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Showing content with the highest reputation since 10/22/2019 in all areas

  1. 6 points
  2. 3 points
    Finally finished up last night.. After getting it together and finding the thermostat housing was leaking like crazy. So pulled the ps pump yet again etc etc. After some gasket repair and couple more hours hoods on, axles nuts tight, and got to run it throught heat cycle. Was about midnight by the time I finished all in all took about 50 hours for full rn swap. Mind you was my first motor remove/replace ever and most my auto mechanical skills startes with this car in June. Was going ti throw on a 19t straight flange they have all over ebay but the 04 t9 motor came with a 60k mile 16t turbo. I'll drain oil tonight after few heat cycles add some more coolant and get some data logs for aaron. I ran wires from rear o2 to vvt solenoid since im not using any stock o2 and hust the wideband. Havent plugged to power solenoid yet til I get the correct tune. All in all wish i had taken more pics but im just glad it works lol. Thanks guys not this thread specifically but all the guys from this site inspired me and answered a lot of my ? Through reading problems of there own. Simply, Hussein, Sconeman, Aaron and few more all convinced me the volvo was the project for me...
  3. 3 points
    Thank you. I haven't had bad weather to really check it out yet. The kinds of driving where the AWD shone was on the Parkway I commute on - it's 2 lane greenway divided, and floods really badly on the edge of the fast lane, perfect conditions for telling if the AWD is doing it's job. In dry driving, it really makes a difference in higher speed ramp driving & long sweeping uphills where you can feel the rear pushing in a good way. I'm really happy with it. Annoying stuff is the software - I haven't got really agressive with it & you do have to remember to turn off the DSTC or you just get front wheel spin. Since I'm relying on Hilton for tuning, I really doubt I will ever go beyond the K16, but you never know.... The X1/9 will be fun, since it's gonna be around 220WHP in a chassis that weighs maybe 2000lbs :) The funky business with that is I have to raise & lower the car onto the drivetrain, no other way to install it.
  4. 3 points
    Just trying to avoid archiving, there are dozens of us here, DOZENS!
  5. 2 points
    AWD has been functional since June, using the Gen 3 controller, so I didn't go further with a Arduino controller. May still investigate that once I'm done with the X1/9 work. I'd add pics in the C30 thread I had, but it's archived & no one responded to my unlocking requests.
  6. 2 points
    Took her surfing in Malibu. Canyon roads are so nice with no traffic...
  7. 2 points
  8. 1 point
    Yes...just SRS warning light. The signal from crash sensor is on the same pin B3....but 70 series cluster use additional B5 and B15 pin for SRS light which are not used on 850 cluster. I'll take wiring diagrams,i allready printed ,to my car electician to see what he can say about it. If he can make SRS light to work on bulb check and if SRS system doesn't show a code for it after re-pinning....i'll install the cluster. Otherwise i'll sell it and buy odometer gears for original cluster.
  9. 1 point
    Ive been following your channel since june when i bought my 98 s70 t5 manual. I had put what I considered a fair amount of work into it until i saw some of these builds lol. Was tuned by Vast and was running wmi went really well for the stock 16t (comparatively). Was a granny owned 1 owner car that had never been abused and didn't want to be! Bottom end knock lead to RN swap in progress!! I was inspired by all of you...
  10. 1 point
    Your 2.0L T5 engine should have a shorter stroke than the 2.3 or 2.4L. I don't know how someone made that mistake of using NA components in the HPT block... not a good recipe for a long lasting engine. Although I have a B5244T2 in my 2000 R, I'm not too familiar with the part numbers of the rods and crank, or specific differences in these engines. I don't think they are the same as the B5244S being that it's a high pressure turbo engine. Looking at VIDA, the pistons are definitely different... part numbers will be different depending on the letter code. So, two of the same engine (B5244T2, for example) may have different pistons. From what I remember reading, one specific engine may use multiple PNs for pistons, it depends on the engine. All VIDA shows for the rods is PN 1270483, which only says -2001. Keep in mind, this diagram is for a 2000 V70R with a B5244T2, so I don't know the PN for the 44S or 04T3. As for the crankshaft, PN 8250382 for 44T2 -2001, and the 04T3 should use 8250381 (also shows -2001).
  11. 1 point
    Lol Clearanced it did you?.... Mines now in,running and on the road...
  12. 1 point
    We swapped an RN motor into the wife's '97 GLT. Only one of the lines came over the engine (Feed), so I just bent it around the VVT solenoid, and used tubing for the evap line. Then we just modded the cover to fit over it. Some guys have replaced the section of the line(s) that go over the engine with braided flex stuff. I swapped the thermostat housing and cover. We were still using the 850 coolant tank, and needed the vent hose.
  13. 1 point
    plenty here that have dealt with that ^ hopefully they chime in soon for you
  14. 1 point
    You need to scan this car with VIDA and see what faults are stored. You likely have a fault in one of the pedal position sensors or BCM fault that is preventing cruise control from working.
