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Everything posted by Tightmopedman9

  1. Took all the lifters and retainers back off to look for a rouge keeper. Nothing. All springs, keepers and retainers look fine and were installed properly. The only thing I could think of is a mis-seated lower spring seat, but it doesn't seem like that would cause an intermittent sound. I don't want to put the valve cover back on without changing/finding anything definitive. Anyone have ideas on what else to check?
  2. Apparently that wasn't the only one though. Using an inspection camera I looked at every valve spring and in every nook of the head - couldn't find a thing. I started the engine this morning after getting everything back together and still had a very loud top end noise. It went away after 20 seconds of idle, but I could occasionally hear a light tick/clack. First thought was that a keeper got stuck in a valve spring and then worked itself free. I convinced myself that I was just hearing things and then drove the car out of the driveway and down the block, only for the top end noise to come back in full force. I'm going to pull all the spring retainers and inspect every inch of the head, like I should have done the first time. Hopefully this time nothing got bent.
  3. As I was holding a keeper above the retainer, the tool slipped and kicked the tweezers. I assumed it went across the room after I couldn't find it in the head. I pulled the valve cover again and spent a good half hour looking for the little bastard. Couldn't see anything and all the valves looked fine. Compressed air in each cylinder confirms that none of the valves are bent. I'm going to pull the pan and take a look down there, I need to do it anyways due to a package I'll be receiving from Hussein later this evening
  4. Just replaced valve stem seals and re-did the cam cover crankcase baffles. I dropped a keeper that I assumed flew out of the valve cover. I guess it didn't... Motor may need to come out, I'm waiting for the morning for a full diagnosis.
  5. I'm going to say that this conversation needs to happen elsewhere, and not in this thread. I will address your tuning concern though. 80-85% is the MAX duty cycle that you want to run with injectors, not the recommend duty cycle. The only draw back to running too large of an injector is that idle quality suffers if the injector can't supply a small enough amount of fuel at idle. There is no detriment to performance by running too large of an injector. You could theoretically run and infinitely sized injector if was able to inject the proper amount of fuel at idle. The same goes with the MAF, the only thing that will suffer with too large of a MAF housing is idle quality (and this probably won't happen unless you go above 5" ID).
  6. The VAG-COM cable is a USB cable, it's $20, just buy the damn thing.
  7. The VAG-COM cable is a 'dumb' cable. It doesn't have any front end communication/protocol conversion. It is simply a serial interface with logic level shifters. From my quick research the OBDLink is OBD scan tool, it doesn't just pass the information from the vehicle through un-altered.
  8. @Boxman, that OBDLink interface will not work. You need a VAG-COM cable.
  9. I have the code finalized for my dual map routine finished. If you guys want to make a patch for it let me know and I can prodvide the source code. My dual fuel and ignition maps utilizes one map with stock load and rpm axes and another with 2448 and RPM+ axes effectively giving you double the resolution for ignition and fueling maps.
  10. Damn. Like I said earlier you really should be logging KRCOUNT. That will let you know the actual amount of knock events that are occurring.
  11. The dwell problem is because of M4.4. Any modern EMS can charge more than one coil at a time. And for a V8 running COP they would have to do so even at low RPMs and dwell. Besides the RPM at which dwell drops off is well beyond peak VE, so decreased spark power isn't really a problem. The problem with the D585 coils is their method of coil destruction prevention, the auto fire problem.
  12. In retrospect fuck the D585 coils, the only reason I went with them was because I could get them for $31 a piece. If I do it again, for myself or a customer, I would use IGN-1A coils.
  13. I added that wire so he could switch his WMI on using the ECU. It is not hooked up yet.
  14. Yes, fixing the dwell map axis and not over dwelling the crap out of the coils helped a lot. Although, I wish I had just gone with the IGN-1A coils from the beginning. I hate thinking about the thin line between a fully saturated coil and spark scatter. I've been keeping the dwell at 3.7ms @ 13v to stay on the safe side. That's gotten me 23psi at .028" with no blowout. Ill be fabricating a new manifold soon. I just wanted to get a before and after dyno, so I'm waiting until the car is fully tuned on E85.
  15. Finally finished my intake today. The bottom half I did when before I finished the swap and was my first real AL welding experience. No one makes a tight enough mandrel bend in 3.5" to fit, so I had do some more pie cuts. I also added some LS2 coils about a month ago.
  16. The only map to touch is the 'warm-up factor'. It very aggressively enriches fueling at cold start so you can reduce them drastically. On my 1000cc injectors I have the entire map 00'd out. I recommend the same values for all three maps.
  17. I am almost done with an anti-lag routine. It isn't exactly trivial to setup. You need to disable knock detection and fuel trims. Then you need to change the map lookup routine for ignition and fueling to place a definable enriched fuel/retarded ignition in place instead of the normal value. It could be possible to cut x of y ignition events, but maintaining coil to cylinder sync for COP setups would be difficult and the timing routine may be too sensitive to the extra code load to still function properly, I haven't tested that yet. Matt had set up a rudimentary routine which provided anti-lag, but it took up a lot of ROM space and didn't disable knock detection or fuel trims.
  18. There are many ways to find out. Any stock .bin does not have logging, only the .bins put out by Mercuric have logging. If you want a LPT file for flashing, just copy the ignition map from an LPT file.
  19. Changing the axis information doesn't affect how the ECU interprets the code, it is only for viewing the code properly in TunerPro.
  20. Well, I figured out the dwell issues we've been encountering. The axis information for the dwell map was wrong! When the original .xdf was created the voltage axis offset was input incorrectly. Whoever did it forgot to omit the 3 byte preamble to the axis. If you want to confirm for yourself look at 0x33E4 you can see where XRAM FCCC (battery voltage lookup case depth) is populated. To correct the issue change the row axis address from 0xCD05 to 0xCD08. You'd have to convert the frequency signal that those sensors output into a analog 0-5v signal that the ECU could interpret, which is easy enough. The hard part would be the routine that would interpolate between the relevant maps based on the input from the sensor. You can get started at http://8052.com/ Good luck!
  21. No problem getting to the flange bolts, although the DP needs to come off to remove the BG. Doesn't take much time to undo the V-band clamps though. The car has been together for 2 months at this point, and yes the flex coupler is about 4" after the v-band. And before you ask, yes it is has the interlock liner.
  22. Some pictures I've been meaning to post... Since I have a M66 and a single mass flywheel in the car I needed a suitable clutch. Ol' Dirty Noodle posted that a Sachs SD693 clutch has the correct shaft specs, but looking at pictures of this clutch it looked quite wimpy and probably not good for 500WHP. I ended up going with an ACT 3000204. It is a full face organic that looks considerably beefier than an 850R disc. Paired with a Sachs 707 plate I think this should combo should be plenty capable. I redid the entire wiring harness and eliminated a lot of crap I didn't need. I also integrated COP wiring, wideband wiring, oil pressure and oil temperature. I didn't have a spare set of knock sensors, so I used a set from a P2. With the EFR 7064 there wasn't any bolt on options for the turbo drain, so I chopped up a K24 drain and created my own. Sorry for the crap pictures, but the engine was swinging on a hoist when I took these... I found a straight 5' section of stainless 3" pipe at a local scrap yard, so I decided to use it for my DP. I think the filler rod ended up being more expensive than the actual pipe! Welded a 6AN fitting to a spare M4.4 rail... And then she was ready to drop in! I'll get some more pictures up in a few days.
  23. http://freematics.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=53 OBDII emulator.
  24. Can't get to the original thread so here is the cached thread: http://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache:1HAVG2BcvVMJ:volvospeed.com/vs_forum/topic/166751-virtual-dyno-how-much-power-are-you-making/+&cd=1&hl=en&ct=clnk&gl=us