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NEU last won the day on June 13 2016

NEU had the most liked content!

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About NEU

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    Old Man Crew Photographer
  • Birthday 09/22/1971

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    Formula 1

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    Vienna, VA
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  1. Was wondering if this was coming together before Carlisle.
  2. In for another decade of Carlisle... And Caravan from NoVa... Anyone want to tag along?
  3. No worries Gary, I'll include you on the FB invite...
  4. And apparently intake mods are good too, according to others. I can attest to even my stock p1 tune enjoying better breathing of a K&N drop in and Snabb turbo inlet pipe. I can't see the Polestar tune not enjoying that either...
  5. Yes there is...
  6. I should have clarified that it was the rear o2 the p1 guys put spacers on. And for some of them running the Elevate catted DP they need the spacer cause the CEL, others don't. So don't shoot the messenger, take it up with them on If you are just looking for a stage 1, is the price of the Polestar @$1200 worth it? Especially when you can get the same power out of a Hilton, Rica, MTE, etc. etc. etc. for a 1/2 to a 1/3 the cost. Plus most the stage 2 for the p2 cars aren't just adding a DP, you'll need intake, full exhaust and intercooler mods. Like I said before the biggest advantage for the Polestar is you can just hit your local dealer and keep your warranty if you still have one. The other important thing with the Polestar is the MPG stays the same if you aren't to happy with the loud pedal. But that could be the same with others it's just Polestars big selling point. For myself with a p1 finding a good, hassle free tune is a bit limited than for the p2, that's the main reason I like them. But not at that cost, if they were to come down I'd be on it since I don't want to upgrade my c30 much.
  7. I don't know much about the p2 Polestar tunes but from what I've read about the p1 Polestar tunes they are pretty torquey for a stage 1 and are good if you don't plan on modding it anymore that that. And are good if your car is still under warranty. I'm not 100% sure about adding a DP, most folks just add a cat back. From my understanding the tune won't adapt to the DP so gains will be minimal. But for folks that do run DP they are using 90* o2 spacers to not get CEL. Again this is only for p1 cars... If cost was no issue it would be my preferred method of tuning. Just roll up to the dealer... But I couldn't justify $$ for a tune when I could get one for half of that elsewhere that might not be ask simple or convenient...
  8. I can only recommend something larger than the 300mm as that's what I have and it sucks. Obviously the larger brakes on the RS, followed by the late model ST are best for OEM. The 320mm is better than what we have but I can't say how much as I've not done a before and after comparison. Your tire/wheel combo is something you also have to take into account. It looks like you have a R-design. If you are running 16" you are limited to running the smaller sizes (300 & 320) depending on your wheel spoke back spacing. If you are running 17"+ you can more than like run the 320 safely. 18"+ for the 333 & 350, though not every 18" will work for the 350. There are lists of what wheels will work on what brakes on the ST & RS forums that you can look up aftermarket 5x108 wheels and maybe some Volvo wheels. Unfortunately this is most likely uncharted territory with the 333 & 350. I know of nobody that has added them to a p1, but they have added them to the Focus and you can read about owners upgrading them from the 320 to larger sizes. Again there are aftermarket options to consider if you have the $$, using 320 rotors with Corksport 4pod calipers or similar, if you want to retain the smaller rotor size, which will help with rotation mass. But personally I prefer OEM brakes as you can go to any auto parts store to get pads vs. special ordering them or having to worry about the company going belly up and not being able to get parts, etc... Another thing to know is that if you track your car the 320 is not consider a good track rotor for the Focus as they don't cool well, that was the main reason Ford redesigned the braking and upgraded them to 333 as the 320 were having issues with brake fires. It was something to do with the internal fins and ducting air into them. This can be remedied with brake ducts that attach to the lower A arms. Not necessarily an issue for street driving but it's something to considered it you do track work.
