gilber33

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Everything posted by gilber33

  1. Arguably one of the best looking classic convertibles. Did they use adapters on there or is it a 5-lug swap? They are - at least I think they are. Everything is so sensible. I feel like it engineered very thoughtfully.
  2. Okurt. Heater box is out and disassembled and split apart for cleaning, replacing all the foam seals, and repairing the recirc flap. The arm mount broken off on one flap. There are two flaps, each controlled by a small motor to open and close the doors. It's really neat to see how the HVAC box works. Just so simple. The other flap starting to crack. I have some epoxy to fix them since they appear to be NLA after searching their part numbers. This little flap is only $3.50 and is the non-return air flap on the back of the blower motor. It appears it allows the motor to suck air in to the system but not "blow" it out. The rubber flap is completely dried and all online retailers are 3-5 weeks out for it. The local dealership ordered it for me, but it has to come directly from Germany. None in the US. Should have it in a couple weeks. And the other thing I did was new loom on all of the harnesses. Tesa 51608 tape is great for interior wire harnesses. It's a fleece lined harness tape that is really flexible and works great for eliminating squeaks on trim pieces, too. With this part done, I can run new speaker wires and RCA cables to the trunk and put the carpets back in. Since the HVAC parts are so far out, I'll switch my attention to engine bay and start getting read to drop the engine. It hasn't worked for about two years. It's likely a sensor and those are $160ea new. But I've gotten used to not having it and it hasn't been an issue. The only time I've locked up the wheels was bedding in the new brakes. But Rob is right, they take up a lot of space on the driver side frame rail. And even though I'm not doing anything else in that area, I'm stripping the engine bay to address some rust and would need to remove it entirely to get where I need to. Chase Bays has this kit to eliminate the ABS: It would dramatically simplify the brake system in front and with this kit all the brake lines on the car would be new. I have Chase Bays front to rear brake line kit and the caliper line kits. It's just another step to keep the car simple and reliable.
  3. Decent shape. Didn’t leak at all on the car. They’re a little dirty but should clean up nicely. Asking $100 shipped for all of it. No clamps included.
  4. The interior comes apart fairly easy on the car and maybe took 5 hours to get here. But I have all winter now. The to-do list between now and Spring is: Replace rear DS axle and wheel bearing. Replace RMS. Replace water pump. Refurb HVAC box. New speakers, stereo wiring, and amp. Drop engine and fix a couple rust spots and other general rust proofing. Paint engine bay. ABS delete and associated ABS delete brake line kit from Chase Bays. Other miscellaneous odds and ends.
  5. Had some relaxing weekends where the girls want to play in the driveway or hang out in the garage with me. The first thing I’m starting in the e30 is rehabbing the hvac box. Where the arm attaches to one of the flaps used in the recirc function was broken. Apparently the recirc is key for the ultimate cool air when using the ac. This weekend I was able to remove the dash and the box. While this is all apart I’m going to clean up all the wiring and reroute all of the stereo wiring.
  6. That’s right! Well, while doing the post-rally oil change, what I thought was a seeping water pump gasket was actually coolant leaking out of the water pump weep hole. Replacing the water pump is relatively involved so I have decided to park it for the winter. I’ve spent so much time working on it and I’m ready for a break. So I needed to get the rest of the stuff taken care of on the 850. Got on oem coolant hoses, new rubber intercooler hoses, plugs, plug wires, cap, rotor, OE ignition coil, air filter, and all new vac lines. This should get me through winter. If I decide to keep it for any significant amount of time it will need the turbo replaced, but for now it should be all good!
  7. Thank you! It was a blast and I would recommend it to anyone who enjoys driving. The group of people that do this rally is fantastic as well. It's not full of fanboys, it's people who build their cars to actually drive them like they're meant to be driven. The main issues I got home with were: The exhaust is rattling against something. Need to get it on the lift and see where that's coming from. I have a vibration at 80+ mph. Below that, it is non existent. Narrowed it down to the rear driver side. Both the axle and wheel bearing are new and from FCP. So I'll use their lifetime warranty and replace both. I'll likely drive the car some more this year, but this trip was the culmination of all the work I've been doing to it this year and nothing around here can top it. I almost feel like parking it on such a high note. It's also time to jump on some of the house projects that I've been putting off getting the car ready for the trip.
  8. Got back from the Overcrest rally yesterday morning. Car did 3,840 miles with virtually no issues. I have some things to work out, but mechanically it was great.
  9. Alright. We're 2 weeks out from the Overcrest Rally and a couple weeks ago I had an issue with the e30 dying. It started with the water temp gauge on the cluster becoming very erratic - needle jumping back and forth. Then the temp gauge I had installed started doing the same thing. *Note both these gauges are wired separately from each other with their own sensors* The next day it died on me while I was at lunch. It would start up, idle rough, I could get going but any load would cause it to stumble and die. I had a co-worker pick me up, get a new battery, and it ran great. Everything was steady, no issues. Drove it home. Drove it to work the next day. At lunch it died again. It appeared that the fuel pump wasn't getting any power. Fiddled with it for a bit and then it fired up. Drove it back to work and home like nothing was wrong. After the 850 was done, I tried driving it into the garage and it wouldn't start. Confirmed the fuel pump wasn't getting any power. I backtracked fuses and relays to where the main power comes into the engine bay from the battery in the trunk. I was getting 12v at the main lead and only 2 volts at the secondary power supply - which is the power source for the main relay and subsequently the fuel pump relay/fuel pump. The power lines had a good amount of corrosion on them. The battery terminal in the trunk was done haphazardly by the PO with a cheap clamp style terminal and the power lead for the main relay was connected to the clamp via a cheap ring terminal through one of the terminal bolts. All new power wire, new fusible link for the secondary power wire, new solder loaded terminal clamps, and power distribution blocks. I will also make all new ground wires with the leftover wire. Also replaced the AC condenser with what I should have put in from the beginning to accommodate the r134 update. The black one is more for r12 apparently. And yes, it's super wonky. LOVE working on the car in here.
  10. Thank you! We finally got the driveway in and everything around the house is finally grass again. Just an area by the driveway towards the garage to fill in with dirt and seed yet. I think it might have a tune on it. That's what the PO said, but as I started working on the car, I don't really believe anything he says since he spoke much more highly of the car than what it actually was. Things like "the turbo was just replaced!" but yet it's coated in oil and clearly has not left the car in a VERY long time. Also, he did the 302 conversion on the front, but didn't touch things like the control arms that had cracked and separated bushings. Whatever. I don't really have any performance plans for it. At least not for a while until the e30 is 100% sorted it out and I've gotten the R to complete stage zero. But with the suspension all sorted out I finally pushed it a little bit and I really forgot how smooth the power is on these cars. And it's quicker than I remember them being. And with every P80 I've had I've never "finished" them. Always sold them before I felt they were done. So I'd like to make this one completely right before I do anything with it.
  11. Didn’t even think to look for that while it was on there before. Thanks! Although it will have to wait to check the rack and do the inner tie rods since the e30 is now on the lift, the 850 got all new suspension and a new stock exhaust. It’s so quiet now which is perfect since it’s the main DD. My initial reaction on the Koni strt and IPD springs: the ride is pretty good. It’s not too harsh, I like how it sits BUT I have one complaint. And that is the Konis don’t seem to be able to keep with the IPD springs. I guess the verbiage would be that they are under-dampened? Most of the time it’s totally fine, but it’s on the bumps with a dip when I feel like the shocks are having a hard time controlling the bounce of the car. My daughters are prone to car sickness, and to be honest I think they would get car sick pretty quick in it. It doesn’t bother me much, and if they didn’t do this, I would love the setup. Im glad I tried it, but I’ll probably get some HR springs soon.
  12. I don’t know if this is an R specific thing, but the vehicle spec plate on the frame by the battery doesn’t match up with the information I can find on the internet for what type of inner tie rods I need? That code bank for this car doesn’t have the 4 or 5 where it says it should be. I assume it’s the TRW style, but I would like to confirm.
  13. Part of a bolt welded on to the mount and cleaned up. Test fitting the shock. And then all done. Needed a couple washers to clear the weld. But, beats what I’ve read on most forums that says the only fox is to replace the entire delta link.
  14. They’re just a smidge over 8’. It’s 8’ ceilings and they’re on a curb around the perimeter. Is the quick jack one that you can leave in place and drive over it so your not moving it all the time? And yes. I put the Koni Strt or whatever on with IPD springs. I had that setup on my S70 T5M a while ago and thought it was okay. It was the most affordable option, too.
  15. Thank you! That was always the vision. A place to do what I enjoy and space for my girls to hang out in there too. They love watching their shows in there. Working on this is giving me flashbacks from my first 850. The suspension was so crusty and the Konis were almost unrecognizable. So far I’ve ran into the PO cross threading the caliper sliders into the bracket, snapping off the end of the shock mount stud, and breaking loose one of the welded nuts on the driver side shock mount. So much PB Blaster and so much propane. The plan is to weld a portion of a bolt onto the end of the shock mount since all of the structural part is still there and all the nut does is keep it in place. Going to try and chase the threads in the bracket and use a die to clean up the threads on the sliders. And a nut and bolt for the shock mount.
  16. It was hard to tell exactly what my slab thickness was. I didn't go through into loose stone, I know that much. But those at MaxJax have said that if you use the epoxy anchors and you drill through your slab, to stuff something at the bottom of the hole to hold the epoxy as it cures. My drill holes were all solid at the bottom. Used this epoxy: It has a pretty high load rating, especially considering each post has 5 anchors: And tested it out last night. I have quite a bit more room to go up and it's already so much higher than it would be if it was on jack stands.
  17. Finally getting down to business.
  18. Got something from a friend to make the suspension job on the 850 easier.
  19. That’s what I put on the e30. The limited miles I’ve put them are positive. Quiet, good in rain, responsive, tire-y.
  20. Glad someone could use it instead of it sitting on a shelf.
  21. Might be making this the annual thing I do for myself. But getting ready to do 6 days and ~4,000 miles in the e30 in September.
  22. No I didn't. But I do whatever I want.
  23. I paid $7,500 for the 850R. The midwest is a p80 desert, especially for R's.
  24. Did this really need its own new thread? Couldn’t you have just updated the thread you started about the car??
  25. Really excited to get the suspension refreshed and some maintenance things taken care of.