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Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/18/2018 in all areas

  1. 6 points
  2. 6 points
    Hi Guys, It's been a while. figured I'd update those who still use the forums. I bought a 2013 S60 T5 AWD, with only 38k miles on it back in October and have been adding parts to it for Carlisle 2k19. The other day I got my set of BBS CIR's on my S60 and painted the calipers gold. A few other mods include R-Design rear diffuser, Magnaflow custom axleback, R-Design trunklid spoiler, H&R Springs, K&N filter (if that even counts..), a few other things. But it's so comfortable and It's my favorite car I've owned so far. Pictures attached.
  3. 6 points
    Yeah, I think the 99 XC should be the same as the 99 R angle gear I have in there right now. Last night I finished assembling everything and got it ready to start up. It fired on the first try, and no leaks either! I was (still am, to be honest) ecstatic. This project was a lot more involved that I originally expected. I spent all my free time working on it over the last week and that took a toll on me both physically and mentally. I’m really happy it’s done. I’ll drive it home tonight once I finish cleaning my tools and spare parts up
  4. 6 points
    Yesterday at work. also some bonus pictures from the last month.
  5. 5 points
    Put about 6,000km on the car since I last posted, and it has continued being good to me! A couple weeks ago I replaced both rear wheel bearings and parking brake pads and hardware, along with the final original engine mount - the passenger side one, and trunk struts. It's nice that I've only had to spend about $300 on parts for the last 12,000km of driving... After the mechanical work I spent a day and a half detailing the interior and exterior. I haven't been as lucky with the cosmetic stuff as the mechanical - the clear coat on the rear wing has begun to fail pretty badly, the headliner droop actually came apart at the rear window so it's taped up for the time being, and back in May someone appears to have dropped a bike onto my driver's side rear door and left a nice big dent! That said, those are terribly difficult or expensive fixes, and the car still cleans up like this 🙂
  6. 4 points
    Since everything is being ported into PHP7 I decided to make my life easier and merge down a few sites. S40 Concepts, S60R and V70R.com are being merged into VS. If you had a paid membership on any of those forums it will carry over. Members originally on VS may see a few errors if you had accounts on the other forums. If you did post it up here and I will address as I can. Permissions and forums are rebuilding now so there will be errors. We are talking over 5 million cells so this will take a while.
  7. 4 points
    2 years project done
  8. 3 points
  9. 3 points
    you cant get flamed on vs anymore, there isnt anybody here to flame you 😞
  10. 3 points
  11. 3 points
    hey guys I lowered my car
  12. 3 points
    And just like that two becomes three... Wrapped up a lot of small things, like:replaced the driver's side seat belt with my old modified one (has a passenger lockable buckle and belt wound onto a driver side case), completed pedal box swap to add the clutch pedal, clutch master and piping, shifter in, carpet back in, headliner back in, some trim pieces in, main wiring harness in place but needs to be modified to remove TCM, finished heater core, heater lines, turbo coolant and oil feed lines, Not major things, but they needed done. Waiting for the downpipe to complete the exhaust, three weeks out.
  13. 3 points
    and that one is extra sexy. love the rear window louvers and the color/wheel combo!
  14. 3 points
    Working on fixing the pics - starting from the beginning.
  15. 2 points
    Andy, headlights are the windows to the soul.
  16. 2 points
    Its the little details that kill ya... Install the downpipe, the exhaust hangers are rotted out, so order replacements. Installed them Dipstick is missing, Go to pick n pull, get one, get home and realize your engine is a B5244T3 not at T2, throw the dipstick as far as you can across the yard, check Row52 for an '01-03 P2 Install new Snabb intake pipe, cant find PTC valve to insert, spend 2 hours tearing garage apart looking for it only to realize you sold it with the old intake pipe... stew in corner for a bit My whole day went like this. Steps forward, steps back. Just need to get this done so I can justify all this irritation with blissful shifting and SUCK-BANG-BLOW sounds
  17. 2 points
    From the Ithaca trip -- was good to see some of the guys again!
  18. 2 points
    Man, that's fugly, but good job for the DIY ingenuity!
