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Im back! Didnt last a year without a Volvo. Picked up a new family hauler. Nice car but headlights needed sanded bad.

Stumbled across this R today near my home. Guy was the fifth owner of it. A DC car. Not bad, but needs some TLC compared to Red.

I can't blame you for getting side-tracked by the new truck - that LX570 looks really cool, those are super nice. My buddy picked up a J200 Land Cruiser (I forget which year) a little ways back and it's a really impressive vehicle. Yeah, I was really surprised by how much it helped out. Yeah, I'm running the 99 transmission mount on with the bracket Hussein made. Thanks! Yeah, I've been really impressed with the M12 impact so far. I use it for just about anything on the car I can. To pick up where I left off on my last post, I replaced the OEM battery cables with some upgraded cables I made myself - what I did is not very different than the "Big 3" upgrade described in this write-up. Most of you probably know that the stock cables are notorious for voltage drop as they age, especially on the 99/00 models. While I never experienced any voltage drop issues on this car, with a stereo system upgrade in the future, it was a good time to upgrade. To start, I removed the stock cables from the factory loom, which was the most tedious part of the whole process, and used them as templates to order new bulk cable and battery terminals from KnuKonceptz. I used 1/0 AWG Kolossus Flex for the main alternator/starter/battery cables, 4 AWG cable for the B+ cable to the main fusebox, and 8 AWG for the ground straps on the cylinder head. Given the stock alternator is rated at 125 amps, I used a reference chart from Crutchfield to verify the wire size for each new cable would meet/exceed the ampacity of the stock cables. The new alternator/starter/battery cables basically follow the stock routing, but are outside of the main engine harness - while the Kolossus Flex cable is flexible enough to follow the stock routing, unfortunately there was not enough room in the stock plastic housing for the new cables to fit. The cables are terminated with crimped-on ring terminals and adhesive-lined heat shrink boots. I used a pair of Bassik battery terminals - I'm not 100% sold on continuing to use them due to the space constraints caused by the stock airbox, but they were the best available choice in terms on physical size and still offering a variety of set screws to work with the ring terminals on the cables. I may try a pair of top-post "mil-spec" terminal from Napa at some point in the future. The 4 AWG wire fit fit neatly into the stock rubber boot and loom at the main fusebox. Form a 90* bend in the ring terminal inside the fusebox allowed it to join right up to the stock terminal post and keep everything clean/stock-looking. I replaced the 2 braided ground straps that run from the cam cover to the chassis with 8 AWG. And last but not least, I ran a length of 1/0 AWG from the battery to the truck to supply power a stereo amplifier and AC power inverter. The 1/0 fits through the drivers side accessory grommet, but just barely. I wanted to keep the "wiring train" rolling, so I ran all the wiring for my AEM WBO2 and boost gauges. During the engine swap last year, I had a friend add a bung to the stock downpipe. I am planning on adding a 3" downpipe in the near future, but it doesn't hurt to keep an eye on the AFRs in the meantime. Since there wasn't room in the accessory pass-through, I ran the WB wires through the firewall grommet on the drivers side of the car, then through an open spot on the fusebox to get behind/underneath the dashboard. The boost gauge and oil pressure gauge wiring fits neatly through the accessory pass-through with the stereo power cable. I'm using the previous-gen AEM UEGO, which