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lookforjoe last won the day on January 21

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About lookforjoe

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  1. I certainly expect so ! Temps in the high 30's today, so I pushed the car outside to run it. I modded the RSX tune using the TSX VTEC settings & rpm limits & uploaded to the ECU. After that I ran the motor briefly. Sounds good & AFR's are good. Only obvious problem is high idle now. First up I pulled the IACV & found the crappy seal was cracked, and leaking. With the two ports plugged in the TB, the idle was closer to normal. after that, I ran the motor to normal operating temp - 180 something for the K24, fan cycled. then I sprayed around the TB & intake plenum to check for possible air leaks. I did order a smoke machine - been meaning to get one for some time - but it won't be here for close to a week. I got an idle change when spraying the right side edge of the plenum unbolted the compressor, undid the plenum have to remove the support backet also, all easy to get to with the larger opening Just have to ease the gasket out & new one in I don't see any wear/uneven compression on the one I removed though Put it back together, and it sounded worse! So, I took the plenum off entirely, that wasn't to bad either, just have to drop the alternator to allow removal I found that there is a hole in the welds of the crotch between 1 & 2. I have to take the plenum back to the machine shop, that was one of the tricky areas I had him finish for me. I've also ordered one of the thermal intermediate gaskets (3mm), as I'm not confident that the skinny metal gasket is ever going to seal properly.
  2. Yes, thank goodness that was all it was, as far as that goes. Problem is it doesn't run well at all. Idle surges & AFR's sweep wildly, so I haven't even run it to full warm up yet. Have some work to do to figure out what's going on
  3. Took care of several things today. Finished cleaning up the mats Good enough for another year or so Bled the clutch. Haven't done the pedal box, but wanted to check if the pedal return spring faux-pas was the cause of my bleeding woes. Clutch bled in about ten strokes. Bottle with fluid attached to bleeder. Crack open bleeder, stroke until pedal firms. Check reservoir after each 3-4 strokes. Close bleeder. Clutch disengages close to the floor, but no matter it works. With that, I dropped the car & drove it out the garage under it's own steam Several problems. Engine runs wayyy too rich, and won't idle below 1800rpm. Youtube Worse thing - heater core is now leaking after I cleaned out the heater box drain Drip Drip Drip youtube
  4. Used a S40 wheel arch liner to make a cover for the EMS wiring secured with one plastic rivet I'll cover it with carpet made a couple extra heat sheilds from some extra material from the S40 Have to add one more sheild for the rear body panel reworked the heater hose feed elbow, it was sticking out too far & causing the heater hose to hit the shift linkage all good now Got all the drivers properly installed - had to reinstall the app with the ECU connected & powered for it to work changed the injector sizing, but didn't realize the dead times had to be manually set - this is the stock 310cc times After taking care of the cooling system I started & ran the motor for maybe a minute, and saw that the WBO2 was reading 10 (!) so I shut it down. These are the dead times I should have switched to before running it I'll reload the tune tomorrow, hopefully it'll be all good now.
  5. Engine wouldn't start - no ECU activation. Though it might be an immobilizer issue, but it turned out I missed wired the ECU base feed from the main relay instead of the fuel pump relay switched circuit. added the extra wire from the F/Pump relay feed fuse to E9 circuit, and it's all good! Ran it for just long enough to set the fuel pressure to 50psi and that was about it. https://youtu.be/uY6dsARp0lg Only ran it for some seconds - the garage had to be wide open at both ends as the hose would stay on the exhaust. Have two minor cooling leaks (water housng gasket I didn't bother changing, and pin hole in heater hose off T/stat exension housing) to address. No oil or other fluid leaks that I could see :D Tach works, etc. Have to set some parameters in K-Tuner, as the idle surged after start idle mode. I read that the TPS has to be calibrated in the software, so need to look into that. ODBII port is wired
  6. Finished the 8 pole spade bridge connector only the OBDII port left now. ELD circuit wired to this point. Just need to figure out a feed that is not live in crank reconnected the battery - nothing caught fire or turned itself on, so it's looking good - so much wiring I wasn't sure I wouldn't have an issue reverse lights are fed from the ECU, they work Only thing I see is that I have the trigger for the ECU fan connected to (30) feed instead of (15) - it's not supposed to be live with key off. Have to get some gasoline, check the fluids, and then crank it over & see what's what :)
  7. Worked on figuring out exactly what needs to be altered with the BBK. 14mm pushback on the rotor hub, with the bracket moved to the backside of the spindle mount - with that I can get away with 12mm spacer for the wheel, which works for both style wheels. bracket needs caliper mount holes moved 4mm outward, with bracket mounted inboard. I cut 4mm off the inboard side to achieve that with the existing mount rotor still clears the balljoint & steering arms on the spindle Caliper clears the wheels with 10mm spacer, I can live with that. After that I installed the ELD unit and worked on the spare well relay box & wiring added the ground circuit junction
  8. The latex seems to be working for fixing the mat backing. It's holding the frayed edging nicely. Found I hadn't discarded the driver's mat, so I'm going to try the same for that. I'll add reinforcing webbing to the damaged sections of the backing, and laminate that into the backing. Test fitting the CEIKA brakes. problem is the calipers won't clear either wheel style without 24mm spacing. I need them to redo the brackets and the hubrings to push the calipers back 12mm. I can deal with 12mm spacers, that won't mess with the wheel arch /fender clearance. Worked on the EMS wiring after that. Finished the final connections to the harness. The I/O for the reverse lights & brake input were the last putting it all in place bracket & ECU fan secured ECU in Relay box in Much wiring stuffed into this corner Soon I'll get to this mess
  9. P Thank you :) Still plugging away at the electrical wiring - laying out the EMS harness now that I have the various connections figured out. I made an bridge harness (using the pigtail that came with the motor) between the ECU E, C201, relay box and EMS, so that everything can be unplugged if/when the drivetrain requires removal. Now it's mostly just a question of connecting all the dots. AMP JPT connectors for much of this, simply because I have them from old Volvo harnesses & they can carry reasonable load. Using Yazaki 1.5 & 2.8 for sensors, signal wires, etc. that don't have the same load requirements. 15 to relay box, 15 & 31 for ECU fan and Fuel pump here AC compressor clutch feed ECU fan PWM connection HX 040 series Also putting a couple layers latex on the backside of the remaining Bertone floor mat to help hold it together & create a rubberized layer. Adheres nicely into the mesh grid on the back. Now I wish I had kept the DS mat - I might have been able to save it with this method. Just need it to last another year or so until I'm ready to install the new carpeting & mats from Henk. Got some more of the EMS harness connected - these are all the signal/trigger wires that pass from theater-engine EMS harness through to the cabin via two connectors at that end. I bought these crimpers from Cycle Terminal back when I was doing the C30 AWD swap - to take care of the wiring needs for that. There are issues - I found that I had incorrectly connected a wire on the cabin side of this harness - the one I need for the bay fan thermoswitch I mistakenly connected to the wire intended for the ACfan trigger - which runs all the way to the fusebox instead of terminating in the spare well. I'll have to switch some wires around in the cabin-side connector to address that. Thankfully it's just the that pair. This stuff takes me forever. I've been spending days on making the wiring charts listing the different connectors and all the wiring on each side of every connector. I have to do it multiple ways so I can cross-check each wire as I actually connect it to the appropriate housing. Very time consuming for me. I tend to get dyslexic with this stuff & switch pin numbers/locations in my head or look at the housings from the wrong side when counting pin numbers. The convention seems to be pins are numbered starting top row left, viewed from the wire side of the housing. Some of the sketches I made, I had labelled them viewed from the terminal side or from the male housing, which throws everything off. Fortunately I figured most of that out on paper rather than after doing the wiring itself. I've also been mulling over whether or not to include the ELD (Electronic Load Detection) circuit Honda builds into the EMS. The ECU controls Alt output based on a load signal from that. If I didn't include it, I would still have to figure out a way to 'fool' it otherwise. I chopped up the Acura fusebox & removed the section that houses the input battery/starter/alt cable attachment, with the ELD module. I considered mounting it in the spare well, which would have been easier, however the unit needs to monitor load before any consumers, or it won't operate correctly, based on what I've read about it. I bent the left tab flat & cut off some extra material to leave two flats I could drill for studs ELD module I/O to be addressed. For the trigger, I'm going to use the wire I had intended for the acfanrelay, since I've already run that from the trunk through to the Fiat fuse panel, so an easy extension out to the frunk from there. Other two are just switched power & ground. it will go between the battery cable & my inline fuse looks like it will be OK. Will need some sort off insulation/isolation on the underside of the left left for safety. I shoved the duct hose into the inner fender, and found that the most I can get is about 14" forward - there is an reinforcing member below the targa sail that intersects with the inner fender & blocks further passage. Should be OK, still will be drawing air coming from either the gas tank well side opening or from the targa sail vent, I reckon
  10. I got the relays wired, and the two connectors to allow it to be unplugged & removed as a unit 6 pin Sumitomo TS 090 for the signal wires & 6 pin JPT for the power/ground feeds Have to figure out where some of the wires need to go that aren't part of the ECU "E" & EMS C201 connectors. Tomorrow I'll get the other relay box that lives in the spare well that feeds the starter & the Bay fan circuits wired. Need to do the same & have it removable with about 2' of harness coming off it. Much easier to do this part at my dining table than squatting in the freezing garage Worked on the spare well area relay box. Right now, it's for the starter relay & bay fan circuit. I wired 2 of the spare fuses to constant (30) and the other two to switched (15) for future use. Constant (30) feed for the starter relay & two of the spares. 2pole connector is for the starter feed. Took me forever to decide what type of connector to use, kept vacilating between design types. These are Sumitomo 6.3mm series, somewhat beefier construction than standard old school Yakazi terminals. Going to use Yazaki & Sumitomo 060 terminals & housings for the EMS connections to wiring to ECU "E" & C201 connections. left the spare relays switched power & output/ ground lines out, since I don't know just yet what they will be controlling Diodes inside the insulated strips for ground & switched power, to prevent backfeeding in the bay fan / timer circuitry. Use part of a zip tie to keep the diode connections rigid. About 30 wires left to connect to their appropriate circuits. I've done all I can of the wiring out of the car, time to go back out in the cold garage EDIT: forgot to note that in figuring out the relay wiring, Honda uses a later convention for the (mostly) Panasonic(?) style relays they use - terminals are numbered 1-5, instead of the older 30, 87, 87a, 86, 85 that I am more used to with Volvo schematics. I have been using the following conversion: 1= 30 2=87 3=85 4=86 (4=87a 5=85 on their 5pole diagrams, which is annoying) based on my read of the Honda schematics. The relays they depict don't seem to utilize the diode I am used to seeing between 3-4 to prevent backfeeds. Most all the (Volvo supplied) relays I use are the standard cube with the diode in place. As such, it is essential to make sure the ground side of the circuit is always connected to 85, since the diode is set to prevent current passing from 85 through the coil winding to 86. I have noticed some of the Honda-swap schematics wire their relays with 85 as the switched current, and 86 as the ground leg so I have to be careful when following these to switch mine to 85. plastic-welding the duct support - outside - the vapors really smells bad I have about 3" depth at the bottom corner in the well primed and painted the bracket EPDM hose I bought from McMasterCarr years ago Hose will go through the inner fender gap to the gas tank side opening & will attach up top gap (parts car) that the hose has to push through Fan PWM controller finished duct plate - lips on the left & bottom to clip it in place. top of plate tucks under vacuum cannister support bracket
  11. AWD Ring gear is now transferred & welded to the new rear Quaife 11J LSD. $250 later it's done. Now I have to install the new bearings (32008X/Q) and check the backlash. He said it was a royal pita to essentially machine the old diff out of the ring gear, the welds were deep
  12. Platform for........ ? :D Looks pretty clean, so what are your plans?
  13. There is an aluminum slat panel that covers all that, so yes, one cannot see it once it's covered :) Thank you - it is enjoyable, making stuff :D Finally had a breakthough in terms of having a direction for the ECU, bus bars & relay box layout. Slow day at work, so I did some sketching to figure it out. Was thinking along these lines (in the left cavity, vertical strip on the right being the left frame rail): played around with some cardboard, and then made the aluminum version (used the neighborhood watch sign). Recessed to keep the ECU as far in the fender well as possible. Bolted to inner wheel arch and taillamp support. Then I figured out the support for the relay box, and the bus bars template: cut & folded, rivnuts to secure the relay box & bus bar. Pos bar will go to the right anchor at the base - using the bolt that also secures the exhaust hanger plate Now I can get on with the actual wiring, once I get back from visiting my daughter & grandchildren in Orlando.
  14. Made a bracket that mounts underneath on the block - wasn't happy with the idea of a side brace. The factory elbow bolts to that, and then a SS tab will be welded to the header collector had to add a vertical section for the upper securing bolt of the elbow bracket. Bolts are welded on the backside. Honda bracket goes thus, with the header bracket on the other side All bolts are easy enough to access, nothing fiddly here Header has to be installed through the exhaust bay.... I cut up the Acura swaybar end links and used them to make the upper support brackets for the heat shield drilled a new hole at the base, and transferred the isolating collar from the old lower section. Had to drill one side off & then silver solder it back in place Have to make & weld a tab to the collector for that. Lastly, I started laying out the heat shield divider for crossmemember area. Probably going to drill & install a series of SS M4 rivnuts & use SS M4 hardware to secure it. Stainless Works (2.5" 4"x8"x14" body chambered "Turbo") muffler arrived this morning. I had emailed them on Thursday when it didn't show as shipped (they said 2 weeks from time of order to ship), and they said they were a couple weeks behind (!) and that I might see it by New Years. I replied indicating I really wasn't happy with that outcome, and if they had indicated at the time of order that delivery could take around a month I may well have looked elsewhere. To their credit, I got a shipping notice Friday morning. Got it welded to the I/O pipes I had made for the Magnaflow muffler, with a little adaption due to the difference in muffler dimensions. Seem to have good clearances all around. I'll see what happens when it's operating on the road. Have to cut the tailpipe & add the RedTail SS tip. Not going to do that until the car is down & level so I can be sure the extension/offset is right. the fact that it's not level is somewhat of a bother - however, not enough to compel me to rework it. With that out of the way , I started in on all the wiring that needs to happen. Took care of all the rear deck wiring Next I'll do the relay wiring in here for the starter & bay fan, then move to the trunk for the ECU /EMS management wiring. Not really looking forward to that. Problem is I don't have a concrete plan on how best to lay it out.
  15. Worked on the heat shield / trunk floor framing today. Started with this heat shield from the S40 AWD cut & folded to fit the opening, set upside-down here to use the opening to form the edges. Used the mallet to flatten the dimpled flanges, then pressed them bewtween two flats in the vice after this Had to mull over what to do about the raised area - I decided to make a aluminum square tube frame to contain it, upon which the stainless steel floor pan will be attached. air gap between the shield and panel two sections will be cut & welded as one The excess from the shield should be sufficient to make a panel between the exhaust bay & engine bay Whilst I was on a heatshield kick I cut the Honda manifold shield to fit the header cut edge was folded in on itself to keep the two- layer integrity Have to weld tabs back on the manifold flange, and one by the collector to support it