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Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/24/2018 in all areas

  1. 7 points
    We did a single day turn-and-burn from Detroit to Harrisburg, PA to get this over the weekend. It's Doug Strickler's old car for the OG's still around here. 1 of 50 99 LB's with a 2000R motor (that's currently blown). Currently awaiting an RN swap and M66. Can't wait to build it!
  2. 3 points
    Out of the Volvo game for a while longer... 2018 Golf R, 6spd manual with Driver Assist
  3. 3 points
    Well, it’s been quite a while but this thread and project has not been forgotten. I finished up my masters degree in computer science last week and am on a much needed vacation. If your curious you can read about my thesis here https://web.wpi.edu/Pubs/ETD/Available/etd-121418-102453/ the link to the full write up is at the bottom. Starting work soon and will finally have 12/12 months of the year to work on this car instead of 3/12 like I’ve had for the past 5 years while I was working on my bachelors and masters. @Andzey I will respond to all of your questions in the next few days. ~Matt
  4. 3 points
    Merry Christmas to me... All these maintenance parts cost more than the whole engine I just bought....
  5. 2 points
  6. 2 points
    thanks. I've done 90% of it to my car at least once at this point - guess that means I've been working on this project for a while I just ordered an adapter to run an aftermarket oil pressure sensor while keeping the stock dummy light - this an M14x1.5 extension with an 1/8" NPT port. It's made by a company in Australia, and I did order a few extras if anyone is interested. I also bought a bung to add a WBO2 sensor to my downpipe
  7. 2 points
    In all seriousness that blows, at least it appears fixable.
  8. 1 point
    Yea but the front wheel wells and firewall gap are packed with several keys of Columbian bam bam for balance
  9. 1 point
    Very cool, will be even better with an M66!!! It's a Spektrum color, 91 Blue. It's the OEM winter wheel and tire package, can't even fit my finger in the gap between the caliper and the inside of the wheel. Honestly this thing has enough power stock, I'm driving this alongside a 90 hp TDI and a 150hp Beetle so it's enough to get me in trouble. It is called '91 Blue after all!
  10. 1 point
    Most likely it would negatively contribute to downforce. The position of the roofbox is mostly between the axles but more towards / over the rear axle. Assuming an average human density of 985kg/m³, an estimated volume of 16 cubic ft. (0,45m³) for the roofbox and allowing for at minimum a 1/3 loss of volume due to parts of human not coming in convenient shapes this means approx. 310,275kg of weight is added to the vehicle. Plus another 15 to 20kg (33lbs-44lbs) for the roofbox itself. This is far to much and completely over the ~75kg (165lbs) limit as per the owner's manual for the pictured car. Basically the rear suspension would stance itself, thus raising the front of the car. Not to mention the handling would be completely ruined.
  11. 1 point
  12. 1 point
    Winter mode engage
  13. 1 point
    I forgot to check Vibrant. Thanks Mikey. That’s good to know. Anyways, it turns out they have those same adapters too. Well, somehow, the Aussie version ended up costing less shipped to me than Vibrant’s is listed for I know Vibrant makes nice stuff so it’s probably better quality than what I got.
  14. 1 point
    Sweet! I ended up getting one made by Vibrant but it took a while. It kept getting pushed back by Summit Racing, so I ended up cancelling when my father helped me find a local company that was able to confirm that they could get it... and then that still took another week, even though Vibrant is located about half hour away from me. Just a friendly reminder... don't forget thread sealer of some kind for all the treads, including the ones for the plugs you don't use! Ask me know I know.
  15. 1 point
    sounds like I need to make a visit to see the beast
  16. 1 point
    pretty cool man - i read the abstract congrats and looking forward to updates on your car!
  17. 1 point
  18. 1 point
  19. 1 point
    You’re all cunts, and you’re the queen cunt of cuntness the cuntiest cunt twats ever existed
  20. 1 point
    what the EFFFF Who else thinks Greg is a fat loser
  21. 1 point
    looking for a set of OEM Volvo manual axles for my 96 850 located in DE
  22. 1 point
    Of course, everything will be saffron. Saffron is love, saffron is life.
  23. 1 point
    a little pic update. IMG_2307.mp4
  24. 1 point
    Thanks! And thank you for all your technical help along the way! A couple of things to update. Here is the sacrificial XC bumper I got from the junkyard to keep the R bumper safe in the winter. I was lucky enough to find all of the shields, grilles, lights, etc. It's getting painted Saffron next week to it will sort of match. Also, here is kind of a public service announcement for anyone lowering an AWD P80. RELOCATE YOUR BRAKE HOSE MOUNTS TO THE CAR!! I had been hearing a light rub whenever the rear would dip over bumps. I blamed it on the tire hitting the fender liner and didn't give it much more thought... Until I was working on something else and noticed that the brake hoses were nearly touching the tire when the car was sitting on the ground. . There are little rubber protective donuts on the brake hose and those were very worn down where they had been contacting the wheel. I never noticed this before because when the car is jacked up, the hose makes a nice arc towards the inside and clears the wheel with plenty of room to spare. But with it being lowered as much as it is, the brake hose is pulled into more of a straight line shape once the car is lowered down. This is made even worse when the car hits a bump as the caliper gets even further away from where the hose is mounted to the car. Luckily I caught this before the hose was actually damaged, only the rubber donuts were worn down. Anyways. I made little brackets out of the piece I removed from the IPD skid plate I relocated the hose further inward and upward. In the pictures the bolt at the bottom of the bracket is where the brake line used to go. There is plenty of room to bend the hard lines into this new position and it fixed the issue giving plenty of clearance between the hose and wheel even at the limits of the suspension travel. Another crisis avoided. I know the brackets are a little crude, but they work fine for whipping them up in 20 min. I also had to remove the lower downpipe and smack/shake/blow it out because there were some small pieces of carbon, or catalytic converter, or something inside and it would rattle like crazy sometimes. I was going to lose my mind. I should have done a better job before I installed it. Took the dogs to their groomer. It's a nice drive around a small lake. Autumn looks good on this car! And another because this is the clearest sky we will probably see again until spring.. Was off work last week and once I got it back on the road from the fuel leaks, the above-mentioned things were the only issues. We put almost 500 miles on it last week and I am very happy with how it has turned out. Besides the ABS/TCS issue that I'm going to ignore until I can find someone with the proper test equipment, there have been no headaches or surprises. Things that I'm still going to go (maybe not till spring?) -New Pierburg TCV (on order) -Install hatch panel with new hardware and repair kit (on order) -finish de-rattling everything (likely forever) -Stereo install (Head unit, speakers, amps, sub tube, etc.) -Tint -Get the factory keyless entry working again -Give the local auto-X a try?
  25. 1 point
    October 2nd, National Name Your Car Day !!!