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Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/11/2020 in all areas

  1. 6 points
  2. 5 points
    Wrapped up the nose for right now - and moved on to the mechanical work needed to get it running. Dropped the subframe, swapped the oil pan, tack welded the replacemnt subframe section & took the car out for a drive for the first time in 3 monnths! replacement, and new brake line I had to fabricate to replace the one crushed Also painted/dyed the canvas targa panel
  3. 4 points
    Still going strong after 10+ years of ownership.
  4. 4 points
    I got the car back from paint today; R bumper resprayed and fitted, Rear bumper resprayed, Rear spoiler resprayed, Door side trim resprayed, Roof trim cleaned up and resprayed, 6 panel PDR (I didn’t know it was that bad), Full paint correction. New rear mudflaps fitted and a shiny new “T5” trunk lid badge. He took the flaking factory roof trim coating/paint weirdness off and applied a lightly textured plasticy bed-liner material. I’m not super impressed with that, but it looks ok- certainly better than before and considering the OEM S70 roof trim is for sure coming out of Sweden these days, if it’s even still available, I will live with his solution. This used to be something I would have messed with, but I’m old and over that shizz. Plus, I doubt my homespun solution would have looked as presentable as his. There are definitely people in the world who are skilled at photographing black cars. I- Well, I am definitely not one of those people. Let’s be honest, I can’t take a picture anyway. But the Saff is so forgiving in its coppery, bronzy, goldy, pearly goodness that even a hack like me can create images that are nice to look at. So, what I’m driving at is the pics don’t do this car justice... it’s *really* clean.
  5. 3 points
    ...and just like that the problem is solved! Of course it was the ballad of the bad ground connection. The ground rail in front of the battery wasn't really optimal design and one of the connections is for the coil and the impedance was up to 34k ohms. Also, I read elsewhere about swapping the wires for the crank sensor so I did that as well. I swapped the wires for the crank sensor first and I noticed that the injectors would pulse for a moment and then cut out but then after about 2 seconds would cut in again and fire for a while and cut out again and cycle like this. Once I saw this I realised I had a new issue with the spark and threw a bunch of stuff at it and only then thought about the ground, which turned out to be the problem. With that fixed the car started right up and actually ran a lot better than the 1st time I got it running as it was barely responding to the throttle and occasionally running rough. now it starts and idles straight away and throttle response is as it should be. I suspect with the exhaust on and the O2 sensors it will be running great. Plan after the exhaust is to put the plates on and get the car inspected then a tune from vast to take advantage of the 16t. exciting times ahead.
  6. 3 points
    Built M58 : M66 Quaife, Reinforcement plate for bearings, P1 M56H 4.25 (strongest volvo gearset out there & steel synchros) and a custom mount to adapt it to the P80 FWD subframe / steering rack.
  7. 3 points
    Got the HRE 535's on. Need to drive it and get the suspension to settle. Also need to go beat on it since I have a track day on the 12th.
  8. 3 points
    20% front. 15% back, Ceramic Plus. Definitely felt different driving a tinted car for once since none of mine are. Now I need to clear up the yellowing ABS plastics.
  9. 3 points
    Over the weekend, I went to the Gilmore car museum in Michigan for a Volvo gathering. It was brutally hot, but there was a nice turnout, and I got to meet many great people. Even parked next to the one and only Robert Spinner! Also to note, this is probably the cleanest that this car has ever been in my ownership.
  10. 3 points
    Must have looked at that post from (Oreo) 4-5 times over the past few years. Finally decided it was the time do it. If you want to make it that much easier you might consider removing the front seats as well.
  11. 2 points
    New wheels for the wagon and generally driving the bmw whenever it’s nice out. I've had the bmw for just a little over 2 years now and the wagon will have been mine for 2 years in December. Crazy.
  12. 2 points
    Thanks for always taking the time to write up such details posts. I appreciate the insight & help greatly. I made some progress on the oil drain tonight. Ill post up a few pictures when I get things tacked up. I was able to use some 1" OD aluminum tubing to basically shoot the drain directly towards the firewall and then 180 around and switch to 12AN braided hose. It mains a downhill the entire time including when its going towards the fire wall and bending around the 180. The FWD 12AN drain to the oil pan was so much easier & worked so freaking well! Oh well though, there is a lot going on back there with the turbo and angle gear so its going to take some extra work. Thanks! I set him a message on Facebook.
