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  1. Did some things recently: JRZ suspension - Took the R manifold off and put on a ported Japanifold - took the 20t off and cleaned up some shitty threads - Got rid of the BOV and cold side pipin did Forge Wastegate and Forge CBV - Replaced everything possible in rear suspension (not fun lol) - 17" pegs powdercoated with 215 45 continental extreme contact sports 5mm spacer in front 20mm in rear - had a real alignment from a local shop that actually tracks cars instead of a 'tuner shop' lol - had a custom center midship brace made to clear a full 3" dual exhaust that is purchased/designed just not welded yet. I am VERY happy with how the suspension sits/rides/quality. I think new, sticky tires with more sidewall helps too. I miss the eye pop of 18's and now think I will get 18" pegs to have too. Got a bunch of parts at a local shop for paint (including my rear spoiler for you haters) and got a carbon fiber rear spoiler so that I can now find carbon fiber mirror covers and front lip! coming up on 112k! Drove it 300 miles in a year - going to change that as this is my only car for now!
    10 points
  2. Hello VS, it has been a while.
    10 points
  3. 8 points
  4. Drove the car to Colombus, Ohio & back this summer. Fiat gathering out there. Car ran very well, but.... the header I made leaks at the flange, and it is a significant restriction in terms of performance. I found a PLM header for the K24 - so I'm in the process of making that fit bought 2" SS mandrel bends to fix it had to remove the cross support to do this - I'll make a new section when it's all done runners rerouted for the Fiat chassis Slip joint sections cut from original header & reinstalled reworked 2-1 collectors to fit mostly welded Cat is going to go under Muffler on top notched & rewelded the crossmember where I needed clearance for the collector
    8 points
  5. The ID of the adapter is ~70mm
    7 points
  6. Last night: got everything back together and took it for a quick drive.
    7 points
  7. Is this a scenario where to get him to appear I need to build a pyre of burning Saab parts and declare the words Fudge Brownie 3 times while spinning around like a dervish? His 50th birthday is coming up on Jan 15th maybe he needs a visit from the ghosts of Volvospeed past? I believe their names are: R Bumper, Pegs, and HIDz
    7 points
  8. Got some new wheels for the whip… 17x7.5” Bridgestone Prodrive GC07-C, 5x108, et38, clear my front and rear BBKs without spacers! 16.4 pounds each. These are forged monoblock wheels, made by Rays Japan.
    7 points
  9. 6 points
  10. Dang forgot to update here - the pickup is mostly done at this point. Just details to cleanup. more X1/9 also got an upgrade
    6 points
  11. Results are looking great. Everything is lining up, but I'm sure I'll need to tweak the elbow.
    6 points
  12. The car is at least back on the ground. The nights out there have been largely broken up with the headlight side gig so work has been slow. What’s left is finishing rewiring the sub and the new amp wiring inside and then I can put the interior back together. The engine needs the intake, couple fender liner panels, brake line bracket and gauge wiring. The R has been super reliable all winter. But ready for some more work. And of course some of the headlights I’ve done. These are full retrofit assemblies that I put together.
    6 points
  13. Thank you! My next project is a 740 wagon, I'm turning it into a pickup The cab will look something like this: some sketches
    6 points
  14. Made it to the Dyno today with a few other Volvo guys. High level parts list: B5234T9 K24 japanifold Green Injectors N/A Intake + TB IPD Turbo back do88 intercooler Vast tune (COP and dual VVT) It's hard to find good info on these cars anymore. I'm very happy with the project, but curious if there's anything to be done with smoothing out the power band. Anyone know the consensus on the N intake manifold vs the RN manifold?
