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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/03/2019 in Posts

  1. 12 points
    I am speed! ___ Love these two pictures I got this past weekend
  2. 8 points
  3. 8 points
    The 1 day a year that it's totally clean!
  4. 8 points
    Gave the VR a much needed wash/polish/wax last night.
  5. 7 points
    "mY cArS nOt ReAdY fOr ThE tRaCk"
  6. 6 points
  7. 6 points
    5.5 years of progress between these two pictures.
  8. 6 points
    Worked on the heat shield / trunk floor framing today. Started with this heat shield from the S40 AWD cut & folded to fit the opening, set upside-down here to use the opening to form the edges. Used the mallet to flatten the dimpled flanges, then pressed them bewtween two flats in the vice after this Had to mull over what to do about the raised area - I decided to make a aluminum square tube frame to contain it, upon which the stainless steel floor pan will be attached. air gap between the shield and panel two sections will be cut & welded as one The excess from the shield should be sufficient to make a panel between the exhaust bay & engine bay Whilst I was on a heatshield kick I cut the Honda manifold shield to fit the header cut edge was folded in on itself to keep the two- layer integrity Have to weld tabs back on the manifold flange, and one by the collector to support it
  9. 6 points
  10. 6 points
    So, I've been lazy in updating this thread over the summer. Here's what's happened since my last post May. @AJp80 and I took a ride out to Ithaca for the annual Euro meet. It's always a great time to see everyone and catch up with @lookforjoe @apeacock @sconeman and many others at the show. Here's a couple of random shots from around town this summer I replaced my AC compressor, drier, and orifice tube. The orifice tube was gross - as far as I can tell it's original to the car so I'm glad I replaced it after all these years. After all that the AC blows ice cold again Finally installed the set of XC roof rails from my 99 R to get rid of the peeling roof strips that have been on the car since I bought it. The roof strips before were in rough shape: And I made a stop at IKEA on the way to Swedish Car Day at Larz Anderson Auto Museum in Brookline MA So, I actually got to meet @Big Will at Swedish Car Day! He was in Connecticut visiting from Arizona and decided to come up to SCD with @B Mac to hang out at the show. After talking online for a decade or so (woah, I think I'm getting old ) we were both excited to put faces to the name. Anyways, Will's doing well, and his wagon is still as awesome as ever. Here's the only photo I took at SCD. Two weekends ago, I signed up for a big (~415 cars before they ran out of room) annual car show here in the Capital Region. I had a great time and it was cool talking to non-Volvo people about my car. On my way home from the show, I finally took a few nice (non-phone) photos of my wagon for the first time since I bought it DSC_0294 by Andy Buresh, on Flickr DSC_0314 by Andy Buresh, on Flickr DSC_0319 by Andy Buresh, on Flickr DSC_0323 by Andy Buresh, on Flickr
  11. 6 points
    Fun time at the Poconos. 159mph official trap but didn't let out until 173 πŸ™‚
  12. 6 points
    Took my own photo because the guys at the local cars and coffee don't know what it is/could care less.
  13. 6 points
    Michael and I were fortunate to have our cars selected to be within Oblivion, effectively a Canadian Radwood and probably the best car show I've attended. I was placed within the front lot with an AMG Hammer, F40, XJ220, 560SL, pair of Saab 900 Turbos, Lada Niva, Ford EXP, etc...
  14. 6 points
    Fixed my sync loss by changing the value of my shunt resistor and also finally tuned ignition timing. Session got cut short due to t bolt clamp failure.
  15. 5 points
    All done painting and finally driving it.
  16. 5 points
  17. 5 points
    Yes you can replace the rods without pulling the motor, but it is a pain to check clearances and make sure everything is done correctly with the block in the car. The factory pistons can handle well over 400WHP so you don't need to replace them. Every whiteblock motor I've torn down has had cylinder walls worn well beyond spec, so I wouldn't recommend buying pistons for the stock bore size. I've run multiple engines over or near the 400WHP with completely stock internals. It is running on the edge of what is safe, but it can be done. I'd recommend sourcing a new engine block and building it out of the car, meanwhile you can get your current stock block up to 400WHP and when/if it bends a rod you can throw in the new built motor. For the engine you build out of the car you'll want to bore the cylinder walls to get them back into spec. I have yet see a motor that came from a running car that needed more than .5mm of an overbore. You'll need a torque plate to keep the bores from distorting when boring the block. I have one I can rent you that comes with a headgasket and head bolts. If you bore the block you'll need new pistons for the larger bore size and if you use new pistons you might as well order a custom set and get them spec'd to use the longer rod and crank combination. You can get 147mm rods with the tapered small end for cheap, and you can pull a 93.2mm crank out of a 2.5L RN block or RNC block. This will give you 2.4L of displacement and the preferable longer rod/stroke ratio. Fuel Pump The DW200 can support over 400WHP on gasoline. If you use the DW300 it can flow too much at idle and oversaturate the return line, causing the fuel pressure at idle to be higher than regulated by the FPR. Fuel Injectors For over 400WHP on gasoline I'd recommend the DW800 injectors, if you want to run E85 then their DW900 (1000cc @ 3bar) are a good choice. I have a dealer account with DW and can get a pump and/or injectors for you if you'd like. 500cc would be too small. Fuel rail The factory '98 fuel rail is good for a lot of power, well over 500WHP. NA Manifold and Throttle Body The NA throttle body doesn't net you more power, it just changes the throttle response. The NA intake manifold is used just so that you don't have to open the throttle body opening on a turbo manifold. MAF You'll need to upgrade your MAF housing. The MAF uses a heated resistor to measure the amount of air flowing past it. The more the resistor is cooled the more voltage will flow through the resistor. The most voltage that can flow through the resistor is 5V, so once the velocity of the incoming air reaches a point at which the resistor is cooled enough to flow 5V, the ECU can no longer register a greater amount of air entering the engine. To overcome this limit you can increase the size of the MAF housing, thus decreasing the velocity of the airflow and increasing the limit at which the resistor flows 5v. On a MAF housing this limit is 826kg/hr, or about 250WHP. For 400WHP you'd need to run a 3.5" outer diameter housing, like this one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-5-OD-MAF-Mass-Air-Flow-Housing-Air-Straightener-for-VW-MK3-GTI-BMW-M62-Volvo/253224903302?hash=item3af5616286:g:63sAAOSwyUFcB9z3:sc:USPSPriority!80219!US!-1 Spark plugs The NGK BKR7E is a one step colder than stock plug and is an inexpensive copper plug easily available at almost every auto parts store. They make a platinum and iridium equivalent as well. Turbo The GT3071R is a large turbo for 400WHP. It can do closer to 550WHP. If you want to stay with Garrett the GTX2867R would be a much better fit for 400WHP. With that said I've been putting together a TD06 20G 'kit' that could do a bit over 400WHP. It comes with a Kinugawa turbo, a 'R' manifold milled flat for the standard T3 flange and studs enlarged to M10, stud kit, oil and water lines and a downpipe adapter. This turbo would have an integrated CBV so you wouldn't have to worry about adding you own. It also would be internally gated so you wouldn't have to worry about adding and external wastegate. The kit is $1800. Clutch and pressure plate I would recommend a Sachs 707 pressure plate with a 850R clutch disc. It's a proven setup to over 650WHP and drives great on the street. It usually costs less than a SPEC setup that is rated to the same equivalent power, and SPEC has a bit of a poor reputation in the Volvo world. You mentioned a BOV - you never want to run a vent to atmosphere on a MAF equipped car. Once air passes through the MAF sensor the ECU assumes that all that air will go into the engine and calculates the amount of fuel needed based on it. If you vent the air out of the intake tract, like this BOV, then the car will run rich. When you are under boost at part throttle the BOV will open a little bit. When this happens the car will start to run rich, then the fuel trims will start to intervene and will pull fuel to make the car run leaner. As soon as you back off the throttle the BOV will close, but the fuel trims will still be negative, so now the car will be lean. If you want to run the car on gasoline I'd highly recommend running water methanol injection. The stage 1 snow performance kit is all you need. It greatly helps reduce the likliehood of knock and can allow you to run a lot more boost and ignition timing than would otherwise be possible.
  18. 5 points
    My Red car got hit for like the 5th time since I've had it (NONE OF THEM MY FAULT) and i just got tired of sinking money into a body that wasn't straight, among other issues I just didn't have the will to fix. It had so many things wrong with it despite everything I did and other than it being stupid fast it was somewhat annoying to drive. I haven't done a photo shoot yet, but everything that was wrong with my red car is right with this car. It's so much nicer to drive. This is my plan! Except with the koni yellows I have. At this point I think lowering springs are too much of a trade off, especially since I don't even track my car. Are you happy with that setup considering you do autox and stuff?
  19. 5 points
    2014 XC90 - 71k miles - 1 owner and dealer maintained and in great shape - every single option possible (sovereign hide leather in CHESTNUT, 19's, wood wheel, blah blah) Selling our 2013 GLI and this is taking over for my wife. I wanted a 17+ XC90 R-Design T5 but needed something I wouldnt have a monthly payment with for now
  20. 5 points
    bought a john deere z540R this am. 60" zero turn... 2 acres in 40mins lol maybe less ITS AN 'R' guys! tractorspeed.com
  21. 5 points
    708WHP now πŸ™‚ Another roll race sunday. 165mph goal.
  22. 5 points
    At a local car show earlier today. It was quite a show. There were 415 cars entered, and the host venue ran out of show parking and had to turn people away. For an American-car centric show, I got a surprising number of people asking me about my car.
  23. 5 points
    Put about 6,000km on the car since I last posted, and it has continued being good to me! A couple weeks ago I replaced both rear wheel bearings and parking brake pads and hardware, along with the final original engine mount - the passenger side one, and trunk struts. It's nice that I've only had to spend about $300 on parts for the last 12,000km of driving... After the mechanical work I spent a day and a half detailing the interior and exterior. I haven't been as lucky with the cosmetic stuff as the mechanical - the clear coat on the rear wing has begun to fail pretty badly, the headliner droop actually came apart at the rear window so it's taped up for the time being, and back in May someone appears to have dropped a bike onto my driver's side rear door and left a nice big dent! That said, those are terribly difficult or expensive fixes, and the car still cleans up like this πŸ™‚
  24. 5 points
  25. 5 points
    Still going strong, last post was from november 2016, so.....hi everbodyπŸ‘‹
  26. 5 points
  27. 5 points
    Grocery getter getting groceries
  28. 4 points
    Since everything is being ported into PHP7 I decided to make my life easier and merge down a few sites. S40 Concepts, S60R and V70R.com are being merged into VS. If you had a paid membership on any of those forums it will carry over. Members originally on VS may see a few errors if you had accounts on the other forums. If you did post it up here and I will address as I can. Permissions and forums are rebuilding now so there will be errors. We are talking over 5 million cells so this will take a while.
  29. 4 points
    Thanks for the insight Hussein. I am currently using a 12AN drain from the turbo to the oil pan. Its works perfectly... but however Definetly won't work with the AG there like you said. I have a RNC prepped block so I am going to drill out and tap the RNC return since I need to replace my RN oil pan that has the drain bung welded on (hits the AG). Im going to install a 1/2NPT to 12AN and try to 45 or 90 off my turbo. For the DP it looks like a 90, 45, 90. The only have a left side exit exhaust and plan on keeping it that way, so won;t have any problems with heat around the surge tank (have it mounted in the same location you had yours). Pushing along... Made some homemade poly bushings for the diff cover since they are NLA: Got the rear subframe brackets I designed welded in & the VC mount.
