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Ever since I got my 1969 Dodge Super Bee, Red has been ignored and left to sit in my garage during the summer and stored away in the winter. But since I sold my Quaife to a fellow member, I figured I should take Red to a tuner show and drop off the Quaife. She still looks good. I went to Sweden back in July 1998 to take delivery and spirit her around Sweden. 22 years old and only 126K miles.

Maybe it was out of boredom; The Saff is back in Denver with Aaron getting a heart transplant, Darton sleeves, Wiseco 10:1 pistons, 2.56 liter, new rods, KM cams... that’s a story for a later date. But I don’t curently have a Volvo to drive and I get kinda twitchy and angsty when I don’t have a Volvo to drive. Jane’s p3 na XC70 does not really count. Maybe it was out of jealousy; My co-worker Eliot has a clean black on black ‘98 S70t5a that always makes me long for the uber clean ‘98 s70 t5m (also black on black) that I stupidly sold 7 years ago to buy Ben Kaplan’s spendy coilovers for the Saff. It made sense at the time, but lord have I questioned that decision subsequently. It had an R bumper and springs and yellow konis (which don’t seem to exist anymore?!&@$), and it was owned by a doctor and only serviced at a dealership and it even had non delaminated door panels and it was immaculate and I sold it because I was dumb. And still am, to be fair. Maybe dumber. Happens with age. Regardless, I found a 161k bone stock ‘98 S70 T5M down in Grants Pass, a quaint meth-driven Southern Oregon hamlet. Did I mention they like their meth? The fella who was selling it knew enough to know it was a somewhat rare car with the factory m56, but he didn’t want an arm and a leg for the car and after talking with him for 45 minutes I knew he loved it and cared for it and that I wasn’t insane to send a deposit and book a one-way flight to nearby Medford. I swear most people who buy one way tickets to Medford, Oregon are doing so with the express purpose of transporting meth or sticky-icky or both back up to Portland. But not me, no sir. My addiction is far more dangerous and difficult to kick. Scary virus-laden plane ride: Craigslist pics: The plan is to keep this one stock, or mostly stock. Famous bleeping last words, right? But srsly... the Saff scratches that itch and then some. So, the plan when I bought this one was to lower, put on the Heicos that used to weigh the poor Saff down with their 28 pounds of girthy 10-spoky goodness, R bumper (I have a spare), paint correction and Jewels. So this weekend the car got full stage zero: -Bosch cap and rotor -Bosch plugs -Bougi wires (this b-itch is bad and bougi) -Bosch fuel filter -Bluebox PCV, complete -Air and cabin filters Previous owner replaced the Tbelt and water pump with an Aisin kit 8,000 miles ago, so happy day. Previous owner did not replace cam seals at that time, and now I get to do that because mr. cam seal is leaking, not so happy day. That will be later. Also put some H&R’s on along with the Heicos. Today on my lunch break I dropped the car off at my paint guy’s place for R bumper, re-spray rear bumper, rear spoiler, door trim, roof trim, PDR, and paint correction. Should have it back Friday. All that’s missing are the Jewels, which I’m hoping to grab from Will the Scott, and some R door panels. Who has em? Can’t find any on this coast and everyone that has them on SS are on the other coast and don’t want to ship. Anyway, I impulsively bought another Volvo and I’m a little bit ashamed and might go cut myself or ask a bum to put a cigarette out on my arm. Because, well, that’s what sick people do.

Quarantine boredom.

Reminds me of that scene in three stooges when they were pretending to be plumbers in that mansion.

Did a thing.

Popular to contrary belief, a stock XC70 on all-season tires can be loads of fun to autox.

I had some Alpine Type S's in my old S70 (fronts only) and they were a decent upgrade. But I've had a set of Rockford Fosgates sitting here waiting for my V70R for 3 or 4 years and I just can't bring myself to start messing with them. That and the Dynaudio setup in my XC90 are two of my favorite factory systems. The upgraded Harman/Kardon system in our new XC60 doesn't even sound as good to me as the older units, though I will say the B&O option in the new cars is fantastic but costs silly money. And, keeping us on topic...the yellow is about to get a full mechanical makeover. FCP paid a good chunk of their rent off of me this week 🤣

You're not kidding... every time I fix one leak on my mom's V8 Sport, I find another. So far I've done the timing cover, front crank seal, valve covers, and oil cooler o-ring. Now I can see that it's the oil pan... ugh, I'll get to it eventually!

