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Everything posted by Tightmopedman9

  1. Why not beep based on KRCOUNT instead of BITS? You could have a variable based pitch based on the number of detonation events vs time or perhaps a different pitch during multiple cylinder knock events.
  2. my350z.com/forum/vq35hr/405542-dynocom-vs-mustang-dyno-vs-dynojet.html
  3. Except for at peak torque on low octane fuels, the ignition angle for maximum brake torque is rarely equal to the ignition angle for the onset of knock. In areas of low to mid load the difference in ignition angles between maximum power and knock can be drastic. The only way to accurately tune an ignition table in conditions in which MBT is not produced at the onset of knock, is to use a dyno. Without a dyno, you should leave the low/mid areas of the ignition map mostly alone. Tuning the high load areas of the map is easy for most, since you just start at a low ignition value and increase until you reach knock. For those who use E85 and a large turbo it is important to use a dyno, since MBT can be reached well before knock occurs. Also, why would you use BITS? KRCOUNT is much simpler to use, and contains the number of knock events since the last dataframe, unlike BITS. Unfortunately, at the present time, detecting abnormal combustion is not possible before its' occurrence. However, an ion sensing system (such as that found on the early SAAB Trionic) can detect much more minute knock events than our piezo sensors. This earlier warning prevents many of the problems that stem from the so called 'hysteresis of knock'. Are you making a general statement? I'm not sure why you would use a microphone when you already have a very well engineered system specifically for detecting the salient engine noise that occurs from knock. The shape of the ignition map is dictated by a mix of mostly emissions requirements. This is obvious when comparing the ignition maps of the same engine in different markets. Comparing against ME7 ignition maps is also very handy, although a little harder to parse given their multiple ignition maps and conditional use. It is my bet that Volvo designed the optimal ignition map based on power production. Then using that map as a base, made modifications to the areas that needed it, based on emissions requirements.
  4. Post a .bin and .xdl. As has been discussed earlier, don't use the P-part .bin, just use a normal .bin and zero out the P-part and KFP2 factor in the .bin.
  5. Just have them check that they're within spec for size and out of round. If you just give them to them they'll know what to do. You can find the spec for bore diameter and out of round in VIDA.
  6. Try zero'ing the 'delta ignition angle at AC on' map. That is the only map I know to add timing at non-zero TPS values. I've never seen actual timing greater than requested timing, but I always zero this map out, so I'm not sure if this is the cause.
  7. Switching the polarity of the crank sensor is just a matter of popping out the pins at the connector and reversing them, but for $75 shipped you got a good deal
  8. You just need a single mass flywheel, came on every manual 850 produced. You can buy one for less than $50 from most any junkyard...
  9. Very cool! Would you mind giving a quick and dirty overview of how the process works? I've been thinking of a few routines in which two way communication would be necessary.
  10. I need more sensors in my engine bay, it is on my to-do list. With that said, I don't think I'll ever invest in three pressure sensors before the turbo. The plan is 3 IAT sensors, pre-turbo, post-turbo and post-intercooler. Along with a pre-intercooler MAP sensor and an exhaust gas pressure sensor. It is not a china intercooler, it is DO88. Well I will agree with you that crank horsepower is more relevant for direct comparison, it isn't exactly practical. I have no engine dyno, nor the desire to remove the engine for testing (at this point at least). So I will base comparisons on the only way I have to directly measure power, at the wheels. I am still on stock cams, I wanted to see how much power I could get from a 100% stock head setup (cams, intake, exhaust). I can already tell that the effciency is dropping immensely, and I will be upgrading cam shafts shortly. I am running 13.5º at peak VE, increasing to 17.25º at 7500RPM. I haven't had the car on the dyno yet, so I've stayed at these timing levels until I can fine tune reaching MBT. With a stock head setup do you really think that MBT is as far advanced as 20º+?
