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Showing content with the highest reputation since 05/18/2009 in all areas

  1. 55 points
    Attention: The first 30 or so pages of this thread are outdated. Please refer to the M4.4 Wikia article where all the relevant information is currently being collated. Before asking any questions please read from at least page 30 on. I know there is a lot of information in this thread, but I can almost guarantee any question you ask has already been answered! One of the things lacking in the Volvo community is easy tune-ability for cheap. So, for the past month or so I've been working on tuning M4.4 for free. Work has been done in the past with MotronicSuite, however development stopped halfway leaving a mostly unusable product. I have created an .xdf definition file for TunerPro with the most important map and scalar locations. It is not finished, but should be a good starting point for anyone willing to experiment. If we can get a good base of experimenters we can figure out the most effective tuning methodologies and how the maps play together. Together we can make freeware tuning a reality! So far I've been successful in modifying a S70T5-M .bin file for green injectors, increasing the requested load, disabling the rear O2 checks and making the timing more aggressive. I'm still working on how to disable the SAS checks. I do not have A/C so I have not worked on making the A/C commands play with an originally equipped M4.3 car. Therefore flashing a M4.4 tune on your M4.3 could ruin your A/C! I'm not exactly sure what happens to the A/C when a M4.4 ECU is used; if anyone can enlighten me I can look in solving the problem. Alright, now how to flash your M4.4 ECU. You will need TunerPro, the .xdf definition and an appropriate .bin file (all linked at the bottom). The .bin file is the contents of the flash chip from an ECU. It contains the code that tells the ECU how to interpret sensors and run the engine. It contains assembly language instructions along with look up maps and scalars. The .xdf is a TunerPro specific file that contains the addresses of the maps and scalars. Open the .bin and .xdf file in TunerPro and you will see the items that you can modify. A word of caution, modifying some of these values can cause catastrophic engine failure. Don't modify something unless you have the appropriate monitoring ability (Wideband, EGT, etc). It is possible to flash the ECU in the car using a cheap VAG-COM cable. However, in order to flash the ECU you must pull pin B8 on the ECU to battery voltage. Having pin B8 at battery voltage when the ECU is turned on causes the ECU to enter bootloader mode, this allows the contents of the flash chip to be erased and written to. The switch on top of ARD’s ECU’s enables bootloader mode. To do it yourself you can open the ECU box and wire a switch in between pin B8 and A12(ignition power). Or you could just solder a long wire to pin B8 and run it to the positive post on your battery. Flashing M4.4 requires fairly high voltage (13.5ish) so your battery must be fully charged and healthy to flash! My battery is old and I do not have a very powerful battery charger so I flash on my desk. I use a 15 volt power supply and connect the VAG-COM cable and power connections using jumper wires. I have simplified the whole process quite a bit, if you want more information please just ask. If anyone is interested in adding additional items to the .xdf I can provide a DAMOS file for reference. Updated 3/10/13 10:44PM : TunerPro .xdf for non-immo bins Checksum Plug-in ECU Flasher Plug-in Manual .bin Auto .bin Forgot to mention, there are a few maps labeled NTBD. There is a problem with these maps, most just don't have the axis internally linked.
  2. 35 points
    Faultywarrior - PERMA-BANNED
  3. 34 points
    Finally got the dual exhaust done.
  4. 29 points
    News today: My twin exaust in place and after listen someone of you, I modified rear spoiler .
  5. 26 points
    In the wake of recent media events, I wanted to take a second to wish you all a happy holiday. In addition, know this time of year brings an increased level of stress and depression in some individuals. While the easy thing to do is shrug it off, if you know people like this personally you should take a moment to reach out. At the end of the day, no one person can save the world, but each individual has the potential to change another persons life. I am grateful to have anyone here who is reading this, and am personally available if anyone just needs to talk. Hope you all have a safe holiday, and try not to get wrapped up in the media BS which will just drag you down.
  6. 26 points
    Swapped my mom cars for the day. Picked up a set of Neptunes in Alabama. The father and son both drove red on black 855R's.
