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Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/26/2017 in all areas

  1. 8 points
    What's up guys, I've been a member on here for over 10 years (thanks Eric for the thread reminder :) and figured I'd do a brief history of the car that got me into volvos and also what I currently have. My wife thinks I have a problem but she wasn't around when I was really into the hobby. When I would wash the car once a week and constantly be tinkering with the car. My first volvo was actually a grey 240 turbo wagon. This wasn't the car that got me started with Volvos but I should have known it would be a precursor. This was the family car when I was younger that got passed on to me when I finally got my license. As with any young kid, all I cared about was having a loud sound system, and that's what it got. I spent $1000 I had saved up when I was 16 and put (2) 12'' Pioneer subs in along with the other necessary goodies. Needless to say it was quite fun and quite the joke with my friends, rolling around in a volvo station wagon, rattling the windows off lol. I had that car for about 2 years and then moved on to something else. I won't say because I probably should have stuck with the volvo (cough cough nissan maxima) When it was time to get a new car after that, I started looking around for something at European cars. Was looking at Jettas at the time (I wasn't that cool even though I was trying to be) but a family friend had a volvo shop where he also sold volvos. After some negotiation, I walked away with a red 1997 850 T5. I didn't know how cool they were at the time, but I'd soon find out. Being a forum junkie, I immediately started searching the forums. I landed on Swedespeed first and started reading lots of threads. Then I came across VS and my mind was opened. So many possibilities. You could pegs on an 850? no way! HIDs! wow! IPD is so cool! I'm going to search eurosport tuning and dream about all the cool things I can do to my volvo. These were all things going on in my head and what all the cool volvo kids at the time were doing lol. I eventually did the standard VS mods and loved that car everyday. How bout some pictures... After the standard PEGS and Koni's with IPD lowering springs I ended up getting the car completely repainted along with R bumper. Also painted the pegs black along with the inner bowls red. Did a couple of shows with my buddy Ben However, all things must come to an end. The clear coat on the paint job failed (was a partial home job and we found out later there was a defect in the clear coat used as it also failed on another car that was painted at the same time). Once that happened, the car sat for a couple years with sporadic use. I ended up driving several different cars that are not worth mentioning. I also got married during this time and had a daughter. I finally had to let my first love go. A friend of mine that had done a lot of work and that helped paint the car ended up taking it from me. I gave him a good deal as I thought it would be cool to see it stay in the "family" (he's good friends with Ben who has the black wagon) Leaving on the trailer (wasn't registered at the time) This is not the end of the story however. Knowing I was going to get rid of my sedan, I had to find a replacement so I wouldn't be volvoless (for shame). I had slowly been working on my wife about volvos and showing her pictures of cool wagons, I finally convinced her. I searched for a while and wasn't really set on a wagon but a very nice 855R wagon came up for sale locally that I couldn't pass up. And it also happened to be...RED and with Charcoal interior. SCORE! 145k miles. Well taken care of even if it needed some maintenance and there were signs the valve stems seals needed to be replaced. Last month I did a full stage 0 including valve stem seals, all hoses, ignition system, heater core, etc. This thing runs like a top and the wife is super happy with it. Gotta say she looks quite hot driving it around lol. Not to be without a volvo myself, I started looked for an 850R. I started looking locally but began to expand my search to southern california. I found one in SoCal that I almost pulled the trigger on but during that time one of our very own decided he wanted to liquidate his 850R as he wanted to get something a bit less cool and slightly more ricer-ish (jk Gary). Gary (yellow95) posted his car for sale on the fb group and it was exactly what I had been looking for. Having been on the forum for quite some time I knew of Gary's history with cars and the care he took with them. A couple of phone calls later and a talk with the wife and I had sent a deposit over to Gary. I actually didn't even ask for updated pictures cause I knew how solid it was. I sent the remaining payment over and scheduled shipping from GA to CA (for anyone interested, I was able to get it done for $1000 total). It was here the next week. And what do you know...It's RED with Charcoal interior :) Getting loaded up And here it is after I cleaned it up I gotta say I'm really happy with the experience of working with Gary. Solid dude and very honest. Wouldn't hesitate to buy another car from him. I'm also really happy with where both cars are at, at the moment. Neither need anything and my wife is growing more and more fond of the wagon. She actually mentioned the other day shes been getting compliments on the car as she drives it around with the kids. I guess I won't be leaving VS anytime soon :). Thanks for all the support over the years.
