lookforjoe

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lookforjoe last won the day on July 27

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About lookforjoe

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  1. Matt - did you also increase the ID of the rigid & plastic lines inside the senders? I had done that, along with cutting a chunk out of the main sender housing to allow more rapid drawback into the tank. Don't solder any harness connections moving forward - crimp all new terminals. I hope that IC is not as low as it appears! Definitely issues arise when running lowered suspension w/AWD. On my C30, over heavy highway bumps the ear on the CV Oetiker clamp hit the fuel tank filler hose - fortunately didn't cut through the hose in my case. My dampers were also set too soft, and I had to raise the spring seat 1" Good deduction on the boot OD & damper settings. Did you buy the later AWD front subframe tie brackets (the triangular ones)? They are more substantial than other model & earlier AWD version. 9480184 I'd look for a lower profile elbow for the AWD sump - that just looks ripe for snagging & ripping off if you go over any road debris.
  2. Much cleanup work. Nice mileage pic! I also enjoy the Milwaukee M12 equipment - I got one of those stubby impacts a couple years back - really glad I did!
  3. Congrats! Must feel good to have got beyond the first run That coolant sensor (blue tip) is supposed to have a crush washer - did you add one? Also the oil pump & sender looks really close to the PS rack - I would think under hard launch you may get contact from the torque movement. Did you use a rigid mount under the crank? I had to wire my Volvo mount - back with 500AWHP it just ripped them apart otherwise. Make sure you never use that shockproof HD in the transaxle - it will absolutely fuck up your shifts
  4. Got it off the jack stands yesterday, gave it a quick wash - it looks pretty good overall. I want to drive it for a couple weeks before I pull the drivetrain & finish the undercarriage repairs.
  5. My district is doing Hybrid. The rest of the county is remote only. Just faculty through next Friday, Kids come in the following week. 6 cohorts, about 800 per day. We will have around 4200 kids 9-12, - 20% opted for remote only (around 4800 total student pop).
  6. This past week I've spent a few days on the nose again - I finally decided on a path for how to deal with resolving the headlamp opening & the spoiler vertical support Started here some filler work later.. Spoiler then tucks under verticals & over lower lips It was then suggested that I fill in the support to level it with the spoiler / fender skirt, and to resolve the inner fold of the vertical support that I hadn't figured out yet some skim coats of filler later followed by several more rounds of fill, sand, repeat. Some details to finalize, however it's pretty much where it needs to be, finally! lastly, cut up a V70 air guide Also revised the TB setup to resolve the jerky tip-in part throttle drivability issues. Replaced the 80mm TB with a 72mm made a new plenum adaptor to fit it - didn't want to rework the plenum itself, as it barely can be removed in the car as it is - adding to it would make it impossible made a bung for the MAP test fit the TB revised the connection to the air filter - used some of my left over (from the XR) pieces of IC piping & tubing to make the transisiton some issues with the TPS - turned out I didn't have the correct RSX Type S version, which has a reversed offset vs. other models - this is where it needed to be to get 0º throttle opening in the software - not good ordered the K-Tuned one, since it's meant to go with this TB - comes with a fancy billet cover, which I don't need & can't use with my space limitations All done & back together.
  7. Sounds like you have it covered - I do think if you use any sort of mount bracket it need to be on the drivetrain, so it can move with it under load. Putting it off the rack sounds like adding more stress to the lines, unless you make them longer & allow for the drivetrain arc under load.
  8. How are you finalizing the oil feed system? Is the pump going to be suspended off the lines, or are you making a bracket to anchor it to the AG? In all likelihood it's probably OK hanging off the rigid pinion line, however I would worry about vibration affecting it over time. What failsafe will you have to monitor the pump over time, or is it intended for the harsh automotive environment?
  9. Coming along nicely. So much crap to organize w/AWD. To save yourself some grief - DON'T use copper/alloy line for the exhaust back pressure setup - it will fail. Use stainless brake line & stainless fittings Also make sure to add a water trap, or the condensate will kill whatever sensor/gauge you use overtime
  10. Why not just make a short feed line from the surge tank to the line you already made? Then you wouldn't need to run a new line all the way to the FPR/rail....
  11. Nice! I really missed not going to Carlisle this year - Between having to look out for my 80 year-old Mum, and my wife's concerns, I decided it would be better to skip this year. Will you be going to the EUmeet outside Ithaca in Oct? That I will be attending.
  12. I wouldn't use corrugated tube - I did try that for a couple versions - the corrugations are not helpful for oil foam I just found a piece of thin wall aluminum tube that was a snug fit over the inlet - I never made a note of it, sorry Add the safety ground sleeve - and + - are reversed. Cut a small opening in the underside of the case near the bottom (not shown), since the DW has no secondary pickup for fuel residing inside the pump housing
  13. Nice work! I could have told you better to check the freeplay / movement in gears using either the assembled AG, an axle or even an old clutch disc- as you found, hold the input shaft you don't have enough leverage to overcome the gear ratios With the oil drain, better to avoid 90's - if you can keep a slight downhill all the way it's gonna be better - remember that you are dealing with oil foam when running high load/rpm, not just oil flow.
  14. Wrapped up the nose for right now - and moved on to the mechanical work needed to get it running. Dropped the subframe, swapped the oil pan, tack welded the replacemnt subframe section & took the car out for a drive for the first time in 3 monnths! replacement, and new brake line I had to fabricate to replace the one crushed Also painted/dyed the canvas targa panel