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Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/24/2020 in Posts

  1. 6 points
    Hi all, OG T5power aka Goldmember here, back again. Got out of my 2013 S60 T5 AWD and my 2006 Lexus LS430, and bought a 2018 S90 T6 Inscription in late June. I also had it Polestar Optimised. This is my favorite vehicle I have ever owned, and is well worth the upgrade over the S60 I had. I added a V90 R-Design lower valance, R-Design grille, HEICO SPORTIV Springs & Block spacers, H&R 20mm spacers, those were needed to add the freshly-powdercoated 20" Cratus wheels I had done. a few other minor things like tint, debadged partially, and blacking out the window trim. Enjoy! Regards, -Corey
  2. 6 points
  3. 5 points
  4. 4 points
  5. 3 points
  6. 3 points
    Another Killboy pic.
  7. 3 points
    damn - never knew that was what you did... i knew you traveled a lot tho I have friends all over the place on this... some that refuse to wear masks even in stores and make a big stink and some that wont even come over to my house to have socially distanced drinks in the driveway. just to add to what I said earlier... im nervous. i dont want to get sick. i never get sick. i go years without getting a basic cold. im healthy, but the underlying heart and lung issues some people get after the fact are fucking scary. i want things back to normal too... but unlike most amongst my millennial brethren i know it take a little work and discipline to get back to normal here... it seems my age bracket is really messing things up lately regarding covid with the highest transmission rates etc. (20-30 years old) and i know exactly why... they got their photos on ig of their masks and they are just tired of it now, they dont want to do this anymore, and mom and dad cant fix this problem for them... they cant go on their vanity trips, they didnt save any money these past 10 years from getting out of school, the list goes on. Did i ever say i hate my generation? GET THE FUCK OFF OF MY LAWN TOO.
  8. 3 points
    I can't help but think how different the responses would have been ten years ago when the forum was busier and most of us had less of a....filter.
  9. 3 points
    Your stock C70 is not fast. I'm not entirely sure what you expected the forum's response was going to be when you made a post about street racing at every red light? The level of butt hurt after two posts that weren't even insulting is tremendous though. I'd love to see how off the rails you'd go if someone said something that was actually mean.
  10. 3 points
    VS IS BACK! YES! Dude dont bother racing your unmodded 22 year old front wheel drive volvo from stop lights... especially in your rainy state. im not going to tell you its unsafe or for kids... you are just gonna lose, a lot.
  11. 3 points
    Wow this guy IS that fucking dumb, I win the bet guys
  12. 3 points
    I can't blame you for getting side-tracked by the new truck - that LX570 looks really cool, those are super nice. My buddy picked up a J200 Land Cruiser (I forget which year) a little ways back and it's a really impressive vehicle. Yeah, I was really surprised by how much it helped out. Yeah, I'm running the 99 transmission mount on with the bracket Hussein made. Thanks! Yeah, I've been really impressed with the M12 impact so far. I use it for just about anything on the car I can. To pick up where I left off on my last post, I replaced the OEM battery cables with some upgraded cables I made myself - what I did is not very different than the "Big 3" upgrade described in this write-up. Most of you probably know that the stock cables are notorious for voltage drop as they age, especially on the 99/00 models. While I never experienced any voltage drop issues on this car, with a stereo system upgrade in the future, it was a good time to upgrade. To start, I removed the stock cables from the factory loom, which was the most tedious part of the whole process, and used them as templates to order new bulk cable and battery terminals from KnuKonceptz. I used 1/0 AWG Kolossus Flex for the main alternator/starter/battery cables, 4 AWG cable for the B+ cable to the main fusebox, and 8 AWG for the ground straps on the cylinder head. Given the stock alternator is rated at 125 amps, I used a reference chart from Crutchfield to verify the wire size for each new cable would meet/exceed the ampacity of the stock cables. The new alternator/starter/battery cables basically follow the stock routing, but are outside of the main engine harness - while the Kolossus Flex cable is flexible enough to follow the stock routing, unfortunately there was not enough room in the stock plastic housing for the new cables to fit. The cables are terminated with crimped-on ring terminals and adhesive-lined heat shrink boots. I used a pair of Bassik battery terminals - I'm not 100% sold on continuing to use them due to the space constraints caused by the stock airbox, but they were the best available choice in terms on physical size and still offering a variety of set screws to work with the ring terminals on the cables. I may try a pair of top-post "mil-spec" terminal from Napa at some point in the future. The 4 AWG wire fit fit neatly into the stock rubber boot and loom at the main fusebox. Form a 90* bend in the ring terminal inside the fusebox allowed it to join right up to the stock terminal post and keep everything clean/stock-looking. I replaced the 2 braided ground straps that run from the cam cover to the chassis with 8 AWG. And last but not least, I ran a length of 1/0 AWG from the battery to the truck to supply power a stereo amplifier and AC power inverter. The 1/0 fits through the drivers side accessory grommet, but just barely. I wanted to keep the "wiring train" rolling, so I ran all the wiring for my AEM WBO2 and boost gauges. During the engine swap last year, I had a friend add a bung to the stock downpipe. I am planning on adding a 3" downpipe in the near future, but it doesn't hurt to keep an eye on the AFRs in the meantime. Since there wasn't room in the accessory pass-through, I ran the WB wires through the firewall grommet on the drivers side of the car, then through an open spot on the fusebox to get behind/underneath the dashboard. The boost gauge and oil pressure gauge wiring fits neatly through the accessory pass-through with the stereo power cable. I'm using the previous-gen AEM UEGO, which utilizes a Bosch LSU 4.2 sensor. The current gen uses the newer Bosch LSU 4.9 sensor, and is much faster/more accurate. Conveniently, the LSU 4.2 sensor is the same as the stock front O2 sensor, and the plugs are even identical: This means I can quickly swap sensors between the ECU and the AEM gauge to troubleshoot if I suspect there's an issue with one of them. I made a sub-harness that connects to the stock accessory connector to supply power to all 3 A-pillar gauges (WBO2, boost, and future oil pressure): I replaced the stock accessory connector with a 6 pin weatherpack connector, then ran my relay so that everything is ignition-switched while ensuring there was adequate power supply (10 amps for WB02, <1 amp each for the other gauges). Each gauge plugs into one of the 2-pin weatherpack connectors, and allows me to easily remove one or all the gauges if needed. The junctions are properly parallel-spliced and heat-shrunk. I don't use solder for anything on a car - crimped joints are much more tolerant of the vibration that a car generates and will be more reliable in the long run. Using the proper crimp tool, weatherpack terminals are inexpensive, reliable and easy to terminate: You can save yourself the trouble and buy a pre-made harness from @JVC that plugs right into the stock accessory connector. I installed mine a few days before he put the F/S ad up, otherwise I would've bought one. One day this summer, I ran some errands, went back into my apartment, then came back out to finish unloading the car and saw this mess The piece of heater hose I used to delete the PCV banjo bolt system had failed and was leaking coolant. I pulled it apart, and went to install the stock hose/banjo bolt assembly and ran into a small snag: I'm running an 04 engine, but used the 00 thermostat housing so I can replace the thermostat without needing to remove the whole housing. As it turns out, the 04 PCV coolant hose needed to be trimmed to fit on the 00 housing. Once the hose was cut and the orientation adjusted, it was an easy install. Since I had previously deleted/blocked off the banjo bolt, I took the opportunity to install the updated banjo bolt with the internal check valve, PN 31325709. While I was in there, I replaced the thermostat and put a new o-ring on, and replaced the Reinz thermostat housing gasket with an OEM one. The Reinz gasket had slowly leaked ever since I installed it, so I'm glad that leak is gone. There's factory TSB that advises using 2 gaskets in that location to prevent leaks, but mine has been okay so far. I've got spare gaskets sitting on the shelf if problems arise. While I had the intake manifold off and everything torn apart, I replaced the worn-out vacuum check valves with new OEM valves (PN: 1275226 - thanks @B Mac) and most of the rubber vacuum lines with new silicone lines from FlexTech. The lines I replaced are the TCV lines, CBV line, and EVAP purge valve line. It may not seem like much, but I had been ignoring the vacuum lines since I swapped this engine into the car in January 2019 and I'm really glad I got that sorted out. Here's the stock P80 ME7 vacuum line diagram for reference: I used constant-tension clamps from Bel-Metric to keep each hose securely in place - no more messing around with zip ties to hold those lines on. It also gives the aftermarket lines a nice OEM+ appearance that I appreciate. I used several sizes of clamp based on the various OD sizes of the different hoses. I did not buy the CTC pliers, instead I used a pair of needle-nose vice grips. The vice grips made it easy to lock the clamp fully open, slide it into place, then slowly release the clamp in the orientation I wanted. Each clamp was placed so that future access with the needle-nose vice grips will be as easy as possible. Up next will be the story of my injector woes
  13. 3 points
    How about an OG Zoom?
