mojojo

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mojojo last won the day on May 30 2010

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About mojojo

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  • Birthday July 17

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    Canton, GA

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  1. mojojo

    Venderbroecks Tinkerings.

    If its alright with John, I can just pick mine up from him. Or, for the sake of keeping things simple, I can go along with the shipping prefferences of the majority. Either way, I've yet to send final payment for shipping. I'm assuming you'll pm me with details when its necessary. Thanks again for your hardwork!
  2. mojojo

    How Your Car Sits

    Lots of work put into this car over the past few months. I'm really enjoying the car again.
  3. mojojo

    Venderbroecks Tinkerings.

    I understand. No hurry from me - take your time. Life is important, too.
  4. mojojo

    Venderbroecks Tinkerings.

    I would like mine to be switchable please. option #3
  5. mojojo

    The Rockway Chronicles

    Wow. I'm with the other jealous guy.
  6. mojojo

    Tuner4life's 1998 Saffron V70R

    I would just reseal the pump. I wouldn't worry about replacing timing components either. I've been fighting a leak in the same vicinity lately... I may have it resolved, but I need to take the car in for alignment before I drive much on the new tires. Do the job on a cold engine, Jack up just the passenger side, and I would think most oil should gravitate to the opposite side, spilling very little... At least that would beat covering the car in oil. I've been really concerned with contaminating the rubber in the right side mount, causing premature failure... Shared you get the hose for the oil lines?
  7. I haven't ever bought a whiteblock outside of the car before. However, I've bought many used japanese engines, all from overseas where maintenance history and mileage was most commonly, not available. There were a few things I would check when eyeing a prospective purchase. I'd open the filler cap and have a look. If there's an excessive amount of sludge it suggested possibly a lack of regular maintenance and/or high mileage. Check the outside sealing areas for leaks. If you see none - great. If you see a large leak, that tells you the owner either a) did not know enough to care/check or b) they did not have any inclination to repair (suggesting lack of maintenance again) Of course if that looked good, I'd finish with a compression and/or leak down check. The valve guide seals are not extremely difficult. If you could safely remove and install the engine, I'd say there's a good probability that you're capable of doing the seals. IMO, the scariest part of that job is the timing belt - getting it installed correctly (which is not much in itself). Like stated above, the only thing I'd probably do to it before I put it in is the rms. Regardless, good luck!
  8. You know, I'll play devil's advocate... I'm all for preventative maintenance. I'm also all for saving money. If there is no plan of investing a large amount of money (if you're contemplating whether you want to spend the few hundred dollars to do the valves, assuming you don't have the spring compressor already, you probably aren't), then pull the cover and check the belt. If it doesn't look like its going to pull the teeth off the next time it moves, then put the engine in and get it running. Once you're able to confirm it runs well, go back and put the belt on (IMO, this is not a difficult job at all in the car). IMO, if you're not pulling the head, the difficulty is not so much greater as to even remark, with the engine in or out. If you were pulling the head, do it with the engine out.
  9. mojojo

    Tuner4life's 1998 Saffron V70R

    This is my life right now. When I had the pan off to replace the sump o-rings in my car, I pinched the o-ring for the oil thermostat ever so slightly. This wasn't enough of a leak to drip, but it did wet the bottom of the pan. Like you, I also replaced the front crank seal, and the oil wasn't that high up, so I went back to the thermostat. I did notice when removing one of the two fasteners for the thermostat, there was oil on the threads of the bolt. Because the fasteners are placed outside the o-ring, the presence of oil there confirmed the oil leak's location. Initially, I coated the o-ring in grease, but it must have shifted slightly during installation. On the next attempt, I let the car sit overnight with the thermostat off the car - allowing any oil to drain. Then I cleaned the area thoroughly and coated the o-ring in a tacky layer of RTV sealant... thinking this would better hold it in place. So far so good... with the oil leak anyways. LOL!
  10. Valve guide seals... I don't know if I would go through the hassle if they don't appear to be leaking (and assuming it hasn't been sitting for some time). I will disclose I've done a number big repairs to my car lately, so I'm really out of the 'like' to fix anything that doesn't need it. With that said, most people here recommend Volvo OE seals. Apparently there's a high failure rate with aftermarket seals. I personally, used a Victor Reinz kit about two years (~40k miles) ago, and haven't had any issues. I've seen first hand, people using a socket to install the seals. I would not do this, because it creates probability for damage and subsequent failure. Where'd you source the engine from? I'm thinking I'll be in that market soon, with nearly 300k on mine...
  11. mojojo

    Venderbroecks Tinkerings.

    I'm very interested as well. Add me to the list, please.
  12. mojojo

    Tuner4life's 1998 Saffron V70R

    What a great feeling it must be, to complete all of those repairs at once. ...and of course, now you get to focus on what's left. Eh. I have had really strange no-start issues with faulty fuel pump relays. Usually, its after a good drive and restart, that the car won't start. After the first time, I disassembled the relay and found faulty solder joints. I repaired the relay and keep it in the car now, along with a handful of other failed (and repaired) electrical parts... lol.
  13. mojojo

    Tuner4life's 1998 Saffron V70R

    Too bad about the evaporator. I just wrapped up a heater core job on my 850. I installed new hoses, a Behr heater core, and new firewall junction. My Behr heater core did not come with new o-rings. I was able to get them locally, but I'm fortunate enough to have a good source close to me. If I was ordering on line, I'd order extras just in case.
  14. mojojo

    The VAST Wagon Build

    Yes, you are correct. I don't know how I was mixed up with that...
  15. mojojo

    The VAST Wagon Build

    Rule of thumb, is normally, loose valves cause noise (as the tappet comes off the cam/rocker arm). However, I have had personal experience with tight valves causing noise (though, not on a Volvo engine). With that, I'll give you some maybe-not-so-necessary advice. Try to get your hands on a stethoscope. You will use it now, and forever, when attempting to diagnose a noise. When I'm hunting a noise, one thing that I observe is the pace of the noise. The faster pace (because camshafts turn faster than crankshafts) points in one direction, and vice versa. Since you're into the top-end of your engine, I'll assume you've heard what a loose valve sounds like. Is the noise similar? Usually, when my ears hear a top-end noise, I would describe it as a clank. When I hear a bottom-end failure, I would use the word clunk - there's more metal behind the noise.