utilizes a Bosch LSU 4.2 sensor. The current gen uses the newer Bosch LSU 4.9 sensor, and is much faster/more accurate. Conveniently, the LSU 4.2 sensor is the same as the stock front O2 sensor, and the plugs are even identical: This means I can quickly swap sensors between the ECU and the AEM gauge to troubleshoot if I suspect there's an issue with one of them. I made a sub-harness that connects to the stock accessory connector to supply power to all 3 A-pillar gauges (WBO2, boost, and future oil pressure): I replaced the stock accessory connector with a 6 pin weatherpack connector, then ran my relay so that everything is ignition-switched while ensuring there was adequate power supply (10 amps for WB02, <1 amp each for the other gauges). Each gauge plugs into one of the 2-pin weatherpack connectors, and allows me to easily remove one or all the gauges if needed. The junctions are properly parallel-spliced and heat-shrunk. I don't use solder for anything on a car - crimped joints are much more tolerant of the vibration that a car generates and will be more reliable in the long run. Using the proper crimp tool, weatherpack terminals are inexpensive, reliable and easy to terminate: You can save yourself the trouble and buy a pre-made harness from @JVC that plugs right into the stock accessory connector. I installed mine a few days before he put the F/S ad up, otherwise I would've bought one. One day this summer, I ran some errands, went back into my apartment, then came back out to finish unloading the car and saw this mess The piece of heater hose I used to delete the PCV banjo bolt system had failed and was leaking coolant. I pulled it apart, and went to install the stock hose/banjo bolt assembly and ran into a small snag: I'm running an 04 engine, but used the 00 thermostat housing so I can replace the thermostat without needing to remove the whole housing. As it turns out, the 04 PCV coolant hose needed to be trimmed to fit on the 00 housing. Once the hose was cut and the orientation adjusted, it was an easy install. Since I had previously deleted/blocked off the banjo bolt, I took the opportunity to install the updated banjo bolt with the internal check valve, PN 31325709. While I was in there, I replaced the thermostat and put a new o-ring on, and replaced the Reinz thermostat housing gasket with an OEM one. The Reinz gasket had slowly leaked ever since I installed it, so I'm glad that leak is gone. There's factory TSB that advises using 2 gaskets in that location to prevent leaks, but mine has been okay so far. I've got spare gaskets sitting on the shelf if problems arise. While I had the intake manifold off and everything torn apart, I replaced the worn-out vacuum check valves with new OEM valves (PN: 1275226 - thanks @B Mac) and most of the rubber vacuum lines with new silicone lines from FlexTech. The lines I replaced are the TCV lines, CBV line, and EVAP purge valve line. It may not seem like much, but I had been ignoring the vacuum lines since I swapped this engine into the car in January 2019 and I'm really glad I got that sorted out. Here's the stock P80 ME7 vacuum line diagram for reference: I used constant-tension clamps from Bel-Metric to keep each hose securely in place - no more messing around with zip ties to hold those lines on. It also gives the aftermarket lines a nice OEM+ appearance that I appreciate. I used several sizes of clamp based on the various OD sizes of the different hoses. I did not buy the CTC pliers, instead I used a pair of needle-nose vice grips. The vice grips made it easy to lock the clamp fully open, slide it into place, then slowly release the clamp in the orientation I wanted. Each clamp was placed so that future access with the needle-nose vice grips will be as easy as possible. Up next will the story of my injector woes

It runs!

I've mostly just been driving this everyday because I've been too busy to bite off any major projects. I guess I should get this thread caught up since my last "update" was about 11 months ago... Back in December, I was driving from my parent's house in RI to my place in Troy NY (3 hours and ~190 miles) and hit a pothole at about 60 mph. It blew a hole at 2 separate points in the sidewall - I'm actually shocked it didn't bend/crank the rim. The tire went flat almost instantly, but luckily I was able to pull over without anything else getting damaged. Fortunately, I had my new Milwaukee M12 Stubby impact with me, so it made getting the flat tire/wheel & 5x108 to 5x114 adapter removed, and spare tire installed a breeze. It was dark, cold, and I was on the shoulder of a highway, so I was appreciate of the time savings the impact offered vs. doing it all by hand. Getting the adapter bolts out of the hub by hand was not a fun scenario in that situation. Fortunately, the M12 had enough torque to spin the bolts out effortlessly. I was only about 40 minutes/35 miles into the drive, so it was a long trip home with 50 mph max speed of the donut spare on the car. Once I made it home (4.5 hours later, FML) my next step was to get a replacement tire and avoid needing to drive with the spare any longer so I bought a lightly used set of snows from a buddy and rocked the "peg leg" look until I was able to get them moved over onto my wheels. Otherwise, aside from a couple big storms, the rest of the winter was uneventful. Here's when we racked up ~2 feet of snow overnight in one storm. Sometime this winter, I was about to roll over 222,222 miles and took the opportunity to have a little fun with the trip odometer Made a run to scrap some old engine parts that had been hanging around the shed for too long: Spring rolled around and the COVD-19 shutdown happened, so I spent about 6 weeks working from home. During that time, I was able to get a bunch of smaller fixes/upgrades crossed off my "to-do" list. Since I didn't need to drive anywhere, I pulled my injectors and sent them off to be cleaned/flow tested. They're originally from my 99 R and had about 250,000 miles. It seemed like a good point to perform a little bit of preventative maintenance so I didn't have to worry about them failing down the road. Boy, did that come back to bite me in the ass. I'll explain a little later... Anyways, got the injectors back in about a week and half after mailing them out. The flow test results after cleaning showed a couple percent improvement at most, but they were basically in great shape to start and didn't have any issues. As a part of the service, they were ultrasonically cleaned, and the filter baskets, o-rings, and pintle caps all got replaced. Re-install was predictably easy - I took the opportunity to switch to the newer P2 style fuel rail clip and o-ring assembly: [ I've had a pair of Powerflex lower transmission mount bushings that I needed to install for a while. Upon removal, the stock mount was pretty gnarly looking, and the rubber bushings were totally worn out, so I'm glad to get the new bushings installed Without access to a shop press, and no desire to burn the bushings out and deal with the mess/odors that accompany that technique, I had to get a little creative with bushing removal. In case anyone is wondering, the pipe clamp worked extremely well and was easier to use than the C-clamp. Once the rubber center of each bushing had been pushed out, the outer plastic sleeves were easily removed with a large screwdriver, and cleaned up with a Dremel sanding drum: Knock the rusty surface down to clean metal again with a 60 grit roloc wheel in the die grinder Apply a couple coats of paint to keep everything protected and looking good, install the new bushings, and the finished product looks much nicer than when I started: The result was a tangible reduction in engine/transmission movement when shifting, especially at full throttle or under heavy load. I didn't notice any additional vibration at idle beyond what is caused by the poly upper engine/firewall bushings. I had an intermittent leak and excess wind noise coming from the top right corner of the windshield. Removal of the a-pillar trim and exterior drip guard trim lead to the discovery of a ~1" long by ~1/8" deep gap in the sealant under the windshield. It appears that when the windshield was replaced at some point prior to my ownership, there was insufficient sealant applied before the glass was set and the result was this small gap. I applied some black silicone to the gap from both the exterior and interior to make sure there was a good seal That fixed the wind noise and no water has come in since I applied the new silicone. I'll keep an eye on it as it ages, but hopefully that puts that issue to rest. When I had all the body work done a couple years ago, the drivers side skirt was replaced to fix some damage the PO caused near the front wheel well. I removed the R door sills prior to the car going to the body shop and hadn't reinstalled them yet. Scrape all the old tape off using a hair dryer and bone tool. Not fun, but not as bad as I expected. It took about 10 minutes per door sill to remove the old adhesive. A quick pass with some polish to clean them up, and it was time to reinstall with 3M high-strength double-sided foam tape. I'd been running one of the $30 eBay heater cores for a few years, but it started leaking so I replaced it with a Behr from FCP. It was leaking at 2 points - along the junction with the hardlines from the firewall, and at one of the endtanks: The Behr also had the same "improved" endtank/core junction design as the eBay core. There were a few significant construction differences between the Behr and eBay heater cores that are indicative of overall quality and why there's such a cost difference between the 2 products. I'll start a separate thread for those pictures, but it was pretty obvious why the heat output from the eBay core always seemed sub-par compared to the OEM core. The drivers side carpet foam was soaked, so it sat outside of the car for a few days to dry out. It's not perfect, but it's far less saturated than it was previously so I'm happy. I will follow up with another post to show how I fixed a slow coolant leak at the thermostat housing and PCV hose, made my own replacement battery cables, installed silicone vac lines, and my fuel injector issue.... I'll also probably reduce the size of some of the images in this post, that's a bit annoying...