  7. 24 points
  8. 23 points
    REMEMBER.... ANY TAMPERING WITH FACTORY EMISSIONS SYSTEMS IS A VIOLATION OF FEDERAL AND STATE LAWS. PERFORM THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK There have been couple of threads lately http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.php/topic/132158-sas-delete/page__hl__sas+delete and http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.php/topic/139442-another-sas-delete-using-luckys-idea/ that have discussed ways to delete the SAS (air pump). I suggest you read them for background. This will be strictly a write up of 2 ways to accomplish this. This has been a joint effort with Volvospeed members IPD-Lucky and Flaco both contributing to this mod and obviously they both deserve a lot of the credit. It appears that a diode (Radio Shack #1N4003) connected between pins A32 and A37 of the ECU will cause the ECU to "think" that the airpump system is fully operational. The only parts of the airpump system you need to LEAVE installed are the airpump relay and the solenoid valve. They both need to have there connectors connected. Everything else can be removed. Here is a picture of the scematic showing what we are doing, notice the direction of the diode, that is important.... The mod can been done one of two ways. Either inside the ECU or in the harness directly below the ECU. To do the wiring IN THE HARNESS UNDER THE ECU, first you need to prepare the diode (radio shack #1N4003). I soldered it to a short section of wire.... Then attach a section of heat shrink to protect it and mark the direction that the current flows.... .... Then remove the ECU and the plastic housing.... Then you can access the harness and install the diode between A32 (GN-SB wire) and A37 (BL-P wire). DO NOT cut either of the wires. You can install the diode with a Scotch-Lock or the way I did it was to just slice away some of the insulation from the wire and solder the diode to it. Then I taped up the soldered connection. Just make sure the diode is pointing in the right direction.... Put it back together and that's it. I like doing it this way so the mod stays with the car, even if you swap ECU's. I would get a little nervous opening up a stage 3 IPD ECU that I just bought, to do it inside. Wouldn't want to chance screwing that up! To do the wiring INSIDE THE ECU, first remove the ECU and open it up. Bend the 4 little tabs up. Then swing the hold down lever around and out of the way. You may need to pry it up slightly to do this.... Once you're inside it's very simple, just find A32 and A37 and solder the diode in place. Again make sure the diode is pointing in the right direction.... Secure the cover and re-install the ECU in the car. That's it! I have one car with the wiring done under the ECU and one car with it done inside the ECU. They have only been done for a short time so I guess we'll say it's experimental at this point. The mod in this thread http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.php/topic/139442-another-sas-delete-using-luckys-idea/ was on my car for well over a month with no CEL. So it can also be done that way.
  9. 23 points
    :ph34r: :ph34r: :ph34r: :ph34r: :ph34r: :ph34r: :ph34r: :ph34r: :ph34r: :ph34r: :ph34r: :ph34r: :ph34r: :ph34r: :ph34r: had the car entirely finished on saturday, got this on sunday How it sat last week!
  10. 23 points
    Timing adjusted. Car started after a quick bath. Still lots to do but hearing the engine run gave me wings. Untitled by Exim-Cars, on Flickr
  11. 23 points
  12. 23 points
    I do this about once a year so the OGs have seen this, but for the new people I pose something to think about: Think back to when you were a young kid. What did you want to be when you grew up? It was probably something you may consider unreasonable now. A firefighters, astronaut, super hero, princess whatever. The title is not important, but what is important is the reasons why. At the end of the day it was probably the virtues. Loyalty, bravery, responsibility, whatever those traits were think about them. Now think about the way you are living your life now? Would the 7 year old version of you be happy with who you are? I think very few of us could truthfully answer yes. For those who say no, what was the issue? Do you not find those desirable traits anymore, or is it an issue of responsibility or social dogmas? Maybe the world just doesn't feel as shiny and new to you anymore. Whatever the case is, why sit back and justify falling short on a childhood dream? So few dreams can be realized why not take the easy ones. No one says you cannot have the traits of a super hero and the job title of loan officer, or the responsibility and glamor of a princess and the title of service manager. With so many things apparently wrong in the world around us, why not take a look at the world within us and expand on what we can. Its too easy on a day to day basis to make excuses. All of us have a nagging regret in the back of our mind. Maybe something we didn't do or someone we screwed over but justified it and say it was so long ago it doesn't matter anymore. Maybe it doesn't matter, but fixing yourself can be the start of fixing everything around. Take it for what you will guys,
  13. 21 points
    The Little Red Wagon was chosen to be one of ten Forum Vehicles in the this year's Portland International Auto Show next weekend. Dropped the car off at the Convention Center this afternoon. First time driving on carpet, into a building and through double doors. Instagram pic. (to follow: @thelittleredwagon) The gf was along for the setup and took some more pics. (cellphone pics are cellphone pics) I will say, surrendering my keys and leaving it in a room full of people was a little odd.
  14. 21 points
    Two Turtles - 30 days for trying to hit on me. Edit - Perm-banned
  15. 20 points
    While Frankensteining a junkyard dash and my old one I decided to fix some of the common problems the 850 interior has. I removed all of the better upholstered parts to the grey vinyl to black. All of the plastic is extremely fragile. (I also reinforced the typical mounts with metal rivetted and epoxied into place) Using parts of the junked dash I cut out side caps to cover the common de-laminated vinyl on the sides of the dash. once you peel the old vinyl off of theses caps you are left with a rough surface that can then be sanded and painted with SEM Landau Black to create an OEM looking piece for both sides. I added hex screws to complete the look but just attaching them with epoxy or 3M tape should be sufficient. If you leave a lip on the front edge of theses pieces they fit nicely between the dash and door weatherstripping. The next issue is the top plastic portion of the dash that cracks from the sun or trying to remove the dash pad. Even the best dashboard I could find in the junkyard had some cracks, and even if you manage to find a perfect one its only a matter of time until it breaks. I created a template of this portion and a Rhino/CAD file for laser-cutting. I can upload the file if someone else wants to attempt to do this, but there is one curve I would probably tweak If I were to do this again. I was advised against making this part from PVC and chose lexan. It maintains all of the defrost holes, VIN and climate sensor windows, and even an R logo for posing. Again this was painted with SEM Landau Black and then attached to the dash with plastic weld epoxy. Make sure to glue every little portion! There were a couple small spots I missed and If I left the car out in the sun the lexan started to warp upwards in these spots. I snuck in some plastic weld after and it has been fine since, Its just much easier to do right the first time around. The portion that flares up near the windshield was covered in an adhesive black weatherstripping from Home Depot. The last part involves the shifter boot for an M56 swap. Initially I combined a leather MOMO Endurance boot with the stock boot hidden underneath it, but it never looked perfect and was coming undone. I then decided to go a different route and separated the rubber bellows out from the OEM manual boot and cut out a black PVC sheet to hold the bellows down. The plastic "clip" thing originally between the volvo boot and knob was separated and reinstalled on the shifter rod under the rubber bellows to hold it in place up top. After conditioning the rubber it cleaned up nicely and looks pretty stock. For the knob I used a MOMO automatico and removed the button and replaced it with a shaved down shift pattern from a M56 Volvo knob. Combined with some heavy washers under the pattern cap and Momo's black endurance adapter, It makes a very nice weighted shift knob. This was version 1.0: (You can see the black dash panels here) Sorry for the awful pictures, and will try to post better ones when I get a chance.
  16. 20 points
  17. 20 points
    So this happened today...
  18. 20 points
  19. 19 points
    not mine But I took a pic
  20. 19 points
    longbeach. iboost 24 hrs. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Nobody likes mike. probably due to the fact he is a giant douche.
  21. 18 points
  22. 17 points
  23. 17 points
    DSC_5989.jpg by KeysarPhoto, on Flickr DSC_6004.jpg by KeysarPhoto, on Flickr
  24. 16 points
    Quite possibly the best carwash in the world.
  25. 16 points