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Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/03/2020 in Posts

  1. 5 points
  2. 4 points
    Getting groceries. Finally lowered it.
  3. 3 points
    Hello guuuuuuuuuuuuys ! I'm baaaaaaaaaaaack ! :) Sorry for the long absence, for the 4 years me and a friend of mine had put together up a small VOLVO repair shop here in Romania, which in time grew bigger and bigger (we now have 8 lifts). Unfortunately I had to leave from the business and from the tuning scene as a little girl appeared in our lives :) But she's 2 years now and I'm starting to have more free time, and I'm getting back to my old love, my T5 S70. 3 years ago a tree fell over the top and bent it like hell. She's been parked in the same place and never moved since :( It's in a repair shop now for making her straight again, and I'll be off installing the new GT3071 that's been waiting for 4 years on the shelf. Hope you're all well and staying safe from the new COVID. Glad to be back !
  4. 3 points
    Car is running really well in locked 4WD mode
  5. 3 points
    I think the issue has been resolved. Right after converting to full time 4WD I think I was hitting oil pressure cut which was making it seem like I was hitting limiter so i was never getting complete pulls. The car absolutely pulls like an animal now in 2nd with it locked 4WD. 1st still spins but 2nd is insane. I still think the viscous coupler was monkeyed as it doesn't slam limiter in 2nd now. Just pulls with full traction. Next Ill try the known working VC once it arrives.
  6. 2 points
    We’re making our biggest sale of the year even bigger, and hopefully that helps out some of our friends here on Volvospeed with getting your Vo's in tip-top shape before the winter. 2020 has been a bit of a letdown, so we made sure our annual Cyber Week sale wouldn't be. It typically kicks off the Thursday before Black Friday, extending through Cyber Monday, but we’ve decided to change things up and give you the entire month of November to save on your parts. Enjoy a three-week head start when you shop at FCP Euro. You’ll save $10 off orders of $125 or more, $20 off $250+, and $40 off $500+ when you use the code “CYBERMONTH” at checkout! coupons.fcpeuro.com is the link to find new deals all month long, so definitely check it out. As always, feel free to reach out if you have any questions. The Team at FCP Euro -- FCP Euro
  7. 2 points
    it's possible, but no guarantees.
  8. 2 points
    I trimmed my bump stops today. It has a solid 1" now. I might raise up the rear a tiny more. I also soften up my dampening a ton. Now I am 8 clicks from softest. The car rides normal again. It was horrible with maxed dampening. I need to start putting together a stainless exhaust system. The open 3.5" down pipe sucks and you can't hear yourself think. Definitely going to use a Borla XR-1 again and probably add a resonator too like a vibrant bottle style. Might have a TIG welder coming in the mail soon so this will be a good first TIG project.
  9. 2 points
    I guess this technically fits here since we did purchase him lol. Picked up our 8wk old 5.5lb Corgi on the way back from Savannah Sunday. VS, meet Flapjack
  10. 2 points
    I just got the 850 back Saturday, drove it back to Austin. Tune needs some work but its got a new engine, dash, PDR, headliner, paint job, tires, starter, fuel pump, and master slave cylinder for the M56.
  11. 1 point
    I think we did yes! My friend Matt was a little aghast at my choice to keep that from a wagon he was parting out, but I knew it would work out at some point. Next time I will drain it out and refill no doubt, I think I did it this way to start as a way to check how much, if any, was continuing to leak out of the passenger side axle. Looked at the special tool and thought Maybe a 24mm box wrench could be heated and bent to the right shape for that. Probably not. And thank you! This was for sure the right material for the job and I think it's probably more form fitting then an oem one at this point. Can't bring myself to do a hood vent like some of us....
  12. 1 point
    So after taking apart the side mount to get to the official fill plug I see the gearbox had only lost a small amount of fluid, the level was still at the axle line meaning there wasn't a constant leak. Topped it up to be sure. Killed what looks like some kind of metal beast (p2 exhaust tunnel heat shielding) to make a new cover for the Japanifold Flawless! Needed the extra later on there as when I was using the torch to clean off some foam padding I melted through this layer. Looks kind of like it should be here? Additionally to feel like I'm preventing future child goo from getting inside the car (fat chance I know) I picked up a new rear seat setup. $27 for everything in this picture. Among that is also some totally unfaded vents. I was another season away from buying a new set of 3 just because. Japanifold sound update as well - Loving it. Will post a sound video soon.