  2. 8 points
    Working on a few upgrades for the XC70
  3. 7 points
    Sorry I've been away so long, but rest assured I've been working on cars and even Jim's S90R Volvo project - don't disown me quite yet. :) So I found a 2008 XJ8L with 27k miles and did a few things... 22x8.5 Rosso Affinity + matching full sized spare 380mm/376mm big brake upgrade from 2012 XFR 45mm lowering via dealer software on factory air Carbon fiber covering all interior wood Mercedes pedals Backup camera and iPhone nav interrupt installed I've been working on the Celica also if you're interested in seeing progress. Here's one, but I have a few more:
  4. 7 points
  5. 7 points
  6. 6 points
    Since the death of my poor S70 on the way to what was supposed to be my first autocross event, I've been wanting to autocross the 850R that I bought as its replacement. The date finally came where I had time to get to the track in and amongst all my tests and assignments at school. The 850R is stock aside from an IPD intake, so I got to experience first-hand the glorious understeer when pushing the car hard. Despite the never-ending tire squeal, I had a ton of fun and I can't wait to get the 25mm rear sway bar and lowering springs off of my S70 and see the difference they make!!
  7. 6 points
  8. 6 points
  9. 6 points
    What the fucking fuck? Its Erik with a "k" god damn it.
  10. 6 points
    Dig this.. Literally .. We wanted to repave a part next to the house where rain water didn't move. After heavy rain a larger puddle of water kept standing against the house for longer time. Don't have picture of standing water before the pavement went out but this is what it looked like, (left red stone) After taking the stones out water still didn't move that fast. The moss on the wall stones shows where the water often kept standing. There was a drain but it was blocked. Tested the drain by pushing a running hose in the drain pipe but after about 5 ft it stopped. Digging at the spot showed a brick drain collector with 3 pipes. One where we came from, one blocked and one leading to the back of the house. We were under the impression that rain water drainage runs to the front of the house to the street because this is how it has been done over the years. There is a ditch at the back of the house but it is 68 yard from the drain point.. Maybe there was more to it so we put the hose in the pipe leading to the back of the house but after 12 yard it stopped. Measuring the distance above grond with some assumptions led us to an apple tree... Hm.. Maybe a root growing through the pipe so after searching for the pipe with a metal pin at the collector point and again near the tree revealed something present near the tree at the same depth. About a foot and a half. Digging at the spot didn't turn up a pipe but debris.. Brick.. Lots of it. But no pipe. After more digging and removing brick, plastered brick and more brick we ended up in what appeared to be an old layered brick septic tank.. But no pipe.. Being fed up I called a plumber who I knew had a very long distance high pressure cleaning device with a transmitter. Just the right gadget for the job. Two days later the guy arrived and rolled out the equipment. A couple of minutes later the cleaner went underground and a lot of noise could be heard coming from under ground going in the direction of the septic tank after which it stopped.. briefly. The noise went on going underneath the terras in to the lawn behind the house after which it stopped again. The plumber said that it had entered some sort of well or another collector point but it was underneath the lawn. Using the very sophisticated receiver the plumber pinpointed the spot where the transmitter in the cleaner tip had stopped. Using the metal pin again there appeared to be something there and some more pinching gave us a contour which looked like a rectangular shaped box or lid so we started digging. (In the immaculate lawn..) Turned out to be another collector point with 4 pipes one pointing to the ditch. So maybe the drain was running to the ditch after all.. Next the high pressure cleaner was put in the pipe leading to the ditch and it went on for another 23 yard after which it stopped again. Pinpointing the location gave us a direction so we searched the ditch for a drain exit but couldn't find anything. One more try with the cleaner only progressed a couple of yard but that was it. After the plumber left I decided to get the mini digger and dig up the pipe at both locations which revealed that the angle of how the the pipe was running from the house was different from assumed. Another search revealed the drain exit in the ditch but turned out to be a couple of yards from the previous assumed location. The drain exit was overgrown and partially blocked with root/grass whatever stuff. In an attempt to clean the pipe a lot of rubbish came out.. Using the water hose again in the opposite direction from ditch to house it appears the drain was blocked little over 5 yard from the ditch at which point it appeared that one of the poles of a nearby fence was right on top of where the pipe ran. I decided to dig up the pipe between the two block points, about 8 yard, only to find an old cracked fence pole running right through the pipe and a huge tree root running in to the pipe. The only way to solve the issue was to install a new piece of pipe, Finding the larger brick chunks which are the remainders of an old pig stable made me curious.. Investigating the history of the house already gave me some knowledge but I hadn't expected to find old pieces of the stable. A bit of history, December 1944 our RAF friend made some nice aerial photographs and a couple of hours searching the photo's revealed the situation of the house at the time, The stable can clearly be seen at the bottom. This is Apple Maps 2012 data, A already had some pictures of the house dating somewhere '70's, And also drawing made in 1974 right before the stable was demolished. Some digging in the week before to map the sewage system outside the house already revealed a foundation of one of the main poles of the former stable. Which exactly corresponded with the location shown on the old drawing so I started searching for the foundation of the pole next to it to reveal this, So there had to be more.. and there was, This is the corner as shown in the picture. Turns out the foundation of the front and the side up to the big doors is still present..
  11. 5 points
    2010 2017 Doug and his T-5r are long gone. Hussein parted the beast and is now driving a C30. also Kevin is still enjoying his rambone Vs is still great... just not much going on at the moment.
  12. 5 points
    Here's a quick comparison of my QA1s with kaplhenke vs stock V70R height. This is lower than I'll be keeping it, just an initial height.
  13. 5 points
    Extended my trip in NH another day for the 'blizzard'!
  14. 4 points
    Friends V40 T4 was on dyno on his similar darton whiteblock b4194t2 engine with BW S476 turbo. 3.2bar boost 2.5bar exhaust backpressure. Goal is 340km/h on standing mile this summers. ;)
  15. 4 points
    Pulled the old girl out and washed her last week and put her right back in the garage. Been busy playing with other cars. Untitled by KeysarPhoto, on Flickr The 142's current sisters. Untitled by KeysarPhoto, on Flickr
  16. 4 points
    Dang, I've been misinformed for a while about that. Thanks for the clarification. That timing map is much too advanced at higher load. With your setup you should be running about 7º timing at full load/3800RPM and tapering up to maybe 11º at redline. Without having feedback on knock you won't know what's too advanced though. Sorry to keep shit talking, but you need to ditch Turbo Tuner. It is a dumbed down GUI overlay of some very basic M4.4 maps and doesn't give you a complete picture of the parameters you need to control to tune properly. The hardware inside the ECU is a Moates Ostrich 2.0 EEPROM emulator which is directly compatible with TunerPro. You can make the switch from the Turbo Tuner interface and switch to TunerPro, using the files provided in the M4.4 wikia. You'll be able to actively datalog and record, and monitor parameters like knock count and you can hook up your wideband so that you can datalog it's output along with everything else. VVT control can be as simple as a RPM window trigger, but I wrote some code which uses the pre-heaters for the O2 sensors to control the cams independently, so you don't need any additional hardware to control the cams.
