Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/29/2020 in all areas

  1. 6 points
    Hi all, OG T5power aka Goldmember here, back again. Got out of my 2013 S60 T5 AWD and my 2006 Lexus LS430, and bought a 2018 S90 T6 Inscription in late June. I also had it Polestar Optimised. This is my favorite vehicle I have ever owned, and is well worth the upgrade over the S60 I had. I added a V90 R-Design lower valance, R-Design grille, HEICO SPORTIV Springs & Block spacers, H&R 20mm spacers, those were needed to add the freshly-powdercoated 20" Cratus wheels I had done. a few other minor things like tint, debadged partially, and blacking out the window trim. Enjoy! Regards, -Corey
  2. 6 points
  3. 5 points
  4. 4 points
    Front suspension woes - car handles like crap. Reworked the sway bar mounts and end links new control arms and bushings cut off the water pipe tunnel cover to inspect level of damage to pipes made new adaptor plates to fit C30 rear sway bare endlinks to the front - much higher degree of misalignment without binding than the old V70 AWD rear end links used previously MFactory 4.00:1 R&P will go in when I drop the drivetrain to do the HG Finally got the car back from the bodyshop - pouring rain, but it's gonna be like this for days & I just want it home Happy with the nose, the lines where I had to merge the planes came out OK They did have to redo some of my work on top spoiler (modified S40 rear bumper cap)... Started putting the nose back together, now that the suspension /steering work is resolved. Got the 760 sway bar back in with the C30 end links, and SuperPro bushings (SPF1025-23K) Drilled the strut towers for the Ford mounts Got a K20Z3 (RBC-1) head - better flow than the RBB I have now. It is all nicely cleaned, decked & valve seats recut. Keeping the TSX cams & RBC gear limited to 40º. I'll swap it out when I drop the drivetrain to deal with the currently leaking HG, and install the 4:00 R&P. Car went back to the bodyshop this week to fix a few small things that just weren't right. All good now. Worked on the tape stripes and decals whilst the temps are still in the 60's - I cut the decals from 3M 1080 film - easier to deal with than old school vinyl for sure S40 rear bumper cover worked great for the spoiler Used a 3mm gold strip to even out the (hand) cut edge
  5. 4 points
  6. 3 points
    I just got the 850 back Saturday, drove it back to Austin. Tune needs some work but its got a new engine, dash, PDR, headliner, paint job, tires, starter, fuel pump, and master slave cylinder for the M56.
  7. 3 points
  8. 3 points
    Another Killboy pic.
  9. 3 points
    damn - never knew that was what you did... i knew you traveled a lot tho I have friends all over the place on this... some that refuse to wear masks even in stores and make a big stink and some that wont even come over to my house to have socially distanced drinks in the driveway. just to add to what I said earlier... im nervous. i dont want to get sick. i never get sick. i go years without getting a basic cold. im healthy, but the underlying heart and lung issues some people get after the fact are fucking scary. i want things back to normal too... but unlike most amongst my millennial brethren i know it take a little work and discipline to get back to normal here... it seems my age bracket is really messing things up lately regarding covid with the highest transmission rates etc. (20-30 years old) and i know exactly why... they got their photos on ig of their masks and they are just tired of it now, they dont want to do this anymore, and mom and dad cant fix this problem for them... they cant go on their vanity trips, they didnt save any money these past 10 years from getting out of school, the list goes on. Did i ever say i hate my generation? GET THE FUCK OFF OF MY LAWN TOO.
  10. 3 points
    I can't help but think how different the responses would have been ten years ago when the forum was busier and most of us had less of a....filter.
  11. 3 points
    Your stock C70 is not fast. I'm not entirely sure what you expected the forum's response was going to be when you made a post about street racing at every red light? The level of butt hurt after two posts that weren't even insulting is tremendous though. I'd love to see how off the rails you'd go if someone said something that was actually mean.
  12. 3 points
    VS IS BACK! YES! Dude dont bother racing your unmodded 22 year old front wheel drive volvo from stop lights... especially in your rainy state. im not going to tell you its unsafe or for kids... you are just gonna lose, a lot.
  13. 3 points
    Wow this guy IS that fucking dumb, I win the bet guys
  14. 2 points
    I wouldn't want to be friends with anyone that doesn't love puppies.
