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  1. 13 points
  2. 13 points
  3. 10 points
  4. 8 points
  5. 8 points
    Thanks man, I truly appreciate the kind words! The new project will be a pseudo-continuation of this one. Lots of parts will be exchanged between the 2 wagons and my plan will effectively continue but in a new chassis. Greg, Mike, thanks guys. I'm not going anywhere, just wanted to move onto a more unique color and cleaner chassis to start with. Thanks bro, I really appreciate the compliments. By the way, I'm dubbing this the "Lucas" mod - refers to when you replace your silver R with a 00 Venetian and then M66 swap it! See you Monday night brah! I'm very excited for the next few years. Friday evening I hopped a flight to Denver to visit with some friends and earlier this morning I bought a Venetian Red 2000 V70 R with the 2 tone interior and a bunch of cool options. My ultimate plan is to swap the engine, transmission, drivetrain, suspension, BBK, and misc. other mods from my 99 R into the 00 R. So in many ways my 99 R will live on in my new wagon. The road trip back to New York starts in the morning, so stay tuned!
  6. 8 points
    Time for an update. A few weeks back I hit a jeep, and further messed up the front of my car: Threw a stock headlight and ABM turn signal on while I assessed my options for fixing the damage. Ultimately, it needs a new headlight, turn signal, radiator core support, hood, and passenger fender to get back to the condition it was in prior the accident. On top of that, it desperatly needs new front and rear bumpers, a rust spot on the tailgate fixed, and a bunch of paint work on the passenger side to fix where it had been poorly repainted in the past (prior to my ownership) to be in good enough cosmetic shape that I'd be happy with it. So, with my dissatisfaction with the cosmetic shape of the car ever increasing, I did some quick math and realized just how much money it would take to get this wagon to a cosmetic state where'd I'd be proud of it again. I'd been contemplating buying another wagon to modify and move parts over to for the last 6 months to a year, and ultimately, it will end up costing less money and give me the opportunity to start fresh and avoid some stupid mistakes I'd made in the process of building this car. So sadly, this decision marks "the end" of this project. Odometer photo is from earlier this week: Here's a photo from the first night I brought it home (December 23, 2011) And from last weekend (May 7, 2017): So after five and a half years and over 70,000 miles, there have been plenty of ups and downs, and everything in between, but in the end, it's been a great car that is responsible for nearly everything I know about cars today. I'll miss it but I'm very excited for the future.
  7. 8 points
  8. 7 points
    It's been a while, (Staind, circa 2001 running through my head), didn't really lose interest in cars/the volvo lyfe, I started med school so my time perusing forums here is limited but I do miss the shenanigans and trolling. Picked this up a few weeks ago. Will update things/photos as they get done, bought this for a daily and so I can work on the 850 pretty regularly without worrying about not finishing things when I start them, and so I could sell my coral to my kid brother. 2006 Electric silver/Nordkap V70R M66 Kidding I also have about 100 pictures my father and I took throughout the weekend trip, once organized, I'll upload a link should anyone want to see them. Cannot say thank you enough to Tom, Nick at Re-volv, and celebrity mechanic Brandon for all the help with everything!
  9. 7 points
    Oh, and crossed this mark. For those wondering, it's lowered on H&R springs up front with Bilstein tourings and QA1s with the Kaplhenke setup (currently as high as it can go) in the rear.
  10. 7 points
    Pulled the old girl out and washed her last week and put her right back in the garage. Been busy playing with other cars. Untitled by KeysarPhoto, on Flickr The 142's current sisters. Untitled by KeysarPhoto, on Flickr
  11. 7 points
    Parts have been arriving for a while in preperation for the swap. I don't have a picture of everything ATM, but I'll get one up in a few days. In the meantime, I did a bit of work that I thought I'd share. I installed a stereo. Started with a DEH-80PRS, which is a dead head (no internal amp) audiophile quality head unit. I sound deadnened the entire car using a roofing material. Not that nasty tar based crap, but rather, Polyken 626-35 which is 34mil thick, foil faced, butyl rubber roofing compound. 75mil FatMat is about $2.09 per sqaure foot. The Polyken is $1.34 a square foot at the same thickness (doubled up). I put Infinity Kappa Perfect 6.1 components in the front door, Peerless 830946 6.5" mid-range drivers in the rear doors and a single 10" Infinity Kappa Perfect subwoofer. It takes quite a bit of cutting to get such a deep speaker in. I pulled apart the white wagon a while ago. I gave the two cars a bit of time to get to know each other... I put some wilwood brakes in the front. 12.39" 2 piece rotor, 6 piston dynalite calipers blah blah blah. Also, put 8610 Koni inserts in the TA Technix. What a difference! Jeez, I can't say it enough, but those Technix are crap! All in all, the re-valve was fairly easy. Just remove the gland nut (heat helps to melt the thread locker they used), and then lathe down the thickness of the gland nut. The Koni insert is just a touch taller than the Technix so you need a bit more room in the shock body. Custom gland nut tool, lol. And a crap paint job to finish it up! I picked up a M66 with a stripped output shaft for a song. Got her ready for the new power with a Quaife. And a picture of the car in question.
  12. 6 points
    I'll keep you posted on a date for the swap! It was good to see you this weekend Hussein. Obviously, I didn't bring the new wagon to Carlisle. Thanks Brandon! Thanks Mikey - it was great seeing you this weekend! Thanks Greg, the drive was fun, I enjoyed seeing the country. I wish I had a little bit more time to stop and sight see along the way, but such is life. Thanks Lucas. I crossed 190,000 miles on the drive back from Colorado. Thank you, and I agree that Saffron and Lazer are both very sharp colors. Sorry for the slow replies guys, it was a crazy week and I didn't have any free time to sit down in front of my computer. Got a really good photo of me with my 99 R at Carlisle yesterday. It was a fun weekend and felt good to be driving this car again - it's much more engaging to drive than the Venetian at the moment. Photo credit goes to Melvin ( @aldebaran) Thanks again Melvin!
  13. 6 points
    I'd like to say, I think it went well this year. Busier then ever, don't even think I got to talk to everyone.
  14. 6 points
    Sorry but.... 280HP on a 13T ? That seems a little unreachable :)
  15. 6 points
    Unrelated to my driveshaft shenanigans, one of the local photographers got a nice shot of my wagon on the way into Cars and Coffee this past Sunday morning:
  16. 5 points
    My first and last volvos.
  17. 5 points
  18. 5 points
    Ask and ye shall receive! DSC_1520.jpg by KeysarPhoto, on Flickr DSC_1514.jpg by KeysarPhoto, on Flickr DSC_1518.jpg by KeysarPhoto, on Flickr DSC_0350-Edit-Edit.jpg by KeysarPhoto, on Flickr DSC_0362.jpg by KeysarPhoto, on Flickr DSC_0354.jpg by KeysarPhoto, on Flickr DSC_0346.jpg by KeysarPhoto, on Flickr
  19. 5 points
    i predict the PENS vs CAPS series will be more entertaining than the cup
  20. 5 points
    Basically once FB got popular, the forum sloooooooowed down lol. Still prefer it here.
  21. 4 points
    Brand new Front Ohlins. Found them on eBay, no box & no canister brackets but definitely brand new! Never say Never!!!!
  22. 4 points
  23. 4 points
    last weekend after I went to a Volvo meet in my vw... Volvo first. vw second.
  24. 4 points
    Got an alignment and installed the new wheels over the weekend! Bremmer Kraft BR11. 18x8+45. with some 225/40/18 Contisports. We really love this setup. Completely transformed the appearance and drives better then I expected being 18". It already has a 10mm spacer in the rear, but I'm thinking about adding another 5mm or so all the way around to push the wheels a little more flush. Either way, here's some picture whoring. It has B&G springs on it currently, Thinking about switching to IPDs. Are they still the lowest springs out there without going to a coilover? The old Comets will be going on the V70R after getting new tires. Also got parked right next to a V70R during the install. It was running with the One Lap Of America event that was also going on at Tire Rack when we were there Saturday. I never got to meet the owner, but he was in a wheelchair and the car has full hand controls for the throttle and brake. Looks pretty neat. I also managed to hook the factory SC901 4x100 amplifier back up so that it works with the aftermarket Kenwood head unit. It took some finagling, and a couple of trys, but we got it working. It's still not a mind blowing sound system, but it sounds much more powerful and full then it did just running the speakers off of the stereo itself. I may still add a sub. We'll see. I'll detail the amp install if I can find my notes and diagrams..
  25. 4 points
    From yesterday at my parents place.
  26. 4 points
    that car is too hot for no AC bruh!
