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Everything posted by lookforjoe

  1. Drove the car to Colombus, Ohio & back this summer. Fiat gathering out there. Car ran very well, but.... the header I made leaks at the flange, and it is a significant restriction in terms of performance. I found a PLM header for the K24 - so I'm in the process of making that fit bought 2" SS mandrel bends to fix it had to remove the cross support to do this - I'll make a new section when it's all done runners rerouted for the Fiat chassis Slip joint sections cut from original header & reinstalled reworked 2-1 collectors to fit mostly welded Cat is going to go under Muffler on top notched & rewelded the crossmember where I needed clearance for the collector
  2. You could reach out to Simply Volvo - he may know, having completely refurbished his AWD suspension http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/profile/44472-simply-volvo/
  3. He had a thread on my X1/9 forum for that build - very nicely done all over. $43K is a nice price for an X1/9 K/swap. They'll have to bury me in mine, I'm never selling it....
  4. Forgot to update on the X1/9: Drive to Carlisle - only me & one Volvo this year - Fiat got moved away from adjacent to the Volvo section this year The other red X1/9 is what mine looked like originally I did get this Did the exhaust note trials - just for fun - noticed I'm getting some oil smoke Finally got the car Dyno-tuned on Thursday. 195WHP, 165WTQ https://youtu.be/YRUDMYGVwCY https://youtu.be/gkhGNtn2R6c
  5. Since my C30 thread is archived..... I installed the rear diff on my C30 that I had added the Quaife 11J to about a year & a half ago... now I have proper AWD with front & rear Quaife LSD's. Not many pics, I already documented the R&R of the rear elsewhere. Basically, remove rear shocks, unbolt brake calipers & suspend from shock mount plate. Disconnect ABS sensors & Haldex harness. Disconnect rear CV at Diff. Remove trailing arm forward bolts (4), remove subframe bolts (6). Slightly lower entire rear, then disconnect EVAP tubes (3) and unbolt leak detection pump from subframe. Drop rear. essential tool for removing rear axles from diff transfer Haldex module (DEM) from old diff to modded diff Fill AOC with .7 liter of Volvo-branded oil. Put diff back into subframe, install left axle into diff, push diff to left side, install right axle into diff. I did NOT want to deal with removing the hubs or separating the control arms to pivot the hub out. Replaced the left axle (used part) while I had it apart - I had repaired the inner boot on the original, and that had started spraying CV grease this past spring. Tipped the entire assembly over to the passenger side & filled the diff, also Volvo fluid, .7L While I had the rear down, I rewired the extra 2 wires (Y, WH) I had added for the VW DEM into the Volvo harness Going back together - had the Mrs push the rear subframe forward under the car whilst I aligned the pinion with the rear CV After that, it was all pretty much cut & dry, just several hours labor to put everything back together Almost forgot - I did install a new version CEIKA rear brake setup, this one has a mechanical parking brake, vs. the old hydraulic version that wouldn't maintain eBrake function over time. This version is MUCH cleaner design & pretty easy to set up - if only they provided proper directions, it wouldn't be so frustrating dealing with them These are the directions given for adjusting the caliper mechanism (step 11): Yeah, NOT HELPFUL I figured out they were referring to this grub screw - you can see an adjuster wheel inside (I had to remove the caliper to do this, as one cannot see inside the hole with the caliper installed) so, knowing now that there is an adjuster wheel, I tried rotating it CW, and then CCW to figure out which direction resulted in proper tensioning of the mechanism. I sent them these pics, hopefully they will include them (or their own) in future directions that make sense.
  6. Dang. Indeed, you were fortunate! The same thing happened to my daughter's 99 V70 AWD about 7-8 years ago - Driver's side balljoint came out of the knuckle - bolt still in place, she took pics of the carnage - and fucked up EVERYTHING. She was also lucky that it happened at low speed. She junked the car though - this was in Orlando & no way I could get there to fix it for her.
