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  1. Hello VS, it has been a while.
    10 points
  2. Drove the car to Colombus, Ohio & back this summer. Fiat gathering out there. Car ran very well, but.... the header I made leaks at the flange, and it is a significant restriction in terms of performance. I found a PLM header for the K24 - so I'm in the process of making that fit bought 2" SS mandrel bends to fix it had to remove the cross support to do this - I'll make a new section when it's all done runners rerouted for the Fiat chassis Slip joint sections cut from original header & reinstalled reworked 2-1 collectors to fit mostly welded Cat is going to go under Muffler on top notched & rewelded the crossmember where I needed clearance for the collector
    8 points
  3. 7 points
  4. Howdy, The Swede, from Sweden, is back after many years away from the Volvo scene, when I join you guys in 2005 I was driving and modding a 98 V70R AWD (pics here: https://awdturbo.net/1998-v70r-awd/ ). Sold it in 2011 and went on to other brands. Anyway, I'm back in the Volvo now making something that never was intended from Volvo. Not even a concept car was produced of the 460 with awd or a turbo engine, never been sold in the states so google it and you seen what it is and what it look like. This car will be inspected and legal to drive on the roads after it finished, I do have to get it inspected with the factory LPT @ 193 hp but after that it's another story hehehe. So I bought a rust bucket 1997 Volvo 850 STW with the LPT 193 hp 5-cyl turbo, 5-spd and AWD, the timing belt was broken so I expect some bent valves. Paid $80 for it, first I was going to make it a BTCC copy car but changed my mind when I found all the rust in floor and rocker panels. So I was thinking, what vehicle can I put this drive train in?? Then it hit me, the Volvo 460 has never ever been modified by anyone. The 440/460 has never been a popular model here in Sweden or the rest of the world as what I know. There are literally nothing to buy to these cars in the aftermarket scene, no led light no spoilers nothing. So because I'm not like everybody else I wanted to greate a car that ppl would laugh at and pointing fingers saying: Look at that moron that modified an Volvo 460, (fwd and 110hp), and then I break loose all 4 tires at the stop light. The ultimate sleeper is what I want. So I found a 1994 Volvo 460 next door with only 86K miles on it for 35 bucks, it ran perfectly but rocker panel were rusted bad. Stripped the 850 and kept the front clip and rear subframes and the whole drive line, now I'm in the process of matching it on the 460 body. And it's not an easy job I'll tell you. Anyway, if some of you are interested in the process I'm putting all of it on YT. Sorry to say the videos are in Swedish but if I get enough subscribers from the states I'll start making the videos in English. Link in my signature. Also check out Swedes Garage on Instagram (English), pictures come before videos. Thanks anyway, cheers from Sweden 😉
    6 points
  5. I'm getting close to wrapping up some long awaited mods. At a high level, the interior was gutted to recover the headliner, fix the broken dash mounts, and a thorough cleaning. Parts added: DVS 320mm front brakes Stainless brake lines - new steel lines on the rear as well KW V3s control arms end links strut mounts rear spring seats delta links trailing arm bushings replaced sunroof glass, removed sunroof assy to clean and lubricate ...and probably something else in there. I'm really excited about these seat bottoms that I recently found in a junk yard. I speculate that this car has ~300k miles on it... and the last seat bottom (and seat back) really showed it. I'll drive the car for a few more weeks as I wait on some more parts for the new engine/turbo/etc... Parts that are already here: B5234T9 - I've stripped it to the rotating assembly for cleaning and inspection; it gets all new parts going back together dual VVT cylinder head that I've ported myself - 😐 Japanifold N/A intake manifold w/ throttle body/960 plate K24 do88 intercooler/rip kit do88 radiator vast ecu new R bumper and R spoiler that needs to be painted The shop is a mess - I've got a dumpster outside for purging a lot of the stuff that's accumulated over the last few years.
