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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/23/2018 in all areas

  1. 6 points
    Old thread got archived (again) so here it is. link to old thread: http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/topic/171773-arts-242-build-thread/ New setup: B5234T3, bore and hone two sizes over Wiseco Forged pistons CX Racing forged H Beam rods Borg Warner S362 SX-E 8376 LMR 240/T5 engine mounts M90 Transmission 1300cc ID Injectors Custom Fuel Rail by JJFab MaxxECU engine management Drive by wire setup from a S60/V70 FlexFuel conversion Since there is a lot of pics, I'll just provide the link to the google album. https://photos.app.goo.gl/43LbzPGXvNmMHK7e6
  2. 6 points
  3. 4 points
    I spent some time over the weekend getting my STI BBS refinished before mounting up some new 225/45/17 Pilot Super Sports and installing everything on my wagon. The damage to this wheel from when I got hit last September is what prompted the refinish effort: Sand the rough parts down, fill with JB Weld, sand some more and it’s ready for primer: Then spray a few coats of primer: Next, a couple coats Duplicolor Wheel Coating and several coats of clear: Install new valve stems, mount the PSS, balance and they’re ready to go on the car: And the end result:
  4. 4 points
  5. 4 points
    2000km on the manual swap in the first 2 weeks
  6. 4 points
    Thanks Lucas! I’m pretty happy with how everything is coming along, but I wish I had swapped it sooner. In repair-related news, it’s done!! It’s raining here so better photos will have to wait. I also had the front end repainted while it was in the shop. All told, the entire drivers side of the car, hood and front bumper got painted and looks literally brand new. I’m beyond happy right now!
  7. 4 points
    Well, the weather is nicer and it’s time for an update on the body work: The damage is being repaired! I’m also having some other work done while it’s at the body shop. Edit: here’s a before to jog everyone’s memory:
  8. 3 points
    No picture but I bought a spare m56 lol. And a spare R bumper. If I was rich I feel like I would just keep buying them
  9. 3 points
    Looks pretty good I'd say.
  10. 3 points
    Hey guys, I'm not as active in this community as much any more but I've recently started messing with the 5-cylinders again and I need some help. I'm running a bone stock 95 850 N/A 2.5L, swapped into a '66 122S with a T5 trans and a MS3pro ECU. All is going well with the swap for the most part, but I'm in need of some help with tuning. I don't have a stock ignition map to go by as a starting point. Of course I can make one from scratch, but a base map sure would save me some time. I've done some searching, but haven't come up with much. Can anybody hook me up with an ignition map? I'll take a turbo map, I can just use the bottom half to get me going. A megasquirt map of any kind for a 5 cylinder would be incredible if any of you guys are running that. Pics for reference:
  11. 3 points
  12. 3 points
    Just ordered some new OEM E-code headlamp lenses and cornerlamps, too. And you're right, no pics because it never leaves the garage (just like yours).
  13. 2 points
    Thanks, best thing I've ever done to the car by a long shot! It was pretty cool to have the engine out just sitting on a pallet to work on. Changing the rear main seal was a bit harrowing, but no leaks yet! All told, it was 4 weeks beginning to end, but thankfully I bike to work :) The manual transmission brings such a giant change to the car's character, the 4 speed auto is an absolute dog in comparison with its asinine gear ratios. 8 years with that transmission was more than enough!
  14. 2 points
    M56 swap finally happened! Along with a basically new 16T, blue injectors, Vast Tuning R M4.4 manual tune, R clutch, release bearing, clutch fork ball seat, hydraulic engine mounts, rear main seal, rad hoses and expansion tank, heater core junction, turbo oil return gasket, silicone vacuum hoses, and 215/45 Firestone Indy 500 tires. All the goodies The first bit of progress on a Friday after work Day 2 was spent in frustration trying to break the axle nuts loose. Ended up buying a 36" 3/4 drive breaker bar to take care of that, after breaking a 24" bar. Day 3 saw some better results! Day 4 after work the shiny new turbs got installed Day 5 Day 6 Engine back in 1 week after removal! And then, in week 2 things slowed down a fair bit. The pedals I got seemed to be from an earlier model year which used a different brake light sensor and bracket, and the shifter ball seat turned out to be broken. With Mark's help, I got 1996 pedals and another shifter assembly later that week. Got the engine bay mostly sorted during that time Replaced the e-brake handle with one that didn't look and feel like garbage By the end of week 3 it was all back together, and (much to my surprise), it started up on the first try! Unfortunately the heater core junction was leaking like crazy, so I ordered a new one of those. Got the new tires and air filter installed while I waited for the junction Once the new junction was installed, everything was good to go and it was time to drive the shite out of it. I put over 2000km on it in the first two weeks! I barely drive that much in two months typically. Got the new tune and blue injectors installed after the first 800km. Happy. As. A. Clam.
