wont pass emissions unless all your monitors pass...

you need to drive it in a certain procedure, and even with that you might need to do it many times.

its a pain, but you have no other choice.

"you need to drive it in a certain procedure"

It is this procedure that I am looking for.

[Amy]

Hi Amy

There is a specific drive sequence, however on a 2000 it should have gone through that cycle with normal driving.

The "components monitor" failure is quite odd if that is the specific failure... you can clear the codes and after clearing them "components monitor" should come right up after the ignition is cycled?.....

What you can do is find a long stretch of road say 10 miles with no redlights stop signs etc. start the car DEAD COLD meaning after it sat overnight. Drive the car for 6 minutes(not miles) accelerating easy keeping your rpms between 1500 and 2200 rpm or approx 55 mph after you drove for 6 to 7 minutes pull over put it in neutral(not park) and let it idle for a little over 1 minute.(this will allow the ecm to run it's diagonstics) . Then drop it into gear and run it back that same stretch of road for 6 minutes and repeate the idle process. You cannot see the monitors without the proper scan tool so just to be safe I would say do it again one more time out and back. Bringing the car to idle a total of 4 times. If the car is not ready...and "components monitor" is still the issue I would say you may have a software problem.

Thanks. I think we're getting somewhere now.

Yes, it was failing on components -- I saw the computer at the gas station. In Feb 2006, the check engine light went on, and the dealership replaced the thermostat and sensor. They are saying that this is why the the car needs to have the readiness reset. Yes, they want to charge me $150 to do this drive cycle -- which is the reason I am posting on this board! Of course, they will not tell me what the drive cycle is, but they said that this is very specific and trickly for 2000 S40's. I am going under the assumption that if I can take it through the drive cycle myself, and that normal driving did not reset this automatically. If this doesn't work, then I'll have to "suffer the consequences".

We're on to something now that you have offered a drive sequence. I have some questions:

* "start the car DEAD COLD" - I live 6 miles from the highway. Should I park my car closer to the highway overnight so I can start dead cold? (I guess I can ride my bike back and forth to do this).

* "just to be safe I would say do it again one more" - Does the car need to start from a DEAD COLD again?

* When going through this drive procedure, can I pull off the highway exit ramp, turn around, and then drive more? Or do I need to find 18 miles of straight highway? When in this recipe is it save to turn around? After the idle cycle and before the next drive cycle?

* I have also found the following similar procedure on another message board regarding a Volvo 850. Their procedure is similar to yours, except that they drive the car 6 min, 5 min, 4 min. Is this significant?

If you are having trouble getting your 850 through state emissions test and the source of

your frustration is ‘readiness’ codes that aren’t set, the following procedure from Volvo

will help set the readiness codes.

Start with the vehicle cool, below 122 degrees F.

Turn off the air conditioning.

Select a location where the driving can be done without violating traffic laws and you can

stop safely at the side of the road.

1. Start the engine and accelerate to approximately 1500-2000 rpm.

2. Drive for 6 minutes at 1500-2000 rpm.

3. Stop the vehicle and remain at idle in drive for 70 seconds.

4. Accelerate to at least 45mph and drive for 5 minutes at 1800-2200 rpm.

5. Stop the vehicle and remain at idle in drive for 60 seconds.

6. Accelerate to at least 45 mph and drive for 4 minutes at 1800-2200 rpm.

7. Stop the vehicle and remain at idle in drive for 60 seconds.

8. Park the vehicle and turn off the engine.

This procedure must be performed TWICE from a cold start to set the readiness codes.

[Amy]

Okay, someone from another message board gave me the following procedure. This is very different from the procedure described above. Does anybody know which one is for a 2000 S40???

Begin Drive Cycle

The vehicle should be driven approximately 7.5 miles within a period of approx. 23 minutes (1372 seconds) from a cold start. However, due to manufacture variations, it is necessary to perform only as much of the Drive Cycle as is necessary to reset the required monitors to a "Ready" status. Operate the throttle smoothly to obtain best results. Do not shut the engine off during the drive cycle.

CAUTION: Obey all traffic laws and drive in a safe manner!

NOTE: Extreme driving conditioning such as very high/low temperatures,

rough roads and high altitudes may prevent some monitors from attaining a "Ready" status.

Step 1 (Engine Cold) Start engine, idle 20 seconds.

Accelerate gradually and drive at 20-25 mph for 1 minute, varying speed.

Step 2 Accelerate gradually to 32 mph within 35 seconds.

Decelerate to 0 mph in 10 seconds.

Idle for 40 seconds.

Step 3 Accelerate at part throttle to 25 mph in 10 seconds.

Cruise at 17-25 mph for 15 seconds.

Accelerate gradually to 57 mph in 45 seconds.

Cruise at 50-56 mph for 1 minute.

Decelerate gradually to 0 mph in 40 seconds.

Idle for 15 seconds.

Step 4 Accelerate at part throttle to 36 mph and maintain for 10 seconds.

Decelerate to 0 mph in 15 seconds.

Idle for 5 seconds.

Step 5 Accelerate to 30 mph and back to 0 mph within 30 seconds.

Idle for 20 seconds.

Step 6 Accelerate to 36 mph in 20 seconds.

Drive at 35 mph for 20 seconds.

Decelerate to 0 mph in 15 seconds.

Idle 5 seconds.

Step 7 Accelerate gradually to 26 mph and decelerate to 0 within 40 seconds.

Idle 15 seconds.

Step 8 Accelerate to 27 mph in 40 seconds.

Decelerate to 0 mph in 10 seconds.

Idle 25 seconds.

Step 9 Accelerate to 26 mph in 15 seconds, maintain speed for 10 seconds, decelerate to 0 mph in 10 seconds.

Idle 15 seconds.

Step 10 Accelerate to 23 mph in 20 seconds, decelerate to 0.5 mph in 10 seconds (no complete stop).

Accelerate to 28 mph and back to 0 mph (momentary stop 1 second) within 35 seconds.

Step 11 Accelerate gradually to 34 mph in 45 seconds.

Vary speed between 34 and 19 mph for 2 minutes.

Decelerate from 25 to 0 mph in 25 seconds.

Idle for 5 seconds.

Step 12 Accelerate to 29 mph in 15 seconds, decelerate gradually to 0 mph in 45 seconds.

Idle for 30 seconds.

Step 13 Accelerate gradually to 28 mph and back to 0 mph (momentary stop 1 second) within 50 seconds.

Accelerate gradually to 27 mph and back to 0 mph within 55 seconds.

Idle for 15 seconds.

Step 14 Accelerate to 24 mph and back to 0 mph within 18 seconds.

Idle for 10 seconds.

Accelerate gradually to 22 mph and back to 0 mph within 50 seconds.

Idle for 8 seconds.

Step 15 Accelerate gradually to 30 mph within 50 seconds.

Decelerate to 0 mph in 10 seconds.

Idle for 25 seconds.

Step 16 Accelerate to 23 mph and back to 0 mph within 30 seconds.

Idle for 10 seconds.

Step 17 Repeat steps 1 - 16 once again. Recheck the status of the "Readiness Monitors".

NOTE: Remember, clearing DTC's or interrupting power to the ECM after the readiness monitors have been

reset to "Ready" will require that the Drive Cycle be repeated.

Completing the Drive Cycle successfully one (1) time should reset most drive

cycle monitors to a "Ready" status. However, there are "two trip" monitors,

which require that the drive cycle be successfully completed two (2) times,

to achieve a "Ready" status. Furthermore, systems which use averaging, may

require the drive cycle to be completed more than 2 times. It is necessary

to perform only as much of the Drive Cycle as is necessary to reset the required

monitors to a "Ready" status.

End Drive Cycle

[garbergtsi]

Straight from Volvo....

if you cant tell, swedes cant spell.

Carrying out a TRIPP

If all diagnostic functions are to be carried out as quickly as possible, the vehicle should be run following the driving procedure below.

Obs! When checking certain functions/components, the driving procedure does not need to be carried out in its entirety. The section "Diagnostic functions of the driving procedure" below describes the diagnostic functions.

General guidelines.

The test should be performed on a road with light traffic where it is possible to drive slowly and pull over to the shoulder.

Varning! The test drive must always be executed in a safe and controlled manner. Follow applicable traffic and speed regulations.

Engine temperature level is of decisive importance to the first elements of the driving procedure.

Tips:

Check engine temperature in VIDA Vehicle communication: Parameter readout during execution.

Make sure there are no diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) stored in the engine control module (ECM) before starting the test drive. Stored diagnostic trouble codes can block diagnostic functions.

The total test drive time should be at least 15 minutes with an engine temperature of at least 90 °C in order for all diagnostic functions to be carried out.

Driving procedure:

Start and warm up the engine until the temperature is at least 65 °C. Then run at approx. 2000 rpm for at least 5 minutes (only applies to the diagnostic function for the tank system).

Turn off the engine and allow it to cool to a temperature between +4°C and +40°C.

Ignition on for at least 2 seconds (only applies to US market MY-00).

Start the engine when the temperature is between +4°C and +40°C, shift the selector lever to the "D" position, accelerate with light throttle application to 60-80 km/h (max 40-50 mph), then run at low load for 5 minutes at max 60-80 km/h (max 40-50 mph).

Stop the car and allow the engine to idle for 30 seconds.

Accelerate with light throttle application and then run with steady throttle for 5 minutes at max 60-80 km/h (max 40-50 mph).

Stop the car again and allow the engine to idle for 30 seconds.

Accelerate with at least 50% throttle application and then run with steady throttle for 5 minutes at max 60-80 km/h (max 40-50 mph).

Stop the car again and allow the engine to idle for 1 minute.

Ignition off

Diagnostic functions in the driving procedure

For each element listed in the "Driving procedure" section above, a corresponding description of which diagnostic function/functions is being carried out in that element is found below.

The parameter name of the diagnostic function that can be read in the VIDA Vehicle communication input is indicated in parenthesis (and bold text): Readout of diagnostic operating cycle. The following parameters/diagnostic functions can be read out:

Misfire.

Tank system.

Catalytic converter.

Heated oxygen sensor.

Fuel system.

Components.

Obs! The engine control module (ECM) continually performs the Misfire diagnostic function after engine start and is not found below.

For information on which diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) are part of each diagnostic function, see the section "Diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) included in the diagnostic function" below.

Diagnostic functions for each element of the driving procedure

EVAP control activated. Completed EVAP control is a condition that must be met before leakage diagnostics can start for the tank system.

Condition for the start of leakage diagnostics for the tank system ( Tank system ), EVAP control ( Tank system ), CVVT control ( Components ) and thermostat ( Components ).

Diagnostics for atmospheric pressure sensor (components) performed.

During acceleration: Leakage diagnostics for tank system ( Tank system ), EVAP control ( Tank system ), CVVT control and thermostat ( Components ) provided that points 1-2 are fulfilled. During travel: Diagnostics for fuel control in load range ( Fuel system ) and turbo control ( Components ). Diagnostics are active even if points 1-2 are not fulfilled.

Diagnostics for fuel control at idle speed ( Fuel system ) and idle control ( Components ).

Diagnostics for fuel control in load range ( Fuel system ), catalytic converter ( Catalytic converter ), heated oxygen sensors ( Heated oxygen sensor ) and thermostat ( Components ).

Diagnostics for fuel control at idle speed ( Fuel system ) and idle control ( Components ).

During acceleration: Diagnostics for turbo control and knock control ( Components ). At steady throttle: Diagnostics for fuel control in load range ( Fuel system ), catalytic converter ( Catalytic converter ), heated oxygen sensors ( Heated oxygen sensor )

Diagnostics for fuel control at idle speed ( Fuel system ) and idle control ( Components ).

Operating cycle completed.

Diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) included in the diagnostic function

Tips:

For information on diagnostic trouble codes, see the corresponding diagnostic trouble code information

Misfire

Diagnostic trouble code ECM-44, ECM-45 and ECM-4D

Fuel system

Diagnostic trouble code ECM-25

Catalytic converter

Diagnostic trouble code ECM-5A

Tank system

Diagnostic trouble code ECM-65, ECM-66, ECM-68 and ECM-6A

Heated oxygen sensor

Diagnostic trouble code ECM-28

Components

Other diagnostic trouble codes that activate the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) plus ECM-41 and 43. For information on diagnostic trouble codes that activate the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL), see Lighting the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) .

[theForgottenone]

that's wack for 00 S40. I just make sure my car is fully warm up (operating temp) when go testing for emission and don't turn the car off while waiting to go into the testing facility.

Maybe you should invest in a OBDII code reader as they're very inexpensive on ebay ($50-$60)

Innova 3030 (same brand but different model from IPD). It work great for me so far. Can diagnose the car yourself and reset CEL.

btw, visit us at s40concepts.net

[garbergtsi]

dont listen to xcite....theres alot more to it than that...

[theForgottenone]

dont listen to xcite....theres alot more to it than that...

ya..don't listen to me...i wouldn't know

funny how other 00 s40 on never had any problem passing emission (even in CA) especially on stock exhaust config

[Amy]

dont listen to xcite....theres alot more to it than that...

Agreed. (Sorry, xcite). If this were the case, then my car would have passed the first time.

The question I have, which of the above three procedures is the right one for a 2000 Volvo S40?

Or, should I just run all of them figuring that it can't hurt.

[MrWinkey]

Well I'm not getting into the middle of anything...what I gave you Amy was a basic generic drive cycle that I use on ALL the Volvos and it works....The Tripp is 100% correct as posted I looked it up today "however" if you miss one step or do it incorrectly you must start all over again.

What I cannot understand if your work was done back in Feb. why the car is not ready by now? I could understand it if the car was a 96 or a 97 because they are the worst to get ready . I have yet, too have an issue with anything 99 or newer. Once again the components monitor should have come right up after reseting the ECM and cycling the key? Unless the machine they used(and there are several that run the same test) could be using components as a generic description for all of them meaning your evap or catalyst are not up as they sometimes can be the last to go ready. If you do follow Volvo's Tripp and do it flawlessly all monitors will be up at the end of the tripp. However my procedure should work if it is done as stated 4 times without shutting the car off in between and all monitors should be up. As for xcites40's comment I believe he needs to do some research

One more thing if you cannot get it to go ready and it fails again (you must return to the place that ran the inital test for the free re-test) and you bite the bullet and take it too Volvo for the $150 I would like too know if they are actually giving you a test or writing a waiver. Remember what I said previously, in PA if you spend $150 you get a waiver if the car still is not repaired to standard.

Let us know how you make out B)

[Guest Guest]

That procedure is rediculous. There is no way that you have to do that to prepare your car for an emissions test. You want to reset your computer, unplug the negative battery terminal for 30 minutes. If you get a check engine light, it takes three drive cycles to clear if the condition has been corrected. My suggestion is pour a bottle of fuel injector cleaner in on an empty tank, fill up with premium, and make sure you drive at least 20 minutes before your test.

and definitely come over to s40concepts.net