    6 points
  6. Excellent man! It's good to see these X5's are getting the love they finally deserve. Especially the M54 engines, they really are great motors. I do miss the classic Volvo scene, but damn do I love this S90. I just put my BBS wheels on a few days ago, I swear you can feel the weight being lifted off of the car compared to the Cratus wheels, which are like 8 lbs heavier per wheel. Pic below:
    6 points
  7. 6 points
  8. For a long time I've wanted to swap in a FWD subframe to use 2-bolt control arms. The drivers side 4-bolt arm is really challenging to access because of the M66 case. Several years ago I parted out a 99 V70 NA, and kept the subframe for this project. I was finally able to get started on the project this winter. Using a FWD subframe on an AWD car requires welding the AWD transmission mount bracket onto the subframe. I made a template to locate the bracket on the FWD subframe, then cut the bracket off from an AWD subframe taken from a XC my friend parted out: Once I had the bracket in place, I had to notch the bracket to fit around the control arm bracket, then drilled the holes in the subframe to allow for full engagement of the transmission mount bolts: Then once everything was properly prepped and ready for welding, the bracket and subframe around the bracket were ground clean to remove the factory protective coating and 20 years of road grime. Then I had a friend weld the bracket in place. I think he did a fantastic job given the questionable cleanliness of the material he was working with: I cut off some of the extraneous brackets and cleaned everything up to make it easier to work in/around. Then I had a friend powdercoat the subframe to keep everything protected and looking good for years to come. They blasted the subframe clean, then applied a zinc primer, the color powder, and gloss clear powder. Everything came out looking fantastic. I picked a grey powder with some metallic flake to it: After being powdercoated, it was time to install a set of BNE Dynamics (Kaplhenke Racing) delrin subframe bushings. I made a tool to install the bushings - one 3/4" bolt, a 3/4" nut, a three 3/4" fender washers, a 4" metal octagonal junction box, and two j-box covers. Punch the knockouts out of the j-box and cover plates, then place the j-box above the bushing with one fender washer, drop the threaded bolt through the bushing, then two fender washers and j-box covers, and the nut. Tighten the nut to drive the bushing into the subframe. I used my M12 stubby impact and it made life nice and easy. The cardboard is used to protect the powdercoat. And the results - the bushings were seated perfectly, and no marks were left in the powder coat: And with all four bushings installed, the custom subframe is ready for install: Then I prepped a set of 93 850 aluminum control arms for install. I picked up 4 or 6 sets a few years back, sold most of them, and kept a pair for myself. I got a set of new ball joints, then torqued the bolts to spec (13 ft. lbs, then 120 degrees) and safety mark the orientation to ensure nothing comes loose: The bushings were in decent shape, so I left them for now. They'll get replaced with a set of Powerflex polyurethane bushings in the future. I’ll talk about installing the subframe and some other work in my next post
    6 points
  9. Installed a set of Kaplhenke Racing delrin bushings in my subframe
    6 points
  10. Although this thing annoys me sometimes, it does clean up pretty nicely. I finally got around to editing some photos from this fall and wanted to share them since I think they do a great job of showing the how incredible this paint color is during golden hour.
    6 points
  11. Picked this up today. I’ll post more pictures when I get a chance. But have a couple questions off the bat since it’s been so long. The front seat bottom tilt doesn’t work with the switch, but going through the memory buttons, the seat bottoms will tilt. It’s like this on both. The seat belt buckles don’t look like 850 ones. Almost looks like someone swapped in x70 ones. I remember putting in x70 seats into my 850 and they worked completely fine. Do the switches go bad frequently? It seems weird it’s the exact same on both front seats.
    5 points
  12. It's been a while since I've posted for y'all, but I picked up a 2005 BMW X5 3.0 with 192k, body damage, and a bunch of small electrical issues and engine/trans things to fix. It's all been cleared up and I wanted to make this X5 a luxury/ish offroader. I think it's mostly there. All engine related leaks have been sorted, doesn't leak a drop of fluids. Trans filter and gasket are done, all electrical gremlins have been repaired. Rear suspension has been completely refurbished (the rear ball joints were blown out to near catastrophic failure). I lifted it using a 40mm body lift, it has 20mm H&R spacers all around, and oversized 265/70R17 All terrains on it. Added wide angle mirrors, full LED tails and brake lights, headlights have been completely restored with new lenses and bulbs. GM3 module was replaced (rear windows were not functioning) as well as the ALC module (which was preventing the driver's light from coming on). Came with a knockoff key from some junk key shop, so I bought the AK90 programmer for new keys, ordered 2 cut keys on ebay for 90 bucks, and now they are fully functional OEM looking keys without an issue. Added a full touchscreen android unit that is able to run android auto. I really really love this thing, and i've put on about 1500 miles with all new fluids and the overhaul has been done, it's really been a great SUV for lugging stuff around. The only other thing I would like to do is to get a metal offroad bumper for it, since the mounting brackets on this plastic bumper are all separated. but I am very very happy with this X5 so far. Looking forward to winter with this X-Drive.
    5 points
  13. remember when we would flood TB and create all kinds of shit lol and Vice Versa.
    5 points
  14. I might be able to help you out, currently just doing PAP-smears out the back of the wagon in a Walmart parking lot but I’m looking to expand into mobile alignment as well.
    5 points
  15. He had a thread on my X1/9 forum for that build - very nicely done all over. $43K is a nice price for an X1/9 K/swap. They'll have to bury me in mine, I'm never selling it....
    5 points
  16. Lots more changes happened this past month. I installed a clutch slipper which will allow me to dial in the launches and basically just hit the 2 step and then side step the clutch pedal. 99+ P80 clutch master cylinder which has a position sensor that I will use to control flat foot shift. I added a flex fuel sensor and at the same time thought it would be a good idea to redo the fuel lines in black and switch from rubber to PTFE. I also converted everything over to black silicone and all vac lines to -3AN and -4AN. Lastly I built a new intake to practice my aluminum welding and make the bay a bit more presentable. It also fixed a bunch of rubbing issues with the intake. Lastly I threw it on the dyno to clean up the tune a bit. It made some serious power @ 30 psi. 818awhp/595awtq.
    5 points
  17. Got something from a friend to make the suspension job on the 850 easier.
    5 points
  18. Watch out you'll double the mileage in two months at this pace. Custom stealth door pod for the WB. Paint is custom matched to the factory mirror cap.
    5 points
  19. So happy to have the pair of these both back on the road at the same time!
    5 points
  20. It's been a little while, but not much has changed on this car. It still has the same quirks that I went through in a recent post, but I also drive it almost every day and I still love everything about it. Just figured it deserved a little love as it's been a while.
    5 points
  21. A little while back I got a Kenwood DNR876S head unit. Pretty sweet little touchscreen setup with integral Garmin GPS and CarPlay / Android Auto, plus the usual mix of radio, usb, aux input, etc. No CD/DVD player though. Pictured is wireless CarPlay with navigation and streaming audio (no USB connection needed). Plus it pairs up automatically when I get in the car. Definitely nice to get some more capable and modern ICE for daily driver duties then the single-DIN that came in the car.
    5 points
  22. Bought this To make one of these. Hope to get started late fall/winter
    5 points
  23. Some minor updates/incremental progress from the fall. Several years ago, I scored an OG metal mesh IPD grille from Adam @adamdrives and ran it on my 99 R for a short while before getting rid of that car. So after a few years in storage, I had a friend powder coat the grille for me. For those who remember, the original IPD grilles were either all silver or all black. I went with black mesh and a silver band as an OEM style play off the stock XC grille or the modified stock waterfall grille I had on the car. Since the IPD grille has a much thinner perimeter than the stock grille, parts of the hood that were previously hidden were now going to be visible inside the grille. This was undesirable so I masked off the area around where the grille meets the hood and plasti-dipped it black. I also sprayed the hood release rod and handle in the same black so they'll disappear into the background. And installed the grille (ignore the bug splatter all over the front of my car) Ever since seeing one on the IPD Stage 3 V70 and then on some of the various forum cars (looking at you, Gary @Yellow95) over the years, I've wanted to run a custom silver/black version this grille on my wagon. Thanks to Adam and my friend Donovan for the powder coating, that vision has come to life and I couldn't be happier.
    5 points
  24. Snow globe-esque last night
    5 points
  25. The current fleet. I really want to swap out the XC60 for a V60.
    5 points
  26. Put together a quick video on he DOs and DONTS of PCV system while I am refurbishing mine.
    5 points
  27. 5 points
  28. Covered the dash top with 1/16" neoprene foam , then adhesive backed vinyl.
    5 points
  29. for people who still use this forum.. i'm back bois
    4 points
  30. Waiting on a couple things before I can reassemble the HVAC box. In the meantime I picked up a 1000lb hydraulic table from HF and used that to drop the complete engine from the car rather than using a hoist. It may have taken a little bit longer, but the e30 is similar to the 850 in that the engine needs to come out at a pretty extreme angle. I was able to avoid the hassle and frustrations of using a hoist at least. I have some areas of rust that need addressed in the engine bay and am taking this opportunity to strip the entire engine bay and respray it. Stripping off all the seam sealer. Patch one rust spot and then other areas are just surface so those will be ground down and spray with rust encapsulator.
    4 points
  31. Nice E53! I just picked one up a few weeks ago too for a new daily driver. I love it! Super well maintained one owner X5 with 205k miles. He kept EVERY maintenance record since 2003. And he over-maintained it like I do with all my cars... it fell into the perfect hands if I say so myself! I've put about 800 miles on it so far and it's awesome. Rock solid car, super smooth on the highway. I wanted it to use for towing, since I sold my Mountaineer back in June and I don't like borrowing trucks every time I need to pick up non-running car. The X5 is perfect since I'm not planning on towing over capacity, and the handling as a daily driver is unbeatable as far as SUVs go. Well, I guess an E70 X5 beats it, but they're nowhere near as cheap as I paid for this one. It's a fitting replacement daily for my E39 touring, which is now in the garage as I contemplate replacing the oil pan gasket. As for the V70R, I picked up these Otreras from the junkyard the other day. Just need to order some fresh rubber for them before I swap them on. I also want to order those iPd poly spring adjusters to raise up the rear end a touch. As you can see, it's sagging quite a bit with the FCP springs on the delta link rear end.
    4 points
  32. Drove it 20+ hours round trip. Ran 5 30 minute sessions. Even slept in it. Not the most comfortable car to drive long distances. The car doesn't have AC, PS, ABS, radio, carpet, sound deadening etc. 😂 IEM's + Spotify FTW. The RT615K+'s are a year old. They have a few DE's, and a few autocrosses on them. Plus a few thousand street miles. Very satisfied with them. They last but aren't the stickiest "200TW." I rode shotgun in one Elliott's track cars. Slicks > 200TW. Slicks on another set of wheels might be my next move for the 944. #doitfordale My friend Elliott's Euro RHD S2 won peoples choice award.
    4 points
  33. Alright. We're 2 weeks out from the Overcrest Rally and a couple weeks ago I had an issue with the e30 dying. It started with the water temp gauge on the cluster becoming very erratic - needle jumping back and forth. Then the temp gauge I had installed started doing the same thing. *Note both these gauges are wired separately from each other with their own sensors* The next day it died on me while I was at lunch. It would start up, idle rough, I could get going but any load would cause it to stumble and die. I had a co-worker pick me up, get a new battery, and it ran great. Everything was steady, no issues. Drove it home. Drove it to work the next day. At lunch it died again. It appeared that the fuel pump wasn't getting any power. Fiddled with it for a bit and then it fired up. Drove it back to work and home like nothing was wrong. After the 850 was done, I tried driving it into the garage and it wouldn't start. Confirmed the fuel pump wasn't getting any power. I backtracked fuses and relays to where the main power comes into the engine bay from the battery in the trunk. I was getting 12v at the main lead and only 2 volts at the secondary power supply - which is the power source for the main relay and subsequently the fuel pump relay/fuel pump. The power lines had a good amount of corrosion on them. The battery terminal in the trunk was done haphazardly by the PO with a cheap clamp style terminal and the power lead for the main relay was connected to the clamp via a cheap ring terminal through one of the terminal bolts. All new power wire, new fusible link for the secondary power wire, new solder loaded terminal clamps, and power distribution blocks. I will also make all new ground wires with the leftover wire. Also replaced the AC condenser with what I should have put in from the beginning to accommodate the r134 update. The black one is more for r12 apparently. And yes, it's super wonky. LOVE working on the car in here.
    4 points
  34. And an hour later the test drive confirms I fixed the issue.
    4 points
  35. Okay, now it's actually time for the subframe installation and repairs to the damage caused by the control arm coming out. I drove to my buddy's house to do the work in his driveway. On Saturday morning, I got my car up on jack stands, then got the HF engine bar in place, and started disassembly to remove the subframe, the control arms, the steering rack + tie rods, and the motor/transmission mounts. The front swaybar (stock 20mm with Energy Suspension poly bushings) would come out and get transferred over to the new subframe. By Saturday evening, I had the old parts removed and the new subframe assembly nearly ready to install. To get the AWD-style front engine mount to bolt onto the FWD subframe, there is a small nub on the bottom that contacts the control arm bushing bracket. It quickly gets trimmed off, and problem solved: Starting again on Sunday morning, the new subframe had everything installed, and ready to get installed. Here's the list of new parts for anyone who is interested: Custom powder-coated FWD subframe w/ AWD transmission mount bracket and BNE Dynamics Delrin subframe bushings, OEM engine mounts, OEM 99 AWD transmission mount, TRW remanufactured FWD steering rack with inner tie rods, TRW outer tie rods, Lemforder end links, 93 850 aluminum control arms, new Meyle HD ball joints, new OEM ball joint bolts, and new hardware for everything else. Here is where things started to go sideways... With the subframe lined up and close to installed, I realized the rear engine mount on the FWD steering rack was hitting the downpipe and preventing the rack from moving upwards into position: Knowing that I would have to remove the whole assembly, that was enough to stop my progress for the weekend. Here's how it sat for a week until I could get back to work on it Now, in the process of removing the power steering feed line from the rack a 2nd time in the weekend, the o-ring that seals the line into the the rack was damaged. So I looked up the part number, called the local dealership and ordered a couple of o-rings. I got the o-rings picked up and the next weekend, I started work on my car again. Once the rack/subframe assembly was out of the car, I cut the rear engine mount bracket off the steering rack: Shot it with some black paint to make the cut blend in and soothe my OCD after hacking up a brand new steering rack: When I went to install the new o-ring on the power steering feed line, it was too small and didn't fit. Turns out, I gave them the wrong part number . I had to re-order the right o-rings, so that stopped my progress on re-assembling the subframe for the weekend. When the control arm came out and the wheel got ripped backwards, the fender was yanked outwards as well. I posted some photos of the cosmetic damage in my earlier post. What also happened was that the lower fender bolt bracket got yanked out of the chassis and the captive nut was broken. You can see that at the bottom of the fender here: I was able to find a "license plate nut" at Advance Auto Parts that fit properly and allowed me to bolt the fender back in place. The fender still needs to be replaced, but this kept the lower portion from flapping around as badly as it did before. I also took the opportunity to drain my ~2 year old OEM transmission fluid and replace with Redline Lightweight Shockproof. This calibrated syringe from FCP makes providing the proper 2.1 L of fluid incredibly easy and was a great purchase. I had also noticed that the top mount of the passenger side coilover had gotten a small bend in the accident. Given that my CX Racing coils had been installed for a while and were starting to get rusty, so I decided to replace both front coilovers to be safe. As an unplanned purchase, I couldn't justify JRZs, or even BCs, so I decided to give the Maxspeedingrods non-dampening adjustable coilovers a chance. At $270 shipped, it was worth the gamble. The shipped super quickly, which really was a pleasant surprise for free shipping. They looked alright so I got them installed on the car - I'll share some more detailed thoughts if anyone is interested. I HATE the way the orange powdercoating looks on the car compared to the black CX coils, but it's not that big a deal in the grand scheme of things. Then, on the THIRD weekend of this project, I had the correct PS o-ring and was able to get everything reassembled. Safe to say, it made a tremendous improvement to how the car rides and handles. Between the delrin subframe bushings, fresh control arms, new steering rack / tie rods, the front end feel of the car is totally transformed for the better. My dash mounts are pretty destroyed, and this nearly eliminated all the squeaking over rough roads. Next post I'll talk about alignment / new tires / unexpected issues portion of the subframe install saga...
