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lookforjoe last won the day on April 2

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About lookforjoe

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    Let me show you why you're wrong

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    Making Stuff

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    New York
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  1. Thank you - I liked it just red, but.... it needs the accents - this completes the body design. redid the nose decal, made it narrower to keep the pin stripe spacing even added xpel film under the rear ducts - those areas are already getting stone chipped
  2. I finally decided to make the Dallara stripe templates. I used a couple old pics for reference, as opposed to some of the other repro Dallara. Tagboard to make the templates. The duct area is going to be a nightmare to fit. Some panels are close enough that reversing the template will work, some not so much. Got all the decals cut from the 3M 1080 film. It's one of the new wrap films that are actually porous, so they claim it doesn't bubble when installed. I don't have a great track record with conventional decal material, so we'll see how this goes. Panels are 5.125" deep. They need to ride just over the door crease, not within it, I've seen ones like that & it just looks wrong. Hard to tell if the line is really right - it's not actually straight from front ot back. The front fender forward section has to drop to the headlamp area, but on the actual Dallara it has a bulge in it that tapers in a way I don't like , so I had to make adjustments to the line. I used painters tape to add a slightly bow to the upper line where it comes forward of the wheel arch, then it drops. Hopefully it will look right in the decal. I can always make new ones if not. Deliberated on whether to try & either get the door sections manufactured with the ICSUNONOVE, or try & do it myself. In the end, I decided to not bother. May change my mind down the road, however I'm not racing this thing. Having the type on the sides is kinda like those "MAZDA" or "FORD" banners that ppl put across the windshield, etc., when it's already obvious what the car is. That may not be so true for X1/9's these days, but I still don't think it needs it. Completed the stripes around the car. Still need to redo the left duct area. Had to jack the car up to get a decent working height. Too hard to see what's what at ground level pass duct done. Turned the car around & did the pass front fender sections. The rear section took two attempts. Every decal has some imperfection. Took it out to photo in the sunlight. Looks fine from several feet, can't see the creases .
  3. Very cool. Definitely ID with all the problem solving required. You have taken it all to an awesome level with the CAD development!
  4. Installed the C30 AWD rear Posi - carrier bearings 32008X/Q x2 about an hour or so to get the mating surfaces free of anaerobic sealant remains preload shim on right side, left side gets the backlash adjuster right side cup & preload shim going in diff in, cover sealed with anaerobic sealant, torqued to 18ft/lb new axle seals 8653928 x2 preload set (5.25 turns), then used old seal to install new seals Had to drill & tap the remains of the rear CV, it was jammed in the pinion flange Next I can remove the flange, and replace the Haldex filter & rebuild the pump.
  5. Dash & switches done for now. Remade the low side(#10) hose. 135º fitting at compressor, #12 MOR, welded to #10 beadlock hose barb. Nice & relaxed fit now. It's clear of the bulkhead - just looks like it's close Made a modified #8 elbow fitting - didn't need to remake the hose with this. Hopefully it holds vacuum now.
  6. Thanks, Guys! Turned out the flex coupler had not broken, not in the sense I was expecting anyway. The end collar separated from the lining. Perhaps my delicate (for once) weld on that seam was the problem - didn't penetrate to the inner material. So, I pressed it back on & welded it on the inner lip seam. While I was on the exhaust I cut back the tailpipe and welded the RedTail exhaust tip on Finished up the remote adjuster for the balance bar. Made a bracket for the adjuster knob, and a reinforcing plate for the backside of the dash. Threaded the knob plate for M4x.75 screws Bracket installed, cable cut and braised to prevent unwinding. Routed the cable over here to keep potential cable kinks to a minimum. I considered putting it under the driver's side, but it would be in the way. On the inboard side of the PS, it would be in the way of removing the fusebox, so it is what it is. Shouldn't need to be adjusting it while driving anyway. Washed the car yesterday for the first time since I started the k24 work Interior mostly back together swapped out the ambient temp gauge for one that is more legible in sunlight switched to ºF
  7. Put the new wheels on, the old ones don't clear the front brakes without more than 1/2" spacer, so I'm not using them at this point Forgot to put the rear ceter caps on... while I had it jacked up to put the rears on, I looked around to check for leaks, and the source of the rattle/clunk I was hearing when cornering. No evidence of anything rubbing, except the corner of the trans case up against the inner frame rail (area Rodger pointed out) - where I obviously didn't push it out far enough. The other thing I found was that the exhaust can rotate too much - the three mounts I made aren't enough - I had to add a fourth to counter the rotation under load allowed by the flex coupler. The problem is that now I've rotated it back to where it should be, the coupler leaks So, I need to get a new one.... After that, I worked a little on my digital clock revision - since I have a old school clock in the cluster now, I'm changing the factory one to a digital ambient/interior temp gauge, in blue to match the voltmeter Drilled a pass-though so the probe sits through the facia, above the display Fitted the ambient temp gauge. May need to figure out how to dim it. Swapped out the AEM WBO2 sensor - it reads 1 pt leaner than the EMS output when hot. Same sensor as Volvo C30, so I had a spare While I was back there, I swapped out the VDO OP sender for the Fiat-appropriate unit from MWB putting back the cover panels
  8. CEIKA parts with the revised offset came a couple days ago, so I put the front brakes on figuring out the remote bias adjuster setup No evidence of any leaks or wiring issues so I put the spare well cover in today, I've been driving around with it open.
  9. This is how I had it mocked up in cardboard - not going to work with my steering wheel holesawed out the gauge holes, with the 52mm gauges reversed Checking the gauge clearance in the aperture. not sure how I'm going to finish the surface, probably just clear coat. Still have to figure out all the idiot light arrangements and so... Wirign goes slow. GPS sender for the speedo in on top of dash, not going to bother me there
  10. done. mod the shifter base to clear the housing, didn't want to engage 5th so well Installed the 50º cam gear. Took hours, as I really, really did not want to risk dropping the chain off the crank gear. TDC Remove tensioner cover, then rotate CCW, lock tensioner, rotate back to TDC marker Removed all the cam caps chain tie-wrapped on either side to prevent it dropping Also secured in the middle as per various videos, however this makes no sense, as with it tensioned from above, you can't get the chain off the gear Ditched the brace & center strap. Very fiddly getting the chain off the gear, then getting the cam and gear out of the head. No pics. Transferred PND gear, torqued to 83ft/lb, reinstalled into head. Made sure dots in gears aligned with marker lines I made on chain. Rotated a couple revolutions and checked all markers again Had to redo the OP sender channel - I had made it for 1/8" NPT port, but the correct sender I have is actually M14x1.5, so I redrilled & tapped it & installed the correct sender All back together Finally got the bushing (turned down to match stock OD, bored to 9/16 (.002" over) and new 9/16" stainless steel shaft from the machine shaft, $180 later.... hopefully get it in the car during the coming week, along with the heater core (maybe, don't really need that yet ) Welded the shaft to the clutch pedal, then put the pedal assembly together, set to center on the bias bar. Figuring out the gauge layout with the Marshall Speedo & Tach. Has to fit 15" x 4.125", difficult to get the 4 52mm in that space. I'll move the speedo / tach closer together to gain a touch of space for the small gauges in the low 20's today, but sunny & dry, so I took it out to make sure the new cam gear is good. Maybe this year I'll get the stripes done Got it on a lift after that, no leaks I can see
  11. GPS for Marshall Speedo will likely go here Worked on a new gauge pod. Not going to put a stereo in the upper dash. M4 rivnuts vinyl cover Oil Temp, WBO2, 5bar Volvo gauge used for fuel pressure
  12. I made the brake lines yesterday, and finshed the layout today. The stock MC had two front outlets, so I needed to split the front output to two lines. I repurposed one of the stock junction boxes. Cross-drilled the channels & tapped with 1/8 NPT to block it off Blocked off one of the outlets Lines done Rear MC goes to the single junction. MC ends are 3/8-24, junction end is M10x1.25 Bracket will retain the two junctions Spent a few hours the past couple days trying to find the cause of the P10009 Cam Angle code. As soon as the code is set, the cam stays in the full retard position. I replaced the Cam angle solenoid, and rechecked the filter screen on the side of the head. After that, I looked further in to the software. The basic setting is this one: I set it to 24º, taking these values from the TSX base code. Today, I found the Cam angle map, and replaced the values in that with those for the TSX: I hoped that would fix it, but it did not. What I found was that the other 25º cam angle setup found in the Accord, only had a 20º Cam Angle Limit. Since the map only goes to 20º, I figured that may be why the code is setting, so I reduced the limit to 20º, and that fixed it! Yay! The car ran better off the line with the RSX map, which has higher values lower in the rpm & load ranges, so I will try adding some degrees back in, without exceeding the limit. I'm going to take it for tuning in a couple weeks, now it OK overall. I've also had issues with the idle. Can't get the IACV to operate properly, so I have disabled it for the time being. The problem there is, if a code sets, the engine won't rev nicely, it stumbles & stutters off idle.
  13. Wrapping up the pedal box welding. Required assembly/diassembly multiple times to check fit, clearances, adjustments, tweaking of clearance areas around the Bias Bar, MC fitment area fettling after welding, etc., bent pedal arm again to get 4" offset back. Can't be wider, just no room under there Brake lines from MC's have to go the this junction. Have to make those next. 3/-24 at MC to M10x1.25 (or is it 1.00 pitch, I forgot) at junction Hose routing or
  14. Welded the bias bar sleeve to the brake pedal cut a slot for the bias bar to recess in to Worked on the MC mount plate mock up Need to add ridge to make plate more rigid 1.25" offset will be good 3.25" height, 4.5" wide Will add webbing to support mount plate clutch pedal needs to sit approx 1/4" out for stop to sit on buffer/adjuster Bushing needs to be 6.375" Have to cut this out more where mrker line is to allow pedal to come forward / up Bought some 1.25" and 3" flat bar stock to work with. Then I remembered I had a spare eBrake pulley cover from the parts car, so I cut that down. Alrady has a nice rolled edge for rigidity Bolts will be welded in place - reverse position of what is shown here - no practical way to access the bolt heads once the webbing is in Welded the brake pivot extension "L" section under the forward edge rear extension With V70 clutch master in place Have to cut back the bracketry directly under the bias bar - it is just touching on the midsection plate at full height
  15. This is where i'm at: Tried the CompBrake mockup box I don't know how much height clearance there is above the pedal box - however this would need a few inches of clearance to work. Decided I'll be much happier with a setup that with less complexity, so I'm going ahead with building the bias bar off the pedal arm pivot. Have to figure out how to box out the mounting plate I need to make to prevent flex under braking this will be welded here, with that offset I only need to widen the entire assembly by an inch