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Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/23/2019 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    I've been working hard on the R all week. Strut mounts and spring seats will arrive today, so when those get here I'll be replacing those along with the struts (Koni STR.T), control arms, tie rods, and stainless brake lines. I also have a new fuel filter which I'll replace soon. Yesterday I replaced the nivomats with a good used set, the car is sitting level again! I also adjusted the e-brake shoes so hopefully once I tighten up the cable at the handle a little bit it'll hold the car finally. I also rebuilt the driver side axle the other day just to have the outer CV joint pop out on my test drive. I'm going to pull that back out again today and hammer that joint in the rest of the way. That outer joint is a real pain. Then last week I replaced the radiator and upper hose. The car finally holds coolant... and my heater hose rebuild/improvement/junction box bypass worked beautifully! VIDA/DiCE is on the way from China, and once I get that I'll be getting the tune from Hilton. Also need to order tires for my Propus Cs. I can't wait to finally drive this car, it's been a long time coming!
  2. 2 points
  3. 2 points
  4. 2 points
    So why don't you drive it? Good lord people still say "caRs". That is the dumbest volvo thing I can think of. Doing the pcv on Katherine's XC90. I can't even. And my bmw is slowly going back together.
  5. 2 points
    Yesterday I did an “autopsy” on the B5234T8 to 1) find the source of the knocking noise, and 2) find what could have caused the noise to occur. This was really fun and quite satisfying in the end. I didn’t take any pictures of the first couple steps but I stripped the remaining ancillary bits off, pulled the cylinder head, and removed the oil pan. After removing the oil pan, I found a failed o-ring at the connection between the oil pan and the crankcase. With close to 240,000 miles on the engine, I have no record of these o-rings being replaced. At this point I suspect the o-ring failure led to reduced oil pressure throughout the engine and insufficient lubrication to the bearings. Note that at no point prior to this engine being removed did the stock “oil pressure warning” instrument cluster light come on to alert me of a problem. Next, I started to remove the rods and pistons to examine the bearings and see what stories they had to share. As it turns out, they had quite a tale to tell! I’m about halfway through the process and remove the cap from rod #3 to find the bearing is spun 90 degrees around. That’s a sure sign that things have gone catastrophically wrong! This confirms my suspicions that it was rod-knock that I had been hearing a not an issue with the top end/valve train. I go to remove each half of the bearing and in doing so, I find an even more dramatic failure. One side of the bearing had fractured into 2 separate pieces! Now, I’m not a professional mechanic, but I can assume that’ll cause a few problems The crank journal on cyl 3 was gouged pretty deeply The intact half of the #3 rod bearing was worn down pretty dramatically - that surface should be silver, not copper. At least 1 full layer of metal had worn away from the bearing surface! This wear is caused by lack of oil supply and is how the big end of the rod has enough space to “knock” as it rotates around the crank. Cylinders 2 and 4 were showing signs of damage to the bearings as well. I suspect the both cylinders experienced low oil pressure, but not as low as cylinder 3 so they did not fail outright, but would have been an issue had this engine continued to be run/driven. Here’s a shot of my “coroner’s table” while I was working While I’m not happy that engine needed to be replaced, I am happy that I was proven correct in my initial diagnosis and it was fun to be able to take the time and really understand both how and why this engine failed so I can learn from this experience!
  6. 2 points
    Not Volvo, but good winter shenanigans. The Snowpocylpse didn’t materialize in Portland, but there was plenty up at Browns Camp, Tillamook State Forest
  7. 1 point
  8. 1 point
    Lol, I'm lucky if I even look at my cars anymore (apart from my DD XC). Kind of stinks.
  9. 1 point
    Mostly just driving it every day. This photo is from a few weeks ago, but nothing has changed. I washed all the salt and sand in the picture off, only for it to get reapplied a few days later when it snowed again. It needs the angle gear replaced and the driveshaft reinstalled because FWD is getting really old. Oh, and I need to replace the drivers front wheel speed sensor.
  10. 1 point
    looked at it yesterday. got sad.
  11. 1 point
  12. 1 point
    Yup; that's what I'd recommend too.. http://vasttuning.com/
  13. 1 point
    with that user name and those black sheets you should offer them as 'sanitized' as well 😉 these complete the front end of any x70! Good luck with the sale!
  14. 1 point
    You're planning on plug-and-play?! You know the T5 ecu is mapped for 8.5:1 compression ratio, but your GLT engine is 9.0:1, yes? You realize while that will give you more boost, knock (and therefore knock induced ignition retard) will come along with it? If that's what you want, how close is your nearest pic-n-pull? Found this one: https://www.picknpull.com/vehicle_details.aspx?VIN=YV1LS5347W1425876 The ecu out of that should be what you want; they usually get around $60 unless you go on discount day..
  15. 1 point
    There is no current way to disable the immobilizer. The 608 file does not have the immobiliser 'enabled' as standard.
  16. 1 point
    Getting more stuff back together post 'heat shielding' everything down behind the engine. Removed the rear water pipe to give a bit of a bend to the turbo return line and as a result I made a new leak =[ Seems like it was difficult to refit and that lead to something with the o-ring inside there getting messed up, so I'm going to use a stop gap solution for now until the whole assembly comes back out again for a major planned refresh. Gold looks nice though ❤️
  17. 1 point
    Transmission failure is pretty common in 01-02 Volvos with the 5spd auto. You could try changing the fluid, but be prepared for the worst.
  18. 1 point
    Yeah, I think the 99 XC should be the same as the 99 R angle gear I have in there right now. Last night I finished assembling everything and got it ready to start up. It fired on the first try, and no leaks either! I was (still am, to be honest) ecstatic. This project was a lot more involved that I originally expected. I spent all my free time working on it over the last week and that took a toll on me both physically and mentally. I’m really happy it’s done. I’ll drive it home tonight once I finish cleaning my tools and spare parts up
  19. 1 point
    For info if anyone wants to upgrade to e-throttle, using a standalone ECU: Ideally you use the throttle pedal from a P2 vehicle. The P80 e-throttle pedal sucks in the way that it uses CAN to send its backup signal whereas the P2 one sends the main signal as 0-5V and the backup as a PWM signal. And the nice thing is: the main body of the pedal unit has exactly the same housing and mounting points as the P80 one so it bolts right up. All you have to to is to remove (destroy) the plastic pedal from the P2 unit and put on the steel pedal from a P80 unit (from junkyard/ebay) and you're good to go. That's how I did it on mine. As throttle body you can use whatever you want. Ideally a Volvo/Bosch one. There are also plenty VAG units out there, e.g. with 82mm if you want a bigger one. Gotta love DBW ;)
  20. 1 point
  21. 1 point
    That really got to you last year, sorry about that. I stopped caring once I found out how small-minded the prick was behind them.
  22. 1 point
    what Gary means by no free shit for anyone includes the department of Education good to know you want the rest of the US to be the shining example of academia that resides in your home state and the surrounding areas. Republicans have done a great job with education down there
  23. 1 point
    Please, let us know when Trump decides to be president.
  24. 1 point
    I know this is for non-car photography, but here are a couple I've taken with my new D750.
  25. 1 point
    Remember, start basic injection quantity is given in raw injection time, in ms. So, when you increase injector size you should decrease these values in relation to the increase in injector flow. In my experience the relationship is not 1 to 1, it is more like 65%. For example if you're upgrading to greens, which flow ~28% more than whites, you would multiply your basic injection values by .82 (1.28*.65). I tried decreasing basic injection values below stock to increase fuel consumption and gas oil fouling, but found that starting was significantly harder.