mojojo

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mojojo last won the day on July 6

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  1. https://www.motegiracing.com/product/wheels/mr147-cm7/?attribute_pa_finish=gunmetal MR14778045438 - 17x8 w/ 5mm spacer in the rear. using stud conversion with ET tuner lugs.
  2. Nice! were you in the S60? I don't recall seeing one recently... I work over by KSU.
  3. To be fair, I'm using a B5234T9 - so I've already got the best rods/crank from Volvo... and improvement upon the 850 lump. But, I agree, rods would be a good durability investment. I just don't want to deal with anymore downtime. I'd like to build that engine on the side.
  4. I have no intentions of ever getting rid of this car. I think at current power levels, it wouldn't be unreasonable to think this combo would make ~400whp with the move to e85... which is more than I'd want to daily drive and beat on a completely stock engine. Future plans include new intake manifold, larger (Garret/EFR) turbo, and building a more robust engine to handle those. ...ultimate want would be to do an AWD conversion ala simplyvolvo.
  5. You're exactly right - the mounting bracket on the box. This is v1.1 - v1.2 has even less of an impact to that area, but does still have a clearanced area. I'd say you're probably spot-on about modifying the box bracket as well. Perhaps a v1.3 is in the pipeline - I've also thought of remixing this with a 4" opening vs. the 3" that is currently.
  6. v1.1 is done and installed! Here's the final product, with a new peak of 1107 kg/hr - a gain of 29 kg/hr from just the air box/intake!
  7. The oil leak could be a number of things. Off the top of my head: Crank seal, oil cooler thermostat, oil lines, and cam seals can all present in that area. Best to clean it well and closely monitor for the location. as zappo said, bump stop has fallen. It still works, but can cause an annoying sounds when going over bumpy terrain. Not a big rock on this car, at this age. Watch the oil leak though.
  8. Aside from the heater core recommendation, here's one that goes unmentioned also. If you have a sunroof, makes sure the drains are clear and free of debris. Moisture in the cabin can cause condensation to form on the windows inside of the cabin. Additionally, table note of the position the car is on when you park it, i.e. the front is down or the front is up.
  9. Happy to announce the P2R setup is finally in. Findings are promising. Previous max from 1078 kg/hr with the open filter, to a new peak of 1105 kg/hr! Needless to say, the car is running well... and it's getting closer to the switch to e85! I've already incorporated some QoL changes to the air box snorkel for a v1.1 that will reduce the amount of filament to print it, increase the size of the opening into the air box, and result in a much better overall install and polished product... including addressing the odd mounting bolt location as seen inside of the air box. also upgraded PCV lines to 12an fittings. There's still a restriction (relative) to being true 12an at the catch can - I'm using 10an orb to 12an male fittings. Perhaps, down the road, there's a better breather box in the works.
  10. I'm running a 1/0 marine grade tinned copper cable from the starter positive terminal, around the passenger side of the engine bay - following the main harness into the cabin. The cable passes through the factory access point and down along the passenger rocker panel, finally into the the trunk where I've placed a 150A circuit breaker. The battery has been mounted on the passenger side of the trunk. I'm not really happy with my solution for the original battery... so still thinking how I would like to improve it. Maybe I do end up with an optima and billet hold down. Here's some pictures I took when plotting the route. I removed the cable to cover it with a conduit before finall install. I'm not sure that I've ever seen 400 whp flow through the stock box... Mine basically started having issues around ~300 whp. You can see in my graph on page 1, my RPMs were increasing, but airflow was staying the same or dropping.
  11. I decided to put the RN manifold project on hold so that I could get the car back on the road. Unfortunately, I'm not sure how long it'll be on hold. Seems like it may be a better idea to figure out a custom manifold setup with the combination of short runners and large(er) plenum. We'll see. Nonetheless, the P2R air box is in, battery relocated to the trunk, PCV system upgraded to 12AN hose.... and new cam hubs installed. I took the car out for a test drive last night and I'm happy to report no more flow restriction through the air box, like was the case with the 850 box. 👍 Still to do: work on the inlet adapter for the air box to accomodate the 3" hose from the bumper inlet.
  12. Made some additional progress on the RN intake manifold. Still a work in progress, but looks promising.
  13. It's not perfect, but it looks like a solid, well-sorted R. This would serve as a great starting point for someone. I think your price is fair and reasonable for both parties. It has a nice sway bar too...
  14. I think you'll get your along price for this car.
  15. Minor tinkering tonight. Started to remove the manifold to get dimensions of the pcv box top, and ended with finally cutting the corner off of the ported RN manifold I have. I've got the Deeworks adapter already, so maybe this is the opportunity I have to switch to this manifold. My understanding is that it flows more (+HP top-end), but has a smaller plenum (-mid range)... which has kind of been the theme of this car. It's pretty sleepy and docile below 3,200 RPM, but after that, power comes on like a light switch. I like it. Some cutting was required at the passenger side of the plenum in order to clear the PS resevoir, but I don't see that making much difference. It should be a good comparison flow-wise because this manifold and the N manifold it will replace were matched using the same gasket... and grinder. lol The old with a comparison to N turbo manifold.