  15. 2 points
    I guess this technically fits here since we did purchase him lol. Picked up our 8wk old 5.5lb Corgi on the way back from Savannah Sunday. VS, meet Flapjack
  16. 2 points
  17. 2 points
    A little late, but here's my 2018 S90 T6 Inscription with Polestar Optimisation. I bought it in June, and have since lowered it on HEICO springs, blacked out the window trim, V90 R-Design Grille and lower valance, tint, partial debadge, freshly powdercoated Cratus 20's, and H&R 20mm spacers. I LOVE this car. I'm so glad I bought it. I traded in the S60 T5 AWD. I still have the BBS's waiting to go on the S90 in the spring, I think.
  18. 2 points
    Bud ignore these fools. I suggest you do the caf mod. What the caf mod is is super simple really. Go find those like old school metal cafeteria treys, the thicker the better for sure here. put them under the rear wheels, and rip that Ebrake as far as it'll go. Put it in drive and proceed to slide that ass all over the parking lot until the pans run through. Thank me later bud.
  19. 2 points
    Pretty fall colors.
  20. 2 points
    End of the day, there are people that drive on torn boots for a long time without issues, but it can become an issue. Beginning of the day, its a relatively simple fix, axles are roughly $40-100 each. (try to find OEM remans if you don't want to do them again in a couple years and to avoid possible headaches of aftermarket fitment) If you have a jack, jackstands, axle nut socket, breaker bar, and a couple wrenches/sockets you should be golden.
  21. 2 points
    I race, I don't street race. Easily 12 pages.
  22. 2 points
    A few highlights from the most recent 40 or so pages
  23. 2 points
    You’re obviously either 17 or just fucking dumb maybe both, time will tell. Keep up the great work
  24. 2 points
    First drive went well except some small issues with the rear cv boots...
  25. 2 points
    How about an OG Zoom?
  26. 1 point
    Worked on installing the aftermarket (VW-based) Van Der Veer Haldex Controller over the summer - forgot to bring it here, I can't access my old C30 thread. AWD conversion thread on C30Crew Controller is set using a phone app via BT He makes these plug 'n' play for VW applications. In my case I had him ship with 1 metre pigtails off the controller & I added the Volvo-specific male/female harness connectors. Volvo uses 1.5mm & 2.8mm YESC series (Yazaki) terminals in the Molex 12 pole DEM connector housings Add the factory grommet before the external male end connector Just needs the male connector now A bridge set of 2 wires (5,6 CANhigh CANlow) had to be added due to the way Volvo wires the haldex controller CANbus loop. The device only needs 4 wires (1,2 power&ground & 3,4 CANhigh CANlow) to operate add ABS harness through grommet before install install location under rear seat, right side unit is velcro'd in place, like the Volvo fuel module in same location on left side under seat reinstall protector plate reconnect & anchor harnesses under car reinstall splash guard Remove Volvo Haldex Gen2 Module & install VW-based Gen2 unit - solenoid & valve are Volvo-supplied Gen2. It's just different software that requires the replacement. If the Volvo Gen2 units could be re-flashed with the VW Gen2 software, it would make the conversion several hundred dollars cheaper. Once wired, Controller is then paired with phone app via BT Unfortunately for me, that's not the end of the story. The VW controller was wreaking havoc with the Volvo CAN network. disabling the CAN inputs doesn't prevent data transfer, & the car is rejecting the transplant Tach & coolant gauges also drop out as the system cyles between the two prevailing system errors I disconnected the CANhigh & CANlow inputs to the controller for now. Car can't be driven. Since this controller is also designed to function as a standalone on vehicles pre-dating CAN, basic function (% of engagement) should be available, I just won't have all the niceties until Jeroen can review some data logs & (presumably) write appropriate code to make the Volvo-side happy. I have a CANUSB convertor that he recommended to extract data via software he provided, so I can give him data logs to review. The initial problem turned out to be the way Volvo looped the CAN high/low on the DEM/output side of the circuit - the controller blocks the CAN broadcast off the input side. Once I removed the two CAN signal wires that loop from the DEM to the ADM and from there to the SWM, everything was fine (from that perspective). Overall wiring layout (except for 5,6 removed from connector 64/50 for now): The AOC doesnt seem to be working though. With his app I can change the % of engagement in increments from 100/0 (essentially off) to 50/50. At 50/50 there should be no front wheelspin when launching, with mine it makes no difference. If the data displayed in his app is accurate, the recorded system temp (198C) is way over the Volvo predetermined cut off point of 105C (taken from info in VIDA section 465/DEM design & function). Looking around, others have had problems with this low cut off & apparently there was a service fix. I’m not sure how relevant that data is though, since I’m using the VW Gen2 DEM now. I’m waiting for a response from him as to how to proceed. in the screenshot of the Settings window, it shows the Controller Temp @ 34C - but that may mean the head unit, not the AOC controller (DEM) so now I don't know what is going on. I'll wait until I hear back before considering about what to do next. Put in a new oil temp / pressure sensor as that was the most likely candidate. Along with a new Volvo seal kit. VW sells it for less, but no stock in the US Still front wheel burnouts, without trying very hard After that, I wired in an OBDII port for just the Haldex DEM, so it can be read. I also ran a new harness I made for the Leak Detection Pump, as the codes for that are recurring, and I figured the harness repair I made when I did the install was the most likely culprit. CAN high, CAN low, power & grounds TS 090 terminals & housings EVAP Pump harness into the 64/51 connector, pins 9-12. Yazaki terminals pump end terminals & connector from Mouser ran new harness behind heat shield over subframe, sheathed in DEI No more error codes. On the Haldex front, using VCDS ( a saga in of itself), I can extract data from the DEM error code confirms original temp/pressure sender was an issue what is apparent now is that the system thinks the eBrake is on, so no wonder it's not operational pump pressure & AOC temps are good More to figure out. Oct 2020: VanDerVeer finally figured out why his controller wasn't working with my unit - when running some tests using Volvo solenoid & sensor with the VW module, apparently there is a glitch in Gen2 control - the chosen mode has to be cycled off/on with the car running to activate the AWD. So, I have working AWD again, very happy. He will work on fixing the software glitch. With that, I started providing him with CAN data logs (through CAN Monitor Pro) to determine Volvo settings for throttle, brake, eBrake, rpm and speed signals. Once he is done, there will be a setting in the app that allows you to choose what auto manufacturer the CAN signals originate from, so that all the modes will be usable. Right now, I can only use the Lock mode & set the percentage of split Also added a Quaife posi to a spare rear -- Ring gear is now transferred & welded to the new rear LSD. $250 later it's done. Now I have to install the new bearings (32008X/Q) and check the backlash. He said it was a royal pita to essentially machine the old diff out of the ring gear, the welds were deep Note: 999-7160 special tool required to remove rear axles without damage to casing Installed the carrier bearings 32008X/Q x2 about an hour or so to get the mating surfaces free of anaerobic sealant remains preload/gear offset shim on right side, left side gets the backlash adjuster right side cup & preload/gear offset shim going in diff in, cover sealed with anaerobic sealant, torqued to 18ft/lb new axle seals 8653928 x2 preload set (5.25 turns), then used old seal to install new seals Had to drill & tap the remains of the rear CV, it was jammed in the pinion flange Next I can remove the flange, and replace the Haldex filter & rebuild the pump. Extracted the torque mount bushing. The Manual version is a different composition than the Auto. Not a fun job Used part of a three-jaw puller and a X1/9 rear hub bearing to pull it into the housing Also changed the two filter/vents fo rth Haldex & Diff 31256914 bush 30681138 x2 filter/vent
  27. 1 point
    Hey H, Yeah I could modify the diameter of my adapter to work for your axle. Just need the OD of the CV where the metal flange crimps onto and location of any recesses where the grub screws could bite into (such as channel where the metal crimps onto). My plastic version seems to be holding up fairly well so far. More FWD testing. OEM propshaft is on order (9463300). This a 2000 V70R propshaft with the largest carrier of em all. Should be arriving today! Also need to do a one over on all the bolts and get my new tires mounted.
  28. 1 point
    Incredible work as always! This car just keeps getting better!
  29. 1 point
    This should be a direct swap, no differences with the PNP switch or anything else as long as it's an AW50-42. Use your original torque converter if you prefer.