  7. Coming to EuroMeet in Ithaca this Month? Be great to see you & the wagon!
  8. I don't know - he was having trouble with stress cracks even back when he made it. Hopefully he will be @ Carlisle & I can ask him... The cool feature on the one I referenced (StiggyPop on TB) - is that he used the T/gate for the back of the cab, and it's functional. Plan is to do the same, possibly with a slightly shorter cab though. Going to +T it while I'm at at, and looking for C30 or C70 seats... Been racking up the parts to refresh engine, suspension, brakes, etc., in the process. Car sat for at least a couple years & rotors, calipers are fucked. One front strut sticks. One plus, the Koni adjustables from my XC BNE coil-overs are drop ins for the front. Picked up a used set of IPD bars & hardware. On the X1/9, got sidetracked with some additional rust (inner strut tower) repair I wasn't on dealing with this year. Added brake ducts that vent the rad tub while I was in there. added the fuse/relay panel up front - used a XC fuel filter bracket to fit it Used sections of the bumper bar off the S40 parts car to make the rusted strut tower outer reinforcement removed earlier All primed, painted, sealed & undercoated closed cell foam to seal the ducts Repurposed a chime relay to act as a lights-still-on warning - I do that all the time Dash finally going back in, with HVAC box renovated GPS box for Marshal speedo recessed into dash
  9. Bought this To make one of these. Hope to get started late fall/winter
  10. Sounds like you're better off with the locked coupler, based on your setup. Doesn't seem there is any reason to have the VC feature, and sell the good VC on.
  11. With the power you're putting down, the VC will lock very quickly - once I went over 350AWHP the torque split was 50/50
  12. I'll answer this from my perspective - I put 500AWHP through mine - it was the stock '00 coupler. They may hold more, I dunno. The freewheel mechanism is what failed first on the earlier ones I used (late 98-99).
  13. Does it have the same issue - circuit load carried by the switches? The windows are slow to operate without this mod - now they move in a more sprightly fashion. Thank you - it's been tough with the cold - laying on the floor of the garage sucks - even though I'm using several sheets of heavy cardboard, & tarp under that. With the paint, I have to work quick (with respirator) & then get out before the fumes get bad. More paint Removed the Rad/Fans/AC condenser to replace the damaged condenser I'd like to have added a Volvo fan - but just no room to make it work Cut slots to add side vents like a Volvo setup (took the flaps from my old V70 fan shroud) New condenser attached cleaned up the rad well Adding a VW two-temp fan switch Will use the 850/V70 fan relay - wired similar to this, just low speed to one fan & full speed to the other, since I don't have 2-speed fan motors Need to add a another fuse/relay panel up front to run the headlights, fans, etc.,
  14. Moving along with the floor... sanded the epoxy seams, ground back the rivets, primed & ready to caulk caulked - & final primer inside & out Seam is reasonably concealed on this side. I think once the (3M) Rocker Schutz & Undercoat are applied it will be invisible had time to get first layer of top coat on the inside also made a housing for the power window relay mod - I used 900 series relay sockets - based on this type retainer
  15. Nice work, Matt. That fuel rail looks awfully familiar Regarding the JPT terminal housings (4pole for original coil) - since you only need 2 wires, you CAN buy the two pole male # 106462-1. TE Connectivity "Automotive Connectors FASTIN-FASTON 2P HSG" The 2 pole female is 282189-1 I use them often & get them from Mouser. The 'Tabs" (male pins) come in a range of AWG crimp sizes, but you can remove the originals from the 4 pole & reuse the factory tabs - there is an awesome tool that does remove the male & female JPT terminals used all over the engine harness.
  16. It's been bloody cold here in my part of NY, along with some mild health issues, I haven't been doing much on the car - I'm lucky if I get the metal of the body up to 40ºF, so it sucks all the heat out of me leaning on it or under it to work. Anyway, I did have time to get the floor pan fitted. stripped all mating surfaces (about 1" overlap) Rough sanded for adhesion with the Fusor 2 part body epoxy. Cut the drain hole to match the factory drains in the three other areas. This product is very low odor and has about 90min work time - so not difficult to work with for fiddly panels like this put a schmear of epoxy over all the mating surfaces first, as they recommend, then approx 1/4" bead on one of the mating surfaces Installed. Setup times are all rated at ambient temp -around 70ºF - so it will take probably twice as long (at least) in the unheated garage temps of around 20ºF. Once it's cured, I'l grind off all the rivets ends on the inside & caulk the seams with a good paintable body caulk
  17. Nice! They really are overkill - but that does mean pads & rotors last much longer! You have CEIKA up front, correct?
  18. Yes, you buy the kit - offset adaptors (dependent on choice of rotor), calipers, rotor rings & hubs, new lines
  19. New calipers for the C30 - the originals (about 8 years old now) were intended for the V70 - the black doesn't go so well on a black car. Main reason was this - revised design for the eBrake New wheels (17") for my snows for next year - my Enkeis are kinda beat up now
  20. Dismantled & refurbished the HVAC box cleaned all the sections checked brushes, bearings, etc Made new Neoprene gaskets for the Evaporator Box to body seal Center vent housing seal Removed and refurbished the flaps - the upper one had a seized hinge, which cracked the main housing by stressing the recirc door repaired the hinges Made the recirc control removable - drilled out the rivets & used M5 rivnuts instead Haven't put it back in yet, as complete access to the floor pan for repair is easier with that center area unobstructed. I'v put this off for at least 6 years - so about time I deal with it Start on cutting out the rot 3 layers to deal with up here - not included in the replacement floor section cut back additional hole in the inner sill Replacement panel - not formed, but cut rough fit rebuilding the bulkhead layers Sill patches seams welded in floor section test fit again, had to deal with some adjustments from distortion when welding the cuts That's where I'm at - I hate rust repair. Getting there, slowly but surely.
  21. Nice work, Matt! Yeah, I know from personal experience that cam cover vents create a nightmare when it comes to designing a catch can/ external drain back setup You can get the large Oetiker clamps from McMaster, or Amazon. Using standard worm clamps is a bad idea - you can see where it has already dug into your silicone elbow...
  22. Covered the dash top with 1/16" neoprene foam , then adhesive backed vinyl.
  23. Been working on the dash wiring. Put the ductwork back in to check harness routing, had to rewire center console harness (again) to allow it all to be pulled back when servicing the console switch housing. This is where I left off, temps dropped into the teens, too cold to work out there Decided to work on the dash / cluster layout, since that I can do in the house & basement Went through several incremental revisions of the binnacle - which is a typical 80's Bertone layout - really boxy design. When Bertone designed this revision, they moved the entire cluster several inches closer to the driver, which cuts off visibility of the gauges. They did this to allow for the AC side dash vents to pass behind. Sloppy work, as they could have spent time making the layout more efficient & not add so much space between the bulkhead & IP pass side driver's side - you can see the offset of the fixed tube could have easily been angled to allow at a couple inches of more of additional space here Depth from dash to center vent - this is where the AC panel has to fit, so space is more critical chopped a couple inches off the back of the control panel, to allow it to sit back and on an angle Initial plan - eliminate some of the binnacle to reduce the overhang & angle the center panel toward the driver After 1st cuts - what I did was cut off the outer 1/2" lip of the binnacle first, to then attach it later once the work is done, hence the masking tape here Comparison with original binnacle ( I cut up the spare from my parts car) It appears the binnacle is solid rubber, or a rubber-compound, it cuts & smells just like old tires In cutting the binnacle, I also realized the cluster is elevated relative to the main dash, more obvious with the tapered exterior chopped back. This also doesn't help with gauge visibility, so I will address that also you can see the 'ramp' here chopped another section off the binnacle, and reduced the thickness of the lower ledge about 1/2" or so Having dropped the cluster base, I had to remake the face panel for the gauges. Will be covered in vinyl I had also chopped off all the stock cluster mounts, so I had to figure out a new system. What I ended up with, are those generic household shelving brackets - I drilled installed M4 rivnuts in them to secure the panel, and drilled through the rubber to utilize the existing peg mount test on scrap - recessed the flange into the rubber Five mounts in place - detail seat-of-the-pants rebuild of the center support panel for the AC controls & extra gauges (used to be the radio location). Reversed locations - AC on bottom, gauges one top. I use ABS plumbing cement here. Patch it together to align with available dash mount points (3) a little UPOL Gold to fill the imperfections where I chopped apron 3/8" off the top of the binnacle overall layout - moved WBO2 to main cluster, even with a modified VDO bezel, it still protrudes more than the old VDO & Veglia gauges (which I want to keep) AlpineTech makes nice indicator bulbs, so no need for the descriptor labels I had previously Happy with the overall flow now. I like the setback into the dash compared to the massive overhang of the stock layout. Just have to cut another tweeter hole (using tweeters from the S40 AWD parts car), and repair the one crack by the right of the center vent What I was using for comparison (in the setback of the cluster dept.) - the original dash layout -
  24. Looking good so far Matt! Better to go low amp & allow the metal to fuse instead of a large bead w/SS. The V-Bands are the toughest (for me) - getting a good angle & flowing the SS Vband into the pipe. The trick is to always start on the heavier gauge piece - which is sometimes easier said then done... This is one of mine - not a perfect weld by any means, but OK. I keep the clamp on it to reduce warping the flange from the heat. The main thing with SS is to STOP if the metal gets too hot - I'm bad at that as I'm not a patient person by nature Curious why you didn't opt for some Mandrel bend sections - makes life much easier, except for really tight areas like the DP/hotside bend. Some blobby welds visible here.