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Upper Rear Motor Mount


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I'm assuming you're talking about one-piece torque mount (oem or uro).

This worked for me: http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/engine_mount2.php

Also, somebody suggested installing them 'angled' a little bit compared to original position (to lessen the stress I suppose) to extend life. I did just that, and the vibration is not as bad as poly (which I have on the V70), and hoping it would last longer.

Work safely :)

OrleeC

Got the old one out, and can't get the new one from FCP in. Any tips? It almost looks too big for the mount holder.

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Thanks for the info, i'm assuming this is all available at Home Depot? I can't believe how ridiculous it would be to get this in!!! Now i have to wait til my dad gets home to drive me there, as i have no mount there at all. :angry::angry:

you can still drive without the mount in there...

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No way that bushing is going into the mount from the drivers side, there has to be an easier way.

It goes in from the passenger side. The bracket is flared a bit on that side, so it's not too hard to get the bushing started.

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No way that bushing is going into the mount from the drivers side, there has to be an easier way.

u shoulda got the 2 piece mount from ipd. i put 3 of those in.

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It goes in from the passenger side. The bracket is flared a bit on that side, so it's not too hard to get the bushing started.

Yea i know that, but there is no way i can get it started, how did you eventually get it in? I've tried for three hours with 2 c-clamps and lube, and it won't budge, i even sanded down the plastic to no avail

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I'm assuming you're talking about one-piece torque mount (oem or uro).

This worked for me: <a href="http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/engine_mount2.php" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/engine_mount2.php</a>

Also, somebody suggested installing them 'angled' a little bit compared to original position (to lessen the stress I suppose) to extend life. I did just that, and the vibration is not as bad as poly (which I have on the V70), and hoping it would last longer.

Work safely :)

OrleeC

Piece of cake using this homemade tool except with a slight twist.

1. Lay out some paper towel or rags around the old bushing for the next step.

2. Take a hacksaw and cut out the rubber center of the old mount. The rags should collect all the bits of rubber as you cut.

3. Set up the new mount over the old one, on the left (driver's) side, with the home-made tool and press it in with the split ABS coupling on the opposite end. Old mount helps to keep the new mount square and in position. Arrow on the rubber should be towards the left (driver's side) and pointing straight up.

4. Tighten the nut to press the new bushing in until the old bushing makes contact with the plate and can go no farther. The split ABS coupling allows the old bushing to come out as the new one goes in. By now, you'll notice the new bushing is in most of the way and the old one is almost out.

5. Take apart the homemade tool and using a hammer and knock off the old bushing from the side.

6. Reassemble the tool and using the split ABS coupling to finish off the new mount into position.

7. Reassemble the arm to your new OEM mount.

I didn't angle the mount. It's easy with this tool and my OEM mount has lasted over two years now.

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:crosses fingers: i hope
The home-made tool will work fine. After I got the old mount out the new one was installed in a matter of minutes. Longest part was walking next door to my neighbor's house to borrow a hacksaw to cut the PVC spacer lengthwise so it could expand around the bushing.

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It goes in from the passenger side. The bracket is flared a bit on that side, so it's not too hard to get the bushing started.

When I did job this on my car, the mount had to be pressed in from the opposite side from what the writeup says.

So here is the key: look carefully for which side of the bracket is flared. Once you identify that, the home-made kit works pretty well for installing. Still a bit of a hassle if the old mount is out, but it works.

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