  17. 4 points
    I wanted to share with you my recent project: a fully custom flat bottom steering wheel for the R (but could work on other Volvoes as well) I partnered with Polish based company named RedlineGoods to build this wheel for me (I was born in Poland and am fluent in the language so that sweetened the relationship). Essentially, I specified what I wanted: thicker than OEM, flat-bottom, half-perforated and half smooth leather wheel, with blue 12 o'clock mark and contrast blue stitching. Process: 1. I bought a used and beat-up wheel on eBay ($80) 2. Sent the wheel out to Poland ($45) 3. This being their first R wheel, the fact that their designer got sick and that I wanted a lot of custom work, the process took 3.5 months, but typically should take less than two. I paid a good amount of $ for it since it's never been done by them and I wanted to pave the way. 4. I communicated throughout the process with the makers who were very supportive and responsive. I sent them photos of wheels that I like (CLA AMG, Audi RS etc.) and we came up with the design you see below. Impressions: - AMAZING WORKMANSHIP and material quality - PERFECT FIT - Car feels more like a race car! - I can't stop driving the car and sitting behind the wheel! - I will have more impressions after next week's Track Weekend at NJMP Do you want one? - The company and I are talking about a significant discount if enough people were interested. I cross posted in on SS (link here) - For what you see above (flat bottom etc.) if we gathered over 10 people, the price would be around $525 shipped. It would be a bit less without flat bottom and 12 o'clock mark. You could also have one that's not as thick etc. Keep in mind that you'd have to ship our your own wheel - If you are interested in one, reply in this thread and specify what type you'd be interested in. - This company can customize any steering wheel so don't limit yourself to just the R; spread the word I'm not gaining anything from it - just wanted to spread the word - If you want one ASAP I could sell you my prototype pictured below for $1,000 shipped. Guys - this will change the way you feel about you caRs. Steering wheel is one of the few connections you have with the car and having a true sporty one makes for a great driving experience! Enjoy the photos, let me know if this is something that you'd be interested in and spread the word!
  18. 4 points
    It looked like Jupiter in my eye piece at least. It was actually fucking amazing seeing it in real life. My phone doesn't do it justice, but you can see 4 moons! Greg's 850 reflects off the east coast so light pollution is bad.
  19. 4 points
  20. 4 points
    Basically once FB got popular, the forum sloooooooowed down lol. Still prefer it here.
  21. 4 points
  22. 4 points
    Guess it would have but one thing lead to the other and eventually only curiosity was left.
  23. 3 points
  24. 3 points
    A few more with bonus Volvo project pics from Jim's car.
  25. 3 points
  26. 3 points
    Started on the 110k service work - t/belt, tensioner, idler, water pump, serpentine belts, etc. Doing all the hoses with do88 kit while I have it all apart. Found a nest behind the battery tray and.... dropped the trans Pressing on the new bearings 6843481 L&R axles seals, 32008-XQ bearings x2, Subaru gasket sealant 004403007 WaveTrac in, all back together. New slave and vent tube, with shock load limiter removed. Spec Stage III + rear main Spec Flywheel in CV boots K16, injectors going in tomorrow, then putting it all back together.
  27. 3 points
    These two douche bags: Always ask yourself how does this decision benefit Trump's family first, his businesses second, his donors third, Russia fourth, and the rest of the world last.
  28. 3 points
    if you started at 38, then lower them back to 38 as they heat up. You want things to be consistent. If you let the pressure change, your traction changes and the car handles differently every run. You don't want that unless it is to make improvements. You should see other drivers in the grid checking and adjusting pressure in their tires after runs. When the events are warm or hot, you will see the sprayers come out to cool down the tires. You want your front tire pressure as low as you can go without rolling the tires. The lower the pressure, the bigger the contact patch and the more traction. Traction is everything in autocross, and with FWD, the front tires are doing almost everything. As for driving tips, your line looks good, but you need to be smoother on the steering inputs. The entry into the first slalom was good and you were back siding the cones the whole way, but your steering was becoming snappy at the end. That is part of the reason the tires were talking to you because they are losing traction because of snap steering inputs. Tires talking to you on a sweeping turn is good as you are near the limit of traction. Steering angles were more than you needed for that slalom as well, but that is because you need to be closer to the cones. The tighter you are to them, the less steering you need to do to get around them. This is mostly because you are new at it. Like almost anything, the more you practice, the better you become. If you haven't done a rain event, that will help you as it will force you to be smoother. Don't be afraid to hit cones either. Yeah, it is 2 second penalty, but you need to know just how close you can get to them. You are out there to have fun, so have fun. Don't worry too much about your time starting out. If you are smashing cones with the front bumper or tires, too close. If you are tapping them with the rear tires, the force is flowing through you. Here are 2 videos of me driving. The side camera view is so I know how close I am getting to the cones. First is my car, second is in an Evo 9. Both are clean runs. I had only been racing autocross a few years at this point and probably less than 30 events total. You WILL get faster fairly quickly, you just need the seat time. Be on the cones to be fast!
