lookforjoe

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lookforjoe last won the day on August 24

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    NEC

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  1. He had a thread on my X1/9 forum for that build - very nicely done all over. $43K is a nice price for an X1/9 K/swap. They'll have to bury me in mine, I'm never selling it....
  2. Forgot to update on the X1/9: Drive to Carlisle - only me & one Volvo this year - Fiat got moved away from adjacent to the Volvo section this year The other red X1/9 is what mine looked like originally I did get this Did the exhaust note trials - just for fun - noticed I'm getting some oil smoke Finally got the car Dyno-tuned on Thursday. 195WHP, 165WTQ https://youtu.be/YRUDMYGVwCY https://youtu.be/gkhGNtn2R6c
  3. Since my C30 thread is archived..... I installed the rear diff on my C30 that I had added the Quaife 11J to about a year & a half ago... now I have proper AWD with front & rear Quaife LSD's. Not many pics, I already documented the R&R of the rear elsewhere. Basically, remove rear shocks, unbolt brake calipers & suspend from shock mount plate. Disconnect ABS sensors & Haldex harness. Disconnect rear CV at Diff. Remove trailing arm forward bolts (4), remove subframe bolts (6). Slightly lower entire rear, then disconnect EVAP tubes (3) and unbolt leak detection pump from subframe. Drop rear. essential tool for removing rear axles from diff transfer Haldex module (DEM) from old diff to modded diff Fill AOC with .7 liter of Volvo-branded oil. Put diff back into subframe, install left axle into diff, push diff to left side, install right axle into diff. I did NOT want to deal with removing the hubs or separating the control arms to pivot the hub out. Replaced the left axle (used part) while I had it apart - I had repaired the inner boot on the original, and that had started spraying CV grease this past spring. Tipped the entire assembly over to the passenger side & filled the diff, also Volvo fluid, .7L While I had the rear down, I rewired the extra 2 wires (Y, WH) I had added for the VW DEM into the Volvo harness Going back together - had the Mrs push the rear subframe forward under the car whilst I aligned the pinion with the rear CV After that, it was all pretty much cut & dry, just several hours labor to put everything back together Almost forgot - I did install a new version CEIKA rear brake setup, this one has a mechanical parking brake, vs. the old hydraulic version that wouldn't maintain eBrake function over time. This version is MUCH cleaner design & pretty easy to set up - if only they provided proper directions, it wouldn't be so frustrating dealing with them These are the directions given for adjusting the caliper mechanism (step 11): Yeah, NOT HELPFUL I figured out they were referring to this grub screw - you can see an adjuster wheel inside (I had to remove the caliper to do this, as one cannot see inside the hole with the caliper installed) so, knowing now that there is an adjuster wheel, I tried rotating it CW, and then CCW to figure out which direction resulted in proper tensioning of the mechanism. I sent them these pics, hopefully they will include them (or their own) in future directions that make sense.
  4. Dang. Indeed, you were fortunate! The same thing happened to my daughter's 99 V70 AWD about 7-8 years ago - Driver's side balljoint came out of the knuckle - bolt still in place, she took pics of the carnage - and fucked up EVERYTHING. She was also lucky that it happened at low speed. She junked the car though - this was in Orlando & no way I could get there to fix it for her.
  5. Coming to EuroMeet in Ithaca this Month? Be great to see you & the wagon!
  6. I don't know - he was having trouble with stress cracks even back when he made it. Hopefully he will be @ Carlisle & I can ask him... The cool feature on the one I referenced (StiggyPop on TB) - is that he used the T/gate for the back of the cab, and it's functional. Plan is to do the same, possibly with a slightly shorter cab though. Going to +T it while I'm at at, and looking for C30 or C70 seats... Been racking up the parts to refresh engine, suspension, brakes, etc., in the process. Car sat for at least a couple years & rotors, calipers are fucked. One front strut sticks. One plus, the Koni adjustables from my XC BNE coil-overs are drop ins for the front. Picked up a used set of IPD bars & hardware. On the X1/9, got sidetracked with some additional rust (inner strut tower) repair I wasn't on dealing with this year. Added brake ducts that vent the rad tub while I was in there. added the fuse/relay panel up front - used a XC fuel filter bracket to fit it Used sections of the bumper bar off the S40 parts car to make the rusted strut tower outer reinforcement removed earlier All primed, painted, sealed & undercoated closed cell foam to seal the ducts Repurposed a chime relay to act as a lights-still-on warning - I do that all the time Dash finally going back in, with HVAC box renovated GPS box for Marshal speedo recessed into dash
  7. Bought this To make one of these. Hope to get started late fall/winter
  8. Sounds like you're better off with the locked coupler, based on your setup. Doesn't seem there is any reason to have the VC feature, and sell the good VC on.
  9. With the power you're putting down, the VC will lock very quickly - once I went over 350AWHP the torque split was 50/50
  10. I'll answer this from my perspective - I put 500AWHP through mine - it was the stock '00 coupler. They may hold more, I dunno. The freewheel mechanism is what failed first on the earlier ones I used (late 98-99).
  11. Does it have the same issue - circuit load carried by the switches? The windows are slow to operate without this mod - now they move in a more sprightly fashion. Thank you - it's been tough with the cold - laying on the floor of the garage sucks - even though I'm using several sheets of heavy cardboard, & tarp under that. With the paint, I have to work quick (with respirator) & then get out before the fumes get bad. More paint Removed the Rad/Fans/AC condenser to replace the damaged condenser I'd like to have added a Volvo fan - but just no room to make it work Cut slots to add side vents like a Volvo setup (took the flaps from my old V70 fan shroud) New condenser attached cleaned up the rad well Adding a VW two-temp fan switch Will use the 850/V70 fan relay - wired similar to this, just low speed to one fan & full speed to the other, since I don't have 2-speed fan motors Need to add a another fuse/relay panel up front to run the headlights, fans, etc.,
  12. Moving along with the floor... sanded the epoxy seams, ground back the rivets, primed & ready to caulk caulked - & final primer inside & out Seam is reasonably concealed on this side. I think once the (3M) Rocker Schutz & Undercoat are applied it will be invisible had time to get first layer of top coat on the inside also made a housing for the power window relay mod - I used 900 series relay sockets - based on this type retainer
  13. Nice work, Matt. That fuel rail looks awfully familiar Regarding the JPT terminal housings (4pole for original coil) - since you only need 2 wires, you CAN buy the two pole male # 106462-1. TE Connectivity "Automotive Connectors FASTIN-FASTON 2P HSG" The 2 pole female is 282189-1 I use them often & get them from Mouser. The 'Tabs" (male pins) come in a range of AWG crimp sizes, but you can remove the originals from the 4 pole & reuse the factory tabs - there is an awesome tool that does remove the male & female JPT terminals used all over the engine harness.
  14. It's been bloody cold here in my part of NY, along with some mild health issues, I haven't been doing much on the car - I'm lucky if I get the metal of the body up to 40ºF, so it sucks all the heat out of me leaning on it or under it to work. Anyway, I did have time to get the floor pan fitted. stripped all mating surfaces (about 1" overlap) Rough sanded for adhesion with the Fusor 2 part body epoxy. Cut the drain hole to match the factory drains in the three other areas. This product is very low odor and has about 90min work time - so not difficult to work with for fiddly panels like this put a schmear of epoxy over all the mating surfaces first, as they recommend, then approx 1/4" bead on one of the mating surfaces Installed. Setup times are all rated at ambient temp -around 70ºF - so it will take probably twice as long (at least) in the unheated garage temps of around 20ºF. Once it's cured, I'l grind off all the rivets ends on the inside & caulk the seams with a good paintable body caulk