BlackT5

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Everything posted by BlackT5

  1. BlackT5

    Project Blackt5

    Pretty much had to drop the tank to get the old lines and stuff out. I just wish i had those fittings to get everything buttoned up and put back together. Plumbing the wastegate dump back into the downpipe is going to be a PITA. Right now, i'm just going to run the screamer pipe. It will be a little bit before I start running the car hard anyway since I have to retune it. I have a U/J bend and bellows for the piping, but I might just get a shop to do something.. we'll see Got the headlights in, mounted the FPR on the rail and started doing some of the fittings. I also still haven't upgraded my injectors! I gotta get that sorted out.. I still have the 630s if I can't find the deal I want on the ID1000s
  2. BlackT5

    Project Blackt5

    It might, but idgaf at this point.
  3. BlackT5

    Project Blackt5

    OK! getting so sick of fittings! I ordered two of these... 5/16" compression fitting to -6AN. They will hold the 80-85psi no problem at all. Then i'll run a couple 120 degree fittings to get the lines back where they need to go. done and done. If for whatever reason I start having fuel delivery probs then i'll revamp the pump assembly or something, but this should be good for now. http://www.ebay.com/itm/6-AN-to-5-16-tube-compression-fitting-Black-/230870157968?hash=item35c0ef0a90
  4. BlackT5

    Project Blackt5

    Hmmm. It's supposed to be good to over 200psi. Not really sure what else to do at this point, compression fitting was what was recommended at the local industrial fitting and hose shop. I know the 90 isn't ideal. I could always go with a straight one and then use AN to make the bend.
  5. BlackT5

    Project Blackt5

    I got it figured out. I'm going to use 90 degree 5/16" compression fittings to male 1/4" npt, then a female 14/" npt to male -6AN. So from the fittings on the feed side, -6 hose to Russell fuel filter Fuelab fuel filter with 10 micron element and then directly to one side of the rail. From there, out the other end of the rail to aeromotive FPR. Then from the FPR bypass, return directly to the tank. More pics as I put it all together this weekend. Got the downpipe done. Basically just cut up Trents old downpipe, added my turbo flange, extended it and added a Vibrant 18" resonator. I had one on my last downpipe and really liked the sound. Now I just need to plub the wastegate dump into the downpipe somewhere. Tricky part will be doing it in such a way that I can still get the downpipe in & out. It's a tight fit as it is.. Also finally got some OEM jewel headlights/corners to finish off the front end.
  6. BlackT5

    Project Blackt5

    So I looked into the bulkhead fittings and it seemed really promising, but i'm not sure how well it will work after looking at the underside of the pump housing. Maybe the AWD stuff is different? Once you remove the stock hard line and drill it out to accept the -6 bulkhead fitting, that plastic boss will be gone and those fins will have no strength to tighten the nut to. If you ground them down, the top piece is so thin it wouldn't have much strength either. I'm still looking into alternatives. Welding won't work cause it will just melt the plastic around the tubes and lose the seal. I'm contemplating using the push on fittings and then modifying the cover plate to keep them held down. That or just put a fuel cell in
  7. BlackT5

    Project Blackt5

    I could also just fab a new downpipe with a nice tight bend off the turbo to keep it away from the fuel line area. Then I could worry about the fuel lines later..
  8. BlackT5

    Project Blackt5

    So I test fit Trent's downpipe. It still has the flange for his old turbo on it, but I just wanted to get an idea of how it sits. His turbo was a fair bit shorter than mine at the turbine outlet so it's sitting over to the passenger side a good couple inches more than his at the moment. I'll be cutting off the flange so I can have the proper one welded and can cut it back an extra inch or so to bring the pipe more towards the driver side. Either way, where it passes over the subframe/steering rack it's pretty close to my fuel lines. I still have the stock lines in place and had planned on switching over to -6 AN all the way back to the pump. I have all the fittings, hose, S60R rail with -6 fittings welded, Aeromotive regulator, gauge etc.. my only problem is this.. Trying to adapt the stock 5/16" hard line at the fuel pump housing to -6 AN. The hard lines have no barbs on them. Russell make an adapter fitting, but it uses the barb to lock into place. That is the fush on type which is now discontined, but it still uses the barb. The other adaptors say they are limted to 50psi which isn't going to work. What are my options here? I have a spare pump housing and could just get -6 fittings welded to the hardlines? Then just pull my assembly out and swap my pump over.. (currently running a Walbro GSS432) or put a better pump in while i'm at it. Thoughts?
  9. That was near an elementary school.
  10. BlackT5

    Project Blackt5

    It would probably help a bit with heat soak, but there is little room once torque mount and 4" intake pipe is in place. Plus, it would require a lot more rejigging of the intercooler pipe. I have a bunch of heat shielding from cars i've parted so I might put something in place to create some separation. I did manage to find a billet oil cap for the rear since it's close to the manifold. Just looking for another so the two will match I got the intercooler piping and intake pipe mocked up. Just going to do one final test fit after work, then it's off to be welded. It actually looks closer to the than it really is
  11. BlackT5

    Project Blackt5

    gettin there Got a hair taken off the head flange Manifold mounted and turbo in place. Now I just need to mock up the intercooler piping over the motor, redo the intake pipe and redo the downpipe.
  12. BlackT5

    Project Blackt5

    I don't have a welder so I had to drag the spare block to my buddy's house with the manifold and turbo mounted so he could weld up an oil return. I pulled the pan, crank girdle and crank out because now that i'm done with it for mockup, I'm going to build a spare short block to have as a spare. I already have an extra set of china rods and the set of forged diamond pistons that I got from Trent. I have rings and rod bolts so I just need bearings. Oil return done Had him weld a vband onto the compressor outlet also.. A shot of my modified water pipe and oil cooler lines.
  13. BlackT5

    Project Blackt5

    After a few week delay, my rad and ignition coils showed up. I completed the wiring for the coil on plug conversion, so that's done. There weren't many places to mount the Earls oil cooler and in hindsight, I would have bought one a little wider and shorter. Luckily the rad came with brackets welded for the A/C condenser which I was able to use to mount my own brackets for the oil cooler. I never use the A/C so I had already torn it out. I'm using Russell -8 nylon AN hose for the oil cooler that run to the fittings I had welded onto the stock lines I cut off. I got the cams in and was able to set them up by lift @‌ TDC on cyl 3. Worked great. I got my bro to cut and weld the big water pipe at the back of the motor to get the water line outlets out of the way of the compressor inlet and also to aim the water return port from the turbo down and away from runner 1 on the manifold. Water lines are plumbed for the turbo. Next is to have my buddy weld up an oil drain and weld a vband to the turbo compressor outlet. Then I'm going to wrap the manifold and install it with the turbo. Once that's done, I can rejig the intercooler piping over the motor and the 4" intake pipe to the turbo. Last bit will be to test fit Trent's downpipe and modify as needed. Probably redo the wastegate dump and plumb it back into the downpipe also. Definitely the flange will need to be cut off and the one for my 3" GT outlet welded. The only thing I need to buy is injectors and i'm leaning towards the ID1000s. Then I have to decide if I wanna redo all the fuel lines or just wait til next winter. I have all the stuff but I just wanna drive my carrrrrrrr vvvvrrroommm pssshh &6%$#)*&#@
  14. BlackT5

    Project Blackt5

    I'm trying to decide if I should dry fit it all to measure or just go ahead and put in the seals and anerobic sealant. Leaning toward the latter
  15. BlackT5

    Project Blackt5

    Got it all ready to set the cams but the motor seemed too difficult to turn over. Piston clearance was good on all cyls. Seemed like perhaps the cams were binding since it's not the original cover? perhaps the cut up cover was warped? I quickly bailed on the whole idea and pulled it all apart. I'm going to measure off cyl 3 and use my original cam cover. First I had to create access on the exh side. Tapped out the plug and pressed in another filler neck. Dual oil cap status! Time to find tdc on cyl 3 and put things back together..I swear if I ever have to do this shit again, i'm pulling the motor.
  16. Picked up a new torque wrench to match my larger one. Proto 3/8 drive 10-80 ft lbs. Mainly I needed this to torque the new timing belt tensioner pulley bolt (T40) since nothing else I had would fit in there. Good excuse to buy tools
  17. BlackT5

    Project Blackt5

    Progress is slowwwww. Installed the new water pump, idler pulley. Had to stop when none of my torque wrenches would fit between the frame rail when trying to torque the new timing belt tensioner pulley. Picking up a new torque wrench today. Picked up this TDC locator for $20 shipped off amazon and it works great. Marked true TDC Spun the crank to Volvo TDC and set the cams in the open cover. With the slots aligned, they look to be in the ballpark so it should just be a matter of fine tuning them Wire is just to hold the cams in the cover during placement. Plenty of assembly lube used, don't worry I have not tightened the cover down, but it doesn't look like much room to get the dial gauge on the lifter, especially at the correct angle inline with the valve stem. DO88 rad should be here this week with some new Volvo coils. COP wiring is figured out. Working on adjustments to the big water pipe so I can finish plumbing the turbo. Also starting to mock up the revised intercooler piping. Looking at it now, it might almost be easier to get the dial gauge on the cyl 3 lifters..hmmm
  18. BlackT5

    Project Blackt5

    -8 AN fittings welded to the oil cooler lines. Will run braided hose to this Earls oil cooler. DO88 aluminum rad should arrive in a week or two.
  19. BlackT5

    Project Blackt5

    Here's my 4.4 rail
  20. There have to be at least a dozen people on here that have converted from dual mass to single mass clutch setups and retained the internal slave cylinder, myself included. If installed correctly, there should be no issue aside from maybe some clutch/gear box chatter. You said you gave them the internal slave trans with the slave already installed, so either they put the clutch disc in backwards or it's just not bled correctly. ASk them to bleed it again when you're there, or go bleed it yourself.
  21. BlackT5

    Project Blackt5

    I had them all replaced when my motor was built, but I suppose that was 10 years ago.
  22. Don't change the master, it really shouldn't make a difference. Something is messed up with the install. Either it's not bled right, they didn't install the shifter cables correctly, or didn't install the clutch correctly.
  23. BlackT5

    Project Blackt5

    Just checked my lifters again and most don't do it, but I found a couple that do. lol