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Showing content with the highest reputation since 10/25/2017 in all areas

  1. 6 points
  2. 5 points
  3. 4 points
  4. 4 points
    Sounds like it's time for a new job.
  5. 4 points
    ^ Good to know! Well I am pleased to announce that the car is on the ground and I did drive it! Albeit only a few feet. There is so much clutter/tools/boxes/parts behind the car that it'll probably take most of the evening tonight before I can even get the car out of the shop. But it did move under it's own power. First I got the brakes bled. Everything looks so good behind the comets! It'll almost be a shame to swap them out for Andrasteas here in a few days. I also got lucky and the modified rod ends from Yother and the Seals-it boots both arrived yesterday. For anyone wanting to use the Seals-it boots with the Yother arms, get size 4 boots. They fit great. I also highly recommend getting the install tool. I don't think I could have done it without the tool (seen in picture). Arms installed and adjusted visually. I used the adjustibility of the threaded rod in the arms to get the alignment close, but final adjustments will need to be done using the cam bolts on the inboard mounting of the arms. I found it nearly impossible to tighten the large nuts without lowering one end of the arm. There is just not enough room for the wrench. We're all done back here! To attach the rear toe arms, you need: Inner: -Eccentric screw (x2): 986933 -Lock nut (x2): 985870 -There is an eccentric washer under the but that seems to be NLA. I re-used my old ones Outer: Bolt (x2): 985053 Washer (x2): 986396 I then finished torquing the spindle nuts and installed the wheels. When I dropped the jack I actually giggled out loud. The stance is perfect! Exactly where I had imagined it would sit. (Definitely going to spring for an IPD skid plate sooner than later!). Even my guestimate for the drop bolt spacing in the rear seems to be just about right. I drive the car back and forth a few feet to settle the suspension and went to bed. I am very excited! So close now! Disclaimer: I have not rolled the fenders and the liners are still 100% intact. I am not sure that I want to alter either of those things on this car due to the all-season use. I may be able to fit 5mm spacers all around without messing with the fenders or liners, but for now I'm not going to push it.
  6. 3 points
    Thanks everyone! I definitely do need one of those! I have needed one for years, but convincing the wife to come out is much cheaper :) Well, I spent most of last last night cleaning up the shop, but I did eventually un-bury the car was able to take it on it's maiden voyage! I went about 3 miles away to the gas station and filled the tank up the rest of the way. It made it there and made it home with no significant issues. I later changed the cabin air filter and swapped out a failing cabin temp sensor. Instagram pictures to hide just how dirty it actually is: First impression: Holy crap this can't even be the same car! While it still needs an alignment and a few other tweaks, it drives so much better. I have a new found love for this car, and I feel so much better knowing that it's now mechanically how it should be. Engine/drivetrain: It is painfully obvious how restrictive the old exhaust and turbo were. It felt like it was really having to work to pull it's weight around, now it just simply goes. I haven't given it a good beating, but it just feels effortless while accelerating at partial throttle. Originally the car had a stock straight flange turbo and a hacked together home-made exhaust. It was restrictive, loud, and droned like crazy. It now has an angle flange 16t, EST downpipe, and EST axle back and the difference is astounding! It flows so much better, but is also tons quieter. It's just barely louder than my stock C70. It's going to be so much more bearable to live with now! Also worth noting, change your throttle cable! It doesn't matter how good it looks, I replaced mine with a new one and it's so much easier and smoother. you don't realize how much more pleasant of an experience a smooth operating accelerator pedal can be haha. I haven't taken it above about 50mph, but I don't feel any vibrations or shaking at all. A huge win in my book! Suspension: As I mentioned before, I still need an alignment and I'll probably play with the dampening on the Konis a little bit, but the change is unbelievable! you can really feel the IPD sway bars working. The ground was wet last night so I couldn't push it too much, but it was obvious that body roll was almost non-existent. It does feel just a touch bouncy, but nothing unexpected from something lowered this much. Might even be able to cure it with a little more dampening pressure up front. It is VERY low. Even lower than I expected, and I love it! The back doesn't rub (although a did notice a slight clicking sound from the back right when turning hard left. I suspect something with the heat shield or e-brake). The front however definitely does rub during tight cornering. Nothing too major, but it does rub on the fender liner a little. Not even going to worry about it at this point. The fenders are not even rolled and the liners are intact, so I really can't complain. I also can't get over how perfect the stance ended up. It just looks soooo good! Going to be