howardc64 Posted April 20, 2008 Report Share Posted April 20, 2008 So I did the timing belt on my 01 V70 T5 a couple of days ago. Car feels like it has just slightly less power (Seems I have to put the foot down further to call up power) So reviewing all my timing marks again to make sure it isn't off a tooth. Everything seems dead on from the following pictures.Here is the timing cover marks along with the white paint marker on top. I know the camera angle shows a little off. But the white marker is right over the top of the timing marker.Here is the intake camHere is the exhaust camHere is the crank pulley, was hard to get this picture with spaces so tight Here is the tensionerI turn the crank clock and counter clock wise to see the offset on both cams + crank if it was off by a tooth, it seems quite obvious if it was off as one tooth shifts changes the timing mark alignment by quite a bit.My tensioner might be just a tad loose? (not enough counter clock wise). The garage is about 40F and the engine is dead cold. But can't imagine this would have any effect on the power output.Any thoughts? Just my imagination... running away with me? :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmelviØØ7 Posted April 20, 2008 Report Share Posted April 20, 2008 Timing marks look good, but it's possible your CVVT unit is not functioning. As for fixing this problem, I can't help ya there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
howardc64 Posted April 21, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2008 Timing marks look good, but it's possible your CVVT unit is not functioning. As for fixing this problem, I can't help ya there.Thanks, put everything back as the timing looks dead on.Then I took an interesting step and got my old performance back. When ETM was failing on my car some 40k miles ago. The engine kept on entering a sluggish performance mode with no diag lights or codes. I kinda guessed the ECU was being pretty conservative. So each time I reset the ECU by dis/reconnect battery for a period of time, it would come back with all the power but the failing ETM would soon put the engine back in a sluggish performance mode after a few days.When the dealer replaced my ETM along with the new software, the car didn't feel like it had more performance. Again no codes/no lights. I did a ECU reset again and the performance came right back and stay that way for the last 40k miles.After this timing belt change, the car didn't start up instantly like it always does. Rather, it cranked for a few seconds before firing up. Then everything was normal except as I reported here, something felt not right, car has slightly less power.So I remember my ETM experience and decided to do a ECU reset. So now the car is performing like it did before the timing belt change.I realize ECU running the car in a more sluggish mode is probably its way of protecting the engine when it senses something might be wrong. But isn't this a bit finicky? Would the performance have come back eventually after my ETM and now timing belt change? Maybe the ECU is keeping track to make sure no detected problems for awhile before allowing for more performance? Its kind of hard for me to figure out without knowledge of the ECU program. But just thought I share what I have observed on this car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmelviØØ7 Posted April 21, 2008 Report Share Posted April 21, 2008 I'm still saying it's your CVVT. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NWC70 Posted April 21, 2008 Report Share Posted April 21, 2008 I'm having a similiar problem after doing my Tbelt as well. What kind of boost #'s are you getting? I'm only holding 4psi but I think I have a vac leak or a leak on the intake. How do you test for cvvt failure, or what procedure would you do to check it off the list? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
howardc64 Posted April 22, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2008 I'm having a similiar problem after doing my Tbelt as well. What kind of boost #'s are you getting? I'm only holding 4psi but I think I have a vac leak or a leak on the intake. How do you test for cvvt failure, or what procedure would you do to check it off the list?Interesting read about this system in more modern carshttp://www.volvoclub.org.uk/volvo_workshop-me7.shtmlhttp://kaminskimik.com/user/image/cvvthowitworks.pdfhttp://www.vpcuk.org/forums/showthread.php?t=10230This is the first time I came across an issues that may involve CVVT. Are there CVVT problem that don't produce a fault code? (I have none at the moment)My PC based OBDII reader can probably get the turbo boost. Using macs now so have to load it up and see what I can capture. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YV1LS53 Posted April 22, 2008 Report Share Posted April 22, 2008 I'm still saying it's your CVVT.+1 def. your CVVT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
howardc64 Posted April 22, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2008 +1 def. your CVVTThanks guys. My car is running perfectly since the ECU reset and no codes. So it seems I have no problem at the moment. Are you suggesting that after a timing belt replacement, my slightly lower performance was due to a CVVT problem? And the problem seems to have magically disappeared now the car has the performance I've always had after the ECU reset?Plugged in my Auterra PC based OBDII reader last night and didn't see anything that can read the turbo boost. Also didn't see anything that would tell me exhaust valve timings in relation to the crank (have to admit lots of readings seems fuel related and are all Greek to me). Is there anything I can do to confirm CVVT is doing its job? Or should I just plan on sleeping well knowing the car is now performing as well as it always had :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rules Posted April 23, 2008 Report Share Posted April 23, 2008 Hi thereI need to change my belt as well so read through my Haynes manual and it all seems pretty easy/straight forward, except for the part of taking off the serpentine belt pulley. Is it really necessary, surely you can just slip the timing belt over the pulley, can't you?Cheers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
howardc64 Posted April 24, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2008 Hi thereI need to change my belt as well so read through my Haynes manual and it all seems pretty easy/straight forward, except for the part of taking off the serpentine belt pulley. Is it really necessary, surely you can just slip the timing belt over the pulley, can't you?Cheers.If your engine is the same as mine, then no need to take off the serpentine belt pulley. Below is a trail of info I found and left on this job. You also don't need to take the damper on the crank pulley off but it takes some patience to work through the weird angles to get the new belt in and clear 4 obstruction points. You might want to try to use the old belt to practice the best way to getting it in rather than putting wear on the new one. Even when you think you've got the belt on the crank, it might not have cleared the obstruction at 6 o'clock (might be visible from the bottom. I did it by feel) The belt won't be long enough to fit onto all the pulleys if this is the case.http://www.freewebs.com/howardsvolvos/engine.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PyROTech Posted April 24, 2008 Report Share Posted April 24, 2008 sorry to jump into the thread, but why does the ducting on top of the engine look different than mine??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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