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About Keaton85

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    i'll kill you Leonard Nimoy

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  1. If you keep the vacuum hooked up it will make exhaust fumes go toward the pump. Either remove them or just flip the one way valve right before the solenoid. That way it will look all stock of that's what your going for. In my opinion, removing every last trace will free up a lot of space. I even put a 10watt 30ohm resister in place of the solenoid.
  2. Are you 100% sure you put the diode in the right direction? And not backwards?
  3. Yup, cap the vacuum tree and remove those lines! only takes 5mins and your asking for trouble leaving that hooked up.
  4. Just a 10W 30-33ohm resistor works perfect. It's rather large so I tape it into the harness.
  5. They all have the same 1.1V voltage drop. Thus going with a 1N4004 should work since it's rating it just to handle higher voltage, with the same spec for 1.1V which is all your looking for.
  6. Readiness is a real pain in the butt to get. It takes time... Umm and you didn't deal with the vacuum solenoid so your just opening the exhaust right into the pump! Not good
  7. Someone messed up the oil injection and it ran without oil. The boat is mint and the motor only had 400hrs.
  8. I'm in the middle of a rebuild. It's a 150HP direct injection 2-stroke, pretty quick boat!
  9. ARD is software which removes the need for anything hardware. This is a hardware fix that tricks the ECU. Either way doesn't matter.
  10. what is the resistance on the relay. Idono if it's possible to install a resistor in place of the relay and still keep the ECU happy. Or you could flash a new BIN file to your computer without SAS and call it a day haha. although you have CEL and readiness checks down there in southern Maine. Past Wiscasset, we don't have CEL or readiness inspection requirements
  11. Did you start at 0 when counting? As the first pin is 0 and the second is 1 then so forth?
  12. Reset the CEL with a scanner? Vacuum hoses don't matter.