  27. 4 points
    Long time no update... I finally got around to putting some more work into the car, trying to get it ready for hitting the 1/4 this year. Last time I put the valve cover back together it was after taking it off 4 times in the span of a week and I didn't do the best job sealing it up, not to mention I used Permatex's anaerobic sealant (which I haven't had good luck with even when taking my time). I was losing about a quart every 800 miles, so I decided to take it back apart, do it right, and while I was in there add some free power. I measured 2 sets of cams from some heads I had in the shop and measured their lift. Intake - 30637410 - 8.38mm, 259° Exhaust - 8642712 - 9.04mm, 291° Duration was measured at .005", which I know isn't a standard anyone uses, so just take the measurements for the sake of comparison. One set was from an '04 R, the other from an '05 R and they turned out to be identical. I was hoping that the cams in my head were less aggressive, being that the head was originally from an '05 LPT engine, but they turned out to be the same. Not wanting to seal up the valve cover without doing anything performance related I decided to swap out my intake cam for an exhaust cam. In order to time the cam correctly I fabricated a new cam locking tool which would hold both cams in the same relative position to the Volvo 'base' position. I measured the peak lift on the intake cam relative to the base position for the tool and then rotated the exhaust cam to the same location and welded up a new locking tool. On the left is the angle from the base position to maximum lift on the intake cam, on the right is the exhaust cam in the intake cam's base position using the cam locking tool. Luckily my cam locking tool cam with two additional pieces that fit into the back of the cams, so I just welded one onto some 1/2" steel plate at the correct angle. Since I'm also controlling the VVT solenoids with M4.4 I swapped an intake VVT cam hub onto the exhaust cam. I measured the exhaust VVT hub as having 16.8º of range and the intake VVT hub at 28.3º. The VVT unit only advances the cam from its' base position, and knowing that I could now advance both cams almost 30º I decided to add 8º more static retard to the cams. With this much retard the engine had almost 0 compression until the VVT units pumped up. After some experimenting I decided that this was too much retard and wan't producing any more power so I set them back to their normal base position. At idle I fully advance both cams and the car idles very smoothly. I can actually reduce the idle speed to 700RPM without much degradation in idle quality as well. Based on the calibrated butt dyno V1.03 I measured a 18.437298445WHP increase in power from the cam and VVT hub swap. Seriously though, the difference was noticeable. My Aeromotive Stealth fuel pump died on me, which may have been due to the fuel filter element I was using. The fuel filter I bought only has cellulose filter media available which is not compatible with E85, so the filter had become very clogged, which I think led to the early demise of the pump. I'm currently looking for a 10 micron stainless element fuel filter, but haven't had much luck. I replaced the Aermotive with a Walbro 460LPH in tank and redid the wiring to 12AWG. I also redid the fuel pump wiring entry into the tank with a purpose made fuel cell bulkhead fitting. I used a 6 pin Deutsch DT series connector and split the power wires into four at the connector to negate any contact resistance. I know it was overkill, but I had a problem with melting the wiring on the Aeromotive and I didn't want to deal with that again. I'm working on adding the SAS pump to my crankcase breather system, turning on above a set load threshold and sucking through the catch can. I'm not sure it will do anything beneficial, but it won't take much work to implement so I figured why not. Next up is an intake manifold which I should be done fabricating in a week or so.
  28. 4 points
    because I turn left now, good luck everyone.
  29. 4 points
    Nice shot, why you holding everyone up?
  30. 4 points
    Thanks, but it's a MK1 Ford LOTUS Cortina. :) Sure! Untitled by KeysarPhoto, on Flickr Untitled by KeysarPhoto, on Flickr DSC_9507.jpg by KeysarPhoto, on Flickr 17x8.5 and 17x9.5 CCW Classic Race 3pc wheels.
  31. 4 points
  32. 4 points
    Started on the 110k service work - t/belt, tensioner, idler, water pump, serpentine belts, etc. Doing all the hoses with do88 kit while I have it all apart. Found a nest behind the battery tray and.... dropped the trans Pressing on the new bearings 6843481 L&R axles seals, 32008-XQ bearings x2, Subaru gasket sealant 004403007 WaveTrac in, all back together. New slave and vent tube, with shock load limiter removed. Spec Stage III + rear main Spec Flywheel in CV boots K16, injectors going in tomorrow, then putting it all back together.
  33. 3 points
    The R always felt a little sluggish compared to the C70. I just chalked it up to the AWD and weight, but my OCD wouldn't let me leave it alone. I remembered that when I put everything together the last time, I couldn't find my IPD cam gear adjustment tool, so I just pined everything up how it came apart and figured I would deal with it later. Well later has now been over a year, and I finally found my the cam tool. I checked where the cams were set and holy crap, no wonder it felt anemic! The intake cam was 1 degree advanced, and the exhaust cam was almost 5 degrees retarded!! I reset them both to +2 deg advanced as a baseline from reading through some other threads here and on MVS. There wasn't a ton of good info as to where they should have been set. Either way, +2 deg for both cams really made a huge difference. The surge of power that I'm used to around 3k rpm in the C70 was now actually noticeable in the R. I drove it to work for a day and felt that it could still use a bit more adjustment. I played with it some more last night and settled on +2 advanced on the exhaust cam and right at zero deg advanced/retarded for the intake cam. It really feels like it's running correctly now. The only issue is that it feels like it surges slightly and cuts boost back a little bit at WOT in the higher RPMs. Might be due to my restrictive home made exhaust. Guess we'll figure that out when it gets changed this fall. For now, it's exciting to drive again!