Installed the Maxpeedingrods coilovers the other day. While I haven't driven it much yet as I'm waiting for an alignment, first impression is that it rides smoother than IPDs/Konis. Couldn't go wrong with these as the whole set is cheaper than just replacing front struts on the normal setup.. The fronts are as low as they go unless I remove the collar ring (which I may do later). Height is comparable to IPD springs as-is. The rears took a little effort to install, had to drill the lower shock bushing holes a little as they wouldn't fit over the studs. Also, at full droop (shock fully extended), the rear springs are slightly past full extension and loose. I don't think they are going to fall out or anything, but I am a little weary of going lower at this point. I may re-work the upper shock mounting a little higher so that it can't droop as much, but we'll see how this rides for a while first. I suspect everything will settle in and lower a little more as I drive it. This car has been in storage for about 2 years and I'm happy to be bringing it back to roadworthy over the rest of this summer. Copy

Got some parts back from manufacturing I designed...

Projects been a little slow waiting on parts, but still going!!

A couple years ago, someone who knows far more about audio equipment than I do told me that the SC-900/901 were designed for tape and that I should buy some cassette tapes. My memories of the sound quality from tape growing up in the 90 and 00s were pretty bad so I didn't really take it that seriously. Well about a month ago I was surfing ebay and decided I was gonna buy a tape and ended up with that Flecktones album on the right. I'm up to about 10 now lol. If you have a 901 and aren't using the tape deck, you're missing out. I guess we must have never had a decent tape deck when I was growing up in the 90s because this is amazing. Sounds absolutely fantastic on the stock V70 EQ curve and just slight adjustments to bass/treble as needed for a given tape. I've never had car audio that sounds so good with such little fuss.

Mine is dry as a bone.

Yet again - I'm taking a walk though the "List O'Things" from the first post. This is mostly for me to reevaluate and track things. So... you know... go look at the NSFW section for a bit. Removing the done stuff, since I can refer to an older post if I wonder what they are: 3 - Install the larger fuel pump that I bought for the old car so that this one will not suffer from low fuel pressure above 4K RPM - Pushing this out until after the car is up and running. Trying to focus on things to get it going and dividing things to GET IT GOING and AFTER IT'S GOING 5 - Repair the one rear Ohlins shock that was damaged when removing them from the old car; install the set, along with the strut brace. - First need to find a good repair shop, then install them while doing the fuel pump - Still waiting to find a shop that will take this on 6 - New hood liner to evict the rodents and their damage - AFTER 8 - Install the Cat back system from the old car and get a new down pipe, since I sold the old one - Down pipe Done, need that cat back in now 9 - Polish up the headlights, or find a set of Jewels. not doing the AMBs again. Sold the old set - AFTER 10 - Get the paint tended to, and do some... selective vinyl wrapping. Gotta make it mine, you know... - AFTER 12 - Figure out the issue with the VVT. Used to get errors under hard acceleration from the VVT. Would like that to stop - AFTER 14 - Since it will not be a work car, Some subs in the back and a full update to the audio system - AFTER 15 - Install the old alarm to add security and remote start; not sure if I'll install the window modules, but I really like one touch up and down windows... - AFTER 17 - New fog lights. Old are cracked. Also install the STI lip, 'cause the front end looks naked without it - AFTER 19 - Oil pressure gauge with Boost installed in custom pod below ashtray - NEXT WEEK - lol next week 20 - Meth Injection installed as well, with guage in pod - In Process 22 - Decide whether to refine the ARD Platinum Tune for better performance, or get a new tune - In talks with Hilton for Stage 3 Tune 23 - Replace the windshield - AFTER ADD: 24 - Door cards are shit. Need to re-laminate the inserts back in and repair the mounts. Also going to get some deadening in there while it's open and some good speakers Nothing like a checklist to keep you focused...

On our cars the O2 sensors are narrowband so can only read approx. 14 to 15 AFR (hence why your readings are going between 12 and 17 using your equation). You would need to fit a wideband sensor and controller to read a wider AFR range (to a separate gauge, you would need to modify the ecu binary to add it to the logging).

