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Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/29/2019 in all areas

  1. 8 points
    Ever since I got my 1969 Dodge Super Bee, Red has been ignored and left to sit in my garage during the summer and stored away in the winter. But since I sold my Quaife to a fellow member, I figured I should take Red to a tuner show and drop off the Quaife. She still looks good. I went to Sweden back in July 1998 to take delivery and spirit her around Sweden. 22 years old and only 126K miles.
  2. 8 points
  3. 7 points
    Wagon looking good down at Carlisle
  4. 7 points
  5. 6 points
    Maybe it was out of boredom; The Saff is back in Denver with Aaron getting a heart transplant, Darton sleeves, Wiseco 10:1 pistons, 2.56 liter, new rods, KM cams... that’s a story for a later date. But I don’t curently have a Volvo to drive and I get kinda twitchy and angsty when I don’t have a Volvo to drive. Jane’s p3 na XC70 does not really count. Maybe it was out of jealousy; My co-worker Eliot has a clean black on black ‘98 S70t5a that always makes me long for the uber clean ‘98 s70 t5m (also black on black) that I stupidly sold 7 years ago to buy Ben Kaplan’s spendy coilovers for the Saff. It made sense at the time, but lord have I questioned that decision subsequently. It had an R bumper and springs and yellow konis (which don’t seem to exist anymore?!&@$), and it was owned by a doctor and only serviced at a dealership and it even had non delaminated door panels and it was immaculate and I sold it because I was dumb. And still am, to be fair. Maybe dumber. Happens with age. Regardless, I found a 161k bone stock ‘98 S70 T5M down in Grants Pass, a quaint meth-driven Southern Oregon hamlet. Did I mention they like their meth? The fella who was selling it knew enough to know it was a somewhat rare car with the factory m56, but he didn’t want an arm and a leg for the car and after talking with him for 45 minutes I knew he loved it and cared for it and that I wasn’t insane to send a deposit and book a one-way flight to nearby Medford. I swear most people who buy one way tickets to Medford, Oregon are doing so with the express purpose of transporting meth or sticky-icky or both back up to Portland. But not me, no sir. My addiction is far more dangerous and difficult to kick. Scary virus-laden plane ride: Craigslist pics: The plan is to keep this one stock, or mostly stock. Famous bleeping last words, right? But srsly... the Saff scratches that itch and then some. So, the plan when I bought this one was to lower, put on the Heicos that used to weigh the poor Saff down with their 28 pounds of girthy 10-spoky goodness, R bumper (I have a spare), paint correction and Jewels. So this weekend the car got full stage zero: -Bosch cap and rotor -Bosch plugs -Bougi wires (this b-itch is bad and bougi) -Bosch fuel filter -Bluebox PCV, complete -Air and cabin filters Previous owner replaced the Tbelt and water pump with an Aisin kit 8,000 miles ago, so happy day. Previous owner did not replace cam seals at that time, and now I get to do that because mr. cam seal is leaking, not so happy day. That will be later. Also put some H&R’s on along with the Heicos. Today on my lunch break I dropped the car off at my paint guy’s place for R bumper, re-spray rear bumper, rear spoiler, door trim, roof trim, PDR, and paint correction. Should have it back Friday. All that’s missing are the Jewels, which I’m hoping to grab from Will the Scott, and some R door panels. Who has em? Can’t find any on this coast and everyone that has them on SS are on the other coast and don’t want to ship. Anyway, I impulsively bought another Volvo and I’m a little bit ashamed and might go cut myself or ask a bum to put a cigarette out on my arm. Because, well, that’s what sick people do.
  6. 6 points
  7. 6 points
    5.5 years of progress between these two pictures.
  8. 6 points
    2014 XC90 - 71k miles - 1 owner and dealer maintained and in great shape - every single option possible (sovereign hide leather in CHESTNUT, 19's, wood wheel, blah blah) Selling our 2013 GLI and this is taking over for my wife. I wanted a 17+ XC90 R-Design T5 but needed something I wouldnt have a monthly payment with for now
  9. 6 points
    Worked on the heat shield / trunk floor framing today. Started with this heat shield from the S40 AWD cut & folded to fit the opening, set upside-down here to use the opening to form the edges. Used the mallet to flatten the dimpled flanges, then pressed them bewtween two flats in the vice after this Had to mull over what to do about the raised area - I decided to make a aluminum square tube frame to contain it, upon which the stainless steel floor pan will be attached. air gap between the shield and panel two sections will be cut & welded as one The excess from the shield should be sufficient to make a panel between the exhaust bay & engine bay Whilst I was on a heatshield kick I cut the Honda manifold shield to fit the header cut edge was folded in on itself to keep the two- layer integrity Have to weld tabs back on the manifold flange, and one by the collector to support it
  10. 6 points
  11. 5 points
    Wrapped up the nose for right now - and moved on to the mechanical work needed to get it running. Dropped the subframe, swapped the oil pan, tack welded the replacemnt subframe section & took the car out for a drive for the first time in 3 monnths! replacement, and new brake line I had to fabricate to replace the one crushed Also painted/dyed the canvas targa panel
  12. 5 points
    Quarantine boredom.
  13. 5 points
    All done painting and finally driving it.
  14. 5 points
  15. 5 points
    My Red car got hit for like the 5th time since I've had it (NONE OF THEM MY FAULT) and i just got tired of sinking money into a body that wasn't straight, among other issues I just didn't have the will to fix. It had so many things wrong with it despite everything I did and other than it being stupid fast it was somewhat annoying to drive. I haven't done a photo shoot yet, but everything that was wrong with my red car is right with this car. It's so much nicer to drive. This is my plan! Except with the koni yellows I have. At this point I think lowering springs are too much of a trade off, especially since I don't even track my car. Are you happy with that setup considering you do autox and stuff?
  16. 5 points
    bought a john deere z540R this am. 60" zero turn... 2 acres in 40mins lol maybe less ITS AN 'R' guys! tractorspeed.com
  17. 4 points
    Im back! Didnt last a year without a Volvo. Picked up a new family hauler. Nice car but headlights needed sanded bad.
  18. 4 points
    Stumbled across this R today near my home. Guy was the fifth owner of it. A DC car. Not bad, but needs some TLC compared to Red.
  19. 4 points
    Still going strong after 10+ years of ownership.
  20. 4 points
    I got the car back from paint today; R bumper resprayed and fitted, Rear bumper resprayed, Rear spoiler resprayed, Door side trim resprayed, Roof trim cleaned up and resprayed, 6 panel PDR (I didn’t know it was that bad), Full paint correction. New rear mudflaps fitted and a shiny new “T5” trunk lid badge. He took the flaking factory roof trim coating/paint weirdness off and applied a lightly textured plasticy bed-liner material. I’m not super impressed with that, but it looks ok- certainly better than before and considering the OEM S70 roof trim is for sure coming out of Sweden these days, if it’s even still available, I will live with his solution. This used to be something I would have messed with, but I’m old and over that shizz. Plus, I doubt my homespun solution would have looked as presentable as his. There are definitely people in the world who are skilled at photographing black cars. I- Well, I am definitely not one of those people. Let’s be honest, I can’t take a picture anyway. But the Saff is so forgiving in its coppery, bronzy, goldy, pearly goodness that even a hack like me can create images that are nice to look at. So, what I’m driving at is the pics don’t do this car justice... it’s *really* clean.
  21. 4 points
    Reminds me of that scene in three stooges when they were pretending to be plumbers in that mansion.
  22. 4 points
  23. 4 points
    I'm such a ricer.
  24. 4 points
    Thanks for the insight Hussein. I am currently using a 12AN drain from the turbo to the oil pan. Its works perfectly... but however Definetly won't work with the AG there like you said. I have a RNC prepped block so I am going to drill out and tap the RNC return since I need to replace my RN oil pan that has the drain bung welded on (hits the AG). Im going to install a 1/2NPT to 12AN and try to 45 or 90 off my turbo. For the DP it looks like a 90, 45, 90. The only have a left side exit exhaust and plan on keeping it that way, so won;t have any problems with heat around the surge tank (have it mounted in the same location you had yours). Pushing along... Made some homemade poly bushings for the diff cover since they are NLA: Got the rear subframe brackets I designed welded in & the VC mount.
  25. 4 points
    3M vinyl lettering finally came in yesterday , and it was a sunny warm day (for a change), so I got the lettering installed. Went easier than I was expecting - has a nice firm transfer sheet that keeps the lettering positioned 3M 'Dark Red' scotchcal film. Matches the Volvo red reasonably well I'm happy
  26. 4 points
    Waiting for color samples for the "icsunonove" lettering. Ordered another sticker I feel is appropriate now:
  27. 4 points
    Thanks! Just finished up the hood today. So that completes the wrap job finally.
  28. 4 points
    Dropped in a wooden steering wheel from a C70 (I think) over the weekend. Was straightforward thanks to Robert DIY's video. Now I just need a wooden shift knob...anyone? Or, any info on converting a S40 shift knob to work in a P80?
  29. 4 points
    Been doing a little bit of work here and there on the E46 330i. I was getting it ready for the local BMW CCA AutoX and the occasional HPDE but who knows how this season will go now. H&R race springs Koni Actives (came on the car, not fan. Not enough travel for the H&R's. Looking at ST XTA coilovers.) E46 M3 front sway ECS Tuning rear sway bar Turner Camber front plates Godspeed rear camber arms Ultra Racing front strut brace Garagistic rear strut brace Garagistic stainless brakes lines ATE Amber fluid EBC Yellow Stuff brake pads (damaged box dirt cheap 🙂) Corbeau FX1 Pro seat DS1's with Federal RS-RR's Also did a tune up. Coils, Plugs, hot air intake (factory box was cracked / broken), fuel filter, valve cover gasket, diff fluid and transmission fluid. Also might throw on the mechanical fan delete I have sitting in the garage. Still need to install the Bimmerbrake headers. And at some point do the manual swap (picked that up for $300 😁). It came with some rice-tastic headlights and taillights swapped them back to stock.
  30. 4 points
    Bought a pretty beat up black 850 R. The interior, was grungy, has a broken door panel, couple of broken vents and a few other issues that need attention. The exterior had some of the worst paint I've ever seen on a Volvo. I used my quarantine time to wrap it in a color shift gloss metallic blue/green vinyl from Vvivid. First time ever attempting to wrap a car, so I'm pretty damn happy with the results.
  31. 4 points
  32. 4 points
    I haven't updated this much since I've just been driving and enjoying the car. (this section of road is prettymuch closed to traffic due to a bridge repair but I have to use it to get to my house so it's been nice and abandoned lately ) I've been daily driving it all summer and it has been a champ. Just rolled over 262k miles. The 18" wheels are definitely the best looking size for these cars, but due to some road construction on my daily commute, I am going to throw the 17" comets back on for the rest of the season before winter. I pulled it in the shop to catch up on some pesky little things that have been stacking up. I'll post about them as I go, but here's the list: -Install 3" IPD downpipe to replace the old EST piece. -replace o2 sensors -rebuild oil cooler lines and ATF cooler lines -Swap out complete ABS unit (all sensors good, and computer has been rebuilt/replaces multiple times, but still have ABS/TCS light -Re-lube brake calipers and adjust e-brake -Re-work better mounts for IPD skid-plate. Rubber expansion plugs no longer holding well. -Check over suspension and replace any parts if necessary (I think rear outer toe rods from Yother are wearing out). -Re-attach tailgate interior panels -Right front window motor getting weak -etc? The first thing I am working on is the exhaust. I got this done over the weekend. The new downpipe is evidently an early (possibly the first) IPD 3" downpipe for AWD P80s and was built by CJ Yother. I bought it from "Saffron-R" over on Swedespeed over a year ago because my old one was rattling. I only got the front section, so I used a tapered reducer to adapt it to the 2.5" "rest of the exhaust". I haven't started the car yet but I anticipate a deeper sound and slightly better flow. Should be fun. I will be making an ad for the old EST downpipe soon. And installed on the car. I am still waiting for the new 02 sensors to show up. The front one won't come out of the old downpipe, and the rear sensor at some point got tangled up in the prop shaft and the wires got shredded. I guess that would explain why the CEL wouldn't go away. I've got this nice 90 deg o2 spacer on the new pipe in hopes to avoid the CEL due to lack of cat.
  33. 4 points
  34. 3 points
  35. 3 points
    Got it off the jack stands yesterday, gave it a quick wash - it looks pretty good overall. I want to drive it for a couple weeks before I pull the drivetrain & finish the undercarriage repairs.
  36. 3 points
    The red car had been sitting in a garage for the last five years. I did get it cleaned up, but I am chasing down vacuum leaks.
  37. 3 points
  38. 3 points
    ...and just like that the problem is solved! Of course it was the ballad of the bad ground connection. The ground rail in front of the battery wasn't really optimal design and one of the connections is for the coil and the impedance was up to 34k ohms. Also, I read elsewhere about swapping the wires for the crank sensor so I did that as well. I swapped the wires for the crank sensor first and I noticed that the injectors would pulse for a moment and then cut out but then after about 2 seconds would cut in again and fire for a while and cut out again and cycle like this. Once I saw this I realised I had a new issue with the spark and threw a bunch of stuff at it and only then thought about the ground, which turned out to be the problem. With that fixed the car started right up and actually ran a lot better than the 1st time I got it running as it was barely responding to the throttle and occasionally running rough. now it starts and idles straight away and throttle response is as it should be. I suspect with the exhaust on and the O2 sensors it will be running great. Plan after the exhaust is to put the plates on and get the car inspected then a tune from vast to take advantage of the 16t. exciting times ahead.
  39. 3 points
    Got the HRE 535's on. Need to drive it and get the suspension to settle. Also need to go beat on it since I have a track day on the 12th.
  40. 3 points
    20% front. 15% back, Ceramic Plus. Definitely felt different driving a tinted car for once since none of mine are. Now I need to clear up the yellowing ABS plastics.
  41. 3 points
    Got some parts back from manufacturing I designed...
  42. 3 points
    Swapped out the very tattered turbo blanket with an updated version and got a new IWG that has a pivot to it. Turbo smart Gen V adds a pivot joint. I think it builds boost better now, the angle the old IWG rod had was scoring the brass seal on the bottom and seemed to be an issue. Actuation is much better now as well.
