Tightmopedman9

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Tightmopedman9 last won the day on April 19

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About Tightmopedman9

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    ever been to the southern part of the gulf for the Bonita run?
  • Birthday 09/04/1989

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    Tightmopedman9
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    VASTtuning.com

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    Denver, CO
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    NEC

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  1. Best way to adjust the BOV is to get rid of it... With a MAF based car it will never run right with a vent to atmosphere BOV.
  2. http://vibrantperformance.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=1022_1300_1347_1474&products_id=3425&osCsid=71d9037f55f1d5a8718795a3697b53ad
  3. Dang, I've been misinformed for a while about that. Thanks for the clarification. That timing map is much too advanced at higher load. With your setup you should be running about 7º timing at full load/3800RPM and tapering up to maybe 11º at redline. Without having feedback on knock you won't know what's too advanced though. Sorry to keep shit talking, but you need to ditch Turbo Tuner. It is a dumbed down GUI overlay of some very basic M4.4 maps and doesn't give you a complete picture of the parameters you need to control to tune properly. The hardware inside the ECU is a Moates Ostrich 2.0 EEPROM emulator which is directly compatible with TunerPro. You can make the switch from the Turbo Tuner interface and switch to TunerPro, using the files provided in the M4.4 wikia. You'll be able to actively datalog and record, and monitor parameters like knock count and you can hook up your wideband so that you can datalog it's output along with everything else. VVT control can be as simple as a RPM window trigger, but I wrote some code which uses the pre-heaters for the O2 sensors to control the cams independently, so you don't need any additional hardware to control the cams.
  4. You'll benefit from the increased stroke length and displacement on the R engine. Also the port geometry is preferable, the switch to smaller valve stems happened in '05, but iirc some '04s got the 6mm valve stems, just depends on mfg. date. Control of the VVT solenoids can help speed up the boost onset, and helps with low RPM torque. The engine will be limited by the 83mm should you ever choose to increase power output past ~350WHP. The engine only has 6,000 miles on it?! Out of curiosity, could you post a picture of your timing map? Also, I'm not sure if Turbo Tuner upgraded their GUI, but can you view knock count or ignition retard per cylinder?
  5. At 3 bar: oranges = 315cc whites = 345cc blues = 345cc
  6. any details on that hose connector? Did you weld it or just press fit?
  7. Its a brand new turbo and the problem was happening with the last turbo... The shaft is tight. Oil level is right where it should be. The car has to be running for 10+ minutes to start smoking, if it was a valve guide it would start smoking immediately, or at least a lot sooner. I'll change the oil, I don't think that'll fix the problem but it probably needs it anyways. Yes, it does have a cat, and I too thought it might be residual oil, but the smoke is so bad that I'm doubtful its just residual oil burning out. How long was eventually? There is an oil pressure gauge on the car, and the pressure is within spec.
  8. Don't take the driveshaft out. The AWD system will be fine on the dyno, and the rear wheels will get as much drive as the fronts. The VC will keep the speed of the front wheels the same as the rear wheels.
  9. About 6 months ago I installed a brand new OEM K24 on a 850, along with a lot of other parts. The car drove fine and the customer put about 200 miles on it before it sat in an audio shop for a few months. Last month I got a call from him saying that the car was smoking heavily, so bad in fact that it was undriveable. The audio shop had moved it in and out of the shop a few times to shuffle things around, but said they let it idle for a few minutes everytime they moved it. I looked at the car at the audio shop and noticed oil pooling where the wastegate arm enters the turbine housing and at the downpipe flange. The car got towed to my shop and I ended up taking the turbo out, taking it apart and noticing a small nick in the compressor side oil seal ring groove. I expected there to be a lot more wrong with the turbo, considering there was a large amount of oil in both the intake and exhaust. I got a new turbo through an RMA and the car is still smoking as bad as before. I've checked the crankcase ventilation system, and run the car without the oil cap on and dipstick tube popped, still smoking. I checked the turbo oil return line and entrance to the block for obstructions, they were clear. A brand new OEM oil return line was used. I tried a .061" oil restrictor just for shits, and still smoking. The turbo is being fed by a -4AN line. I have a OEM K24 pulled from a S60R, as well as a stock oil feed line and a B5254T4 engine (S60R). There is no restriction in the block or line, and the restrictor in the turbo appears to be the same size in both turbos. The car in question:
  10. Just did this on a customer's car last night. The left bolt stripped on me and he had a radiator with some ghetto rigged connectors that had to be modified to get the lines to fit correctly. If it hadn't been for those two things it would have been a 1 hour job, but I was working with a lift. I replaced the left bolt with a 10mm bolt, which made placing the first bolt much easier as it would stay on the end of my socket. I tried to replace the bolt on the right with a 10mm too, but there isn't enough space for a 10mm socket in that spot. I used 4 dabs of superglue to hold the gasket in place, one in each opposite corner and two in the middle of the long sides. Got it on first try.
  11. I'm throwing around the idea of upgrading from my current 7064 setup to a 7670. I'm curious to know if anyone would be interested in purchasing my current 7064 setup, with the majority of things needed for the install on a P80 AWD. In the kit would be: EFR 7064 Turbo, .83A/R T3, ceramic coated turbine housing from full-race.com Downpipe for P80 AWD (should fit FWD as well) 'R' Exhaust manifold shaved and studs enlarged to M10 OTE intercooler pipe Oil feed line Oil drain line (compatible with bevel gear) Water lines 3.5" aluminum intake tube with integrated 4" MAF and honey comb element air straightener M4.4 tune, with the included support to get you fully running Just the turbo itself is $2,100 new. I'd want $2,500 for the full kit. Supporting mods you'd need would be injectors, fuel pump, intercooler upgrade, cat back exhaust and at least forged rods.
  12. I use a dab of superglue to hold my gaskets on. You can use a small enough amount so that it doesn't interfere with the sealing and it will affix the gasket a lot more firmly than grease/RTV.
  13. On the new pump that you got, the piece on the bottom, was it fixed to the pump? Or was it removable?
  14. Most of the cars I tune or work on have at least 1V less at the pump vs the battery at idle. Under load it goes down even more, I've seen 13V at the battery and 9V at the pump under load before. Re-wiring the pump is very simple. You just need to run a 10 or 12AWG direct from the battery to the trunk and get a 12V SPST relay (you can get them at radio shack). Run this battery wire to pin #30 of the relay. Run pin #87 direct to the fuel pump. Connect pin #86 to the black wire that was going to the fuel pump wiring before, connect pin #85 to the red wire. Connect the ground wire for the fuel pump directly to a solid body ground somewhere in the trunk. Cut the fuel pump wiring connector from a junk yard car so you don't have to modify your car's wiring at all. Pin #30 and #87 are interchangeable as are pin #86 and #85. The relay connects the wire from the battery to the fuel pump when there is 12V across pin #85 and #86. You're using the stock fuel pump wiring to act as this voltage signal.
  15. I recently discovered an error in the code, I need to update the file, and I'll reupload it when I make the correction