  13. 2 points
    Did rear brakes on the 2018 S60. Was worried about the electronic parking break, but man once I got in there it was so much easier than so many people made it sound. Saved about $300-$500 O.o 2x T30 2x 15 and 14mm 1x T40 And thats that. lol
  14. 2 points
    I have a massive pile of parts in the shop and have started digging into this car again. Thank God for FCP and their lifetime warranty! I am replacing a number of engine, suspension, and other parts that I had previously replaced and had either gone bad or wore out after years of use. They don't care and they stand behind their warranty, if a part is bad, they replace it. Period. I got the coilovers installed several weeks ago and set the initial stance. The fronts are adjusted all the way down without removing any of the lock rings. I may go a little lower later, but I do want to actually drive this car. I anticipate some settling will happen, so we'll see. Once I was satisfied with the coilover install, I pulled it back in the shop for the rest of the projects. I have so far finished up the tie rods, control arms, etc. Upgraded to 302mm brakes with all new calipers, braided hoses, Zimmerman coated rotors, Akebono pads, etc. I got everything cleaned up nice and painted. Love it or hate it, I think it looks good, and the blue compliments the orange nicely. I also finished up freshening up the engine with new timing belt and components, replaced PCV hoses, all new cam seals, front crank seal, oil pump seal kit, replaced all coolant hoses, intercooler hoses, and vacuum hoses to silicone. I also re-polished the parts that I had done previously and polished the OTE pipe as well while I was waiting for the new parts to arrive. Overall just tried to get it back to a stage zero mechanically and pretty enough to show. Still on the to-do list is: -Dash removal including: mounting tab reinforcement, heater core, A/C evaporator (and all other serviceable components), coolant firewall junction and seals, clean up the previous stereo wiring, and a handful of other little projects. -Drop rear axle and replace the delta links, joints, etc, parking brakes, regular brakes, and brake lines as I have destroyed them trying to loosen. I have Zimmerman rotors, Akebono pads, new calipers, and stainless hoses for the rear as well. Once all of that is done, I will finish up some work on the stereo, and cosmetics, and finally figure out the proper spacer situation so that these wheels fit right. Bonus points, I should probably find an exhaust while I'm doing everything else. This one is starting to get crusty.
  15. 2 points
    That's cool to hear! And thank you, where I live things have been very good with regards to the virus, but we're definitely not out of it quite yet I was lucky that the previous owner had projector lights installed for quite a while, he owned the car for 120,000km so my dot lights have seen a lot less use! I haven't had too much going on with the car, but I took it on a 1700km road trip this past weekend almost all the way across BC! Replaced my groaning and failing power steering pump just in time, the night before leaving. Imgur album of the photos: https://imgur.com/a/SsEAd9Q
  16. 2 points
  17. 2 points
    This was a two person extraction for sure. Plastic epoxy to get the position correct on the mounts Holding all the bits in place Fiberglass goo and the fabric they provide in the little kit. Cleaned up the front and made sure the bottom (top in the picture) is level as that rests on the dash shelf. Covered the parts that might make contact with the car in the TESA (ford recall) tape to give it the buffer that was previously there. One short drive on the new dash and it seems to be working well. Next is to build a little extension for the shifter tray piece so it has some more rigidity again. Basically where the blue tape is. I have some ABS bar stock I'm planning to cut and shape and tie that into the edge. https://imgur.com/1iudvgM.jpg[/img]
  18. 1 point
    The Short: What voltage should the TPS read at WOT? Because I think I have a problem... 96 850R, manual swapped, NA Throttle Body with 960 Throttle Plate, Manual Throttle Cable. When I did the manual swap (7-8 years ago and probably 7-8k miles) I replaced literally everything with new oem parts... The TPS and throttle cable were replaced... How do I know I have a problem? Aaron (VA5T tuning) can see on my logs that when im WOT my TPS is reading 70% and it should read about 83% when floored. He can obviously re-scale and compensate for this but it's better to get this corrected. I decided after nearly a 2 year hiatus of not touching the car that I am going to look into this... I decided to do this test... both my original TPS and 'new Bosch' TPS measure 3.8V when both the pedal is fully depressed and when the throttle spool is at its stopper at WOT. This guy in the video gets 4.5V all the way open... Do I have two bad TPS devices? When slowly opening the throttle the voltage doesn't jump around, they smoothly increase like I believe it should. What gives? Any advice? Thanks! Greg
  19. 1 point
    Moving to performance for better visibility.
  20. 1 point
    The clutch disc you want to use with a 23 spline transmission and an 850 SMF and PP is equivalent to a Sachs SD-693. That Sachs clutch is originally from an 87 RX-7, so you can order a clutch that fits the RX-7 and it should work with the 850 SMF and PP. This is a popular option for an aftermarket clutch to use with the 850 SMF and PP https://www.advancedclutch.com/product/perf-street-sprung-disc-3000204-2?gfid=p2457-c269617 I'm running an 850 SMF, Sachs SD-693, and 850 R PP on my M66 swapped 2000 V70 R and it's been great. A few other guys have run that clutch without issues, although it's apparently harder to find now then it was a few years ago. A couple different guys ran into issues with the Sachs clutch not holding up after their swaps, so your mileage may vary. I haven't heard of anyone having problems with the ACT clutch I linked earlier, so that may be a good option if you can find one.
  21. 1 point
    Hey Friends, So the Amazon needs an upgrade. The 2.0l is not cutting it, looking for a 4.3 or a 2.5 engine swap. Anyone care to suggest a post, video, or other contact for starters? Cheers
  22. 1 point
    I wouldn't use corrugated tube - I did try that for a couple versions - the corrugations are not helpful for oil foam I just found a piece of thin wall aluminum tube that was a snug fit over the inlet - I never made a note of it, sorry Add the safety ground sleeve - and + - are reversed. Cut a small opening in the underside of the case near the bottom (not shown), since the DW has no secondary pickup for fuel residing inside the pump housing
  23. 1 point
    Thank Hussein! Yes the oil drain is something I need to continue playing around with. I found this piece which might order up and try. Its a flexible turbo oil drain. It might allow me to get a better angle off the turbo. Then I can weld on an AN fitting or something. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bdd-1453106 On a side note... Hussein I kinda remember the mods you made to your AWD fuel pump sender to fit a DW300 but all of the links to the pictures are dead... from what I remember the pump outlet fits the sender fine, but you had to make a spacer on the pump inlet in order to hookup the strainer screen? Do you remember the ID of that spacer?
  24. 1 point
    Nice work! I could have told you better to check the freeplay / movement in gears using either the assembled AG, an axle or even an old clutch disc- as you found, hold the input shaft you don't have enough leverage to overcome the gear ratios With the oil drain, better to avoid 90's - if you can keep a slight downhill all the way it's gonna be better - remember that you are dealing with oil foam when running high load/rpm, not just oil flow.
  25. 1 point
    NLA from Volvo. In good condition without rust. asking $20 shipped OBO.
  26. 1 point
    Put the motor back together after a little refresh. Switched from ARP studs (which can cause the water jacket to crack and leak) to VW PD150 grade 12.9 head bolts. Volvo are 10.9 for reference.
  27. 1 point
    Hey Darnell, yep, still in the same area. Haven't moved to the Netherlands yet.