Got it off the jack stands yesterday, gave it a quick wash - it looks pretty good overall. I want to drive it for a couple weeks before I pull the drivetrain & finish the undercarriage repairs.

The red car had been sitting in a garage for the last five years. I did get it cleaned up, but I am chasing down vacuum leaks.

First drive went well except some small issues with the rear cv boots...

How about an OG Zoom?

insert gif of someone saying "totally tubular!" while also flashing the hang-loose sign.

OK so I found my notes on this... kinda... the rest im gonna piece together with my general knowledge of EFI and stuff I found on the internet. So you can't just plug in the raw values because we have no idea how M44s constant was calculated and with what units... tL(ms) = mL / (n x K1) mL is corrected air mass. n is engine speed rpm. K1 is calculated constant. Lets pretend this is how K1 is calculated nCyl*14,7*Qstat[g/min]*0,0000167[ms/min]*60[min/h] / 1000[g/kg] Lets try this with 315cc injectors at idle (840rpm & 14kg/hr) K1 = 5 * 14.7 * 226g/min * 0.0000167 * 60 / 1000. K1 = .0166 tL = 14kg/hr / (840 * .0166) = 1ms Seems pretty legit. Honestly what I would do is look back at your logs and just try to solve for K (since we have no idea how M44s is calculated or what units it uses) with the units you want to use... it should always remain constant. tL(ms) = mL / (n x K1) (n * K1) = mL / tL K = mL (KG/HR) / tL (ms) / n (RPM) Plug values from your log in and you'll always get the same K, then just use that K. ~Matt

I need to document the modifications made to the car and drivetrain before I forget them. Below is everything that has been done to the chassis, engine, transmission, brakes, turbo, etc.: Engine: B5244T3 LPT Block from a '02 S60, Shimmed cylinders, B&B, Ported and Polished, matched Intake and Exhaust Mani ports ENEM Sport Cams CXRacing Forged H-Beam Rods Custom Wesco Pistons with 25mm wrist pins APR Head bolts MPRE Oil Gate Evan's Waterless Coolant converted "Green" 450cc Injectors installed, 650cc Injectors ready for fuel pump upgrade Snabb Intake spacer and Exhaust gasket Samco Silicone Hoses IPD Upper Engine Stabilizer New Bosch Starter XMODEX Rebuilt Throttle Body (Contact-less Position Sensor) Turbo: 20T Turbo with 11 Blade Impeller and 11 Blade Compressor, balanced Intake: Snabb Intake pipe Custom designed 3" Core Intercooler. Custom Pipe routing with Methanol Injection. K&N Intake Mini Filter and Housing Exhaust: Japanafold Exhaust Manifold (from a 2004 S60R) EuroSport Tuning Downpipe EuroSport Tuning Cat Back Dual outlet full Exhaust Ceramic Coating (black with silver tips) New O2 Sensors with spacers. Transmission: M66 from a 04 S60 AWD, refreshed with new bearings, seals and coupler Quaife LSD Kalmar Union Single Mass Flywheel AP Racing Clutch P2 V70R Slave Clutch Suspension: Ohlins 8-way adjustable shocks (front) TME Spring set for Ohlins springs (front and rear) Rear Ohlins shocks need repair TME Strut Tower Brace IPD Swaybar, Front IPD HD Swaybar Links Chassis: New Heater Core and lines Fully replaced rear drive shaft with new center carrier bearing New fog lights GlowShift Oil Pressure Gauge Cooling Mist Methanol Gauge Armrest, Shift boot, Steering Wheel and e-brake boot all custom made to match seats Manual Ball Shifter with Shift pattern and Button IPD Mesh Black Gille 70 Series (no longer available from IPD) WRX-STI Front Lip Sound deadening installed under all panels and rear hatch. Wheels & Tires: Ronal R39 "Ferris" 18x8, powder coated Dark Grey with paint to match center caps (currently only have 1) Bridgestone Potenza Pole Position XL 235/40R-18 tires Brakes: Brembo/IPD Big Brake Kit, all fresh rubber, powder coated Bright Yellow. 330mm High Carbon Discs front Stainless Steel Brake Lines front and rear Porterfield R1-4 Carbon/Kevlar street compound pads I'm sure there's more and I'll add it as I remember. It seems like a lot, but also not that much...