  29. 3 points
    Yep. No regrets with the IPD turboback. Everything fit like a glove. My father and I had zero issues installing it at home, and you could see/feel/smell/taste the quality.
  30. 3 points
    My M66 swap won't be done until summer at this point...so that will debut next year. So excited for this year. Hoping it won't rain of course...because that sucks. Nothing new for my car this year unfortunately, but next year should have tune, m66, and exhaust so thats neat.
  31. 3 points
    Caint kill it.....
  32. 3 points
    Raced it. it has been almost 2 years. Racing it again today and next Saturday.
  33. 3 points
    Finished my retrofit today. Had an extra set of R lenses laying around so I decided to use them. The plan is to sand the flutting on the stock lenses and swap them back in. Night time shots to come.
  34. 3 points
    Sitting a little more neatly now. took the time to hot glue down the leather cover and trim the thicker sections on the seams Quintessential R badge affixed to the front of the grill. Got another junkyard one and gave it a clean with 3-4 plasti dip coats. Badge is done with 3m red. Clips remain intact.
  35. 3 points
    I feel like this is not documented enough. My stock pump went out at 218k miles on the VR. I didnt feel like spending $$ on OEM unit nor did I want to spend time fabbing an aftermaket pump to fit. Someone on our FB suggested ordering a kit from Quantum Fuel Systems. http://www.highflowfuel.com/ I bought their kit for $108 (March 2017). Their kit used a Walbro 255. Access is on the passenger side. You only really need to remove the seat bottom and pull the carpet back. I decided to cut a hole with an angle grinder and my dremel to access the pump since I dont have my lift yet. Be careful not to go too deep, lots of lines there. Stock unit out. I had to redo the electrical connections to work. Plus now I have quick connects everywhere. Bottom pickup filter neck diameter is incorrect size. Had to use the old one. Direct pump filter was good. Again I snipped the wired directly to the pump and added quick connects. Everything received heat shrink. Martinis were had. Put back in.
  36. 3 points
    Fixed my boost leak!!! It didn't have anything to do with the TCV so I'm gonna put the IPD one back in. I'm an idiot and forgot to cap off the EGR. Oh man, I've forgotten how much quicker it is over a stock turbo P80. O_O
  37. 3 points
  38. 2 points
    Thank you Greg. Visited the racetrack twice with the S60. First time was to get familiar with the car. An afternoon session at the TT-Circuit, Assen the Netherlands. Went alone and did some 30 laps. Had an issue with a wheel coming loose and the brakes were warped after the session. The second trip was together with Emiel and the wifes. We went to that great Belgian racetrack called Spa Francorchamps. Car was fitted with new discs and brake pads after a lot of hassle because Volvocars didn't have brakes in stock.. We had great fun and the car did reasonably well. Used all Volvo-Polestar provided settings for tire pressure and suspension but I had a bit of a hard time getting used to the somewhat understeering behaviour of the car. Power wise it was a blast.
