Tightmopedman9

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Tightmopedman9 last won the day on June 19

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About Tightmopedman9

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    ever been to the southern part of the gulf for the Bonita run?
  • Birthday 09/04/1989

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    Tightmopedman9
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    VASTtuning.com

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    Denver, CO
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  1. Do you want 300 horsepower at the crank or at the wheels? The difference between the two can be significant in terms of supporting mods needed. A 16t will get you to 300 crank horsepower with a full exhaust, blue/white injectors and an upgraded fuel pump. An upgraded intercooler certainly wouldn't hurt either. The above mods + a 19T or K24 would get you to 300 wheel horsepower. Replace the whites/blues with greens though. I would highly recommend running water methanol injection. I recommend the snow performance stage 1 kit to everyone - it's inexpensive and has everything you need. Also, a good tune custom suited to your mods and a tuner who is willing to help you troubleshoot mechanical issues along the way wouldn't be a bad idea 😉
  2. The MSD is equivalent to the factory Bosch coil, it's just much less expensive. If the dwell table is correctly configured for the MSD coil it performs well. 20G is a reference only to the compressor blade. There are many configuration options that exist with varying hotsides. Yes, a 8cm TD05 hotside, like the one you ran years ago, is too small, but you can get a 20G with a 10cm TD06SL2 or 8cm TD06H that would be a very good performing low 400WHP turbo.
  3. It is not possible to check the bore through the spark hole. You need a dial bore gauge, and you'll only get an accurate reading if you have a torque plate on the block when taking the measurement. Without any of the tools it'd be a ~$300 investment to be able to measure the bores accurately. It depends on how you define simpler. It would cost less, and might take less time, but it will be much more of a pain in the ass to assemble and clean everything. You can't bore the block unless you completely disassemble it, which includes removing the crank. There really is no compromise between convenience and quality when it comes to building an engine. Many people have swapped rods with the engine in the car, myself included. The thing is, it results in a far less than perfect outcome, so you might as well spend 50% more to just do it right the first time. The 850R clutch kit (pressure plate and disc) will hold up to 400WHP, probably a little more. I ran it on my own car when it was making 415WHP. It would slip when shifting aggressively from 2-3rd occasionally. The R clutch kit won't work with a smaller TD04HL turbo though, as these turbos generate lots of low RPM torque which causes the clutch to slip. The Sachs 707 pressure plate with the 850R disc is your cheapest option for reliably holding 400WHP+. They're dyno proven to gain 10-15WHP. It does, in fact it's much easier to swap in because the pedal assembly is two pieces, unlike the 850 assembly which you can't separate.
  4. Yes you can replace the rods without pulling the motor, but it is a pain to check clearances and make sure everything is done correctly with the block in the car. The factory pistons can handle well over 400WHP so you don't need to replace them. Every whiteblock motor I've torn down has had cylinder walls worn well beyond spec, so I wouldn't recommend buying pistons for the stock bore size. I've run multiple engines over or near the 400WHP with completely stock internals. It is running on the edge of what is safe, but it can be done. I'd recommend sourcing a new engine block and building it out of the car, meanwhile you can get your current stock block up to 400WHP and when/if it bends a rod you can throw in the new built motor. For the engine you build out of the car you'll want to bore the cylinder walls to get them back into spec. I have yet see a motor that came from a running car that needed more than .5mm of an overbore. You'll need a torque plate to keep the bores from distorting when boring the block. I have one I can rent you that comes with a headgasket and head bolts. If you bore the block you'll need new pistons for the larger bore size and if you use new pistons you might as well order a custom set and get them spec'd to use the longer rod and crank combination. You can get 147mm rods with the tapered small end for cheap, and you can pull a 93.2mm crank out of a 2.5L RN block or RNC block. This will give you 2.4L of displacement and the preferable longer rod/stroke ratio. Fuel Pump The DW200 can support over 400WHP on gasoline. If you use the DW300 it can flow too much at idle and oversaturate the return line, causing the fuel pressure at idle to be higher than regulated by the FPR. Fuel Injectors For over 400WHP on gasoline I'd recommend the DW800 injectors, if you want to run E85 then their DW900 (1000cc @ 3bar) are a good choice. I have a dealer account with DW and can get a pump and/or injectors for you if you'd like. 500cc would be too small. Fuel rail The factory '98 fuel rail is good for a lot of power, well over 500WHP. NA Manifold and Throttle Body The NA throttle body doesn't net you more power, it just changes the throttle response. The NA intake manifold is used just so that you don't have to open the throttle body opening on a turbo manifold. MAF You'll need to upgrade your MAF housing. The MAF uses a heated resistor to measure the amount of air flowing past it. The more the resistor is cooled the more voltage will flow through the resistor. The most voltage that can flow through the resistor is 5V, so once the velocity of the incoming air reaches a point at which the resistor is cooled enough to flow 5V, the ECU can no longer register a greater amount of air entering the engine. To overcome this limit you can increase the size of the MAF housing, thus decreasing the velocity of the airflow and increasing the limit at which the resistor flows 5v. On a MAF housing this limit is 826kg/hr, or about 250WHP. For 400WHP you'd need to run a 3.5" outer diameter housing, like this one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-5-OD-MAF-Mass-Air-Flow-Housing-Air-Straightener-for-VW-MK3-GTI-BMW-M62-Volvo/253224903302?hash=item3af5616286:g:63sAAOSwyUFcB9z3:sc:USPSPriority!80219!US!-1 Spark plugs The NGK BKR7E is a one step colder than stock plug and is an inexpensive copper plug easily available at almost every auto parts store. They make a platinum and iridium equivalent as well. Turbo The GT3071R is a large turbo for 400WHP. It can do closer to 550WHP. If you want to stay with Garrett the GTX2867R would be a much better fit for 400WHP. With that said I've been putting together a TD06 20G 'kit' that could do a bit over 400WHP. It comes with a Kinugawa turbo, a 'R' manifold milled flat for the standard T3 flange and studs enlarged to M10, stud kit, oil and water lines and a downpipe adapter. This turbo would have an integrated CBV so you wouldn't have to worry about adding you own. It also would be internally gated so you wouldn't have to worry about adding and external wastegate. The kit is $1800. Clutch and pressure plate I would recommend a Sachs 707 pressure plate with a 850R clutch disc. It's a proven setup to over 650WHP and drives great on the street. It usually costs less than a SPEC setup that is rated to the same equivalent power, and SPEC has a bit of a poor reputation in the Volvo world. You mentioned a BOV - you never want to run a vent to atmosphere on a MAF equipped car. Once air passes through the MAF sensor the ECU assumes that all that air will go into the engine and calculates the amount of fuel needed based on it. If you vent the air out of the intake tract, like this BOV, then the car will run rich. When you are under boost at part throttle the BOV will open a little bit. When this happens the car will start to run rich, then the fuel trims will start to intervene and will pull fuel to make the car run leaner. As soon as you back off the throttle the BOV will close, but the fuel trims will still be negative, so now the car will be lean. If you want to run the car on gasoline I'd highly recommend running water methanol injection. The stage 1 snow performance kit is all you need. It greatly helps reduce the likliehood of knock and can allow you to run a lot more boost and ignition timing than would otherwise be possible.
  5. I really appreciate the work, I've been working on a routine to log the cam angle, but haven't made much progress - this will really speed things up since cross referencing the DAMOS gets pretty tedious after only a few lookups. I'd like to monitor cam angle for VVT purposes. NVM on the following stuff, P1.6 is the external clock output. I'm assuming that the cam signal is tied to P1.6. In Reset_0 the status of P1.6 is moved into r_FLAG1.7 (camshaft level with status 'found_located' (PH_OLD)). In the crankshaft triggered interrupt, IEX3,there is a JB based on r_FLAGBM.4 (phase change not yet recognized. (ZDGVERB)), if this bit is set then the status of P1.6 is checked. Since P1.6 is tied to IEX6 and IEX6 isn't used, I assume you could write a bit of code that moves the crank angle to a spare XRAM when IEX6 is triggered. Based on the sab80c517a datasheet it looks like the interrupt would fire at the rising and falling edge, so you could poll the status of P1.6 and have a separate XRAM depending on which edge triggered the interrupt. This would allow you to see the relative motion of the cam angle when triggering the VVT solenoids. I'm having trouble finding the variable that contains the crank angle in .75º degree increments, if it even exists.
  6. Thanks very much for that! I've spent a lot of time in IDA and I tried for a little while to import RAM variable names, but couldn't figure out an automated way to do it so I gave up on it. Did you write a script, or is there some easy way I'm totally missing?
  7. That cable you linked is the incorrect cable. You need a VAG-COM cable, which is a 'dumb' cable which does nothing to the signal between the OBDII port and computer. Make sure that you get a VAG-COM cable with FTDI chip.
  8. Saw Brandon off today, I'm glad to see the car finally leave, but a little sad that I won't be able to work on it anymore. Really makes realize how much I miss my own car. Who's up next?
  9. Sorry for the confusion, I typed up that response hastily and didn't really pay attention to what I posted. I was able to find my notes from the 'fix' and the problem was that the compressor would click on once, and immediately turn off, never to turn on again until the car was restarted. Maybe it was just a problem with their AC pressure sensor malfunctioning, but they did mention that they tested high and low side pressure when the problem was occurring and both were in spec. Probably disabling the pressure error shut off isn't the best course of action, but if you want to do so you can set 0xCAC6 & 0xCAC7 to 00. It could be that you need to increase the cold start factor at higher coolant temps, while leaving the lower coolant temp values the same.
  10. Reduce your acceleration enrichment at low coolant temps, there is another accel enrichment table at 0xCFA4, same size and axes as the other tables. Also, reduce the values in afterstart enrichment at 0xD8B4, single axis table, 16 values long. It is impossible to get the 850 MAF to sit in the center of the 540i housing, it is off by more than .75". I stopped recommending this housing because it is a pain in the ass to tune. Avinit, I like the hole in your board so that you can solder the pins to the board in situ, very smart.
  11. I hate how the engine always rotates when using the harbor freight support straight across the engine. That's a good idea for the center support. Where'd you get it?
  12. That's just for the amount of fuel injected when cranking.