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Factory fresh 18" anthracite Pegs and P-Zero's:

Latest.

Picked up this S60 last week for $235. It's a 2.4t. Just got it running yesterday with a junkyard 16t (the 13t the guy included from his S70 didn't fit due to the coolant lines... he removed the original turbo to troubleshoot the other car since this one was just sitting). Currently I'm working on figuring out a transmission issue... which I actually think may be the passenger side axle not fully seated. The PO told me the transmission just stopped working while he was driving with no warnings whatsoever.

Playing a bit with my camera... Nikon only.

Put an EZ lip on the 944. Still waiting on those clear front side markers. 🙄

my Volvo master tech friend bought it, going to do a full motor build. Sleeves, rods, pistons, big turbo. Hoping for 500whp I'll post pictures as his build goes along since he isn't on here

Wait, what??!! It's more than weird, it's the friggin apocalypse!!

http://1dollarscan.com/sp/?gclid=CjwKCAjw0tHoBRBhEiwAvP1GFVUpFOfsyl4Ypptmc5hYGOZjzqLmBE6Ti-Mg7yd51Po0CgK_DsFnlRoCERAQAvD_BwE

Was a lot of fun. Too short though 😞 F1.7 is to shallow. left the wrong export settings on that C in the corner is not needed! 😄

From earlier today at Ithaca Euro Meet with @AJp80 Had a fantastic time, weather was perfect and it was awesome to see both @apeacock @lookforjoe again

You probably won’t notice much of a difference over the 19T. I expect you’d run into pre-turbo exhaust backpressure related issues before seeing any noticeable power improvement over a 19T. An engine is an air pump - you need to move air into and out of it to make power. By continuing to enlarge the compressor wheel, you’re trying to feed more air in, without an increase in flow out of the engine. The turbine wheel is recognized to be the most restrictive part of the turbo/exhaust system, so without increasing the flow through the turbine, you’re ultimately limited with how much air, and therefore torque/power, you can make.

@black855r I'm assuming you're going for AFR readout for petrol fuel. So looks like the 30-0300 AEM gauge has the same transfer function as mine, which is AFR = 2.375 * volts + 7.3125 // note the output units here are AFR, except for the 2nd term (2.375) which, if you think about it, is in AFR/volts (AFR per volts) units. As my old algebra teacher used to emphasize, it's very important to understand what your units are in an equation. So we need to figure out how to convert that 2.375 term above into something the ecu understands, since we're hooking up the output voltage from the AFR sensor to an A/D (analog to digital) convertor in the ecu (aka the tank sensor gauge input) which we happen know is an 8bit convertor so it has a numeric output range of 0-255 bits. Then to convert the AFR/volts term to AFR/bit, we need to multiply it by a term in units of volts/bit. That term is 5v/256bits, which is the voltage span of the A/D divided by the bit output span (i.e. 2^8 = 256). ==> 2.375 AFR/volts * 5volts/256bits = 0.0464 in units of AFR/bit (rounded to 3 significant digits). AFR = 0.0464 * x (in bits) + 7.3125

Help us help you. You'll need the analog output conversion table for this gauge which will be in the instruction manual. What's the AEM part number? Various manuals can be found here: https://www.aemelectronics.com/products/instructions/download

Driveline and the downpipe are in. Lens flares are extra

Perhaps the reflashed ECU is programmed to detect knock or detonation and that's why it flashes? My ARD tune does not have this feature, but my tune from Beust does.

Paid $2,000 for this 04 v70, two owners with almost 69,000 miles on it.

#savetheawdvolvos

A Bang Bang? or more of the decel crackle? Here is one I did... It flows about 800-900KG/Hr when doing the bang bang. Must be hell for the exhaust valves. Ill have a XDF finished soonTM. Should have that and some more goodies.

Hello guys, been a long time since i got a chance to actually build something volvo related. Been trying to get back to whiteblocks for 5 years and now finally managed to do that. What started out as a simple naturally aspirated 5 cylinder swap to my "daily-beater", so i could have a little fun with it, has come to a point, where when i get what i want from the engine, i'm going to swap it to a proper chassy for drag use. So to make long story a little shorter - here's my beemer 5 years ago: Meanwhile, it has had several engines, starting with 1.8 83kw stock engine, then 3.0 v8 engine, then again 1.8 engine that ran on 2,5bar of boost, then 2.0 6 cylinder with turbo and finally what the thread is about - whiteblock. So about the "thing" itself - Regular e36 body, minor mods in the front suspension, mostly everything rebuilt few years ago. So far i've used it for dragracing and also drifting as my own entertainment. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A-tc4J13qEI https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YnyuSwJJvnc Sad part is.. my best ET so far is 13,625@162kmh with my 1.8 engine and 0,9bar of boost, so i haven't succeeded much But this year not should, but WILL be different So the engine.. i started the swap with B5254S from my old volvo 440, got to drive it just a little around garage when its life got ended due to oiling error. That sorted out.. new life on the chassy started b5204T engine i picked up. Looked for specifically 2.0 due to 81mm cylinder, so it would handle more power I will not bother you with every little detail i have made, so i'll let the pics to the job (dynosheet is in KW) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0HP5sSOPZgM https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ibOjNT2byjA Engine: B5204T ECU: Megasquirt 3v3.0 Turbo: Holset HX50 Wastegate: from Audi AAN Injectors: Siemens deka 825cc Fuel pump: Walbro 450lph FPR: Turbosmart Clutch: tdi pressure plate with bmw disc Gearbox: Getrag 240 For drag season, on the shelf i have forged rods, crank from D5 engine waiting, and also plan for better clutch and double-VVT(for now just exhaust cam). Been to dyno 2 times.. first time was just to see if things work like they should and get some idea what kind of power it'll make.. second time went to turn up some boost The result is 340hp/378nm at the wheels so about 360hp/400nm from engine at 20psi of boost Exhaust manifold is stock at the moment and is also next thing to be replaced... doesn't flow at all So new header incoming and then i'll go for 400whp with yet stock internals

18" fits fine on my lowered 1998 VR. IPD springs/Koni shocks in the front and nivo drops in the back. Fender liners are still 100% intact (except where they have rubbed through at steering lock) Will it rub over large dips and at full lock? Yes. Is it severe? No. Just know the game you're playing. 18" looks so good I don't want to go back to the 17"s I had before.

Went for a cruise. Car drives amazing, but needs some adjustments and tweaks. Volvo V70R Front by britt edward, on Flickr Volvo V70R Side by britt edward, on Flickr Had some major delays getting it back on the road, mostly due to part availability and delivery times. Last round of work included: 4 new axles and all seals New wheel bearings all around Refurbished rear knuckles Front control arms, inner/ outer tie rods, sway bar endlinks 4 Piston brembos and 330mm rotors on all 4 corners 4 new ABS sensors Front/ rear diff fluid flush Coolant flush Oil change New Parking brake cables New Parking Brake shoes (still fighting with these!) New Headlights Modified XC Grill

Replaced the window switch unit.

So, I've been tinkering with my M4.3 for a while, trying out some different stock maps (mainly 627 and 134 in my originally 074 T5), and have been getting pretty good results. The 627 and 134 seem to be exactly the same from what I can tell, and the 074 is the base map I'm working from, since that's what my car came with. But I got a little bored... I stumbled upon an eBay seller listing about a million different tune files for Volvos, from 850 to X70/60 and beyond (there's things like FH12/16, FMs and FLs in there... 😮 ), for 5 bucks, so I thought I'd give them a whirl in Motronic Suite and see what was actually there. Lo and behold... these don't look bad to my admittedly relatively noob eyes. They actually look pretty darn good - actually makes me wonder where they came from - there are maps edited in there that we don't know what are, but consistently and pretty conservatively edited, looking like someone actually knew what they were doing. But before I try running any of them, I thought I'd see what you guys think. So take a peek, and fire up the torches. 😉 627 eBay "Stage 1" vs stock 627 file from Motronic: Boost map: VE map: Ign map, PT: MAF limit across the board is set to 255, which I gather doesn't really mean much other than that the ECU will never hit it, so that's fine. Check out the list of maps/tables that have been edited: Changes list, eBay: To me, the 627 "Stage 1" looks like it's targeting 1 bar of boost, and a pretty standard BSR/RICA (or iPD) 275~280 HP tune. I've also looked at the 074 files, and they've been edited like these - seemingly correct to me, with fuel/ign/boost all appearing to be pretty safe maps... The 074 map seems to target about 11.5 psi, up from ~8 stock, and peaking to 1 bar on overboost. What do you guys think? Stolen, "legitimate" tune files? 😮 - S

Yeah Facebook ruined the internet, including this forum... which sucks because the fb group is full of morons.

Worked on the finish welds for the intake, built most of the header, and chopped up the parts car to make the test bed for K24 motor & custom dash projects Cone engineering merge collector & collector Blacked out the headlamps on the C30, and fitting Morimoto Bi-Xenon projectors. Just waiting for the SKBOWE kits for final install wetsanded and polished the lenses, not perfect but much better Modified housing & added extra socket so all wiring goes out with factory look Also gathering parts for the AWD conversion. M66 AWD with Quaife getting ready Broke down & bought the Volvo left axle puller. Going to build a Haldex controller, in the probable event the Gen3 controller doesn't work as it should