  11. I used the Borgwarner 'matchbot', a very nifty program. It automatically calculates PR using altitude as an input, not exactly 100% accurate, but good enough. I do not have a wheel speed sensor, but I would assume I am overspeeding the turbo a bit past 6000RPM, however I think the matchbot program is a bit conservative. Also, with a stock head I do not think that the actual airflow is approaching the theoretically calculated amount from the matchbot. Do you mean crank HP, if so, yes it's probably around 550chp. However, with the AWD system intact it's probably loosing up to 30% on its' way to the ground.
  12. From the ashes a fire shall be woken...
  13. Thanks for the compliments, but to be honest I'm a little disappointed by the current performance level. I had expected to be around 480whp when fully tuned on E85, but the power feels to be around 430whp. For next summer I will be building a RN 'R' head with a medium port job, ENEM cams, autotech retainers and springs, tubular exhaust manifold and intake manifold. I'm tossing around the idea of pairing this with a 10:1 2.3L block, but am currently undecided. By the way, this run was made using rudimentary VVT control through M4.4, switching the cams from 10º of advance to 10º retard at 4000RPM. I have not. I don't have any pulls till 130, but 60-100MPH is 4.85 seconds (very) slightly uphill. I haven't done a leak down test yet. This is a compressor map from that pull, as you can see I go very far off the map past 6000RPM. Interseting, none of the pictures in the thread at all? From all of my computers they appear just fine.
  14. I did some code investigation on warmup maps today, and thought I might give a little breakdown to the flow of the warmup map enrichment. There are two temperature setpoints TMFWLU (0xC921) and TMFWLO (0xC922) which dicate which of the 3 warm-up factor maps to use for that drive cycle. If the coolant temperature at startup is under TMFWLU (stock setting is -10C) then the length 16 map at 0xD914 is used, if the startup coolant temp is between TMFWLU and TMFWLO (16C) then the length 16 map at 0xD934 is used, if the coolant temp is above both TMFWLU and TMFWLO then the map at 0xD924 is used. The warm-up factor maps are multiplied with the two 8x8 maps at 0xDE04 (idle) or 0xDDC4 (load). Which of the two maps is used is detemined by RAM_20.1, which indicates 'recognized idling'. I haven't worked through the entire routine yet, but I believe this combined factor is then used as a multiplier against the injector constant. When upgrading to much larger injectors, the stock enrichment maps give way too much enrichment. I recommend setting both TMFWLU and TMFWLO to their lowest setting, so that the only the warmup factor map at 0xD924 is used. Then multiply this entire map by .2 and use the idle and load warmup maps to achieve a slightly richer than stoich warmup AFR at idle and load.
  15. I think it may have been an oil pressure related issue and the VVT hubs were clacking until an adequate oil pressure had been built up. Although that doesn't really explain the noise going away and then popping back up a few minutes later. I just didn't feel comfortable leaving the car running long enough with the thought that there might be some foreign chunk of metal floating around. This is the Volvo tool for checking valve lash:
  16. I had motivation to drop the pan because I bought Hussein's crank scraper, Focus RS oil cooler and S60R baffled oil pan. The inlet coolant port on the Focus RS oil is rotated vs the stock cooler. Hussein elected to bend his stock coolant pipes. I decided to cut and re-weld the inlet. Stock configuration: Hussein's setup: Re-weld: I also redid the catch can setup, before it vented to atmosphere via two large filters. This allowed for a lot of in cabin smell and made me and my passengers quite nauseous after a short drive. I added a E-vac scavenger from Vibrant into the downpipe. I then added a checkvalve in line (NAPA 2-29000) to prevent backfires from pressurizing the crankcase. Since the Vibrant is only a 10AN fitting and I have two 10AN and one 12AN into my breather box I wanted to add an additional outlet. I welded a 3/4NPT pipe nipple to the intake tube and placed another check valve in line. This check valve will prevent negative pressure from the venturi in the exhaust from sucking intake air in, instead of crankcase gases. However, it will open up as soon as there is any positive pressure in the crankcase. With this setup I get -.3psi above 1000RPM until redline at 24psi. Not exactly an insane amount of vacuum, but at least there is no positive pressure, and I don't have to smell crank case gasses. Some overdue pictures of the torque rod I re-purposed from an EVO and my Mercedes projector retrofits into C70 jewels.
  17. First thing I did was take the pan off and inspect. That's when I took the picture of the keeper on top of the oil pan. I rotated the crank plenty of times. Never ran into any resistance. I got her all back together, started her up and the noise was still there. Kicked some things around the garage, cleaned up a bit and started it again without any noise. After 5 minutes of idling she's silent. I'm gonna clean the engine bay tomorrow and take her for a spin. I'll post some pictures of new additions shortly.
  18. I picked up 9 shorter tappets based on the measurements I took, and by shuffling around the tappets I already had I was able to get all but two of the valves within spec. I'm about an hour away from startup now. I visually checked all the keepers after install and then used the valve compressor tool to depress each valve. I also hammered on the tip of each valve with a plastic dowel. I have a stethoscope, the problem is that I didn't want to leave the car running for an extended amount of time when it sounded like that, in case there was something rattling around that might cause more damage. Now that I know there is no foreign material, if the noise comes back I'll be able to trace the sound more thoroughly. My first thought when I heard the noise was bottom end. It had the characteritic noise of a spun bearing or some other crank ailment. However, the noise was definitely coming from the top end.
  19. I found using a long magnetized straight pick and a dab of grease on the valve side of the keeper is the best way to do it. Although it took me a few lost keepers to figure that out. I got my hands on the Volvo tool for checking valve clearance and this is what I got: Spec is listed at the bottom, Exhaust - .4 ± .03mm Intake - .2 ± .03mm The 4 digit number on the left hand side is the number written on the bottom of the tappet and is the dimensions in mm. 1608=16.08mm As you can see I'm way too tight on all but 2 of the valves. It looks like I might have swapped tappets between the exhaust and intake on #5, but if I switched back then I'd be really tight on the exhaust side. Volvo makes tappets as short as 15.86mm, so I'll be able to get everything back to spec. However, I don't really think that too small of valve clearance would cause noise.
  20. Solid lifter head, yes. There is a possibility I switched lifters, but not much of one. I made this out of some spare HDPE before starting the job: The noise is there from the start, not heat related. The noise sounds more like a clunking than a clacking. I would expect a higher pitched clacking from a mis-adjusted lifter. I don't have a spare valve cover to cut up, so I can't check clearances. I really don't think that's the problem given the intermittent nature of the sound. I agree with you on the foreign material, but given the noise(s) I heard it seemed probable. I would have expected a keeper in a valve spring to cause some drastic damage.
  21. Just cleaned up the work space, and no sign of the extra keepers, except for 3 I kept separate. So that makes for a total of 5 un-accounted for keepers . Every time I've had the valve cover off I've sprayed air around everywhere, never heard anything metallic rattling around and post air visual investigation didn't uncover anything. I'll take another look at the valve cover. Cams lobes and journals have been inspected and look fine. I'll pop the lifters out again and look at the bores.
  22. I pulled 8 extra keepers from a spare head. I have 3 on hand, and I believe 3 in a bag somewhere (or it could be 4). So I either have 1 or 2 unaccounted for keepers. Or maybe more, I need to find that damn bag of extra keepers. The problem is I did this job late at night and didn't keep track of things when I called it a night at 3am. Its not the sump o-rings since I replace them every time the pan is off. Also it doesn't sound like a typical lack of upper end lubrication problem. Galling of the lifter bore is a possiblity, but I tested each installed lifter/spring/retainer with the valve compressor tool and they all moved with the same amount of resistance. If this was the cause of the problem, wouldn't it be a consistent sound that would progressively decrease in intensity as the gall was sanded down? Not coming from the VVT hubs. I already dropped the pan and replaced it with a new pan and replaced the intake tube, seals and inspected the lower end.
  23. Took all the lifters and retainers back off to look for a rouge keeper. Nothing. All springs, keepers and retainers look fine and were installed properly. The only thing I could think of is a mis-seated lower spring seat, but it doesn't seem like that would cause an intermittent sound. I don't want to put the valve cover back on without changing/finding anything definitive. Anyone have ideas on what else to check?