  14. 2 points
    A little late, but here's my 2018 S90 T6 Inscription with Polestar Optimisation. I bought it in June, and have since lowered it on HEICO springs, blacked out the window trim, V90 R-Design Grille and lower valance, tint, partial debadge, freshly powdercoated Cratus 20's, and H&R 20mm spacers. I LOVE this car. I'm so glad I bought it. I traded in the S60 T5 AWD. I still have the BBS's waiting to go on the S90 in the spring, I think.
  15. 2 points
    Bud ignore these fools. I suggest you do the caf mod. What the caf mod is is super simple really. Go find those like old school metal cafeteria treys, the thicker the better for sure here. put them under the rear wheels, and rip that Ebrake as far as it'll go. Put it in drive and proceed to slide that ass all over the parking lot until the pans run through. Thank me later bud.
  16. 2 points
    Pretty fall colors.
  17. 2 points
    End of the day, there are people that drive on torn boots for a long time without issues, but it can become an issue. Beginning of the day, its a relatively simple fix, axles are roughly $40-100 each. (try to find OEM remans if you don't want to do them again in a couple years and to avoid possible headaches of aftermarket fitment) If you have a jack, jackstands, axle nut socket, breaker bar, and a couple wrenches/sockets you should be golden.
  18. 2 points
    I race, I don't street race. Easily 12 pages.
  19. 2 points
    A few highlights from the most recent 40 or so pages
  20. 2 points
    You’re obviously either 17 or just fucking dumb maybe both, time will tell. Keep up the great work
  21. 2 points
    First drive went well except some small issues with the rear cv boots...
  22. 1 point
    Love it Corey - you must be super happy with how it looks.
  23. 1 point
  24. 1 point
    You could also be noticing something that was always there, you are just more attentive to it now. As long as the idle is smooth, you are probably fine.
  25. 1 point
    With the rest of those parts, you DEFINITELY want a custom tune. Unfortunately you can't just swap around ECUs on the ME7 cars.
  26. 1 point
    anyone had it? We are on DefCon 3 at our house. I know a few people that have had it, but no lose of life.
  27. 1 point
    It is difficult to get decent quality aftermarket axles. Replacing the boots is by far the cheapest and most effective way to go here. It is a somewhat slow and messy job though.
  28. 1 point
    put the car up on stands or your jack. put your hands on wheel at 9oclock and 3oclock. wiggle wheel back and forth. then try same at 12 and 6 and look for wheel wiggling. if it seems loosey goosey you may need to replace sooner than later. the wheel will move some since there is no pressure on steering system.
  29. 1 point
    good info. If you no longer see grease coming out, that's when to get nervous. check for wheel play often if you plan to ride dirty.
  30. 1 point
    Anytime I see someone with COVID I try to race them at the next redlight.
  31. 1 point
    Oh we so need to keep this going LMAO... Time to hunt photos while im on my Q3 status call tomorrow
  32. 1 point
    Power steering return line is now replaced! Which is a fucking hard job with the engine in, let me tell you. The swaybar is in the way of the nut that keeps the line in the rack. So, the swaybar had to be dismounted and swung out as far as possible, which was about 1 1/2". Took all damn day, but got it done. Also re dipped the STI lip for and preped the front bumper to be installed. Almost ready for a test drive around the block.