  9. You have warped rotors if you feel a vibration. That's the same thing I have. You overcook the brakes and they warp. You can get them resurface if they are within spec i.e. don't have deep grooves or haven't been worn away too much. To solve you issue till you fix them double pump them and the second time you pump them they should bite a bit better. All p1's (c30/s40/v50) have 300/280mm rotors, only the AWD manual models have 320mm in front. If you want anything larger than your stock 300mm you need the caliper and rotor. If you are going thru the expense of buying new rotors spend a little extra and get the larger rotor/caliper set up. The rotors are the most expensive thing, especially if you are getting Hawk or Stoptech slotted... My calipers 320mm remanufactured calipers were $50 each on Amazon. Or go to a Ford or Mazda dealer for those parts I listed. You can get remanufactured calipers and cheaper rotors to save a little here and there...
  10. Sorry not following what you're stating about your brakes. Soft pedal? Maybe warped or you boiled the fluid? And all I know is Hawk pads will be dusty and aggressive on the rotors. But I will add that the p1 platform with the 300mm rotors are pretty awful. I overcooked mine the first week I owned it and have warped one of my rotors recently. I plan on going with the Volvo OEM 320mm upgrade. Its off the p1 AWD manual cars and also on the Gen1 and 2 Mazdaspeed3 (calipers only because of the bolt pattern) also on the Focus ST, Mk2 and early ('13-'14) Mk3, (rotors and calipers). That's not the only off the shelf big brake that will work for us. The later ('15+) Mk3 Focus ST (333mm) and RS (350mm) that should work too. Best part of this is if you can find any ST guy that upgrade they are usually dirt cheap and the RS Brembo upgrade from Ford Performance is cheap, only $1200. Only issue with the larger rotors are you have to be carefrul about your stock wheels fitting the larger brakes, i.e. RS brakes require 18" rims with a deep offset to clear the caliper. Plus there is a rear off the shelf upgrade, Frankenbrake , for the ST and Mazda guys, it bumps the rears for us from 280mm to 300mm with a Volvo v70 rotor and a Mazda5 caliper bracket. Listed above is only off the self parts, if you to upgrade to aftermarket parts there are several other manufacturer that make BBK for the Focus and Mazda3 that will bolt on to the P1, Brembo, Willwood, Corksport, etc...
  11. Saw this too. But I believe since its a redblock it's more than likely Turbobricks guy... Fill in "crap" Volvo joke with zipties and duct tape here....
  12. I wouldn't avoid Elevate, they are a very reputable company now. They had some teething pains early on when they were known as Evolve... They recently acquired K-pax performance Volvo. So they aren't some fly by night company. They provide good parts and tunes and are a part of the Volvo community... As for the intake pipe, go with Snabb. Kristian's product is better then Elevate... I own the Snabb and preferred it as it doesn't have an indent in the pipe bend closest to the turbo. Plus I got it in the black power coated finish to give it the stock look. Only issue was the power coat was too think one of the vacuum barbs and needed to be sanded. But worked flawless. And along with my drop in K&N on my stock c30R provided a nice performance. I also have Snabbs silicone turbo hoses in black for the stealth look too, again his quality is excellent, plus he offers very good sales every once and a while.
  13. I piggybacked the Kensun HID Canbus/Anti flicker modules to my Innovated slim 55w ballast for the cR. Got them on Amazon for $8. Much cheaper than getting the all in one HID/Canbus/Anti flicker modules for $60+. I had issue with the 2 ballast blowing on the driver side in a month period before I added them (Amazon replaced the ballast under warranty). After adding them hadn't have one blow in 7mths.
  14. I got my original set from DDMtuning several years ago and are still going strong. They were there cheap ($30) 35w all in one ballast (simialer to the ultra). Now they've switched to the 2 piece ballasts. Only issue I've had is with one of the bulbs going bad in the 4 I got for headlights and fogs on my vR. Not sure if the current kits are as reliable as the older kits. I am currently running Innovated slim 55w ballast in my cR headlights, that I got thru Amazon ($25). Been running those for the last 7mths without issue once I added Canbus/anti flicker cancelers. This was because of an issue with the p1 not the kits. I had a set of 35w but those seemed to be a bit underpowered, 4.5K bulbs were blueish and 3K bulbs were a bit greenish and never seemed to get bright enough compared to the DDMtuning 35w.
  15. You hook the gauge up to your wastegate. There is only one connection to it. And the setting depends on your turbo. If you Google there is a chart and a How to video by IPD.