  43. 3 points
  44. 3 points
    I use 6.8, if you're using the latest free/trial version you may need to either source the 6.8 one or get your black hat on if you know what i mean.
  45. 3 points
    The wing is nuts! Looks awesome, but just to OTT for me. I wasn't planning on doing the "iCSONONOVE" or the "b", but I'm going to do the door lettering if I can get it produced for a resonable cost in a matching red. did a paper mock up of the lettering also made lexan headlamp covers - I hadn't noticed it at first, but the original version had them Cut from the basic template, then heated and creased the panels (clamped in a vice) for each side. some trimming required after the fact of course four little "L" brackets will retain each panel. Took some small conduit brackets I had laying around & bent them into the required "L", added a M4 rivnut, and primed/painted. ...and chopped an inch of so off the 960 spoiler chin I had melded into the fibreglass version
  46. 3 points
    none of your fucking business. post some pics of your new R. or else.
  47. 3 points
    Eibach pro kit and Bilstein HDs all round.
  48. 3 points
    same boat i drive mine once, fall back in love... then spend the next two days planning to purchase shit etc etc. then dont.
  49. 3 points
    I got the relays wired, and the two connectors to allow it to be unplugged & removed as a unit 6 pin Sumitomo TS 090 for the signal wires & 6 pin JPT for the power/ground feeds Have to figure out where some of the wires need to go that aren't part of the ECU "E" & EMS C201 connectors. Tomorrow I'll get the other relay box that lives in the spare well that feeds the starter & the Bay fan circuits wired. Need to do the same & have it removable with about 2' of harness coming off it. Much easier to do this part at my dining table than squatting in the freezing garage Worked on the spare well area relay box. Right now, it's for the starter relay & bay fan circuit. I wired 2 of the spare fuses to constant (30) and the other two to switched (15) for future use. Constant (30) feed for the starter relay & two of the spares. 2pole connector is for the starter feed. Took me forever to decide what type of connector to use, kept vacilating between design types. These are Sumitomo 6.3mm series, somewhat beefier construction than standard old school Yakazi terminals. Going to use Yazaki & Sumitomo 060 terminals & housings for the EMS connections to wiring to ECU "E" & C201 connections. left the spare relays switched power & output/ ground lines out, since I don't know just yet what they will be controlling Diodes inside the insulated strips for ground & switched power, to prevent backfeeding in the bay fan / timer circuitry. Use part of a zip tie to keep the diode connections rigid. About 30 wires left to connect to their appropriate circuits. I've done all I can of the wiring out of the car, time to go back out in the cold garage EDIT: forgot to note that in figuring out the relay wiring, Honda uses a later convention for the (mostly) Panasonic(?) style relays they use - terminals are numbered 1-5, instead of the older 30, 87, 87a, 86, 85 that I am more used to with Volvo schematics. I have been using the following conversion: 1= 30 2=87 3=85 4=86 (4=87a 5=85 on their 5pole diagrams, which is annoying) based on my read of the Honda schematics. The relays they depict don't seem to utilize the diode I am used to seeing between 3-4 to prevent backfeeds. Most all the (Volvo supplied) relays I use are the standard cube with the diode in place. As such, it is essential to make sure the ground side of the circuit is always connected to 85, since the diode is set to prevent current passing from 85 through the coil winding to 86. I have noticed some of the Honda-swap schematics wire their relays with 85 as the switched current, and 86 as the ground leg so I have to be careful when following these to switch mine to 85. plastic-welding the duct support - outside - the vapors really smells bad I have about 3" depth at the bottom corner in the well primed and painted the bracket EPDM hose I bought from McMasterCarr years ago Hose will go through the inner fender gap to the gas tank side opening & will attach up top gap (parts car) that the hose has to push through Fan PWM controller finished duct plate - lips on the left & bottom to clip it in place. top of plate tucks under vacuum cannister support bracket
  50. 3 points
    Thank you. I haven't had bad weather to really check it out yet. The kinds of driving where the AWD shone was on the Parkway I commute on - it's 2 lane greenway divided, and floods really badly on the edge of the fast lane, perfect conditions for telling if the AWD is doing it's job. In dry driving, it really makes a difference in higher speed ramp driving & long sweeping uphills where you can feel the rear pushing in a good way. I'm really happy with it. Annoying stuff is the software - I haven't got really agressive with it & you do have to remember to turn off the DSTC or you just get front wheel spin. Since I'm relying on Hilton for tuning, I really doubt I will ever go beyond the K16, but you never know.... The X1/9 will be fun, since it's gonna be around 220WHP in a chassis that weighs maybe 2000lbs :) The funky business with that is I have to raise & lower the car onto the drivetrain, no other way to install it.