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Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/11/2019 in Posts

  1. 3 points
    Finally finished up last night.. After getting it together and finding the thermostat housing was leaking like crazy. So pulled the ps pump yet again etc etc. After some gasket repair and couple more hours hoods on, axles nuts tight, and got to run it throught heat cycle. Was about midnight by the time I finished all in all took about 50 hours for full rn swap. Mind you was my first motor remove/replace ever and most my auto mechanical skills startes with this car in June. Was going ti throw on a 19t straight flange they have all over ebay but the 04 t9 motor came with a 60k mile 16t turbo. I'll drain oil tonight after few heat cycles add some more coolant and get some data logs for aaron. I ran wires from rear o2 to vvt solenoid since im not using any stock o2 and hust the wideband. Havent plugged to power solenoid yet til I get the correct tune. All in all wish i had taken more pics but im just glad it works lol. Thanks guys not this thread specifically but all the guys from this site inspired me and answered a lot of my ? Through reading problems of there own. Simply, Hussein, Sconeman, Aaron and few more all convinced me the volvo was the project for me...
  2. 3 points
    Thank you. I haven't had bad weather to really check it out yet. The kinds of driving where the AWD shone was on the Parkway I commute on - it's 2 lane greenway divided, and floods really badly on the edge of the fast lane, perfect conditions for telling if the AWD is doing it's job. In dry driving, it really makes a difference in higher speed ramp driving & long sweeping uphills where you can feel the rear pushing in a good way. I'm really happy with it. Annoying stuff is the software - I haven't got really agressive with it & you do have to remember to turn off the DSTC or you just get front wheel spin. Since I'm relying on Hilton for tuning, I really doubt I will ever go beyond the K16, but you never know.... The X1/9 will be fun, since it's gonna be around 220WHP in a chassis that weighs maybe 2000lbs :) The funky business with that is I have to raise & lower the car onto the drivetrain, no other way to install it.
  3. 2 points
  4. 2 points
    A cold one πŸ˜‚ Me too, but I don’t love how everyone immediately forgets how to drive once the first snow flake falls.
  5. 2 points
    We got 14” of snow so far, and it’s still falling
  6. 2 points
    Nice! No pics buttt: Sony PS4 Pro, Sony X900F 65" TV, Sony 3.1 Sound System HTZ9F CANT WAIT! Really wanted to do floor standing speakers and a sub and a big ol' receiver but this is a better set up for what we would use it for (combo of tv, gaming, movies, music)
  7. 2 points
    AWD has been functional since June, using the Gen 3 controller, so I didn't go further with a Arduino controller. May still investigate that once I'm done with the X1/9 work. I'd add pics in the C30 thread I had, but it's archived & no one responded to my unlocking requests.
  8. 1 point
    More details.. Yeah the guy in the utube is back probing the TPS connector and measuring voltage on the signal pin with key in RUN. Should see about 0.5v at idle/closed and roughly 4.5v at WFO. Give or take a few tenths of a volt. You can do that, but IMO it's easier to pop out the ECU and then probe the TPS pins at the ECU connector (key in OFF position). Here are the TPS pins at the ECU: A15: TPS 5v supply from ECU A16: TPS signal pin A18: signal reference (ground) Get an ohmmeter, two small paper clips and two alligator clip leads. Using the paper clips, carefully insert one end on the side of the ECU connector; do not damage or bend the ECU connectors. Measure between A16 and A18: should see about 1300 ohms at idle and about 3300 ohms at WFO. I'd say +/- about 100 ohms or so. Off by much more than that, and I'd suggest a new one. Can get one at pic-n-pull but bring an ohmmeter so you can check it there. If you go with new one, do NOT spend a hundred dollars on the blue box one; get that exact same part in Bosch OE. BTW: the other advantage of measuring the resistance from the ECU pins is that you're ohming out the wiring in the harness too. If you suspect bad wiring, hook up your ohmmeter at the ECU connector as described above and then wiggle the harness, especially near the TPS connector. If the readings change while moving the harness, you just found some bad wiring.
  9. 1 point
    I got new tires too. A little different tread pattern though...