That's $5000 worth of repairs?!! Yes, that's a ripoff. BTW that's 2x what that car is worth. Engine oil leaks: Unless your car's leaving huge puddles of oil on the ground, it's not that critical that it's fixed asap. It could stay that way for years; just keep an eye on your oil level and make sure it doesn't get too low. A lot more oil will go out the tail pipe (e.g. via leaking valve guide seals) than will ever leak on the ground. If you do the repair yourself, you can go one of two ways: buy the OEM lines and seals from fcp or ipd for about $300 IIRC and install them, or rebuild the lines by replacing just the rubber hose part. That's what I and others here have done; total parts cost is less than $100. The air pump on your car has absolutely nothing to do with driveability; it's a smog device and since you're in WA, I doubt they even check its functionality. Unless it's setting a code I don't think you should care about it. Any brake hose over 10 years old is going to looked cracked. And they will continue to look cracked for at least another 10 years before they even start to begin to fail. If you're that concerned about it, get some aftermarket steel braided lines for about $100 and install them yourself. Get yourself a pressure brake bleeder for about $50 and go to town. Aftermarket CV axles can be had for about $70 a piece; yeah they're rebuilt and not the best, but plenty adequate for your purposes. You can rebuild your front suspension with OEM parts (I doubt your shop is using OEM) for less than $500, including the tools you'll need to do the job. They're recommending you fix stuff that isn't critical, and for ridiculous prices. For $5000, I'd expect a complete engine rebuild, but I'd never spend that.. If you want to learn how to repair cars yourself, you picked an excellent example with the volvo P80 platform. They're great cars and they're relatively easy to work on. Take it slow, one job at a time, and you'll soon be amazing yourself as to what you can accomplish. Then when you do need to go to a professional tech on occasion, you'll be able to discern yourself if he's BS'ing you, or not. There are good pro techs out there, I used to be one, but unfortunately there are as many (if not more) shady ones. It's sad, but true, even at dealerships. Don't know if it's feasible, but see if local community college offers any auto tech classes; good way to learn. Can always post on VS if you get stuck; good luck. PS; you should post something like this here BTW: http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/forum/6-fwdawd-1998-and-prior/

325,000+ I bought the car at 67,000.

also, turn on ignition, then hit connect, and then start the engine.

SOLD

She Moves! The other day, I started her, and turned her around in the garage to do the fuel pump and cat back exhaust. First time it's moved under it's own power in almost 2 years. I did find out the turbo drain has a leak, and the power steering return line has a hole. But, other than that, good day

Damn, getting the band back together and shit.

just give me the CC info, Birthdate, SS number, driver license number and I'll take care of it Just kidding. Please don't. lol

its his first and only post good luck! ha

update for whoever founds this: I removed 2 screws on each side under the bumper to remove the plastic cover there is below I removed the 2 plastic grids on the bumper I removed the 2 main screws from below the bumper. They are there to hold the bumper Once removed, you can pull the bumper enough to put back the front section, without having to touch any of the rivets around the wheel (you let the bumper in place). You also need to remove some screws of the sides wings, but you can do it without taking out completely the wings. Here it is now ! 😊

Those are some OGs right there. I recognize yang, pras, and mesoam.