Car took a beating just over a month ago. First, I drove it to work that morning, so I could log the part throttle & warm up issues. Poured with rain, so I was able to confirm no water ingress. Finally resolved the drivability issues earlier that afternoon after reviewing the logs. Had to go buy a new battery also - my MT-24F was about 7 years old & no longer likes to hold a good cranking charge. Coming home from the drive to confirm throttle tip in & part throttle issues were gone, I rode over some debris in the bend of the exit ramp for the NYS Thruway , and went sideways enough that I had to quickly decide whether to cut it hard & go right off the roadway onto the grass divide, or hit the guardrail. Unfortunately there was the remnants of a post base where I left the roadway and it tore off the front sway bar and ripped out the oil pan (I found out after I stopped). The car dipped into the gully & slammed the nose hard. I steered it down the divide & back into the shoulder & turned it off. I looked under & saw all the oil gushing out. I don't know if I shut it down in time, probably 15-30sec from time of impact to shutdown. No injuries, just a little beat up from the nose dive Center section took a hit Water pipes pushed in, but not ruptured, cover peeled back, floor pans pushed in holes where the swaybar was ripped out rad support pushed back - rad seems fine - AC condenser, not so much. I think all the spoiler bracing I added helped mitigate the damage, as that must have absorbed some of the initial impact - after all, the entire nose didn't explode on me. forward k20 subframe bent - pan ruptured, but not pushed in. so oil pump & baffle kit should be OK Mount ears 'look' OK - I'll find out when I take it all apart. I'll be welding the cover panels instead of bonding next time crack in fiberglass, popped the rivet plug, stress fractures in the glass above the strip Door shunted the post Further damage from the drop off the tow truck Cleaned the car & undercarriage to remove all the mud. At least it looks good from the 3/4 views Started on the nose. Chopped off a couple inches to get beyond the worst cracks Took an S40 rear bumper cover chopped off the top sectioned the cover, and angled it to match nose, about 12º Cut the grille surround off what was left of the fiberglass spoiler. All that will be bonded together & merged into the fenders. Along with fibreglass panels around the headlamps back into the fenders The underside will have some reinforcement, just to keep the contour from dropping Plugging away at the nose repair. Got the sheet metal HL cover panels welded & filled. Worked on the nose / fender / grille transitins to get it all to flow nicely with the chopped version. S40 bumper section is going to work just fine for the spoiler. The spoiler/grille surround will be removable, so I need to figure out the mounting for the inner verticals, and make separate headlamp framing that is attached to the frame instead of to the grille surround as it was previously. Subframe section has been completed More back & forth (add material/remove material) on the nose & headlamp 'bucket' areas. Ideally, the surrounds should look similar to this: The difficulty is in getting the interpretation of the inner vertical 'scallop' - my center panel is not the same as the original - I don't have the setback & taper that matches - mine is vertical drop, then chamfer - so my version is to be an interpretation of the original. I adjusted my headlamp housing support system to offset the entire assembly about an inch rearward, so that it will sit with a slight recess at the outer lower corner, the shallowest point. There will be filler panels on all four sides to create the 'bucket' Lower ones have been added here, along with tie plates to merge the fender skirt wrap below the marker lamp aperture in the the vertical grille surround. I also need to reshape the headlamp cover areas, hence the additional bondo on top Overall, I think the simplified form will look good. Original modified fibreglass panel work back in 2016. Plan is eliminating all those hard corners around the headlamps & markers Working on getting that inner radius - hopefully without cutting further inboard - that will make attaching the (removable) spoiler & grille surround more difficult. I think I will be able to create enough of a visual taper & contour to the 'bucket' with some addtional fibreglass & bondo work. Just time consuming getting L & R evenly shaped, since this is all eyeballed. I did make small contour guide plates to test general conformity, but it still comes down to does it look 'right'.

Yes I did get very lucky. However I was standing as far to the side as I could With my arms fully stretched out which is why I think I avoided getting hurt. Definitely learned my lesson. It’s definitely opened my eyes up to slowing down a little and taking more time to think things through.

Thanks, and my thoughts exactly. Cruiser that still looks good enough to drop by a cars and coffee and not sully up the place, if there is ever such a thing as cars and coffee again. It is really kind of neat and novel to drive around in a stock T5... I kind of forgot how nice a job Volvo did with these right out of the box, lol. 😂😂 No doubt, and I’m pretty sure meth use creates some nice open sores, so kind of a win/win. I’ll more thoroughly cover the Saff’s new engine build soon... long story short is it looks like either a cracked block or head gasket failure on the motor from last summer, and I had regretted not going full-in with Darton sleeves the first go around so I decided just to do this right. The higher compression will greatly improve low-end umph and the cams will improve the top-end. Keeping the gen2 Garrett gtx3071r because I *really* like the turbo and Aaron also suspects we’ll be able to coax a bit more power out of this setup and get me well over 500 awhp, which is silly. I am addicted to Volvos and allergic to money, so here I am.

If its just the error lamp/MIL you want to disable, set 0xF3AB (IAC open fault) & 0xF3AC (IAC close fault) to 0 in the upper & lower banks.

Sweet S70! Was that the Cars and Coffee at Drivers Gallery? I almost went to that but decided not to last minute. Cool to see another local!

$200 shipped CONUS. International buyer pays shipping. 2 x 8” 300lb springs 2 x TA Technix Adjustable perches 2 x TKI Motorsport upper perches (no longer made, rare) Photo is the rear with the perches half way up. Puts it flush with the fender on 17s.

Hola compañero, veo que no has estado en este foro durante mucho tiempo, pero no tengo otro método para tratar de contactarte, el hecho es que te pido ayuda por tu alto conocimiento sobre el tema, soy el propietario de un Volvo S40 t4 b4194t con td04 19t, tubo de descarga de 3 "y escape completo de 3", intercooler grande, inyectores de 440cc, colector S60R, walbro 255 y actuador de forja con resorte rojo duro, pero no encuentro en mi país a nadie que sabe cómo sintonizar la ECU Siemens ems 2000, y como sé que ha tenido esta configuración en su automóvil, me gustaría poder comprarle los datos de sintonización o que me venda alguna ECU sintonizada, o poder enviar Usted la ECU de mi automóvil para poner su misma configuración, por el dinero no es un problema para mí, por favor necesito su ayuda, un saludo Hello partner, I see that you have not been in this forum for a long time but I have no other method of trying to contact you, the fact is that I ask you for help because of your high knowledge on the subject, I am the owner of a Volvo S40 t4 b4194t with td04 19t, 3 "dowpipe and 3" full exhaust, large intercooler, 440cc injectors, S60R manifold, walbro 255, and forge actuator with red hard spring, but I do not find in my country anyone who knows how to tune the Siemens ems 2000 ECU, and As I know that you have had this configuration in your car, I would like to be able to buy you the tuning data or that you sell me some tuned ECU, or be able to send you the ECU of my car to put your same configuration, for the money it is not a problem for me , please I need your help, kind regards

Thanks for the reply. I was afraid of that. You're right about car-part. There seem to be quite a few listed so this has at least alleviated my fears a little.

I love the sound of my 901 and 4x50 amp. I've been thinking about upgrading the speakers, but now I'm leaning towards just figuring out which ones are blown and replacing those with junkyard speakers. It's sure as hell cheaper! Lol They're not too bad, but at higher volumes they're very distorted with more bass.

why are you yelling at us

Since everything is being ported into PHP7 I decided to make my life easier and merge down a few sites. S40 Concepts, S60R and V70R.com are being merged into VS. If you had a paid membership on any of those forums it will carry over. Members originally on VS may see a few errors if you had accounts on the other forums. If you did post it up here and I will address as I can. Permissions and forums are rebuilding now so there will be errors. We are talking over 5 million cells so this will take a while.

Seriously just use Aaron. ^^^^^ Hes super patient too lol.

Do you want 300 horsepower at the crank or at the wheels? The difference between the two can be significant in terms of supporting mods needed. A 16t will get you to 300 crank horsepower with a full exhaust, blue/white injectors and an upgraded fuel pump. An upgraded intercooler certainly wouldn't hurt either. The above mods + a 19T or K24 would get you to 300 wheel horsepower. Replace the whites/blues with greens though. I would highly recommend running water methanol injection. I recommend the snow performance stage 1 kit to everyone - it's inexpensive and has everything you need. Also, a good tune custom suited to your mods and a tuner who is willing to help you troubleshoot mechanical issues along the way wouldn't be a bad idea 😉

I have an M56H in which I've installed a quaife lsd, new skf bearings and races on the diff, and new seals. I also have a shifter, pedals, master cylinder, new hydraulic line, new internal slave, new clutch switch, new 850r clutch kit, mpre short shifter, bracket, and spherical shifter bushings, new rear main seal, and a bunch of little fasteners, brackets, and stuff you'll need for the swap. I have virtually every part you will need as far as I'm aware except for the single mass flywheel. Video of shifting through the gears: https://i.imgur.com/Pik5uTG.mp4 Here's an album of pictures I found when I installed the quaife: https://imgur.com/a/OUvobrA Here's an album of all the stuff I have: https://imgur.com/a/SzwVMi1 The pictures are annotated with more details. I'm asking $2000 plus shipping for everything.

The MSD is equivalent to the factory Bosch coil, it's just much less expensive. If the dwell table is correctly configured for the MSD coil it performs well. 20G is a reference only to the compressor blade. There are many configuration options that exist with varying hotsides. Yes, a 8cm TD05 hotside, like the one you ran years ago, is too small, but you can get a 20G with a 10cm TD06SL2 or 8cm TD06H that would be a very good performing low 400WHP turbo.