  19. 2 points
  20. 2 points
    Hey. That is an M4.3 bin - the "T5-R" was a 1995 model only. In addition, that's the European bin - the US spec is 628 (both for automatic transmissions). If you're picking bin files from Motronic Suite, you need the ones that are 128kB. You have to be really careful with this stuff, dude. Messing this up can potentially cause catastrophic damage to your engine. Literally. Please read as much as you can, and make sure you follow instructions. If you're looking for a stock bin file that will up your power a bit, then the stock 607 (automatic) or 608 (manual) bins are as high as you can go on M4.4. Those are 236 hp from factory. - S
  21. 2 points
    Lots of cleaning today. The engine bay had all 230k miles of dirt and oil stuck up in every cranny. Made a list of all the parts needed to complete the changeover to manual before the engine can go in. I'll order them up tomorrow. Decided to change out the heater core while I'm at it. Since the engine has Evan's waterless in it before; I'm planning on flushing it and to use the Evan's again. If the old heater core were to stay, it would have to be removed and flushed out and preped for the waterless anyway. Might as well put a new one in there to avoid the blowout. The Ronal R-39 18" wheels are being powder coated this week. One was curbed a bit ago, so once the wheels were stripped, I took the one curbed to a repair shop. They filled and filed it so perfectly, that I had a hard time finding the curbed area. Having them done in "Anthracite" since I think the hyper silver whey were originally really does not go with the laser blue. Once the bay was clean, I installed the IPD front sway bar. I cannot seem to find the HD Sway Bar Ends, but I think that is because the the passenger side kept loosening and breaking. I think I threw them out out of frustration. Might have to buy new ones... Almost clean... when the wheels get back, I'll roll the car out and pressure wash the rest of the grime off
  22. 2 points
    Winter mode engage
  23. 1 point
    We swapped an RN motor into the wife's '97 GLT. Only one of the lines came over the engine (Feed), so I just bent it around the VVT solenoid, and used tubing for the evap line. Then we just modded the cover to fit over it. Some guys have replaced the section of the line(s) that go over the engine with braided flex stuff. I swapped the thermostat housing and cover. We were still using the 850 coolant tank, and needed the vent hose.
  24. 1 point
    Attention: The first 30 or so pages of this thread are outdated. Please refer to the M4.4 Wikia article where all the relevant information is currently being collated. Before asking any questions please read from at least page 30 on. I know there is a lot of information in this thread, but I can almost guarantee any question you ask has already been answered! One of the things lacking in the Volvo community is easy tune-ability for cheap. So, for the past month or so I've been working on tuning M4.4 for free. Work has been done in the past with MotronicSuite, however development stopped halfway leaving a mostly unusable product. I have created an .xdf definition file for TunerPro with the most important map and scalar locations. It is not finished, but should be a good starting point for anyone willing to experiment. If we can get a good base of experimenters we can figure out the most effective tuning methodologies and how the maps play together. Together we can make freeware tuning a reality! So far I've been successful in modifying a S70T5-M .bin file for green injectors, increasing the requested load, disabling the rear O2 checks and making the timing more aggressive. I'm still working on how to disable the SAS checks. I do not have A/C so I have not worked on making the A/C commands play with an originally equipped M4.3 car. Therefore flashing a M4.4 tune on your M4.3 could ruin your A/C! I'm not exactly sure what happens to the A/C when a M4.4 ECU is used; if anyone can enlighten me I can look in solving the problem. Alright, now how to flash your M4.4 ECU. You will need TunerPro, the .xdf definition and an appropriate .bin file (all linked at the bottom). The .bin file is the contents of the flash chip from an ECU. It contains the code that tells the ECU how to interpret sensors and run the engine. It contains assembly language