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lookforjoe last won the day on June 7

lookforjoe had the most liked content!

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About lookforjoe

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    Let me show you why you're wrong

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    Making Stuff

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    New York
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  1. Dang Matt - once those height pins started bending, you should have stopped using that press. Very lucky you didn't kill yourself dude. IF you do repair the jack for jobs under 20 tons, I have found that the x70 AWD axle shaft fits in the press frame height holes. I cut a pair of dead axles down to a suitable length & use them with my 20 ton press. Much better steel than the HF-supplied crap. I appreciate that you document mistakes, it is all part of the process & I dislike videos where they zip over the actual steps & hide mistakes. Better to be honest. However you REALLY need to take care of yourself first!
  2. Just get rid of that MSD coil at some point - they really are junk & no advantage output wise over stock Bosch coil. 20g is underwhelming - the hotsides are all too small, so lots of nice initial pull, then choky-choky since the backpressure gets way too high for the compressor side output - not a good match on a 5cyl, that was my experience anyway.
  3. It's like a go cart - it basically goes where you point it. It's really fun to drive. I don't know about the upper cornering limits - I didn't get to drive it that hard yet. The problem with stock X1/9's is that they stick like glue .... until they don't, at which point the the rear will spin out on you. With front & rear sway bars added, the wider track & sticky tires I have found it easy to go through winding roads/exit entrance ramps at much higher speeds with very neutral handling. Even in the accident, I was able to steer it off the road to avoid the guardrail - just unfortunate what was in my path as I did so.
  4. Thank you. I'll be happier with the revised nose once it's done - simpler form, closer to orginal. The undercarriage damage, not really looking forward to that
  5. Car took a beating just over a month ago. First, I drove it to work that morning, so I could log the part throttle & warm up issues. Poured with rain, so I was able to confirm no water ingress. Finally resolved the drivability issues earlier that afternoon after reviewing the logs. Had to go buy a new battery also - my MT-24F was about 7 years old & no longer likes to hold a good cranking charge. Coming home from the drive to confirm throttle tip in & part throttle issues were gone, I rode over some debris in the bend of the exit ramp for the NYS Thruway , and went sideways enough that I had to quickly decide whether to cut it hard & go right off the roadway onto the grass divide, or hit the guardrail. Unfortunately there was the remnants of a post base where I left the roadway and it tore off the front sway bar and ripped out the oil pan (I found out after I stopped). The car dipped into the gully & slammed the nose hard. I steered it down the divide & back into the shoulder & turned it off. I looked under & saw all the oil gushing out. I don't know if I shut it down in time, probably 15-30sec from time of impact to shutdown. No injuries, just a little beat up from the nose dive Center section took a hit Water pipes pushed in, but not ruptured, cover peeled back, floor pans pushed in holes where the swaybar was ripped out rad support pushed back - rad seems fine - AC condenser, not so much. I think all the spoiler bracing I added helped mitigate the damage, as that must have absorbed some of the initial impact - after all, the entire nose didn't explode on me. forward k20 subframe bent - pan ruptured, but not pushed in. so oil pump & baffle kit should be OK Mount ears 'look' OK - I'll find out when I take it all apart. I'll be welding the cover panels instead of bonding next time crack in fiberglass, popped the rivet plug, stress fractures in the glass above the strip Door shunted the post Further damage from the drop off the tow truck Cleaned the car & undercarriage to remove all the mud. At least it looks good from the 3/4 views Started on the nose. Chopped off a couple inches to get beyond the worst cracks Took an S40 rear bumper cover chopped off the top sectioned the cover, and angled it to match nose, about 12º Cut the grille surround off what was left of the fiberglass spoiler. All that will be bonded together & merged into the fenders. Along with fibreglass panels around the headlamps back into the fenders The underside will have some reinforcement, just to keep the contour from dropping Plugging away at the nose repair. Got the sheet metal HL cover panels welded & filled. Worked on the nose / fender / grille transitins to get it all to flow nicely with the chopped version. S40 bumper section is going to work just fine for the spoiler. The spoiler/grille surround will be removable, so I need to figure out the mounting for the inner verticals, and make separate headlamp framing that is attached to the frame instead of to the grille surround as it was previously. Subframe section has been completed More back & forth (add material/remove material) on the nose & headlamp 'bucket' areas. Ideally, the surrounds should look similar to this: The difficulty is in getting the interpretation of the inner vertical 'scallop' - my center panel is not the same as the original - I don't have the setback & taper that matches - mine is vertical drop, then chamfer - so my version is to be an interpretation of the original. I adjusted my headlamp housing support system to offset the entire assembly about an inch rearward, so that it will sit with a slight recess at the outer lower corner, the shallowest point. There will be filler panels on all four sides to create the 'bucket' Lower ones have been added here, along with tie plates to merge the fender skirt wrap below the marker lamp aperture in the the vertical grille surround. I also need to reshape the headlamp cover areas, hence the additional bondo on top Overall, I think the simplified form will look good. Original modified fibreglass panel work back in 2016. Plan is eliminating all those hard corners around the headlamps & markers Working on getting that inner radius - hopefully without cutting further inboard - that will make attaching the (removable) spoiler & grille surround more difficult. I think I will be able to create enough of a visual taper & contour to the 'bucket' with some addtional fibreglass & bondo work. Just time consuming getting L & R evenly shaped, since this is all eyeballed. I did make small contour guide plates to test general conformity, but it still comes down to does it look 'right'.
  6. That is truly a thing of beauty!!!! .... is the breather port designed to take the factory press-in brass tube & filter?
  7. Nice work! Looking really good so far. I had many issues with turbo drainage/back flow with the larger frame turbo - the proximity to the AG really screws with drain flow - largely because it is typically aerated if you are running over stock RPM limits & the standard drain ID is way to small when you have to make a hard angle right at the flange. I made several with AN fittings, and they are just too bulky, in the end I made copper line, that worked great but only lasted a year or so. I also used an RNC-prepped block, so at some point I switched to the later drain port, and used the stock port as another vent. A large bore (over 5/8) , rigid pipe drain design would be ideal. Having the 'reservoir' helped allow for the aeration, vs. straight bore. with the DP, you definitely want the prop shaft & flange in place before you fabricate, since the DP has to tuck around it - this is the basic shape that worked for me through several iterations. I should strongle recommend adding a flex coupler up there, given the amount of torque you are placing on the drivetrain. With PB account gone, I lost most of my pics. Don't have any that show the flow around the prop shaft. The front CV will cook if you don't have a good air gap. I tried heat wrap on one version -didn't work out for me becuase I had the hood vent, so water was always soaking the header/DP & compromising the setup I also had to add a heat shield for the surge tank on mine, with the dual muffler setup the right muffler was too close to the tank
  8. Sorry - I wasn't implying it was in any way a better or stronger setup compared to your needs. Just a cool mod. Personally, I don't like the Haldex given the shitty power distribution Volvo/VW etc., set it up for, with no provision for close to 50/50 spilt. With my old wagon & VC I got 50/50 as soon as I got around 350AWHP. I think the weak link of the VC is the freewheel mechanism, at least in my experience, that was always the failure point. I guess if the VC leaks, then the loss of the silicone-based fluid would kill it. Perhaps it will overheat & cook when put through your power levels though. Time will tell on that one. Back in the 80's I did snap a ring gear (w/Volvo LSD) in two in my old 245TI w/a 50 shot - so it is possible that will fail for you before the housing ever would - I guess that depends on how you can preload the rear to prevent that slack on launch that also exploded my angle drive years ago... I am going to be using the VnDeVeer Haldex Controller with VW Haldex on my C30. With his controller, I can tailor the torque split anyway I want. We'll see how it goes, all I know is the setup with the Gen3 controller is still less than stellar, too much front spin. With my wagon, there was no drama, just go - I want that in the C30
  9. Unfortunately that's all I have. Those pics came from Van Der Veer Haldex Controller. One of his customers did that & uses his controller to govern it's operation. I'll message him & see if I can get more background. I have no idea what the diff is from, could be VW for all I know, the Haldex has to be to work with VanDerVeer Controller.
  10. 3M vinyl lettering finally came in yesterday , and it was a sunny warm day (for a change), so I got the lettering installed. Went easier than I was expecting - has a nice firm transfer sheet that keeps the lettering positioned 3M 'Dark Red' scotchcal film. Matches the Volvo red reasonably well I'm happy
  11. I'll just leave these here - modified Gen5 Haldex dropped into P80 in Europe - using VW Haldex controller
  12. LOL - when I first went through the vid I had the sound off - and I was wondering what the heck the fake bearing were for, since obviously end float on the pumpkin is way off that way
  13. Waiting for color samples for the "icsunonove" lettering. Ordered another sticker I feel is appropriate now:
  14. The wing is nuts! Looks awesome, but just to OTT for me. I wasn't planning on doing the "iCSONONOVE" or the "b", but I'm going to do the door lettering if I can get it produced for a resonable cost in a matching red. did a paper mock up of the lettering also made lexan headlamp covers - I hadn't noticed it at first, but the original version had them Cut from the basic template, then heated and creased the panels (clamped in a vice) for each side. some trimming required after the fact of course four little "L" brackets will retain each panel. Took some small conduit brackets I had laying around & bent them into the required "L", added a M4 rivnut, and primed/painted. ...and chopped an inch of so off the 960 spoiler chin I had melded into the fibreglass version
  15. Thank you - I liked it just red, but.... it needs the accents - this completes the body design. redid the nose decal, made it narrower to keep the pin stripe spacing even added xpel film under the rear ducts - those areas are already getting stone chipped