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Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/21/2020 in all areas

  1. 3 points
  2. 1 point
    Those are some OGs right there. I recognize yang, pras, and mesoam.
  3. 1 point
    How about an OG Zoom?
  4. 1 point
    From now until Wednesday, September 23rd, FCP Euro is running a Community Appreciation Sale offering three ways to save. -Use the code "TEAMFCPEURO" to get 5% off every order and 10% off orders over $499 (excluding MAP items). -Follow @fcpeuro on Instagram as we’re giving away $100 in customer credit every day! Comment on a giveaway post to enter. Head to coupons.fcpeuro.com for more!
  5. 1 point
    I've mostly just been driving this everyday because I've been too busy to bite off any major projects. I guess I should get this thread caught up since my last "update" was about 11 months ago... Back in December, I was driving from my parent's house in RI to my place in Troy NY (3 hours and ~190 miles) and hit a pothole at about 60 mph. It blew a hole at 2 separate points in the sidewall - I'm actually shocked it didn't bend/crank the rim. The tire went flat almost instantly, but luckily I was able to pull over without anything else getting damaged. Fortunately, I had my new Milwaukee M12 Stubby impact with me, so it made getting the flat tire/wheel & 5x108 to 5x114 adapter removed, and spare tire installed a breeze. It was dark, cold, and I was on the shoulder of a highway, so I was appreciate of the time savings the impact offered vs. doing it all by hand. Getting the adapter bolts out of the hub by hand was not a fun scenario in that situation. Fortunately, the M12 had enough torque to spin the bolts out effortlessly. I was only about 40 minutes/35 miles into the drive, so it was a long trip home with 50 mph max speed of the donut spare on the car. Once I made it home (4.5 hours later, FML) my next step was to get a replacement tire and avoid needing to drive with the spare any longer so I bought a lightly used set of snows from a buddy and rocked the "peg leg" look until I was able to get them moved over onto my wheels. Otherwise, aside from a couple big storms, the rest of the winter was uneventful. Here's when we racked up ~2 feet of snow overnight in one storm. Sometime this winter, I was about to roll over 222,222 miles and took the opportunity to have a little fun with the trip odometer Made a run to scrap some old engine parts that had been hanging around the shed for too long: Spring rolled around and the COVD-19 shutdown happened, so I spent about 6 weeks working from home. During that time, I was able to get a bunch of smaller fixes/upgrades crossed off my "to-do" list. Since I didn't need to drive anywhere, I pulled my injectors and sent them off to be cleaned/flow tested. They're originally from my 99 R and had about 250,000 miles. It seemed like a good point to perform a little bit of preventative maintenance so I didn't have to worry about them failing down the road. Boy, did that come back to bite me in the ass. I'll explain a little later... Anyways, got the injectors back in about a week and half after mailing them out. The flow test results after cleaning showed a couple percent improvement at most, but they were basically in great shape to start and didn't have any issues. As a part of the service, they were ultrasonically cleaned, and the filter baskets, o-rings, and pintle caps all got replaced. Re-install was predictably easy - I took the opportunity to switch to the newer P2 style fuel rail clip and o-ring assembly: [ I've had a pair of Powerflex lower transmission mount bushings that I needed to install for a while. Upon removal, the stock mount was pretty gnarly looking, and the rubber bushings were totally worn out, so I'm glad to get the new bushings installed Without access to a shop press, and no desire to burn the bushings out and deal with the mess/odors that accompany that technique, I had to get a little creative with bushing removal. In case anyone is wondering, the pipe clamp worked extremely well and was easier to use than the C-clamp. Once the rubber center of each bushing had been pushed out, the outer plastic sleeves were easily removed with a large screwdriver, and cleaned up with a Dremel sanding drum: Knock the rusty surface down to clean metal again with a 60 grit roloc wheel in the die grinder Apply a couple coats of paint to keep everything protected and looking good, install the new bushings, and the finished product looks much nicer than when I started: The result was a tangible reduction in engine/transmission movement when shifting, especially at full throttle or under heavy load. I didn't notice any additional vibration at idle beyond what is caused by the poly upper engine/firewall bushings. I had an intermittent leak and excess wind noise coming from the top right corner of the windshield. Removal of the a-pillar trim and exterior drip guard trim lead to the discovery of a ~1" long by ~1/8" deep gap in the sealant under the windshield. It appears that when the windshield was replaced at some point prior to my ownership, there was insufficient sealant applied before the glass was set and the result was this small gap. I applied some black silicone to the gap from both the exterior and interior to make sure there was a good seal That fixed the wind noise and no water has come in since I applied the new silicone. I'll keep an eye on it as it ages, but hopefully that puts that issue to rest. When I had all the body work done a couple years ago, the drivers side skirt was replaced to fix some damage the PO caused near the front wheel well. I removed the R door sills prior to the car going to the body shop and hadn't reinstalled them yet. Scrape all the old tape off using a hair dryer and bone tool. Not fun, but not as bad as I expected. It took about 10 minutes per door sill to remove the old adhesive. A quick pass with some polish to clean them up, and it was time to reinstall with 3M high-strength double-sided foam tape. I'd been running one of the $30 eBay heater cores for a few years, but it started leaking so I replaced it with a Behr from FCP. It was leaking at 2 points - along the junction with the hardlines from the firewall, and at one of the endtanks: The Behr also had the same "improved" endtank/core junction design as the eBay core. There were a few significant construction differences between the Behr and eBay heater cores that are indicative of overall quality and why there's such a cost difference between the 2 products. I'll start a separate thread for those pictures, but it was pretty obvious why the heat output from the eBay core always seemed sub-par compared to the OEM core. The drivers side carpet foam was soaked, so it sat outside of the car for a few days to dry out. It's not perfect, but it's far less saturated than it was previously so I'm happy. I will follow up with another post to show how I fixed a slow coolant leak at the thermostat housing and PCV hose, made my own replacement battery cables, installed silicone vac lines, and my fuel injector issue.... I'll also probably reduce the size of some of the images in this post, that's a bit annoying...
  6. 1 point
    Im back! Didnt last a year without a Volvo. Picked up a new family hauler. Nice car but headlights needed sanded bad.
  7. 1 point
    Correct, those Torx screws are for checking valve lash with the cam cover on. The early engines had them and the late ones did not, I'm not sure when the change occurred. Yes your 03 head should be solid lifters.
  8. 1 point
    Damn, getting the band back together and shit.
  9. 1 point
    After alot of testing and rewriting code, we finally got a useful new mod working. As we all know, some time ago my dad Piet found out how to convert to bigger maf housings with the maf factor. Converting to a bigger maf only required multiplying the kg/h numbers in the maf table with a fixed factor, after which the new table is inserted in the bin with the maf editor. I had been playing with some idea's to integrate the maf factor in TunerPro, and came up with a method to do this internally in the ECU. I had this working in m43 already, but m44 proved to be a little more challenging. After a lot of testing and rewriting code we finally succeeded. We made a new function in the ECU programming which multiplies the maf table readout with a factor taken from a scalar in the bin. Of course, this scalar can be inserted in the xdf. So the only thing you need to do to configure your bigger maf, is entering the correct factor in TunerPro. People which already converted their maf tables should insert the stock maf table again for this to work. The ecu will take these values, and multiply them internally. Tuning in a new maf, with an unknown factor, becomes easy as well. You just need to note your kg/h number at idle with your old maf. After installing the new maf, and entering a rough guess for the new maf factor, you only have to finetune the maf factor scalar, to match the kg/h number you noted. Piece of cake with an Ostrich. It's been a while, but a new revision with new features is in the works. The new version will of course contain the maf factor mod, as well as Piet's wideband mod. There's some other new stuff we are working on (I've got something very useful in mind for the big turbo guys), but those might not make it into this release yet, as we really want to push it out as soon as we can. Together with the new release, I will update the filetree of the server hosting the software to make things a little more comprehensive.