sourcing a skid plate very soon. Brakes: I am very happy with the brake setup I decided to go with. Akebono Euro pads and Zimmerman coated rotors all around. Also 4 new calipers and hoses. I'm still bedding the pads in, so not abusing them at this point, but they are probably the smoothest and quietest brakes I've ever had on any car. And they look darn good! The e-brake also works now for the first time during my ownership. Not sure why the e-brakes in these cars suck so bad (Every P80 I've had has been like this). Just doesn't feel like it holds that well even after being adjusted correctly. Maybe I need to bed the e-brake shoes in a little bit too? Who knows. It should be good enough to keep the car from rolling away on a hill. There are still ABS/TCS lights on in the dash and I really am not sure why. The ECU has been repaired (more than once since the issue persisted), The rear ABS sensors are brand new Volvo OEM, and the front sensors have been replaced with known working replacements. I still need to look into this. Maybe later. Back at home and in the shop. It's getting was close to midnight and I couldn't help but stop and reflect for a few minutes on how big and intense this project really was.. I have literally been in blitzkrieg mode since August working on this thing almost every day, every spare minute. Thousands of dollars, hundreds of hours, several busted knuckles, mild profanity. If I had actually stopped at any point and realized what all I was up against, or actually thought about the amount of work that lay ahead, I'm not sure I would have had the motivation to continue or even start. But now, being at the end of the tunnel I look back on it and be proud of what has been accomplished. I've done restorations before, built engines, done plenty of suspension work, however nothing I have done has felt quite as complex or complicated as this crazy project. I want to personally thank all of you who have given advice, ideas, or helped me source hard-to-find parts. I sincerely appreciate it all! Alignment is scheduled for Saturday morning then this car will be converted to "winter mode". Snow tires on Volvo Andrastea wheels, a sacrificial C70 front bumper to keep the R bumper safe, a skid plate and an application of fluid film. The goal was to have this project done and the car back on the road before the first snow fall and thank God there is no snow in the forecast until next week. I was more stressed than I should have been about this deadline and it is a huge relief to have made it in time.
  7. 3 points
    Getting cozy garage time while installing a snaab fmic.
  8. 3 points
    This echoes what I have read many times about the Bilstein HDs. It's a shame really because I love my Bilsteins on every other car I've ever used them on. My OCD got the better of me so I fabbed up a heat shield out of some scrap aluminum and a couple of exhaust clamps. It's not pretty, but it will do the job of blocking some of the heat from getting to the fuel lines there, and if, God forbid, there is ever a fuel leak there, it should block the fuel from reaching the hot downpipe. It is very solid, doesn't contact anything around it, and doesn't vibrate or rattle. So yay! Looking up from the bottom. The blue loom is the fuel line: Also installed a not-completely-trashed steering wheel. It's just an early X70 Leather wheel, and it does have some wear, but it's miles better than that garbage stock wheel with the suede inserts that rubbed off decades ago and was all gummy. The above was Saturday. Then Sunday I spent nearly all day fitting and refinishing the EST exhaust, and I'm very satisfied with how it turned out! First I mocked it up and had to make an adapter to mount the axle-back to the mid-pipe. The axle-back I have was used and was cut off instead of just being disconnected. No biggie. I got it all hung how I wanted and then pulled it back off and went to town refinishing it. I sanded all of the loose rust/crust/paint off and gave it a vinegar-water bath with a scotch-brite. This removes a good amount of rust and neutralizes what is left. Then I rinsed it and dried it off. After it was completely dry I painted it with Rustoleum Hi-Temp primer and then Rustoleum Hi-Temp Flat black paint. I've had some bad luck with VHT on exhaust parts and I've heard very good things about the Rustoleum so I'm hoping it holds up. Everything but the tips got refinished. I remembered to install the bumper cover before the exhaust because the bolts for the bumper are inaccessible once the exhaust is installed. Also I was finally able to install the bumper trims around the exhaust that I've had painted for the last 2 years! Anyways, I still need to finish baking the paint by running the car, but I gave it the first couple of heat cycles already and seems to be holding up well. After all that I polished the tips up as good as I could. Looks good to me! Tons better than the janky homemade exhaust I had before. Also, I am so happy with how it sounds!! That's was best part of the whole job. It's so smooth and quiet! I haven't driven it yet, but it sounds a hundred times better than what I had on there before! Way less restrictive too! Getting so close now! All I'm waiting on is the replacement bushings from CJ and the Brakes from FCP. Both should be here this week. Then It'll need an alignment and be back on the road!!
  9. 3 points
    Drove it. With the non stop travel it doesn't happen enough.
  10. 3 points
    On my way home last night
  11. 3 points
    Depends on what type of case we're talking about. In a civil case, the short answer is probably not. If a driver is texting and causes an accident, it's hard to imagine there would be any dispute as to liability. So, if a case like that ever went to trial, the attorney for the driver would admit that the driver was responsible, and the video would probably not come into evidence. The idea is that the video is largely irrelevant because the driver already admitted fault, and to show it would be unfairly prejudicial to the driver because the jury would likely use it against the driver in awarding damages to the injured person. As a plaintiff's attorney, I would try my best to get it into evidence, arguing that it's relevant to show the severity of the collision, injuries, etc., but it probably would not be admitted into evidence. On the other hand, in a criminal case, it is much more likely to come into evidence.
  12. 2 points
    I had more of a chance to mess with this over the weekend. I was pretty sure that the fittings were leaking because the bowls on top of each pump assembly were filling with fuel. Originally I dropped the front of the tank as much as I could by itself but it was still hard to see the smoking gun. As a quick test, I pulled the crossover tube that runs between the 2 pumps and replaced the fittings with the original style. I could pull that tube off and swap them on the bench. Was hoping to get lucky. Put some more gas in and had the same results. This was after about an hour with gas in the tanks: After sleeping on it I decided to go ahead and drop the whole subframe again. I left some things hooked up, but was able to drop it straight down under the car to gain enough clearance to get to the top of the tank if I needed to, as well as see the fuel pump buckets straight on. This time I was smarter about it and made a jig out of 2x4s that fastens to my transmission jack. This allowed me to drop the subframe, tank, and rear section of the exhaust all at the same time. This made things much more efficient and it only took about 2 hours to have the whole thing back out. Finally being able to get a good look at the pumps. I filled the tank back up and crawled back under to watch. Wouldn't you know... The lock rings are actually the culprit. I figured that since the cups were filling, that it was an issue with the lines, but the lock rings were not just leaking on the outside, they were leaking between the senders and rings as well which was filling up the cups. As seen here: I feel kind of dumb about the whole thing. I should have replaced the tank seals and lock rings the first time around, but they looked fine and I've never had an issue with this type of thing before. Also I should have just used the original fuel fittings like others had recommended. I figured that new > old, and maybe they still do, but I don't trust anything down there anymore.. The good news is that with my jig, I'll be able to replace the parts and fill the tank up before re-installing everything. I'll be able to see right away if there is an issue. So.. I've ordered the tank seals and lock rings. They should be here early next week die to Thanksgiving. I'm going to go ahead and swap the outer quick connect fittings to the originals too just to rule out the plastic fittings and also because I don't want to have to notch the new lock rings. This is only a 3 day week and there is no snow scheduled so I'll continue to drive the C70 for now. I had some vacation left over that I'm required to burn before the end of the year, so I'm taking all of next week off. Parts should arrive early in the week so there is absolutely no reason why this shouldn't be fixed and back on the road during that time. I cannot describe how ready I am to be done with this project and move on to other things lol.
  13. 2 points
    Not a problem, it's what this place is all about. We need to have a Saffron V70R meet somewhere- especially before @flyfishing3's sons destroy his.
  14. 2 points
    Kevin come back and post shit so we can yell at you
  15. 2 points
    Not sure this qualifies since it's for my dad's car but I sanded and polished the front bumper and wing today that my dad and I painted for his T5 SE last week. Hopefully we will get them on this weekend! Need to pull the rear bumper back off at some point to sand and polish that as well. We should have just gotten another one to paint lol.
  16. 2 points
    The LDR routine is LCALLED from the running loop. At 6000RPM the running loop is fully executed only 3 times a second. Compound that with the change limitation on the I factor and the boost regulation routine is actually pretty damn slow. With that said, I still think it has a lot of practical use. On most TD04H turbos a properly setup target load map can prevent boost spikes and keep boost equal through gears. The difference in driveability between boost controlled via an MBC vs M4.4 is huge. With throttle position controlling target boost you gain a much more linear, naturally aspirated feeling torque output. To maintain a constant acceleration you don't have to roll off the throttle as the RPMs rise like you do with an MBC. The power output with an MBC is nearly binary, very much all or nothing. You don't have to run the target load setpoint routine, you can just run a straight TCV duty cycle map. Even this yields a much better driving experience than an MBC. Without an adaptive routine the ECU is changing the TCV duty cycle in response to TPS and RPM many times faster than would be needed to avoid a boost overshoot. Boost overshoot using this tuning method would only happen due to poor tuning. @Boxman Have you seen this thread? Many of the boost routine stuff you talked about are covered in there, and in the first 45 or so pages of this thread. I always start a tune without any input from the LDR routine. Once boost is tuned to an acceptable range throughout the RPMs I then build a load map based on logs from the TCV map. I don't think it's a revelatory idea, and I don't know why anyone would tune any other way (although ARD still seems to do it this way, lol). To turn off the LDR routine just set KFP and P-Part to 0. Once I implement the LDR routine I usually never increase the P or I values above 50% of stock. For large turbos I designed a routine which holds the TCV fully shut above 60% throttle, if the current load is 1.3ms under the setpoint in the target load map. While doing this it also zero's out the P and I factor, avoiding adaptive overshoot for when the LDR routine turns back on. I've only used this on larger than TD04 turbos, but it might work well with them as well.
  17. 2 points
    I used INA bearing plates on the C70 the last time I messed with the struts on that car and they are the only brand that lasted over a year without issue. 4 years and counting. On most vehicles, I wouldn't consider anything besides Bilstein. I'm almost a salesman for them it seems. But on P80s, I've read that they actually raise the car up slightly (not what I want in the front). They also supposedly have a pretty "crashy" ride. Granted, I've never used them myself on this platform, but the Konis seem to be preferred as they have adjustable dampening. Since I'm not exactly sure how the rear suspension setup I have will function, I also like the idea of being able to dial in the front to more closely match the rear for firmness and ride quality. We'll see how it goes. So I am pretty excited for last night's progress. I got all of the fluids filled up, got the downpipe installed, Driveshaft installed, and a few other odds and ends. Then I dumped 5 gallons of 93 octane into it and started it up! I let it run for probably 5 minutes to check for leaks and couldn't find any problems at all! Yay! Here is a small video of that: Don't mind all the lights in the cluster, There are no brakes on the car, so that's that one, and the hatch was open.. Not sure about the ABS/TCS lights though. I've rebuilt the module twice, replaced the rear sensors and installed known-good front sensors. Maybe I have to drive it before it'll turn off? Also, I have a question/concern regarding the clearance between the EST downpipe and the fuel lines where they connect to the engine. Keep in mind I swapped to an angle flange turbo on this 1998 so the downpipe now passes to the right side of the driveshaft instead of the left side. The fuel lines going to the engine are also on the right side and very close to the Downpipe. I don't have a picture, but the EST downpipe is only about 3" away from a section of Nylon fuel line. The factory line in this area is nylon so maybe it'll be fine and not cause a problem, but the last thing I want is to melt that line which would then spray directly on the hot downpipe. Has anyone had issues with this? Am I being over anxious about it? I am thinking about making a heat shield out of aluminum between the 2. It should reduce the heat getting to the fuel lines and if something did go wrong, it would keep the fuel spray from hitting the downpipe directly. Am I right to be concerned about this or just being paranoid? I know there are plenty of people running this setup.
  18. 2 points
    Front suspension is all done! The Konis showed up yesterday so I wasted no time. From the bottom: Koni Yellows, IPD springs, IPD upper strut mounts, INA bearing plates, new bump stops, bellows, and hardware throughout. Brakes are getting ordered today. I may fill my 5 gallon gas can tonight and make sure the fuel system is working correctly. Fingers crossed no leaks or problems.
  19. 2 points
    please tell me more
  20. 2 points
  21. 2 points
  22. 2 points
    Interesting, I'm going to keep going down this road. I'm with you, I have certain criteria that must be met before I drive the FG. I guess our real estate boom has been about the last 5 years, so that's what I mean by new found
  23. 1 point
    You should be able to resize images, I don't know that I ever had to have them THAT small. Otherwise, just upload to a service like Google Photos and link them here. Just make sure they're set to public.
  24. 1 point
    . Volvo TSD Road Rally – Fall 2017***All Volvos & Saabs welcome!*** Who's up for a fantastic fall drive? Its hard to believe, but this route tops all our previous drives! If you haven't made it for one of our driving events, you'll be in for a treat... This will be a TSD (Time-Speed-Distance) Road Rally. Each car sets off with obscure route instructions. By following all rules-of-the-road, you will record various way-points, search for landmarks, and answer fun bonus questions. It's like a scavenger hunt in your Volvo! Its fun and easy... no need for prior experience! Don't miss it! Bring along a spouse, friend, or relative to navigate... or pair up with a partner when you arrive. Date: Sun. Nov. 19, 2017 Time: 11:00 am - 3:00 pm Driver / Navigator meeting at: 11:00 am Starting at: Dunkin Donuts, 444 Hartford Turnpike, Vernon, CT 06066 We'll be heading south from Vernon toward the shore covering about 80 miles over 2.5 hours. There is a planned pit stop. We finally congregate at a restaurant in Westbrook for lunch. Get ready for great twisty roads, scenic views, and lots of Volvo fun! Enjoy the ride... Southern New England Chapter | Volvo Club of Americahttps://sites.google.com/site/snevcoa/ .
  25. 1 point
    So you've successfully reflashed an M4.4 ecu for your '95 before this problem started I take it, yes? Has anything else changed? New PC, new OS, etc? Tried a different PC, different cable, etc.? You could PM me a link to your bin and I could take a look if you want? What'd be interesting if I take your bin, load it into TP, not change anything, run the cksum tool, and give it back to you. Actually the more I think about it, wondering if your flashing setup is marginal somehow? You're bench flashing, right? Did you try turning up the supply voltage some? I use 16v; less and I get flashing errs.
  26. 1 point
    Congratulations on completing the project. It's great that you took the time to take pictures and generally share this experience with us. Best of luck with the car. May it bring joy to you for many years to come. About the ABS: Could be as simple as the big connector not making contact. Either because it's not locked in right, a terminal got damaged (bent / corrosion) or a broken wire. Damage to the pump wiring due to corrosion/aging of the insulation is also a possibility.
  27. 1 point
    you laugh because you know he’s right Mike
  28. 1 point
    There is no LSD option for automatics.
  29. 1 point
  30. 1 point
    I wouldn't say no to some pictures of vader and the 780
  31. 1 point
    Oh and also regarding this, I mean to only do it that way when you're going to allow knock for research purposes anyway. When done, obviously set them back to default values for proper failsafe behavior. I have not used this method myself, but just figured this could be a useful approach if you want to quickly tune ignition and utilize the features the ECU provides to do so. If knock-detect is as accurate as @Piet says (on-par or even superior to listening in with a headset), it should be fine for the most part.
  32. 1 point
    Yes it's the 540i Maf housing with the Volvo sensor fitted to it.i do want to run an air box but for the minute this will have to do till I get something sorted.
  33. 1 point
    Hi guys I'm from Ireland and iv got a red 855 R currently running a 19t KL intercooler and bmw 540i airflow housing on green injectors with a base map on a 4.4
  34. 1 point
    Alright guys. I got myself an M66C AWD, and my 2000 RN from a V70R ended up having a bad rod bearing, so that's $600 down the drain. I got myself a 1999 RN from a V70R, literally the worst RN for me, still has hydraulic lifters and not nearly what i want with the 2002-2003 RN block but it was very cheap. I have a TDO4H-16T to start with and a TD05H-20G will be in order when i have the 2002-2003 RN, i'll probably crank the power untill i blow up the 99RN and see what the failure mode is. Im real excited to get this project started, i'll start a build thread soon. But i have a few questions for the smart guys, i have conflicting reports from different sources. 1. Are the 2002-2003 RN HPT engines the same as the 2002-2003 RN LPT engines in all aspects except compression ratio? 2. Do they have the 147mm Rods? If so a bump from 8.5:1 to 9:1 would be real nice especially if i run E85, lower BSFC is nice to have as less air and fuel is required to make the same power, meaning a smaller faster spooling turbo could be used, band-aids like water spray or meth injection are less necessary, and smaller/cheaper injectors could be used. I mean, SAAB had a 16V 2.0L 4 cyl with a 9.1:1 CR with a T3 turbo making 198HP in the highest trim with a intercooler the size of a postage stamp.... IN 1988!!!