  15. 2 points
    Zeds dead baby. Everyone check this shit out. The brakes charge an electric motor that goes apeshit out of the turns. You can hear it.
  16. 2 points
  17. 2 points
    Get a 960/S90 wheel and send it to redline to match the stock one. Here was mine right after I got it. Installation wasn't the best as you can tell, but that's because I had a US installer do it. Also if I did it all over again, I wouldn't have added padding, it's a little too soft
  18. 2 points
  19. 1 point
    Turboback>Downpipe>catback If you are trying to keep to a tight budget, the downpipe is the best bang for your buck if havent already gotten a tune. An upgraded dp will add power and some nice noise :)
  20. 1 point
    That head, part number 36050243, was first seen in S60R and V70R (RN engine) cars in 2004, went through 2007. For other S60's, it started in 2005 and ran through 2007 with these engines: B5204T5 (LPT), B5244T4, B5244T5 (HPT), B5254T2 (LPT), B5254T4 (HPT) and ran through 2008 in just the B5254T2 engines.The S80 had that head in 2005 and 2006 B5204T5, B5244T4 and B5254T2 engines.. That is from VIDA, but it was a qhick search, so it may also be on the RNC engines, but I didn't try there. I don't see the B5244T4 in the US but the B5204T5 in Europe was an LPT engine, and I suspect the B5244T4 was as well. Net result, look for a B5254T2 engine, will likely be cheaper than the HPT engines and it is the identical head. Cams are different, but that is all. - NUTS, this image was added and I don't know how to delete it. Ignore it, no file attached to it.
  21. 1 point
    Do you get the identification strings when connecting with my tool? Can you read DTC with my tool? Progress bar should show movement after a few minutes. Total read time should be around 30-40 minutes if I remember correctly. Modern computers may be full of software interrupting the reading, but this should result in lost connection, and not hang. Do NOT press Save EEPROM, use Dump EPROM. Remember to select 27C512 on the setup to get the full 64kB.
  22. 1 point
    I think I know what you're experiencing with the low-speed clacking noise while in gear. I went from a dual-mass flywheel to single-mass (like you have) several years ago and started experiencing that. All mounts and bushings were/are fresh and tight, but could not eliminate it. Kind of like a "trailer-hitch" effect, is I believe how lookforjoe described it, with a metallic clink. I finally discovered that there is just a small amount of rotational slack in the axle itself. Not sure if it's where the splines meet the gearbox, or if it's internal in the m56h itself. Either way, it's not going away. My m56h was already rebuilt two years ago, so it's just a part of life. I believe in my case the dual-mass flywheel was absorbing that slack; it only became noticeable when I converted to a SMFW.
  23. 1 point
    im not a fan of the m56h ratios that much either now that i've driven some newer slick 6speeds but i agree with you still - its the best mod for our cars (or the porsche bbk which is still my favorite) bike to work everyday! man that is awesome. i dream of that for me someday!
  24. 1 point
    Thanks for links, these should help. Will check it out and report back.
  25. 1 point
    I can't blame you for not wanting to damage it. Take a good look at the bottom side and see if there's anywhere you can unbolt it. See these links: http://volvopartslisle.com/assembly/24695623/Central-Electrical-Unit http://volvopartslisle.com/assembly/26163520/Electronic-Starter-Inhibitor-Immobilizer It seems it hooks on the bottom of the ECU box. It it held on at the top by a shear screw, so you will need a new one (or something else that threads in so it's replaceable) if you remove it.
  26. 1 point
    I'm heartbroken that the pictures are gone now
  27. 1 point
    Is Off Topic: The Thread dead? Man I used to come here every night and read y'all's funny AF comments.
  28. 1 point
  29. 1 point
    You don't have it quite right. The rears aren't struts, they are a spring and shock combo. Height is adjust with the spring perches, and there isn't a lot of adjustment. The shocks have adjustable length, but the adjustment is to make sure they are centered within the range of movement. They need to be adjusted so when the car is sitting level on the ground, the shock valve is in the center of the shock body. You don't have to be that exact though. You adjust it so it is sitting in the center 1/3 of the total movement. Sounds a little complicated, but isn't that bad. Make sure the shock won't bottom out or max out, otherwise you will damage the seals.
  30. 1 point
    That’s great feedback, thanks!
  31. 1 point
    I used blackfire wax brand and it put an incredible depth to my paint and has served excellent protection. It’s been on two years and I will redo it this year, not sure which brand I will go with this time. All though the pearl is less noticeable now.
  32. 1 point
    Engine bay came out great with the intake revamp. Nice to enjoy it all to it's fullest for a while! https://imgur.com/qhmTFEI https://imgur.com/FgJb5jX
  33. 1 point
    Funny I've always done it by just laying the cams in the head and then putting the cover on :)
  34. 1 point
    thanks for all the help guys. I'll probably get to the job in a couple months, I'm slowly gonna acquire the knowledge and parts and I think I'll get that $50 tool for the hell of it. I feel much more confident that I can pull it off, literally.
  35. 1 point
    2000R axles will not work with an M56 or M66
  36. 1 point
    IMO this is the hardest part of the job. I couldn't figure out what pry tool to use that would get in there and get any leverage on those cover tabs. And mine was really stuck. Ended up getting my slide-hammer out to pull straight up on those tabs. Obviously had to be careful, but that worked. No helicoils or serts needed for me when going back together; like Brad said, going slow is key.
  37. 1 point
    From what I remember I didn't need C clamps. It takes a while but you will want to hand tighten the bolts from the center outward. As soon as the first bolt in the center gets a bit of tension, put another one in. By the time you get all bolts installed, your first bolt in the middle will be loose and you can repeat the process. Do it by hand until you can't anymore, and then slowly repeat this process with a wrench until you get all bolts torqued to spec, moving from the center outward. When you pry the cover off in the beginning, use the tabs where the manifolds are. When you are standing in front of the car looking straight at the engine, you want zero left and right movement. All prying must done on the intake manifold side and exhaust manifold side, don't ever pry on the cam gear or distributor sides. Once you break the seal the cams will probably pop the cover off a bit due to the spring tension. Nothing to worry about there. As far as exhaust manifold gaskets, buy the c30 gasket. It's single piece and like 20 bucks cheaper than the old style 850 gaskets. All you have to do is get tin snips and remove a little tab on the corner to make it clear the waterpipe. I can dig up a pic for you if needed.
  38. 1 point
    o lawwwd dat color doe - purdy
  39. 1 point
    For the most part everything above about 4ms of load is going to be boost on this map.
  40. 1 point
    Mine is my daily which is now sitting at 301,000 miles on it. I don't know about your garage queens. I swapped the O2 sensor trying to solve a random issue when starting cold.
  41. 1 point
    This was just bought by Trius at Volvo 5-0 in LA. He bought it as a novelty, said he’s going to try and modify it to provide a reasonable range for daily usage. We’ll see!
  42. 1 point
    I take it you don't have a pic-n-pull yard near you? Would save you a lot of hassle if you had the connector for it too. I'm looking at a blk antenna switch right now; let me go ohm it out.. I have the black switch (out of S90 or 960; not sure which) along with the connector and pig-tails, so I'll mention the wire colors just as an FYI but don't necessarily assume they'll match the 850. Pins 1 and 6 are un-populated so can ignore those. The antenna switch is between pins 3 (red/blk) and 4 (red). Cut your antenna motor control wire that goes from the radio to the antenna motor and run the two wire ends to these pins. It's just a switch so polarity doesn't matter. Pins 2 and 5 are for the illumination bulb in the switch. Most likely the bulb is missing or burned out so.. But if you do want to hook this up, pin5 is black so hook that to a ground wire, and pin5 is brn/blk so splice that into the plus (+) wire from the rheostat; the one that feeds all the other switches. Polarity doesn't matter here either (unless you replace the bulb with an LED..) but I went with this polarity based on the wire colors.
  43. 1 point
    Agreed! A black walnut S/V70 wheel would also fit in really well (at least in a T5-R/850R)
  44. 1 point
    Best option is the S90 wheel, same as the european 850 wheel. Smaller diameter, better looking airbag and still matches.
  45. 1 point
    Definitely love it haha it sounds great! Interesting though, I thought it sounded a fair bit different from my car but it could just be the audio recording differences, and the IPD exhaust. In this video my car had a stock exhaust and IPD intake I've been rocking my old S70 T5 SE's wheel for just over a year now and it's just so so much better than the bus-like 850 steering wheel - it's at least 20mm smaller in diameter. Nicer spots for your thumbs to hold at 9 and 3 as well. Would recommend making the switch!
  46. 1 point
    It's not a myth. I went from a japapnafold to r manifold and they sound very different.
  47. 1 point
    You can wire up a resistor to fool the light. Hussein did that in his XR, I'm sure the details are floating around on here somewhere.
  48. 1 point
    Yep. Found a carcass to stick all the good stuff from my old V70R into/onto. The body is straight. The paint is 9/10, the clear is pealing in a few spots, but the paint is good. Nothing that can't be fixed. I'm going to treat this as the built thread so I'll have a place to track progress. I've found that if I don't have a build thread, I get a bit side tracked with the mods. A List of things I plan to do: 1 - Change the "black with dark grey inserts" seat and trim with the 'black and light grey inserts" from the old car so that the center console, shifter boot and steering wheel will match. On that note, all the current seats will be for sale soon. 2 - Also change out the upper trim to grey, since the black upper trim makes the car feel small IMO 3 - Install the larger fuel pump that I bought for the old car so that this one will not suffer from low fuel pressure above 4K RPM 4 - Install the Big Brake kit with the 330mm High Carbon disks in the front (which have quite the coating of rust on them from sitting), a new set of R rears calipers for the rear, and steel braided lines all around. 5 - Repair the one rear Ohlins shock that was damaged when removing them from the old car; install the set, along with the strut brace 6 - New hood liner to evict the rodents and their damage 7 - Deep clean the interior 8 - Install the Cat back system from the old car and get a new down pipe, since I sold the old one 9 - Polish up the headlights, or find a set of Jewels. not doing the AMBs again. Sold the old set 10 - Get the paint tended to, and do some... selective vinyl wrapping. Gotta make it mine, you know... 11 - Find and stop the oil leak on the new block. Not sure where it was coming from, but It just can't happen again 12 - Figure out the issue with the VVT. Used to get errors under hard acceleration from the VVT. Would like that to stop 13 - Confident that the M66C leak from the pass side was fixed by adding in a o-ring that was forgotten by the re-builders during assembly. The Trans did, however, boil over during the last trip to IPD. I'm hoping that was due to over filling, but I might flush and refill just to make sure 14 - Since it will not be a work car, Some subs in the back and a full update tot the audio system 15 - Install the old alarm to add security and remote start; not sure if I'll install the window modules, but I really like one touch up and down windows... 16 - The old Ronal R39 Ferris 18x8 are still hanging around. They will probably get refreshed and installed 17 - New fog lights. Old are cracked. Also install the STI lip, 'cause the front end looks naked without it 18 - Now wing on the car, so my Silver one will do. If I have to repaint the bumpers (they are pretty jacked up), I'll have the wing color matched as well 19 - Oil pressure gauge with Boost installed in custom pod below ashtray 20 - Meth Injection installed as well, with guage in pod 21 - New engine and trans with rebuilt bevel gear and correct passenger side axle installed 22 - Decide whether to refine the ARD Platinum Tune for better performance, or get a new tune 23 - Replace the windshield Probably more to come as I dig into the car, but this is a good place to start I'll add the car in the Garage and post pics there, but here's a few from the first session:
  49. 1 point
    This will be a build thread someday, but for now just enjoy some pictures of me at the Davis show with my new HRE wheels
  50. 1 point
    Just a quick update to make sure I don't lose track of things like this. Driver's side front caliper piston seized up so I replaced the caliper Untitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr Untitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr I finally replaced the heater core firewall coupling and got my heat working about a month after the manual swap. I had never replaced one of these before - they're a total pain in the ass to physically access when the engine is still hot! I had a little fun explaining what I was doing: Untitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr New clips on the engine side: Untitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr I also installed the eBay heater core from my 99 R to replace the leaking Behr one that was in there. It wasn't in perfect shape so I might end up replacing it with a Nissens down the road. Nissens adopted the same style crimped junction between the end tanks and fins as the ebay core to be more durable than the Behr/OEM ones. Untitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr Otherwise, this car continues to be an awesome daily driver that can handle anything winter throws its way! Untitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr