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Posts posted by beadgc23

  1. Drove 600 miles (without AC!), met Tim in Washington who...recharged my AC, checked my brakes, fixed my turn signal, replaced my XC grille, drank the beers, ate the pizza. Hung with Mary & Jess & Tim while amazing new wheels were fitted to Mary's Yellow and the mysterious boost problem was diagnosed in 5 seconds flat. Rediscovered the joys of convoying without sweating like a pig. A Good Day.

  2. So! Last thursday I was cleared to lift more than 10lbs (recent angioplasty) so I had my first car day for a month. Rear brakes (akebono, worth it) front ss brake lines, oil change, vac tree repair, cabin filter and finally installing the iPd HD CBV. Found a split elbow from the fcp pcv kit I installed a month ago, plus one of the fcp ss lines was blocked and had to be tossed. With the vac leak fixed and the cbv I can feel 1-2 lbs of boost for the first time.

  3. Atlantis 18" XC90 rims, Kumho LX Platinum 225/40/18 tires, and a 4 wheel alignment. Rims look excellent, really update the look of the car. However, they also downgrade the speed of the car as the hub centric rings were lost in the post (found out late Friday, of course...) and I can't drive the sod over 60 mph until I get some more. Help!

    Maybe I should have gone for pegs after all....:(

  4. Pop-rivetted PS mudflap on AGAIN, pulled 3 turkey baster-fuls of the Mobil 1 Synth ATF from the PS reservoir & replaced it with Lucas PS conditioner. Steering now feels sane again (previously sloppy across the center 10 degrees of travel) Anyone else have steering as sensitive as this? Ordered Akebono rear pads from FCP as my OEM pads have gone from new to 2mm in 9 months...brake dust begone!

  5. Thanks to unexpected artery (in)activity on Friday and the subsequent hospital stay I'm not allowed to lift anything more than 10lbs for a while, and 90% of car jobs are therefore banned. So I took it to the indy with a clear conscience to find out WTF is going on with the suspension. Turned out to be a dragging front PS brake caliper and slightly dragging rear brake pads too, cost me $50 for the diagnosis & fix. Car now drives like it ought to...

    Also discovered that, post PCV job, ALL of the minor turbo related oil leaks have desisted and the block is clean and dry, even after standing for a week. Deep joy. On the negative side, one of the hydraulic engine mounts I paid to replace 6 months ago is now sloppy as hell.

    90% WIN, 10% Grrr. Not too bad for a Wednesday.

  6. Excellent! How was the other bushing that didn't appear busted?

    Looked fine - no cracks or deterioration, but at $55 bucks for peace of mind, replacement is cheap. The LH bushing is the easy one, if you followed the pinned howto and do it with the delta arms on the car, but the RH...I'll find the photos...

    PS Delta link from above


    As this so clearly shows :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: there's a 12 inch 3/8 extension going through a small gap in the PS delta link to connect to a 3/8 swivel & 18mm socket. I think it's a toss up whether your tools will fit - mine are Craftsman so reasonably common. There's "that" much space to get the swivel & socket in. And yes, the PS bushing has to be inserted into the arm before you can bolt it to the DS arm. Left and right will never be the same again. (Black object is a maglite)

    Delta link from below


    You can see the socket & swivel on the bushing nut. The writeup recommends a 1/2 16 point 18mm socket & cheater bar, and torquing the bolt one "point" at a time. Still can't imagine how this is supposed to work, in any case I couldn't get my bar in there at all. With the extension solution, torquing to the right setting was a walkover. Without this, I was preparing to take the whole arm off :ph34r: .

  7. Nope, that yellow plug I took a pic of was plugged into a dead socket, closer to the hood release. I have the rear fog/dimmer switch out, there's nothing behind/next to them, I also have the light switch out. I followed all the wires from these light switches where the enter the loom about 6 inches back, and I didn't see any extra wires or connectors. So if you can get a picture of the colors of the wires, that would be a great help.

    Could that be the accessory socket? That's yellow and down there somewhere...

  8. Replaced the delta link anchorage bushings, both sides. Indy wanted 2 hours a side, which is about what it took me, but it would have been MUCH easier with a lift. Came up with a method of torquing down the bolt holding the PS bushing that differs from the pinned writeup and doesn't take a week, I'll post. Took the car out for a quick drive - 40 miles later, came back with a big grin. The ride is 120% improved, I should have done this months ago.

    PS - whoever designed the delta link system was on acid, I'll swear. "Left" and "right" take on new meanings previously used only in n-dimensional physics.

  9. ^haha, I like how said in your first post that you're done for the night and you'll finish in the morning, then two hours later you post that it's all done. :lol: Oh well, nothing like self satisfaction of finishing a job.

    Well, you know you'll never sleep easy unless you do...

    Same thing happened to me about 3 weeks ago. PCV jobs are the suck!!! I broke the vac tree and had to replace it with a new one and the o-ring. When I went to replace it the bolt head snapped right off. I tried to drill it out but I failed at that too. I just plopped the new one in there with a fresh o-ring and called it a day. The top hose from the IAC seems to hold it in place ok. I will repair it properly in the spring or when it stops being cold.

    This is another thermostat bolt situation, isn't it? Going to use our metal shop to build a bracket that goes around the vac tree and holds it better than that stupid tab. Mine is currently RTV'd in and clamped with a washer - certainly isn't whistling anymore and my vacuum is improved ! +1 on waiting for warmer weather to sort it out.

    If it were me I'd take care of it all at one shot........first ask yourself how long you're going to keep the car though.

    I plan on keeping mine around for a long long time to come, so when a component goes out on the left and the one on the right's original I plan to replace both.

    Finally found a write up...

    Ordered Volvo delta link bushings (both sides) Stop snowing, damnit!

  10. I'm officially insane - pulled the manifold, flung the clamp god knows where. Lost a manifold bolt in the dark, don't care, will find it tomorrow am. Car purrs like a kitten, vacuum was 19 at cold start 30*, 21 when warm (corrected for my cheapass VDO gauge) so I'm assuming that my impromptu vac tree lashup isn't too shabby. Now I can goto sleep easy. Must see therapist!

  11. Its now 12.06am...and I'm calling it quits. PCV job started at 2.00pm...all went well until I decided to investigate the vac tree which I've sworn I've heard whistling. The top of the bolt spun right off, leaving about 2mm protruding. Cut a slot in it, PB Blasted it, waited, came back, no joy, repeated cycle twice. Plan is to leave it soaking in PB overnight. So I clamped it down with a washer trapped underneath an adjacent bolt and continued putting everything back. 9.00pm, started the car & was greeted by a huge audible vacuum leak and shitty idle. Must be the vac tree, right? Wrong - after 2 hours of fiddling about I discovered that I've joined the ranks of VS members who've trapped the PCV hose clamp between the manifold and the block. :angry: :angry: :angry: Too cold, tired & dark to take the manifold off again, leave it till the morning.

    Bah! Want drink, want food, want to lie on the floor because my back hurts.

  12. Half way through the PCV job (everything removed & cleaned, plus a couple of diversions to clean ground connections, establish that the air pump does have failing mounts and to de-rust an old battery spillage) - really not that painful so far. Without a 12", 3" 3/8 extension and ratchet wrench it would have been impossible however. The PTC nipple on the turbo air hose was not totally blocked, but full of evil jizz and it took a 45 minute soak in brake cleaner to clean it out. All of the hard lines literally shattered in my hands so I imagine that this is the first PCV service the car has seen - long overdue. On the 98 V70 there is a hard fuel line that runs around the fuel rail - fuel rail _has_ to come off to remove the manifold. The two bolts (dipstick support, manifold bracket) under the manifold are totally accessible from above with a ratchet wrench once you know where they are. The only hiccup so far has been the brake booster vac line which had to be cut off & replaced with silicone hose. Is that kosher? ANyone doing this for the first time should order a throttle body gasket too, it's a great opportunity to clean up the manifold. I can see why indy's make good money on this job - it takes time.

    Things found under the battery support - one razor blade, one slutty hoop earring, 2 candy wrappers. ???

    Now having a beer, a smoke and a bathroom break. Great to be working out in the sun today!


    ps - yes, that's a 3990 map holder (light tan), yours for the shipping if you want it...


    The remains of the hard lines...


    :ph34r: :ph34r: :ph34r: me, I am the hard fuel line. Guest appearance by the ancient PCV hose.

  13. If it were me I'd take care of it all at one shot........first ask yourself how long you're going to keep the car though.

    I plan on keeping mine around for a long long time to come, so when a component goes out on the left and the one on the right's original I plan to replace both.

    Same here - but from the condition of it the LH has been replaced by the PO. Certainly looks cleaner than the RH. I plan to keep the car for a while, question is, is it sway bar time?

  14. Finally broke down and go NetFlix for the PS3... so I can stream on my PS3, PC and order Blu-Rays... no bad for $10.99 a month.

    You'll love Netflix on the PS3 - video quality is much better than my Mac Mini/Web browser/Boxee combo even if the interface needs a little tweaking. It should be integrated into the OS this year...sometime... :rolleyes:

    When will netflix get around to 5.1 audio tracks?

    +1 for Boxee (on OSX anyway, they do WinX & Linux too) - download it for free and apply for the beta. The Best streaming/local/network media integrator out there by far. Use your universal remote or iPhone as a controller.

    Cancel your cable ...

  15. rear sway bar and a few bolts and done.

    You mean I need to pull the rear sway bar, or that it's a good time to put a bigger one in?

    Obvious - I understand. The diagrams for the iPd sway install make it very clear. Question is, should I be doing both of the bushings as a precaution. How often do they tend to go? The left & right rubber bushings look fine, it was the collar around the PS bushing that snapped off the mount.

  16. Shoot, sorry, I meant to hit +1. :(

    Anyhow, I was going to say because "it's 5 o'clock somewhereeeee". :lol:

    I deserve it...gross oversight on my part. I only spotted the problem because i put my foot on the trailing arms for leverage - what are the odds? Have you ever swapped these - it looks like a bugger of a job and I cant find much when I search (other than people saying its a bugger of a job...)

  17. Spent the day hanging the GF's new exhibition at a local gallery, decided it was warm enough to get the rear of the car up on stands and search again for the long-term weird rear suspension issue. Shocks off , springs off, found the PS trailing arm bushing was toast - the metal collar around the bushing just fell off as I was poking around with a pry bar, and by the corrosion it had been trashed for a while. Everything else looks firm and tight. Why do I always find this stuff at 4.30pm on a Saturday?

    And...why did the guys who did my "4 wheel alignment" two weeks ago fail to spot this? (and why didn't I?)

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  18. Given that cellphone pix of headlights suck...





    Anyone care to take a guess as to what temps I'm running here? In RL the difference is more pronounced, lows looking bluer and fogs warmer, but the difference in hue is clear. I'm betting Fogs at 4200K, Lows at 5000K.

    These taken while waiting for Broccoli & Garlic Pizza, which was exactly right...

    Background - the lows were a sharphid order, the fogs a recent DDM purchase. Both were supposed to be 5000K. I couldn't find any temp markings on the DDM boxes at all

  19. 5000K to match the lows - this was just a cosmetic whim :D What did you use to connect the HIDS to the stock fog wiring?

    Finally worked out a good way of using the centers of the fog lamp sockets as plugs, with solder, electrical tape & heat shrink. Got everything plugged up and working - bugger! The fogs came from DDM and look warm white, more like 4300K, whereas the lows from SharpHid look relatively blue-white, more like 6000K. I'll take a photo when it gets dark, but one of these companies (or both...) has screwed up. I checked my invoices, both say 5000K. Of course, the fog H1 bulbs are epoxied and siliconed in place so I'm stuck <_< with them.

    Not doing the happy dance...