  28. 1 point
    Maybe it was out of boredom; The Saff is back in Denver with Aaron getting a heart transplant, Darton sleeves, Wiseco 10:1 pistons, 2.56 liter, new rods, KM cams... that’s a story for a later date. But I don’t curently have a Volvo to drive and I get kinda twitchy and angsty when I don’t have a Volvo to drive. Jane’s p3 na XC70 does not really count. Maybe it was out of jealousy; My co-worker Eliot has a clean black on black ‘98 S70t5a that always makes me long for the uber clean ‘98 s70 t5m (also black on black) that I stupidly sold 7 years ago to buy Ben Kaplan’s spendy coilovers for the Saff. It made sense at the time, but lord have I questioned that decision subsequently. It had an R bumper and springs and yellow konis (which don’t seem to exist anymore?!&@$), and it was owned by a doctor and only serviced at a dealership and it even had non delaminated door panels and it was immaculate and I sold it because I was dumb. And still am, to be fair. Maybe dumber. Happens with age. Regardless, I found a 161k bone stock ‘98 S70 T5M down in Grants Pass, a quaint meth-driven Southern Oregon hamlet. Did I mention they like their meth? The fella who was selling it knew enough to know it was a somewhat rare car with the factory m56, but he didn’t want an arm and a leg for the car and after talking with him for 45 minutes I knew he loved it and cared for it and that I wasn’t insane to send a deposit and book a one-way flight to nearby Medford. I swear most people who buy one way tickets to Medford, Oregon are doing so with the express purpose of transporting meth or sticky-icky or both back up to Portland. But not me, no sir. My addiction is far more dangerous and difficult to kick. Scary virus-laden plane ride: Craigslist pics: The plan is to keep this one stock, or mostly stock. Famous bleeping last words, right? But srsly... the Saff scratches that itch and then some. So, the plan when I bought this one was to lower, put on the Heicos that used to weigh the poor Saff down with their 28 pounds of girthy 10-spoky goodness, R bumper (I have a spare), paint correction and Jewels. So this weekend the car got full stage zero: -Bosch cap and rotor -Bosch plugs -Bougi wires (this b-itch is bad and bougi) -Bosch fuel filter -Bluebox PCV, complete -Air and cabin filters Previous owner replaced the Tbelt and water pump with an Aisin kit 8,000 miles ago, so happy day. Previous owner did not replace cam seals at that time, and now I get to do that because mr. cam seal is leaking, not so happy day. That will be later. Also put some H&R’s on along with the Heicos. Today on my lunch break I dropped the car off at my paint guy’s place for R bumper, re-spray rear bumper, rear spoiler, door trim, roof trim, PDR, and paint correction. Should have it back Friday. All that’s missing are the Jewels, which I’m hoping to grab from Will the Scott, and some R door panels. Who has em? Can’t find any on this coast and everyone that has them on SS are on the other coast and don’t want to ship. Anyway, I impulsively bought another Volvo and I’m a little bit ashamed and might go cut myself or ask a bum to put a cigarette out on my arm. Because, well, that’s what sick people do.
  29. 1 point
    Thank you, I appreciate it! Totally scored... hard to find them clean and unmolested these days. 17” wheels really do fit the P80 better, and seeing as how I’m aiming for an OEM+ build, I put some Titans on. I definitely prefer these to the Heicos, but they really need to be refurbished- pretty good amount of rash. These were once on a Japanese T5R... thanks Taras (@5x108heavyweight)! Other maintenance stuff, changed out the nasty transmission fluid with some fresh Redline fluid. Also, I grabbed some 302mm brackets and threw on some Centric Powerslots along with some Bosch Quietcast pads, replaced the front rubber brake lines and flushed the brake fluid. Now the brick sort of stops. Whoever thought it was a good idea to put 280’s on these cars was hanging out in Grants Pass too much. 280’s are terrifying.
  30. 1 point
    I agree. The stock wheels are not great, but I think they can pass as OKAY when the car is lowered. I'm gonna swap the wheels eventually but I'm undecided about what to get. I have my Rotiform TMB wheels in the garage, but I'd need to change to a larger tire size, and I'm not sold on how they look on MK7. I've only found one pic online: I also like the golf R wheels (though they are 19") and neuspeed RSE10
  31. 1 point
    wow. no i didnt. but if thats the case then a lot of other people would have this issue with so many of us having turbo cars but NA intake manifolds/TB etc checked its the same TPS for na/t5 etc. for like 10 years of volvo models
  32. 1 point
    Thanks man, I’m kind of blown away how well it cleaned up. Definitely some swirl that they couldn’t get out from previous negligence, this car lived outside for the last decade, it’s a miracle the paint is as good as it is. And don’t plant those kinds of ideas In my mind, lol. When I got it back last night I took it for drive and I think I got into boost one time. Cruiser status for this one, slow and easy. I swear. Next up, tint, then putting on some new wheels. To be continued
  33. 1 point
    looks amazing - now send it to Aaron
  34. 1 point
    First decent bath in.... yeah idk how long. Wash wax vac.
