Volvo Brad

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About Volvo Brad

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  1. That's the conclusion I've landed on. I'll have to do the full tear down and find a good machinist who knows what they're doing. Slipping is no good! I'll shop around a bit and see if I can't find a better deal I'm in no rush. Thanks again!
  2. I'll plan on keeping the pistons stock then. I'll keep an eye out and see if a good engine pops up somewhere, but I'm still leaning towards keeping the original engine. Is there a tool that would allow you to check the bore through the spark plug hole? I did do a compression test recently with the following numbers 137, 138, 148, 145, 149 dry and no result, 156, 168, 179, 169 wet. If I do have to have it bored I'll have to pull the block anyways and take it to a machine shop. The longer crank rod combo seems like a good option, but would it not be simpler to just swap in forged rods and leave the existing crank? Perfect! The DW200 looks great and I'll be sticking to gasoline. Alright! Is there any other injectors you'd consider as well? Understood, I'll plan on upgrading to 3.5" housing. Perfect! That kit seems like a great option. A little more than I was hoping to spend on the turbo but I'll definitely consider this. I'll follow up with you if this ends up being what I decide on. 850R clutch looks perfect. Is there a cheaper option for the pressure plate? The sachs is listed for $570 on Viva. Makes total sense I'll stick to the cbv. I'll do some research into water methanol injection. Also is there any benefit to be had with the NA cams? Do you know if the 850 manual pedal assembly fits in the s70? I've heard mix things on the forums. Thanks again man this info was super helpful!
  3. They look like a great option. I'll keep them in mind. Thanks!
  4. Hey everybody. I’m new to the forum, but not Volvos. I pulled a m56h transmission and all the corresponding parts from a 97 850 junker a few months ago. I’m going to be swapping all of that into my 98 S70 T5 automatic as soon as I’m healed up from a shoulder injury. I currently have 25mm IPD sways front and rear H&R lowering springs and Koni str.t Struts and Bilstein HD shocks. The car handles like a dream, and I’m ready to throw more power at it as soon as I’m done with the manual swap. I already have some basic power mods that are listed below. Current setup 2.5 inch cat back High flow cat 3 inch downpipe Snabb intake ARD tune Running around 17psi max boost pressure Long story short I’m planning on forged internals and a bigger turbo. A certain horsepower target isn’t really important to me just that it’s noticeably faster and even more of a joy to drive than it already is currently. I’m open to any suggestions and let me know if I left anything important out. Parts Forged Internals K1 Forged connecting rods with Glyco bearings (Glyco > OEM from what I’ve heard) Wiseco Forged pistons Fuel Pump Any suggestions for a beefier fuel pump? Preferably something that can just be swapped out. Fuel Injectors From what I’ve read needs to be at least 500cc. Fuel rail Will the stock rail support this? NA Cams Easy enough to grab at a junkyard NA Manifold and Throttle Body Increased flow is always good MAF Would the stock MAF support this? I’ve read of people using bigger housings with the stock MAF. Spark plugs Volvo OEM? Turbo The Garret gt3071r is what I’ve read that other people have been using for similar power goals. What kind of modifications need to be made for this to bolt in? I read that there’s a lip or something that needs to be machined down. Is the oil feed/ drain different? As for the downpipe I’ll have my local exhaust guy handle that. Also what should I do for the waste gate? I’ll be running a blow off valve. Any better options for turbos? Clutch and pressure plate I’ve read of people getting away with the 850r clutch, but I’m leaning towards a Spec clutch kit. LSD Hefty price tag... I'll probably do this at a later date. I know how to feather the throttle 😉 Engine build process I’ve read of people doing this multiple ways. The most appealing of which involves removing and rebuilding the head. Leaving the bottom end in the car dropping the oil pan removing the rods and pistons. Honing the cylinder walls with a drill bit attachment and not bother with removing the crank. Then reinstall everything. This would be super nice because I wouldn’t have to go out and buy an engine lift and stand. I also don’t have much room in the garage to begin with. Of course I can double check all the measurements and what not to make sure everything is in working order. I couldn’t imagine there’s any issues with the engine since it’s been in the family since new and has never been over heated. If there are any issues, I’ll have to bite the bullet and have a machinist have at it. Tuning I’ll have someone else do the tuning. I was planning on ARD, but their site is down for me… Not sure if they’re still even in business. I could use a local tuner. I’m in Tulsa and don’t know of any local Volvo tuners. I could probably tow it though. So if you know of any good tuners in say OKC, Dallas, Saint Louis, KC, Denver, or anything in that area of the country let me know. Thanks y’all!