  15. 1 point
    It's not the windshield weather stripping, you have a leak somewhere else. First pour some water in the front sunroof drains and see if it comes out under the bottom of the car.
  16. 1 point
    too stock. Hop that thing up.
  17. 1 point
    Good point, and one I hadn’t thought of. Although I thought these cars actually have 3 circuits - the fronts are on their own independent circuits and the rears are on 1 combined circuit. New rear pads/rotors got installed this weekend. I went with Centric rotors and Bosch semi-metallic pads. I also replaced both parking brake cables and installed new parking brake shoes. Those will require some adjustment to be properly working, but I'm just happy the old cables are gone. The sheath had cracked in a couple spots on each cable, and consequently the cables were bound up and causing the shoes to drag on the drum.
  18. 1 point
    x2 SKF rear wheel bearings x2 parking brake cables x2 Centric vented rear rotors Bosch ceramic rear pads My ebay heatercore is leaking and I'd rather spend the extra money to get a Behr that'll last longer and have a lifetime warranty if it doesn't last that long.
  19. 1 point
    Its the radio. The tuner pot has worn out.
  20. 1 point
    This is so deep, man.
  21. 1 point
    When I was first learning to drive my grandpa took me out in his 71 mustang, in which I had a similar oh shit moment. Lost all braking power while at speed. He talked me through quickly downshifting, and while it wasn't a close call it certainly could have been if our luck was worse! Not trying to repeat that! I just ordered braided lines for my V70 from FCP as a result of this post. Thanks for the reminder!
  22. 1 point
    The ABS is part of how the braking system was designed so removal would be ill advised. Beside providing ABS functionality the unit also handles the EBD (Electronic Brakeforce Distribution) so you'd worsen the cars braking capabilities. Does the ABS not work at all or does it engage every single time you brake? You have a speedometer output so the system hasn't failed entirely. An age related failure point besides cold solder joints in the control unit is the main connector and related wiring. If any of the pins in the big connector are corroded / misaligned / have insufficient contact it will cause issues. Same of the connector itself does not seat properly - either not locking into position or not enough mounting pressure. Wiring to the pump unit itself can also fail in non obvious ways, for example the wire(s) may look fine but will fall apart once touched.
  23. 1 point
    Andy, headlights are the windows to the soul.
  24. 1 point
    i always respond to the PMs asking for unarchiving. feel free to PM me if you need anything further.
  25. 1 point
    708WHP now 🙂 Another roll race sunday. 165mph goal.
  26. 1 point
    Haha, more cool volvo electronics are in the works. Later though.. First the results of today's work. :) After asking around a bit, I decided to take off at least one piston ring to check the clearance. Mahle states that the rings have been pre gapped to the correct size so you should be able to install them. Measuring them, they came up fine for the 350-400 hp range I'm shooting for. Then came the time to line everything up to prepare for assembly: I weighed them again, and again 2 of the piston rod assemblies where ~1 gram lighter than the others. I put them in position 2 and 4. To install them, the big end bearing caps have to come off, and that turned out to be a bit of a challenge. After trying to pull them off for a while, to no avail, we had to come up with a different tactic. In the end I put some cloth over the handle of a hammer and inserted it through the big end. Then I screwed the big end bolts in leaving them slightly proud of the hole. After tapping the bolts lightly with a small hammer, the caps came free: You have to make sure you put the caps back on in the same orientation as they came off. Installing them rotated 180 degrees would be disastrous. Luckely the serial number is stamped on the same side on both the cap, and the conrod, so that can be used as a marker. Then we proceeded to install them into the block. I didn't take any photo's of the process, as we were concentrating on not making any mistakes. Especially the first piston took some trying to get it all right. In the end the process was as following: -With the block upright, put the crank at bdc. -Clean bearing races of the big end very thouroughly -Use oil to lubricate the piston, the bore, and the piston ring tool. Also wet the piston rings with oil. -Put piston into tool, and tighten the tool until the piston rings are compressed enough to fit in the bore. -Make sure the tool is square, and put it on top of the bore. -Make sure the piston is oriented correctly, with the arrow pointing to the timing belt side of the engine. -Use wooden handle of a hammer to gently tap the piston into the bore -Push the piston in far enough so the big end bearing can be installed (rotate crank to make a little more room if required). -Make sure the bearing races, and the backs of both bearings are spotless. -insert the bearing shells. Mine where marked at one side, I made sure that the marks of both the bearings where pointing at the timing belt side of the engine. -lubricate the top bearing shell, and push the conrod into position on the crank, with the crank again at bdc. -lubricate the bottom bearing shell, and insert it into the bearing cap. -place the bearing cap on the crank, completing the big end. Make sure it is oriented correctly with respect to the conrod. -Put some arp assembly grease on both the threads, and the bottom of the head of the arp 2000 bolts. -Screw the bolts in finger tight. -In my case (lacking a stretch meter) torque them down to 55 lb/ft, which is 75 nm. Rinse and repeat. We managed to get 3 pistons in today, the rest will follow later on: