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Showing content with the highest reputation since 05/18/2009 in all areas

  1. 56 points
    Attention: The first 30 or so pages of this thread are outdated. Please refer to the M4.4 Wikia article where all the relevant information is currently being collated. Before asking any questions please read from at least page 30 on. I know there is a lot of information in this thread, but I can almost guarantee any question you ask has already been answered! One of the things lacking in the Volvo community is easy tune-ability for cheap. So, for the past month or so I've been working on tuning M4.4 for free. Work has been done in the past with MotronicSuite, however development stopped halfway leaving a mostly unusable product. I have created an .xdf definition file for TunerPro with the most important map and scalar locations. It is not finished, but should be a good starting point for anyone willing to experiment. If we can get a good base of experimenters we can figure out the most effective tuning methodologies and how the maps play together. Together we can make freeware tuning a reality! So far I've been successful in modifying a S70T5-M .bin file for green injectors, increasing the requested load, disabling the rear O2 checks and making the timing more aggressive. I'm still working on how to disable the SAS checks. I do not have A/C so I have not worked on making the A/C commands play with an originally equipped M4.3 car. Therefore flashing a M4.4 tune on your M4.3 could ruin your A/C! I'm not exactly sure what happens to the A/C when a M4.4 ECU is used; if anyone can enlighten me I can look in solving the problem. Alright, now how to flash your M4.4 ECU. You will need TunerPro, the .xdf definition and an appropriate .bin file (all linked at the bottom). The .bin file is the contents of the flash chip from an ECU. It contains the code that tells the ECU how to interpret sensors and run the engine. It contains assembly language instructions along with look up maps and scalars. The .xdf is a TunerPro specific file that contains the addresses of the maps and scalars. Open the .bin and .xdf file in TunerPro and you will see the items that you can modify. A word of caution, modifying some of these values can cause catastrophic engine failure. Don't modify something unless you have the appropriate monitoring ability (Wideband, EGT, etc). It is possible to flash the ECU in the car using a cheap VAG-COM cable. However, in order to flash the ECU you must pull pin B8 on the ECU to battery voltage. Having pin B8 at battery voltage when the ECU is turned on causes the ECU to enter bootloader mode, this allows the contents of the flash chip to be erased and written to. The switch on top of ARD’s ECU’s enables bootloader mode. To do it yourself you can open the ECU box and wire a switch in between pin B8 and A12(ignition power). Or you could just solder a long wire to pin B8 and run it to the positive post on your battery. Flashing M4.4 requires fairly high voltage (13.5ish) so your battery must be fully charged and healthy to flash! My battery is old and I do not have a very powerful battery charger so I flash on my desk. I use a 15 volt power supply and connect the VAG-COM cable and power connections using jumper wires. I have simplified the whole process quite a bit, if you want more information please just ask. If anyone is interested in adding additional items to the .xdf I can provide a DAMOS file for reference. Updated 3/10/13 10:44PM : TunerPro .xdf for non-immo bins Checksum Plug-in ECU Flasher Plug-in Manual .bin Auto .bin Forgot to mention, there are a few maps labeled NTBD. There is a problem with these maps, most just don't have the axis internally linked.
  2. 35 points
    Faultywarrior - PERMA-BANNED
  3. 34 points
    Finally got the dual exhaust done.
  4. 29 points
    News today: My twin exaust in place and after listen someone of you, I modified rear spoiler .
  5. 26 points
    In the wake of recent media events, I wanted to take a second to wish you all a happy holiday. In addition, know this time of year brings an increased level of stress and depression in some individuals. While the easy thing to do is shrug it off, if you know people like this personally you should take a moment to reach out. At the end of the day, no one person can save the world, but each individual has the potential to change another persons life. I am grateful to have anyone here who is reading this, and am personally available if anyone just needs to talk. Hope you all have a safe holiday, and try not to get wrapped up in the media BS which will just drag you down.
  6. 26 points
    Swapped my mom cars for the day. Picked up a set of Neptunes in Alabama. The father and son both drove red on black 855R's.
  7. 24 points
  8. 23 points
    REMEMBER.... ANY TAMPERING WITH FACTORY EMISSIONS SYSTEMS IS A VIOLATION OF FEDERAL AND STATE LAWS. PERFORM THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK There have been couple of threads lately http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.php/topic/132158-sas-delete/page__hl__sas+delete and http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.php/topic/139442-another-sas-delete-using-luckys-idea/ that have discussed ways to delete the SAS (air pump). I suggest you read them for background. This will be strictly a write up of 2 ways to accomplish this. This has been a joint effort with Volvospeed members IPD-Lucky and Flaco both contributing to this mod and obviously they both deserve a lot of the credit. It appears that a diode (Radio Shack #1N4003) connected between pins A32 and A37 of the ECU will cause the ECU to "think" that the airpump system is fully operational. The only parts of the airpump system you need to LEAVE installed are the airpump relay and the solenoid valve. They both need to have there connectors connected. Everything else can be removed. Here is a picture of the scematic showing what we are doing, notice the direction of the diode, that is important.... The mod can been done one of two ways. Either inside the ECU or in the harness directly below the ECU. To do the wiring IN THE HARNESS UNDER THE ECU, first you need to prepare the diode (radio shack #1N4003). I soldered it to a short section of wire.... Then attach a section of heat shrink to protect it and mark the direction that the current flows.... .... Then remove the ECU and the plastic housing.... Then you can access the harness and install the diode between A32 (GN-SB wire) and A37 (BL-P wire). DO NOT cut either of the wires. You can install the diode with a Scotch-Lock or the way I did it was to just slice away some of the insulation from the wire and solder the diode to it. Then I taped up the soldered connection. Just make sure the diode is pointing in the right direction.... Put it back together and that's it. I like doing it this way so the mod stays with the car, even if you swap ECU's. I would get a little nervous opening up a stage 3 IPD ECU that I just bought, to do it inside. Wouldn't want to chance screwing that up! To do the wiring INSIDE THE ECU, first remove the ECU and open it up. Bend the 4 little tabs up. Then swing the hold down lever around and out of the way. You may need to pry it up slightly to do this.... Once you're inside it's very simple, just find A32 and A37 and solder the diode in place. Again make sure the diode is pointing in the right direction.... Secure the cover and re-install the ECU in the car. That's it! I have one car with the wiring done under the ECU and one car with it done inside the ECU. They have only been done for a short time so I guess we'll say it's experimental at this point. The mod in this thread http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.php/topic/139442-another-sas-delete-using-luckys-idea/ was on my car for well over a month with no CEL. So it can also be done that way.
  9. 23 points
    :ph34r: :ph34r: :ph34r: :ph34r: :ph34r: :ph34r: :ph34r: :ph34r: :ph34r: :ph34r: :ph34r: :ph34r: :ph34r: :ph34r: :ph34r: had the car entirely finished on saturday, got this on sunday How it sat last week!
  10. 23 points
    Timing adjusted. Car started after a quick bath. Still lots to do but hearing the engine run gave me wings. Untitled by Exim-Cars, on Flickr
  11. 23 points
  12. 23 points
    I do this about once a year so the OGs have seen this, but for the new people I pose something to think about: Think back to when you were a young kid. What did you want to be when you grew up? It was probably something you may consider unreasonable now. A firefighters, astronaut, super hero, princess whatever. The title is not important, but what is important is the reasons why. At the end of the day it was probably the virtues. Loyalty, bravery, responsibility, whatever those traits were think about them. Now think about the way you are living your life now? Would the 7 year old version of you be happy with who you are? I think very few of us could truthfully answer yes. For those who say no, what was the issue? Do you not find those desirable traits anymore, or is it an issue of responsibility or social dogmas? Maybe the world just doesn't feel as shiny and new to you anymore. Whatever the case is, why sit back and justify falling short on a childhood dream? So few dreams can be realized why not take the easy ones. No one says you cannot have the traits of a super hero and the job title of loan officer, or the responsibility and glamor of a princess and the title of service manager. With so many things apparently wrong in the world around us, why not take a look at the world within us and expand on what we can. Its too easy on a day to day basis to make excuses. All of us have a nagging regret in the back of our mind. Maybe something we didn't do or someone we screwed over but justified it and say it was so long ago it doesn't matter anymore. Maybe it doesn't matter, but fixing yourself can be the start of fixing everything around. Take it for what you will guys,
  13. 22 points
    This is the C30 I bought to replace the XR back in September. 91K, M66. Had to drive almost 5 hrs out into PA to get it. Basic handling mods are lowered (Eibach ProSport), stiffer rear sway (CorkSport/ Mazdaspeed3), modified front camber with readily available kit from Whiteline. Grille was plastic-dipped. Wheels were meant for the XR. Advanti Hybris 18x8, ET45 w/235/40x18 Kumho Cosmetics - sill decals R-Design rear spoiler - only available plain so I had to prime / paint / this CEIKA large six pot 330mm rotors came off the XR straighten back plates revised brackets CEIKA Rears will go on, once I get the modified hardware for the eBrake hydraulics. Have to flip the balance tubes, since the R caliper is now L, and vice-versa Some broken shit - didn't see it at the used car dealer - they paid for the parts, however. RedTail SS Exhaust tips intended for the XR and R Design lower lip That was going to be about the extent of it, for the time being. Then... someone on C30Crew stripped all the Elevate goodies off their 2012 to trade it in..... deal was too good to pass up. Also Porche 70mm throttle body. I had it machined down to better fit the Elevate intake hose Air filter +piping, Turbo outlet - IC - intake all installed Changed the hard plastic line to the Elevate MAF-turbo pipe - the stock section was too short & pulls the manifold fitting at an awkward angle (IMO) added a QR fitting to the plenum for the boost gauge before I installed it.. routed the lines along the firewall, used the SUR&R heat wrap I had bought for the fuel lines on the XR.. Mototec 3" DP (from EuroSportTuning) installed Currently running the Elevate tune for K04 with all his bolt on mods. Another C30Crew member makes this shroud to fit a Boost Gauge - using the dual boost from the XR. I'll add an EBP bung to the K16 manifold. Bung & line are SS K16 & injectors, tune will go in in the spring.
