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Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/05/2019 in Posts

  1. 7 points
    Wagon looking good down at Carlisle
  2. 7 points
  3. 6 points
    Hi all, OG T5power aka Goldmember here, back again. Got out of my 2013 S60 T5 AWD and my 2006 Lexus LS430, and bought a 2018 S90 T6 Inscription in late June. I also had it Polestar Optimised. This is my favorite vehicle I have ever owned, and is well worth the upgrade over the S60 I had. I added a V90 R-Design lower valance, R-Design grille, HEICO SPORTIV Springs & Block spacers, H&R 20mm spacers, those were needed to add the freshly-powdercoated 20" Cratus wheels I had done. a few other minor things like tint, debadged partially, and blacking out the window trim. Enjoy! Regards, -Corey
  4. 6 points
  5. 6 points
  6. 6 points
    5.5 years of progress between these two pictures.
  7. 6 points
    2014 XC90 - 71k miles - 1 owner and dealer maintained and in great shape - every single option possible (sovereign hide leather in CHESTNUT, 19's, wood wheel, blah blah) Selling our 2013 GLI and this is taking over for my wife. I wanted a 17+ XC90 R-Design T5 but needed something I wouldnt have a monthly payment with for now
  8. 6 points
    Worked on the heat shield / trunk floor framing today. Started with this heat shield from the S40 AWD cut & folded to fit the opening, set upside-down here to use the opening to form the edges. Used the mallet to flatten the dimpled flanges, then pressed them bewtween two flats in the vice after this Had to mull over what to do about the raised area - I decided to make a aluminum square tube frame to contain it, upon which the stainless steel floor pan will be attached. air gap between the shield and panel two sections will be cut & welded as one The excess from the shield should be sufficient to make a panel between the exhaust bay & engine bay Whilst I was on a heatshield kick I cut the Honda manifold shield to fit the header cut edge was folded in on itself to keep the two- layer integrity Have to weld tabs back on the manifold flange, and one by the collector to support it
  9. 5 points
  10. 5 points
    System now fully functional with CAN inputs for brake, throttle position, steering angle, reverse lock out, rpm, speed. Only missing parking brake signal, haven't found that one yet. This means I can now leave it in any Lock mode setting & not have axle bind when low speed tight cornering or parking - feels really good! Thanks to VanDerVeer Engineering - he is the one who was willing to work with me to get the Volvo CAN data inputs working with his setup
  11. 5 points
    I just got the 850 back Saturday, drove it back to Austin. Tune needs some work but its got a new engine, dash, PDR, headliner, paint job, tires, starter, fuel pump, and master slave cylinder for the M56.
  12. 5 points
  13. 5 points
    Wrapped up the nose for right now - and moved on to the mechanical work needed to get it running. Dropped the subframe, swapped the oil pan, tack welded the replacemnt subframe section & took the car out for a drive for the first time in 3 monnths! replacement, and new brake line I had to fabricate to replace the one crushed Also painted/dyed the canvas targa panel
  14. 5 points
  15. 5 points
    Quarantine boredom.
  16. 5 points
    All done painting and finally driving it.
  17. 5 points
  18. 5 points
    My Red car got hit for like the 5th time since I've had it (NONE OF THEM MY FAULT) and i just got tired of sinking money into a body that wasn't straight, among other issues I just didn't have the will to fix. It had so many things wrong with it despite everything I did and other than it being stupid fast it was somewhat annoying to drive. I haven't done a photo shoot yet, but everything that was wrong with my red car is right with this car. It's so much nicer to drive. This is my plan! Except with the koni yellows I have. At this point I think lowering springs are too much of a trade off, especially since I don't even track my car. Are you happy with that setup considering you do autox and stuff?
  19. 5 points
    bought a john deere z540R this am. 60" zero turn... 2 acres in 40mins lol maybe less ITS AN 'R' guys! tractorspeed.com
  20. 4 points
    Getting groceries. Finally lowered it.
  21. 4 points
    Front suspension woes - car handles like crap. Reworked the sway bar mounts and end links new control arms and bushings cut off the water pipe tunnel cover to inspect level of damage to pipes made new adaptor plates to fit C30 rear sway bare endlinks to the front - much higher degree of misalignment without binding than the old V70 AWD rear end links used previously MFactory 4.00:1 R&P will go in when I drop the drivetrain to do the HG Finally got the car back from the bodyshop - pouring rain, but it's gonna be like this for days & I just want it home Happy with the nose, the lines where I had to merge the planes came out OK They did have to redo some of my work on top spoiler (modified S40 rear bumper cap)... Started putting the nose back together, now that the suspension /steering work is resolved. Got the 760 sway bar back in with the C30 end links, and SuperPro bushings (SPF1025-23K) Drilled the strut towers for the Ford mounts Got a K20Z3 (RBC-1) head - better flow than the RBB I have now. It is all nicely cleaned, decked & valve seats recut. Keeping the TSX cams & RBC gear limited to 40ยบ. I'll swap it out when I drop the drivetrain to deal with the currently leaking HG, and install the 4:00 R&P. Car went back to the bodyshop this week to fix a few small things that just weren't right. All good now. Worked on the tape stripes and decals whilst the temps are still in the 60's - I cut the decals from 3M 1080 film - easier to deal with than old school vinyl for sure S40 rear bumper cover worked great for the spoiler Used a 3mm gold strip to even out the (hand) cut edge
  22. 4 points
    I guess this technically fits here since we did purchase him lol. Picked up our 8wk old 5.5lb Corgi on the way back from Savannah Sunday. VS, meet Flapjack
  23. 4 points
  24. 4 points
    Im back! Didnt last a year without a Volvo. Picked up a new family hauler. Nice car but headlights needed sanded bad.
  25. 4 points
    Still going strong after 10+ years of ownership.
  26. 4 points
    Reminds me of that scene in three stooges when they were pretending to be plumbers in that mansion.
  27. 4 points
    I'm such a ricer.
  28. 4 points
    Thanks for the insight Hussein. I am currently using a 12AN drain from the turbo to the oil pan. Its works perfectly... but however Definetly won't work with the AG there like you said. I have a RNC prepped block so I am going to drill out and tap the RNC return since I need to replace my RN oil pan that has the drain bung welded on (hits the AG). Im going to install a 1/2NPT to 12AN and try to 45 or 90 off my turbo. For the DP it looks like a 90, 45, 90. The only have a left side exit exhaust and plan on keeping it that way, so won;t have any problems with heat around the surge tank (have it mounted in the same location you had yours). Pushing along... Made some homemade poly bushings for the diff cover since they are NLA: Got the rear subframe brackets I designed welded in & the VC mount.
  29. 4 points
    3M vinyl lettering finally came in yesterday , and it was a sunny warm day (for a change), so I got the lettering installed. Went easier than I was expecting - has a nice firm transfer sheet that keeps the lettering positioned 3M 'Dark Red' scotchcal film. Matches the Volvo red reasonably well I'm happy
  30. 4 points
    Waiting for color samples for the "icsunonove" lettering. Ordered another sticker I feel is appropriate now:
  31. 4 points
    Thanks! Just finished up the hood today. So that completes the wrap job finally.
  32. 4 points
    Dropped in a wooden steering wheel from a C70 (I think) over the weekend. Was straightforward thanks to Robert DIY's video. Now I just need a wooden shift knob...anyone? Or, any info on converting a S40 shift knob to work in a P80?
  33. 4 points
    Been doing a little bit of work here and there on the E46 330i. I was getting it ready for the local BMW CCA AutoX and the occasional HPDE but who knows how this season will go now. H&R race springs Koni Actives (came on the car, not fan. Not enough travel for the H&R's. Looking at ST XTA coilovers.) E46 M3 front sway ECS Tuning rear sway bar Turner Camber front plates Godspeed rear camber arms Ultra Racing front strut brace Garagistic rear strut brace Garagistic stainless brakes lines ATE Amber fluid EBC Yellow Stuff brake pads (damaged box dirt cheap ๐Ÿ™‚) Corbeau FX1 Pro seat DS1's with Federal RS-RR's Also did a tune up. Coils, Plugs, hot air intake (factory box was cracked / broken), fuel filter, valve cover gasket, diff fluid and transmission fluid. Also might throw on the mechanical fan delete I have sitting in the garage. Still need to install the Bimmerbrake headers. And at some point do the manual swap (picked that up for $300 ๐Ÿ˜). It came with some rice-tastic headlights and taillights swapped them back to stock.
  34. 4 points
    Bought a pretty beat up black 850 R. The interior, was grungy, has a broken door panel, couple of broken vents and a few other issues that need attention. The exterior had some of the worst paint I've ever seen on a Volvo. I used my quarantine time to wrap it in a color shift gloss metallic blue/green vinyl from Vvivid. First time ever attempting to wrap a car, so I'm pretty damn happy with the results.
  35. 4 points
  36. 3 points
    Hello guuuuuuuuuuuuys ! I'm baaaaaaaaaaaack ! :) Sorry for the long absence, for the 4 years me and a friend of mine had put together up a small VOLVO repair shop here in Romania, which in time grew bigger and bigger (we now have 8 lifts). Unfortunately I had to leave from the business and from the tuning scene as a little girl appeared in our lives :) But she's 2 years now and I'm starting to have more free time, and I'm getting back to my old love, my T5 S70. 3 years ago a tree fell over the top and bent it like hell. She's been parked in the same place and never moved since :( It's in a repair shop now for making her straight again, and I'll be off installing the new GT3071 that's been waiting for 4 years on the shelf. Hope you're all well and staying safe from the new COVID. Glad to be back !
  37. 3 points
    Car is running really well in locked 4WD mode
  38. 3 points
    I think the issue has been resolved. Right after converting to full time 4WD I think I was hitting oil pressure cut which was making it seem like I was hitting limiter so i was never getting complete pulls. The car absolutely pulls like an animal now in 2nd with it locked 4WD. 1st still spins but 2nd is insane. I still think the viscous coupler was monkeyed as it doesn't slam limiter in 2nd now. Just pulls with full traction. Next Ill try the known working VC once it arrives.
  39. 3 points
  40. 3 points
    I can't blame you for getting side-tracked by the new truck - that LX570 looks really cool, those are super nice. My buddy picked up a J200 Land Cruiser (I forget which year) a little ways back and it's a really impressive vehicle. Yeah, I was really surprised by how much it helped out. Yeah, I'm running the 99 transmission mount on with the bracket Hussein made. Thanks! Yeah, I've been really impressed with the M12 impact so far. I use it for just about anything on the car I can. To pick up where I left off on my last post, I replaced the OEM battery cables with some upgraded cables I made myself - what I did is not very different than the "Big 3" upgrade described in this write-up. Most of you probably know that the stock cables are notorious for voltage drop as they age, especially on the 99/00 models. While I never experienced any voltage drop issues on this car, with a stereo system upgrade in the future, it was a good time to upgrade. To start, I removed the stock cables from the factory loom, which was the most tedious part of the whole process, and used them as templates to order new bulk cable and battery terminals from KnuKonceptz. I used 1/0 AWG Kolossus Flex for the main alternator/starter/battery cables, 4 AWG cable for the B+ cable to the main fusebox, and 8 AWG for the ground straps on the cylinder head. Given the stock alternator is rated at 125 amps, I used a reference chart from Crutchfield to verify the wire size for each new cable would meet/exceed the ampacity of the stock cables. The new alternator/starter/battery cables basically follow the stock routing, but are outside of the main engine harness - while the Kolossus Flex cable is flexible enough to follow the stock routing, unfortunately there was not enough room in the stock plastic housing for the new cables to fit. The cables are terminated with crimped-on ring terminals and adhesive-lined heat shrink boots. I used a pair of Bassik battery terminals - I'm not 100% sold on continuing to use them due to the space constraints caused by the stock airbox, but they were the best available choice in terms on physical size and still offering a variety of set screws to work with the ring terminals on the cables. I may try a pair of top-post "mil-spec" terminal from Napa at some point in the future. The 4 AWG wire fit fit neatly into the stock rubber boot and loom at the main fusebox. Form a 90* bend in the ring terminal inside the fusebox allowed it to join right up to the stock terminal post and keep everything clean/stock-looking. I replaced the 2 braided ground straps that run from the cam cover to the chassis with 8 AWG. And last but not least, I ran a length of 1/0 AWG from the battery to the truck to supply power a stereo amplifier and AC power inverter. The 1/0 fits through the drivers side accessory grommet, but just barely. I wanted to keep the "wiring train" rolling, so I ran all the wiring for my AEM WBO2 and boost gauges. During the engine swap last year, I had a friend add a bung to the stock downpipe. I am planning on adding a 3" downpipe in the near future, but it doesn't hurt to keep an eye on the AFRs in the meantime. Since there wasn't room in the accessory pass-through, I ran the WB wires through the firewall grommet on the drivers side of the car, then through an open spot on the fusebox to get behind/underneath the dashboard. The boost gauge and oil pressure gauge wiring fits neatly through the accessory pass-through with the stereo power cable. I'm using the previous-gen AEM UEGO, which utilizes a Bosch LSU 4.2 sensor. The current gen uses the newer Bosch LSU 4.9 sensor, and is much faster/more accurate. Conveniently, the LSU 4.2 sensor is the same as the stock front O2 sensor, and the plugs are even identical: This means I can quickly swap sensors between the ECU and the AEM gauge to troubleshoot if I suspect there's an issue with one of them. I made a sub-harness that connects to the stock accessory connector to supply power to all 3 A-pillar gauges (WBO2, boost, and future oil pressure): I replaced the stock accessory connector with a 6 pin weatherpack connector, then ran my relay so that everything is ignition-switched while ensuring there was adequate power supply (10 amps for WB02, <1 amp each for the other gauges). Each gauge plugs into one of the 2-pin weatherpack connectors, and allows me to easily remove one or all the gauges if needed. The junctions are properly parallel-spliced and heat-shrunk. I don't use solder for anything on a car - crimped joints are much more tolerant of the vibration that a car generates and will be more reliable in the long run. Using the proper crimp tool, weatherpack terminals are inexpensive, reliable and easy to terminate: You can save yourself the trouble and buy a pre-made harness from @JVC that plugs right into the stock accessory connector. I installed mine a few days before he put the F/S ad up, otherwise I would've bought one. One day this summer, I ran some errands, went back into my apartment, then came back out to finish unloading the car and saw this mess The piece of heater hose I used to delete the PCV banjo bolt system had failed and was leaking coolant. I pulled it apart, and went to install the stock hose/banjo bolt assembly and ran into a small snag: I'm running an 04 engine, but used the 00 thermostat housing so I can replace the thermostat without needing to remove the whole housing. As it turns out, the 04 PCV coolant hose needed to be trimmed to fit on the 00 housing. Once the hose was cut and the orientation adjusted, it was an easy install. Since I had previously deleted/blocked off the banjo bolt, I took the opportunity to install the updated banjo bolt with the internal check valve, PN 31325709. While I was in there, I replaced the thermostat and put a new o-ring on, and replaced the Reinz thermostat housing gasket with an OEM one. The Reinz gasket had slowly leaked ever since I installed it, so I'm glad that leak is gone. There's factory TSB that advises using 2 gaskets in that location to prevent leaks, but mine has been okay so far. I've got spare gaskets sitting on the shelf if problems arise. While I had the intake manifold off and everything torn apart, I replaced the worn-out vacuum check valves with new OEM valves (PN: 1275226 - thanks @B Mac) and most of the rubber vacuum lines with new silicone lines from FlexTech. The lines I replaced are the TCV lines, CBV line, and EVAP purge valve line. It may not seem like much, but I had been ignoring the vacuum lines since I swapped this engine into the car in January 2019 and I'm really glad I got that sorted out. Here's the stock P80 ME7 vacuum line diagram for reference: I used constant-tension clamps from Bel-Metric to keep each hose securely in place - no more messing around with zip ties to hold those lines on. It also gives the aftermarket lines a nice OEM+ appearance that I appreciate. I used several sizes of clamp based on the various OD sizes of the different hoses. I did not buy the CTC pliers, instead I used a pair of needle-nose vice grips. The vice grips made it easy to lock the clamp fully open, slide it into place, then slowly release the clamp in the orientation I wanted. Each clamp was placed so that future access with the needle-nose vice grips will be as easy as possible. Up next will be the story of my injector woes
  41. 3 points
    I need to document the modifications made to the car and drivetrain before I forget them. Below is everything that has been done to the chassis, engine, transmission, brakes, turbo, etc.: Engine: B5244T3 LPT Block from a '02 S60, Shimmed cylinders, B&B, Ported and Polished, matched Intake and Exhaust Mani ports ENEM Sport Cams CXRacing Forged H-Beam Rods Custom Wesco Pistons with 25mm wrist pins APR Head bolts MPRE Oil Gate Evan's Waterless Coolant converted "Green" 450cc Injectors installed, 650cc Injectors ready for fuel pump upgrade Snabb Intake spacer and Exhaust gasket Samco Silicone Hoses IPD Upper Engine Stabilizer New Bosch Starter XMODEX Rebuilt Throttle Body (Contact-less Position Sensor) Turbo: 20T Turbo with 11 Blade Impeller and 11 Blade Compressor, balanced Intake: Snabb Intake pipe Custom designed 3" Core Intercooler. Custom Pipe routing with Methanol Injection. K&N Intake Mini Filter and Housing Exhaust: Japanafold Exhaust Manifold (from a 2004 S60R) EuroSport Tuning Downpipe EuroSport Tuning Cat Back Dual outlet full Exhaust Ceramic Coating (black with silver tips) New O2 Sensors with spacers. Transmission: M66 from a 04 S60 AWD, refreshed with new bearings, seals and coupler Quaife LSD Kalmar Union Single Mass Flywheel AP Racing Clutch P2 V70R Slave Clutch Suspension: Ohlins 8-way adjustable shocks (front) TME Spring set for Ohlins springs (front and rear) Rear Ohlins shocks need repair TME Strut Tower Brace IPD Swaybar, Front IPD HD Swaybar Links Chassis: New Heater Core and lines Fully replaced rear drive shaft with new center carrier bearing New fog lights GlowShift Oil Pressure Gauge Cooling Mist Methanol Gauge Armrest, Shift boot, Steering Wheel and e-brake boot all custom made to match seats Manual Ball Shifter with Shift pattern and Button IPD Mesh Black Gille 70 Series (no longer available from IPD) WRX-STI Front Lip Sound deadening installed under all panels and rear hatch. Wheels & Tires: Ronal R39 "Ferris" 18x8, powder coated Dark Grey with paint to match center caps (currently only have 1) Bridgestone Potenza Pole Position XL 235/40R-18 tires Brakes: Brembo/IPD Big Brake Kit, all fresh rubber, powder coated Bright Yellow. 330mm High Carbon Discs front Stainless Steel Brake Lines front and rear Porterfield R1-4 Carbon/Kevlar street compound pads I'm sure there's more and I'll add it as I remember. It seems like a lot, but also not that much...
  42. 3 points
    20% front. 15% back, Ceramic Plus. Definitely felt different driving a tinted car for once since none of mine are. Now I need to clear up the yellowing ABS plastics.
  43. 3 points
    Swapped out the very tattered turbo blanket with an updated version and got a new IWG that has a pivot to it. Turbo smart Gen V adds a pivot joint. I think it builds boost better now, the angle the old IWG rod had was scoring the brass seal on the bottom and seemed to be an issue. Actuation is much better now as well.
  44. 3 points
    Hutchinson (OES) hydraulic mount + OEM front mount Couple new vacuum check valves (PN 1275226, thanks @B Mac) and a whole bunch of black silicone vacuum line to replace all the vacuum lines in my engine bay. I still need to order a bunch of spring clamps, but I'm waiting to order those until I can measure the OD of each size silicone line. A SPDT relay, a few Weatherpack connectors, some spools of wire, and Weatherpack crimper & pin removal tool. Plus a couple of these stupid fuel line/fuel rail connectors and o-rings, a new bushing and bearing for my VC, and rear wheel bearing snap rings from Tasca What kind of laminate did you buy? I'm not in flooring, but I have some experience with different products from work (Architect)
  45. 3 points
    It was so much friggin work. Pressing out / burning out all of the bushings and then pressing in all of the new ones was an insane amount of work... not to mention cleaning up the whole thing and replacing everything. Should be worth it though, every single part is going to be brand new and replaced. More updates. Going with a true LSD in the rear. None of the stock G80 locker crap that breaks.
  46. 3 points
    Reupholstered the sagging and flapping headliner in the first week of covid-19 self isolation... It turned out nearly perfect, except that I made a cut in the wrong spot on the sunroof visor, bit of a brain fart but an easy fix for when I get to it! Also replaced the oil cooler hoses to help deal with a persistent oil leak, which I believe was from when I was pulling the engine and forgot to unhook the oil cooler hose from the rad, and it stretched out while hoisting up the engine๐Ÿ˜… Did a full detail last week, and then drove in the rain so didn't bother taking pics of the car ๐Ÿ˜’
  47. 3 points
    Still a lot going on with the build. This year we are going AWD!!! I have fully switched over to YouTube now as my main platform. Below are some of my latest videos. Checkout the full channel here : https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCXbU3yYxswA5F4Ep_WyXelw
  48. 3 points
    Eibach pro kit and Bilstein HDs all round.
  49. 3 points
    Gonna blind the world behind me when I reverse lmao.
  50. 3 points
    It's really cool. She has been waiting to get an XC90 in June for a few years, but was unsure with three kids and looking at other brands that offered the second row captain seats. Volvo announced they were doing it and she was so excited. If I moved on the from the wagon, I would be looking for the same XC90 you are. Anyways. Back on topic. I still have the e30. It's stripped down for the winter - patching rust holes, reinstalling and refreshing the whole AC system, rebuilding the rear subframe, all new brake lines, calipers, rotors, and pads, sound deadening the interior, wheel bearings, etc. When Katerhine gets her XC90 in June, I'll be adding another fun car to the garage (not quite sure what yet).