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  1. 6 points
  2. 5 points
  3. 4 points
    Thanks for the insight Hussein. I am currently using a 12AN drain from the turbo to the oil pan. Its works perfectly... but however Definetly won't work with the AG there like you said. I have a RNC prepped block so I am going to drill out and tap the RNC return since I need to replace my RN oil pan that has the drain bung welded on (hits the AG). Im going to install a 1/2NPT to 12AN and try to 45 or 90 off my turbo. For the DP it looks like a 90, 45, 90. The only have a left side exit exhaust and plan on keeping it that way, so won;t have any problems with heat around the surge tank (have it mounted in the same location you had yours). Pushing along... Made some homemade poly bushings for the diff cover since they are NLA: Got the rear subframe brackets I designed welded in & the VC mount.
  4. 4 points
    3M vinyl lettering finally came in yesterday , and it was a sunny warm day (for a change), so I got the lettering installed. Went easier than I was expecting - has a nice firm transfer sheet that keeps the lettering positioned 3M 'Dark Red' scotchcal film. Matches the Volvo red reasonably well I'm happy
  5. 3 points
  6. 2 points
    Turned an FCP warranty refund into a Powerflex order
  7. 2 points
    Looks awesome Corey, love the wheels/ride height combo.
  8. 2 points
    Nice work! Looking really good so far. I had many issues with turbo drainage/back flow with the larger frame turbo - the proximity to the AG really screws with drain flow - largely because it is typically aerated if you are running over stock RPM limits & the standard drain ID is way to small when you have to make a hard angle right at the flange. I made several with AN fittings, and they are just too bulky, in the end I made copper line, that worked great but only lasted a year or so. I also used an RNC-prepped block, so at some point I switched to the later drain port, and used the stock port as another vent. A large bore (over 5/8) , rigid pipe drain design would be ideal. Having the 'reservoir' helped allow for the aeration, vs. straight bore. with the DP, you definitely want the prop shaft & flange in place before you fabricate, since the DP has to tuck around it - this is the basic shape that worked for me through several iterations. I should strongle recommend adding a flex coupler up there, given the amount of torque you are placing on the drivetrain. With PB account gone, I lost most of my pics. Don't have any that show the flow around the prop shaft. The front CV will cook if you don't have a good air gap. I tried heat wrap on one version -didn't work out for me becuase I had the hood vent, so water was always soaking the header/DP & compromising the setup I also had to add a heat shield for the surge tank on mine, with the dual muffler setup the right muffler was too close to the tank
  9. 2 points
    Continuing to push on through COVID... Got the FWD stuff out in the rear and finalized my angle gear case and got it out to manufacturing (received the first part last Friday) ...
  10. 2 points
    This is pretty interesting and I have a few thoughts. After seeing Volvo's horrible track record with cast aluminum casings (P80 & P2 angle gear) I can't see something like this being able to withstand the amount of torque & power my setup makes and being able to reliability launch at full power on a prepped surface with slicks. The goal here is a 800hp+ launchable car with repeatability. In my opinion Volvo seems to cheap out on not only the quality of the castings of their aluminum housings but also the design and just make it barely strong enough to work but to keep it as light weight as possible (lots of webbing & thin walls). On a hard AWD launch due to the front lifting a majority of the torque is usually transferred through the rear meaning the rear needs to able to withstand full engine torque in 1st gear. I get angle gear nightmares thinking about 700-800nm engine torque being sent through that thing. In terms of raw strength and reliability I don't think the P80 Cast Iron 1165 diff casing coupled with an aftermarket LSD & 960 MKI axles can be beat. I am however not writing off the Haldex part of it. I think having Haldex would be awesome, but with a P80 rear diff. I have started putting together designs of a custom housing (with its own oil supply & adapter shaft) to adapt a GEN3 AOC to the P80 rear diff. I will pursue this further if the viscous coupler proves to be the next weak link in my drivetrain. A break down of the drive train so far... P2 23 Spline M58 (this combo has been proven to do 800-900bhp AWD and run 9 sec 1/4 mile) 23 Spline M56HK 4.00 gear set 23 Spline M56H Stronger 3rd gear from a p1 Quaife LSD My billet angle gear case design (1000nm engine tq in all gears / 4000nm output torque capable which is 2.66x stronger than volvos strongest AWD on the diesels which is 1500nm angle gear output capable & 4-5x stronger than the P80 & P2 unit) Stock viscous coupler with welded freewheel unit 1165 AWD rear diff housing (same as 960 1055/1065) coupled with TruTrac LSD & 27 spline adapter flanges & 960 MKI axles (thicker shaft & CVs over AWD axles, higher spline count)
  11. 2 points
    I just use XP compatibility mode on W10. 🤷‍♂️
  12. 2 points
    I'll just leave these here - modified Gen5 Haldex dropped into P80 in Europe - using VW Haldex controller
  13. 2 points
    Picked up a pair of Thiel CS.5's.