  35. 1 point
    I would like to thank Mike and the others for the insurance suggestion. Several groups have listened. The NRA and USCCA have both announced net revenue on their insurance programs. Lets just say that it is well into the millions and they are using it to lobby against you. Kind of amazing that they took so long to recognize this massive potential revenue stream.
  36. 1 point
  37. 1 point
    Yes. I've been toying with and wanted to see someone running a fully painted XC rear bumper for a while. Super clean & subtle.
  38. 1 point
    Looks awesome Dan!
  39. 1 point
    Got my winter setup ready this weekend... Here we go:
  40. 1 point
    I was having issues with my phone early in the weekend so I didn't get many pictures. I wrapped up several small time consuming things. Got the turbo on and all lines hooked up. Upgraded the angle gear vent to the newer style, changed the pinion seal, and added a drain. Then installed it and filled with fresh fluid. I didn't get pictures of that stuff. There are pictures/write-ups online of what others have done for the angle gear vent and drain. I changed the hose clamps that everyone is concerned about with some that are smooth on the inside. They aren't OEM or blue, but they are stainless and will work plenty fine. Also reworked the zip ties to relieve some tension and installed some sheathing/loom around the nylon lines where they make contact with anything. The big accomplishment was getting the subframe/gas tank assembly back in the car! I still need to mount the trailing arms to the car, install the toe arms when they arrive, hook up the fuel lines and wiring, etc.. But the main mounting points for the subframe, gas tank straps and VC are all done! After the progress on the rear, I needed a change of scenery so I went back up front and re-installed the intake tube, filter tube, etc. also installed the FCP silicone intercooler hose kit. I didn't realize how bad the originals were until I removed them. They were hard, cracking, brittle, and falling apart. Makes me wonder how they held boost at all! I also finished up the alternator refresh and got that installed. Besides the downpipe/exhaust, heat shield, and battery, most of the work in the engine bay is done. I had to steal the alternator from the V70R and use it on the C70 temporarily because I had to get it back on the road right away. Decided to try my hand at rebuilding the coupe alternator instead of buying a new one. If I had to do this again, I would have just bought a Bosch unit from FCP with a lifetime warranty, but it was a good learning opportunity. Ended up changing the regulator, "slip ring post", and rear bearing. Upon disassembly, it became obvious why the alternator wasn't working. the lower contact on the slip ring post was worn completely through the copper which in turn destroyed the brush on the regulator. It tested good after re-assembly, so we'll see how long it holds up. If it quits again, I'm buying a new one. Lastly, while I haven't installed it yet, I did receive my remanufactured driveshaft from Colorado Driveshaft. It looks solid although their paint finish was a bit thick and sloppy. Oh well. If it works and doesn't cause me problems, then I'm happy. Sent the core back this morning. They were fast and hassle free. Would recommend again. So... getting closer and closer. Plenty of work still to do but I see the light at the end of the tunnel. The only things left are: -Hook up fuel lines -Hook up brake lines -Install driveshaft -Install rear bumper -Refurb, fit and Install exhaust. -Build and install front strut assemblies once struts arrive (any day), then re-assemble front knuckles/suspension -Install brakes all around.
  41. 1 point
  42. 1 point
    Idler / tensioner serpentine pulley.
  43. 1 point
    I would go with plan B.
  44. 1 point
    Man, that's looking great so far! Subscribed
  45. 1 point
    New found? Has something changed recently? Nashville has had bad traffic every time I've visited over the last 5 years.
  46. 1 point
    1996 means OBDII, unless you don't have emission, get a 1995 or prior.
  47. 1 point
    Figured out a big part of the issue, and it's really really silly; The vacuum hose to my CBV was too long and thin, impeding vacuum flow when lifting throttle and making the CVB 'slow' - as a result, it simply would not open in certain cases, resulting in flow reversal through the compressor. Used (a lot) thicker vacuum hose, car drive-ability changed drastically.
  48. 1 point
    Is this even a question? Of course I was. My favourite TNAs and Victoria's Secret Pink hoodie too.
  49. 1 point
    Volvo moccasins? Would they be appropriate for say...June 2018?
  50. 1 point