  13. 1 point
    You could trim the exhaust housing on the turbo to match it. The spacer does it, but you could do it on the housing itself. I never did it with mine though. Your back pressure is going to be more about the A/R of the exhaust housing on the turbo than the exhaust manifold port.
  14. 1 point
    Finished installing a new header on the Spider. Changed out the starter in the Volvo. Only got 4 years out of the $65 starter off Amazon. New Bosch one installed now.
  15. 1 point
    Stock harness is #9438738. IPD has it for $26.75 right now. Probably worth shopping around a bit.
  16. 1 point
  17. 1 point
    FYI: I did a little write-up on how to figure out those formulas; converting volts to bit can be confusing for sure. www.volvospeed.com/vs_forum/topic/159506-tuners-rejoice-free-tuning-for-m44/?do=findComment&comment=2431917
  18. 1 point
    I got his number, I reached out to him for you.
  19. 1 point
    it was REID. I'll check with some people that still talk to him.
  20. 1 point
    Welcome back Midnight Caller! I wish you the best of luck with the Volvo. GT3071 will be awesome! I run a GTX3076 and is wonderful! // Turboforslund
  21. 1 point
    Welcome back! You've got a lot of catching up to do 😁
  22. 1 point
    Apparently this is a pretty common failure, but this is first time I've seen it. The center toggle switch on my interior dome light exploded and now dome lights don't work at all. This is the switch on interior ceiling just back from the interior mirror and ahead of the sunroof. Went searching for new switch but too expensive! I think this is P/N: 9483142 https://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/9871/Dome-Light-9178823/ Used ones are long shot at this point since they're probably broken (or close to it) now too. Pulled up the schematic to see what I could do. This is a MODE switch; per the owner's manual, it has 3 modes: Interior dome lights always off (center position) Interior dome lights always on Interior dome lights switched via door switches Since the only mode I've ever used is mode 3, I decided to attempt to hard-wire it for that mode. Mode 1 is useful if you're going to have the doors open for an extended period of time, but I figured I can always disconnect the switch if that need arises. Pulling the interior dome light switch is simple, but watch Robert's video if you need refresher: https://youtu.be/KFz7rvEIFXY?t=418 After staring at the schematic for awhile, figured out how to hard wire mode 3: Tie switch pin 2 to 3 Tie switch pin 5 to 7 I did this by soldering jumpers onto the pin buses; you'll need to scrape off the anti-corrosion coating in a small spot to get to the copper underneath for solder to stick. With the jumpers installed, it works great! Note this maintains the Delayed Courtesy Light function when you shut the doors. I.e. the dome lights stay on for about 20-30 seconds after you shut all the doors, and then fade to off. They will go out sooner if you key to RUN position. Hope this helps someone. Let me know if you need more pics.
  23. 1 point
    i am tempted to pay someone to do these - i have the tool too new in box lol i just dont want to do it haha i hope you have a good build season - sorry you are going thru all that shit
  24. 1 point
    Well, this has gone about as well as the rest of 2020.. Between Covid, work situations, and a divorce that God willing will be final soon, this project has kind of been on the back burner. Hoping to have it all back together and better than ever by spring. Here's to build season! 🍻 This was the result of several evenings work. If you know, then you know.. 🤣 What a pain!
  25. 1 point
    I think Joe or someone made a how to on it. I think it was just a resistor.
  26. 1 point
    I still go back and watch videos of the XR from time to time. Those runs you did in *Mexico* do the trick every time. Love the updates Matt, it's awesome seeing it all come together.
  27. 1 point
    Nice!!! It is so much fun running a T5 motor to 8,5- 9K rpm - nothing beats the sound it makes, and with the AWD it just goes as you have found
  28. 1 point
    Thing sounds angry, glad it’s hookin’ up! Turn it up and hold on for dear life! 😂
  29. 1 point
    Looks fantastic! How did you get around the SRS light for the steering wheel?
  30. 1 point
    Beep beep Biden train coming through. How's it feel now Gary?
