lookforjoe

Lifetime Supporter
  • Posts

    13,467
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    89

lookforjoe last won the day on October 4

lookforjoe had the most liked content!

About lookforjoe

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://
  • ICQ
    0
  • Yahoo
    husseinholland@

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Making Stuff

Previous Fields

  • Location
    New York
  • Crew
    NEC

Recent Profile Visitors

67,898 profile views

lookforjoe's Achievements

Explorer

Explorer (4/14)

  • First Post Rare
  • Collaborator Rare
  • Posting Machine Rare
  • Very Popular Rare
  • Reacting Well Rare

Recent Badges

2.8k

Reputation

  1. How far did you get with this? If you swap FD for a different ratio (ring gear) then the mainshaft has to go with it. Never heard of vin cutoffs for M66 (FWD?) - was that searching in the Volvo catalog? Any specifics? You can swap entire gear sets & shafts - ppl have put AWD sets in FWD cases, and vice-versa. I kept the AWD M66 gear set when I did my C30 AWD conversion, 6th becomes a great (higher speed) highway cruising gear. Why do you need the Diesel casing? Because the price is right, or that's all you can locate? Vandsautodismantlers has had the best pricing here in the US. There are no rebuild kits per se - you can get seals & bearings based on the number/markings on the bearings easily enough. There is a site that offers 'kits' for $$$$ (search on Swedespeed, it's linked in the R 2004 Forum - unless you have broken synchos, I'd just do seals & be done.
  2. I think 99 was the same as 98 for cruise control - so this should work (copied from my post in the Manual Swap thread):
  3. Dang forgot to update here - the pickup is mostly done at this point. Just details to cleanup. more X1/9 also got an upgrade
  4. I'm not going to change the registration class - too much hassle The bed posts are just to allow for large irregular loads. The floor will either be the stock panels stripped of carpet & epoxied, or metal versions of them. working on the various filler panels
  5. Thank you. Without the opening hatch, the bed really is too short for 4x8 sheets of plywood, sheetrock. Although, the main reason for doing it is that the Swedes don't - their A-Traktor legal requirements prohibit a real truck bed, so they always chop the door in half. Stiggy Pop on TB has been my main inspiration, he made his (about 4 years ago) with a functional gate - he had to chop off a couple inches to make it clear the wheel arches - but his roof line is longer than mine.
  6. The drivetrain stays redblock - all I did was +T with all the factory add-ons, oil cooler, etc. Maybe DTR it could get a drivetrain swap, we'll see I don't have a 240 - my son has a few.
  7. Thank you! My next project is a 740 wagon, I'm turning it into a pickup The cab will look something like this: some sketches
  8. Drove the car to Colombus, Ohio & back this summer. Fiat gathering out there. Car ran very well, but.... the header I made leaks at the flange, and it is a significant restriction in terms of performance. I found a PLM header for the K24 - so I'm in the process of making that fit bought 2" SS mandrel bends to fix it had to remove the cross support to do this - I'll make a new section when it's all done runners rerouted for the Fiat chassis Slip joint sections cut from original header & reinstalled reworked 2-1 collectors to fit mostly welded Cat is going to go under Muffler on top notched & rewelded the crossmember where I needed clearance for the collector
  9. He had a thread on my X1/9 forum for that build - very nicely done all over. $43K is a nice price for an X1/9 K/swap. They'll have to bury me in mine, I'm never selling it....
  10. Forgot to update on the X1/9: Drive to Carlisle - only me & one Volvo this year - Fiat got moved away from adjacent to the Volvo section this year The other red X1/9 is what mine looked like originally I did get this Did the exhaust note trials - just for fun - noticed I'm getting some oil smoke Finally got the car Dyno-tuned on Thursday. 195WHP, 165WTQ https://youtu.be/YRUDMYGVwCY https://youtu.be/gkhGNtn2R6c
  11. Since my C30 thread is archived..... I installed the rear diff on my C30 that I had added the Quaife 11J to about a year & a half ago... now I have proper AWD with front & rear Quaife LSD's. Not many pics, I already documented the R&R of the rear elsewhere. Basically, remove rear shocks, unbolt brake calipers & suspend from shock mount plate. Disconnect ABS sensors & Haldex harness. Disconnect rear CV at Diff. Remove trailing arm forward bolts (4), remove subframe bolts (6). Slightly lower entire rear, then disconnect EVAP tubes (3) and unbolt leak detection pump from subframe. Drop rear. essential tool for removing rear axles from diff transfer Haldex module (DEM) from old diff to modded diff Fill AOC with .7 liter of Volvo-branded oil. Put diff back into subframe, install left axle into diff, push diff to left side, install right axle into diff. I did NOT want to deal with removing the hubs or separating the control arms to pivot the hub out. Replaced the left axle (used part) while I had it apart - I had repaired the inner boot on the original, and that had started spraying CV grease this past spring. Tipped the entire assembly over to the passenger side & filled the diff, also Volvo fluid, .7L While I had the rear down, I rewired the extra 2 wires (Y, WH) I had added for the VW DEM into the Volvo harness Going back together - had the Mrs push the rear subframe forward under the car whilst I aligned the pinion with the rear CV After that, it was all pretty much cut & dry, just several hours labor to put everything back together Almost forgot - I did install a new version CEIKA rear brake setup, this one has a mechanical parking brake, vs. the old hydraulic version that wouldn't maintain eBrake function over time. This version is MUCH cleaner design & pretty easy to set up - if only they provided proper directions, it wouldn't be so frustrating dealing with them These are the directions given for adjusting the caliper mechanism (step 11): Yeah, NOT HELPFUL I figured out they were referring to this grub screw - you can see an adjuster wheel inside (I had to remove the caliper to do this, as one cannot see inside the hole with the caliper installed) so, knowing now that there is an adjuster wheel, I tried rotating it CW, and then CCW to figure out which direction resulted in proper tensioning of the mechanism. I sent them these pics, hopefully they will include them (or their own) in future directions that make sense.
  12. Dang. Indeed, you were fortunate! The same thing happened to my daughter's 99 V70 AWD about 7-8 years ago - Driver's side balljoint came out of the knuckle - bolt still in place, she took pics of the carnage - and fucked up EVERYTHING. She was also lucky that it happened at low speed. She junked the car though - this was in Orlando & no way I could get there to fix it for her.