  34. 3 points
    First thing I do when I get in it is turn off the traction control.
  35. 3 points
    Made the first it's of many trips to the shop last night as Matt ( @babyclaude) was finishing up replacing a delta link bushing on his S70.
  36. 3 points
  37. 3 points
    Current news is that while the Elevate tune delivers in terms of nice power upgrade with the K16 hardware, drivability with the tune sucks ass. Cold start is a pita - car will stall / not start for a couple tries. Stumbles, hesitates, jerky throttle response until warm. Subsequent starts mostly OK, but some uneven behavior. On the road, holding a steady light throttle when crusing for example, gives a 'surge' that is really annoying. Progressive throttle results in boost which will suddenly drop out unless you continue to add more throttle. Boost transitions can be jerky. Overall, it really makes driving the car annoying. I would NEVER recommend Elevate afer this. He basically said it must be mechanical as software doesn't change. Not going down that road, it's akin to ARD's claims to ppl that the issues developed after using his tunes must be their hardware, not his tuning (talking about setups where the hardware is all known good, new parts, maintained no vac leaks, worn parts, etc., exacerbated by higher power levels). Paid for a Hilton tune on Friday, so that process is now underway. Very annoyed that I threw money away on the Elevate tune. I'll be driving the X1/9 to Carlisle, it's all flat black for now, after Carlisle, I'll hopefully have time top strip it back, fix the final imperations/details & prime it properly in prep for top coat in Volvo Passion Red 612
  38. 3 points
  39. 3 points
    Leveling is only in the rear, that you're going to sell/throw away so it doesn't matter which of the two you buy. Front end is the same for 850s and all S/V/C70s, there shouldn't be a difference.
  40. 3 points
    Your car has come a very long way. Have always love the look of it. Find another ME7 P80 R... swap all your bits into it. That's my vote.
  41. 3 points
    Fitted a new steering wheel to the T-5R
  42. 3 points
    Painted my widest non track wheels. Went with bronze over black base coat. Looks ok. Better than the old color. mounted some Conti DW 245-40-17. They ride nice. Quiet.
  43. 3 points
    I also got some new wheels. Wrapped in some Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetric 2's, they're stock equipment on the Ford Focus RS in 235/45R18 so I was able to pick up a never mounted set on CL for $250. They're not the most aggressive street tire, but the ride is comfortable, the slip predictable and the grip good, and for the price I couldn't say no. I had to decommission my TDRs, which was unfortunate since I spent 15+ hours prepping and fixing them, and $180 on paint. I realized every wheel had a significant hop in it, even the wheel which I had only been running for 1 year and had never curbed. Also, I found 3 cracks on the inner rim on one wheel after painting and had already fixed two cracked spokes on another, only for them to re-break just a week after putting them on. I guess that's the price you pay for running 17lb wheels... I'm going to try and re-fix the spokes and keep them for some track days.
  44. 3 points
    A sloppy lap, And some fun "scaring" Emiel in another lap,
  45. 3 points
    Thank you Greg. Visited the racetrack twice with the S60. First time was to get familiar with the car. An afternoon session at the TT-Circuit, Assen the Netherlands. Went alone and did some 30 laps. Had an issue with a wheel coming loose and the brakes were warped after the session. The second trip was together with Emiel and the wifes. We went to that great Belgian racetrack called Spa Francorchamps. Car was fitted with new discs and brake pads after a lot of hassle because Volvocars didn't have brakes in stock.. We had great fun and the car did reasonably well. Used all Volvo-Polestar provided settings for tire pressure and suspension but I had a bit of a hard time getting used to the somewhat understeering behaviour of the car. Power wise it was a blast.
  46. 3 points
  47. 3 points
    With a manual boost controller on stock turbo you should get full boost on the stall... Not encouraging such things just reporting past behavior and results :-P
  48. 3 points
  49. 3 points
  50. 3 points
    Well, gave her a wash and took her to the XXX Swedish Drive-In last weekend to visit with some friends. As usual, I didn't take a lot of pics, but I did take some: