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Tightmopedman9 last won the day on May 1

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About Tightmopedman9

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    ever been to the southern part of the gulf for the Bonita run?
  • Birthday 09/04/1989

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    Denver, CO
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  1. Anyone running a 608 .bin on an automatic with the transmission select bit changed to auto? Have you noticed an occasional P0130/EFI-212? I've noticed that on some of my 608 tunes for autos this DTC will be set seemingly randomly, even when the O2 sensor is operating well within spec.
  2. Sounds like spark blowout, but hard to tell from the short video. What gap? What plugs? You have the ability to datalog so I'd suggest collecting a log to get a better idea.
  3. You won't.
  4. Get the TD06H 8CM RB26 20G from Kinugawa, pair it with DW800 injectors, a DW200 fuel pump and E85. You'll have 430+WHP with full boost at ~3600RPM.
  5. Do you have VIDA?
  6. Yes, the whole logging routine is non-stock. That is basically the focal point of the whole M4.4 tuning project.
  7. You could probably gain a bit more useful power band by readjusting the cams. The intake cam has 28º of total range of VVT control and the exhaust cam 17º. When the cams are timed according to factory spec and the VVT control left alone you'll effectively have 14º of retard on the intake and 8.5º of retard on the exhaust. I'd recommend advancing the exhaust by ~10º and advancing the intake by ~6º to liven up the low/mid-range a bit and give you a touch less overlap, which can help with knocking in the mid-range.
  8. There is no NGK copper equivalent to the BKR7E for use in the R head. I'd recommend NGK LFR7AIX-11, they're one heat range colder than stock and reasonably priced. I'd start at .026" gap. Also, if you're still using TurboTuner with no way to monitor knock then set all your high load ignition value to 6.75º to be safe. If you run the same ignition map as you were running before it won't take long to destroy the new engine.
  9. have you tried starting the car with the ECU after flashing?
  10. Its a good setup. Its never slipped and since it's a full face organic it is easy to drive and has a wide engagement point. The pedal is really stiff though. I'm not running fender liners, which is something pretty shitty to give up, but I just try not to drive when it is wet or on dirty roads.
  11. I don't want to make driving the car a chore so I didn't go for super skinny tires. Their a good enough compromise. I was on 215's with the TDRs, so the grip is more, but the handling characteristics feel about the same. The DW900 injectors I'm using sit just a touch deeper in the fuel rail than the stock injectors, so the o-ring didn't fully seat in the manifold. I cut the stock mounting tabs off and welded some new ones to drop it about 1/4". Not exactly show car quality, but it was free and took me 15 minutes... On the right is the injector o-ring before lowering the rail, on the left is after.
  12. I also got some new wheels. Wrapped in some Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetric 2's, they're stock equipment on the Ford Focus RS in 235/45R18 so I was able to pick up a never mounted set on CL for $250. They're not the most aggressive street tire, but the ride is comfortable, the slip predictable and the grip good, and for the price I couldn't say no. I had to decommission my TDRs, which was unfortunate since I spent 15+ hours prepping and fixing them, and $180 on paint. I realized every wheel had a significant hop in it, even the wheel which I had only been running for 1 year and had never curbed. Also, I found 3 cracks on the inner rim on one wheel after painting and had already fixed two cracked spokes on another, only for them to re-break just a week after putting them on. I guess that's the price you pay for running 17lb wheels... I'm going to try and re-fix the spokes and keep them for some track days.
  13. Long time no update... I finally got around to putting some more work into the car, trying to get it ready for hitting the 1/4 this year. Last time I put the valve cover back together it was after taking it off 4 times in the span of a week and I didn't do the best job sealing it up, not to mention I used Permatex's anaerobic sealant (which I haven't had good luck with even when taking my time). I was losing about a quart every 800 miles, so I decided to take it back apart, do it right, and while I was in there add some free power. I measured 2 sets of cams from some heads I had in the shop and measured their lift. Intake - 30637410 - 8.38mm, 259° Exhaust - 8642712 - 9.04mm, 291° Duration was measured at .005", which I know isn't a standard anyone uses, so just take the measurements for the sake of comparison. One set was from an '04 R, the other from an '05 R and they turned out to be identical. I was hoping that the cams in my head were less aggressive, being that the head was originally from an '05 LPT engine, but they turned out to be the same. Not wanting to seal up the valve cover without doing anything performance related I decided to swap out my intake cam for an exhaust cam. In order to time the cam correctly I fabricated a new cam locking tool which would hold both cams in the same relative position to the Volvo 'base' position. I measured the peak lift on the intake cam relative to the base position for the tool and then rotated the exhaust cam to the same location and welded up a new locking tool. On the left is the angle from the base position to maximum lift on the intake cam, on the right is the exhaust cam in the intake cam's base position using the cam locking tool. Luckily my cam locking tool cam with two additional pieces that fit into the back of the cams, so I just welded one onto some 1/2" steel plate at the correct angle. Since I'm also controlling the VVT solenoids with M4.4 I swapped an intake VVT cam hub onto the exhaust cam. I measured the exhaust VVT hub as having 16.8º of range and the intake VVT hub at 28.3º. The VVT unit only advances the cam from its' base position, and knowing that I could now advance both cams almost 30º I decided to add 8º more static retard to the cams. With this much retard the engine had almost 0 compression until the VVT units pumped up. After some experimenting I decided that this was too much retard and wan't producing any more power so I set them back to their normal base position. At idle I fully advance both cams and the car idles very smoothly. I can actually reduce the idle speed to 700RPM without much degradation in idle quality as well. Based on the calibrated butt dyno V1.03 I measured a 18.437298445WHP increase in power from the cam and VVT hub swap. Seriously though, the difference was noticeable. My Aeromotive Stealth fuel pump died on me, which may have been due to the fuel filter element I was using. The fuel filter I bought only has cellulose filter media available which is not compatible with E85, so the filter had become very clogged, which I think led to the early demise of the pump. I'm currently looking for a 10 micron stainless element fuel filter, but haven't had much luck. I replaced the Aermotive with a Walbro 460LPH in tank and redid the wiring to 12AWG. I also redid the fuel pump wiring entry into the tank with a purpose made fuel cell bulkhead fitting. I used a 6 pin Deutsch DT series connector and split the power wires into four at the connector to negate any contact resistance. I know it was overkill, but I had a problem with melting the wiring on the Aeromotive and I didn't want to deal with that again. I'm working on adding the SAS pump to my crankcase breather system, turning on above a set load threshold and sucking through the catch can. I'm not sure it will do anything beneficial, but it won't take much work to implement so I figured why not. Next up is an intake manifold which I should be done fabricating in a week or so.
  14. 'V40 1K' Love it!
  15. 15995 SEK = $1826 USD For that price I'd rather have a Garrett, or a used EFR.