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About mojojo

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    Addicted to R
  • Birthday July 17

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    Canton, GA

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  1. If its alright with John, I can just pick mine up from him. Or, for the sake of keeping things simple, I can go along with the shipping prefferences of the majority. Either way, I've yet to send final payment for shipping. I'm assuming you'll pm me with details when its necessary. Thanks again for your hardwork!
  2. Lots of work put into this car over the past few months. I'm really enjoying the car again.
  3. I understand. No hurry from me - take your time. Life is important, too.
  4. I would like mine to be switchable please. option #3
  5. Wow. I'm with the other jealous guy.
  6. I would just reseal the pump. I wouldn't worry about replacing timing components either. I've been fighting a leak in the same vicinity lately... I may have it resolved, but I need to take the car in for alignment before I drive much on the new tires. Do the job on a cold engine, Jack up just the passenger side, and I would think most oil should gravitate to the opposite side, spilling very little... At least that would beat covering the car in oil. I've been really concerned with contaminating the rubber in the right side mount, causing premature failure... Shared you
  7. I haven't ever bought a whiteblock outside of the car before. However, I've bought many used japanese engines, all from overseas where maintenance history and mileage was most commonly, not available. There were a few things I would check when eyeing a prospective purchase. I'd open the filler cap and have a look. If there's an excessive amount of sludge it suggested possibly a lack of regular maintenance and/or high mileage. Check the outside sealing areas for leaks. If you see none - great. If you see a large leak, that tells you the owner either a) did not know enough to care
  8. You know, I'll play devil's advocate... I'm all for preventative maintenance. I'm also all for saving money. If there is no plan of investing a large amount of money (if you're contemplating whether you want to spend the few hundred dollars to do the valves, assuming you don't have the spring compressor already, you probably aren't), then pull the cover and check the belt. If it doesn't look like its going to pull the teeth off the next time it moves, then put the engine in and get it running. Once you're able to confirm it runs well, go back and put the belt on (IMO, this is not a di
  9. This is my life right now. When I had the pan off to replace the sump o-rings in my car, I pinched the o-ring for the oil thermostat ever so slightly. This wasn't enough of a leak to drip, but it did wet the bottom of the pan. Like you, I also replaced the front crank seal, and the oil wasn't that high up, so I went back to the thermostat. I did notice when removing one of the two fasteners for the thermostat, there was oil on the threads of the bolt. Because the fasteners are placed outside the o-ring, the presence of oil there confirmed the oil leak's location. Initially, I coa
  10. Valve guide seals... I don't know if I would go through the hassle if they don't appear to be leaking (and assuming it hasn't been sitting for some time). I will disclose I've done a number big repairs to my car lately, so I'm really out of the 'like' to fix anything that doesn't need it. With that said, most people here recommend Volvo OE seals. Apparently there's a high failure rate with aftermarket seals. I personally, used a Victor Reinz kit about two years (~40k miles) ago, and haven't had any issues. I've seen first hand, people using a socket to install the seals. I would not
  11. I'm very interested as well. Add me to the list, please.
  12. What a great feeling it must be, to complete all of those repairs at once. ...and of course, now you get to focus on what's left. Eh. I have had really strange no-start issues with faulty fuel pump relays. Usually, its after a good drive and restart, that the car won't start. After the first time, I disassembled the relay and found faulty solder joints. I repaired the relay and keep it in the car now, along with a handful of other failed (and repaired) electrical parts... lol.
  13. Too bad about the evaporator. I just wrapped up a heater core job on my 850. I installed new hoses, a Behr heater core, and new firewall junction. My Behr heater core did not come with new o-rings. I was able to get them locally, but I'm fortunate enough to have a good source close to me. If I was ordering on line, I'd order extras just in case.
  14. Yes, you are correct. I don't know how I was mixed up with that...
  15. Rule of thumb, is normally, loose valves cause noise (as the tappet comes off the cam/rocker arm). However, I have had personal experience with tight valves causing noise (though, not on a Volvo engine). With that, I'll give you some maybe-not-so-necessary advice. Try to get your hands on a stethoscope. You will use it now, and forever, when attempting to diagnose a noise. When I'm hunting a noise, one thing that I observe is the pace of the noise. The faster pace (because camshafts turn faster than crankshafts) points in one direction, and vice versa. Since you're into the top-end of y