Tightmopedman9

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Tightmopedman9 last won the day on January 17

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About Tightmopedman9

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    ever been to the southern part of the gulf for the Bonita run?
  • Birthday 09/04/1989

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    Tightmopedman9

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    Denver, CO
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    NEC

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  1. Most of the cars I tune or work on have at least 1V less at the pump vs the battery at idle. Under load it goes down even more, I've seen 13V at the battery and 9V at the pump under load before. Re-wiring the pump is very simple. You just need to run a 10 or 12AWG direct from the battery to the trunk and get a 12V SPST relay (you can get them at radio shack). Run this battery wire to pin #30 of the relay. Run pin #87 direct to the fuel pump. Connect pin #86 to the black wire that was going to the fuel pump wiring before, connect pin #85 to the red wire. Connect the ground wire for the fuel pump directly to a solid body ground somewhere in the trunk. Cut the fuel pump wiring connector from a junk yard car so you don't have to modify your car's wiring at all. Pin #30 and #87 are interchangeable as are pin #86 and #85. The relay connects the wire from the battery to the fuel pump when there is 12V across pin #85 and #86. You're using the stock fuel pump wiring to act as this voltage signal.
  2. I recently discovered an error in the code, I need to update the file, and I'll reupload it when I make the correction
  3. You ever try and put down more than 400WHP on FWD? Shit, with even over 300WHP traction is terrible. I've never had a problem with my AWD, and being able to never break traction is an amazing advantage. Not to mention the handling characteristics of a multi-link rear end is much more predictable and neutral than the delta link setup. Replace the fuel pump ad bushings before putting in the subframe, and you probably won't have to worry about it for the rest of the lift of the car.
  4. Innovate's MTX-L gauge is shit. It was poorly engineered in many ways, one of them being that they pulse the heater circuit too slowly, causing large temperature swings of the sensing element, leading to premature failure. The new AEM X-series are worlds better, not in terms of response time and accuracy, but also sensor life.
  5. Why not just back the bolts off the brake master cylinder and slide 'er in? I bet it's faster than shaving the clutch master.
  6. Weird, I'll email it to you.
  7. I got this a little oddity a week or so back, a M4.4 ECU from a Renault Safrane with a B5244S, Bosch PN 0 261 204 012. I attached a copy of the .bin I pulled from the ECU. Paul in France sent it to me in the hopes that he could convert his Safrane to run COP and E85. All the components were there to run COP, and the software side seemed about the same as any M4.4 variant I've seen. It looks like a much more trimmed down version of code, probably because of it being NA and probably less emission restrictions. Renault Safrane B5244S - 0 261 204 012.BIN
  8. For the 960 .bin I have there is no single bit to change the transmission configuration. Do you know for a fact that all manual 960s came with an immobilizer?
  9. Change all values in the warm up factor tables to .01. then adjust for cold idle and cruising AFRs using the two warmup maps.
  10. That's what I was thinking from the beginning, problem is, if I I spent the PP the engine is coming out, and if the engine is coming out then I'm putting on a new head, cams, intake and exhaust manifold; something I wanted to put off for a few more months. In another bit of oddness, I had to back the car out of the shop, so I started it in reverse and after about 50' with my foot on the clutch, I was able to take it out of reverse and put it into 1st without a problem. Then I wasn't able to pull it out of first.
  11. '98 V70R with a M66C, Sachs 707 pressure plate and ACT full face organic clutch. Over 10k miles without a problem, then one day the clutch pedal no longer seems to disengage the clutch, despite no change in pedal feel. I bled the clutch, no bubbles, and no change in clutch behaviour. I checked the slave cylinder and found the bolts loose, tightened them and still no change. Then a few days later, it started working perfectly again. Fast forward 3 months and the same problem has come back. Car was sitting for a month, first start up and backing out of the garage was fine. Then suddenly, the clutch stopped working again. I found that I could get into gear if I depressed the pedal only about 1/4 of the way. I made up a very ghetto stop to see if maybe just altering the maximal pedal travel would fix the problem. I drove it around the block with the stop and all seemed fine until I took it back into the shop and worked on it for an hour. Now the clutch won't work no matter what I do. At first I thought that maybe the flywheel to pressure plate bolts had come loose, but I would think that wouldn't be an intermittent problem. If the slave cylinder was leaking down then it wouldn't make sense that the pedal is working at 1/4 depression instead of full. Just for clarification, the clutch pedal is not disengaging the clutch. When I press on the pedal and the car is running I can not get into gear. If I start the car with my foot on the pedal and in gear the car will start moving immediately and acts as if the clutch pedal was halfway engaged.
  12. I have a friend who has a set and wants $40. Text me.
  13. For my '05 XC I'm just going to do an R swap. K24, greens, 3" downpipe and a conservative sounding 2.5" exhaust, R brembos front and rear. I'm also going to add in a transmission cooler. When tuned I think I should be around the 270WHP mark, which I think will be fine for a comfortable daily.
  14. PM me and we can exchange e-mails. I can have him contact you directly about the 19t, if it is still for sale, which I believe it is.
  15. I would highly recommend replacing the springs and dampers on those coilovers. The stock dampers are much too weak for the provided spring rate and the springs are so thick that they have a minimal amount of travel before binding. I'd look into some #350 9" springs and Koni race inserts. The gland nut is easily removed with some heat to melt the glue and a tool can be made to unscrew them easily enough. The shocks don't require any modification to fit the Koni race inserts.