    6 points
  15. I picked up this 07 V8 sport right before the close of the year.
    6 points
  16. Bought this today. Overall it’s in exceptional shape with only 68k miles on it which is crazy for a 98 these days and it was fully optioned when ordered. Most amazing is the window switches are original and clean as the day they were installed. Single owner car well maintained by the best Volvo Indies in the area. But the paint’s a mess in several places because the owner’s husband decided to try to paint over scratches with a small paint brush. I didn’t really want red but it wasn’t that important. Bumpers and hood need to be resprayed and there are decent sized dents in the rear corners below the tail lights - is it possible to hammer those out? Also need to remove the stupid dealer pinstripes and aged door edge protectors. Never owned a Volvo with single stage paint - what am I in for to keep it glossy and not faded? I don’t want to have to wax this thing every few weeks. Steering wheel leather needs to be sorted or probably just order a Redline wrap - they’re still doing good work right? Need a new auto trans lever boot also. Front seats need some treatment - may replace the skin of the drivers side. Rear driver’s door card insert has busted out and needs to be pulled and reupholstered. Nobody out there has Oak R door cards by any chance? Needs a new antenna and new spring seats / strut mounts.
    6 points
  17. I'm getting close to wrapping up some long awaited mods. At a high level, the interior was gutted to recover the headliner, fix the broken dash mounts, and a thorough cleaning. Parts added: DVS 320mm front brakes Stainless brake lines - new steel lines on the rear as well KW V3s control arms end links strut mounts rear spring seats delta links trailing arm bushings replaced sunroof glass, removed sunroof assy to clean and lubricate ...and probably something else in there. I'm really excited about these seat bottoms that I recently found in a junk yard. I speculate that this car has ~300k miles on it... and the last seat bottom (and seat back) really showed it. I'll drive the car for a few more weeks as I wait on some more parts for the new engine/turbo/etc... Parts that are already here: B5234T9 - I've stripped it to the rotating assembly for cleaning and inspection; it gets all new parts going back together dual VVT cylinder head that I've ported myself - 😐 Japanifold N/A intake manifold w/ throttle body/960 plate K24 do88 intercooler/rip kit do88 radiator vast ecu new R bumper and R spoiler that needs to be painted The shop is a mess - I've got a dumpster outside for purging a lot of the stuff that's accumulated over the last few years.
    6 points
  18. Excellent man! It's good to see these X5's are getting the love they finally deserve. Especially the M54 engines, they really are great motors. I do miss the classic Volvo scene, but damn do I love this S90. I just put my BBS wheels on a few days ago, I swear you can feel the weight being lifted off of the car compared to the Cratus wheels, which are like 8 lbs heavier per wheel. Pic below:
    6 points
  19. Lots more changes happened this past month. I installed a clutch slipper which will allow me to dial in the launches and basically just hit the 2 step and then side step the clutch pedal. 99+ P80 clutch master cylinder which has a position sensor that I will use to control flat foot shift. I added a flex fuel sensor and at the same time thought it would be a good idea to redo the fuel lines in black and switch from rubber to PTFE. I also converted everything over to black silicone and all vac lines to -3AN and -4AN. Lastly I built a new intake to practice my aluminum welding and make the bay a bit more presentable. It also fixed a bunch of rubbing issues with the intake. Lastly I threw it on the dyno to clean up the tune a bit. It made some serious power @ 30 psi. 818awhp/595awtq.
    6 points
  20. I'd like to take some time and document some of the progress I've been making on my car. I've spent more money and effort on the car in the last two years than probably the last ten years combined. I've had a handful of 850s before this one, but this has been my favorite by a long shot. So, I like my Volvo... and you guys probably know how the rest goes. 😄 The story of this particular car, a 1996 850 Turbo in Platinum trim goes a little like this: ~late 2010/early 2011, while in my black T5-R, I see a fellow Volvo owner filling up at a gas station. I pull in to the pump next to his to get some gas and strike up a conversation, "That's a really nice car that you've got there..." I ended up talking with the owner for about 45 minutes that night and discussed all sorts of details. He bought the car new from a local dealership for his wife. They loved the car even though it was nearing 210k miles, but were thinking of purchasing something else (ultimately a Prius). I gave my contact information to the owner and told him if he ever wanted to sell it, I would be happy to buy it. Fast forward about a year and I get an email out of the blue from the owner telling me that he hasn't driven the car (about) since the last time we spoke. It's been parked in his apartment complex, and management wanted him to move it. We did some brief negotiating over the phone and he insisted on selling me the car for scrap value since he hasn't been taking care of it. After some reservation, I obliged - the last time I saw this car it was in good condition, but need some TLC. We meet at his complex, and his wife (and my late wife) are both with us. We strike up our conversation like the last time we met at the pumps and he tells me he wants to give me the car, no charge. I offer to give the money that we had previously discussed but he refuses. I drove away that day with a free Volvo 850 that needed some attention, albeit was still running well. Over the next couple months I got the car cleaned up and ready for another harsh Minnesota winter. Here's some of the only pics I have at the time I received it (with the snow tires): Fast forward ~3 years... We're back down in Georgia, and my wife passes away suddenly. As I'm sure you all can imagine, the car (and almost everything else in life) was neglected for the next year or so while I tried to pick up the pieces and raise my then 3 year old daughter. ~1 year later... I finally get around to manual swapping this car, and do it on a super budget. I hooked up with someone who was moving and just needed to unload parts and bought two complete manual swap kits for ~$400(?). I saved the best stuff and sold the rest to recoup my money, plus some. The car was doing great, piling on the miles and just being a Volvo. ~2018 I've been daily driving the car up until this point. I just started a new job with a well-known Japanese company. About two weeks in, on the way home, the oil pressure light started flickering. I realized at this point I was going to need to pull the pan and replace the sump o-rings (again... lol). I gave some careful thought and decided now was the time for me to buy a new vehicle. I purchased my first new car, a 2018 Toyot Tundra... and the Volvo was parked in my shop where it lived for the next year or so as I found the intermittent motivation to work on it. The year(s) of the Covid... Now I'm spending a lot of time at home (working from home) and saving a bunch of money by not commuting in a 14 mpg 4wd truck (fml...), and the seed for a new hobbie is planted - 3d printing. Of course I go in cautious and get a glimpse of the silly things I can make and then my wallet jumps out of my pocket, so to speak. I'm going to do my best to document as many changes as I can that have occurred since 2020 and some of the things I'm still working on. As of today, the mod list on the car is extensive. At a high level, here's what I'm working with: B5234T9 - '04 C70 T5 - refurbed B5254T(?) dual VVT head - 2006 S60 2.5T Aaron tune - in progress still. ~1,100 kg/hr Ported Japanifold Gasket matched N/A intake manifold N/A throttle body Hybrid K24, billet 11 blade 54.50/68 compressor and 9-blade turbine DW 1000cc injectors DW 300 fuel pump Do88 radiator/fmic KW v3 320mm front brakes IPD sway bars General refresh of maintenance and consumables Pictures! (next post)
    5 points
  21. A year or two ago I bought an old OEM wood trimmed steering wheel, to match the rest of the walnut trim interior in my car. The car did not originally come with wood trim, I've been adding it slowly over time. Fast forward a year later, and the wood on the wheel has delaminated and begun cracking off. Running my hand over the steering wheel started to feel like bamboo shoots under the fingernails. I peeled the rest of the wood off knowing it was not going to be salvaged, and started to look into options. There are plenty of professional services for rewrapping, but I just couldn't justify spending so much on it. Estimates were $400 or more, and my car would be out of service for several weeks. So I looked more closely to see if in fact this is something I could tackle myself, having never done this type of work before. Turns out it really wasn't that hard to swap from wood to "alcantara". Photo from when the walnut trim was starting to delaminate: Close up to show substrate underneath wood trim: Once the wheel was removed, the wood was removed piece by piece, and I laid out the micro suede. The trick here is that the top piece of micro suede needs to be crescent or U-shaped, not a rectangle as shown in the photo. I didn't take a photo of this, however. The existing leather on the wheel was carefully warmed up and removed, without cutting any of the stitching. The micro suede was then glued using leather glue, while being careful not to get the glue on the existing leather. While the glue was drying, I wrapped the micro suede with tape to get some pressure on it. The tape was backwards (sticky side out) so that I didn't start pulling up the micro suede when removing the tape. The next step was to do any final trimming of the micro suede, tuck in the edges, etc, and then glue the leather back in its original place. The same process was then used for the leather - the tape was wrapped sticky side out, then another layer was wrapped sticky side in (normal orientation) to really get some pressure on the leather while it dried. I'm sure other methods could be used (saran wrap?) but this worked for me, and the leather and micro suede all dried flat. The last step was to remove all the tape once the glue dried, and then clean up any areas in need of attention. Overall it came out great, especially considering the low material cost. The micro suede also is a very good match to the R seats in the car. I can take more pics if needed of any details.
    5 points
  22. Off to its new home. Big Volvo guy. Getting it for his daughters to drive. I’m a little sad, but happy knowing it’s going to a good home, and also relieved that I only have one older car and no impending projects. My daughters were a sad and going to miss Daddy’s Red Race Car. But happy when I said we’re keeping the gray race car.
    5 points
  23. Minor tinkering tonight. Started to remove the manifold to get dimensions of the pcv box top, and ended with finally cutting the corner off of the ported RN manifold I have. I've got the Deeworks adapter already, so maybe this is the opportunity I have to switch to this manifold. My understanding is that it flows more (+HP top-end), but has a smaller plenum (-mid range)... which has kind of been the theme of this car. It's pretty sleepy and docile below 3,200 RPM, but after that, power comes on like a light switch. I like it. Some cutting was required at the passenger side of the plenum in order to clear the PS resevoir, but I don't see that making much difference. It should be a good comparison flow-wise because this manifold and the N manifold it will replace were matched using the same gasket... and grinder. lol The old with a comparison to N turbo manifold.
    5 points
  24. VVT hubs are worn out on the car. Oil leaking at the cams, and a bunch of slop - especially the exhaust. New ones on order. I was able to get my battery rotated sideways, but ultimately decided it just needs to go in the trunk. I've got some 1/0 marine cable and terminals to run it out back. This frees up a bunch of room up front for intake options. I'm going to try and retro a P2R air box into the 850. I'm still using 940 MAF, so I printed an adapter to take care of that. I'm going to make my own intake pipe to the box. I'm also going to work on printing a large snorkel for the box that will connect to the bumper inlet with 3" hose.
    5 points
  25. 40 degrees in Wisconsin means we can wash the car outside! My shelves are getting emptier with parts going back on the e30 and it looking like a car again. I also assembled one of my headlights. Revising a couple parts on it to make it perfect, but it's a really cool feeling to see it assembled and the projector adapter fitting together like I wanted it to. I shared the products to a few places yesterday and got a lot of amazing feedback.
    5 points
  26. Out with the old and in with the new.
    5 points
  27. forget if i posted this but here is the family car: If you wanted to know... 2014 XC90 (They all have the 3.2L the final year) AWD. Chestnut red/brown sovergn leather. Every package/option even the wood wheel and the 19" RIMZZZ Got 90k on it now and its been great. K&N filter, oem accessory lights, thule roof box and some LEDs
    5 points
  28. for people who still use this forum.. i'm back bois
    5 points
  29. It's been a while since I've posted for y'all, but I picked up a 2005 BMW X5 3.0 with 192k, body damage, and a bunch of small electrical issues and engine/trans things to fix. It's all been cleared up and I wanted to make this X5 a luxury/ish offroader. I think it's mostly there. All engine related leaks have been sorted, doesn't leak a drop of fluids. Trans filter and gasket are done, all electrical gremlins have been repaired. Rear suspension has been completely refurbished (the rear ball joints were blown out to near catastrophic failure). I lifted it using a 40mm body lift, it has 20mm H&R spacers all around, and oversized 265/70R17 All terrains on it. Added wide angle mirrors, full LED tails and brake lights, headlights have been completely restored with new lenses and bulbs. GM3 module was replaced (rear windows were not functioning) as well as the ALC module (which was preventing the driver's light from coming on). Came with a knockoff key from some junk key shop, so I bought the AK90 programmer for new keys, ordered 2 cut keys on ebay for 90 bucks, and now they are fully functional OEM looking keys without an issue. Added a full touchscreen android unit that is able to run android auto. I really really love this thing, and i've put on about 1500 miles with all new fluids and the overhaul has been done, it's really been a great SUV for lugging stuff around. The only other thing I would like to do is to get a metal offroad bumper for it, since the mounting brackets on this plastic bumper are all separated. but I am very very happy with this X5 so far. Looking forward to winter with this X-Drive.