instructions along with look up maps and scalars. The .xdf is a TunerPro specific file that contains the addresses of the maps and scalars. Open the .bin and .xdf file in TunerPro and you will see the items that you can modify. A word of caution, modifying some of these values can cause catastrophic engine failure. Don't modify something unless you have the appropriate monitoring ability (Wideband, EGT, etc). It is possible to flash the ECU in the car using a cheap VAG-COM cable. However, in order to flash the ECU you must pull pin B8 on the ECU to battery voltage. Having pin B8 at battery voltage when the ECU is turned on causes the ECU to enter bootloader mode, this allows the contents of the flash chip to be erased and written to. The switch on top of ARD’s ECU’s enables bootloader mode. To do it yourself you can open the ECU box and wire a switch in between pin B8 and A12(ignition power). Or you could just solder a long wire to pin B8 and run it to the positive post on your battery. Flashing M4.4 requires fairly high voltage (13.5ish) so your battery must be fully charged and healthy to flash! My battery is old and I do not have a very powerful battery charger so I flash on my desk. I use a 15 volt power supply and connect the VAG-COM cable and power connections using jumper wires. I have simplified the whole process quite a bit, if you want more information please just ask. If anyone is interested in adding additional items to the .xdf I can provide a DAMOS file for reference. Updated 3/10/13 10:44PM : TunerPro .xdf for non-immo bins Checksum Plug-in ECU Flasher Plug-in Manual .bin Auto .bin Forgot to mention, there are a few maps labeled NTBD. There is a problem with these maps, most just don't have the axis internally linked.
  25. 1 point
    Price: $2250 OBO. Certainly willing to work out a deal if you'd like to buy the M56H Swap Kit as well. Selling a beloved, fast, fun 1997 850R (854R) Sedan. I'm the third owner, car was originally sold here in San Francisco Bay Area, had a brief stint in Connecticut (i think 6-ish months), then was a Sacramento car before I purchased it about four years ago. I wouldn't hesitate driving it across country (I did about 600 miles in it about a month ago). Stats: 1997 850R 158890 miles 189 White Exterior: X70 Door Handles (The front two are in the kit of parts) Engine: 18T White Injectors FCP Sport Silicone Couplers Silicone Boost Lines Ford Focus RS BL3Z-9K378-A Turbo Control Valve ARD Tune iPd Exhaust Suspension: H&R Lowering Springs with new-ish Monroe Sensa-Trac (~15k miles) Genuine Volvo Strut Brace Interior: Aftermarket Unit with USB Input Aux USB ports (5V/3A) Antenna Up/Down Switch Homelink Mirrors Lighted Map Light Every bulb on dash has been changed. What doesn't work / issues: -Driver's Seat Back (there is a brand new cable included with the purchase of the car - not pictured.). -Engine Ticks Randomly (compression verified at 140 +/- 5psi), highly suspect this is due to oil pick up tube and o-rings. Started about 2k miles ago. -Oil Leaking from Turbo return line. -Paint could use a polish (hey, it's a 23 year old car!). -Has the standard 850 dash rattles. -Door handles in front don't match (the correct handles from a X70 car are included with the purchase of the car). Some recent work: -Re-sealed the top half of the cam carrier cover. -Replaced the door lock actuator on fuel tank door. -Oil changed recently, along with fuel filter. Comes with: Two boxes worth of spare parts (see last photo of spread). Many things that are spares or useful for making the car perfect.
  26. 1 point
    Replaced the driver seat belt so I can drive the car again. $500 new, $23 wrecking yard. Luckily I found a few in the yard. First one I pulled did the same thing mine does, not unwind, but the second one works fine. Then I installed a short shift in the spider.
  27. 1 point
    Guess they hit everywhere! Pretty cool.
  28. 1 point
    Bought another S60. Only 106k miles and a binder of service records!
  29. 1 point
  30. 1 point
    Paid $2,000 for this 04 v70, two owners with almost 69,000 miles on it.
  31. 1 point
    Coming together. Should be running on the road tomorrow if my front caliper adapters show up. Untitled by britt edward, on Flickr Untitled by britt edward, on Flickr Untitled by britt edward, on Flickr
  32. 1 point
    😂😂😂 Congratulations Greg!
  33. 1 point
    Pics or it didn't happen
  34. 1 point
    The 4T4 was a great setup, very quick spool and better top end than k24. I made 388awhp and 426 awtq @ 25-ish psi on a Mustang dyno, but was having boost control problems, which ended up being the wastegate rod bushing/ design flaw. (Corrected before I sold it to you)... that being said, the new setup should be quite a bit laggier, but with obviously more room up top. I know, right? Aaron is the MAN VAST tuning, all credit is his. I just paid for it. Thanks Andy! I’m like a kid waiting for Christmas. It’s unfair. I’m flying out to Denver tomorrow, driving it to California for a standing 1/2 mile event Saturday, then the big Davis meet on Sunday, then home to Portland from there. Should be a blast!
  35. 1 point
    I would go a step further and assert that earlier iterations of my RN swaps *never* ran properly with VVT disabled/ blocked off. Part of this was surely inferior tuning by MTE, but if you have the option I would absolutely recommend tuning for the VVT, especially on later RN dual VVT heads. Oh, and make sure VAST tunes your car.
  36. 1 point
    Nice one! What constant are you running now? Its a shame that the info isn't right for the VXR injectors as I too bought them in the hope they were 470cc. Happy Easter!
  37. 1 point
    Yeah, all the spring force is against the collar. The collar engages several of the threads at once so it helps to spreads the force out.
  38. 1 point
    Lookin good Brandon/Aaron!! I’m excited to see it all come together
  39. 1 point
    It's a bit off topic, but anyway.. 🙂 That's a nice one. I have "too big" pipes in and from the turbo (4" (100mm) into the turbo and 3" from turbo thru intercooler and manifold). Idle was crap with those volumes from MAF to manifold. Solution: MAF after intercooler (measures perfect even if it is in a "boosted pipe"). Bennefits: Perfect idle, Nice response, I can keep big-sized pipes for low pressure drop. Downsides: Not good for year around use in cold climate, ice can be present in the air after the intercooler. My car is a summer car so there is no drawbacks for me. I have used it for a couple of years, works epic for me! I can use open dumpvalves together with my Turbo + Eaton Supercharger setup without issues. // Turboforslund
  40. 1 point
    Question regarding the current state of A/C; have any additional maps pertaining to corrections on fueling/ignition/anything engine related when switching A/C been found in the past years? Ever since I switched to M4.4 (Piet's AC mod) from my M4.3 car, my engine will show weird idling behavior as long as the A/C is on. More precisely, with A/C on, as long as I'm still rolling, but with the clutch depressed, the engine will drop down to 2000RPM exactly and idle there. Only after i've come to a complete stop, the RPM's will drop to normal ~900rpm idle after a second or so. Or i'd have to force the RPM down with with shifting to a higher gear, if I force it to 1000 RPM it will stay there. So when driving with A/C towards a traffic light, or in erratic slow traffic where I clutch&roll a lot, I'll be idling at an annoying 2000RPM most of the time. The one A/C correction table I have right now doesn't seem to do much, zeroing it out gives no change, and it seems like something is actively controlling the idler to target 2000rpm. Sound familiar to anyone?
  41. 1 point
  42. 1 point
  43. 1 point
    Drove out to Re-Volv and picked up the replacement engine from Nick yesterday. It’s a B5234T9 with 127k from an 04 C70 - this is exactly the engine I was looking for! When it came time to unload the engine from the truck I rented, the shop’s lift couldn’t quite go high enough to allow me to drive the truck out so I had to enlist a couple friends to help
  44. 1 point
  45. 1 point
    Yeah, Aaron (TMM9) from VAST with the handiwork! Nope! The 4t4 was fun, but looking for a bit more powa... you’ll like that turbo tho. Have you installed it yet? -Brandon
  46. 1 point
    98 V70R Booty Untitled by britt edward, on Flickr
  47. 1 point
  48. 1 point
    That really got to you last year, sorry about that. I stopped caring once I found out how small-minded the prick was behind them.
  49. 1 point
    I know this is for non-car photography, but here are a couple I've taken with my new D750.
  50. 1 point
    http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/notifications/options/ That will let you see how your settings are configured. Other thing to check is make sure they are not being sent to a spam folder.