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Showing content with the highest reputation since 01/20/2018 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    A couple weekends ago, I swapped the B5234T8, M66, and all associated parts from my old 99 R into this wagon. I started the work on Friday 1/19 and finished up on Wednesday, 1/24. Pulled the front subframe assembly from my 99 R into the shop and got my wagon ready for the swap: Untitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr Engine bay before. It was a mess, everything is covered in oil and PS fluid from a swollen, leaky reservoir Untitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr The engine is ready to come out: Untitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr Lift the car up and off the front subframe, then roll the subframe assembly out of the way: Untitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr "Old" and "new": Untitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr Clutch master installed: Untitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr Ran the hardline from the clutch master to the slave cylinder. I notched the airbox bracket to allow the line to fit without passing through the bracket. The OEM routing through the bracket makes it nearly impossible to remove the bracket without disconnecting the clutch line, which is a pain in the ass. Untitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr Disassemble the ECU box and pull apart the connectors to modify the CANBUS wiring Untitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr Depinned, cut, and crimped the TCM wires together. After crimping, I used some heat shrink to seal the joint up and ensure everything stays protected from the elements. Untitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr You should never use a solder joint on a car; a proper crimp joint is a much more reliable and durable connection. A solder joint can potentially crack due to the vibrations created by the engine and drivetrain. Of course, I only learned this after I soldered these wires on my old wagon Untitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr B5234T8/M66 bolted back up and in the engine bay Untitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr Got some help from my girlfriend replacing the spark plugs and installing the newer coil packs from the B5244T that came out of the car.Untitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr I lost the better part of two nights of work trying to figure out why my heater core connection was leaking. After many trials and tribulations, it turns out there was a small crack in the connection for the lower hose. I temporarily bypassed the heater core until I could order and install a new firewall coupling. Untitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr How it sat for the first attempt at starting. I was a little nervous because the engine had been sitting since September. I put a couple drops of oil in each of the cylinders, cranked it over by hand a few times, and thankfully it fired right up on the first try! Untitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr Center console is all buttoned up: Untitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr And a couple glamour shots of the finished engine bay: Untitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr Untitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr I still need to get a tune from Steveo, but I'm so happy to have a M66 in my life again! I'll update this post a little later with a full list of all the work I did during this project but I wanted to get all my photos uploaded and shared with you guys! Here's a list of the setup I installed for this project. Parts in bold are new to this car, other parts were installed on my 99 R. B5234T8 from my former 99 R with ~223,000 miles. Factory 18T w/ angle flange Forge CBV Snabb intake pipe w/ Spectre cone filter (I really should buy a higher quality filter...) 99 R downpipe w/ Bosch (OES) O2 sensors Rebuilt cylinder head BTCC style dual oil filler necks w/ IPD Viton filler cap seals OEM valve stem seals Bosch (OES) coil packs and OEM spark plugs "R" manifold + OEM MLS gasket from P1 Gates Racing timing belt Aisin (OES) water pump Xemodex ETM New OEM RMS Powerflex polyurethane upper engine and firewall mounts M66C (from 05 S40 T5 AWD) w/ 99 R angle gear OEM single mass flywheel, Sachs SD 693 clutch, OEM 850 R pressure plate P80 clutch master cylinder, new P80 clutch master to slave cylinder line, new P1 FTE (OE) slave cylinder P1 shifter and cables, R Design aluminum shift knob PDV Motorsports upgraded collar gear Colorado Driveshaft remanufactured 99 R driveshaft New OEM coolant reservoir/cap/hoses, new OEM water pipe hoses Rack Doctor remanufactured steering rack w/ inner tie rods and new OEM outer tie rods. New OEM 05+ power steering reservoir, new OEM 05+ suction hose, new OEM return hose, new OEM steering column u-joint. OEM sway bar with Energy Suspension polyurethane bushings and custom adjustable endlinks I spent a couple hours cleaning and degreasing the engine bay. I also installed a VW 99 adjustable wiper relay; which is one of my favorite convenience modifications for these cars.