Hi everybody. Some of my audio upgrades can make its cars (96 855R). My headunit stopped playing CDs and sometimes I like to listen to them; My speakers also do not overheat. I tend to like some good bass and I don't want to include anything that takes up cargo space, like a giant subwoofer, and I'll play my favorite music. Thank you for the help. In addition to the sound of speakers and bass, I also use audio for my phone. After some research, I found an address that provides free ringtones for Samsung phones and other models. You can download it at sonneries gratuites telephone samsung to set free phone ringtones.

Don't worry, I made the same mistake years ago when I tried to hook up an AFR gauge to my narrowband. It's just part of the learning curve. I guess that back in the 90s wideband sensors were expensive and possibly not as reliable or available as a narrowband? or maybe the control technology was too expensive? Would need to research it for better clarification. The wideband sensor uses a different heater control method to the narrowband hence why a controller is needed (where if you hooked up the wideband direct to the ecu it wouldn't work properly and may even cause some damage).

Where have you been hiding? I think Mike mentioned you a few days ago which made me wonder.

what a timeless design looks good

baller!

I'm gonna put all my build mods in one thread - hard to keep track of all the separate closed threads.. The begining - Oct '07 misc stuff first... I'll try to list in chronological order. 17" pegs Rear Spoiler, EST dual exhaust, "cross country" delete.. EST ABM's & SharpHID's lo & fogs "R" door panels Rear seat heaters 20% tint & pillar blackout (3M 73602 3" black tape) poly torque mount & new style firewall mount horn relocate 18" pegs, 302mm brakes Amp & subwoofers Tombone endlinks Bumper, grille paint & new emblem "R" sill plates Tailight tint 1st dyno.. 223WHP/291tq (runfile 238) lower shores performance MBC 3 gauge pod EGT, Boost, Wideband, intake temp IPD BBK Raceway Park > best time (19T - running 15psi (TCV) Eyelids...

Use a bigger font. i think a 23 should be good for 400+ so what else have you done not the right topic since its not ecu related

You may want to edit the header to say 1998 through 2000 as they're all the same. You know, I know, but someone just may have an R that blew an engine or got wrecked, was the owner's 1st Volvo and just may not know!

Yep you got it. Its to use the P2 style Press in brass tube & filter. The P80 angle gear, as im sure you know, just has this crappy wheep hole that I can see making a mess @ high speeds.

That is truly a thing of beauty!!!! .... is the breather port designed to take the factory press-in brass tube & filter?

Swapped out the very tattered turbo blanket with an updated version and got a new IWG that has a pivot to it. Turbo smart Gen V adds a pivot joint. I think it builds boost better now, the angle the old IWG rod had was scoring the brass seal on the bottom and seemed to be an issue. Actuation is much better now as well.

I bet you can still see V O L V O nice and clear from the distance too

Several different sizes available for this model, but I'm sure Interstate can cross reference your current battery. It's worth noting you will need VIDA to reset the battery monitor, otherwise the low battery message will remain on.

Finally all back together. The car itself is far from pretty but I’m happy with how it’s going under the hood.

2014 XC90 - 71k miles - 1 owner and dealer maintained and in great shape - every single option possible (sovereign hide leather in CHESTNUT, 19's, wood wheel, blah blah) Selling our 2013 GLI and this is taking over for my wife. I wanted a 17+ XC90 R-Design T5 but needed something I wouldnt have a monthly payment with for now

I read it three times and I still have on idea what you're trying to say.

What turbo for 400+? I currently have a hybrid td04hl-23t but it gets up late and swells at high speed.

WWW.TASCAPARTS.COM 850 R FRONT BUMPERS ARE AVAILABLE NEW FOR LESS THAN $200.00. ONLY THE LOWER HALF NOT THE DARK GREY UPPER. THOSE HAVE BEEN OUT OF PRODUCTION FOR YEARS. THERE IS NOW ONLY ONE STYLE AVAILABLE AND IT IS THE "R" WITH THE CORRECT ROUND FOG LAMP . REAR IS ALSO AVAILABLE SEDAN OR WAGON. THIS BUMPER IS ONE PIECE, CAN'T SEPARATE. LATER V70R FRONT AND REAR BUMPERS ARE ALSO AVAILABLE. NOT ALL COLORS ARE AVAILABLE BUT YOU CAN ALWAYS BUY A WHITE ONE AND HAVE IT PAINTED. IF YOU HAVE NEVER CHECKED TASCA BEFORE, YOU'RE IN FOR A TREAT. TONS O STUFF IS STILL AVAILABLE. EVEN SOME OF THE SHITTY INTERIOR PARTS.