  33. 1 point
    I can't think of anyone I know personally who has had it. I always wear a mask outside. I work in Chick Fil A's all around the country and still haven't had it. (knock on wood) Been tested a few times. I even wear my mask when working outside mounting wifi antennas, digital menu boards and cameras by myself. I'm not too worried about it personally. Just trying to do my part to not give it to anyone else.
  34. 1 point
    I think I need some wider turbo tubes. Also, what are turbo tubes?
  35. 1 point
    Forgot I preordered a Funko back in May. It came in yesterday apparently. Dog for size reference.
  36. 1 point
    We've all had it at work. Everyone had a different level, but yet no one got like deathly sick. At worst, the owner had the runs.
  37. 1 point
    well the debate was a complete shit show.
  38. 1 point
    Ok, on the Menu bar goto 'XDF>View/Edit XDF Header Info' then click the 'Checksums' tab. There should be a checksum listed called 'Checksum plugin by Simply Volvo' Click 'Edit Selected' and see if it looks like this:
  39. 1 point
    Hey H, I did not increase the the ID of the senders (I did cut a chunk out of the sender though). Just used 5/16 -> 3/8 quick connect 90 elbows. I don' think increasing the sender lines is going to significantly lower siphon pump back pressure. The DW300 (340LPH) is just too much fuel volume for the siphon and I have talked to others who have had issues with not being able to go below 40-45 psi fuel pressure. Even with the stock 255 I bet the back pressure is still going to be 25-30 psi. I am simply going to PWM the intank pump and add a pressure sensor to the surge tank and used closed loop control to target X surge tank pressure (the same as siphon back pressure). At idle I will probably only really need 15-20% duty cycle. By targeting siphon back pressure I can effectively fill the surge tank with only as much fuel as it needs at a given moment to maintain proper siphon back pressure and still have it remain effective. I did not know there was a different bracket. I noted the PN and will switch to them next time I have the subframe out. The intercooler & angle gear elbow are not as low as they appear. The AG 4an 90 actually sits slightly ahove the bottom of the oil pan and the front 850R bumper sits much lower than the intercooler outlet. Been running for 5 years no with no clearance issues. On a side note, found the proper boot and got it ordered up... hopefully with the dampening set to max and bump stops I wont have anymore issues.
  40. 1 point
    Matt - did you also increase the ID of the rigid & plastic lines inside the senders? I had done that, along with cutting a chunk out of the main sender housing to allow more rapid drawback into the tank. Don't solder any harness connections moving forward - crimp all new terminals. I hope that IC is not as low as it appears! Definitely issues arise when running lowered suspension w/AWD. On my C30, over heavy highway bumps the ear on the CV Oetiker clamp hit the fuel tank filler hose - fortunately didn't cut through the hose in my case. My dampers were also set too soft, and I had to raise the spring seat 1" Good deduction on the boot OD & damper settings. Did you buy the later AWD front subframe tie brackets (the triangular ones)? They are more substantial than other model & earlier AWD version. 9480184 I'd look for a lower profile elbow for the AWD sump - that just looks ripe for snagging & ripping off if you go over any road debris.
  41. 1 point
    I have met 4 in person. It has been a while though.
  42. 1 point
    From now until Wednesday, September 23rd, FCP Euro is running a Community Appreciation Sale offering three ways to save. -Use the code "TEAMFCPEURO" to get 5% off every order and 10% off orders over $499 (excluding MAP items). -Follow @fcpeuro on Instagram as we’re giving away $100 in customer credit every day! Comment on a giveaway post to enter. Head to coupons.fcpeuro.com for more!
  43. 1 point
    Correct, those Torx screws are for checking valve lash with the cam cover on. The early engines had them and the late ones did not, I'm not sure when the change occurred. Yes your 03 head should be solid lifters.
