Suspension overhaul for my S60R. Yesterday I assembled the new 4c shocks and struts with some spare S60R springs to cut down on the install time. Parts are ready to go on once I get the fuel new fuel lines installed on the S70 and can finally get it off jack stands and out of the garage.
The -6 lines fit in the stock plastic housings under the car. The main one that runs under and the few retaining brackets that hold the lines over the axle and on top of the tank. You have to drop the tank to get the old lines out and get the new ones in. The tank drops really easily on FWDs. There are a few places where they enter the engine bay where I used big cable brackets to secure them away from the downpipe etc. I pulled the old lines out and was able to loop them with some spare fittings to stop gas from pouring out everywhere..
Just placing my order for Goodrich steel braided PTFE hoses from Pegasus auto reacing supply. These guys are absolutely amazing to deal with. I'm debating having them make the lines up with crimp on fittings so they can pressure test them etc.. or just buying their hose and fittings and installing the reusable fittings myself. I'm leaning towards the crimp on so once I get them, I can throw them in and be DONE. Finalizing the order tomorrow morning.
It's alive! Let me back up a bit.. Got the fuel filter.. really nice piece. 10 micron paper filter. 10x better than the little Russell filter I bought previously which only had a 40 micron stainless disc
Got the compression to -6 fittings which also worked great
Pulled all the stock lines out
Installed the new filter
S60R rail with -6 fittings welded on each end.. added the 98 dampener instead of getting the original feed hole welded shut.. Just going to run the 630s at the moment until I get things dialed in a bit better.
compression fittings installed
Dirty car back on the ground after months on jack stands!
I set the base fuel pressure and fired it up.. the tune is WAY off, but it's got good cold start oil pressure, vacuum and AFRs are ok since I adjusted them
Now the fucked up part... I fired it up for the first time a few days ago.. checked for leaks etc ... all good but ran outta time and had to push it back into the garage. Went out the next day and the garage smells like gas. Ok, so I check all the fittings.. they're all dry. No gas anywhere to be seen. I fire it back up to build pressure. Still no leaks. There are only 8 connections in the fuel system 2 at the tank, 2 at the filter, 2 at the rail and 2 at the regulator. I start sniffing around the engine bay and the fittings are all good but the lines themselves smell like fuel vapor. I start googling and find all these posts on various car forums with people having the same issue. This seems to be a common issue with many types of CPE hose. I used Russell ProClassic -6 nylon braided line. It specifically says on their website http://russellperformance.com/mc/hose/proclassic.shtml "For racers and performance enthusiasts who want high quality plumbing that's lighter and easier to assemble than traditional braided steel hose, Russell ProClassic hose is the perfect choice. It features a lightweight nylon fiber outer braid with a CPE inner liner, and a maximum pressure rating of 350 psi. It is capable of handling nearly every plumbing task on your car and is safe to use with fuel, oil, or antifreeze. " Since I mounted the FPR right on the fuel rail and have lines going close to the motor, I do not feel confident driving the car. It seems like the way to fix this is to use teflon (PTFE) hose or hardlines. The local supplier is looking into the issue and will probably let me return the hose as defective, but i'm not sure about the fittings. If I go PTFE, it uses a different type of fitting. I'm going to call the local industrial hose shop and see what they recommend. If i'm pulling all the lines out and redoing eveything, then i'm doing it right so I never have to worry about it again. Another one step forwad, two steps back.. seems to be a common occurance with this part of the build..
Your cam cover is coated/painted. Have you removed the coating with sand paper/emerycloth for all the grounds for a nice solid ground connection where the coils bolt to the head and the grounds for the coils mount. Same with the two eng grounds on the cover?
As for the FPR, you mentioned getting a bung welded to the rail at some point. Put one on each end and put the regulator after the rail. It's a bypass regulator and is suggested to be placed after the rail as per the Aeromotive site.