lookforjoe

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Everything posted by lookforjoe

  1. Dang Matt - once those height pins started bending, you should have stopped using that press. Very lucky you didn't kill yourself dude. IF you do repair the jack for jobs under 20 tons, I have found that the x70 AWD axle shaft fits in the press frame height holes. I cut a pair of dead axles down to a suitable length & use them with my 20 ton press. Much better steel than the HF-supplied crap. I appreciate that you document mistakes, it is all part of the process & I dislike videos where they zip over the actual steps & hide mistakes. Better to be honest. However you REALLY need to take care of yourself first!
  2. Just get rid of that MSD coil at some point - they really are junk & no advantage output wise over stock Bosch coil. 20g is underwhelming - the hotsides are all too small, so lots of nice initial pull, then choky-choky since the backpressure gets way too high for the compressor side output - not a good match on a 5cyl, that was my experience anyway.
  3. It's like a go cart - it basically goes where you point it. It's really fun to drive. I don't know about the upper cornering limits - I didn't get to drive it that hard yet. The problem with stock X1/9's is that they stick like glue .... until they don't, at which point the the rear will spin out on you. With front & rear sway bars added, the wider track & sticky tires I have found it easy to go through winding roads/exit entrance ramps at much higher speeds with very neutral handling. Even in the accident, I was able to steer it off the road to avoid the guardrail - just unfortunate what was in my path as I did so.
  4. Thank you. I'll be happier with the revised nose once it's done - simpler form, closer to orginal. The undercarriage damage, not really looking forward to that
  5. Car took a beating just over a month ago. First, I drove it to work that morning, so I could log the part throttle & warm up issues. Poured with rain, so I was able to confirm no water ingress. Finally resolved the drivability issues earlier that afternoon after reviewing the logs. Had to go buy a new battery also - my MT-24F was about 7 years old & no longer likes to hold a good cranking charge. Coming home from the drive to confirm throttle tip in & part throttle issues were gone, I rode over some debris in the bend of the exit ramp for the NYS Thruway , and went sideways enough that I had to quickly decide whether to cut it hard & go right off the roadway onto the grass divide, or hit the guardrail. Unfortunately there was the remnants of a post base where I left the roadway and it tore off the front sway bar and ripped out the oil pan (I found out after I stopped). The car dipped into the gully & slammed the nose hard. I steered it down the divide & back into the shoulder & turned it off. I looked under & saw all the oil gushing out. I don't know if I shut it down in time, probably 15-30sec from time of impact to shutdown. No injuries, just a little beat up from the nose dive Center section took a hit Water pipes pushed in, but not ruptured, cover peeled back, floor pans pushed in holes where the swaybar was ripped out rad support pushed back - rad seems fine - AC condenser, not so much. I think all the spoiler bracing I added helped mitigate the damage, as that must have absorbed some of the initial impact - after all, the entire nose didn't explode on me. forward k20 subframe bent - pan ruptured, but not pushed in. so oil pump & baffle kit should be OK Mount ears 'look' OK - I'll find out when I take it all apart. I'll be welding the cover panels instead of bonding next time crack in fiberglass, popped the rivet plug, stress fractures in the glass above the strip Door shunted the post Further damage from the drop off the tow truck Cleaned the car & undercarriage to remove all the mud. At least it looks good from the 3/4 views Started on the nose. Chopped off a couple inches to get beyond the worst cracks Took an S40 rear bumper cover chopped off the top sectioned the cover, and angled it to match nose, about 12º Cut the grille surround off what was left of the fiberglass spoiler. All that will be bonded together & merged into the fenders. Along with fibreglass panels around the headlamps back into the fenders The underside will have some reinforcement, just to keep the contour from dropping Plugging away at the nose repair. Got the sheet metal HL cover panels welded & filled. Worked on the nose / fender / grille transitins to get it all to flow nicely with the chopped version. S40 bumper section is going to work just fine for the spoiler. The spoiler/grille surround will be removable, so I need to figure out the mounting for the inner verticals, and make separate headlamp framing that is attached to the frame instead of to the grille surround as it was previously. Subframe section has been completed More back & forth (add material/remove material) on the nose & headlamp 'bucket' areas. Ideally, the surrounds should look similar to this: The difficulty is in getting the interpretation of the inner vertical 'scallop' - my center panel is not the same as the original - I don't have the setback & taper that matches - mine is vertical drop, then chamfer - so my version is to be an interpretation of the original. I adjusted my headlamp housing support system to offset the entire assembly about an inch rearward, so that it will sit with a slight recess at the outer lower corner, the shallowest point. There will be filler panels on all four sides to create the 'bucket' Lower ones have been added here, along with tie plates to merge the fender skirt wrap below the marker lamp aperture in the the vertical grille surround. I also need to reshape the headlamp cover areas, hence the additional bondo on top Overall, I think the simplified form will look good. Original modified fibreglass panel work back in 2016. Plan is eliminating all those hard corners around the headlamps & markers Working on getting that inner radius - hopefully without cutting further inboard - that will make attaching the (removable) spoiler & grille surround more difficult. I think I will be able to create enough of a visual taper & contour to the 'bucket' with some addtional fibreglass & bondo work. Just time consuming getting L & R evenly shaped, since this is all eyeballed. I did make small contour guide plates to test general conformity, but it still comes down to does it look 'right'.
  6. That is truly a thing of beauty!!!! .... is the breather port designed to take the factory press-in brass tube & filter?
  7. Nice work! Looking really good so far. I had many issues with turbo drainage/back flow with the larger frame turbo - the proximity to the AG really screws with drain flow - largely because it is typically aerated if you are running over stock RPM limits & the standard drain ID is way to small when you have to make a hard angle right at the flange. I made several with AN fittings, and they are just too bulky, in the end I made copper line, that worked great but only lasted a year or so. I also used an RNC-prepped block, so at some point I switched to the later drain port, and used the stock port as another vent. A large bore (over 5/8) , rigid pipe drain design would be ideal. Having the 'reservoir' helped allow for the aeration, vs. straight bore. with the DP, you definitely want the prop shaft & flange in place before you fabricate, since the DP has to tuck around it - this is the basic shape that worked for me through several iterations. I should strongle recommend adding a flex coupler up there, given the amount of torque you are placing on the drivetrain. With PB account gone, I lost most of my pics. Don't have any that show the flow around the prop shaft. The front CV will cook if you don't have a good air gap. I tried heat wrap on one version -didn't work out for me becuase I had the hood vent, so water was always soaking the header/DP & compromising the setup I also had to add a heat shield for the surge tank on mine, with the dual muffler setup the right muffler was too close to the tank
  8. Sorry - I wasn't implying it was in any way a better or stronger setup compared to your needs. Just a cool mod. Personally, I don't like the Haldex given the shitty power distribution Volvo/VW etc., set it up for, with no provision for close to 50/50 spilt. With my old wagon & VC I got 50/50 as soon as I got around 350AWHP. I think the weak link of the VC is the freewheel mechanism, at least in my experience, that was always the failure point. I guess if the VC leaks, then the loss of the silicone-based fluid would kill it. Perhaps it will overheat & cook when put through your power levels though. Time will tell on that one. Back in the 80's I did snap a ring gear (w/Volvo LSD) in two in my old 245TI w/a 50 shot - so it is possible that will fail for you before the housing ever would - I guess that depends on how you can preload the rear to prevent that slack on launch that also exploded my angle drive years ago... I am going to be using the VnDeVeer Haldex Controller with VW Haldex on my C30. With his controller, I can tailor the torque split anyway I want. We'll see how it goes, all I know is the setup with the Gen3 controller is still less than stellar, too much front spin. With my wagon, there was no drama, just go - I want that in the C30
  9. Unfortunately that's all I have. Those pics came from Van Der Veer Haldex Controller. One of his customers did that & uses his controller to govern it's operation. I'll message him & see if I can get more background. I have no idea what the diff is from, could be VW for all I know, the Haldex has to be to work with VanDerVeer Controller.
  10. 3M vinyl lettering finally came in yesterday , and it was a sunny warm day (for a change), so I got the lettering installed. Went easier than I was expecting - has a nice firm transfer sheet that keeps the lettering positioned 3M 'Dark Red' scotchcal film. Matches the Volvo red reasonably well I'm happy
  11. I'll just leave these here - modified Gen5 Haldex dropped into P80 in Europe - using VW Haldex controller
  12. LOL - when I first went through the vid I had the sound off - and I was wondering what the heck the fake bearing were for, since obviously end float on the pumpkin is way off that way
  13. Waiting for color samples for the "icsunonove" lettering. Ordered another sticker I feel is appropriate now:
  14. The wing is nuts! Looks awesome, but just to OTT for me. I wasn't planning on doing the "iCSONONOVE" or the "b", but I'm going to do the door lettering if I can get it produced for a resonable cost in a matching red. did a paper mock up of the lettering also made lexan headlamp covers - I hadn't noticed it at first, but the original version had them Cut from the basic template, then heated and creased the panels (clamped in a vice) for each side. some trimming required after the fact of course four little "L" brackets will retain each panel. Took some small conduit brackets I had laying around & bent them into the required "L", added a M4 rivnut, and primed/painted. ...and chopped an inch of so off the 960 spoiler chin I had melded into the fibreglass version
  15. Thank you - I liked it just red, but.... it needs the accents - this completes the body design. redid the nose decal, made it narrower to keep the pin stripe spacing even added xpel film under the rear ducts - those areas are already getting stone chipped
  16. I finally decided to make the Dallara stripe templates. I used a couple old pics for reference, as opposed to some of the other repro Dallara. Tagboard to make the templates. The duct area is going to be a nightmare to fit. Some panels are close enough that reversing the template will work, some not so much. Got all the decals cut from the 3M 1080 film. It's one of the new wrap films that are actually porous, so they claim it doesn't bubble when installed. I don't have a great track record with conventional decal material, so we'll see how this goes. Panels are 5.125" deep. They need to ride just over the door crease, not within it, I've seen ones like that & it just looks wrong. Hard to tell if the line is really right - it's not actually straight from front ot back. The front fender forward section has to drop to the headlamp area, but on the actual Dallara it has a bulge in it that tapers in a way I don't like , so I had to make adjustments to the line. I used painters tape to add a slightly bow to the upper line where it comes forward of the wheel arch, then it drops. Hopefully it will look right in the decal. I can always make new ones if not. Deliberated on whether to try & either get the door sections manufactured with the ICSUNONOVE, or try & do it myself. In the end, I decided to not bother. May change my mind down the road, however I'm not racing this thing. Having the type on the sides is kinda like those "MAZDA" or "FORD" banners that ppl put across the windshield, etc., when it's already obvious what the car is. That may not be so true for X1/9's these days, but I still don't think it needs it. Completed the stripes around the car. Still need to redo the left duct area. Had to jack the car up to get a decent working height. Too hard to see what's what at ground level pass duct done. Turned the car around & did the pass front fender sections. The rear section took two attempts. Every decal has some imperfection. Took it out to photo in the sunlight. Looks fine from several feet, can't see the creases .
  17. Very cool. Definitely ID with all the problem solving required. You have taken it all to an awesome level with the CAD development!
  18. Installed the C30 AWD rear Posi - carrier bearings 32008X/Q x2 about an hour or so to get the mating surfaces free of anaerobic sealant remains preload shim on right side, left side gets the backlash adjuster right side cup & preload shim going in diff in, cover sealed with anaerobic sealant, torqued to 18ft/lb new axle seals 8653928 x2 preload set (5.25 turns), then used old seal to install new seals Had to drill & tap the remains of the rear CV, it was jammed in the pinion flange Next I can remove the flange, and replace the Haldex filter & rebuild the pump.
  19. Dash & switches done for now. Remade the low side(#10) hose. 135º fitting at compressor, #12 MOR, welded to #10 beadlock hose barb. Nice & relaxed fit now. It's clear of the bulkhead - just looks like it's close Made a modified #8 elbow fitting - didn't need to remake the hose with this. Hopefully it holds vacuum now.
  20. Thanks, Guys! Turned out the flex coupler had not broken, not in the sense I was expecting anyway. The end collar separated from the lining. Perhaps my delicate (for once) weld on that seam was the problem - didn't penetrate to the inner material. So, I pressed it back on & welded it on the inner lip seam. While I was on the exhaust I cut back the tailpipe and welded the RedTail exhaust tip on Finished up the remote adjuster for the balance bar. Made a bracket for the adjuster knob, and a reinforcing plate for the backside of the dash. Threaded the knob plate for M4x.75 screws Bracket installed, cable cut and braised to prevent unwinding. Routed the cable over here to keep potential cable kinks to a minimum. I considered putting it under the driver's side, but it would be in the way. On the inboard side of the PS, it would be in the way of removing the fusebox, so it is what it is. Shouldn't need to be adjusting it while driving anyway. Washed the car yesterday for the first time since I started the k24 work Interior mostly back together swapped out the ambient temp gauge for one that is more legible in sunlight switched to ºF
  21. Put the new wheels on, the old ones don't clear the front brakes without more than 1/2" spacer, so I'm not using them at this point Forgot to put the rear ceter caps on... while I had it jacked up to put the rears on, I looked around to check for leaks, and the source of the rattle/clunk I was hearing when cornering. No evidence of anything rubbing, except the corner of the trans case up against the inner frame rail (area Rodger pointed out) - where I obviously didn't push it out far enough. The other thing I found was that the exhaust can rotate too much - the three mounts I made aren't enough - I had to add a fourth to counter the rotation under load allowed by the flex coupler. The problem is that now I've rotated it back to where it should be, the coupler leaks So, I need to get a new one.... After that, I worked a little on my digital clock revision - since I have a old school clock in the cluster now, I'm changing the factory one to a digital ambient/interior temp gauge, in blue to match the voltmeter Drilled a pass-though so the probe sits through the facia, above the display Fitted the ambient temp gauge. May need to figure out how to dim it. Swapped out the AEM WBO2 sensor - it reads 1 pt leaner than the EMS output when hot. Same sensor as Volvo C30, so I had a spare While I was back there, I swapped out the VDO OP sender for the Fiat-appropriate unit from MWB putting back the cover panels
  22. CEIKA parts with the revised offset came a couple days ago, so I put the front brakes on figuring out the remote bias adjuster setup No evidence of any leaks or wiring issues so I put the spare well cover in today, I've been driving around with it open.
  23. This is how I had it mocked up in cardboard - not going to work with my steering wheel holesawed out the gauge holes, with the 52mm gauges reversed Checking the gauge clearance in the aperture. not sure how I'm going to finish the surface, probably just clear coat. Still have to figure out all the idiot light arrangements and so... Wirign goes slow. GPS sender for the speedo in on top of dash, not going to bother me there
  24. done. mod the shifter base to clear the housing, didn't want to engage 5th so well Installed the 50º cam gear. Took hours, as I really, really did not want to risk dropping the chain off the crank gear. TDC Remove tensioner cover, then rotate CCW, lock tensioner, rotate back to TDC marker Removed all the cam caps chain tie-wrapped on either side to prevent it dropping Also secured in the middle as per various videos, however this makes no sense, as with it tensioned from above, you can't get the chain off the gear Ditched the brace & center strap. Very fiddly getting the chain off the gear, then getting the cam and gear out of the head. No pics. Transferred PND gear, torqued to 83ft/lb, reinstalled into head. Made sure dots in gears aligned with marker lines I made on chain. Rotated a couple revolutions and checked all markers again Had to redo the OP sender channel - I had made it for 1/8" NPT port, but the correct sender I have is actually M14x1.5, so I redrilled & tapped it & installed the correct sender All back together Finally got the bushing (turned down to match stock OD, bored to 9/16 (.002" over) and new 9/16" stainless steel shaft from the machine shaft, $180 later.... hopefully get it in the car during the coming week, along with the heater core (maybe, don't really need that yet ) Welded the shaft to the clutch pedal, then put the pedal assembly together, set to center on the bias bar. Figuring out the gauge layout with the Marshall Speedo & Tach. Has to fit 15" x 4.125", difficult to get the 4 52mm in that space. I'll move the speedo / tach closer together to gain a touch of space for the small gauges in the low 20's today, but sunny & dry, so I took it out to make sure the new cam gear is good. Maybe this year I'll get the stripes done Got it on a lift after that, no leaks I can see
  25. GPS for Marshall Speedo will likely go here Worked on a new gauge pod. Not going to put a stereo in the upper dash. M4 rivnuts vinyl cover Oil Temp, WBO2, 5bar Volvo gauge used for fuel pressure