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Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/08/2019 in Posts

  1. 2 points
    Worked on the heat shield / trunk floor framing today. Started with this heat shield from the S40 AWD cut & folded to fit the opening, set upside-down here to use the opening to form the edges. Used the mallet to flatten the dimpled flanges, then pressed them bewtween two flats in the vice after this Had to mull over what to do about the raised area - I decided to make a aluminum square tube frame to contain it, upon which the stainless steel floor pan will be attached. air gap between the shield and panel two sections will be cut & welded as one The excess from the shield should be sufficient to make a panel between the exhaust bay & engine bay Whilst I was on a heatshield kick I cut the Honda manifold shield to fit the header cut edge was folded in on itself to keep the two- layer integrity Have to weld tabs back on the manifold flange, and one by the collector to support it
  2. 2 points
    So.... We had some snow & ice, and I took it out to see what's what. With DSTC turned off, it's quite nice- but.... since these have no rear posi like the old P80's (cheap Ford bastards) the rear pushes right when it looses traction. I'm getting a Quaife QDF11J (AustinV70R on SwedeSpeed posted a howto). It is a fucked up install, since the ring gear is welded to the diff, but it needs to be done. More work on the exhaust. Got the tailpipe/resonator laid out & tacked after some back & forth. Since the Magnaflow's are loud, I'm adding a resonator I cut off the S40 AWD exhaust :D After that, I started on the exhaust hanger setup - left side. Volvo hangers of course. welded heavy wahers to the muffler pins to prevent the hanger walking sideways Right side Clearances all seem ok - has enough wiggle to not hit the chassis May need another hanger on the left front of the muffler or the rear side of the tailpipe, to keep the exhaust from rocking. The flex coupler allows a subtantial amount of tilt and twist. Not much clearance off the planned floor pan - may have to raise it RedTail (2.5"x3.5"x4") L exhaust tip - will be going on the SW chambered muffler/open tailpipe setup. I'm not expecting to leave the Magnaflow on. Have to figure out the header support - going to cut the ear off the old manifold, make an brace from that to the block or the rear MWB mount bracket to the header collector, whichever works. O2 sensor will go about here. Glad I didn't drill on the otherside where I was going to put it- that has insufficient clearance from the muffler now WBO2 sensor will go around here, probably at 12 o'clock, if it will clear the floor OK, don't want it inline with the other O2 After that I started on the replacement water passage - cut the flanges off more cleanly than the previous. Heater pipe welded - that went better than last time also. Rad hose outlet ('00 V70 :D) will be something like this - have to remove the old one first to confirm placement
  3. 1 point
    More details.. Yeah the guy in the utube is back probing the TPS connector and measuring voltage on the signal pin with key in RUN. Should see about 0.5v at idle/closed and roughly 4.5v at WFO. Give or take a few tenths of a volt. You can do that, but IMO it's easier to pop out the ECU and then probe the TPS pins at the ECU connector (key in OFF position). Here are the TPS pins at the ECU: A15: TPS 5v supply from ECU A16: TPS signal pin A18: signal reference (ground) Get an ohmmeter, two small paper clips and two alligator clip leads. Using the paper clips, carefully insert one end on the side of the ECU connector; do not damage or bend the ECU connectors. Measure between A16 and A18: should see about 1300 ohms at idle and about 3300 ohms at WFO. I'd say +/- about 100 ohms or so. Off by much more than that, and I'd suggest a new one. Can get one at pic-n-pull but bring an ohmmeter so you can check it there. If you go with new one, do NOT spend a hundred dollars on the blue box one; get that exact same part in Bosch OE. BTW: the other advantage of measuring the resistance from the ECU pins is that you're ohming out the wiring in the harness too. If you suspect bad wiring, hook up your ohmmeter at the ECU connector as described above and then wiggle the harness, especially near the TPS connector. If the readings change while moving the harness, you just found some bad wiring.