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Pics Of Torgue Rod Bushing Tool In Action


sconeman

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Tool built from list on Matthews Volvo site. Let me say this. the bushing is not easy to get in.

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In Matthews list; get a long threaded rod and cut to size if you can't find the right size bolt. Also upgrade the washers to something larger diameter and thicker, as thick as you can find. They need to be monsters to withstand the crushing force that you put on them when you tighten the tool down.

At first the bushing will try to twist to one side or the other. To counter this just adjust it after each screw. Once you get the bushing 1/3 of the way in you won't have anymore trouble and it will go in straight by itself.

My first attempt with the washers listed on Matthews volvo site ended with the washers getting sucked into the tool when the crushing force exceeded thier tensile strength.

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I got the bushing about 1/2 way in before I had to upgrade the washers with something heavier duty. After this adjustment no problems.

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DONE!

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Seriously don't even bother replacing the torque rod bushing if you're not going to replace the firewall bushing too. As Hussein said It's so much stiffer than stock it makes a huge difference. Also since you have to remove the plastic cover you may as well replace your cabin air filter and re-black the plastic at the same time. My filter was unbelievably dirty!

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Good to know people are still referencing that write-up I submitted to MVS years back. As for the washers, I remember using really thick and large diameterwashers and perhaps a few more than shown in the pic very simliar to the ones in your pic. Your idea for a long threaded rod is a good one as the 5" threaded bolt is the longest I could find and just barely long enough for the job.

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Good to know people are still referencing that write-up I submitted to MVS years back. As for the washers, I remember using really thick and large diameterwashers and perhaps a few more than shown in the pic very simliar to the ones in your pic. Your idea for a long threaded rod is a good one as the 5" threaded bolt is the longest I could find and just barely long enough for the job.

cool man. Thanks for your help!

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good write-up.

a few notes.. if you're anal like me and like to push that last 1-2mm, use a 2" PVC coupling: $0.49 @ lowes

use grease on the long bolt; it'll make things a bit easier.

i used WD40 to lubricate the inside where the rubber is inserted. it also served to clean the area of residue.

i also put the rubber mount inside a ziplock bag and let it sit in the freezer overnite. it shrank in size a bit according to the digital caliper.

here's my setup:

V70_UEMTb.jpg

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good write-up.

a few notes.. if you're anal like me and like to push that last 1-2mm, use a 2" PVC coupling: $0.49 @ lowes

use grease on the long bolt; it'll make things a bit easier.

i used WD40 to lubricate the inside where the rubber is inserted. it also served to clean the area of residue.

i also put the rubber mount inside a ziplock bag and let it sit in the freezer overnite. it shrank in size a bit according to the digital caliper.

Very nice. Great additional info. BTW I used some lithium grease to lube it. Forgot to mention.

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I used the split abs coupling at the opposite end as a spacer for the old bushing to be pressed out by the new one. Cut out, if not already broken, the center core of the old bushing for the new bushing's center core to fit in for clearance.

This variation to Geevs' method avoids having to cut out the old bushing but let the new bushing push out the old. I keep this useful tool in my tool box and has saved me a bundle. Thanks Geevs!

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