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Showing content with the highest reputation since 08/22/2017 in all areas

  1. 8 points
  2. 6 points
  3. 5 points
    Posted up with @RBoy8 at the Cars and Coffee Toronto season finale.
  4. 5 points
    MWC had a little meetup yesterday and quite a few bricks showed up. Good food, good fun and possibly Justus finished installing his cat back exhaust.
  5. 4 points
    Finally got around to polishing out the mini van. It came out a lot better than I thought it would. Bonus is we used my buddy's employer's land which was an old Army Weapons Depot that was shut down some time ago after the end of the Cold War. It was full of old bunkers and everything. I really need to polish out and clear my headlights now. Last little bit to get this vehicle where I want it.
  6. 4 points
    Eh, not quite. Pulled it out of storage not too long ago, and refurbed it. Took it out to a Cars/Coffee this past weekend which was pretty cool.
  7. 3 points
  8. 3 points
    I had the spindles machined down and brackets made to mount the P2R calipers on my S70. I lost the steering stops, but the front tires rub before I get to full lock anyway. 235/40R18 on Mirzams w/10mm spacers up front/20mm rear. I already talked to Justin about this. It cost me a shit load to have the custom work done and no, I can't get more brackets made. Just get the Porsche setup for the front or take a set of spindes, calipers, rotor, pads, hub and axle to a fab shop and see what they can do.
  9. 3 points
    Had the windows tinted today.
  10. 3 points
    I participated in one mile race recently. As I was allowed to run 270 km/h (168 mph) max (because I don't qualify for faster run) I managed to get 268 km/h. I had to let off the throttle in the end. There are pretty strict rules for local one mile race. I am in A class (up to 2L turbo engines). If I want to go faster than 270 km/h then these are the rules: 1. The competitor must wear a special non-flammable driving suit, socks and balaclava. 2. The competitor must wear footwear that covers the ankle. 3. The competitor must wear gloves made either fully of leather or of leather on the inside and non-flammable 100% wool on the outside. The gloves must partially cover the sleeves. Perforated gloves are forbidden, irrespective of the hole size. 4. Only SNELL or SFI homologated helmets are allowed. Homologation may be expired. 5. The driver must wear a special neck support. FHR neck support is strongly recommended. 6. The driver’s seat must have 5-point seatbelt with 3“ wide belts in compliance with at least SFI 16.1 requirements. 7. The car must have a FIA compliant rollbar (see http://www.fia.com/sites/default/files/regulation/file/2012-DessinsDrag_09.12.11.pdf, „Drawings", drawing 12). 8. The rollbar must be welded or bolted with metal plates to the main structures (frame, subframe) as required by FIA rules. 9. In case of manual transmission, the use of standard flywheel is allowed only in case a flywheel protector in compliance with SFI 6.1, 6.1w, 6.2 or 6.3 requirements is used. If there is no such production flywheel protectors available, the flywheel protector must be made of at least 6.35mm thick steel, be firmly fixed and surround the flywheel 360 degrees. The flywheel protector is not used in case of the use of non-standard flywheel in compliance with SFI 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4 or 1.5 requirements. 10. All oil and fuel hoses and lines must be connected with thread joints, the use of clamp joints is prohibited. And if I want to go over 290 km/h: 11. It is strongly recommendable to use FHR neck protection. 12. The driver’s seat must have a firmly fixed backrest, which leans on the horizontal pipe of the rollbar (pipe C, see http://www.fia.com/sites/default/files/regulation/file/2012-DessinsDrag_09.12.11.pdf, Drawings", drawing 16). 13. Homologated (FIA Technical List No 16) fire distinguishing system is mandatory. The gauge on the fire distinguisher must show green and the fire distinguisher must have a valid label of inspection. If an electrically engageable system is used, it must have a separate battery, available to be checked. 14. The car must have a metal external main electricity switch (positioned either on the rear panel of the car or the panel beneath the windscreen), which must cut the battery, alternator, lights, ignition and other circuits and stop the engine. The switch must be marked with a blue triangle with a side length of 80 mm and not more than 200 mm. 15. The car must be equipped with a cardan ring with dimensions 6 mm x 50 mm x 360 degrees placed no further than 152 mm from the front cardan cross. And over 300 km/h: 16. The car must be equipped with a braking chute or chutes in compliance with FIA requirements. The splint of the chute must be removed immediately before the racing attempt at the starting line. Not saying that these rules are too much, but don't think I'll go faster than 270 km/h in near future. For 300+ km/h car should have 650hp or more.
  11. 3 points
    Cliche graffiti backdrop
  12. 2 points
    It's more a locker than a LSD. It was standard on all AWD models. Volvo was quite proud of their AWD system and made a video that explains how it works:
  13. 2 points
    I have a 1985 Dodge Omni GLH with lots and lots of modifications, staying 2.2L block and 8 valve cylinder head. It made 290WHP at 20psi on E85 couple years ago on a socketed 1987 Dodge logic module ECU that I programmed. I was experiencing electrical issue with my car and decided it isn't worth my time to troubleshoot the issue, since there is only two possibilities, computers or wiring, none is available new. Wanting to keep the car, aftermarket ECU is the only option and Megasquirt / Microsqurit sounded so good. For simplicity sake I went with batch firing injectors and wasted spark ignition system, so the compact\slightly cheaper Microsquirt would work fine for me as I will only need one crank sensor and a 36-1 wheel welded to my crank. Factory Chrysler's 2.2/2.5 hall effect sensor/distributor setup is broken on MS. My Microsquirt input/outputs are the following. Inputs are: crank/hall sensor, shielded from the shielding of a coax cable.(no need for cam sensor) coolant temperature sensor (Chrysler sensor) air temperature sensor (open element Chrysler sensor) throttle position sensor (Stock Chrysler sensor) ethanol sensor (GM sensor) o2 sensor (AEM Uego with 5v output) manifold absolute pressure sensor (GM 3 bar map) knock sensor (knocksense controller http://www.viatrack.ca) A/C sense wire Outputs are: idle control (on/off solenoid, not the stock stepper motor) tachometer two set of Ignition coil (goes to 420a coil) two set of injectors (75lbs low impedance injectors with a Volvo injector resistor) a/c cut off fan relay wire fuel pump Boost control is handle by my HDi electronic boost controller, and I am very happy with that. Added an external voltage regulator from a 80's dodge truck for the alterantor, super easy to do. Changed all factory fusible links to PAL fuseblock, and added a blade fuseblock for Microsquirt with an relay for ignition switch on I have roughly $1225 into Microsquirt related parts Microsquirt + 8 ft harness $369 36-1 wheel $32.00 Weld 36-1 wheel to crank $100 crank sensor $43 QuadSpark $89.00 MAP sensor connector $8.50 MAT sensor connector $10.00 ECT sensor connector $10.00 TPS sensor connector $10.00 420A wires $20 420A coil $20 Wiring Connector packs $30 USB to serial $15 Misc wires $40 Uninsulated crimp $20 Crimp tool $13 Shrink Wrap $10 Misc bolts $15 Relay $15 Fusebox $25 Fuses $5 E85 sensor + connector $80 knocksense $80 Injector resister $30 wire loop $20 MAC valve for idle control $30 3m tape $6 Tuner Studio + MegaViewer $79.95 etc... Separating engine harness with body harness. Welded the 36-1 wheel to my crank pulley Microsquirt and Quadspark at stock ECU location Some people have coil on plug, I have coil on distributor! Mounted my 420a coil on my distributor, after taking all the moving parts out of the distributor. Welded some 1/4" thick metal for my crank sensor bracket. Injector resistor, on/off idle solenoid, and 3 bar map under the solenoid E85 sensor Boost control solenoid, hobbs pressure switch, (opens at 0psi to control the solenoid that allow blowby to from Valvecover to pre-turbo piping), PCV blowby solenoid Fuseblocks, PC680 battery, and Volvo radiator fan relay Wiring mostly cleaned up
  14. 2 points
    do you fix em up and sell em like all the cars you've had? TURBO X WAGON!
  15. 2 points
    Lil' facelift. More pics this weekend.
  16. 2 points
    God, I love your Honda Odyssey, Timo.
  17. 2 points
    I had a few hours last night to mess with this some more and took a wire wheel to the rusty areas to make any issues more visible as well as clean up the loose surface rust on the places that are getting POR15. That wasn't fun laying under the car... I was able to clean out and inspect the rear subframe mount brackets and both of them seem to be in good shape. Just the fronts have issues. I did find the right side of this frame crossmember to have a small rust hole and some cracking also, although the rust wasn't as severe as the left side. I think I can repair the right side fairly easily without taking removing the subframe bracket. I am a little concerned as to why this crossmember is cracking though. There isn't anything heavy mounted directly to it (subframe bracket is technically mounted to the side frame rails) and I don't see where there would be much stress on it. Not sure why it would be cracking unless the rust just has the metal that thin.. Either way. I'll weld it up and hope for the best. Here is the left side: I got the left side cleaned up too and there is definitely some metal missing now. Thankfully, the front-to-rear frame rail seems to be in good shape, the crack I was seeing inside of the subframe bracket was actually part of the side-to-side frame rail. There is a tab that overlaps onto the side frame rails and that had rusted away leaving a gap. I feel better about that, but will still likely make a patch to go under the bracket to repair what is now missing. Here is the right side after wire-wheel : I'm going to be borrowing a good MIG welder later this week and over the weekend. Hope to have this taken care of soon so I can move on with the project!