  44. 1 point
    I need to document the modifications made to the car and drivetrain before I forget them. Below is everything that has been done to the chassis, engine, transmission, brakes, turbo, etc.: Engine: B5244T3 LPT Block from a '02 S60, Shimmed cylinders, B&B, Ported and Polished, matched Intake and Exhaust Mani ports ENEM Sport Cams CXRacing Forged H-Beam Rods Custom Wesco Pistons with 25mm wrist pins APR Head bolts MPRE Oil Gate Evan's Waterless Coolant converted "Green" 450cc Injectors installed, 650cc Injectors ready for fuel pump upgrade Snabb Intake spacer and Exhaust gasket Samco Silicone Hoses IPD Upper Engine Stabilizer New Bosch Starter XMODEX Rebuilt Throttle Body (Contact-less Position Sensor) Turbo: 20T Turbo with 11 Blade Impeller and 11 Blade Compressor, balanced Intake: Snabb Intake pipe Custom designed 3" Core Intercooler. Custom Pipe routing with Methanol Injection. K&N Intake Mini Filter and Housing Exhaust: Japanafold Exhaust Manifold (from a 2004 S60R) EuroSport Tuning Downpipe EuroSport Tuning Cat Back Dual outlet full Exhaust Ceramic Coating (black with silver tips) New O2 Sensors with spacers. Transmission: M66 from a 04 S60 AWD, refreshed with new bearings, seals and coupler Quaife LSD Kalmar Union Single Mass Flywheel AP Racing Clutch P2 V70R Slave Clutch Suspension: Ohlins 8-way adjustable shocks (front) TME Spring set for Ohlins springs (front and rear) Rear Ohlins shocks need repair TME Strut Tower Brace IPD Swaybar, Front IPD HD Swaybar Links Chassis: New Heater Core and lines Fully replaced rear drive shaft with new center carrier bearing New fog lights GlowShift Oil Pressure Gauge Cooling Mist Methanol Gauge Armrest, Shift boot, Steering Wheel and e-brake boot all custom made to match seats Manual Ball Shifter with Shift pattern and Button IPD Mesh Black Gille 70 Series (no longer available from IPD) WRX-STI Front Lip Sound deadening installed under all panels and rear hatch. Wheels & Tires: Ronal R39 "Ferris" 18x8, powder coated Dark Grey with paint to match center caps (currently only have 1) Bridgestone Potenza Pole Position XL 235/40R-18 tires Brakes: Brembo/IPD Big Brake Kit, all fresh rubber, powder coated Bright Yellow. 330mm High Carbon Discs front Stainless Steel Brake Lines front and rear Porterfield R1-4 Carbon/Kevlar street compound pads I'm sure there's more and I'll add it as I remember. It seems like a lot, but also not that much...
  45. 1 point
    Damn, getting the band back together and shit.
  46. 1 point
    Just picked up an 08 Lexus LX570 for a family hauler, about two months ago. Already it's been through a few iterations...wheels, tires, spacers, etc. First step was throwing those horrid chrome rims away... Next step was cleaning up and painting an old set of LandCruiser rims, and getting some decent tires on them. 1.25" wheel spacers on all 4 corners. Rims were painted using Superwrap 'Gun Metal'. So far so good. Active Height Control suspension is cool. And finally some late model rims for daily street use.
  47. 1 point
    A couple years ago, someone who knows far more about audio equipment than I do told me that the SC-900/901 were designed for tape and that I should buy some cassette tapes. My memories of the sound quality from tape growing up in the 90 and 00s were pretty bad so I didn't really take it that seriously. Well about a month ago I was surfing ebay and decided I was gonna buy a tape and ended up with that Flecktones album on the right. I'm up to about 10 now lol. If you have a 901 and aren't using the tape deck, you're missing out. I guess we must have never had a decent tape deck when I was growing up in the 90s because this is amazing. Sounds absolutely fantastic on the stock V70 EQ curve and just slight adjustments to bass/treble as needed for a given tape. I've never had car audio that sounds so good with such little fuss.
  48. 1 point
  49. 1 point
    if you only knew how many times people have associated me with that picture.....
  50. 1 point
    Ok so it's not as 'dumb' as one led to believe. I'll just get an ebay one, this is not gonna work period. So, the protocol used by our ECU is ISO9141-2? Because the OBDLink does in principle support it.