  30. 4 points
    3M vinyl lettering finally came in yesterday , and it was a sunny warm day (for a change), so I got the lettering installed. Went easier than I was expecting - has a nice firm transfer sheet that keeps the lettering positioned 3M 'Dark Red' scotchcal film. Matches the Volvo red reasonably well I'm happy
  31. 4 points
    Waiting for color samples for the "icsunonove" lettering. Ordered another sticker I feel is appropriate now:
  32. 4 points
    Thanks! Just finished up the hood today. So that completes the wrap job finally.
  33. 4 points
    Dropped in a wooden steering wheel from a C70 (I think) over the weekend. Was straightforward thanks to Robert DIY's video. Now I just need a wooden shift knob...anyone? Or, any info on converting a S40 shift knob to work in a P80?
  34. 4 points
    Been doing a little bit of work here and there on the E46 330i. I was getting it ready for the local BMW CCA AutoX and the occasional HPDE but who knows how this season will go now. H&R race springs Koni Actives (came on the car, not fan. Not enough travel for the H&R's. Looking at ST XTA coilovers.) E46 M3 front sway ECS Tuning rear sway bar Turner Camber front plates Godspeed rear camber arms Ultra Racing front strut brace Garagistic rear strut brace Garagistic stainless brakes lines ATE Amber fluid EBC Yellow Stuff brake pads (damaged box dirt cheap πŸ™‚) Corbeau FX1 Pro seat DS1's with Federal RS-RR's Also did a tune up. Coils, Plugs, hot air intake (factory box was cracked / broken), fuel filter, valve cover gasket, diff fluid and transmission fluid. Also might throw on the mechanical fan delete I have sitting in the garage. Still need to install the Bimmerbrake headers. And at some point do the manual swap (picked that up for $300 😁). It came with some rice-tastic headlights and taillights swapped them back to stock.
  35. 4 points
    Bought a pretty beat up black 850 R. The interior, was grungy, has a broken door panel, couple of broken vents and a few other issues that need attention. The exterior had some of the worst paint I've ever seen on a Volvo. I used my quarantine time to wrap it in a color shift gloss metallic blue/green vinyl from Vvivid. First time ever attempting to wrap a car, so I'm pretty damn happy with the results.
  36. 4 points
  37. 4 points
    I haven't updated this much since I've just been driving and enjoying the car. (this section of road is prettymuch closed to traffic due to a bridge repair but I have to use it to get to my house so it's been nice and abandoned lately ) I've been daily driving it all summer and it has been a champ. Just rolled over 262k miles. The 18" wheels are definitely the best looking size for these cars, but due to some road construction on my daily commute, I am going to throw the 17" comets back on for the rest of the season before winter. I pulled it in the shop to catch up on some pesky little things that have been stacking up. I'll post about them as I go, but here's the list: -Install 3" IPD downpipe to replace the old EST piece. -replace o2 sensors -rebuild oil cooler lines and ATF cooler lines -Swap out complete ABS unit (all sensors good, and computer has been rebuilt/replaces multiple times, but still have ABS/TCS light -Re-lube brake calipers and adjust e-brake -Re-work better mounts for IPD skid-plate. Rubber expansion plugs no longer holding well. -Check over suspension and replace any parts if necessary (I think rear outer toe rods from Yother are wearing out). -Re-attach tailgate interior panels -Right front window motor getting weak -etc? The first thing I am working on is the exhaust. I got this done over the weekend. The new downpipe is evidently an early (possibly the first) IPD 3" downpipe for AWD P80s and was built by CJ Yother. I bought it from "Saffron-R" over on Swedespeed over a year ago because my old one was rattling. I only got the front section, so I used a tapered reducer to adapt it to the 2.5" "rest of the exhaust". I haven't started the car yet but I anticipate a deeper sound and slightly better flow. Should be fun. I will be making an ad for the old EST downpipe soon. And installed on the car. I am still waiting for the new 02 sensors to show up. The front one won't come out of the old downpipe, and the rear sensor at some point got tangled up in the prop shaft and the wires got shredded. I guess that would explain why the CEL wouldn't go away. I've got this nice 90 deg o2 spacer on the new pipe in hopes to avoid the CEL due to lack of cat.
