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lookforjoe last won the day on December 28 2020

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About lookforjoe

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    Let me show you why you're wrong

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  1. Nice work, Matt! Yeah, I know from personal experience that cam cover vents create a nightmare when it comes to designing a catch can/ external drain back setup You can get the large Oetiker clamps from McMaster, or Amazon. Using standard worm clamps is a bad idea - you can see where it has already dug into your silicone elbow...
  2. Covered the dash top with 1/16" neoprene foam , then adhesive backed vinyl.
  3. Been working on the dash wiring. Put the ductwork back in to check harness routing, had to rewire center console harness (again) to allow it all to be pulled back when servicing the console switch housing. This is where I left off, temps dropped into the teens, too cold to work out there Decided to work on the dash / cluster layout, since that I can do in the house & basement Went through several incremental revisions of the binnacle - which is a typical 80's Bertone layout - really boxy design. When Bertone designed this revision, they moved the entire clust
  4. Looking good so far Matt! Better to go low amp & allow the metal to fuse instead of a large bead w/SS. The V-Bands are the toughest (for me) - getting a good angle & flowing the SS Vband into the pipe. The trick is to always start on the heavier gauge piece - which is sometimes easier said then done... This is one of mine - not a perfect weld by any means, but OK. I keep the clamp on it to reduce warping the flange from the heat. The main thing with SS is to STOP if the metal gets too hot - I'm bad at that as I'm not a patient person by nature Curious why you didn't opt for
  5. Nice work, Anthony! For the transaxle, I just drain the unit, then refill with the 2 quarts via the detent plug on the shift gate. Saves having to remove the side mount - and on the P1's the fill plug really isn't accessible without the special tool anyway... I know we had this conversation - it's always good to salvage the factory heat shields - MUCH cheaper than buying material that has the correct specification !
  6. For me, yes. In addition, I've bought 2 VW DEMs - and CAN Analyzer equipment. When he's done, his controller will work with the stock Volvo P1 Gen2 controller - so no need to get the Gen3 controller many have used with AWD conversions. I've sent him my Haldex DEM to work with. Now he has all the CANbus data, it shouldn't take that long. So, the only outlay will be for his controller.
  7. Hello Tristan I can't answer that yet - I haven't driven it aggressively enough in 50/50 mode. Most of the time I leave it in 70/30, which is max factory torque split. Mainly I've just been enjoying the improved traction off the line and on wet roadways - here the parkways tend to flood on one side of the lane, so the AWD makes all the difference there.
  8. Nice!!! It is so much fun running a T5 motor to 8,5- 9K rpm - nothing beats the sound it makes, and with the AWD it just goes as you have found
  9. Wouldn't hurt to go a tad higher for now. you can always lower it progressively if the hookup issue is resolved. I had dual Magnaflow mufflers and a Magnaflow resonator, it was still very loud and the drone was still bad. Is the Borla a quieter muffler? I used a Stainless Works Turbo muffler on my K24 swap, much quieter than Magnaflow - also added a S40T resonator Exhaust is a good way to practice TIG. Use all SS tubing, is much easier to weld, keep the amps low, & you barely need filler rod
  10. I think you should also raise the rear so you have at least an inch or more before bump stop - it may have some rake when not loaded, but once you launch it won't stay that way for long
  11. Yes, you're correct - the small inner seal in the BG that the axle passes though is only a dust seal - if fluid is coming out, then it's leaking from the trans case & flowing inside the ring gear tube.... Maybe this one got damaged the the axle was reinstalled - not really likely though that's the only way transaxle oil could come along & out the BG inner seal
  12. Dang - they should have replaced the seal when they removed the crown wheel to do the ring - will they stand behind the work?
  13. System now fully functional with CAN inputs for brake, throttle position, steering angle, reverse lock out, rpm, speed. Only missing parking brake signal, haven't found that one yet. This means I can now leave it in any Lock mode setting & not have axle bind when low speed tight cornering or parking - feels really good! Thanks to VanDerVeer Engineering - he is the one who was willing to work with me to get the Volvo CAN data inputs working with his setup
  14. Worked on installing the aftermarket (VW-based) Van Der Veer Haldex Controller over the summer - forgot to bring it here, I can't access my old C30 thread. AWD conversion thread on C30Crew Controller is set using a phone app via BT He makes these plug 'n' play for VW applications. In my case I had him ship with 1 metre pigtails off the controller & I added the Volvo-specific male/female harness connectors. Volvo uses 1.5mm & 2.8mm YESC series (Yazaki) terminals in the Molex 12 pole DEM connector housings Add the factory grommet before the external male e
  15. I have a minty plate from a CA '00 R - I saved it, never got around to installing it on mine - drilling the '98 works just fine though I would expect you'll see higher diff temps once you are loading it in AWD...