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Everything posted by erikv11

  1. hmmm sent email way back, got email reply, waited ... didn't get most recent email with the GB details! ok I'm sure the list was long some may fall through the cracks so I sent another email today - looking forward to endlinks!
  2. My car's radiator has a hairline crack in the upper outlet. It stopped leaking when I replaced the hose and cranked it down. But so I started shopping and reading because I'll be replacing it soon enough. Now I'm not afraid to buy an aftermarket part if it will work well and will last a while (I know often they don't ...) but I decided that based on fitment and quality issues I read about in posts here, it is probably worth buying the OEM radiator. You'll basically never have to replace this OEM part again, you may have to replace the Nissens. eEuroparts was selling the OEM for a while, check
  3. I can't see how a fuel additive would cause the oil leak. Clean it up, see where the oil is coming from. If it isn't a turbo line or something then as far as PCV is concerned, word here goes like: "If it is puffing smoke out of the dipstick, then PCV probably needs done. compression check in order like RussB said." "If replacing the oil cap and/or gasket doesn't fix it, then R&R the PCV." "PCV is part of stage zero. If you have a pre-98 and you've never done it, then it is probably time." One nice thing about a compression check and leak-down is you may want to make sure your mot
  4. plus one the only thing holding a rotor on is the caliper and that little stud Bay 13 is very clear about this sounds like what you are doing wrong is, trying to remove your axles to replace your rotors.
  5. If you mean the play is in the joint, like it moves in and out and the joint itself might fall apart, then I'd fix it now. Driving without a front sway can't be much fun or very safe, on a long trip. If the joint is just worn, like rotates too easily but still stays in the joint, then you're probably OK. People drive on worn end links for a long time. And you're sure the looseness is in the joint and not due to the nut being loose?
  6. sorry about that, yeah, stage zero is maintenance There is a pinned thread (top of Performance forum) that explains how to search, check it out. So you can use one of those tricks to search three letter words (* or google direct or google via firefox pugin). Or you can just spell the whole word(s) for acronyms ("positive crankcase ventilation") that will get you a long way. Alright I'll stop side-jacking your thread, hey at least I give you free bumps :D
  7. PCV system consists of oil trap and several pipes/hoses there is a pinned thread for pcv replacement in turbo 850s sells a kit for the turbo cars, or you can buy parts individually. if you're doing it yourself then get an intake manifold gaskey in addition to the kit.
  8. Actually MIJ other people were been posting that a lot, back in the spring. But I agree and no one has said it yet on this thread so +1
  9. actually your thread has 193 views right now and unless 150 of them are from you, I think you have like, one forum's opinion on most of stage zero. I seem to recall member number is pretty high here. So Bosch, Bougicord, Mann, Walbro, or can almost never go wrong with OEM. People aren't likely to post if it's already been said, and it has. Do a search, you will find it said hundreds of times more. Would that convince you?
  10. +1 Crush washers aren't meant to be reused. They are soft metal that crushes to make a nice tight seal with the microscopically uneven surface of the oil pan. Presumably you can only crush them once.
  11. you are resetting the CEL (Check Engine Light) this tool resets the Service Light. The light that just comes one every x,000 miles. it is not part of the OBDII system, but it is accessible from there. I don't know the answer to your real question though, about the pin-outs :)
  12. Bilstein TC are pretty close to stock, unless you're thinking of upgrading struts too, a pair of rear, stock springs may be your best bet for now. Try a PM to RussB, I think he recently put in stock springs from fcpgroton.
  13. for stock is always good. you can buy OEM from them (ask them for a price) or they have aftermarket on their web page for your car's suspension. or is often a little cheaper than fcp and will definitely have a stock replacement. If you want improved performance from your springs, there is a load of reading available in the performance forum. Do a search or try posting over there maybe someone will throw you a bone. But most go with lowering springs if they want improved performance. And you'd almost certainly have to replace all four springs if you go with any ki
  14. What color are the Bilstein shocks, are they yellow (HD) or black (Touring)? What do you have on the front, stock or Bilsteins (if so what color)?
  15. If you are replacing the tensioner then it will come compressed and you don't need to compress it. Unless you don't line up the marks properly before you pull the pin . fcp prices 27 t-belt 125 genuine volvo t-belt tensioner, hydraulic 48 t-belt tensioner roller 48 idler arm roller 49 water pump Hepu 297 total you can save a few bucks with, or you can ask fcp for the eBaY special (240 for everything but the water pump), but you get the idea, it is a $300 job to get new everything.
  16. On the earlier years (93 and maybe 94) the bushings were not vulcanized. So the parts houses sell bushings for 850 bars. Often they list these parts as compatible with all years. And there are other, non-rubber aftermarket bushings out there. So time to time, people ask here about replacing the bushings. You can replace the bushings on the newer bars too, but you have to burn off the old ones (or something similar to remove them) and I agree that I'd probably replace the bar instead. Especially with so many good, OEM bars around from folks upgrading to IPD bars.
  17. yes which means it is a hassle to replace the bushings - have to burn them off or something.