  14. 22 points
    2 months ago I was made aware of a very clean Silver '98 V70R that had been totaled due to a bent rim and subframe. The owner wanted to sell the car for the buy back price from the insurance company, as long as the car would go to a loving owner. I checked out the car out and knew I had to have it. $850 later and it was mine! I’ve had my white 850 for 8 years. I’ve learned the majority of what I know today directly and indirectly due to that car. In the process of learning I made a lot of questionable and irreversible modifications. I want this V70R to be modified with attention to detail and quality. My aim for this car is a reliable, high horsepower car that retains all of its comforts, and feels confident at speed/handling/braking. The end goal is to swap the engine from the 850 into the V70R with a target of 500AWHP. I haven’t decided on the final turbo setup, but I will be upgrading from the 20G. First thing up was the fuel system. I never want to worry about fuel delivery problems but the stock AWD fuel system is very hindered from the factory. Directly proceeding the stock fuel pump is a nozzle orifice with a 4mm outlet! After this orifice the fuel has to make 2 90º bends in under an inch at which point the line size is 8mm ID to the fuel rail. I decided to replace the in tank fuel line with a 10mm ID hard steel line with smooth bends. Then 6AN stainless steel line from the sender to an Aeromotive FPR. To facilitate the fuel modifications I decided to remove the entire rear subframe. I wanted to take the time to inspect all of the bushings and replace any rotted fuel lines. Luckily, being a Colorado car its entire life there was no rust and all the bushings and fuel lines looked to be in excellent condition. I brass brazed a 6AN fitting to the end of the 10mm steel line. Then brazed the entire assembly to the new sender top. I know it isn’t pretty, but this is the first time I’ve ever brazed; the fittings are solid and leak free. The stock plastic fuel pump housing is held in alignment with a spring, this spring is retained with a slip washer and I wasn’t confident that this slip washer would remain put and removal and installation, so I decided to thread the end of the fuel return and use a nut. Interstingly, I had two senders and they had different diameter fuel returns. The one on the left is from my V70R the one on the right is from a 2000 XC. I elected to use the larger diameter return. I used an Aeromotive stealth pump and fabricated and extension piece to center the pump inlet in the housing. All finished. Coming directly off the sender I have a right angle 6AN fitting. The fitting is very tight, but clears the body with enough room to allow for movement of the fuel tank. Luckily the 6AN fits in the stock undercarriage fuel line carrier. I used a Holley 100GPH billet fuel filter which fits neatly under the car. Purely for cosmetics, I converted the stock return line to braided line right at the transition to the engine bay. I installed an Aeromotive 13129 right above the A/C lines. For the time being I’m using a 5AN to 6AN straight adapter for the fuel rail. This is a temporary solution until I weld a 6AN bung to the fuel rail. Next up was the suspension. I know that there is a very limited amount of options for the rear of a P80 AWD and I wasn’t very excited at the prospect of paying upwards of $1,300 for half of my suspension setup so I decided to cobble together my own. I started with Kaplhenke’s rear coilover spring and bumpstop retainer setup. I went with 350# 8” springs. For the shocks I used QA1 adjustable shocks originally intended for the front of a C5/C6 Corvette. The Corvette front corner weight is approximately 875 lbs, which should be around the same weight as the rear of a P80 AWD. The compressed and extended height also happens to be almost identical at 16.19”/11.2”. The lower mounting point is a ‘T-bar’ mount, and although the Corvette mounting bolts are much too close together to bolt up to a P80, QA1 makes a 5” T-bar mount which can modified to bolt up directly, the mounting ears must be widened by 1/8". The shocks have a single knob for adjustment, but the knob adjusts both rebound and compression simultaneously. For those who want more adjustability they also offer a double adjustable variant. With the car on a lift adjustment is extremely easy. I haven’t tried adjusting with the car on the ground, but I don’t think it would be very hard at all. The Kaplhenke perch and spring setup was $345 and the shocks were $319, so the whole setup was less then $670! I also installed IPD sway bars front and rear. I decided to run a coilover setup for the front as well. I was given a pair of TA Technix coilovers for free and decided to use