    4 points
  36. Had a set back after a 6500 rpm launch that dead hooked @ 20 psi or so. It was one of those launches where I was like "I should probably check the drivetrain." Ended up twisting by rear billet 4340 axle stub adapters. Slipped it pretty well, so I think this failure is an excessive torque failure and not an excessive shock failure. The reason why I had to design these in the first place is so that I could use the 27 tooth spline Eaton Detroit TruTrac LSD in the rear and also use the stronger 960 MKI rear axle. I originally wanted to through harden the V1s but the manufacture was unable to cut the spline after through hardening and cutting the spline before causes deformation after heat treat. This could be solved with test batches but its not feasible for small batches / one off production. Instead they were manufactured from annealed 4340 and the splines induction hardened. Unfortunately this was not strong enough for my application. It did however provide an awesome proof of concept and allowed me to get something working and the car driving. V2 are 4340 through hardened to 50HRC and the spline was cut after through hardening using spark erosion and a 2D DXF drawing of the spline I provided. This achieves incredible strength and a perfect spline fit. The new V2 stubs are calculated to be 2.8x stronger. I will prove this in real life over the next couple of months. They have the following improvements: 1. Proper spline neck down (allows the shaft to twist almost 2x as much as V1s without yielding) 2. Spline length was reduced to be the exact same length as its counterpart. 3. Added another OD to better center the stub in the diff 4. Spark erosion cut spline allowed for through hardening to 50HRC and perfect spline geometry. I also made some overall improvements on the car in this time: New turbo oil feed New boost control system Changed the oil and got a Blackstone oil analysis. I am very happy with the results from the oil report. This engine has about 2500 miles on it with probably close to 400 pulls on it. I have 259 data log files and some of the pulls I haven't logged. There was nothing out of the ordinary detected and the report came to conclusion that the engine is in great health based upon the contents of the oil. Lastly I got the new stubs installed and was able to start ripping on it again. Did about 34 pulls on the new stubs so far. Will launch test shortly. Car pulls really hard in 2nd gear @ 30 psi with zero traction loss or delay. 0.85G so far. Goal is to reach 1G in 2nd gear so that I can horizontally sky dive on demand. Some 2nd gear pulls in the video below. I just finished another round of huge improvements / upgrades. About 90% done so I need to start editing the footage. Stay tuned.
    4 points
  37. I finally got the ride height dialed how I wanted it. This is all the way down on the Maxpeedingrods front coil overs for anyone who cares. I removed the lower adjusting collars, and the spring perch is now tightened down directly against the lower body of the coil-over. This is the stance I've wanted to achieve for a decade and the crazy thing is that it drives way smoother than the R which is on Koni Yellows and IPD springs.. Anyways, it's all aligned now, and the A/C is charged and working. All is good with this car right now.
    4 points
  38. I have had this same issue and fried a Cyl 2 coilpack when flashing the very first time I installed COP. In my case this was due to a 10k SMD resistor on the B10 line missing from old outdated instructions I have used, without those instructions mentioning to disconnect the coilpacks during flashing. That is to say, I believe the new instructions simply say not to flash with the coilpacks connected, but on my ECU it was fixed by adding that 10k resistor on the B10 line - it mitigates the 5v output to Cyl 2 during flashing. Unfortunately, and even when looking through my backups, I have since lost the picture that shows exactly which resistor it is. But until that time; just flash with cyl 2 disconnected. It will not happen on other cylinders.
    4 points
  39. I had a chance to weigh the car today. 3560lb (1620KG) with 12 gallons of E85. 3700lb when I stepped on the scale. I weighed it FWD and it was 3300lb without me and 3450lb with me ( with 6 gallons )... so lets say 3350 with 12 gallons. So about 200lb of added weight and insanely improved traction!!!! Seems like a win to me! The gain in traction should significantly out weigh the added weight. If the drivetrain can survive 800awhp highs 9s are possible at this weight. This is full interior, full accessories, spare tire, jack, etc etc. Literally absolutely 0 weight reduction. Really not that bad!! I want to put a 5 point roll bar in the car with seats and harnesses. This will allow me to run 10.00 or slower at offical NHRA events. Those front seats are so heavy my goal is to come out to about the same weight with the added roll bar.
    4 points
  40. Okay, story time. Fast forward 2 months after having my injectors cleaned and serviced (see post above) and I'm about 1 hour into the 200 mile, 3+ hour drive from my parents house in RI back to my place in NY. If you remember, the last time I made this drive, I popped a tire on a pothole and it took 5 hours to drive the rest of the way on the donut spare. I drove past the area where I got the flat tire and think that was the worst drive home I've ever had. Well, I sure jinxed myself.... I'm cruising along at 65-70 mph and my car starts feeling down on power. I'm mildly confused, but not too alarmed at this point. I assume an intercooler hose is loose or something relatively benign like that. So I make it to the next exit and when I start driving down the ramp, a huge plume of smoke starts billowing out from the back of the car My first thought is that my car was now on fire So I pull over and turn the ignition off, then get out as fast as I can. The smoke died down when I turned the car off, which was both relieving and worrying. I spend some time troubleshooting on the side of the road, but couldn't get my car to start back up again. Now, it's a Sunday afternoon in July, during a global pandemic. It was 90 plus degrees out and I was sweating my ass off on the side of the road with a dead car and 2 hours of highway between me and home. I wasn't having a particularly fun time. With the realization that I wasn't making it back to NY, I started figuring out where I could get my car towed to. I realized I was actually pretty close to Re-Volv, so I called @Tom. to see if he or Nick @NGBwere around and able to give me a hand. As it turns out, Nick was at the shop. Tom called Nick and Nick was kind enough to get the flatbed, drive out, and tow my car back to Re-Volv. I spent another night at my parents place in RI, and waited for an update from Re-Volv. On Monday afternoon, Tom figured out that one of the injectors got stuck open and was dumping fuel into the cylinder. It flooded the motor badly enough to cause it to stall out. Thankfully, it didn't hydrolock the motor or bend a rod. The smoke was from gas burning off in the exhaust system The good news was that when Tom put a used set of green injectors in, it fired up and ran normally again. As proof that no good deed goes unpunished by the car gods, getting my injectors preventatively serviced (to avoid issues) was, of course, the cause of a spectacular failure that left my car dead on the side of the road. But hey, daily driving a 20 year old Volvo is fun, right?
    4 points
  41. Hello guys ! Even If it's off-topic, I wanna give my thanks to everyone who helped this proiect reach almost 500 pages (!!!), and wish all of you lots of luck, health and fortune in this new year, and even If we are meant to social distance, I wish to send a virtual hug to everyone out there. Thanks for making VS what it is today ! Happy new year !!!
    4 points
  42. It's not new except to me but I have 6 struts to do in the next couple months and this will make it much easier. The tool lived in a local body shop and while it was well used it was also greased regularly and not abused. They upgraded to a larger one.
    4 points
  43. Installed Snow water/meth injection in the R and an AEM wideband. Forgot to take pics.
    3 points
  44. It's been a while for this car, but it's back and better than ever.
    3 points
  45. I've spent entirely too long thinking about Volvos...
    3 points
  46. Thanks for the kind words! Ill checkout that website. The helmet (3M SPEEDGLASS 9002NC) I got is absolutely fantastic. I went from looking through Vaseline to looking through glass. Its very very clear when there is no arc going and also very clear when there is an arc. I went mandrel because in order to fit 3.5" with all of the AWD crap and good air gaps I need 2" CLR which is only possible with pie cuts. No one will make below 5" CLR for 3.5" OD. My wastegate also dumps to atmosphere so 3.5" with straight through muffler should be plenty for my "4 cyl" up to 1200hp. Finished up the exhaust! Got a bit better at welding and it sounds awesome!
    3 points