  14. 2 points
    Mike nailed it for LVP products, I was gonna say the same thing. You want to compare the thickness/depth of the wear layer to evaluate durability. I haven’t specified any snap together, but we use a lot of Shaw or Mannington/Amtico on my projects (multi-family residential/commercial)
  15. 2 points
    yeah, the company in china who makes it, makes it under a couple names. IIRC Shaw carpet bought the rights to the name/process, but it's made in china. The bottom has fallen out of the LVT/LVP category. It's now a race to the bottom for quality and price. Stick to the thicker, better stuff. if you plan to swing by the Bristol customer, send me a PM and I'll give you who to talk to and I'll call him in advance.
  16. 2 points
    Hi Greg, Yep, Persoanly, if I was looking for a flooring that isn't permeant I'd go with a RIGID CORE, CORTEX product. its a LVP and looks just like hardoood or some look like ceramic. You can get floating so the subfloor prep isn't as important. watch Bambo, there is vertical or horizontal grain, Vertical is less prone to denting, but I like horizontal better. If you want to go green, look at cork. Its been around since flooring was invented and renewable. in your world I sell to: Stanley Stephens JJ Haines L fishman They all should have something I might be able to help you out with. see if any are near you.
  17. 2 points
    Picked up this thing the other day
  18. 2 points
    Hutchinson (OES) hydraulic mount + OEM front mount Couple new vacuum check valves (PN 1275226, thanks @B Mac) and a whole bunch of black silicone vacuum line to replace all the vacuum lines in my engine bay. I still need to order a bunch of spring clamps, but I'm waiting to order those until I can measure the OD of each size silicone line. A SPDT relay, a few Weatherpack connectors, some spools of wire, and Weatherpack crimper & pin removal tool. Plus a couple of these stupid fuel line/fuel rail connectors and o-rings, a new bushing and bearing for my VC, and rear wheel bearing snap rings from Tasca What kind of laminate did you buy? I'm not in flooring, but I have some experience with different products from work (Architect)
  19. 2 points
    It was so much friggin work. Pressing out / burning out all of the bushings and then pressing in all of the new ones was an insane amount of work... not to mention cleaning up the whole thing and replacing everything. Should be worth it though, every single part is going to be brand new and replaced. More updates. Going with a true LSD in the rear. None of the stock G80 locker crap that breaks.
  20. 1 point
    My wires are to messy for my tastes at the plug, so this is going to be much appreciated. Probably install it the same night it comes in.
  21. 1 point
    Bought a car thing from John Van Cleave
  22. 1 point
    Relocated the car from my buddies place to my garage. I think this alone will get this car going. Access to it when ever I can, not that I didn't have that before, but I do find it easier to get to my place than my buds.
  23. 1 point
    There used to be a signal description list for each pin but I can't find it any more. Fortunately I've got my own copy: https://www.dropbox.com/s/z0avaurxii29vth/Motronic44-1.jpg?dl=0
  24. 1 point
    For anybody interested, in my 850 I've used the HFM-5 MAF and 2.5bar TMAP sensor from an ME7 (T6 XC90 as I have 2 breakers...). Conversion factor for the MAP sensor is below (figure is in PSI with atmospheric pressure subtracted). ((270.59 * (X / 255)) / 6.895) - 14.7 As for the HFM-5 MAF, on the 850 MAF it has 2 grounds (pwr gnd+sig gnd), 12v and signal whereas on the HFM-5 it has 1 ground, 12v, signal and 5v ref (+NTC bulb on certain sensors). Due to this I had to run a 5v feed to it from the ECU (to save extra wire routing I cut the original MAF power ground from the ECU socket and used that as my 5v ref), also after alot of messing I figured out there is a voltage offset in the ECU for the original MAF (I later found Boxman mention this in this thread actually - here) so for a simple solution I swapped the MAF signal pin with the accelerometer signal pin and then changed the bin to use the accelerometer ADC chan for the MAF instead of the original MAF one. Voltage to flow table I extracted from the T6 bin and used as-is (minus the additional 256 values due to higher resolution in ME7) and seems to work fine so far. This MAF should flow to around 1250kg/h-ish so should be fine for my needs at the moment (TD04HL-20T).
  25. 1 point
    Been doing some comparison on the 607 vs 608 binary as regards to what differs (although I know most accept now to use 608 and simply toggle the KONFIG bit for auto/manual trans, however unfortunately I started my dissassembly with 607 so cba to start over with 608 haha). Majority of the changes are slight differences in ROM vars/maps (as expected) (pastebin link here for all but a few of the changed vars I've tracked - they're based on var names in my IDA DB which with the exception of a few follow the DAMOS naming). However code wise I can't really see anything significant but the biggest (or rather commonly occuring, 45x) is in the autos when setting SCL 0xE012 (injector number to be triggered I believe?) it loops until SCL 0xE010 != 0xFF before continuing, whereas on the manuals it doesn't care if SCL 0xE010 is 0xFF before carrying on its merry way... Anyone know the significance of this? (Perhaps unrelated to auto/manual and simply a code revision that added/removed this?).
  26. 1 point
    Sorry, Links work now in 2020 Lowered prices and fixed dam links
  27. 1 point

    From the album: Dos S70

  28. 1 point
    That is seriously one good looking muffin, Corey! 😍 Also chalk me up as another impressed with P3s. A friend has a 2015 V60 T5 with the ole reliable 5 cyl and it's very nice.
  29. 1 point
    P3s are impressing me. My dad got an XC70 T6 (with the I6) and it's much quicker than I expected. Steering feel is completely numb though, makes my Saff V70R feel like a Miata.
  30. 1 point
    It's pretty quick. Love the sound it makes though. It's also a 2013 so it's got all the good stuff 2013 introduced, compression ratio, the updated AWD module, overboost etc.. I drove a 2012 and could tell a big difference between the two T5's. It only has 52k on it too. I love the car, it feels so new but with the ol' reliable 5 cylinder in it. But lately I have been thinking of moving up to an SPA S60. If I can afford it that is 🤣
  31. 1 point
    I will offer you -1 dollar for this item.
  32. 1 point
    Pew Pew stuff Cheaper to buy a new .556 upper right now than it is to buy enough .300 aac to have a decent couple hours at the range for myself and the misses. Dam hippies bought up all the ammo and guns because of Corona!
  33. 1 point
    Thought this may be of use to someone, I created a 'checksum' plugin with the TunerPro SDK that duplicates the shared lower/upper bank data when the bin is saved. This means that instead of having two items in TunerPro for any of these duplicated data/tables/etc, you simply just set it up with the lower bank address and it'll automatically be duplicated to the UB (& re checksummed) once you save the file. As the TunerPro SDK isn't redistributable I can only share the bin, however it's nothing special and just copies 0xEF2C - 0xFC16 to 0x1EF2C 0x1FC16 (607 bin, haven't checked the addresses for the 608 bin but can do if anyone needs) then re-calculates the checksum bytes. You just need to set it up in the xdf the same way as the current checksum plugin. Also uploaded the latest version of my IDA DB which I've done a load more work on, particularly adding cross references for indirectly addressed memory (RAM, URAM (added another segment for this which wasn't there before, its the upper 128 bytes of the CPU ram that can only be indirectly addressed due to the SFRs using the same addresses for direct addressing) & XRAM) (was a wild ride coming to grips with the indirect addressing in the 8051 CPU haha) and also setup structures for alot of the map tables to document them easier based on their configuration from the DAMOS (table layout, leading bytes, different eeprom/non eeprom headers, map table addresses, e.t.c.). Both the above can be found here
  34. 1 point
    Thanks Rob! They're even sexier at night when I can throw the quad high beams on, dumb bright. Jewel retro > ABMs everyday.
  35. 1 point
    Quick someone cut your car in thirds! Looks good, those headlights are sexy.
  36. 1 point
    Understood. Didn't mean to come off as rude but I've had a lot of backlash from people saying to use a Haldex rear over the P80 and I'm slightly fed up with it 😄 But I understand now. My VC is in very very good condition. Before I took everything out of the donor I did the test with a torque wrench and the rear wheels locked and it tested perfectly. Also zero sign of silicone leakage. Since I will be drag racing and roll racing in this car where runs only last 10 seconds or so Im not too concerned about the VC overheating. If this were a road racing / time attack / autocross car I could see it overheating quite frequently. Was this a 1030 or 1031 ring gear? You saying Volvo LSD makes me think 1030 as I believe they came way more frequently in those rears. If so the 1031 gear set (in the AWD 1165 rear casing) is much stronger & larger diameter than the 1030 gear set. Ive talked to a few people over the pond and have been told the 1031 gear sets are very strong and are used in drag racing quite frequently over there and they even swap them into American cars (which is funny cause most people swap American rears into cars with the 1031/1041/etc). There is even a guy with the 1165 AWD rear with 1031 gear set & quaife LSD that he is using in his 1000hp Audi UR Quattro. No where did I say I expected Volvo to give us bullet proof designs. I was simply stating a fact that their aluminum housings are weak. Welding the freewheel unit when it breaks will allow torque to continue to be transferred to the rear through the VC as when it breaks you loose all torque transfer to the rear. Not sure whats gonna happen braking wise, but there are plenty of other VC based AWD systems that don't use a FWM and the rear is pretty under braked anyway. Most likely the FWM was introduced in order to provide more stable breaking on ice... as from reading the volvo docs most of the design decisions of the system have been made around driving in snow / ice.
  37. 1 point
    Sorry - I wasn't implying it was in any way a better or stronger setup compared to your needs. Just a cool mod. Personally, I don't like the Haldex given the shitty power distribution Volvo/VW etc., set it up for, with no provision for close to 50/50 spilt. With my old wagon & VC I got 50/50 as soon as I got around 350AWHP. I think the weak link of the VC is the freewheel mechanism, at least in my experience, that was always the failure point. I guess if the VC leaks, then the loss of the silicone-based fluid would kill it. Perhaps it will overheat & cook when put through your power levels though. Time will tell on that one. Back in the 80's I did snap a ring gear (w/Volvo LSD) in two in my old 245TI w/a 50 shot - so it is possible that will fail for you before the housing ever would - I guess that depends on how you can preload the rear to prevent that slack on launch that also exploded my angle drive years ago... I am going to be using the VnDeVeer Haldex Controller with VW Haldex on my C30. With his controller, I can tailor the torque split anyway I want. We'll see how it goes, all I know is the setup with the Gen3 controller is still less than stellar, too much front spin. With my wagon, there was no drama, just go - I want that in the C30
  38. 1 point
    5 speed swap goodness for the E46.
  39. 1 point
  40. 1 point
    I wouldn't bother going back to oranges. Just tune the injector constant and the dead times to the greens. Greens flow approx. 413cc at 3bar. The injector constant for this should be 0.7656250. Then you will have to tune the dead times but for this you'll need a wideband O2 sensor. Some people have posted their dead times for greens on this thread, but they all differ for various reasons so be wary of using them. More info on tuning injectors here https://m44.fandom.com/wiki/Tuning_the_Injector_constant_and_dead_times Definitely get this sorted as the wrong fuelling can cause issues especially when the engine is under load
  41. 1 point
    I'm sure you all are enjoying quarantine. If you get a chance watch the Netflix show, "The Stranger." Halfway through the season a prominent character drives a black 850 T-5R wagon RHD (filmed in UK). I felt the show itself was pretty good and gripping but I know it may not be everyone's cup of tea. Sorry I can't give you episode numbers off the top of my head that feature the car.
  42. 1 point
    Kevin relax, we're still not voting for Bernie lol.
  43. 1 point
    Good point, and one I hadn’t thought of. Although I thought these cars actually have 3 circuits - the fronts are on their own independent circuits and the rears are on 1 combined circuit. New rear pads/rotors got installed this weekend. I went with Centric rotors and Bosch semi-metallic pads. I also replaced both parking brake cables and installed new parking brake shoes. Those will require some adjustment to be properly working, but I'm just happy the old cables are gone. The sheath had cracked in a couple spots on each cable, and consequently the cables were bound up and causing the shoes to drag on the drum.
  44. -2 points
    99’ V70R wagon for sale best offer. Black with tan interior. 159K. Timing belt @ 111k, head rebuilt @ 128k. New heater core and radiator. Rebuilt rear driveline @ 130k but now removed because it started to vibrate. ABS light is on and abs is non-functional. Nice interior and no dents on exterior. Located in 83422. Text me for pics.. Shane, two 08 31three 9zero46