I only get a pic, no vid. This is the vid that gave everyone chubbies when we all started.

This looks like a forum I have been looking for; lots of performance upgrade information and support! Spent a few years (and quite a few dollars) bringing a 2002 V70 X/C up to a stage Zero. When I decided to upgrade, there did not seem to be many people who like to modify Volvo's for performance. I am currently upgrading the V70 X/C and would appreciate comments and advice. So far, here is what is going on: 16T turbo upgrade, green injectors, port matching and polishing on the head, polished interior surfaces of the exhaust manifold, Mototec down pipe and Touring exhaust, (Yes, I am past the loud car stage and am building a Stealth Volvo.), do88 drop in intercooler and piping, Snabb intake pipe, IPD TCV and a Hiliton tune. Motor is getting new rod bearings and a head gasket. Hoping the bottom end is in good shape at 170K miles; I would like to stop the money out flow. I have another 2002 V70 2.4T in good shape sitting in the driveway (annoying the wife) and I am considering an all out engine/tranny build just so I can beat my little brothers new BMW on the autocross track. This will have to wait for the X\C to get finished, but you never know... Manic Mike

Keep them until I realize I have a large box full of stuff I haven’t touched in multiple years. And then I throw them out.

Not a fan of HF at all. Everything I've ever bought there ended up in the sh*t can. Why risk your life to save a few bucks? Not worth it. Good quality tools don't cost that much more.

Correct, those Torx screws are for checking valve lash with the cam cover on. The early engines had them and the late ones did not, I'm not sure when the change occurred. Yes your 03 head should be solid lifters.

I don't have EGR on my 850 either, and the car was stock when I bought it. Well, you have a resource here. Be sure the bleed off the fuel pressure before you do the fuel filter. Also, Robert DIY is the man. I still refer to his videos.

All x70s had an SAS pump. It replaced the EGR on the 850s. The sas pump doesn’t have anything to do with your turbo. It’s for emissions. I think you really need to take a step back and take a breath. I mean no offense, I've been there, but you are overthinking the shit out of all of this. It's been leaking oil how long? You have no idea, you just got it. It could have been leaking for years...and it's been fine. An axle won't fall apart, but it could bind up if it gets bad enough. Either way, it will tell you when that's going to happen. Sit down. Drink a beer. Make a list of what needs to be addressed and just take it one at a time. Taking the car straight to a shop because you're overwhelmed with all of these things someone told you is wrong with the car (even though they've been wrong with the car for who knows how long) is going to cost you big money.

Few hours drive. Danny could knock out that list in a few hours if he had all the parts, but I don't think he has a place work on cars right now. I also don't know when the last time he worked on a car that wasn't his own. I see from your other posts that you are getting the cooler lines done for $500. That is a little high, but not bad for the job. The lines are probably 200 in parts, if they are stock Volvo.

5k is a lot. figure out what is safety and do that first. if you can’t wrench watch out, but we can help some over the tubes.

The strut mount I would do myself. I used to be able to do that in 30 minutes, but I am out of practice since I haven't had stock suspension for some time. Oil cooler lines leaking is common. $2000 to fix both? They are ripping you off. The vacuum lines and cooler pipes you could do yourself. I would do it all myself, but I have the tools to do it all. Do you have tools to do any of the work? Why does your car have an air pump? Is he talking about the turbo? That is the only air pump you should have.

IIRC bought with 111,000 in 2006 just shy of 200,000 now.

Believe the R cluster in the S70 shows 180k, while real mileage is likely closer to 300 as I bought it 10 years ago with 198k. lol.

Is #2 cracked? Or just the finish. andy gave you the right answers.

Looks pretty fixable. On a “broad strokes” overview, use a metal filler (think JB Weld) to fill in the gaps left by curb rash, then sand it all smooth and repaint the wheels. That would be easier with the tires removed, but can be done with the tires still installed if you’re careful Or, a professional wheel repair shop should have no problem repairing those if you’re not up to refinishing them yourself.

