betterthingstodo Posted December 31, 2007 Report Share Posted December 31, 2007 I've posted a write up from the notes and pictures I took while replacing my PCV yesterday. If you have a few minutes I'd appreciate it if you could take a look at what I've got and give me your feedback. Once I'm comfortable with the write up I'll post the it here if that's okay with the board admins?? Or I can just leave it where it is.I tried to be thorough, perhaps too simple at times but this reflects all the things I had to work through and figure out so I figured someone else might gain from what I learned.Please correct me if I've misidentified a part or hose I'll correct it online as I get them. I could use some help in step 5, what are those 2 little hoses? Probably didn't need to disconnect them but I wanted to reduce any snags I might encounter as I moved the intake manifold away from the block.Thanks!http://lakesidedp.com/uploadpics/pcv/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Betty Posted December 31, 2007 Report Share Posted December 31, 2007 wow!! great write up my only comments/ questions aredid you remove the coolant hose to get to the bottom passenger side manifold bolt?and i found it easier to completely disconnect the manifold from the car, most of the hoses were brittle and i decided to just replace them also i decided to remove the battery and air cleaner assembly so that i had more room to work, plus the battery tray made a good tool trayas for you question about step 5 are you talking about hoses going to the manifold or to the vacuume tree? i know one of the hoses connecting to the manifold is connected to the evap valve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
betterthingstodo Posted December 31, 2007 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2007 wow!! great write up my only comments/ questions aredid you remove the coolant hose to get to the bottom passenger side manifold bolt?and i found it easier to completely disconnect the manifold from the car, most of the hoses were brittle and i decided to just replace them also i decided to remove the battery and air cleaner assembly so that i had more room to work, plus the battery tray made a good tool trayas for you question about step 5 are you talking about hoses going to the manifold or to the vacuume tree? i know one of the hoses connecting to the manifold is connected to the evap valveI left the coolant hose in place, a long extension gave me a clear shot at the bolt. If I were to do it again I'd replace some of those small vacuum hoses that seem to run everywhere while I was at it.In step 5 yes I think both of those tubes go to the vacuum tree.When you completely removed your manifold I'm guessing you removed the injectors? Probably should preface the write up with a mention of leaving the injectors and TB in place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spanky Posted December 31, 2007 Report Share Posted December 31, 2007 I've posted a write up from the notes and pictures I took while replacing my PCV yesterday. If you have a few minutes I'd appreciate it if you could take a look at what I've got and give me your feedback. Once I'm comfortable with the write up I'll post the it here if that's okay with the board admins?? Or I can just leave it where it is.I tried to be thorough, perhaps too simple at times but this reflects all the things I had to work through and figure out so I figured someone else might gain from what I learned.Please correct me if I've misidentified a part or hose I'll correct it online as I get them. I could use some help in step 5, what are those 2 little hoses? Probably didn't need to disconnect them but I wanted to reduce any snags I might encounter as I moved the intake manifold away from the block.Thanks!http://lakesidedp.com/uploadpics/pcv/Nice write up!! Do you remember the diameter of the tubing you used? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oreo931 Posted December 31, 2007 Report Share Posted December 31, 2007 Congrats on a job well done Zimbo! hopefully this will be pinned and you will get a supporting membership for taking the time to do this .question though...why did you need to put the car on ramps? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
betterthingstodo Posted December 31, 2007 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2007 Congrats on a job well done Zimbo! hopefully this will be pinned and you will get a supporting membership for taking the time to do this .question though...why did you need to put the car on ramps?I read a post that someone mentioned that was the easiest way to get at the dipstick bolt. I tried to break the bolt with my spanner wrench from above but could not get the leverage. That bolt was the hardest to break free of all the bolts I encountered on this job. I probably would have ended up taking the fan shroud off had I not had the car up on the ramps. Then when I put the bolt back in I could not line the thing up from the top to get the bolt started. Ended up on my back under the car and had my wife hold the dipstick in place so I could get a clear view of the alignment. That was much easier for me! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
