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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/30/2018 in all areas

  1. As requested by several people, I will keep a build log of my engine here. There's a few things I plan on doing with this, some of which will be revealed later It all started a few years ago when I decided I wanted to do a very quick build on the original engine of my '94 onyx green volvo 850 t5. The plan was to just fit some h-beam rods, and new big end bearings. Some time later the plan evolved into using the rods to build the broken RN engine that came out of our '00 c70 which had a missing big end bearing. I picked up the idea to hone the cylinders, and fit new piston rings as well. I think everybody knows where this is going... In the end (after saving, and trading parts for almost 3 years) it turned into a full rebuild. So some specs of the engine then: -rebored '00 bt5234T3 single exhaust vvt engine -OS1 Mahle pistons -cx racing H-beam rods (139,5 mm) -later lighter crank, as the original was shot because of the missing bearing. -All new Volvo bearings -R manifold -clutchnet fiber carbon friction plate combined with a volvo 850r pressure plate. -lightened flywheel I will first swap it in, while keeping the stock hardware for now. Somewhere in spring I will upgrade the turbo to a Holset hx30w, and add some more toys. First I (painstakingly) polished the combustion chambers, and smoothed out some of the casting flash in the intake runners. This was a lot of work, but it's shiny at least, hopefully it will reduce knock susceptibility: Here's a phone pic of the engine block right after the rebore: So after thoroughly cleaning all of the parts, the time came to mount the crank and the main bearings. Here the crank is already in, and I'm rolling on the liquid (well more like chewing gum like) gasket on the intermediate section: Fitting the main bearings shells in the intermediate section: Of course the bearing surfaces where liberally oiled before final assembly. This is how it sits at the moment, the crank is rotating perfectly with no binding or irregularities: Furthermore I attached the cx-racing h-beams to the mahle pistons today: I took the time to weigh both the rods and the pistons before assembling them. The pistons are dead on, and two of the rods where +-1 gram lighter than the others. Negligable differences I would say. I will weigh them again before I mount them to position them in their final order. That's it for now. Tomorrow I have to get the car itself through the Dutch equivalent of annual smog testing. Once that is over with I'm picking up the head from the shop (I had it professionally cleaned), and dropping off the flywheel to be lightened. Saturday I hope to torque down some arp big end bolts.
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  2. Didn't have a lot of time to work on my engine, but I got some things done. I fitted the remaining 2 pistons, so the engine now has 5 pistons again! ^^ I also noticed a little valve in VIDA which is located in the sump. It has part no 463963. It's in the oil filter area, and its function was quite mysterious to me. After some searching around I found out that it's function is to quickly vent the air from the filter after an oil change. If oil then tries to push through it it has to close up. If it's worn, or if there's any debris stuck in the valve, it could cause to valve to remain open, and bleed oil back into the pan. This results in a loss of oil pressure, which is something I defininately don't want. The advice is to just replace it. It costs about 30 euro. I decided to take it apart to take a look at how it functions though: As you can see, you have to drive out the little pin, after which the plunger and the spring will come out. I inspected the plunger, and the inside of the valve for wear, and it all seemed to be in good condition. After cleaning everything thoroughly, I put it back together and the plunger seems to move smoothely, without any binding. I'm feeling confident that it will function just fine. Just a little bit more info about its operation: You can't close it by blowing through it, as the spring is keeping it open. It only closes if a fluid flows into the valve with sufficient pressure. If the spring were to weaken, it wouldn't result in loss of oil pressure, as the valve would only close easier in that case. If there's debris in your oil, the valve can get stuck open by the debris. Another reason to run good quality oil, and keep an eye on your oil changing frequency. I also removed the old seals from the tube in the sump, and from the oil pickup: The two seals on the right came from the tube in the sump,and they were the same shape at some point in time... The right most one was very loose around the tube, and also quite loose in its seat. I think these may have been responsible for killing this engine. I can't say for sure, as the bigend bearing was already shot when we bought the car it came from. One thing is for sure, these must absolutely be replaced at a rebuild, and maybe even earlier, or they can cause loss of oil pressure. To close off, a shot of the reassembled pan, with the valve installed on the bottom left on top of the oil filter housing:
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