them as a base. In their stock form they gave the worst ride I had ever experienced in any vehicle I had been in. They use terrible 6” springs that bind with anything over 1” of travel. The springs are ridiculously stiff and the shocks horribly underdamped. I stroked the shaft by hand and could move the shaft in and out with just my index finger… Anyways, I decided to try out the struts with the stock inserts just to see how they would do. I plan on placing Koni adjustable inserts in the bodies in a short time. I used a set of high travel (low stack height) 9” 350# springs with Kaplhenke upper mounts and Luxesteer™. It almost felt sacrilegious pairing these beautiful mounts with Technixs, but it’s only temporary. To get decent ride height I had to use the helper spring from the Technix. I will be going to a dual spring setup in the future, so the helper is only temporary. That’s it for this installment, check in next week for brakes!
  15. 22 points
    Back from the body shop.........My amethyst 850T5R-M clone .........what Volvo should have produced!
  16. 21 points
    Computer projection of Hussains car by next year
  17. 21 points
    The Little Red Wagon was chosen to be one of ten Forum Vehicles in the this year's Portland International Auto Show next weekend. Dropped the car off at the Convention Center this afternoon. First time driving on carpet, into a building and through double doors. Instagram pic. (to follow: @thelittleredwagon) The gf was along for the setup and took some more pics. (cellphone pics are cellphone pics) I will say, surrendering my keys and leaving it in a room full of people was a little odd.
  18. 21 points
    Two Turtles - 30 days for trying to hit on me. Edit - Perm-banned
  19. 20 points
    While Frankensteining a junkyard dash and my old one I decided to fix some of the common problems the 850 interior has. I removed all of the better upholstered parts to the grey vinyl to black. All of the plastic is extremely fragile. (I also reinforced the typical mounts with metal rivetted and epoxied into place) Using parts of the junked dash I cut out side caps to cover the common de-laminated vinyl on the sides of the dash. once you peel the old vinyl off of theses caps you are left with a rough surface that can then be sanded and painted with SEM Landau Black to create an OEM looking piece for both sides. I added hex screws to complete the look but just attaching them with epoxy or 3M tape should be sufficient. If you leave a lip on the front edge of theses pieces they fit nicely between the dash and door weatherstripping. The next issue is the top plastic portion of the dash that cracks from the sun or trying to remove the dash pad. Even the best dashboard I could find in the junkyard had some cracks, and even if you manage to find a perfect one its only a matter of time until it breaks. I created a template of this portion and a Rhino/CAD file for laser-cutting. I can upload the file if someone else wants to attempt to do this, but there is one curve I would probably tweak If I were to do this again. I was advised against making this part from PVC and chose lexan. It maintains all of the defrost holes, VIN and climate sensor windows, and even an R logo for posing. Again this was painted with SEM Landau Black and then attached to the dash with plastic weld epoxy. Make sure to glue every little portion! There were a couple small spots I missed and If I left the car out in the sun the lexan started to warp upwards in these spots. I snuck in some plastic weld after and it has been fine since, Its just much easier to do right the first time around. The portion that flares up near the windshield was covered in an adhesive black weatherstripping from Home Depot. The last part involves the shifter boot for an M56 swap. Initially I combined a leather MOMO Endurance boot with the stock boot hidden underneath it, but it never looked perfect and was coming undone. I then decided to go a different route and separated the rubber bellows out from the OEM manual boot and cut out a black PVC sheet to hold the bellows down. The plastic "clip" thing originally between the volvo boot and knob was separated and reinstalled on the shifter rod under the rubber bellows to hold it in place up top. After conditioning the rubber it cleaned up nicely and looks pretty stock. For the knob I used a MOMO automatico and removed the button and replaced it with a shaved down shift pattern from a M56 Volvo knob. Combined with some heavy washers under the pattern cap and Momo's black endurance adapter, It makes a very nice weighted shift knob. This was version 1.0: (You can see the black dash panels here) Sorry for the awful pictures, and will try to post better ones when I get a chance.
  20. 20 points
    wood all around Feels good to have my suspension/wheels back.
  21. 20 points
  22. 20 points
    So this happened today...
  23. 20 points
  24. 19 points
  25. 19 points
    From the ashes a fire shall be woken...
  26. 19 points
    Photo from this morning. $300 craigslist Tritons FTW
  27. 19 points
    not mine But I took a pic
  28. 19 points
    longbeach. iboost 24 hrs. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Nobody likes mike. probably due to the fact he is a giant douche.
  29. 18 points
    Hi! This is my little s40 t4 from 1998 year. It has now about 700hp / 700nm with 3.0bar boost pressure. Here you can find more specs in english: http://www.garaget.org/?car=92953 - B4194T2 engine fully rebuild with OEM parts / 8250rpm rev limiter / RE85 fuel - JE Forged pistons 81.5mm / 8.7:1 / 1878cc - Cylinder head with stock 31/27mm valves (6mm) and mild porting - Motor Nord H-profil rods 139.5mm - Holset HX40 Billet 66/68mm 20# T3 divided - Turbosmart Comp-gate 40mm HP (40psi / 2.8bar springs) external v-band wastegate - Custom divided T3 exhaust manifold - Custom 3.5" RST exhaust with 3 silencers - Autotech intake cam 11.35mm 240 (1.0mm) TDC 2.0mm - Autotech exhaust cam 11.35mm 227 (1.0mm) TDC 1.0mm - Adjustable camshaft wheels - Dual valve springs (30kg / 84kg@11.5mm) - EV14 1720cc injectors with 2bar fuel pressure (2200cc 3bar) - Civinco SA1000 standalone ecu - Stock T4 wastespark coils and BCR8ES spark plugs (0.5mm gap) - Garrett FMIC 600x300x89 intercooler - M56 gearbox with Quaife LSD - 707-pressure plate and 850R clutch disc & flywheel - Polyurethan lower engine mounts - Adjustable Bosch fuel pressure regulator 2.0bar - Walbro 255lph + Walbro 330lph + 1L Fuel surge tank - Kenne Bell Boost-a-Pump (Fuel pump voltage 13.5V->17.5V) - Custom Dual Plenum Intake manifold + 58mm ported T4 throttle body - Custom 1.5ltr crankcase breather box with 30mm line to outside - 4" aluminium intake pipe + K&N RD-1460 air filter - Aluminium radiator - Quaife torsen differential in gearbox Standing mile 2014 = 308km/h. Here is how it runs on 4.gear:
  30. 18 points
  31. 18 points
    Its nice living next to an old Mill City
  32. 18 points
  33. 18 points
  34. 17 points
    KW V3s with 20-inch XC90 Cratus wheels with hub rings.
  35. 17 points
    Some updates. About half way done with interior now. I will be replacing whole dash to charcoal and wood trim and all door panels next. I reupholstered headliner and swapped the rest of the trim panels to clean charcoal one, also replaced all the grab handles and sun visors with minty tan pieces from an XC in Lynnwood PnP. It looks kinda odd with charcoal, tan, brown and grey pieces now, but will be much better when all said and done "fixed" headliner Brush worked great removing backing foam remains I went with brown/tan houndstooth fabric, it's not optimal headliner material and didn't want to stretch around bigger crevices, but it worked ok in the end Got some decent shots couple days ago too. I haven't washed the car since May so the car is filthy 960 lip And some of the interior
  36. 17 points
  37. 17 points
  38. 17 points
  39. 17 points
  40. 17 points
    New member here, oh yeaa!!! Here's how my 95' 854 T5 sits at the moment, I love every bit of this car... I have a thing for the euro's.
  41. 17 points
  42. 17 points
    DSC_5989.jpg by KeysarPhoto, on Flickr DSC_6004.jpg by KeysarPhoto, on Flickr
  43. 16 points
    Untitled by KeysarPhoto, on Flickr
  44. 16 points
  45. 16 points
  46. 16 points
    Photos taken of my car today when i took it out of the winter storage.
  47. 16 points
  48. 16 points
    Starting off page 245
  49. 16 points
    like a baus... Eibachs Viva 15mm F+R spacers 330 cross slotted rotors F+R Hawk Pads 07 S60R F+R Brembos Medusa's 18x8
  50. 16 points