  31. 1 point
    Wouldn't hurt to go a tad higher for now. you can always lower it progressively if the hookup issue is resolved. I had dual Magnaflow mufflers and a Magnaflow resonator, it was still very loud and the drone was still bad. Is the Borla a quieter muffler? I used a Stainless Works Turbo muffler on my K24 swap, much quieter than Magnaflow - also added a S40T resonator Exhaust is a good way to practice TIG. Use all SS tubing, is much easier to weld, keep the amps low, & you barely need filler rod
  32. 1 point
    Wait for Justin to see that. He loves some weights.
  33. 1 point
    Wasnt sure if you ment Netherlands Antilles Guilder since USD thats a quarter of what the whole car is worth lol.
  34. 1 point
    I found a way to repair the common steering angle sensor or clockspring error which arises as a dash warning "Anti-skid temporarily off" or "Anti-skid temporarily disabled" and want to share it to hopefully help other avoid the $900 dealer charge. Tools needed: VIDA/DICE, standard socket and screwdriver kit, compressed air, whiteout/silver pen, patience and decent hands Note: actions in this repair if done incorrectly may damage your SAS! Follow at your own risk. Pictures are showing up in reverse order to my attachments, so references may be reversed in the text below. Error codes fixed: BCM-U042864 Invalid Data Received From Steering Angle Sensor Module - Algorithm Based Failures - Signal plausibility failure SAS-C009404 Steering Angle Sensor Analog / Digital Sensor - System Internal Failures Apparently this error is very common, and often requires a trip to the dealer who will replace your clockspring assembly which includes the airbag wire coil which looks like a clock spring (commutators not reliable enough) and the steering angle sensor assembly, which attaches to the clockspring with 3 screws. They are sold as a kit together because they must be rotationally aligned and limited by the number of turns they can handle without damage. The clocksping has a handy indicator built into it where you can see a yellow tab through a window when it's centered (and at/near its extremes). The dash error of "Anti-skid temporarily off" would arise intermittently at first for my '08 XC90, and eventually stayed on. The anti-skid BCM computer utilizes the steering wheel position to assess expected travel between wheels and calculate unwanted slippage under acceleration and deceleration conditions, modulating the brakes as needed. If it doesn't receive a reliable steering angle sensor signal, it will disable itself for the drive. In the garage, VIDA showed normal data for the SAS angle, direction, velocity, and BCM steering angle and yaw and lateral accelerometer signals at rest (first attached image). However, during a drive, VIDA showed that the steering angle signal from the SAS and BCM locked up, froze at large left turn steering positions (over 300 degrees, attached image 2). This signaled that the SAS controller was receiving uninterpretable signals from the SAS at large left wheel positions, and it was giving up, throwing the error. I had read that the SAS units utilize optical encoders, and suspected that when they 'go bad' it's really just some dust in the optical path, but couldn't yet see how that would occur only with large steering wheel rotations, so commence disassembly. 1) There are videos on youtube which describe in detail how to take out your clocksping, so I'll skip that here. It's not a hard job. Make sure you mark your steering wheel position relative to the splined post after removing the 18mm bolt and before removing the wheel. 2) Ensure that the clockspring is centered, and unscrew the 3 screws holding it on the steering column. From now on your job is to mark and remember the orientation of how these pieces go together. Flip it over and mark with whiteout the rotational position relative to the housing (3rd image, 2 screws already removed from center). Vacuum the dust and dirt from all around it. 3) Unscrew the 3 screws holding the SAS to the clockspring on the back, and after removing the SAS, immediately mark on the back of the clockspring its rotational position (4th attached image). Set the clockspring assembly aside. 4) Set the marked SAS on a table and remove the 3 inner screws which hold the front and back coupling rings in place. MAINTAIN the position of the back coupling ring! Carefully lift the front coupling ring off and mark with whiteout the relative position of the back coupling ring to the inner encoder wheel (attached image 5). The back coupling ring has 3 posts which protrude through alignment holes in the encoder wheel. !! If you allow the back coupling ring to fall off, the encoder wheel will become loose in the enclosure. In this state, if it is lifted and rotated it can skip teeth and loose its position relative to a linear encoder which is coupled with a gear. This can be bad news and prolong your repair as you try to find the correct position again. 5) With the front coupling ring off, you can now carefully pop up the clips holding the cover on, exposing the encoder electronics underneath. Be clean! this is static and dust sensitive instrumentation! ( attached image 6) The design of the encoder is now clear. There is a rotary optical encoder portion with diodes and sensors attached to the PCB (white silkscreened solder joints), and a linear 'raster' optical encoder portion which is the part that protrudes. The rotary encoder can probably encode 360 degrees of travel with a 1.5 degree resolution, and the coupled linear encoder then encodes which rotation position the assembly is in with a wider rotational range but lower resolution. It should be approximately in the center of travel. The rotary and linear encoder results need to be roughly in agreement, or the plausibility error will be thrown. 6) You can now get your compressed air can and blow out the area of the optical rotary encoder and down the slit of the linear encoder. I suspect that my error was due to dust blocking a beam in the linear encoder area, resulting in incorrect data readout. 7) You can now re-assemble the entire assembly, clear codes, and test. Note: in my case, I purposefully rotated the rotary encoder wheel about a half turn while keeping it disengaged from the linear encoder drive gear. When I went to test in the car, immediately invalid data error was thrown and the VIDA SAS angle readout was locked at 0. This was corrected via a few trial and error gear relative adjustment attempts, keeping the wheel and airbag off to speed the process which of course threw more codes to be cleared on final assembly. It's possible this relative adjustment process also helped eliminate the error code, if for some reason the linear encoder had become slightly misaligned through use. It turns out there is a specific tool being sold which help savvy techs ensure the SAS is properly aligned!: https://www.ebay.com/itm/153949744645?ul_noapp=true This would no doubt save a significant number of unnecessary clockspring assembly replacements. I am not associated with the seller. After this cleaning repair, codes no longer arise through turning the steering wheel lock to lock (attached photo 7). I hope this helps some, and at least highlights ways that VIDA can help to identify which component is at fault via live-drive data plotting of SAS angle, yaw and acceleration sensor read-outs. Calibration of the BCM with a new clockspring or SAS or yaw sensor can be performed with VIDA after this work by opening BCM telemetry, click the advanced tab, open BCM calibration, and then click the image of the controller box per instructions.
  35. 1 point
    T-5R's just turned 25 this year, so I got it registered as an antique in my state Pennsylvania. No inspection or emissions and its a permanent registration. No one has hassled me yet. I drove by a couple police, they saw the antique plate, my slipstream racing numbers on the windows and minded their own business. I drive it on the weekends and sometimes at night its not out enough for anyone to question it (as your technically only allowed out once a week)... other than its fully street legal, insured and everything! You need classic insurance which is expensive. I'm paying $800 a year right now for just the T-5R. Gotta pay to play the loopholes. Registration wasn't cheap either especially not the vanity plate (which I haven't showed yet) but its permanent and if it allows me to still play on the street legally im OK.
  36. 1 point
    Car is running AWD... The viscous coupler is holding me back. Either its worn out or I didn't understand from the get go how it was going to function during a launch / roll. It take some time to wind up and I really don't like that. I want torque to all wheels instantly (even if that means spinning all 4). Going to be locking the drivetrain 50/50 for now until I can design an adapter to use a Gen3 haldex clutch. I am well aware of the pros and cons of 50/50 but its not a concern for this car.
  37. 1 point
    I wouldn't want to be friends with anyone that doesn't love puppies.
  38. 1 point
    That’s awesome, you’ve gotta be excited to have it back! How long was it in the shop?
  39. 1 point
    damn thats a ton of work - aaron do it? Looks good! What turbo?
  40. 1 point
    Shows the ever maturing crowd of VS picking up fine looking newer cars!
  41. 1 point
  42. 1 point
    I maintain that the stock 901 system with paper speakers and all rivals most setups on these cars. It truly is a fantastic sounding system.
  43. 1 point
    Pew Pew stuff Cheaper to buy a new .556 upper right now than it is to buy enough .300 aac to have a decent couple hours at the range for myself and the misses. Dam hippies bought up all the ammo and guns because of Corona!
  44. 1 point
    Picked up a pair of Thiel CS.5's.
  45. 1 point
    At this rate though, is it wrong to picture Trump as the next President as well? I just don't see a good candidate from anywhere else.
  46. 1 point
    Last weekend while picking up some oil...
  47. 1 point
    I was going to say the cabinets are nice but the garage is way too clean.
  48. 1 point
    Nice garage cabinets, but move that damn tesla so we can see better..
  49. -3 points
    Guys I found many cool video on youtube. For streaming and watching youtube online I use https://veepn.com/ because in my place youtube was banned. I am in China now where many social and video platforms were forbidden.