First thing, if you can, connect to the ecu using realterm then send an 'L' to enable permanent logging (until battery or ecu is pulled). Your should get a response from the ecu with a 'L' in it. If you get that response then you can try the logging again. Let us know how it goes.

Been playing around with this for the past couple of months. Volvo's have been sitting.

wow yeah drive it for a few years put tons of miles on it and sell it for the same price you bought it for nice deals! More pics! haha

This past week I've spent a few days on the nose again - I finally decided on a path for how to deal with resolving the headlamp opening & the spoiler vertical support Started here some filler work later.. Spoiler then tucks under verticals & over lower lips It was then suggested that I fill in the support to level it with the spoiler / fender skirt, and to resolve the inner fold of the vertical support that I hadn't figured out yet some skim coats of filler later followed by several more rounds of fill, sand, repeat. Some details to finalize, however it's pretty much where it needs to be, finally! lastly, cut up a V70 air guide Also revised the TB setup to resolve the jerky tip-in part throttle drivability issues. Replaced the 80mm TB with a 72mm made a new plenum adaptor to fit it - didn't want to rework the plenum itself, as it barely can be removed in the car as it is - adding to it would make it impossible made a bung for the MAP test fit the TB revised the connection to the air filter - used some of my left over (from the XR) pieces of IC piping & tubing to make the transisiton some issues with the TPS - turned out I didn't have the correct RSX Type S version, which has a reversed offset vs. other models - this is where it needed to be to get 0º throttle opening in the software - not good ordered the K-Tuned one, since it's meant to go with this TB - comes with a fancy billet cover, which I don't need & can't use with my space limitations All done & back together.

If it is just light rust starting, they didn't drive that much. I have seen an east coast car where the axle was fused to the wheel hub. Had to pull them out together and replace them both.

*Fades away*

Sunny days - 1998 S70 Every Other Day and most Sunny days - 2018 s60. Occasionally ill drive the fiancee's 2015 Kia optima lol. I live in Florida, our winters are your summers so its always what ever I feel like driving or which ever keys I half asleep grabbed on the way out the door.

wut

It's called being a dumbass. Don't drive with your feet.

Interesting. Chuck said he was going to work on it but he might be at a port talking to seamen. inside joke lol he will get it fixed I’m sure.