  35. 1 point
    36 PSI with 225/45/17 on my wagon
  36. 1 point
    I get the same thing on mine, random MAF errors. Thought maybe the connector was dodgy but now you have the same issue I'm not sure. If you want to just stop the MIL coming on (error lamp disable in tunerpro) then you could add a new scalar pointing to 0xF39F (for the 608rev5b) and set it to 0. Otherwise, looking at the Damos there isn't a diagnostic disable for the MAF. However there is a min/max flow in kg/h for diagnosis and also a min/max RPM threshold for diagnosis. The mini flow is at 0xF239 and max flow is at 0xF23A. The min RPM threshold is at 0xF23B and max RPM threshold at 0xF23C.
  37. 1 point
    Thanks for the refresher on the dash tabs lol. I'll be having to do that on my C70 in the next month or so.
  38. 1 point
    You should be able to add four new scalars in tunerpro (right click parameter list and click "insert new XDF parameter") and set the addresses to 0xF3AB, 0xF3AC, 0x1F3AB and 0x1F3AC and name them IAC open fault, IAC close fault, IAC open fault (upper bank), IAC close fault (upper bank) respectively. They should all be set to 1, change them to 0 to disable the MIL coming on.
  39. 1 point
    I was over at the gas station by your house last week and I thought about you. You still in the area?
  40. 1 point
    I think I see a smudge on the passenger front fender Lee. Might want to clean that up.
  41. 1 point
    Yes I did get very lucky. However I was standing as far to the side as I could With my arms fully stretched out which is why I think I avoided getting hurt. Definitely learned my lesson. It’s definitely opened my eyes up to slowing down a little and taking more time to think things through.
  42. 1 point
    Thanks, and my thoughts exactly. Cruiser that still looks good enough to drop by a cars and coffee and not sully up the place, if there is ever such a thing as cars and coffee again. It is really kind of neat and novel to drive around in a stock T5... I kind of forgot how nice a job Volvo did with these right out of the box, lol. 😂😂 No doubt, and I’m pretty sure meth use creates some nice open sores, so kind of a win/win. I’ll more thoroughly cover the Saff’s new engine build soon... long story short is it looks like either a cracked block or head gasket failure on the motor from last summer, and I had regretted not going full-in with Darton sleeves the first go around so I decided just to do this right. The higher compression will greatly improve low-end umph and the cams will improve the top-end. Keeping the gen2 Garrett gtx3071r because I *really* like the turbo and Aaron also suspects we’ll be able to coax a bit more power out of this setup and get me well over 500 awhp, which is silly. I am addicted to Volvos and allergic to money, so here I am.
  43. 1 point
    why are you yelling at us
  44. 1 point
    Rough Etching trial. Going to try a different etching technique later in the week or weekend.
  45. 1 point
    Indeed that is a critical bit, my apologies. I have been through a lot of the binary and disassembled some code, but my efforts at confirming some of the things I've found have been ignored, hence my reluctance to post things that may not be correct but need further testing. I think I've found a way to disable the immobiliser in other bins. I used the IAT channel as mine does not have an IAT sensor. To log this you need to edit the binary in the hex editor on tunerpro and change the value at 0x7E93 from FF D9 to FB 25 (FB25 is the accelerometer value). If you don't fancy editing the binary then you can insert a new XDF parameter in tunerpro to edit that location (set the Address to 0x7E93, the size to 2 bytes (16bit) and the output type to Hex Digits). Then edit the IAT value in the tunerpro definition and change the name and formula to get the correct output value. Hope this makes sense.
  46. 1 point
    In order to be able to log battery voltage just change 5A hex into 36 hex at address 7D92 in the "manual" (608) bin or at address 7E0C in the "automatic" (607) bin. You can do this with tunerpro: in the XDF: Create new XDF parameter - Scalar - give it a name; fill in the Address (0x7D92 for a manual or 0x7E0C for an automatic bin); select hex digits at output type; leave conversion X and Save. Then Edit your ADX to be able to see the battery voltgae in your logs: under Aquisition choose edit definition - Values - change ZWNEU into Battery Voltage (or something like that) , range low: 0 range high 15, conversion X*.07040