betterthingstodo Posted December 31, 2007 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2007 Nice write up!! Do you remember the diameter of the tubing you used?I'm guessing you mean the gas line.I took a piece of it to the auto store and they gave me 1/4" SAE 30R6KX tubing as a match.Pretty tough to get back on the nipples. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoodleKnight Posted December 31, 2007 Report Share Posted December 31, 2007 Nice write up. Good job!In step 5, the white plastic vacuum hose goes to the cruise control (I think), and the other one is the evap hose.I think in step 4, hose 4C is the brake booster vacuum hose.In step 8, removing the knock sensor isn't totally necessary, but it does help with getting stuff out of the way.Also, in step 10, using a beefy pair of wire cutters works quite well to crimp those oetiker clamps, which are supposed to be better because unlike worm clamps, they won't loosen over time.Just a few things I noticed while doing the PCV on my car. Hope this helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Betty Posted December 31, 2007 Report Share Posted December 31, 2007 well if your talking about the vacumme lines at the tree one goes to the boost gauge in the car and i forget where the other one goesand yes i removed my rail from my manifold and also removed the throttle body, i decided to throughly clean the throttle body and had planned to get the injectors professionaly cleaned but i ran out of time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erikv11 Posted December 31, 2007 Report Share Posted December 31, 2007 fantastic!Here are some comments:850s do not have a PCV valve, but sure they have a "PCV system" to vent the crankcase. So that opening paragraph is all true stuff, but potentially confusing. Similarly, in step 8 (ok and later in step 10) you refer to "remove the PCV" I would say "remove the oil trap." That is not a one way valve, it is a chamber that collects oil and drains it back into the block. It is an oil trap. I would use the same words for all that other stuff, "PCV hose" etc. Step 9 that little port at the bottom is really pesky, might want to recommend people to ream it out with a drill bit to be sure it is open. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spanky Posted December 31, 2007 Report Share Posted December 31, 2007 I'm guessing you mean the gas line.I took a piece of it to the auto store and they gave me 1/4" SAE 30R6KX tubing as a match.Pretty tough to get back on the nipples.huhuhuhhuhuhuh...... he said "nipples"..... huhuhhuh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocketman4321 Posted December 31, 2007 Report Share Posted December 31, 2007 How do I add the 100k "EGR System, clean" while I'm at this? Kit's on the way from FCP; I'll probably do it Saturday, so this great writeup is timely! But isn't the EGR valve in the same general area next to the throttle body and below the intake manifold? ("96 850T if that matters.) I saw a separate writeup on that, but it seems like you'd have a lot of the stuff out of the way while doing PCV.Also, why do you remove the one engine knock sensor? Interferes with something? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
betterthingstodo Posted December 31, 2007 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2007 Version 2 of the write up is posted.I tried to incorporate all your comments as best I could.Let me know what you think.Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Betty Posted December 31, 2007 Report Share Posted December 31, 2007 How do I add the 100k "EGR System, clean" while I'm at this? Kit's on the way from FCP; I'll probably do it Saturday, so this great writeup is timely! But isn't the EGR valve in the same general area next to the throttle body and below the intake manifold? ("96 850T if that matters.) I saw a separate writeup on that, but it seems like you'd have a lot of the stuff out of the way while doing PCV.Also, why do you remove the one engine knock sensor? Interferes with something?yeah if you look at the picture when he says remove the knock sensor you can see a hole in the block where the knock sensor screws into, its best to just remove it to make your life easier Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
betterthingstodo Posted December 31, 2007 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2007 How do I add the 100k "EGR System, clean" while I'm at this? Kit's on the way from FCP; I'll probably do it Saturday, so this great writeup is timely! But isn't the EGR valve in the same general area next to the throttle body and below the intake manifold? ("96 850T if that matters.) I saw a separate writeup on that, but it seems like you'd have a lot of the stuff out of the way while doing PCV.Also, why do you remove the one engine knock sensor? Interferes with something?Never tackled an EGR service, can't really give you any advice.The knock sensor removes quite easily, makes it a little easier to just get it out of the way. I missed taking a picture of it while the trap was still in place but the tubing removed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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