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Everything posted by Tightmopedman9

  1. Remember that the evaporative emissions routine was removed by Mercuric to make space for logging, mapswitching and other functions.
  2. Nice to know someone took apart the ECU I sent them to post pictures online. And then some else posting the .pdf I send out with COP instructions on the web 14.5kg/hr when at 840RPM and ECT > 82C, if on an automatic the car must be in neutral.
  3. Don't forget that Reglersteigung P and Reglersteigung I both have upper bank values, don't forget to have these values match when fiddling with the values.
  4. Anyone running a 608 .bin on an automatic with the transmission select bit changed to auto? Have you noticed an occasional P0130/EFI-212? I've noticed that on some of my 608 tunes for autos this DTC will be set seemingly randomly, even when the O2 sensor is operating well within spec.
  5. have you tried starting the car with the ECU after flashing?
  6. Its a good setup. Its never slipped and since it's a full face organic it is easy to drive and has a wide engagement point. The pedal is really stiff though. I'm not running fender liners, which is something pretty shitty to give up, but I just try not to drive when it is wet or on dirty roads.
  7. I don't want to make driving the car a chore so I didn't go for super skinny tires. Their a good enough compromise. I was on 215's with the TDRs, so the grip is more, but the handling characteristics feel about the same. The DW900 injectors I'm using sit just a touch deeper in the fuel rail than the stock injectors, so the o-ring didn't fully seat in the manifold. I cut the stock mounting tabs off and welded some new ones to drop it about 1/4". Not exactly show car quality, but it was free and took me 15 minutes... On the right is the injector o-ring before lowering the rail, on the left is after.
  8. I also got some new wheels. Wrapped in some Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetric 2's, they're stock equipment on the Ford Focus RS in 235/45R18 so I was able to pick up a never mounted set on CL for $250. They're not the most aggressive street tire, but the ride is comfortable, the slip predictable and the grip good, and for the price I couldn't say no. I had to decommission my TDRs, which was unfortunate since I spent 15+ hours prepping and fixing them, and $180 on paint. I realized every wheel had a significant hop in it, even the wheel which I had only been running for 1 year and had never curbed. Also, I found 3 cracks on the inner rim on one wheel after painting and had already fixed two cracked spokes on another, only for them to re-break just a week after putting them on. I guess that's the price you pay for running 17lb wheels... I'm going to try and re-fix the spokes and keep them for some track days.
  9. Long time no update... I finally got around to putting some more work into the car, trying to get it ready for hitting the 1/4 this year. Last time I put the valve cover back together it was after taking it off 4 times in the span of a week and I didn't do the best job sealing it up, not to mention I used Permatex's anaerobic sealant (which I haven't had good luck with even when taking my time). I was losing about a quart every 800 miles, so I decided to take it back apart, do it right, and while I was in there add some free power. I measured 2 sets of cams from some heads I had in the shop and measured their lift. Intake - 30637410 - 8.38mm, 259° Exhaust - 8642712 - 9.04mm, 291° Duration was measured at .005", which I know isn't a standard anyone uses, so just take the measurements for the sake of comparison. One set was from an '04 R, the other from an '05 R and they turned out to be identical. I was hoping that the cams in my head were less aggressive, being that the head was originally from an '05 LPT engine, but they turned out to be the same. Not wanting to seal up the valve cover without doing anything performance related I decided to swap out my intake cam for an exhaust cam. In order to time the cam correctly I fabricated a new cam locking tool which would hold both cams in the same relative position to the Volvo 'base' position. I measured the peak lift on the intake cam relative to the base position for the tool and then rotated the exhaust cam to the same location and welded up a new locking tool. On the left is the angle from the base position to maximum lift on the intake cam, on the right is the exhaust cam in the intake cam's base position using the cam locking tool. Luckily my cam locking tool cam with two additional pieces that fit into the back of the cams, so I just welded one onto some 1/2" steel plate at the correct angle. Since I'm also controlling the VVT solenoids with M4.4 I swapped an intake VVT cam hub onto the exhaust cam. I measured the exhaust VVT hub as having 16.8º of range and the intake VVT hub at 28.3º. The VVT unit only advances the cam from its' base position, and knowing that I could now advance both cams almost 30º I decided to add 8º more static retard to the cams. With this much retard the engine had almost 0 compression until the VVT units pumped up. After some experimenting I decided that this was too much retard and wan't producing any more power so I set them back to their normal base position. At idle I fully advance both cams and the car idles very smoothly. I can actually reduce the idle speed to 700RPM without much degradation in idle quality as well. Based on the calibrated butt dyno V1.03 I measured a 18.437298445WHP increase in power from the cam and VVT hub swap. Seriously though, the difference was noticeable. My Aeromotive Stealth fuel pump died on me, which may have been due to the fuel filter element I was using. The fuel filter I bought only has cellulose filter media available which is not compatible with E85, so the filter had become very clogged, which I think led to the early demise of the pump. I'm currently looking for a 10 micron stainless element fuel filter, but haven't had much luck. I replaced the Aermotive with a Walbro 460LPH in tank and redid the wiring to 12AWG. I also redid the fuel pump wiring entry into the tank with a purpose made fuel cell bulkhead fitting. I used a 6 pin Deutsch DT series connector and split the power wires into four at the connector to negate any contact resistance. I know it was overkill, but I had a problem with melting the wiring on the Aeromotive and I didn't want to deal with that again. I'm working on adding the SAS pump to my crankcase breather system, turning on above a set load threshold and sucking through the catch can. I'm not sure it will do anything beneficial, but it won't take much work to implement so I figured why not. Next up is an intake manifold which I should be done fabricating in a week or so.
  10. any details on that hose connector? Did you weld it or just press fit?
  11. I recently discovered an error in the code, I need to update the file, and I'll reupload it when I make the correction
  12. Innovate's MTX-L gauge is shit. It was poorly engineered in many ways, one of them being that they pulse the heater circuit too slowly, causing large temperature swings of the sensing element, leading to premature failure. The new AEM X-series are worlds better, not in terms of response time and accuracy, but also sensor life.
  13. I got this a little oddity a week or so back, a M4.4 ECU from a Renault Safrane with a B5244S, Bosch PN 0 261 204 012. I attached a copy of the .bin I pulled from the ECU. Paul in France sent it to me in the hopes that he could convert his Safrane to run COP and E85. All the components were there to run COP, and the software side seemed about the same as any M4.4 variant I've seen. It looks like a much more trimmed down version of code, probably because of it being NA and probably less emission restrictions. Renault Safrane B5244S - 0 261 204 012.BIN
  14. Change all values in the warm up factor tables to .01. then adjust for cold idle and cruising AFRs using the two warmup maps.
  15. Do you have a picture of the inside of the immo unit? Sorry, I'm not familiar with them at all since we dont them in the US.
  16. I could change the immo code in an immobilizer related .Bin to match your immobilizer code. The only problem would be finding your immo code...
  17. Everything has to stay in the same absolute and relative spot. Functions call on one another by referencing either a specific location or by specifying a specific amount of code to jump forwards or backwards. If you move any code around, or remove something, you can not move anything else in the file, unless you change the call to reference the new location.
  18. Yeah that would work, although it might be easier to combine an off the shelf logic level shifter and bluetooth board, rather than making your own circuit with the MC33660. You don't arduino for anything as the bluetooth will just be a transparent link. Although if you did get an arduino board you could piggyback some additional sensors into the datalogging routine.
  19. If you can find a simple OBDII bluetooth pass through device, that would work. I took apart an old ELM327 and traced pin 7 from the OBDII socket, then cut the trace and connected it directly to the serial TX line of the dongle.
  20. There serial channel is initialized to a set baud rate by default, so I would send the initialization byte at this baud rate, which would then disable OBDII and re-initialize the serial channel at 125K baud. At that point communication from the PC would be set to continue at 125K baud.
  21. I'm working on re-coding the logging routine to enable simultaneous functionality of both logging and OBDII. I don't have much experience with communication protocols, so I feel I'm a bit over my head. My hope is that I can integrate a simple check into the serial 0 interrupt. I made a simple routine within the serial 0 interrupt; if OBDII mode is not enabled (RAM_27.5 & RAM_23.3 = 0) then check if the incoming byte is equal to the logging start byte, if so, disable the serial interrupt and initialize the serial channel at 125K baud. The problem is, I'm not sure what the initial setting for the baud rate is, I know M4.4 is setup for ISO9141-2 slow init, which specifies 5 baud, but i have had any luck testing my routine at 5 baud. I've also tried at 4800 and 9600 baud with no luck. I'm not sure if the problem is with the routine itself or if the problem is due to the incorrect baud rate. I plan on making a small routine which sends out a single character every 1ms, so then I can scope the output and determine the baud.
  22. Just re do the lines, the stock 5/16" lines won't cut it with the 7064