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Removal And Installation Of The Outer Tie Rod


Kashif

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The Outer Tie Rod can sometimes be a really easy removal or one big hassle. One should first go to Autozone or wherever and rent a ball joint separator, and get some PB blaster or 10WD40 (I used this)

I began by first jacking up and placing the car on jackstands on both sides. I then removing the sway bar links from the strut (this only allowed me to move the strut more freely when I removed the control arm).

Then I measured the distance from the end of Outer Tie Rod to the Rubber dust boot located on the Inner Tie Rod, and recorded this value. Then I cleaned the threads and retaining nut with a toothbrush and 10WD40. Then I placed a 7/8 standard or equivalent metric wrench on this bolt and TURNED IT CLOCKWISE (This works on both sides).

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Just break loose the nut, don’t turn it too much.

Once the bolt has broken loose move over to the Outer Tie Rod bolt located on the strut. Remove this bolt and try to pull the Outer Tie Rod out of the Strut. If you can’t remove the Outer Tie Rod from the strut, place a ball joint separator on the strut to remove the Outer Tie Rod (one of mine came out easily by hand, the other had to be popped out with a ball joint separator).

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Now count and record the number of the turns it takes to remove the Outer Tie Rod.

Install the new Outer Tie Rod by screwing in the new Outer Tie Rod by the same number of turns and ensure the distance that you recorded before is the same.

Put the New Tie Rod into the strut and have someone hold the end of the bolt while you tighten the nut. I needed my brother to hold the end of the bolt because if I tightened the nut by myself the whole blot would turn and twist the rubber boot of the Outer Tie Rod. Eventually it will be too difficult to do this and now you can use your torque wrench to toque it to 51 ft*lbs and another 90 degrees.

Finally really tighten the Retaining Nut on the Outer Tie Rod that you turned clockwise before now TURN IT COUNTER CLOCKWISE.

Finally get the car aligned.

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Why bother measureing if you are counting the turns along with getting an alignment?

Ok, If the alignment was fine before the ball joint repair then why get an alignment if you counted turns, measured and everything was the same as the beginning? :unsure:

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Ok, If the alignment was fine before the ball joint repair then why get an alignment if you counted turns, measured and everything was the same as the beginning? :unsure:

Because toe in can still be off by a few degrees. The inner tie rod still rotates a little bit during this procedure.

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Ok, If the alignment was fine before the ball joint repair then why get an alignment if you counted turns, measured and everything was the same as the beginning? :unsure:

I had the Car align two days ago and even after trying to be a perfect as possible, I was still off a few degrees (I was off 0.07 degrees). So Yes even after you try to be as close as possible you should still have the car aligned.

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