  18. 2 points
    A little video from last competion.
  19. 2 points
    Spent the last couple evenings fighting with the lower control arms to get the bushings out. The worst being the bushing at the end of the arm that connects to the knuckle. The steel sleeve and the aluminum arm had bonded together to solid that even after cutting a slot in the sleeve, it still took quite a lot of effort to remove it from the bore. There is quite a bit of chalky oxidized/corroded aluminum here, I was able to remove some of it with a wire brush, but I need to go at it with a sanding barrel on a dremel before pushing the new bushings in. Happy to have the lower arms stripped bare now though. Just a few more bushings and broken bolts to remove and then I can work on other parts of the project.
  20. 2 points
    1. Turn key to position 1 or 2 (whichever is the one that unlocks the steering wheel lock) 2. Press shiftlock override button with one hand, and hold it down while you: 3. Shift into neutral with the other hand This works every time with my S70 which has no battery
  21. 2 points
    I want to give a shout out and big thank you to Gary for a smooth Transaction. My cousin needed a "new" car that would be affordable and reliable. Looked all around here (northern CA) but didn't find anything we thought would work. I had previously bought an 850R from Gary and he was open to selling the s70 that he had. A couple of phone calls later, shipping to CA, and now it's here. Thanks Gary (Yellow95)!
  22. 2 points
    Whoa, last post in this thread was like 3 weeks ago? Off-topic non-volvo content attached.
  23. 1 point
    To further help you and anyone else that may use this thread for reference, the following is what must be done to mount a FWD steering rack. Simply cut along the dotted line I sketched, you'll see when comparing the racks to one another that this seems to be exactly what Volvo themselves do.
  24. 1 point
    I believe the rear is a LSD, that's what you're seeing. Also if needed. I got 4 90* fuel tank unit connector guys for you today.
  25. 1 point
    FYI a FWD TRW rack will bolt up without issue. AWD just lack one mount and it can simply be taken off with an angle grinder. Been using a FWD rack on the black V70R for a couple years without issue, if anything it actually has a better turning radius now.
  26. 1 point
    99 my friend. Sending stuff to the Great Stev0
  27. 1 point
    Thanks Grego. I haven't driven it yet, there was too much beer to drink. Also, I don't know how to launch the car yet so theres that It cleaned up pretty nice.
  28. 1 point
    Took mine out of the city for the weekend on what is now tied for the best driving/riding experience I've had my entire life. Did the whole thing solo, packed my tent to camp it, and total cost was about $25 in fuel.
  29. 1 point
  30. 1 point
  31. 1 point
    I picked this up earlier this summer for $200. 1994 Elite 50. All lenses broken, exhaust pipe had a hole in it and was rusty, two flat rotted tires, busted up plastics, wouldn't run right, no rear brakes, rusty wheels, broken airbox and a bunch of other busted shit on it. Some guy bought it for his young kids to ride and they trashed it. Painted the wheels, polished the plastics, replaced all the lenses, new tubes/tires, welded and painted the exhaust, replaced the brakes, new battery, cleaned the carb and replaced more nickel and dime stuff on it. Did some really crafty shit with some zip-ties since plastics for these are hard to come by, looks wonderful from a few feet away. Does an amazing 30mph. I could make it go faster but it's a moped and it does what it does.
  32. 1 point
    Need to put a little paint on the scuffed up part of the bracket still.
  33. 1 point
    Can't wait to see them this weekend.
  34. 1 point
    Not the easiest retrofit due to size, but here: Factory Volvo blue box 03/04 C70 jewel headlights, Morimoto Mini D2S 4.0 bi-xenon projectors, Panamera shrouds, Osram 66240 D2S bulbs, all powered by JY Mitsubishi W3T19371 ballasts from an Acura TL and wired utilizing the factory jewel high beams (yes, quad high beams). Custom caps were necessary due to the length of the projector, especially with the bulb igniters. All worth it for the amount of light they put out.
  35. 1 point
    Turns out they are looking pretty stain-free after cleaning them up! They're all the same colour, just the white balance on my camera changed between photos
  36. 1 point
    Haven't seen the 850t since Jan. some day it will surface again! Been messing with another Volvo
  37. 1 point
  38. 1 point
    hey at least my DD is still a volvo ;)
  39. 1 point
    Triplets, don't forget about @tuner4life
  40. 1 point
    omg. sell it to an enthusiast and get them a Honda civic then mike. :(
  41. 1 point
    At that point, just pull the bulb out of the dash.
  42. 1 point
    I am fine, we made sure to buy our first home in one of the highest points of inner Houston - with good drainage. We did get 8-10 inches in an couple hours three separate times. The culverts on both sides are about four feet deep from the lawns. My street on the 2nd of three bad rain events from Harvey. Aaron Hehr is also ok and his shop didn't get flooded as far as I know. Lucas I do not know about, he lives south of Houston and they got it worse. Juan had one of his his Volvo's flooded but I didn't here anything bad about his home or family. Many of my friends had their houses completely flooded, and still have feet of water in their homes as of now, and are not allowed to go to them.
  43. 1 point
  44. 1 point
    yes I do see that haha never noticed that before the c70 is timeless
  45. 1 point
  46. 1 point
  47. 1 point
    Went straight to war with my 99 V70r over the past week ish. I replaced my front struts (Koni yellows), springs (Eibach), strut bearings and mounts, tie rods, control arm, wheel bearing... no problems. Started the rear suspension (new springs and nivos)... driver side came apart, no problem. Got the driver's side springs and nivos in, and went to take the passenger side apart and the bolt that mounts the rear control arm was froze in the sleeve that mounts in the control arm (bolts the rear control arm to the bearing housing via a rubber bushing). I figured not a big deal, I'll take the die grinder, cut the original bolt out, then get a new bushing from Volvo. Well... that bushing is NLA from Volvo. I then figured out that NO ONE makes aftermarket suspension bushings for a 99 V70 AWD. So I called Energy Suspension with my dimensions, and figured out that a polyurethane Jeep Wrangler spring shackle bushing is the same diameter, just a little too long. The bushing was $13, so I took a chance and ordered it. Once I cut it down, it fit together nicely, actually pressed in perfectly, like a urethane bushing should. The original bolt was a 12 mm, but the new shackle bushing sleeve was for a 1/2" bolt, so I had to drill the entry and exit holes in my bearing housing for the 1/2" bolt. Everything pressed together perfectly and the car is back on the road. Drives amazing, the suspension is so much more predictable and stable. The car doesn't "plow" dips like it used to, no more crunching when I'm full clock while steering... really glad I did it. And my old suspension didn't really feel worn out, I replaced it because it was a tad lop-sided and I wanted to drop the front a little. Very happy with the end result. I'm thinking I might try to replace all the bushings in the rear suspension the same way... I have a spare lower control arm so I can measure everything and call Energy Suspension again to see what might work. Next I think I'll remove my cat, getting it ready for a catless Hilton tune hopefully in October. I really want to get into 13 sec 1/4 with it. I'm not saying that simply removing my cat will do this, but I think the combination of what I've done, plus removing the cat, and a Hilton tune should get me there (hopefully, I might still need to go with a FMIC). I'll try to post suspension pics with my phone... Well, tried and still can't upload pics on this forum. So... Edit: I also finally centered my shifter. When I did my swap, I used the factory shift linkage mounting holes. This places the shifter a tad too far forward (bump the hazard switch sometimes when hard shifting 3rd with my knuckle), and a tad to the right. I moved it back about 9/16", and about 3/16" over to the left and the shift linkage is perfectly centered in the hole in the console now. I used a thread setter to install new threads to mount it, worked perfectly.
  48. 1 point
    As long as you're not using a MLS head gasket, you don't need to machine the block and head. If you are using a MLS gasket, get everything machined or you'll be repeating the job. Shiny isn't critical for a proper seal on the new gasket. Make sure there aren't any pieces of old gasket left behind and the new gasket will seal. I'd use a rubber scraper blade to remove as much as you can, then use a chemical gasket remover. Lastly, I'd spray the surface with brake parts cleaner to remove any residue and leave the aluminum fairly clean.
  49. 1 point
    Nope. $4k because of the suspension, wrap, headlights, bumper and all the other shit on the car. Thanks for the dickhead comment, though. Had a few people interested in this. All wanted me to hold the car until XX-XX date, or who wanted to send payments on this. Dropped the price down to $3500.
  50. 1 point
    Little fine tuning. These are kw and nm at the wheel. The most precise dyno in country. And a video of some flames :)