    5 points
  30. remember when we would flood TB and create all kinds of shit lol and Vice Versa.
    5 points
  31. Okay, now it's actually time for the subframe installation and repairs to the damage caused by the control arm coming out. I drove to my buddy's house to do the work in his driveway. On Saturday morning, I got my car up on jack stands, then got the HF engine bar in place, and started disassembly to remove the subframe, the control arms, the steering rack + tie rods, and the motor/transmission mounts. The front swaybar (stock 20mm with Energy Suspension poly bushings) would come out and get transferred over to the new subframe. By Saturday evening, I had the old parts removed and the new subframe assembly nearly ready to install. To get the AWD-style front engine mount to bolt onto the FWD subframe, there is a small nub on the bottom that contacts the control arm bushing bracket. It quickly gets trimmed off, and problem solved: Starting again on Sunday morning, the new subframe had everything installed, and ready to get installed. Here's the list of new parts for anyone who is interested: Custom powder-coated FWD subframe w/ AWD transmission mount bracket and BNE Dynamics Delrin subframe bushings, OEM engine mounts, OEM 99 AWD transmission mount, TRW remanufactured FWD steering rack with inner tie rods, TRW outer tie rods, Lemforder end links, 93 850 aluminum control arms, new Meyle HD ball joints, new OEM ball joint bolts, and new hardware for everything else. Here is where things started to go sideways... With the subframe lined up and close to installed, I realized the rear engine mount on the FWD steering rack was hitting the downpipe and preventing the rack from moving upwards into position: Knowing that I would have to remove the whole assembly, that was enough to stop my progress for the weekend. Here's how it sat for a week until I could get back to work on it Now, in the process of removing the power steering feed line from the rack a 2nd time in the weekend, the o-ring that seals the line into the the rack was damaged. So I looked up the part number, called the local dealership and ordered a couple of o-rings. I got the o-rings picked up and the next weekend, I started work on my car again. Once the rack/subframe assembly was out of the car, I cut the rear engine mount bracket off the steering rack: Shot it with some black paint to make the cut blend in and soothe my OCD after hacking up a brand new steering rack: When I went to install the new o-ring on the power steering feed line, it was too small and didn't fit. Turns out, I gave them the wrong part number . I had to re-order the right o-rings, so that stopped my progress on re-assembling the subframe for the weekend. When the control arm came out and the wheel got ripped backwards, the fender was yanked outwards as well. I posted some photos of the cosmetic damage in my earlier post. What also happened was that the lower fender bolt bracket got yanked out of the chassis and the captive nut was broken. You can see that at the bottom of the fender here: I was able to find a "license plate nut" at Advance Auto Parts that fit properly and allowed me to bolt the fender back in place. The fender still needs to be replaced, but this kept the lower portion from flapping around as badly as it did before. I also took the opportunity to drain my ~2 year old OEM transmission fluid and replace with Redline Lightweight Shockproof. This calibrated syringe from FCP makes providing the proper 2.1 L of fluid incredibly easy and was a great purchase. I had also noticed that the top mount of the passenger side coilover had gotten a small bend in the accident. Given that my CX Racing coils had been installed for a while and were starting to get rusty, so I decided to replace both front coilovers to be safe. As an unplanned purchase, I couldn't justify JRZs, or even BCs, so I decided to give the Maxspeedingrods non-dampening adjustable coilovers a chance. At $270 shipped, it was worth the gamble. The shipped super quickly, which really was a pleasant surprise for free shipping. They looked alright so I got them installed on the car - I'll share some more detailed thoughts if anyone is interested. I HATE the way the orange powdercoating looks on the car compared to the black CX coils, but it's not that big a deal in the grand scheme of things. Then, on the THIRD weekend of this project, I had the correct PS o-ring and was able to get everything reassembled. Safe to say, it made a tremendous improvement to how the car rides and handles. Between the delrin subframe bushings, fresh control arms, new steering rack / tie rods, the front end feel of the car is totally transformed for the better. My dash mounts are pretty destroyed, and this nearly eliminated all the squeaking over rough roads. Next post I'll talk about alignment / new tires / unexpected issues portion of the subframe install saga...