  30. 1 point
  31. 1 point
    Resolved the issues with the rear outer CV boots rubbing on the control arms due to the use of 960 axles.
  32. 1 point
    As suggested, have someone tune the car for you. No sense in changing the ECU around.
  33. 1 point
    Nice read! Thank you. Best of luck on the closed deck.
  34. 1 point
    anyone had it? We are on DefCon 3 at our house. I know a few people that have had it, but no lose of life.
  35. 1 point
    It is difficult to get decent quality aftermarket axles. Replacing the boots is by far the cheapest and most effective way to go here. It is a somewhat slow and messy job though.
  36. 1 point
    I had an S70 once that I did not know had bad axles. Shortly after I bought it I was driving one day and all of a sudden the front PS of the car felt like I was going over huge bumps. Just that one side. It would go away after several seconds. After looking around I ended up replacing the axle and when I took it out the axle was effectively solid. What was happening was it was binding while I was driving. Not saying this will happen to you, but while you could be totally fine driving on it with torn boots, they can and will eventually fail.
  37. 1 point
    put the car up on stands or your jack. put your hands on wheel at 9oclock and 3oclock. wiggle wheel back and forth. then try same at 12 and 6 and look for wheel wiggling. if it seems loosey goosey you may need to replace sooner than later. the wheel will move some since there is no pressure on steering system.
  38. 1 point
    Anytime I see someone with COVID I try to race them at the next redlight.
  39. 1 point
    Agreed. This thread would’ve been a 12 page flame fest back then.
  40. 1 point
    Quip they just hating because your 14t is a lil hit in the seat when you step on it, they've all moved on to much larger turbos and experience turbo lag now. Honestly though, this thread is great. I love it. Be you bro.
  41. 1 point
    We've all had it at work. Everyone had a different level, but yet no one got like deathly sick. At worst, the owner had the runs.
  42. 1 point
    well the debate was a complete shit show.
  43. 1 point
    I can't blame you for getting side-tracked by the new truck - that LX570 looks really cool, those are super nice. My buddy picked up a J200 Land Cruiser (I forget which year) a little ways back and it's a really impressive vehicle. Yeah, I was really surprised by how much it helped out. Yeah, I'm running the 99 transmission mount on with the bracket Hussein made. Thanks! Yeah, I've been really impressed with the M12 impact so far. I use it for just about anything on the car I can. To pick up where I left off on my last post, I replaced the OEM battery cables with some upgraded cables I made myself - what I did is not very different than the "Big 3" upgrade described in this write-up. Most of you probably know that the stock cables are notorious for voltage drop as they age, especially on the 99/00 models. While I never experienced any voltage drop issues on this car, with a stereo system upgrade in the future, it was a good time to upgrade. To start, I removed the stock cables from the factory loom, which was the most tedious part of the whole process, and used them as templates to order new bulk cable and battery terminals from KnuKonceptz. I used 1/0 AWG Kolossus Flex for the main alternator/starter/battery cables, 4 AWG cable for the B+ cable to the main fusebox, and 8 AWG for the ground straps on the cylinder head. Given the stock alternator is rated at 125 amps, I used a reference chart from Crutchfield to verify the wire size for each new cable would meet/exceed the ampacity of the stock cables. The new alternator/starter/battery cables basically follow the stock routing, but are outside of the main engine harness - while the Kolossus Flex cable is flexible enough to follow the stock routing, unfortunately there was not enough room in the stock plastic housing for the new cables to fit. The cables are terminated with crimped-on ring terminals and adhesive-lined heat shrink boots. I used a pair of Bassik battery terminals - I'm not 100% sold on continuing to use them due to the space constraints caused by the stock airbox, but they were the best available choice in terms on physical size and still offering a variety of set screws to work with the ring terminals on the cables. I may try a pair of top-post "mil-spec" terminal from Napa at some point in the future. The 4 AWG wire fit fit neatly into the stock rubber boot and loom at the main fusebox. Form a 90* bend in the ring terminal inside the fusebox allowed it to join right up to the stock terminal post and keep everything clean/stock-looking. I replaced the 2 braided ground straps that run from the cam cover to the chassis with 8 AWG. And last but not least, I ran a length of 1/0 AWG from the battery to the truck to supply power a stereo amplifier and AC power inverter. The 1/0 fits through the drivers side accessory grommet, but just barely. I wanted to keep the "wiring train" rolling, so I ran all the wiring for my AEM WBO2 and boost gauges. During the engine swap last year, I had a friend add a bung to the stock downpipe. I am planning on adding a 3" downpipe in the near future, but it doesn't hurt to keep an eye on the AFRs in the meantime. Since there wasn't room in the accessory pass-through, I ran the WB wires through the firewall grommet on the drivers side of the car, then through an open spot on the fusebox to get behind/underneath the dashboard. The boost gauge and oil pressure gauge wiring fits neatly through the accessory pass-through with the stereo power cable. I'm using the previous-gen AEM UEGO, which utilizes a Bosch LSU 4.2 sensor. The current gen uses the newer Bosch LSU 4.9 sensor, and is much faster/more accurate. Conveniently, the LSU 4.2 sensor is the same as the stock front O2 sensor, and the plugs are even identical: This means I can quickly swap sensors between the ECU and the AEM gauge to troubleshoot if I suspect there's an issue with one of them. I made a sub-harness that connects to the stock accessory connector to supply power to all 3 A-pillar gauges (WBO2, boost, and future oil pressure): I replaced the stock accessory connector with a 6 pin weatherpack connector, then ran my relay so that everything is ignition-switched while ensuring there was adequate power supply (10 amps for WB02, <1 amp each for the other gauges). Each gauge plugs into one of the 2-pin weatherpack connectors, and allows me to easily remove one or all the gauges if needed. The junctions are properly parallel-spliced and heat-shrunk. I don't use solder for anything on a car - crimped joints are much more tolerant of the vibration that a car generates and will be more reliable in the long run. Using the proper crimp tool, weatherpack terminals are inexpensive, reliable and easy to terminate: You can save yourself the trouble and buy a pre-made harness from @JVC that plugs right into the stock accessory connector. I installed mine a few days before he put the F/S ad up, otherwise I would've bought one. One day this summer, I ran some errands, went back into my apartment, then came back out to finish unloading the car and saw this mess The piece of heater hose I used to delete the PCV banjo bolt system had failed and was leaking coolant. I pulled it apart, and went to install the stock hose/banjo bolt assembly and ran into a small snag: I'm running an 04 engine, but used the 00 thermostat housing so I can replace the thermostat without needing to remove the whole housing. As it turns out, the 04 PCV coolant hose needed to be trimmed to fit on the 00 housing. Once the hose was cut and the orientation adjusted, it was an easy install. Since I had previously deleted/blocked off the banjo bolt, I took the opportunity to install the updated banjo bolt with the internal check valve, PN 31325709. While I was in there, I replaced the thermostat and put a new o-ring on, and replaced the Reinz thermostat housing gasket with an OEM one. The Reinz gasket had slowly leaked ever since I installed it, so I'm glad that leak is gone. There's factory TSB that advises using 2 gaskets in that location to prevent leaks, but mine has been okay so far. I've got spare gaskets sitting on the shelf if problems arise. While I had the intake manifold off and everything torn apart, I replaced the worn-out vacuum check valves with new OEM valves (PN: 1275226 - thanks @B Mac) and most of the rubber vacuum lines with new silicone lines from FlexTech. The lines I replaced are the TCV lines, CBV line, and EVAP purge valve line. It may not seem like much, but I had been ignoring the vacuum lines since I swapped this engine into the car in January 2019 and I'm really glad I got that sorted out. Here's the stock P80 ME7 vacuum line diagram for reference: I used constant-tension clamps from Bel-Metric to keep each hose securely in place - no more messing around with zip ties to hold those lines on. It also gives the aftermarket lines a nice OEM+ appearance that I appreciate. I used several sizes of clamp based on the various OD sizes of the different hoses. I did not buy the CTC pliers, instead I used a pair of needle-nose vice grips. The vice grips made it easy to lock the clamp fully open, slide it into place, then slowly release the clamp in the orientation I wanted. Each clamp was placed so that future access with the needle-nose vice grips will be as easy as possible. Up next will be the story of my injector woes
  44. 1 point
    Did a mountain on the most overrated "driving" road in the country. At least the other spots we hit up before it were good. P.S. if you're in the area of the ToD hit up Joyce Kilmer Rd. Joyce Kilmer > 129. Elliott bought his "new" RHD Scottish import 944 S2 for a shake down.
  45. 1 point
    I need to document the modifications made to the car and drivetrain before I forget them. Below is everything that has been done to the chassis, engine, transmission, brakes, turbo, etc.: Engine: B5244T3 LPT Block from a '02 S60, Shimmed cylinders, B&B, Ported and Polished, matched Intake and Exhaust Mani ports ENEM Sport Cams CXRacing Forged H-Beam Rods Custom Wesco Pistons with 25mm wrist pins APR Head bolts MPRE Oil Gate Evan's Waterless Coolant converted "Green" 450cc Injectors installed, 650cc Injectors ready for fuel pump upgrade Snabb Intake spacer and Exhaust gasket Samco Silicone Hoses IPD Upper Engine Stabilizer New Bosch Starter XMODEX Rebuilt Throttle Body (Contact-less Position Sensor) Turbo: 20T Turbo with 11 Blade Impeller and 11 Blade Compressor, balanced Intake: Snabb Intake pipe Custom designed 3" Core Intercooler. Custom Pipe routing with Methanol Injection. K&N Intake Mini Filter and Housing Exhaust: Japanafold Exhaust Manifold (from a 2004 S60R) EuroSport Tuning Downpipe EuroSport Tuning Cat Back Dual outlet full Exhaust Ceramic Coating (black with silver tips) New O2 Sensors with spacers. Transmission: M66 from a 04 S60 AWD, refreshed with new bearings, seals and coupler Quaife LSD Kalmar Union Single Mass Flywheel AP Racing Clutch P2 V70R Slave Clutch Suspension: Ohlins 8-way adjustable shocks (front) TME Spring set for Ohlins springs (front and rear) Rear Ohlins shocks need repair TME Strut Tower Brace IPD Swaybar, Front IPD HD Swaybar Links Chassis: New Heater Core and lines Fully replaced rear drive shaft with new center carrier bearing New fog lights GlowShift Oil Pressure Gauge Cooling Mist Methanol Gauge Armrest, Shift boot, Steering Wheel and e-brake boot all custom made to match seats Manual Ball Shifter with Shift pattern and Button IPD Mesh Black Gille 70 Series (no longer available from IPD) WRX-STI Front Lip Sound deadening installed under all panels and rear hatch. Wheels & Tires: Ronal R39 "Ferris" 18x8, powder coated Dark Grey with paint to match center caps (currently only have 1) Bridgestone Potenza Pole Position XL 235/40R-18 tires Brakes: Brembo/IPD Big Brake Kit, all fresh rubber, powder coated Bright Yellow. 330mm High Carbon Discs front Stainless Steel Brake Lines front and rear Porterfield R1-4 Carbon/Kevlar street compound pads I'm sure there's more and I'll add it as I remember. It seems like a lot, but also not that much...
  46. 1 point
    A couple years ago, someone who knows far more about audio equipment than I do told me that the SC-900/901 were designed for tape and that I should buy some cassette tapes. My memories of the sound quality from tape growing up in the 90 and 00s were pretty bad so I didn't really take it that seriously. Well about a month ago I was surfing ebay and decided I was gonna buy a tape and ended up with that Flecktones album on the right. I'm up to about 10 now lol. If you have a 901 and aren't using the tape deck, you're missing out. I guess we must have never had a decent tape deck when I was growing up in the 90s because this is amazing. Sounds absolutely fantastic on the stock V70 EQ curve and just slight adjustments to bass/treble as needed for a given tape. I've never had car audio that sounds so good with such little fuss.
  47. 1 point
    Trump is a loser, McConnell is evil imo. I'm not surprised he got away with the impeachment trial, I'm just amazed the no witness etc shit. McConnell is the devil.
  48. 1 point
    Steering wheel and fire extinguisher mounted. I also had paintless dent repair done to the whole car. For $400 all six panels look like glass. I cannot believe how good it looks. 23 years of dings and dents gone.
  49. 1 point
    Hi, just to clarify: I this correct?
  50. 1 point
    +1000000 internets for you I wouldn't be surprised if you don't get a knock on your door from somebody on this though FlGHT THE POWER