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Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/15/2019 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Finally finished up last night.. After getting it together and finding the thermostat housing was leaking like crazy. So pulled the ps pump yet again etc etc. After some gasket repair and couple more hours hoods on, axles nuts tight, and got to run it throught heat cycle. Was about midnight by the time I finished all in all took about 50 hours for full rn swap. Mind you was my first motor remove/replace ever and most my auto mechanical skills startes with this car in June. Was going ti throw on a 19t straight flange they have all over ebay but the 04 t9 motor came with a 60k mile 16t turbo. I'll drain oil tonight after few heat cycles add some more coolant and get some data logs for aaron. I ran wires from rear o2 to vvt solenoid since im not using any stock o2 and hust the wideband. Havent plugged to power solenoid yet til I get the correct tune. All in all wish i had taken more pics but im just glad it works lol. Thanks guys not this thread specifically but all the guys from this site inspired me and answered a lot of my ? Through reading problems of there own. Simply, Hussein, Sconeman, Aaron and few more all convinced me the volvo was the project for me...
  2. 1 point
    Yes...just SRS warning light. The signal from crash sensor is on the same pin B3....but 70 series cluster use additional B5 and B15 pin for SRS light which are not used on 850 cluster. I'll take wiring diagrams,i allready printed ,to my car electician to see what he can say about it. If he can make SRS light to work on bulb check and if SRS system doesn't show a code for it after re-pinning....i'll install the cluster. Otherwise i'll sell it and buy odometer gears for original cluster.
  3. 1 point
    Ive been following your channel since june when i bought my 98 s70 t5 manual. I had put what I considered a fair amount of work into it until i saw some of these builds lol. Was tuned by Vast and was running wmi went really well for the stock 16t (comparatively). Was a granny owned 1 owner car that had never been abused and didn't want to be! Bottom end knock lead to RN swap in progress!! I was inspired by all of you...
  4. 1 point
    Haha, more cool volvo electronics are in the works. Later though.. First the results of today's work. :) After asking around a bit, I decided to take off at least one piston ring to check the clearance. Mahle states that the rings have been pre gapped to the correct size so you should be able to install them. Measuring them, they came up fine for the 350-400 hp range I'm shooting for. Then came the time to line everything up to prepare for assembly: I weighed them again, and again 2 of the piston rod assemblies where ~1 gram lighter than the others. I put them in position 2 and 4. To install them, the big end bearing caps have to come off, and that turned out to be a bit of a challenge. After trying to pull them off for a while, to no avail, we had to come up with a different tactic. In the end I put some cloth over the handle of a hammer and inserted it through the big end. Then I screwed the big end bolts in leaving them slightly proud of the hole. After tapping the bolts lightly with a small hammer, the caps came free: You have to make sure you put the caps back on in the same orientation as they came off. Installing them rotated 180 degrees would be disastrous. Luckely the serial number is stamped on the same side on both the cap, and the conrod, so that can be used as a marker. Then we proceeded to install them into the block. I didn't take any photo's of the process, as we were concentrating on not making any mistakes. Especially the first piston took some trying to get it all right. In the end the process was as following: -With the block upright, put the crank at bdc. -Clean bearing races of the big end very thouroughly -Use oil to lubricate the piston, the bore, and the piston ring tool. Also wet the piston rings with oil. -Put piston into tool, and tighten the tool until the piston rings are compressed enough to fit in the bore. -Make sure the tool is square, and put it on top of the bore. -Make sure the piston is oriented correctly, with the arrow pointing to the timing belt side of the engine. -Use wooden handle of a hammer to gently tap the piston into the bore -Push the piston in far enough so the big end bearing can be installed (rotate crank to make a little more room if required). -Make sure the bearing races, and the backs of both bearings are spotless. -insert the bearing shells. Mine where marked at one side, I made sure that the marks of both the bearings where pointing at the timing belt side of the engine. -lubricate the top bearing shell, and push the conrod into position on the crank, with the crank again at bdc. -lubricate the bottom bearing shell, and insert it into the bearing cap. -place the bearing cap on the crank, completing the big end. Make sure it is oriented correctly with respect to the conrod. -Put some arp assembly grease on both the threads, and the bottom of the head of the arp 2000 bolts. -Screw the bolts in finger tight. -In my case (lacking a stretch meter) torque them down to 55 lb/ft, which is 75 nm. Rinse and repeat. We managed to get 3 pistons in today, the rest will follow later on: