Tightmopedman9

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  • Birthday 09/04/1989

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  1. In theory, the 9 blade turbine wheel should present much less restriction to exhaust flow, which is a major bottleneck for any TD04HL turbo. However, lowering the blade count also decreases the thermodynamic efficiency of the turbo, so less energy is extracted from the exhaust stream. I've found that swapping to a 9 blade turbine wheel only increases maximum airflow by ~50kg/hr (5%), but increases the RPM at which max boost is produced by almost 1200RPM. I don't think the trade off is worthwhile, but maybe to some, ~15WHP is worth a slower spooling turbo. The 11 blade wheel design makes the compressor more efficient at higher pressure ratio vs the 6 + 6 (or 7 + 7) wheel which makes the compressor more efficient at greater air flow. I'm not saying that the 11 blade design doesn't have merits - an 11 blade wheel with extended tips and a reduced hub bore will definitely produce more power than the cast wheel. However, with a 19t on a 2.3L, the increased efficiency from an 11 blade occurs in an area of the compressor map which the turbo will never operate in. An 11 blade 19t compressor wheel would be better suited for a smaller displacement motor, like a 1.8L, which will require a higher boost pressure for the same equivalent air flow. ARD marketed the 11 blade compressor wheel as a 'spool control wheel', which is just pure bullshit. Changing the blade count of the compressor wheel isn't going to do shit to spool.
  2. I wouldn't say that. I have tuned cars which produce up to 22ms of load. For those cars I'm definitely programming a different ignition angle at 22ms vs 12.24ms. Also, if you want to run target load you won't be able to if you're hitting the load cap.
  3. Get this one with a 11 blade turbine wheel and billet compressor wheel. Send an email and ask/confirm that they give you the 6 + 6 billet compressor wheel, not the 11 blade compressor wheel. http://shopping.kinugawaturbo.com/turbochargervolvos70850td04hl-19t-711bladesturbinewheelspoolfaster.aspx What bent rods was people slapping a 19t on, controlling boost with a MBC and not tuning. Turns out that 20º of timing and factory lean fueling at 20psi will bend rods! Who know?!? If you tune the ECU properly you can get 20psi at 2500RPM and the rods will be fine...
  4. I really appreciate the work, I've been working on a routine to log the cam angle, but haven't made much progress - this will really speed things up since cross referencing the DAMOS gets pretty tedious after only a few lookups. I'd like to monitor cam angle for VVT purposes. NVM on the following stuff, P1.6 is the external clock output. I'm assuming that the cam signal is tied to P1.6. In Reset_0 the status of P1.6 is moved into r_FLAG1.7 (camshaft level with status 'found_located' (PH_OLD)). In the crankshaft triggered interrupt, IEX3,there is a JB based on r_FLAGBM.4 (phase change not yet recognized. (ZDGVERB)), if this bit is set then the status of P1.6 is checked. Since P1.6 is tied to IEX6 and IEX6 isn't used, I assume you could write a bit of code that moves the crank angle to a spare XRAM when IEX6 is triggered. Based on the sab80c517a datasheet it looks like the interrupt would fire at the rising and falling edge, so you could poll the status of P1.6 and have a separate XRAM depending on which edge triggered the interrupt. This would allow you to see the relative motion of the cam angle when triggering the VVT solenoids. I'm having trouble finding the variable that contains the crank angle in .75º degree increments, if it even exists.
  5. Thanks very much for that! I've spent a lot of time in IDA and I tried for a little while to import RAM variable names, but couldn't figure out an automated way to do it so I gave up on it. Did you write a script, or is there some easy way I'm totally missing?
  6. That cable you linked is the incorrect cable. You need a VAG-COM cable, which is a 'dumb' cable which does nothing to the signal between the OBDII port and computer. Make sure that you get a VAG-COM cable with FTDI chip.
  7. Saw Brandon off today, I'm glad to see the car finally leave, but a little sad that I won't be able to work on it anymore. Really makes realize how much I miss my own car. Who's up next?
  8. Sorry for the confusion, I typed up that response hastily and didn't really pay attention to what I posted. I was able to find my notes from the 'fix' and the problem was that the compressor would click on once, and immediately turn off, never to turn on again until the car was restarted. Maybe it was just a problem with their AC pressure sensor malfunctioning, but they did mention that they tested high and low side pressure when the problem was occurring and both were in spec. Probably disabling the pressure error shut off isn't the best course of action, but if you want to do so you can set 0xCAC6 & 0xCAC7 to 00. It could be that you need to increase the cold start factor at higher coolant temps, while leaving the lower coolant temp values the same.
  9. Reduce your acceleration enrichment at low coolant temps, there is another accel enrichment table at 0xCFA4, same size and axes as the other tables. Also, reduce the values in afterstart enrichment at 0xD8B4, single axis table, 16 values long. It is impossible to get the 850 MAF to sit in the center of the 540i housing, it is off by more than .75". I stopped recommending this housing because it is a pain in the ass to tune. Avinit, I like the hole in your board so that you can solder the pins to the board in situ, very smart.
  10. I hate how the engine always rotates when using the harbor freight support straight across the engine. That's a good idea for the center support. Where'd you get it?
  11. @ejenner2004 is ME7. None of this thread pertains to your car.
  12. Why not use the ACT disc? That's what I used and it is a much beefier disc than the SD693.