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    Tallahassee, FL
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  1. SO I finally got the new shift cable assembly. It was back-ordered. I got it in and all is tight and good now. Here are a few wrap up pictures of the old failed cable. Looks like the sleeve around the cable totally failed and was cracking off. The broken wires you see are part of the cable sleeve, not the cable itself. Once it broke, it allowed the cable to expand the sleeve causing the shift issues. Thanks to everyone for the assistance.
  2. Update, finally got the time to get under the car and check out the cables at the firewall... and well, there is an issue. See the pic. That is a hole in the cable cover and piece of the cable sticking out. When the shifter goes too far into the lower gears and feels like something moves, the cover of the cable inside is broken and expands in the rubber. So, new shift cable set on order now. I will update if this resolves it. It does not look like it will be too hard to change them. Are there any gotchas I need to know?
  3. Do you have a pic of how you have it configured? Here is mine. It is set on the "tilt stick towards back of car hole", for lack of a better name? I did not get the chance to tear this apart and look for moving parts, but I have not found any yet from what i can get to.
  4. Ok, Thanks. I will update again after I check it out this weekend.
  5. I will check out the brackets and stuff this weekend. I found this thread now that I think I have an area to focus on, this is similar to what is happening but I did not lose the gears all together. I found a couple other things like this and it seems that replacing the shift link cables resolved it. If all my brackets and cables LOOK fine, could it be the cable is just stretched or something?
  6. Are you talking about the bracket that holds the cables? Not the bushings, right? I will have to probably pull my intake pipe and take a look. I did not look that far back, just at the plate. This? Not a picture of mine, but just want to make sure I am looking at the right stuff.
  7. I tried to search but I don't really have a name for what is happening. I have an issue while shifting. I will try to explain it. When going into the gears at the bottom of the shift (2,4,R), If I do not go pretty slow, it feels like the shifter assembly moves back towards the back of the car. Meaning that it feels like all the gear positions for the stick are further towards the back. I can resolve this issue by putting it in first or third and pushing towards the front of the car (not very hard, but some pressure). I kind of feel a creaking in the stick and it moves forward. Then the gear positions are back where they are supposed to be. I ordered the Snabb delrin shift assembly bushings as I thought the assembly was moving, but I am pretty sure it is not after pulling up the boot and looking. I have the Snabb short shift plate and stainless bushing installed (has been a couple of years), but it is tight with no movement. I did notice when checking it that I can lift up on the arm/shift plate on the transmission side and it moves up and down. It does not feel normal to me, but I am not sure if this is normal or not. If I drive gently, giving plenty of time to ease it into the bottom gears, nothing changes. That is about all I have. I am pretty confused, any ideas would be great. I think the 2000 has the all brass forks from my reading, but I could be wrong. Not sure if this matters.
  8. Great news! Glad you got it sorted!
  9. That banjo fitting only affects things at idle. I suspect the new banjo bolt with the check valve in it would help your issue as that is the only boost leak into the PCV system that I know about. I had some oil seeping from my cam seal and valve cover gasket and after I got this all back together and I cleaned it off I have seen no evidence of any more seeping. So hopefully that is all your issue is. Let me know, I am curious if it fixes it.
  10. One last update here. I was also having some idle issues and dipping RPMs when I let off the throttle. I was suspecting my ETM, but turns out that fixing the PCV also resolved the issues with idle and RPMs. Just figured I would throw this out there as well since I did not connect the two issues.
  11. I got one for the passenger side, but do not see how it is supposed to fit even without the hole that is needed. Weird that my 98 did not have these, it had the the pleather/Leather over the joint. Should the caps fit over the fabric on the joint or do you have to remove the fabric for these to fit?
  12. Finally got back to this after getting over being sick for a week. Ended up pulling the intake and going over everything again. PTC was completely clear. I have a newer version with a large hole. No blockage there. Other ports were all good. Turns out, as mentioned by a couple of people above, the banjo fitting and vacuum line from it were completely clogged. I removed the vacuum line and replaced with a double ended fitting to the PCV canister hose and silicone line to connect it to the banjo fitting. Put it all back together using a new version banjo bolt with the valve and bingo-bango I have vac at idle now per the glove and no smoke at the dipstick! Thanks for all the help and advice. Job complete!
  13. Thanks, looking at it this weekend, weather permitting.
  14. Can this vac line be replaced? I know it comes off the banjo bolt side, but what about the other side on the hose?