    5 points
  32. I might be able to help you out, currently just doing PAP-smears out the back of the wagon in a Walmart parking lot but I’m looking to expand into mobile alignment as well.
    5 points
  33. He had a thread on my X1/9 forum for that build - very nicely done all over. $43K is a nice price for an X1/9 K/swap. They'll have to bury me in mine, I'm never selling it....
    5 points
  34. Got something from a friend to make the suspension job on the 850 easier.
    5 points
  35. Paid someone to replace rear diff in my wife's XC60. Installed the upgraded unit so I don't have to worry about the dreaded pinion gear whine again. No way I'm laying on my back in the garage trying to do this. Also had them replace the broken front trailing arm bushings when everything is out. Money well spent.
    4 points
  36. Picked up a 04 Xc90 for a good price just after Christmas 2020 because I needed a 7 seater on hand. hit a deer with it going to my parents house Christmas Eve 2021. On the interstate. No injuries inside the car thankfully. We were 7 miles from home and we were able to make it to our destination. insurance totaled it out and just before the close of 2021 I picked up this 07 v8 sport to replace it. so far I’m very happy with the purchase.
    4 points
  37. The more I read about bench bleeding on the e30 it seems to be pretty evenly split. But I read severaly people say that with a power bleeder (not vacuum bleeder) that bench bleeding wasn't necessary. Print No. 2 came out almost perfect yesterday. My measurements for the holes were a mm off but simply enlarged them with a drill bit. The 944 booster sits flush against the firewall and pushes against the clutch hose from the reservoir. Made a 5mm spacer and it fits much better!
    4 points
  38. 4 points
  39. Drove to my parents house and back in the snow. Mostly just slush and some ice buildup on the road, but the front of the car was packed snow. Back home now with no snow in Everett currently. Temp is dropping quickly now. It is supposed to be down to 9F for a low on Tuesday. Turbo weather.
    4 points
  40. Waiting on a couple things before I can reassemble the HVAC box. In the meantime I picked up a 1000lb hydraulic table from HF and used that to drop the complete engine from the car rather than using a hoist. It may have taken a little bit longer, but the e30 is similar to the 850 in that the engine needs to come out at a pretty extreme angle. I was able to avoid the hassle and frustrations of using a hoist at least. I have some areas of rust that need addressed in the engine bay and am taking this opportunity to strip the entire engine bay and respray it. Stripping off all the seam sealer. Patch one rust spot and then other areas are just surface so those will be ground down and spray with rust encapsulator.
    4 points
  41. Drove it 20+ hours round trip. Ran 5 30 minute sessions. Even slept in it. Not the most comfortable car to drive long distances. The car doesn't have AC, PS, ABS, radio, carpet, sound deadening etc. 😂 IEM's + Spotify FTW. The RT615K+'s are a year old. They have a few DE's, and a few autocrosses on them. Plus a few thousand street miles. Very satisfied with them. They last but aren't the stickiest "200TW." I rode shotgun in one Elliott's track cars. Slicks > 200TW. Slicks on another set of wheels might be my next move for the 944. #doitfordale My friend Elliott's Euro RHD S2 won peoples choice award.
    4 points