  10. 1 point
    I had a broken wire on the harness to the TPS. It would mostly hold together, but would randomly have idle issues among other problems. It took me 6 months to track it down. The break was right at the plug, so I bought a new plug and spliced it into the harness. No codes on it either.
  11. 1 point
    I'm pretty sure the '98 clutch pedal is the same as the newer ones, all you need are those notches for the return spring as seen in the above picture. Provisions for the clutch pedal sensor are on the clutch master cylinder, not the pedal. There are two nubs for it to attach, one on the firewall flange and one on the rod attaching to the pedal, but not the pedal itself. There may be an additional piece on the '98 pedal for the cruise cancel switch, but I'm not totally sure on that. I have my cousin's '98 V70 M56 in the garage right now and I'll be removing the pedals either today or tomorrow for the manual swap on his '99, so I'll see what that looks like.
  12. 1 point
    Awesome... i got a great deal on it ($1100 for black friday week) and was very pleased with the performance of it in the store and then the reviews. i havent set it up yet though because we still dont know what the hell we are doing with the living room layout haha
  13. 1 point
    I just bought this a few months ago. Very happy with it.
  14. 1 point
    Glad to see you are on the path to rebuilding. Hoping I will be able to say the same soon.
  15. 1 point
    I still have my 1995 Volvo wiring manual TP 3907202, showing the instrument cluster in detail. google search for 1998 c,v70 TP3932202 yielded the newer wiring diagrams. comparing the two there looks like only a couple of changes to adapt the newer cluster. yes signal from crash sensor is on the same pin B3. B15 is spare on 850 for SRS they moved the input signal from connector a:18 (pwr relay 2/31) to b:5 (ignition switch X pin) all other SRS connections are same. and for speedo, they disconnected a:3 from the analog speed sensor (7/33) and moved it to connect with pin 6 of ABS connector. google search shows 850 and s,v70 abs modules have same part number 10094604023, 9140773. with these changes it appears the 98 cluster could be made work in older cars.
  16. 1 point
  17. 1 point
    nah it wasnt cj i was thinking... i know cj, hes great. i cant remember the kids name... oh well
  18. 1 point
    CJ Yother. As far as I know he has never done any tunes to sell, only tuning his own car with Turbo Tuner. I don't think its him.
  19. 1 point
    Hello everybody !! IM Gabriel R from South East of USA. Currently own a 1995 Volvo 960 Sedan RWD I inherit this one from parents since they decided to get the newest 2017-18 S90 ( go figure how the got convinced to get one since they NEVER wanted to sell this one) so i rescue this volvo from the trade-in they offered them, now is my project i ve been working for a few years and its finally running good Looking forward to get to know more about these legendary vehicles and keep this one good as new..
  20. 1 point
    Yes...just SRS warning light. The signal from crash sensor is on the same pin B3....but 70 series cluster use additional B5 and B15 pin for SRS light which are not used on 850 cluster. I'll take wiring diagrams,i allready printed ,to my car electician to see what he can say about it. If he can make SRS light to work on bulb check and if SRS system doesn't show a code for it after re-pinning....i'll install the cluster. Otherwise i'll sell it and buy odometer gears for original cluster.
  21. 1 point
    Ive been following your channel since june when i bought my 98 s70 t5 manual. I had put what I considered a fair amount of work into it until i saw some of these builds lol. Was tuned by Vast and was running wmi went really well for the stock 16t (comparatively). Was a granny owned 1 owner car that had never been abused and didn't want to be! Bottom end knock lead to RN swap in progress!! I was inspired by all of you...
  22. 1 point
  23. 1 point
    Your 2.0L T5 engine should have a shorter stroke than the 2.3 or 2.4L. I don't know how someone made that mistake of using NA components in the HPT block... not a good recipe for a long lasting engine. Although I have a B5244T2 in my 2000 R, I'm not too familiar with the part numbers of the rods and crank, or specific differences in these engines. I don't think they are the same as the B5244S being that it's a high pressure turbo engine. Looking at VIDA, the pistons are definitely different... part numbers will be different depending on the letter code. So, two of the same engine (B5244T2, for example) may have different pistons. From what I remember reading, one specific engine may use multiple PNs for pistons, it depends on the engine. All VIDA shows for the rods is PN 1270483, which only says -2001. Keep in mind, this diagram is for a 2000 V70R with a B5244T2, so I don't know the PN for the 44S or 04T3. As for the crankshaft, PN 8250382 for 44T2 -2001, and the 04T3 should use 8250381 (also shows -2001).
  24. 1 point
    Merge is complete and stats and search index are rebuilding now.
  25. 1 point
    708WHP now πŸ™‚ Another roll race sunday. 165mph goal.
  26. 1 point
    The choice to replace the heater core was a good one. Today I started pulling the pedal box, and heater core to get ready for the new stuff. As soon as I pulled up the driver's side carpet I could smell the coolant. Sure enough, the core and the feed lines are both leaking. The core has a crack, and the seals on the tubes are shot. Stuffed a shit tone of rags down under the underlayment and on top to absorb as much coolant as possible. Also dropped the sunroof to get some sound dampening up in there. If your going to do it, do it right. Pulled to old auto cables out and was going to put the manual cables back, but realized that it would be easier to wait until the heater core is finished. Loosened the brake booster and pedal box to get the clutch in, and setup for three pedals, but that too was set on hold due to all the coolant in the driver's side footwell. A little forward, and a little back. If all goes well, the engine and trans should be ready to go back in next weekend. In the mean time, the wheels are back from powder coating. And they look AMAZING! This color is going to go so perfectly with the Laser Blue and Banana Yellow of the calipers. This grey has both silver and blue flakes in it, so in the sun it look grey and reflects blue. The camera just cannot do it justice.
  27. 1 point
    Haha, more cool volvo electronics are in the works. Later though.. First the results of today's work. :) After asking around a bit, I decided to take off at least one piston ring to check the clearance. Mahle states that the rings have been pre gapped to the correct size so you should be able to install them. Measuring them, they came up fine for the 350-400 hp range I'm shooting for. Then came the time to line everything up to prepare for assembly: I weighed them again, and again 2 of the piston rod assemblies where ~1 gram lighter than the others. I put them in position 2 and 4. To install them, the big end bearing caps have to come off, and that turned out to be a bit of a challenge. After trying to pull them off for a while, to no avail, we had to come up with a different tactic. In the end I put some cloth over the handle of a hammer and inserted it through the big end. Then I screwed the big end bolts in leaving them slightly proud of the hole. After tapping the bolts lightly with a small hammer, the caps came free: You have to make sure you put the caps back on in the same orientation as they came off. Installing them rotated 180 degrees would be disastrous. Luckely the serial number is stamped on the same side on both the cap, and the conrod, so that can be used as a marker. Then we proceeded to install them into the block. I didn't take any photo's of the process, as we were concentrating on not making any mistakes. Especially the first piston took some trying to get it all right. In the end the process was as following: -With the block upright, put the crank at bdc. -Clean bearing races of the big end very thouroughly -Use oil to lubricate the piston, the bore, and the piston ring tool. Also wet the piston rings with oil. -Put piston into tool, and tighten the tool until the piston rings are compressed enough to fit in the bore. -Make sure the tool is square, and put it on top of the bore. -Make sure the piston is oriented correctly, with the arrow pointing to the timing belt side of the engine. -Use wooden handle of a hammer to gently tap the piston into the bore -Push the piston in far enough so the big end bearing can be installed (rotate crank to make a little more room if required). -Make sure the bearing races, and the backs of both bearings are spotless. -insert the bearing shells. Mine where marked at one side, I made sure that the marks of both the bearings where pointing at the timing belt side of the engine. -lubricate the top bearing shell, and push the conrod into position on the crank, with the crank again at bdc. -lubricate the bottom bearing shell, and insert it into the bearing cap. -place the bearing cap on the crank, completing the big end. Make sure it is oriented correctly with respect to the conrod. -Put some arp assembly grease on both the threads, and the bottom of the head of the arp 2000 bolts. -Screw the bolts in finger tight. -In my case (lacking a stretch meter) torque them down to 55 lb/ft, which is 75 nm. Rinse and repeat. We managed to get 3 pistons in today, the rest will follow later on: