BEFORE YOU POST, CLICK HERE





Ok lets try to help out the new guys. Help me compose a list of frequently asked questions. Like what tire size fits,turbo part #s,max boost.........

C70 Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c3/gshynedm/...0yrchanges.html

MOTOR

stage zero "tuning" list and if ur car lacks performance...

Full stage 0 list:

Plugs
cap/rotor
oil/transflush
filter (oil)
hoses (the little vac lines)
samco hose kit
02 sensors
fuel pumps
clean injectors
clean IC/IC plumbing
Air filter
plug wires

Sound good but to expensive..

Don't forget that a lot of people are on a budget. A lot of money has gone in to the car itself and Mr. Powerupgrade is knocking on the door.

If to choose from a ECU upgrade or a Stage 0 the conclusion is obvious..
Then after the ECU upgrade there is what we could call a Stage 1.1 which means double posts on all the known forums why the boost doesn't work, why the car is hesitating, why the rods go S( ), etc, etc..

I think the best advice for a stage 0 is to start with a good optical inspection, this doesn't cost you a penny. While checking parts specially near hoses make sure to clean the surroundings from residues. This will also give faster indication of leaks at a later point. You know is wasn't smudgy and greasy the last time you checked..

Clean the airfilter. You can see for yourself if dust and rubbish is in there.
For the oil and filter, new is better of course but seldom a cause for problems. Just make a fixed shedule for this either mileage based or time based. When starting with tuning a fresh starting point is the way to go. After that keep it in a fresh state.

For the boost part check the STOCK hoses for small cracks near the clamps and for oil softening because at these spots the hoses often show small leaks and mostly near the clamp screw.*
Check the rubber T connection for the idle valve at the hose connected to the TB. A known spot for cracks. Just squeeze the hose and cracks will show.*
At this point there really is no need for Samco stuff but when replacing think Samco, stock hoses can do 1.4 bar easy. (trust me). There's no Samco stuff available for the cold (Early) setup so you'll have to fabricate some stuff yourself. For the TB a connection can be welded to the IC pipe and a separate small diameter Samco hose can be used for the idle valve.
For vacuum, all hoses inclusing the x-mas tree at the TB and the 90 degree crank vent knee at the end of the manifold.* Follow all the vacuum lines specially where they run around the engine*,
Check the crank vent hoses at the inlet before the turbo. A very wise thing would be to check the turbine for cracks between the wastegate and the turbine wheel but this is difficult to see from the outside. Most boost problems with 15G's can be found in this area. While looking at the turbo also check the vacuum connection to the compressor housing.* Also make sure that the intake system doesn't pull false air. The turbo boost solenoid is bleeding to the intake between MAF and turbo, make sure the connection is in place. Check if all the blind plugs in the system are in place.
Check the 150/40 wastegate actuator. Check again.. This "bike pump" is known for being weak in a stock setup. Even with a boost raising chip it is better to set it a bit more tight to make sure it isn't operating as a plasma cutter. Before ordering a stronger actuator visually check the turbine for cracks, also on the inside. An actuator will cost you half a turbo.

Why the * ?, These spots are difficult to reach and sometimes difficult to see if there are cracks. Don't be lazy. Don't forget that you are working with pressure so the hoses will expand while under pressure. Check and double check to make 100% sure the parts are OK.

After that check the ignition parts. If a car isn't running smooth and all the hose stuff appears to be OK then there could be something wrong in this area. Rotor and cap are wear parts. Often cut out under load is indication that something is wrong. Cables, check age. If new plugs are installed and the engine behavior is only better for a short while then cables could be a cause. Cables and distributer are overlapping each other in symptoms so sometimes it can be hard to tell where the problem really is. Often cables will function properly for a while after they have been reseated so try to work from one point to the other to rule out the parts one by one. for high mileage cars think about replacing the complete setup ANYWAY.

The plugs.. Huge discussions lots of brands and everybody knows what is best.
A tuned turbo Volvo will run 100% OK on stock Volvo branded plugs for turbo cars. Having a set of fresh Volvo plugs available isn't a bad thing. It will give you a nice "baseline" for comparison and troubleshooting. If all turns out to be OK the more exotic types can be used.

So far no money has been spend. Other things like compression testing will cost a few bucks unless you have connections handy.

Fuel filter, fluids and fluid levels etc. are tune up parts. Keep a shedule and check history of your car. Fuel pump. good enough for 350+ HP if the voltage stays within limits. With high mileage cars think agout replacing.

Try to image the state of your car. Even if you do not want to spend the money on repairs for whatever reason always make sure that the problem is known. One problem might be the cause for other problems. With tuning the weakest links are the first to give.
When the image is clear try to make a shedule of all parts. This way you can spread the costs preventing it to shoot at you all at once. Stick to the shedule no matter what!

In the process of adding parts these weakest links might brake you up.

For the lambda sensors, if the car is running bad due to age or bad maintenance new sensors will go bad in no time. A sort of chicken-egg situation here. Often sensors will burn clean after a short while when the engine is running fresh again unless the car has been running bad for a very long time.

For ECU tuning, Either it works or it doesn't. As a rule of thumb I would say that you can rule out the ECU in 99% of the cases when using maintream tuning. The tuning only causes the weakest links to fail.

MBC's? ...... rod killers and trouble makers IMO.

After tuning and changes always try to check the fuel settings.

ok, one thing to add to the stage 0 things is a new o2 sensor. i just changed my original one (front), and my car runs so much better. i can feel more power, but the biggest thing is that my acceleration characteristics are greatly improved. my accelleration had felt strong, but inconsistent through the powerband. that has drastically improved, along with the added power.

the most important thing about these high mileage cars: stage 0!!!!



---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Mitsubishi TD04HL-19T Volvo part no. 8601693
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Blue Injectors - Volvo part no. 9186060
350 cc White Injectors- Volvo part # 0 280 155 766
Green Injectors- Volvo part# 9202100
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
M56 Clutch part # 271494 $280
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
just ordered the reverse intercooler piping lines from FCP Groton. It was $266 total (not including shipping). They greatly appreciate having the part numbers handy. Although it seems like they should have the fiche to look at anyway.

Here are the part numbers going from turbo to I/C and then from I/C to throttle body.

part # dealer price FCP price description

3517266 $36.66 $23.50 reduction hose (from turbo to alum pipe)
6842334 $80.85 $50.00 aluminum pipe (over engine)
3517268 $66.90 $45.00 hose with 2 bends (I/C in)
6842167 $48.46 $29.50 elbow hose (I/C out)
6842166 $69.04 $43.00 pipe (plastic I think)
6842774 $111.13 $75.00 hose (to throttle body with the extra smaller hose built in)

Of course there are several hose clamps needed as well. I found the fancy T-Clamp style at atpturbo for $3.75 each.

The Volvo parts page printout shows *2* piping options for this routing from the I/C to the throttle body. The second option appears to be one large piece of plastic pipe with those flexible joint things built in. I did not get pricing on that funky looking thing. Though I suppose it would be an option, maybe cheaper? I don't know.

Also, while going over these parts with the guy at FCP there was one part he said that he doesn't usually sell as part of the reverse piping package. I'm thinking that it might be that that piece of hose is common to both routing options and guys usually just reuse the original one. I'm replacing them all as they have gotten soft and are cracking so I ordered it anyway. Its part# 6842167...the I/C out elbow hose. I think its a 45º. Maybe a generic silicon would be less than $29.50. But its way down on the bottom so it won't have much "show" value anyway.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
"Turbo 101 - some info about Garrett hybrid turbos

Disclaimer: All of the following is correct to my knowledge. Please feel free to jump in and correct anything that is wrong or feel free to add anything. This post is pretty long, but hopefully it will help out some newbies that are getting into turbochargers.
There seems to be some confusion about there about what all of the numbers mean when looking at a turbochargers specs. Awhile back, BlueShadow wrote an excellent post on how to read a compressor map. Find that post, read it, and combine it with this one...voila, you'r a guru! (not really)

Garrett makes several "families" of turbochargers that are targeted for different sized engines, HP goals, and drivability characteristics. Crafty tuners, manufacturers, etc, have mixed and matched these components to produce hybrid turbos that can provide the benefits of several turbo families. The possibilities really are endless, but I'm just gonna list some common ones or else this post would be reeeeeeallly long.

Turbocharger families
The T25 family = super fast spooling "small" turbo that makes good low rpm torque, but lacks top end power. This turbocharger is commonly used where throttle response and low rpm torque are desired without much regard to high rpm power.

The T3 family = "intermediate turbo" that spools slower, but has the ability to make substantially more power than the T25 family. This turbocharger has been used on A LOT of production vehicles (Ford, Nissan, Volvo, Saab). They can make impressive power, but were known to be laggy.

The T04 family = "big turbo" that makes huge power, but is very very laggy. Without the beauty of being able to make a hybrid turbo, a T04 would probably not even be an option.

The 3 main components that have the biggest impact on performance are the a/r of the turbine housing, the size (aka trim) of the tubine wheel, and the size (aka trim) of the compressor housing.

Common turbine housing a/r "sizes"
T25: .64 a/r, .86 a/r
T3: .36 a/r, .48 a/r, .63 a/r, .82 a/r
T4: not listed...see why later

In a nutshell, the larger the a/r, the later the power comes. A small a/r gives you a fast spooling turbo but limits top-end power. A large a/r gives you a laggy turbo with big top-end power.

Common T25 turbines:
DSM trim (?? not sure how big it is, but it's quite small)
60 trim (small)
76 trim (medium)

Common T3 turbines:
Stage 1 (small -- most common turbine on junkyard turbos)
Stage 2 (med)
Stage 3 (large -- most common turbine on new T3/T04 hybrids)
Stage 5 (very large)

Common T04 turbines:
I'm not gonna list any because I don't have info on them and the T4 turbines require so much exhaust energy to spin that they are practically unusable in our application unless you want insane lag and have got a motor that will spin to 10k every day.

Common T25 compressors:
I'm not gonna list any. I do have some info on them, but for the most part, a T25 compressor will struggle to stay in its efficiency range on a boosted Honda.

Common T3 compressors:
40 trim (20lb/min -- haha...don't even think about it)
45 trim (21lb/min)
50 trim (30lb/min -- probably one of the most common on junkyard turbos, works well for SOHC and LS engines)
60 trim (34lb/min -- biggest "production" T3 compressor, excellent power on D series/LS)
"Super 60" (36lb/min -- note: this is NOT the "60-1" compressor)

Common T04B compressors:
S trim (37 lb/min)
V trim (48 lb/min)
H trim (49 lb/min)

Common T04E compressors:
40 trim (36 lbs/min)
46 trim (41 lbs/min)
50 trim (47 lbs/min)
54 trim (45 lbs/min -- note that the 54 trim flows less than the 50 trim)
57 trim (49 lbs/min)
60 trim (50 lbs/min)

Common T04S compressors:
60-1 (flows a shitload, never seen a compressor map for it)
62-1 (bigger yet -- I believe this is a T04S compressor...correct this if it is wrong)


Performance (listed in order of increasing performance):
A T25 is a straight T25 turbo --> T25 turbine + T25 compressor
A T28 is a hybrid T25/T3 turbo --> T25 turbine + T3 compressor
A T3 is a straight T3 turbo --> T3 turbine + T3 compressor
A T3/T04B is a T3/T04B hybrid turbo --> T3 turbine + T04B compressor (used in Drag kits)
A T3/T04E is a T3/T04E hybrid turbo --> T3 turbine + T04E compressor (more performance than T3/T04B
A T3/60-1 is a T3/T04S hybrid turbo --> T3 turbine + T04S (60-1) compressor

THANKS to Johann
What Turbo went in which Volvo? .

15G - B5234T 225hk/B5234T5 240hk 1994-1995, The old conic outlet
15G - B5234T 225hk/B5234T5 240hk 1996, straight outlet form turbine.

16T - B5234T4 250hp kom 1996 i 850R man, straight outlet from turbine
16T - B5234T3 240hp 1997-1998 finns i S/V/C70 T5, straight oulet from turbine.
16T - B5234T3 240hp 1999-2000 finns i S/V/C70 T5, angled outlet from turbine.
16T - B5234T3 250hp 2001- alla S60/V70N T5, angled outlet from turbine.

18T - B5234T4 250hp 1997-1998 only S/V70R man FWD/AWD, 275/60 wastegate and straight outletform turbine.
18T - B5234RT 250hp 1999 only V70R AWD, 4-vxl aut, 300/70 wastegate and angled outlet form turbine.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Turbo Upgrades

http://www.pipe-arts.com/

http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant...tegory_Code=GRT

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre.../gt_basics.html


------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------



EricF

Time for intercooler tech 101?

Alright, there are a number of considerations to make when selecting an intercooler design... I'll focus on aspects of design and the various options you have for them, and what variables influence which direction you should go.

1. Intercooler core construction... Essentially two options - Bar and plate, tube and fin. Bar and plate is more expensive to make, is a more efficient heat exchange design, and is what most decent aftermarket designs utilize. Tube and fin is easier to make, less efficient, and what 99% of OEM applications use. Basically this comes down to cost.

2. End tank construction/design... This one is easy, basically plastic vs. aluminum and design is a function of space mainly.

3. Surface area and thickness... There are two main ways to go, large surface area and kinda thin depth, and small surface area but very thick. The large surface area and thin depth generally produces better temperature efficiency, but can create a larger pressure drop, depending on what the end tanks are like. The smaller surface area and larger thickness is basically the other way around.

Now what goes into deciding which of these is best on a given application? Well a large factor is how much surface area is available on the front of the car, which is why all OE Volvo intercoolers have lots of surface area, whereas many other cars' are designed to fit behind the hole in the front air dam, etc. Another perhaps larger concern is the pressure that will be put on the intercooler at speeds, the pressure drop across the intercooler core. This is what determines thickness, mainly, and why the "fmic" intercoolers are usually set very low in front of a car, where there is nothing behind them.

It is my opinion that the front of the 850 is not very conducive to a 240sx / ricey FMIC type design, and to use such a design would be wasting the inherent provisions made by the Volvo engineers to help it work well with an OE-type intercooler. This is also why I will be using a powerstroke intercooler on my 242, and why I would recommend the Atech over a spearco 8x25x3.5 or whatever intercooler on an 850. Moving the A/C condensor or getting one from another car to fit in the airdam or something would be a much better idea IMO

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Volvo trany part numbers
http://www.oconnellusedvolvos.com/Power_Train_Table.html
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
9471535 - 300/70 wastegate
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Body, Rims, Suspension
R-Bumper (Just the bottom, not the plastic top part)
9151251
$350
=====================================================
18'' Pegasus Rims 30647397 $300
=====================================================
This has been brought up before. "I am looking to install 18" rims on my 850. What will fit?" This is what I found searching this forum.
(may have to roll fenders)
225/35/18 with .5 degree negative camber
215/40/18s
225/40/18s
=====================================================
Where to find Shocks and struts
taylorautomotive.com
shox.com
ipdusa.com
eurosporttuning.com
=====================================================

How to replace your struts

http://members.shaw.ca/heeeeee/strut <-- By XtremePsionic
I just changed my OEM struts/shocks/and new mounts to Bilstein-TC last weekend using the URL-instructions above. Yes, you can do it yourself if you have floor-jacks and a full set of metric socket wrenches. You will also need a set of metric allen-wrenches; again, make sure it has every size because Volvo loves to use ones that are not normally included in the set. A visit to Sears will take care of those missing links.

Taking the front struts out was easier than it appears. Compressing the springs fully will enable you to remove the star-shapped retaining nut on top of the strut. The rear shocks are even easier to change, no instructions needed. However, the whole project may still take you up to 4-hours to complete, but as long as you have a full set of wrenches you should be ready to do the job. Make sure you replace all the strut/shock-mounts as well.

http://www.z06vette.com/gallery/data/500/5...steinTC-med.jpg

http://www.z06vette.com/gallery/data/500/5...inished-med.jpg (I also did the brakes)

As for the ride, the Bilsteins do dampen bumps better than the stock parts, but the ride is still firm. I'm happy with the results but my wallet is hurting slightly.

=====================================================

9483932 - "Volvo" emblem (late model)
=====================================================
9178151 - "R" emblem (850/70)

Thanks qshadow325

QUOTE (dust869 @ May 27 2004, 05:34 PM)
Dose any one know what wire is what in 1993 850?


| ITEM | WIRE COLOR |POL| WIRE LOCATION |
| 12V | red |+ |plastic-tube harness |
| STARTER | green/red |+ |located behind the |
| IGNITION |blue/red |relays near firewall |
| ACCESSORY |yellow/purple |+ |under drivers side |
| POWER LOCK |yellow/gray *1 |- |black connector above |
| POWER UNLOCK|green/red *1 |- |hood release |
| PARKING LIGHTS +|white | |by ignition harness *2 |
| HEADLIGHTS |green and grn/wht |+ |underhood fusebox |
| DOOR TRIGGER|yellow/white *3 |- |near hood release |
| TRUNK/HATCH PIN|blue/brown |in park light harness |
| HOOD PIN | yellow/black |- |hood pin switch |
| FCTRY ALARM ARM| | | |
|FCTRY ALRM DISARM|blue/brown *5 |- |harness from door |
| TACHOMETER |blue | |ignition coil |
| BRAKE WIRE |yellow | | |
| HORN TRIGGER |yellow/black *4 |- |steering column |
| WIPERS |yellow and white |+ |wiper switch |
| LF WINDOW UP/DN|blu/grn - green A |window switch or pkp |
| LR WINDOW UP/DN|grn/gry - red/blk | A |at window switch |
| RR WINDOW UP/DN|grn/yel - grn/wht |A |at window switch |


Notes:
*1 also found gray/red and green/tan on some models *2 in a large taped harness with more than one white wire. test to find. *3 do not use the pink/black domelight wire since it is affected by the delay and turns off 60 seconds after the open. *4 horn only works with the key in the accessory or run position. *5 To disarm the factory alarm, must trigger the blue/brown factory alarm disarm wire, and the unlock wire at the same time.


Hope this helps you.

**AnthonyR edit.**
From my own experience butting a clifford Matrix 3.5RS remote start/alarm in my 95 850.
There is a second ignition, that is Blue/yellow. It controls alot of the accessories and ABS/Tracs.

Also on MY95 (I beleive it was the only year) had a 1-wire door lock (green/red) that if ground was cut the doors unlock and the car disarms and when it see's ground again it locks and arms.

You can also find tach in the drivers kick as white/black, as I picked up alot of engine noise in my sound system after trying the coil wire.

-AnthonyR
****

Can you put a MBC on an Me7 Car?

T5 cams versus GLT cams

"Here you ca see the diffrens on GLT and T5 cams.

GLT
Intake:250dr duration 8,45mm lift
Exhaust:252,6dr duration 8,45mm lift

T5
Intake:242dr duration 7,95 lift
Exhaust:243,5dr duration 7,95 lift"

("stolen" from J.R. over at vp-tuning)

ok, one thing to add to the stage 0 things is a new o2 sensor. i just changed my original one (front), and my car runs so much better. i can feel more power, but the biggest thing is that my acceleration characteristics are greatly improved. my accelleration had felt strong, but inconsistent through the powerband. that has drastically improved, along with the added power.

the most important thing about these high mileage cars: stage 0!!!!

Not really unless it goes out or you remove it. If the ECU notices that it's missing/giving a bad signal, it will cut off your boost. Stupid computer..

Hey, tell me..
Most 850's and also classic X70's I see within the Dutch 850 club have already reached 100K miles. A lot of the 850's already past 125K. Specially the 125K mark screams replacement of a lot of the mentioned parts but still a lot of people drive on because they do not want to spend the money. In Europe we also have pretty steep gas prices, road tax and insurance. Good maintenance is the last item on the list. Often people run in to huge expenses when things fail and damage more than necessary. Same goes for the leaking crank seal. How often do you hear people spending more than 300 dollar on a 20 dollar seal change without installing a new clutch pack at the same time. This only to save a few hundred bucks. Often the same car needs it's clutch replaced within a year after the repair so the extra labour alone could pay for the extra investment during the seal change...
It simply works that way with a lot of people. When they see a shrinking money tree they close the hood and walk away..



Did anyone ever post a howto on any forum?
I'm thinking about installing such a pump but I can't find any info on install, type, fitment etc.
Since I hate to work with fuel I wanted to outsource this job..

Johann's not disagreeing with you Doug... And he has a little more experience with these cars than you do

Though Johann, just FYI, Joseph Essaye and I went through a period of time where we got to know the local Volvo dealership parts guys pretty well due to replacing *new* Volvo rubber couplings after blowing them practically into two pieces at high boost a few times. This was mostly at the 18-21 psi level (1.3-1.5 bar), and at the exorbitant dealer prices (like 50-90 USD for a darn rubber coupling), I could have bought myself a Samco kit...

My suggestion there would be if you blow a hose apart under boost, or find two or more with small leaks, then it is time for the samco kit. If you blow one apart, chances are that the next one is not far behind, and if you need to replace more than one elbow, the costs will come near enough to a silicon kit to make it foolish not to upgrade.

I cannot stress how important it is to inspect all these couplings though before heading for higher boost, because chances are that they haven't been replaced, and with 1994-1997 cars (with the heating and cooling, softening due to oil deposits within, etc), I am guessing that failures should be totally expected.


As far as the mods first / stage 0 first debate... I am pretty hypocritical here. Personally, I will do the mods first, and reverse engineer after that to figure out the problem.

However, anyone else should do stage 0 first so I don't have to read their stuff on here that will inevitably result in them finding the leak in the elbow connecting to the TB or something



This is a good thread though... Not sure if it should be pinned, kinda makes it seem like every time there's a decent thread we have to parade it around just to show that those do happen now and then here But I digress...

My reply was more related to the way it was put in the list. More like before doing anything go buy Samco.. In the end it is all about money so a Stage 0 list shouldn't scare people away because it looks "overpriced". I have seen this to many times. People are weird creatures you know..
I have had people at my door asking to look at a small problem. I gave them an advice and part numbers and all urging them to get it fixed, 3 or 5 months later same people ask to help solve a huge and costly problem because they didn't repair the earlier problem causing the huge repair in the first place.

If hoses are cracked or worn Samco could be considered for sure. It is just that these hoses are not available as a kit for the early "cold" systems, Not easy to get for some people and they can be pretty pricey.

When I replaced the late IC setup with the early setup I ordered Volvo parts and yes these things also cost a fortune. One thing I noticed was that the TB/idle valve connection I received looked a lot stronger compared to the ones I have seen on older T5's and T-5R's. I am running higher boost for more than 12K miles now and up to this point the hose is still looking good. Eventually they all crack in the same spot and I do have a spare hose in stock but also for me the next "hose" will be a Samco knee for TB plus a smaller Samco with a welded connection for the idle valve. From what I know the front "S' hose for the early system isn't available. The lower IC knee should be standard pick from the list. Volvo's newer type turbo to IC pipe connection is similar to Samco already (Only grey with a Volvo logo..).

http://www.members.shaw.ca/costall/1000Q/answers-terms.htm

WOW, LOTS OF TERMS PEOPLE SHOULD KNOW !

22 mm

"WHAT DOES THIS n THAT LOOK LIKE?" --> check here.
various turbo related performance parts, someone may check if all links apply to
VOLVO as well:
jpg[/url]

HKS EVC
http://www.hksusa.com/images_products/1914.jpg


Turbo 101 by Exhaust Depot
http://srtforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12011

Boost Controller Installation
MBC
http://import.h8rs.com/DaytonaGTS/W...files/frame.htm
http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.php?showtopic=41380&hl=
EBC
Use the above, and tap your pressure source from the manifold from the throttle body, its a black line!

Waste Gate Actuators

Turbochargers.com
http://www.turbochargers.com/images/tccwga_01.jpg

Forward Motion WGA
http://www.forwardmotioninc.com/htm...os/actuator.jpg

JLM Billet WGA *Modified Forge WGA
http://www.neonparts.net/images/new/srt/billet.jpg

WGA Installation by AGP Turbo
http://srtforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=27363

Turbo Timers
Greddy modified for the SRT-4 *Note you can pick Greddy TT's up from other vendors aswell!
http://store3.yimg.com/I/exhaustdepot_1787_238726

Blitz FATT DCIII
http://www.blitz-na.com/E_FATT_DCIII_Pic.jpg

Blow Off Valves
TXS Type H *Quiet* *video clip* http://www.935motorsports.com/media/txsTypeHwrx.mpeg
http://turboxs.com/type-h_blow_off_valve.htm

TXS Type H-RFL *Real poking Loud* video clip* http://www.935motorsports.com/media/srt4RFL.wmv
http://turboxs.com/BOV%20Type%20H-RFL.htm

Greddy Type S *video clip* http://people.zeelandnet.nl/aagoed/GreddyTypeS.avi
http://www.extrememotorsports.com/g1cat/grtyps-l.jpg

HKS SSQ *Video clip* http://www.935motorsports.com/media/300zSSQV.avi
http://64.49.247.187/ProductImages/hks-ss.jpg

Blitz Super Sound DD *video clip* http://www.935motorsports.com/media/blitzddjza80.mpg
http://www.blitz-na.com/blowoffvalve.html

Tial
http://www.dejontool.com/images/BOV's/Tial.JPG
BOV mounting pipes/intercooler pipes and BOV install kits

ED Hard Pipes *hot and cold side pipes, comes with either Greddy or HKS bov Flange
http://store3.yimg.com/I/exhaustdepot_1789_101648

AGP BOV kit
http://www.agpturbo.com/product_image.php?imageid=11

Modifications for the factory surge valve

AGP Block off Plate for the factory surge valve
http://www.agpturbo.com/customer/pr...9&cat=13&page=1

Mopar "BoV' its just a plate that vents the stock surge valve to the atmosphere
http://www.modernperformance.com/dc...bov_adapter.jpg

AGP EVM *AGP's version of the Mopar "BoV"
http://www.agpturbo.com/customer/pr...5&cat=13&page=1

External BOV Installation by AGP Turbo
http://srtforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28886


Mopar "Bov" installation
http://import.h8rs.com/DaytonaGTS/W... les/frame.htm



Turbo Kits/Turbo Manifolds
AGP Turbo Kit
http://www.agpturbo.com/product_image.php?imageid=5

ATP Manifold
http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/m...egory_Code=VSRT

BDJ's Kit/Manifold *In developement
http://srtforums.com/forums/attachm...tachmentid=5288

Turbocharges.com Turbo Manifold
http://www.turbochargers.com/images/tccmani_01.jpg


Intercoolers
Spearco Direct Fit Intercooler
http://www.modernperformance.com/dc...o_directfit.jpg

Spearco Monster Intercooler
http://www.modernperformance.com/dc...nstercooler.jpg

Exhaust Depot Intercoolers *available as a Power intercooler or stealth, painted with black radiator paint
http://www.exhaustdepot.net/esrfrmoin.html

Griffin *Neonsparts.net
http://www.neonparts.net/images/new/srt/fmic.jpg

Rage intercooler *Neonsparts.net
http://www.neonparts.net/images/new...ntercooler1.jpg

AGP intercooler
http://www.agpturbo.com/product_image.php?imageid=22

TC Intercooler *Modern Perfomance
http://www.modernperformance.com/dc...ntercooler1.jpg

Perrin Intercooler
http://www.mpjperformance.com/Merch...001/NEON011.jpg

Engine Management/Fuel Controllers

Greddy E-Manage *Can be used with or without the Greddy E-01
http://www.greddy.com/products/products.as...uel%20computer)

A'PEXi S-AFC II
http://store1.yimg.com/I/fastwrx_1788_2530

PSi-Fi Power PAQ
http://www.psifimotorsports.com/ECU.htm

Fuel Kits/upgrades

AGP turbo also has a fuel kit, contact them for more info.

Walbro 255 LPH High Flow Fuel Pump
http://www.neonparts.net/images/new/srt/walbro.jpg


Engine

Unorthodox Ultra-Series Pulley *available at other vendors aswell!
http://www.neonparts.net/images/new/engine/street.jpg


Eagle Connecting Rods *available at other vendors aswell!
http://www.modernperformance.com/dc..._eagle_rods.jpg

Crower Titanium Connecting Rods
http://www.neonparts.net/images/new/internal/titan.jpg

Rage Connecting Rods
http://www.neonparts.net/images/new...al/rage-rod.jpg

Forged Pistons
http://www.neonparts.net/images/new/internal/piston.jpg

*Weisco Also has forged pistons

Rage Stainless Steel Valves
http://www.neonparts.net/images/new...nal/valves2.jpg

http://www.stealth316.com/2-3s-compflowmaps.htm scroll down and youll see the list of the turbos and can click, flow map for each one, pretty nice site

Here's some additional info I posted before on the mitsu turbos

http://w1.583.telia.com/~u58304000/turbo3/.../mitsubishi.htm

maybe u guys could pin this..but here is my composite

companies
United States
ipd www.ipdusa.com
est www.eurosporttuning.com
vms www.volvomotorsports.com
bo engstrom www.engstrom.net
vptuning www.vptuning.com
rocketeer www.rocketeeroffroad.com
Japan
www.erst.ne.jp
www.reiz.co.jp/vst/english/index.htm
www.v-racing.net
Sweden
SAM www.samsteffansson.se/samindex.html
tme www.tme.com/e_main.htm
UK
kalmar union www.kalmar-union.com
leda suspensions www.leda.com
Germany
www.mr-tuning.de
i'm sure i'm missing more in the netherlands and germany..but i don't speak either

ECU
ipd/tme
speedtuning usa
rica
bsr
upsolute
Intercooler
EST
A-tech aren't these the same?
Connecting Rods
VMS
Exhaust
ipd/tme
est
supersprint
volvo/remus 9481309, 2.75" SS catback (single muffler I think).
Intake
BMC CDA
est
K&N

Springs
HR
Intrax
Eibach
TME/ipd
EST
Apex
Spax
Vogtland
B&G
Sachs
Shocks
Boge OEM stock
Noviment OEM stock
Bilstein TC stock
Bilstein HD 10-20% stiffer, high pressure gas charged, twintube strut, monotube shock
Koni Sport 10-20% stiffer, low pressure gas charged, rebound adjustable
Ohlins OEM 8-way compression adjustable
KW Coilovers Variant 1 height adjustable
KW Coilovers Variant 2 height adjustable (f&r), rebound adjustable
Leda Coilovers height adjustable, 24-way rebound adjustable, remote compression adjustable optional
Bilstein Coilovers v-racing
Ohlins Coilovers v-racing, 20-way adjustable rebound (I think it's rebound)
Sachs Complete Sport Kit ?
Strut Tower Bars/Strut Brace
volvo oem part# 9204176
ipd
est
omp
momo
Sway Bar Link Ends
v-rading
vst
vms
slater/quickbrick
Sway Bars
ipd 25mm front, 22mm rear, 5th design as of 7/2004

Braided Stainless Steel Brake Lines
ipd
est
stillen
Brake Rotors
zimmerman
powerslot
brembo
Big Brakes
ipd 302 mm
est 302 mm
est/porsche 993 red 4-piston calipers, spacers required
est/kalmar union/ap racing 13" rotors, 4-piston calipers
stillen/brembo 13" rotors 2 piece semi-float, 4-piston black
wilwood front and rear available at rocketeer
cj/porsche/s60r front porsche 993 and rear volvo oem brembo r, both 4-piston calipers and rotors
tar ox
pad
? too many..and since i don't have regular calipers, i never bothered..

Tire Sizes
195-60-15 stock
205-50-60 stock
205-55-60 stock on later models, won't fit properly on early models
205-45-17 stock
215-40-17 ok, but load rating on most tires too low, especially for those in poorly maintained roads
215-45-17 some tires work fine, others are too big

Rims
Fitment of new fwd rims on old rwd www.gilracing.com/index.html
swedespeed lists most volvo oem rims

1993: 850 GLT, 2.4L normally aspirated engine (168 hp, 162 lb-ft)
1994: 850, 2.4L normally aspirated engine (168 hp, 162 lb-ft)
----- 850 Turbo, 2.3L engine, mitsubishi turbocharger TD04HL-15G (222 hp, 221 lb-ft, 9.6psi)
1995: 850, 2.4L normally aspirated engine (168 hp, 162 lb-ft)
----- 850 GLT, 2.4L normally aspirated engine (168 hp, 162 lb-ft), diff in trim and equip.
----- 850 Turbo, 2.3L engine, mitsubishi turbocharger TD04HL-15G (222 hp, 221 lb-ft, 9.6 psi)
----- 850 T5-R, 2.3L engine, mitsubishi turbocharger TD04HL-15G (240 hp, 221 lb-ft, 10.9 psi, limited edition, upgraded suspension and tire/wheel package, different interior, factory external amp a possibility. primary colors are yellow and black, altho a few off colors like green)
1996: same as 1995 except t5-r.
----- 850 Platinum Edition, 2.3L engine, mitsubishi turbocharger TD04HL-15G (222 hp, 221 lb-ft, 9.6 psi), many options standard, only color is pearl white
----- 850 R, 2.3L engine, mitsubishi turbocharger TD04HL-15G (240 hp, 221 lb-ft, 10.9 psi, not limited anymore, similar to t5-r except no yellow. primary colors red, black, white.)
1997: 850, 2.4L normally aspirated engine (168 hp, 162 lb-ft)
----- 850 GLT, 2.4L engine, mitsubishi turbocharger TD04HL-13G (190 hp, 197 lb-ft, low psi like 4 or 5)
----- 850 T5 (aka Turbo), 2.3L engine, mitsubishi turbocharger TD04HL-15G (222 hp, 221 lb-ft, 9.6psi)
----- 850 R, 2.3L engine, mitsubishi turbocharger TD04HL-15G (240 hp, 221 lb-ft, 10.9 psi)



B5254S: 2.4L n/a 168 hp
B5254T: 2.4L lpt 190 hp
B5234T: 2.3L hpt 222 hp
B5234T5: 2.3L hpt 240 hp (owner's manual will give u 237 hp at a different rpm)

1996, 1997: Canada, Europe, and rest of the world...euro-spec 850 R manuals had a mitsubishi turbocharger TD04HL-16T, B5234T4
1997: also saw introduction of awd (rest of the world) and lpt i5 engine

1998: s/v70, 2.4L normally aspirated engine (168 hp, 162 lb-ft)
----- s/v70 glt, v70 xc, v70 awd, 2.4L inline-5, mitsubishi turbocharger TD04HL-13G (190 hp, 199 lb-ft)
----- s/v70 t-5, 2.3L inline-5, mitsubishi turbocharger TD04HL-16T (236 hp, 243 lb-ft, bigger turbo)
----- v70 R awd, 2.3L inline-5, mitsubishi turbocharger TD04HL-16T (236 hp, 228 lb-ft, s70r not in u.s.; euro-spec R manuals had a mitsubishi turbocharger TD04HL-18T)
----- *factory introduced option ohlins 8-way adjustable shocks with remote resevior, $1600
----- c70 coupe, 2.3L inline-5, mitsubishi turbocharger TD04HL-16T (236 hp, 243 lb-ft)
----- c70 convertible, 2.4L inline-5, mitsubishi turbocharger TD04HL-13G (190 hp, 199 lb-ft)
1999: s/v70, same as 1998
----- s/v70 glt, s/v70 awd, v70 xc, 2.4L inline-5, mitsubishi turbocharger TD04HL-13G (190 hp, 199 lb-ft)
----- s/v70 t-5, same as 1998
----- v70 R awd, 2.3L inline-5, mitsubishi turbocharger TD04HL-18T (247 hp, 243 lb-ft)
----- c70 coupe, lpt, 2.4L inline-5, mitsubishi turbocharger TD04HL-13G (190 hp, 199 lb-ft)
----- c70 coupe, hpt, 2.3L inline-5, mitsubishi turbocharger TD04HL-16T (236 hp, 243 lb-ft)
----- c70 convertible, 2.4L inline-5, mitsubishi turbocharger TD04HL-13G (190 hp, 199 lb-ft)
2000: s/v70, 2.4L n/a engine (168hp, torque up from 162 to 170 lb-ft)
----- s/v70 glt, s/v70 awd, v70 xc, 2.4L inline-5, mitsubishi turbocharger TD04HL-13G (190 hp, 199 lb-ft)
----- s70 t-5, same as 1998 (no v70 t5 for model year 2000)
----- v70 R awd, 2.4L inline-5, mitsubishi turbocharger TD04HL-19T (261 hp, 258 lb-ft)
----- c70 coupe, lpt, 2.4L inline-5, mitsubishi turbocharger TD04HL-13G (190 hp, 199 lb-ft)
----- c70 coupe, hpt, 2.3L inline-5, mitsubishi turbocharger TD04HL-16T (236 hp, 243 lb-ft)
----- c70 convertible, lpt, 2.4L inline-5, mitsubishi turbocharger TD04HL-13G (190 hp, 199 lb-ft)
----- c70 convertible, hpt, 2.3L inline-5, mitsubishi turbocharger TD04HL-16T (236 hp, 243 lb-ft)
2001: c70 coupe, hpt, 2.3L inline-5, mitsubishi turbocharger TD04HL-16T (236 hp, 243 lb-ft)
----- c70 convertible, lpt, 2.4L inline-5, mitsubishi turbocharger TD04HL-13G (190 hp, 199 lb-ft)
----- c70 convertible, hpt, 2.3L inline-5, mitsubishi turbocharger TD04HL-16T (236 hp, 243 lb-ft)
2002: c70 coupe, hpt, 2.3L inline-5, mitsubishi turbocharger TD04HL-16T (236 hp, 244 lb-ft)
----- c70 convertible, lpt, 2.4L inline-5, mitsubishi turbocharger TD04HL-13G (190 hp, 199 lb-ft)
----- c70 convertible, hpt, 2.3L inline-5, mitsubishi turbocharger TD04HL-16T (236 hp, 243 lb-ft)
2003, 2004, 2005: c70 convertible, lpt, 2.4L inline-5, ? turbocharger ??????-??? (197 hp, 210 lb-ft)
----- c70 convertible, hpt, 2.3L inline-5, ? turbocharger ??????-??? (242 hp, 243 lb-ft)

1993 854 20 mm front, 19.5 rear
1994 854 20 mm front, 19.5 rear
---- optional sports package 21 mm front, 20 mm rear, extra firm shock absorbers
1994 855 20 mm front, none rear
---- optional sports package 21 mm front, 20 mm rear, novimat shock absorbers
1995 854 20 mm front, 19.5 rear
---- optional sports package 21 mm front, 20 mm rear, extra firm shock absorbers
1995 854 t5-r 21 mm front, 20 mm rear
1995 855 20 mm front, none rear
---- optional sports package 21 mm front, 20.8 mm rear, extra firm shock absorbers
1995 855 t5-r 21 mm front, 20.8 mm rear
1996 854 20 mm front, 19.5 mm rear
---- optional sports package 21 mm front, 20 mm rear, extra firm shock absorbers
1996 854 r 21 mm front, 20 mm rear
1996 855 20 mm front, none rear
1996 855 r 21 mm front, 20.8 mm rear
1997 850 20 mm front, 19.5 mm rear (including r)

update from VADIS:
front sway bar part #s:
9173982 O.Dia 20 mm (early-1996 marked X, 1997 marked 1)
9173983 O.Dia 21 mm (early-1996 marked Y, 1997 marked 2)
9151441 O.Dia 21.5 mm (marked Z)
9173471 O.Dia 21.5 mm (marked A)
somewhere along the line of 850, there were 21.5mm front sway bars.
rear sway bar part #s, don't have diameter:
9191459 (marked M)
9191461 (marked P)
9191462 (marked N)
9191494 (marked V)

1998 s70 20 mm front, 19.5 mm rear
---- option on all models: 21 mm front, 20 mm rear, extra firm shock absorbers
1998 v70 fwd 20 mm front, 19.5 mm rear
1998 v70 awd 20 mm front, none? mm rear
1998 c70 20 mm front, 20 mm rear
1999 s70 fwd 20 mm front, 19.5 mm rear
1999 s70 awd 20 mm front, none? rear
1999 v70 fwd 20 mm front, 19.5 mm rear
1999 v70 awd 20 mm front, none? rear
1999 c70 20 mm front, 20 mm rear
2000 s70 fwd 20 mm front, 19.5 mm rear
2000 s70 awd 20 mm front, 19.5 mm rear
2000 v70 fwd 20 mm front, 19.5 mm rear
2000 v70 awd 20 mm front, none? rear
2000 c70 20 mm front, 20 mm rear
2001 c70 20 mm front, 20 mm rear
2002 c70 coupe 23.5 mm front, 21 mm rear
2002 c70 convertible 20 mm front, 20 mm rear
2003 c70 convertible 20 mm front, 20 mm rear

update from VADIS 8/2005:
front sway bar part #s:
9173982 O.Dia 20 mm (marked red)
9173983 O.Dia 21 mm (marked yellow)
9173471 O.Dia 21.5 mm (marked yellow/blue)
rear sway bar part #s, don't have diameter:
9191459 (marked green)
9191461 (marked yellow)
9191462 (marked blue)
9191494 (marked black)

Long ago (before the VS crashes) the part number for the 302mm (11-7/8") brake conversion bracket was listed. I dug through my list of receipts and found the part number for you guys.


Volvo P/N: 8602456-9

List Price: $86.00 each, its listed by Volvo as a "Brace"


Have fun and stop faster.

just something i put together earlier.. my list

thread for my list was closed...so here's some changes

Bilstein HD Part Numbers for 850

front strut (both same spec for rebound/compression)
V36-4015: 91-93, can be modified to work with 94+, specifically abs brake line mounting points different.
VN3-4358: 94-97
compression/rebound
2925N/845N

rear shock
B36-1640
compression/rebound
1530N/770N

oem brakes

front caliper: ate single sliding
rear caliper: ate opposing double fixed

front pad: textar, 32f-1010f working temp, 0.40 coeff of friction
rear pad: roulund, 32f-1010f working temp, 0.38 coeff of friction

front rotor: 280mm (some are 302mm)
rear rotor: 295mm

some part numbers..

850 Wagon, V70 94-00
Ohlin 8-way adjustable shock absorbers. excludes AWD
Front: 9204201
Rear: 9204202
sedan i think may have different numbers listed
(gdogg or larry can probably give u awd numbers)

Volvo oem strut tower bar
9204176

Wagon Roof Spoiler
9184639 (+"347 98"), eurostyle roof spoiler with lights
9134941 without lights.

model year, engine number, capacity
CLICK

By Johann

The projected numbers are for your own good to see how your car develops over time.
Just to bad you never arranged a baseline of your car before the changes. It would have been nice to monitor the progress.
Which dyno totally depends on the system you will be using and how to translate the numbers.
My Volvo's have always been dyno'd at RICA in the Netherlands on a MAHA chassis dyno.
This system can measure the performance of the car by creating a rolling resistance and in a way emulating road situations. This is a so called static dyno system.
There are several ways of testing the car this way. One is to search for maximum output under load at a fixed RPM. The other way is to pick multiple RPM points in a row where the car needs to keep it's RPM point while the load is increasing until power collapses, nice for searching the detonation/ignition retarding limits. Every time the test is completed you move to the next RPM point. At the end the computer can produce a nice graph with the corresponding numbers.
Downside of this test is the enormous amount of heat going in to the car...
A nearly identical test is to increase RPM at the edge of the power delivery of the car. The dyno system can see where the power doesn't develop anymore so it increases RPM and starts measuring again. The amount of load can be set by the operator. This test is really killing for the engine. As a bystander you can see the RPM rise slowly but very smooth, like the car is accelerating in slowmotion. By reducing the load this process takes less time. At RICA they call this a so called quick run and it is a bit comparable to an inertia/dynamic type dyno system.
After performing the measuring of power the car needs to be rolled out until the wheels come to a stop and at this point the dyno can measure the energy going in to the drive train, the so called negative power, which represent the drivetrain losses. When finished the cumputer will calculate the numbers the results are plotted in corrected BHP, uncorrected BHP, torque and loss.
To use these numbers in the correct way you need to look at the corrected/uncorrected BHP numbers, not the wheel numbers because they will be lower compared to a inertia/dynamic dyno result. The cause for these differences can be found in the setup of both systems. Because of the load and the tires being "strangled" between two rollers instead of a big drum the overall resistance is higher.
RICA is using two fan's for different setups. One can produce 100 mph of air stream and the other near 50 mph.

When using a dynamic dyno system basically all you should do is to look at the wheel power results and nothing more. Unless the dyno system attempts to measure the negative power all calculations/conversions to engine power are useless, purely for indication.
Some people use loss figures of 12.5%, others 15% for manuals and between 18-25% for AT's...
Make sure you get the correct wheel numbers with a Dynojet type chassis dyno. Don't let the operator talk you in to a fictive loss numbers which needs to be entered in to the dyno computer.
Loss in non linear. You can't pick an X% loss and calculate through the rev band.
Loss at 1000 RPM is minimal, and AWD will show extreme losses at redline which will be as high 30-40%!. Power at the engine will develop while power at the wheels will drop after a certain point. Peak wheel HP is never in the same spot as peak engine HP.

For me the basic rule of thump, if the dyno is static and can measure losses use BHP.
If the dyno is dynamic use wheel HP which will always be relatively high.
Since US folks mostly use WHP as a base of power output your best choice would be to look for a Dynojet type or dynamic type dyno system and use these numbers to communicate on a forum like this. Using a static system and the results on a forum like this will only bring a lot of unfounded blah and confusion because a majority of the people simply do not understand how to look at these numbers. (No offence)
I did the same, I dyno'd my SwedeDemon at a Dynojet type dyno last year and asked for WHP only results. The results at the time were 284 WHP, the computer calculated 311 EHP, using the rule of thump guess losses the EHP numbers should be between 325 and 335... (Where did that 24 HP go?? )
In a way the results are only good for your car on your dyno system of choice on that time during the ambient circumstances of that day...


Static dyno is the way to go for you because you want your car to perform under constant load on the ring and with a static dyno you will come closest to the real situation. It is the only way to set the car up along the fine line of correct ignition timing. You don't want a high peaking HP dyno queen..


--------------------

HOW TO READ COMPRESSOR MAPS:

( sidenote:
got it from here.
couple of more basic knowledge about turbo theory, intercooler thoery, water injection theory. )

"Combustion requires two things: air and fuel. Well, technically, oxygen, fuel and a little heat, but the real chemistry behind combustion is not in the scope of this tutorial. For gasoline engines, the stoichiometric ratio of air to fuel is 14.7:1. For maximum power, a ratio closer to 12:1 is ideal. But no matter how much fuel you feed an engine, if there isn't sufficient air, you cannot increase the power. Of course, the converse is also true - if you have more air, you also need more fuel.

All engines have a fixed volume which can be occupied by air and fuel - this is what we measure when we speak of the size of an engine in CID (cubic inch displacement) or Liters. Now, the effective displacement of a given engine can change based on several factors, including cam duration, engine speed, exhaust flow, etc. This is why changing these things can create more power - by allowing more air (and thus, more fuel) into the engine per revolution. The percentage of the engine which is able to be filled with combustibles is referred to as volumetric efficiency (VE). Most modern, stock engines have a volumetric efficiency between 75-90%. The goal of most engine modifications is to increase this number.

Turbocharging an engine, on the other hand, affords us an opportunity to increase the amount of air in an engine without these expensive modifications. Turbochargers (and superchargers) force air into an engine, and they do this by compressing the air. That means, per unit volume, there is more air. How can this be? Because PV = nRT. If you hold V and T constant (R is already constant), as you increase P, so must n (or the number of air molecules) increase. But, I promised this wouldn't be a chemistry lesson.

Allow me to digress a little more and make a note about the cost effectiveness of turbocharging. All the other performance modifications I mentioned earlier are very costly - especially when you consider how little good they do. Consider this - if your engine has a volumetric efficiency of 80%, realistically, you're not going to get your volumetric efficiency above 100% (it's possible, but that would take a physics lesson to explain). So, we're talking about a 25% gain in power - and at an incredible expense. Turbocharge the same engine, and depending on its compression ratio, you can often get a 60% gain in power on pump gas. Add an intercooler and we're talking about doubling your power with very little sacrifice in reliability or driveability. A turbocharger is an incredible machine!

The Problem
So, let's get some piping and a turbo and slap it on. Check out TurboCalculator's list of free compressor maps (or get the real version and see the rest), and you'll see that the T100 flows the most air. Well, more air means more power, so lets put that monster on our engine. But our engine wouldn't be able produce enough air to turn the turbine. And even if it could, the relatively small amount of air our engine would need would cause the turbo to surge, which could damage it. So, you're telling me that I can't use just any turbocharger?

Yes, there is a science to turbocharging, and each turbocharger has an amount of air that it's able to supply efficiently and consistently. The problem is to select the correct turbo.

Turbo Selection
So, I've got to select the right turbo. The T3 I saw in Don's Turbo Emporium with the polished housing looked pretty nice, and it's not too big. Let's slow it down just a little and think this one through ok?

Every turbocharger compressor has what's called a compressor map. You probably already knew that or you wouldn't be here. The compressor map tells the efficiency at which a turbo operates given a pressure ratio and air flow requirements of the engine to which it is attached. This is where the islands come from. Each of these marks an equal compression efficiency. Anything inside a given island represents points of higher efficiency.

What on earth does it mean to compress air inefficiently? The less efficient the compression, the hotter the air. Compression Efficiency essentially tells what portion of the energy used is going to compression rather than heating up the air that's being compressed. The general rule of thumb is to keep efficiency above or near 65%, but this will obviously depend on the application.

So, why do we want cooler air? For two main reasons. First, hot air is more prone to pre-ignition (also known as pre-detonation) or auto-detonation, which can damage your engine. Second, colder air is denser. Let's look again at PV = nRT. If all is constant but n and T, as T decreases, n must increase. In other words, given a pressure (boost level) and volume (the size of your engine), as temperature increases, the number of air molecules decreases. Bottom line: hot air supports less power.

The process of turbo selection is plotting the air requirements of your engine on each compressor map to determine which turbo is best for your application. Beside the pain in the butt of plotting several points on every map for every engine configuration, proper turbo selection requires you to calculate the air requirements of your engine at each of the points of interest. Air requirements? How do we come up with those? With a lot of math.


The Math
For a detailed discussion of the math involved, have a look at this link.

More Problems
There are a few problems that anyone wishing to select a turbocharger for their engine is going to run into. First, turbo shop employees and owners either lack the time, knowledge, or experience to suggest the bet turbo for your application - especially if it's not a common project. Second, turbo charger compressor maps are very difficult to come by. For some reason, most manufacturers are very protective of most of the compressor maps. Fortunately, at TurboCalculator, we have been able to locate 84 public domain maps, many of which are very hard to come by. Feel free to have a look at the Garrett Maps which are available on our website. Last, it truly is a pain in the butt to do all of these calculations and plot the data by hand.

The Solution
TurboCalculator was born out of a desire to make the whole process much easier. TurboCalculator is an expert at selecting turbos. It's had plenty of practice and it knows the correct formulas. With TurboCalculator, you have 84 compressor maps at your disposal. And there's no reason to be timid about breaking free from the mold and working on a truly interesting project. TurboCalculator is useful for selecting turbos for nearly any application. We've had customers wanting to turbocharger rotary engines for aviation, bike engines, big block gas engines, smaller engines, diesels - you name it! So let TurboCalculator help you with your project.
"

add this to your wheels info http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.php?showtopic=19320# here is all the info you need to install wheels.

definitive answers to what injectors came on what, and how many CC's they are

!!!FAQ under construction!!! please bear with me as I repost and re-create the table of contents

Realized I still had a copy of the FAQ I had started pre-crash (couple years back) so here it is, back in action

Between this and Jesse's FAQ I think we have a pretty good base going.

Any comments/corrections/additions please go here
http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.php?showtopic=21018

How to move your battery sideways http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.php?showtopic=41820

Table of Contents

How can I find the answer to almost every concievable question?
What is the function of a CBV/BOV?
How do I learn how basic car principles work?
What are the stock boost levels for the 850 T5 and R models?
What is the benefit of relocating the horns?
Should I get the Tornado Air?
Where can I view the different types of Volvo factory wheels?
How do I install a boost gauge?
How do I install my sub and amp?
How can I get RCA preouts from an SC811 or similar factory radio?
Commonly Used Acronyms
What do the different member groups mean?
Should I remove my MAF (Mass AirFlow) sensor screen?
How do I perform a compression test?
Usefull HP/Torque formulas and definitions.
What are the approx. boost and vac numbers on the factory boost gauge?
Nice Upgrades between $20-$350
Vendors

How can I find the answer to almost every concievable question

USE THE SEARCH BUTTON!!!

Seriously, most questions can be answered by doing a simple search, so try it out before posting

What is the function of a cbv/bov?

First, some definitions.

CBV - Compressor Bypass Valve. When the throttle is closed suddenly, the CBV vents the excess boost pressure back into the intake after the MAF (mass airflow sensor)

BOV - Blow-Off Valve. When the throttle is closed suddenly, the BOV vents excess boost pressure into the atmosphere resulting in that familiar "whoosh" sound.

These devices prevent what is known as a "compressor surge" which would happen if the throttle plate was closed and the pressure had no where to go, but back into the turbo, causing it to slow rapidly.

How do I learn how basic car principles work?

Go to HowStuffWorks.com automotive section and learn in detail how turbos, automatic/manual transmissions, camshafts, etc work.

What are the stock boost levels for the 850 T5 and R models

Stock boost for an 850 T5 is 9.6psi or approximatly 2/3 bar.
Stock boost for an 850R is 10.6psi or approximatly 3/4 bar.

These are approximate figures, but depending on atmospheric conditions (humidity, ambient temp, altitude, etc) they may be lower or higher. And due to how the BCS (Boost Control Selenoid) works also, which is explained here.

What is the benefit of relocating the horns?

Performance gain is very minimal (if any). It is mostly for looks, as it looks much better with nothing clinging to the intercooler. In theory it should help more air flow past the intercooler, but the gains are still negligable.

As for where to mount them, there are a few options. A: there is an empty braket underneath wear the battery is all the way down under the car. Another option is mount it to the battery tray itself, although the horns will be harder to hear. And if you mount it to the bottom braket, make sure the horns are facing down so any water/snow/dirt/sand is able to escape freely and not get trapped in there and ruin the horns.

Should I get the Tornado Air?

NO!!

They may have some use on older carburated cars, but they will only take power away on a fuel injected car.

Where can I view the different types of Volvo factory wheels?

Gallery Of Wheels

They have pictures, part numbers, sizes, etc for almost all Volvo factory alloy rims.

Note: Not as complete as it once was, but still a good resource non-the-less.

How do I install a boost gauge?

Go to the boost gauge install guide on the main Volvospeed site under modifications.

Commonly used acronyms

60' -- time at 60 foot mark at a drag strip
ABS -- anti-lock braking system
AC -- air conditioning
AFAIK - As far as I know.
AFR -- air to fuel ratio
AT -- automatic transmission
ATF -- automatic transmission fluid
Burnout -- to purposely spin the tires while keeping the car standing still
BTW -- by the way
CAI -- cold air intake
CBV -- Compressor Bypass Valve
Cat-back -- entire exhaust upgrade from the catalytic converter, back
CEL -- check engine light
CF -- carbon fiber
Double clutching -- to "blip" the throttle when shifting gears as to engage a gear at optimal RPMs
DYNO -- dynomometer (measures torque and horsepower)
ECU -- electronic control unit
EST - www.eurosporttuning.com
EGT -- exhaust gas temperature
E-break -- emergency break
FAQ -- frequently asked questions
FPR -- fuel pressure regulator
F/S -- for sale
FSTB -- front strut tower brace
FYI -- for your information
GB -- group buy
H&R -- spring manufacturer
HID -- high intensity discharge
HLSD -- helical limited slip differential
HP -- horsepower
IB4L - In before the Lock, a common post, when you post before the thread is locked.
IAC - Idle Air Controller
IIRC - If I remeber correctly
IMO -- in my opionion
IPD - www.ipdusa.com
IMHO -- in my humble opinion
K&N -- air filter brand
KM -- kilometer
LSD -- limited slip differential
MAF -- mass air flow sensor
MOD -- modify/modification
MPG -- miles per gallon
MPH -- miles per hour
MT -- manual transmission
NA -- naturally aspirated which stands for a car without nitrous, supercharger, or turbocharger. A car with bolt-ons (i.e. exhaust, intake, computer upgrade, engine internal rebuild) is N/A... but once it gets nitrous, SC, or TC, it is not longer N/A. It will then be referred to as a forced fed car (force induction).
NE -- northeast
NOS -- Nitrous Oxide Systems (brand name)
OEM -- original equipment manufacturer
OT -- off topic
PIA -- pain in the a$$
PIAA -- company that sells bulbs
Plugs -- spark plugs
PM -- private message
POS -- piece of sh!t
PSI -- pounds per square inch (measurement of pressure)
RPM -- revolutions per minute
RICE -- any modification done to a car that someone else feels is inappropriate/ unecessary/ fugly/cheap/ tacky/ gauche/irrelevant/trifflin/etc etc etc
RSTB -- rear strut tower brace
R/T -- reaction time
SC - supercharger
SS - www.swedespeed.com
Shaving -- removing emblems and badges from the car
Sig -- signature at bottom of posts
Stock -- no modifications
Tach -- tachometer (shows RPMs)
TB -- throttle body
TB -- www.turbobricks.com
TC – Traction control/torque converter
Torque Breaking -- stepping on foot break while revving the engine as to get a better launch in an automatic transmission
TQ -- torque
TSB -- technical service bulletin
UDP -- underdrive pully
VB -- valve body
VS - www.volvospeed.com
VLSD -- viscious limited slip differential
VTEC – Honda's Variable Valve Timing Control
WOT -- wide open throttle
WTB -- want to buy
WTF -- what the f*ck

What do the different member groups mean?

Admin:
Admin are people who can make structural changes to the message board. Admin also have global moderator rights. (Charles)


Member Admin:
Member Admin are your go to guys for problems that you have with your account, user name, or any problem you might have with another member. Basically bother these people before bothering the Admin. (Kevin and Greg)

OH Moderators:
Overhead moderators can moderate in any forum on the board. They also help with any problems or questions you may have regarding moving your post, establishing a pinned post, using a feature, or any other problem you may have. (Anthony, Bing, Matt, John, Doug, Rich)

Moderators:
Moderators have the same permission rights and abilities as an OH Moderator, except they only hold that status in specific forums, not globally. (Alvin, Carson, Eric, Joseph, Theresa, Jeremey, Jesse, Johann, and Ed)

Vendors:
Vendors are shop owners who post in the forums and support their products directly. If you are a vendor and wish to post here, please contact an admin, or myself at webmaster@volvospeed.com. You are more than welcome, and I encourage you to help support your products however you can.

Members:
Members can start topics and polls, as well as reply in all forums, with the exception of the Volvospeed News and Announcements Forum. Members are divided as follows:

Meet your mods, in this thread here

Should I remove my MAF (Mass AirFlow) sensor screen?

No, there are virtually no performance gains by doing this. Plus the screen is there to straighten the air, and also protect the expensive sensor.

How do I perform a compression test?

1. Start out by removing the spark plug cover and all the spark plugs (doesn't matter if you take them out all at once, or one at a time)

2. Go to the fuse panel and pull out the ECU fuse (it's the top left one I think) this will prevent the injectors from firing without actually having to mess with them.

3. Plug the tester in and go to start it and let it crank a few times (should build all the pressure by the 3rd crank)

For a T5 engine it should be between 155-185psi. if it's a little low, you can use the oil method mentioned above for testing piston rings. Add just a teaspoon of oil and do the test again. If the compression rises significantly, then your piston rings are starting to wear. All my cylinders come out to 150psi and my boost is doing just fine with my new FPR, so don't worry too much if it is low.

Usefull HP/Torque formulas and definitions.

TORQUE IN LBS./FT. = (WEIGHT IN LBS. X LEVER ARM LENGTH IN FEET.)

1 HP = 550 LBS./FT./SEC.

1 HP = 33,000 LBS./FT./MIN.

HP = (TORQUE X RPM) / 5252

TORQUE = (HP X 5252) / RPM

TORQUE AT THE REAR WHEELS = (ENGINE TORQUE X TRANSMISSION GEAR RATIO X RING AND PINION RATIO)

ACCELERATIVE THRUST = (TORQUE AT THE REAR WHEELS / TIRE RADIUS IN FT.)

RATE OF ACCELERATION = (ACCELERATIVE THRUST / TOTAL VEHICLE WEIGHT.)

What are the approx. boost and vac numbers on the factory boost gauge?

The right end of the black is approx 25-30in HG and the end of the white is approx 1Bar or 14.7psi.

However this gauge is uncalibrated and therefore inaccurate. Also, compared to most aftermarket gauges, it is extremely slow responding.


NICE UPGRADES

Some of these items are safety, convenience & cosmetic Will work on 850 & 70 series Cars

********************************************************************

Bumper grille Grate part # 9159576 $35 helps prevent damage to Condensor
External transmission oil cooler from S70$300 part # 8618347
Oval exhaust tip from S70
Wide angle driver door Mirror $65
Power Antenna Switch black $30 part # 9447386
Wiper delay relay from VW/Audi $25
Sidemarker lights $30
Rear mudflaps $55 1993-1994.5 9124856 $19.17/3542924 late 1994.5-1991 $43.18
Sunroof wind deflector
Rear side window shades $145 PART # 6806289
Rear windshield Shade $208 PART # 9409647/9409648/9409649/GREY/TAUPE/BLUE
Rear seat heaters Switches/ harness 9128541-1/9128542-9/9148513-6 $26 each
rear seat heater elements top & bottom 9132197x2 / 9138876x2 $64 each
Rear lid spoiler
Front foglights
Stainless Steel Brake lines $70
IPD rear over load coils $125
IPD skid plate $150
IPD sway bars$325
IPD Top Motor mount $20
Samco hoses $90 -$200
Wheel locks $40 PART #8670963
Colgan Bra $100
Roof racks $150
Cargo tray PART$115 Part # 9453188
Tunnel mat cover carpet in rear $14 part #9192840
850 Door Skuff plates $120
Rubber winter floor mats $98 part # 9422217 grey/9421998
Coolant reservoir cap new style is green $8
KNN Filter $45 part # 33-2670
Volvo strut mount Brace part# 9204176
Cabin air filter $18 part # 9171296
Cabin filter adaptor $20 part # 9184129
ac evaporator $185 part # 6802300
ac receiver drier $57 part # 9137405
anti squeal brake paste $9 part # 1161325
Sc 816 Cd radio rebuilt part black face $195 part # 8103945
Sc 901 3 disc cd radio $252 part # 8103921-2 rebuilt
SC 901 3 cd magazine $52 part # 9496314-7
Amplifier Needed as well Harness for SC 901
antenna mast $16 part # 3533568
Trip Computer
Rear table for pass seat $48.50 part # 9499055

Some of these prices are from FCP Groton & other supliers such as IPD & the Borton Volvo

You can verify part # & color on VLVWorld.com

http://www.vlvworld.com/indexframe.html?850/toc.htm

answers to how to program the KeyFob

GREAT INJECTOR INFORMATION

the silicone hose how to