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Built M58 : M66 Quaife, Reinforcement plate for bearings, P1 M56H 4.25 (strongest volvo gearset out there & steel synchros) and a custom mount to adapt it to the P80 FWD subframe / steering rack.

Thanks for always taking the time to write up such details posts. I appreciate the insight & help greatly. I made some progress on the oil drain tonight. Ill post up a few pictures when I get things tacked up. I was able to use some 1" OD aluminum tubing to basically shoot the drain directly towards the firewall and then 180 around and switch to 12AN braided hose. It mains a downhill the entire time including when its going towards the fire wall and bending around the 180. The FWD 12AN drain to the oil pan was so much easier & worked so freaking well! Oh well though, there is a lot going on back there with the turbo and angle gear so its going to take some extra work. Thanks! I set him a message on Facebook.

Still going strong after 10+ years of ownership.

Did rear brakes on the 2018 S60. Was worried about the electronic parking break, but man once I got in there it was so much easier than so many people made it sound. Saved about $300-$500 O.o 2x T30 2x 15 and 14mm 1x T40 And thats that. lol

Got the HRE 535's on. Need to drive it and get the suspension to settle. Also need to go beat on it since I have a track day on the 12th.

I have a massive pile of parts in the shop and have started digging into this car again. Thank God for FCP and their lifetime warranty! I am replacing a number of engine, suspension, and other parts that I had previously replaced and had either gone bad or wore out after years of use. They don't care and they stand behind their warranty, if a part is bad, they replace it. Period. I got the coilovers installed several weeks ago and set the initial stance. The fronts are adjusted all the way down without removing any of the lock rings. I may go a little lower later, but I do want to actually drive this car. I anticipate some settling will happen, so we'll see. Once I was satisfied with the coilover install, I pulled it back in the shop for the rest of the projects. I have so far finished up the tie rods, control arms, etc. Upgraded to 302mm brakes with all new calipers, braided hoses, Zimmerman coated rotors, Akebono pads, etc. I got everything cleaned up nice and painted. Love it or hate it, I think it looks good, and the blue compliments the orange nicely. I also finished up freshening up the engine with new timing belt and components, replaced PCV hoses, all new cam seals, front crank seal, oil pump seal kit, replaced all coolant hoses, intercooler hoses, and vacuum hoses to silicone. I also re-polished the parts that I had done previously and polished the OTE pipe as well while I was waiting for the new parts to arrive. Overall just tried to get it back to a stage zero mechanically and pretty enough to show. Still on the to-do list is: -Dash removal including: mounting tab reinforcement, heater core, A/C evaporator (and all other serviceable components), coolant firewall junction and seals, clean up the previous stereo wiring, and a handful of other little projects. -Drop rear axle and replace the delta links, joints, etc, parking brakes, regular brakes, and brake lines as I have destroyed them trying to loosen. I have Zimmerman rotors, Akebono pads, new calipers, and stainless hoses for the rear as well. Once all of that is done, I will finish up some work on the stereo, and cosmetics, and finally figure out the proper spacer situation so that these wheels fit right. Bonus points, I should probably find an exhaust while I'm doing everything else. This one is starting to get crusty.

I wouldn't use corrugated tube - I did try that for a couple versions - the corrugations are not helpful for oil foam I just found a piece of thin wall aluminum tube that was a snug fit over the inlet - I never made a note of it, sorry Add the safety ground sleeve - and + - are reversed. Cut a small opening in the underside of the case near the bottom (not shown), since the DW has no secondary pickup for fuel residing inside the pump housing

Thank Hussein! Yes the oil drain is something I need to continue playing around with. I found this piece which might order up and try. Its a flexible turbo oil drain. It might allow me to get a better angle off the turbo. Then I can weld on an AN fitting or something. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bdd-1453106 On a side note... Hussein I kinda remember the mods you made to your AWD fuel pump sender to fit a DW300 but all of the links to the pictures are dead... from what I remember the pump outlet fits the sender fine, but you had to make a spacer on the pump inlet in order to hookup the strainer screen? Do you remember the ID of that spacer?

Nice work! I could have told you better to check the freeplay / movement in gears using either the assembled AG, an axle or even an old clutch disc- as you found, hold the input shaft you don't have enough leverage to overcome the gear ratios With the oil drain, better to avoid 90's - if you can keep a slight downhill all the way it's gonna be better - remember that you are dealing with oil foam when running high load/rpm, not just oil flow.

NLA from Volvo. In good condition without rust. asking $20 shipped OBO.

why are you yelling at us