  38. 4 points
  39. 4 points
  40. 4 points
    This is it, dirty after driving 500km. Nebulas are in the garage at home. Ottawa roads are like driving on a pubescent kids face.
  41. 4 points
  42. 4 points
    The car makes power and also goes fast!
  43. 4 points
    2 years project done
  44. 4 points
  45. 4 points
    Factory fresh 18" anthracite Pegs and P-Zero's:
  46. 4 points
    Still not warm enough to sit outside.
  47. 3 points
    Yes. PVL Auto Detailing and Daycare.
  48. 3 points
    I got the relays wired, and the two connectors to allow it to be unplugged & removed as a unit 6 pin Sumitomo TS 090 for the signal wires & 6 pin JPT for the power/ground feeds Have to figure out where some of the wires need to go that aren't part of the ECU "E" & EMS C201 connectors. Tomorrow I'll get the other relay box that lives in the spare well that feeds the starter & the Bay fan circuits wired. Need to do the same & have it removable with about 2' of harness coming off it. Much easier to do this part at my dining table than squatting in the freezing garage Worked on the spare well area relay box. Right now, it's for the starter relay & bay fan circuit. I wired 2 of the spare fuses to constant (30) and the other two to switched (15) for future use. Constant (30) feed for the starter relay & two of the spares. 2pole connector is for the starter feed. Took me forever to decide what type of connector to use, kept vacilating between design types. These are Sumitomo 6.3mm series, somewhat beefier construction than standard old school Yakazi terminals. Going to use Yazaki & Sumitomo 060 terminals & housings for the EMS connections to wiring to ECU "E" & C201 connections. left the spare relays switched power & output/ ground lines out, since I don't know just yet what they will be controlling Diodes inside the insulated strips for ground & switched power, to prevent backfeeding in the bay fan / timer circuitry. Use part of a zip tie to keep the diode connections rigid. About 30 wires left to connect to their appropriate circuits. I've done all I can of the wiring out of the car, time to go back out in the cold garage EDIT: forgot to note that in figuring out the relay wiring, Honda uses a later convention for the (mostly) Panasonic(?) style relays they use - terminals are numbered 1-5, instead of the older 30, 87, 87a, 86, 85 that I am more used to with Volvo schematics. I have been using the following conversion: 1= 30 2=87 3=85 4=86 (4=87a 5=85 on their 5pole diagrams, which is annoying) based on my read of the Honda schematics. The relays they depict don't seem to utilize the diode I am used to seeing between 3-4 to prevent backfeeds. Most all the (Volvo supplied) relays I use are the standard cube with the diode in place. As such, it is essential to make sure the ground side of the circuit is always connected to 85, since the diode is set to prevent current passing from 85 through the coil winding to 86. I have noticed some of the Honda-swap schematics wire their relays with 85 as the switched current, and 86 as the ground leg so I have to be careful when following these to switch mine to 85. plastic-welding the duct support - outside - the vapors really smells bad I have about 3" depth at the bottom corner in the well primed and painted the bracket EPDM hose I bought from McMasterCarr years ago Hose will go through the inner fender gap to the gas tank side opening & will attach up top gap (parts car) that the hose has to push through Fan PWM controller finished duct plate - lips on the left & bottom to clip it in place. top of plate tucks under vacuum cannister support bracket
  49. 3 points
    It's really cool. She has been waiting to get an XC90 in June for a few years, but was unsure with three kids and looking at other brands that offered the second row captain seats. Volvo announced they were doing it and she was so excited. If I moved on the from the wagon, I would be looking for the same XC90 you are. Anyways. Back on topic. I still have the e30. It's stripped down for the winter - patching rust holes, reinstalling and refreshing the whole AC system, rebuilding the rear subframe, all new brake lines, calipers, rotors, and pads, sound deadening the interior, wheel bearings, etc. When Katerhine gets her XC90 in June, I'll be adding another fun car to the garage (not quite sure what yet).
  50. 3 points
    Just trying to avoid archiving, there are dozens of us here, DOZENS!