Got it! But i popped the same 2 codes as before, "Secondary injection system" and "running too rich" on my trip over to get the fender. Took it back to my mechanic and he recommended me to another shop. I was freaking out inside because i knew i was in too deep to turn back now. Bought a jack and jack stands after watching a video on safety when lifting and working under a car. This is not where i wanted to go cheep. I bought a Pittsburgh 3 ton low profile jack So i have an extra ton to use if i need it later. I'm glad i got the low profile jack as my C70 is pretty low at stock. Always use jack stands. The jack can and will fail No wooden blocks no cement blocks. only jack stands are truly safe when used in pairs. 2 Duralast 6 ton jack stands. not expensive. like $60. After looking up the jacking points i started to jack the car up on stable solid ground. I was being dumb and jacked the car on what i thought was a good place. The jack immediately slipped off the jack point (due to oil and the wrong jack point) at full height. My 3500 lb car just dropped on top of the jack With a loud thud. I turned to my new neighbor that heard the car drop and I started rapidly swearing. My heart was in the floor as my thought of all the money and fun and hope i have poured into this car so far may just be gone in a blink. I got back in, breathed a few times and started him up. It started just fine as usual. i drove around the block parked it back in the spot and gave it another shot. The mounting point was behind the front wheel its a triangle very thick piece of steel and you can't miss it and ill never make that mistake again. I had the car up and mounted on the jack stands ready to go. Looked under and no damage I can see from the fall but a bit of oil i see. Watched a quick video and went to town on the fender. It was even easier than the video because mines a 98' somehow. every bolt accessible didn't even have to take the front bumper cover off. Just angle the socket wrench up a bit and work it slow. I tightened all the bolts finger tight like the video stated then aligned it then torqued all the bolts a quarter turn. these bolts are not to be tighten to the max. The alignment iM going to try getting the paint marker off with magic eraser or a few other tricks i looked up tomorrow . I haven't put the emblem on yet. ill look it up unless you enjoy answering questions =D No more ugly yellow light. Where did they even find that? I decided to Clean up my engine Bay as so many of you have such beautiful engine bays. I took a bucket of hot water and bit dawn dish soap mixed in and just kept at it. Before After I never knew why my air conditioning smelled so bad. Now i know.. Smells amazing now. Remember those codes i popped again after getting the hoses re checked at my mechanic? i was so proud of my engine light being off. but check this out. After cleaning the crap out of the engine bay i stumbled across this tube here completely off and with nothing to secure it on. Where the zip tie is, is what tube was completely off. That tube is right next to the battery and connected to the front of the car. its wide like an oval. I zip tied it at both ends making sure the tube was secure enough to my liking. Im Pretty sure that's what my car was trying to tell me with the codes and i dont know how my mechanic missed it completely. I'm going tomorrow to get my engine light reset again. then ride the crap out of it to see if it pops another code. I happily called the new mechanic and said ill troubleshoot it and get back to them =D Having a blast here on VS and i found out there is another member here in my town. i have an eye out for his or her car. Im going to look into getting my little brother (more like my son) set up with a 70 series Volvo for him as well. im teaching him to drive which he has been scared to death. Today when he was learning with my c70 he had the biggest smile on his face i have seen in a long time. He's now interested in a 70 series and im researching one up for him here on VS. It will work out well because if i can learn it on my car i can also work on his. I'll update Edit: I was inspired to give My c70 the nickname "Old Beast" The color is that of beast from X-men and the name just fits.

Bud you're amazing. I will gladly help you with what knowledge I have and im sure others here will as well so fire away any questions you have. Throw the questions at us. Oh and do not forget to look at Ebay and Amazon to compare prices when looking at Tasca, FCP, IPD. Youd be surprised that the prices vary so much. Avoid the dealership unless they'll match Tasca's price which some will but some wont. Wish you were local, could definitely help with a quick once over of the car for you.

Under the knife

After alot of testing and rewriting code, we finally got a useful new mod working. As we all know, some time ago my dad Piet found out how to convert to bigger maf housings with the maf factor. Converting to a bigger maf only required multiplying the kg/h numbers in the maf table with a fixed factor, after which the new table is inserted in the bin with the maf editor. I had been playing with some idea's to integrate the maf factor in TunerPro, and came up with a method to do this internally in the ECU. I had this working in m43 already, but m44 proved to be a little more challenging. After a lot of testing and rewriting code we finally succeeded. We made a new function in the ECU programming which multiplies the maf table readout with a factor taken from a scalar in the bin. Of course, this scalar can be inserted in the xdf. So the only thing you need to do to configure your bigger maf, is entering the correct factor in TunerPro. People which already converted their maf tables should insert the stock maf table again for this to work. The ecu will take these values, and multiply them internally. Tuning in a new maf, with an unknown factor, becomes easy as well. You just need to note your kg/h number at idle with your old maf. After installing the new maf, and entering a rough guess for the new maf factor, you only have to finetune the maf factor scalar, to match the kg/h number you noted. Piece of cake with an Ostrich. It's been a while, but a new revision with new features is in the works. The new version will of course contain the maf factor mod, as well as Piet's wideband mod. There's some other new stuff we are working on (I've got something very useful in mind for the big turbo guys), but those might not make it into this release yet, as we really want to push it out as soon as we can. Together with the new release, I will update the filetree of the server hosting the software to make things a little more comprehensive.