  39. 2 points
    Hello Everyone! I thought I'd make a little showcase thread for my Volvo 740. I feel there's going to be a lot of mixed feelings about this car, but here it goes: This is my 1986 Volvo 740 Turbo. Factory M46 Manual transmission. I purchased this car after it had sat in a field not running for over a year(that event has quite a story all it's own). Previous to that, it had been running the "big" turbo that's on it with no supporting modifications at all. The turbo on it is a Borg Warner GM-3, which has been passed around more than a...well, you get the idea. It's been on many local cars and wound up on this one before I got it. Seals seem alright, and it's working consistently, so I'm going to leave it on until it creates a problem. So here's what myself and a few friends of mine have done to it since I got it: Under Car Pump Delete Walbro 263 LPH In Tank Pump (The Airtex/Walbro Mustang Pump Swap) RC 440cc Fuel Injectors Megasquirt MS2 V3.0 Installed Welded Diff Cut springs (I know, I know...) Some other stuff I'm forgetting. I'd like to get an IPD turbo cam in it, and see if I can't get it to spool a tad faster. It's a monster once it comes alive, it just takes a bit. If you are interested in this build, I have documented pretty much every single moment of it, as I am a youtube vlogger. Here's the playlist: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLyr2kPstW42te2H4WfKt1SgzQdsRlP0GQ This car was also featured on Mighty Car Mods' second channel's show "Unicorn Circuit" before the springs were cut and the diff was welded . I did a nice one wheel peel for them! Glad to be here! Braden
  40. 2 points
  41. 2 points
  42. 2 points
    Well kept tan does look great! Too bad they are almost never taken care of
  43. 2 points
    Yeah I cant believe people are paying over $600 for that thing. If your going to dump that just save another month and get the IPD
  44. 2 points
    Consider your asses kicked. Better luck next year. :)
  45. 2 points
    Yeah that makes sense. I think the 1600kg are more like 1400ish in reality. I have access to a flow bench through a friend so I might try that.
  46. 2 points
    Well we got some work done today, nothing done to the blue car really yet, besides installing a 10 inch sub, switching back to summer status, putting the pegs back on and ditching the roof racks until next winter; HOWEVER, we made a great deal of progress on the XC. Engine, Trans, And rear diff are all out. Car has been banged up pretty good from the aggravation it caused us and is on its way to scrap. Hopefully soon I can get the 16T rebuilt and on the V70, and start tearing into the T5 and getting it built up... should be a fun project. That's all for now! Cheers, -Billy
  47. 2 points
    My thoughts on the matter, having done all 3 techniques at various points in the last couple years: - Dropping the subframe is the most work, for sure, but is the "cleanest" technique and "factory" procedure. - Keaton85's method works, but prying on the top of the fuel tank worries me. On cars that see salt/winter, the fuel lines tend to end up rusty and any extra movement caused by prying at stuff can cause them to break. Additionally, it's not much more work (you already did the hard part of freeing the subframe bolts and subframe from the chassis) to just go all the way and drop the subframe. - Cutting a hole in the floor is the easiest and is very fast. I have gotten to the fuel pump in about 10 minutes with this method. That being said, I don't like cutting a hole in the chassis where the rear seat mounts are and prefer not to permanently alter my vehicle if I can help it. There is also a fair bit of work that goes along with sealing the new hole back up that a lot of people don't really think about when choosing this technique. My preferred technique is to buy 4 long (~70mm or more) M12x1.75 bolts and replace the largest 4 of the factory subframe bolts with the new, longer ones. This allows the subframe to stay aligned with the car (lining everything back up is the worst part of dropping the whole thing) and still gives you plenty of room to work on the pump. I have a ton of pictures from when I replaced my fuel pump and fully dropped the rear subframe. I also have a half-written DIY on that job, plus replacing the fuel lines and installing a Deatschwerks DW300 fuel pump in the factory housing. I need to finish that up, it's only been half-done for a few years now.....
  48. 2 points
    Not done with winter just yet.
  49. 2 points
    I've got some plans for it this weekend already! My friend is coming up from Kitchener and after I do give it a wash we are going to tear the XC apart and begin transplanting all the good stuff over! assuming everything goes to plan I should have a 16T and functioning awd again by the time Monday comes around 😄
  50. 2 points
    1. I have reflashed a 960/S90 M4.4 ECU before, you do the exact same procedure as flashing for the 850s, which is described in the m4.4 thread. 2. Running a European manual ecu / binary will not work as they use immobilizer. If the ecu doesn't get a signal from the key module (which us doesn't even have the key module i believe), then the car will start for a split second and sputter to death. 3. Your best bet it to switch the hardware config byte in the m4.4 software, which will make the ecu act as a manual and stop the P1618 from triggering. If that doesn't work, alternatively you could find the diagnostics disable for the TCM and disable it. Youll have to find the hardware config byte @Tightmopedman9 might have an xdf. If he doesn't I can take a look in the next day or so. ~Matt