  2. 4 points
    Started putting the B5234T8 and M66 from my 99 R in the Venetian Front subframe is close to ready to come out of the Venetian, should drop it out first thing tomorrow morning.
  3. 3 points
    I'm getting some definite bump steer in my 1998 VR due to it being so low. (IPD springs / Koni struts). Most of my experience is with Japanese cars where it is very common to install roll center adjusters between the knuckle and the LCA to correct the LCA angle after lowering a car. I did some searching, but was surprised to find that nobody seems to offer such a part for the P80. My control arms are at a pretty significant angle and I'm sure I could cure the bump steer with some roll center adjusters. Am I missing something? Or has nobody thought about doing these?
  4. 3 points
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  6. 3 points
    Thought I'd share my build of this car with you guys. A little history of why I wanted to buy this one: Many of you guys probably remember my 850R which I have shared with this community since 2003 until I had to crush it about 3yrs ago. I needed another fun project Volvo for all the parts I have hoarded over the years. John from this forum decided to sell his beloved white 98 T5 which he had owned since the early 2000's and did a manual swap. He took really good care of it and the body is about as minty as you can find on a P80. I also bought this car right after buying our first house with my wife Melissa. Since I have a detailing business - I had to spend 2 days cleaning up the paint. At this time I put on some 19's I have and upgraded the suspension more. I thought 18's would suit the car better... I started upgrading the interior here and fixed the damn broked firewall mounts. New wheels time! And some sticky rubber for the anticipated extra power. And here we are... winter 2018. Since this is a summer car only it is time to start upgrading the motor and finish the interior - at least thats the goal before it warms back up.
  7. 2 points
    Finally installed my boost gauge after having it sit around for nearly a year. I bought a 3D printed vent gauge pod from a Turbobricks member several months ago and the timing finally worked out to get it installed. Wiring (red and green wire seen on left) tied into the dimmer wire for the radio so it dims properly with the rest of the dash Tied into the existing rubber vacuum hose behind the gauge cluster with barbed fittings and a new hose to the boost gauge. Drilled through the plastic HVAC duct to route the vac hose and wires and snapped the 3D printed vent gauge pod into place Success!
  8. 2 points
    I hate the community around the car. It's just a bad as the local BMW community but in a sadder more try hard way. The BMW community here is a lot of E90 335i bro's. All doin' it for da gram. I got it in the middle of last year. I use it mainly for long work trips. It turns out an E36 M3 on coil-overs, 18's with R-Compounds, a Corbeau bucket seat and topped off with non functioning AC sucks on 6 hour drives.
  9. 2 points
    Valve cover is fully painted. 960 TB Started on some more cosmetic stuff while waiting for seals. Making a mesh grille out of a spare XC unit.
  10. 2 points
  11. 2 points
    Why broke?? Ive got just enough to maintain hockey shape now. I was really strong into my late 20s but then joints started arguing with me.
  12. 2 points
    The inside is probably intentionally kept coarse to increase flow. As opposed to what you'd intuitively think. a smooth surface actually increases flow-resistance / drag. A coarse, grainy surface causes a turbulent layer of air to form very close to the tube walls (like a mm thick), upon which the air in the center can glide much more easily. It acts a bit like the air cushion under a hovercraft. Without it, the central flow 'sticks' to the tube walls, creating extra drag. For the same reason golf-balls are made with dimples, to ensure the formation of such turbulent layer and to reduce drag as much as possible. As for the weight, the tubings inside the intercooler will be equipped with internal fins as well to increase heat transfer. I guess there's more material in there compared to the main radiator. I think both are actually a testament to the high quality of the DO88 intercooler.
  13. 2 points
    Started cleaning the block and taking it apart to replace all seals/o-rings. Got the R-mani and K 24 mounted. Also ported the head intake ports to match the intake mani but forgot to take a pic. And opened up my box of shiny cooling bits.
  14. 1 point
    Looky looky, here's another way you could do it: Not necessarily a bolt on, change your mind and bolt off later kind of solution, but just to get the creative juices flowing.
  15. 1 point
    Not there, but the light at the end of the tunnel is approaching. Huge thanks to @Tightmopedman9 for not blowing up my motor on a difficult tune. Time for a stronger wastegate.
  16. 1 point
    i have pm'd him hopefully he get back to me
  17. 1 point
  18. 1 point
    You have to contact Venderbroeck for that, he sells our mods.
  19. 1 point
    Last night I replaced my heater core and firewall coupling. The heater core itself is easy enough to do but replacing the firewall junction with a hot engine bay is not fun! Its really nice to have heat again after having bypassed it due to a cracked firewall coupling during my M66 swap a few weeks ago.
  20. 1 point
    eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee!!!!!!!!!! lol No new pics of mine I could find but here are a few: 2016 GTI, 4 Door, DSG, Autobahn, Performance Package. Oem 18" Rotary wheels with DWS tires, ECS 15mm front 20mm rear spacers, VWR lowering springs, OEM Clubsport center caps and valve stem caps lol, 034 Dogbone insert, OEM TT rear spring pads to keep the car level. Oem mud flaps. I completed the rest of all of the lights to LED. Audi 12v plug, dsg paddle extensions, euro light switch for the DRL and fog capability, OEM Clubsport S exhaust, Volvo License plate bracket!, JB4 Stage 1 tuning. CF mirror caps. Plans: intake and downpipe are a maybe with stage 2 tuning using the JB4, cf subtle front lip (actively looking for one) then install the cf rear spoiler lip i have and install the oem red hatch trim piece too!
  21. 1 point
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  24. 1 point
  25. 1 point
    Hmm, going to have to rain on your parade, sorry @gdog! :D The XDF is nothing more than a definition file, so it passively 'points' to values inside the BIN and allows you to interpret them. It's just a translator between BIN values and understandable text, if you will. As such, making changes in the XDF doesn't actually change the BIN. A HEX address is a way of pointing to a specific location in the file. So with this hex address in the XDF you're saying "Look at this specific location in the BIN file and tell me what numbers are there". For the IAT correction, the XDF points to the temperature axis that the BIN uses, so that you know at which temperatures your BIN would switch IAT Correction cells. You have now edited your interpreter-file (XDF) to merely **show** you the temperature axis that belongs to the 'LDR duty cycle correction, intake air temperature'-table. Unfortunately this doesn't change the BIN file and therefore doesn't change your tune. To get what you want, you'd have to physically alter the table at 0xCCFD - which is, as you say, tricky since we don't know if other parts of the tune use it - or make it use the table at 0xF934 physically inside the BIN. I do not know how to do the latter btw :P
  26. 1 point
    Yours was the one I had in mind when I mentioned I've only seen two people do this. I think you may have been the one that mentioned Nordlock washers as well, which is why I bought them. You did a really nice job on your car by the way. Thanks for posting this. I like to over do things, so I want to do this. I might find myself in a rogue auto x course one day. Can't be too careful
  27. 1 point
    I made a bracket that attaches to the compressor housing of my turbo and then made another bracket that mounts on the gearbox flange. I linked the two of them using a small rose joint that allowed articulation of the turbo for turbo/manifold expansion. My problem was that the turbo kept coming loose under track use. Nordlock washers fixed that and the brace helped reduce some of the load off the manifold studs. That said if you're using it for street use and you're not getting into sustained high EGTs then you should be fine using nordlock washers alone.
  28. 1 point
  29. 1 point
    Interested! This should be a great time to clean up the bay to match the exterior too.
  30. 1 point
    @ejenner2004 is ME7. None of this thread pertains to your car.
  31. 1 point
    In more recent history, I spent a lot of time and money since then on computer parts and building a couple gaming PCs. Also, I have been battling around school work and my crazy new internship with a race team (top tier NASCAR team, pretty damn cool) to find free time. Most of which is now consumed by my other project car, a 1978 Volvo 242 that my friends and I are swapping in a truly idiotic 1.6L engine from a 1992 Mazda Miata. Shameless plug for our YouTube series on that car: Amateur Hour Racing on YT ( https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCV2_Q4fzZ55A243hlKeVJlQ ). When I finally got some time to mess around one weekend, I installed a Snabb Intake Kit that I had sitting around. Tristan was kind enough to send me a slightly customized version to fit my new 3.5 inch MAF housing. I had noticed in my data logs that I was regularly hitting 4.9v on the stock housing and intake. So of course, I installed it and reflashed the ECU with my most recent tune. I had forgotten about (aka didn't check my notes that I always take) all of the things I had changed since my last flash. I think I had messed with a few limiters on the boost pressure (Maximum boost pressure reduction -- really should have changed that before setting my TCV and Load maps, and Vehicle Speed Threshold for boost reduction on gearbox signal -- same with this param). Long story short, I gave it too much juice and the boost shot way the f*** up faster than I could get out of the throttle. The car bucked hard and then *tick, tick, tick, tick, tick, tick*. Ouch. I am still kicking myself for how stupid I was being that day. So many lapses in judgement. This was the carnage that I removed 2 weekends later: These two rods are far too wiggly for my taste. Luckily, a friend from work lent me some garage space as long as I need it to tear apart the entire engine. My amazing roommates are also letting me borrow their cars until I get mine rebuilt. I have H-Beam Rods coming with a set of Glyco sputter bearings, Hastings rings, plus all the goodies to replace everything that has been in their relative locations for up to twenty years. I am going to hit the Pull a Part (if it'll stop raining on all my free days) and see if I can grab some N/A cams and an R manifold (It looks easier to remove in car. Am I crazy?) or Japanifold (if I'm lucky). It is a real shame I'm not upgrading the turbo while I have it off, but I have made a personal commitment to manual swapping before that. That's pretty much everything up to date. Thanks for sticking with me through that mind dump! I'll try to grab more pics and things as parts arrive and I get it going again. P.S. Yes, I'm going to be much more careful when I finally get running again. It seems like I'm going to have to rebuild my turbo control maps from scratch again. Anyone interested in a video series on anything I'm doing?
  32. 1 point
    This is a bit of a long read as it’s culminating about 12 months of work, but here goes: So last September, my S70 T5 SE developed a tick the morning that I had to move 150km away for a co-op job that started the next day. That tick turned into a knock, and after an unsuccessful visit to a mechanic with hundreds of dollars down the drain, I limped then towed the S70 home over Thanksgiving long weekend. That weekend, I picked up this red 850R sedan after looking at a few other (likely more reliable…) cars, but it was still the one that felt just right. I had seen a mint red 850R sedan a few years prior and the image of it was so stuck in my head that I could turn this R into one just like it. I was smitten. I also had snow tires and a roof rack with bike attachments from the S70, and a whole lot of transferable knowledge from working on the S70 which helped. I brought the 850 home the day after test driving it, cleaned up the interior and exterior, and drove it 150km back to my job. It had 227,742km when I bought it. The more I drove it, the more things I noticed were quite wrong with it. The steering wheel pulled abruptly left when braking, the brakes shuddered, it was misfiring at high load, the PCV was clogged, timing belt was 10 years old, sway bar links were clunky, trunk struts were blown, it wasn’t making full boost, MAF to turbo intake hose was falling apart, gas cap didn’t always unlock, antenna got stuck halfway raised, it needed an alignment, passenger side door check was completely cracked, etc… The poorly repainted front bumper and projector headlights didn’t help it aesthetically, either. What the hell did I get myself into? I got myself into a project daily driver, that's what Since then, I’ve been tackling these issues one-by-one, along with a few upgrades. Here’s the day I got the car Sadly, the Volans had to come off the day that I got it since I knew snow wasn’t too far away. Cleaned up the filthy engine bay Then, one of the HID bulbs burnt out so I switched to the stock headlights (the swap was inevitable…) A few weeks into ownership I replaced the PCV system, as I knew it was likely original and would wreak havoc if left unaddressed… Yep, that’s a bit overdue. Discovered the intake pipe was a goner Much better. Replaced pine needles with an actual cabin air filter, and a Midwest ABS module Had a big scare when I discovered I was losing coolant rapidly and had a milky residue all over the dipstick… I thought the head gasket was a goner, but it turned out to just be a leak from the coolant expansion tank hose connection to the thermostat, coupled with a big decrease in ambient temperature causing condensation on the dipstick. Did a combustion gas test in the coolant tank which showed no combustion gases, and haven’t had any similar symptoms since then. Then I went for some adventures in the snow Next up was the timing belt, water pump, idler and tensioner pulleys, and tensioner. This turned into a bit of an ordeal since I didn’t have all the proper tools to make it go smoothly, but in the end it worked out thanks to a lot of help via text from Mark (BlackT5). Finished it just in time to catch the ferry over to school for class the next day… Also sourced a used intake pipe from a 1998 S70 T5 so it’s not 100% correct, but did the trick Discovered the dizzy cap was a little overdue… And replaced the sway bar links with Lemforder ones Picked up a really nice hood from Mark and knew I wasn’t alone in this crazy little Volvo world hahaha Got it aligned, which actually unveiled some bigger issues - tie rods were totally shot, and even though the car then drove straight, it tramlined really badly after the alignment! Finally had time to detail it Then the day after, the antenna got stuck halfway up, and the gas tank leaked after a fill-up. Great! Discovered the true meaning of understeer at my first autocross Check out that body roll and mid-corner understeer, how yummy Dat squat on accel Weighed in at the track scale at a spritely 3190lbs with no spare tire and 1/2 tank of gas. Then finished the semester and moved back home for an 8 month co-op. Finally, I had time to work on this thing! Swapped out the awful 850R steering for my S70 T5 SE wheel Drove it 1100km without a hitch. Hit 234k at this point Blacked-out the grille, then got to the brakes! 302mm zimmerman rotors, StopTech Sport pads, and stainless hoses 2 new front calipers, and a new driver’s side rear caliper, which had a seized piston causing the pad to wear massively. The brake hard line was also seized to the caliper which required cutting it and reflaring for the new one. Next up, I pulled the lowering springs and 25mm rear sway bar off my S70 and installed those, along with new control arms, inner & outer tie rods, transmission torque mount, fuel return hose, vacuum tree seal, new-style red handle dipstick and dipstick tube. Then got pulled the bumper off and got to work on that, along with another alignment where I saw another 850R for the first time since that mint one a few years ago… Rear sway bar in… Alignment with a twin The damage to the bumper from previous owners was worse than anticipated… 3M Plastic bumper repair Lots of filler primer later… Paint! The look is finally complete! It’s finally looking just like that 850R that I had seen a few years ago! Then replaced the spark plugs and wires with the relatively new ones from my S70. Finally got rid of my high load misfire, gaps were about 0.048"… Hit up the local Cars & Coffee This EVO II stole the show Vancouver has pretty good taste in cars Went to another autocross Finally got a Thule fairing after looking for a good used one for years! And unveiled the shiny finish from beneath the rust of the exhaust tip Fresh oil pan and oil cooler line seals Picked up a T5-R shift knob to replace the S70 knob I had been using Then a factory SC-815 radio to finally replace the useless touchscreen And now it’s at 242k on my snow tires with perfos :D It’s been quite the adventure so far, and I still have lots to do, but it’s mostly the little things at this point. The antenna is still stuck, the fuel door solenoid has been disconnected so I don't have to manually pull it open, and I haven't yet replaced the fuel vent hose to prevent the leak. I also need to make a tow hook bracket for the license plate so I don't get a ticket for the current placement. There's probably more that I can't think of right now... That's alright, I'm still enjoying the car!
  33. 1 point
    I just can't believe nobody has done anything with this before. it would be a pretty simple piece to design and make for someone with the machinery to so so.
  34. 1 point
    Spent the day doing a little more polishing and decided on white for the rest of the color theme.
  35. 1 point
    I'm in the same position on my wagon. To the best of my knowledge, no one sells anything to adjust the roll center and bump steer on these cars. Correcting the angle of the lower control arm will fix the change in roll center. In addition to fixing the angle of the control arm, you'd want to adjust the location of the outer tie rod end by the same amount to maintain factory levels of bump steer. I'm working on a solution for my car using the early 850 aluminum control arms (that come with replaceable ball joints) but have yet to fabricate anything.
  36. 1 point
    I apologize if this is something very basic and stupid, but I am going through reading the M44 Wiki and trying to set up Tunerpro RT for the first time and can't even get past the checksum testing :( I downloaded HxD hex editor and tried viewing 608_rev6.bin, and even a few other bins, but the wiki says to browse to location 1FEFF to note the value but when searching the bins, I am only seeing a 1FEF0 line and absolutely no other lines that start with 1fef... what am I doing wrong?
  37. 1 point
    Sooo, at the end of the day I have one sweet M66 from 2005 XC70 136 KW D5, and another M66 with cracked body from 2005 V70 AWD, PN P9482341 They have identical gear packs, only different final gears. Looking forward to disassemble both and make a hybrid.
  38. 1 point
    No, it’s the same parameter of which bit 6 is set when the pump is activated and bit 7 also is set when wmi-pressure is detected. So: 01000000 when the pump is activated and 11000000 when pressure is detected.
  39. 1 point
    try and stick a magnet on it :P
  40. 1 point
    The main goal of the pressure switch and the software behind it is to protect your engine, not so much the wmi pump. It prevents switching to the more agressive mapset for wmi when your wmi system (pump) fails or when you run out of meth. The pump is protected from running dry by the the switch in the meth tank. There is also a parameter send in the logframe which indicates whether the de ECU has activated the pump and that pressure in the wmi system is detected or not.
  41. 1 point
    I have an old beat up axle nut that I spray painted white and use when hammering. Thread on part way, hammer, remove, back to tool box.
  42. 1 point
    Rspi never sold his yellow still has it market said it was price to high and he had to buy out his investor and is driving it until he finds buyer. You can try to get more money but honestly I don't think much more because it was not in pristine condition and had already been in an accident so that lessens the value. I mean the only difference between your car and a regular 850 is paint color wheels seats and a different Ecu you could ad that to any car.
  43. 1 point
  44. 1 point
    Bought a beater banjo so I don't have to take my Gibson everywhere anymore. This Zephyr Surplus place on ebay has some killer deals on factory reject instruments right now if anyone's shopping and doesn't mind spending a couple hours setting it up. And then I completely disassembled it LOL. Was absolutely unplayable out of the box.....not enough neck angle, the action was hopelessly high. Luckily banjos are super easy to deal with so I added this shim and was up and running in a half hour.
  45. 1 point
  46. 1 point
    One thing I hate about new headlights, and aftermarket headlights for our cars, is everybody is going plastic now. They scratch way too easily, and although they don't seem to yellow like the early ones did, they still eventually dull out. Glass is the way to go.
  47. 1 point
    Thanks for the add. I've owned a lot of Volvos but never one with computers, electronics, etc........until now. I've bought an 89 780 against my better judgement, just because I thought it should be saved from the disinterested previous owner who was destroying it. I'm going to need a lot of help.
  48. 1 point
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  50. 1 point
    hmmm a GT35R with a stock maf.... You’ll never get it right that way. You’ll need at least a 3.25” (inner diameter) maf. It certainly is possible to keep a turbo of this size in check with the normal load routines though, with a proper tune especially in combination with the LDR control boost mod of Maarten (Venderbroeck) Others (400hp+ even 500hp+ ) already have managed to do so. Overshoot with these slower spooling bigger turbo’s are often caused by a to high a load request in the region where the turbo is still busy spooling up. The turbo cannot meet this request yet, as a result the ECU reacts with a TCV duty cycle up to 100%. As a result the preset for the tcv algorithm is to far off to be able to adequately regulate boost the moment the turbo has come to full boost. You yust have to bring the load request in balance with what the turbo is able to deliver especially in the region where the turbo not has been able to spool. The earlier mentioned mod of Maarten helps with this.