So I looked into the bulkhead fittings and it seemed really promising, but i'm not sure how well it will work after looking at the underside of the pump housing. Maybe the AWD stuff is different? Once you remove the stock hard line and drill it out to accept the -6 bulkhead fitting, that plastic boss will be gone and those fins will have no strength to tighten the nut to. If you ground them down, the top piece is so thin it wouldn't have much strength either.
I'm still looking into alternatives. Welding won't work cause it will just melt the plastic around the tubes and lose the seal. I'm contemplating using the push on fittings and then modifying the cover plate to keep them held down. That or just put a fuel cell in
So I test fit Trent's downpipe. It still has the flange for his old turbo on it, but I just wanted to get an idea of how it sits.
His turbo was a fair bit shorter than mine at the turbine outlet so it's sitting over to the passenger side a good couple inches more than his at the moment. I'll be cutting off the flange so I can have the proper one welded and can cut it back an extra inch or so to bring the pipe more towards the driver side.
Either way, where it passes over the subframe/steering rack it's pretty close to my fuel lines. I still have the stock lines in place and had planned on switching over to -6 AN all the way back to the pump. I have all the fittings, hose, S60R rail with -6 fittings welded, Aeromotive regulator, gauge etc.. my only problem is this.. Trying to adapt the stock 5/16" hard line at the fuel pump housing to -6 AN. The hard lines have no barbs on them.
Russell make an adapter fitting, but it uses the barb to lock into place.
That is the fush on type which is now discontined, but it still uses the barb. The other adaptors say they are limted to 50psi which isn't going to work. What are my options here? I have a spare pump housing and could just get -6 fittings welded to the hardlines? Then just pull my assembly out and swap my pump over.. (currently running a Walbro GSS432) or put a better pump in while i'm at it. Thoughts?
You tilted the motor back as it would sit in the car to get the right angle on the drain? Mine had less of a drop so using AN stuff just wouldn't have worked. If you have a couple stock drain tubes, you should always fab something. I think the flange with the male fitting might do the trick for you though.
It would probably help a bit with heat soak, but there is little room once torque mount and 4" intake pipe is in place. Plus, it would require a lot more rejigging of the intercooler pipe. I have a bunch of heat shielding from cars i've parted so I might put something in place to create some separation. I did manage to find a billet oil cap for the rear since it's close to the manifold. Just looking for another so the two will match I got the intercooler piping and intake pipe mocked up. Just going to do one final test fit after work, then it's off to be welded. It actually looks closer to the than it really is