mojojo

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Everything posted by mojojo

  1. Checking in... the car has been running well. I think i've got an issue with the BCS/wires thats resulting in some intermittent under boosting issues. Been spending a bunch of spare time on some printer upgrades!
  2. https://www.motegiracing.com/product/wheels/mr147-cm7/?attribute_pa_finish=gunmetal MR14778045438 - 17x8 w/ 5mm spacer in the rear. using stud conversion with ET tuner lugs.
  3. Nice! were you in the S60? I don't recall seeing one recently... I work over by KSU.
  4. To be fair, I'm using a B5234T9 - so I've already got the best rods/crank from Volvo... and improvement upon the 850 lump. But, I agree, rods would be a good durability investment. I just don't want to deal with anymore downtime. I'd like to build that engine on the side.
  5. I have no intentions of ever getting rid of this car. I think at current power levels, it wouldn't be unreasonable to think this combo would make ~400whp with the move to e85... which is more than I'd want to daily drive and beat on a completely stock engine. Future plans include new intake manifold, larger (Garret/EFR) turbo, and building a more robust engine to handle those. ...ultimate want would be to do an AWD conversion ala simplyvolvo.
  6. You're exactly right - the mounting bracket on the box. This is v1.1 - v1.2 has even less of an impact to that area, but does still have a clearanced area. I'd say you're probably spot-on about modifying the box bracket as well. Perhaps a v1.3 is in the pipeline - I've also thought of remixing this with a 4" opening vs. the 3" that is currently.
  7. v1.1 is done and installed! Here's the final product, with a new peak of 1107 kg/hr - a gain of 29 kg/hr from just the air box/intake!
  8. The oil leak could be a number of things. Off the top of my head: Crank seal, oil cooler thermostat, oil lines, and cam seals can all present in that area. Best to clean it well and closely monitor for the location. as zappo said, bump stop has fallen. It still works, but can cause an annoying sounds when going over bumpy terrain. Not a big rock on this car, at this age. Watch the oil leak though.
  9. Aside from the heater core recommendation, here's one that goes unmentioned also. If you have a sunroof, makes sure the drains are clear and free of debris. Moisture in the cabin can cause condensation to form on the windows inside of the cabin. Additionally, table note of the position the car is on when you park it, i.e. the front is down or the front is up.
  10. Happy to announce the P2R setup is finally in. Findings are promising. Previous max from 1078 kg/hr with the open filter, to a new peak of 1105 kg/hr! Needless to say, the car is running well... and it's getting closer to the switch to e85! I've already incorporated some QoL changes to the air box snorkel for a v1.1 that will reduce the amount of filament to print it, increase the size of the opening into the air box, and result in a much better overall install and polished product... including addressing the odd mounting bolt location as seen inside of the air box. also upgraded PCV lines to 12an fittings. There's still a restriction (relative) to being true 12an at the catch can - I'm using 10an orb to 12an male fittings. Perhaps, down the road, there's a better breather box in the works.
  11. I'm running a 1/0 marine grade tinned copper cable from the starter positive terminal, around the passenger side of the engine bay - following the main harness into the cabin. The cable passes through the factory access point and down along the passenger rocker panel, finally into the the trunk where I've placed a 150A circuit breaker. The battery has been mounted on the passenger side of the trunk. I'm not really happy with my solution for the original battery... so still thinking how I would like to improve it. Maybe I do end up with an optima and billet hold down. Here's some pictures I took when plotting the route. I removed the cable to cover it with a conduit before finall install. I'm not sure that I've ever seen 400 whp flow through the stock box... Mine basically started having issues around ~300 whp. You can see in my graph on page 1, my RPMs were increasing, but airflow was staying the same or dropping.
  12. I decided to put the RN manifold project on hold so that I could get the car back on the road. Unfortunately, I'm not sure how long it'll be on hold. Seems like it may be a better idea to figure out a custom manifold setup with the combination of short runners and large(er) plenum. We'll see. Nonetheless, the P2R air box is in, battery relocated to the trunk, PCV system upgraded to 12AN hose.... and new cam hubs installed. I took the car out for a test drive last night and I'm happy to report no more flow restriction through the air box, like was the case with the 850 box. 👍 Still to do: work on the inlet adapter for the air box to accomodate the 3" hose from the bumper inlet.
  13. Made some additional progress on the RN intake manifold. Still a work in progress, but looks promising.
  14. It's not perfect, but it looks like a solid, well-sorted R. This would serve as a great starting point for someone. I think your price is fair and reasonable for both parties. It has a nice sway bar too...
  15. I think you'll get your along price for this car.
  16. Minor tinkering tonight. Started to remove the manifold to get dimensions of the pcv box top, and ended with finally cutting the corner off of the ported RN manifold I have. I've got the Deeworks adapter already, so maybe this is the opportunity I have to switch to this manifold. My understanding is that it flows more (+HP top-end), but has a smaller plenum (-mid range)... which has kind of been the theme of this car. It's pretty sleepy and docile below 3,200 RPM, but after that, power comes on like a light switch. I like it. Some cutting was required at the passenger side of the plenum in order to clear the PS resevoir, but I don't see that making much difference. It should be a good comparison flow-wise because this manifold and the N manifold it will replace were matched using the same gasket... and grinder. lol The old with a comparison to N turbo manifold.
  17. PCV setup takes a lot of what the guys making big power do, and just making it look nicer (and more expensive too...). I need to pull the manifold soon and take measurements of the can so that I can do a laser cut top. They're pretty cheap, I'll order a spare. Fuel pump is DW300 with high-amp wiring kit from DW as well. Works great!
  18. I think you can still get those new from Volvo for the wagon...
  19. We all know once that 'free' head space is available, something else will fill it. Never fails. 😄
  20. Not yet on the box, but I haven't got the car on the road again yet. Still down for the VVT hubs. The factory box was just over powered by how the hybrid k24 comes on, so I had to go to the open filter... If I can fit this air box and have no issues, that would be great. My fall back is too just build a new air box behind the driver's headlight.
  21. I hear ya' loud and clear. The photos of the house look great (I'm usually thinking about something on mine)! Take a step back, enjoy the fam, and something else will come your way. ...it's too bad cause I was hoping you'd design us an 850 retrofit kit. lol My 3dp experience is growing recently, so maybe i'll give it a try at somepoint in the future. My volvo is a lot like your BMW - it's not going anywhere anytime soon.
  22. When wife and kids come into the conversation, more than one tinkering car is too many. Car looks good though - should sell quick.
  23. With the air box fitted, I was able to finish up the intake pipe. There's a 1/4 npt bung for TCV reference line and a 12an bung for catch can return. I'm going to take this opportunity to move up to 12 an fittings for the breather setup. I've loosely designed a plate that I'm going to have laser cut from aluminum for the top of the PCV box - I'm using the RN box currently. I don't have a spare box that I can measure so I'll have to pull the one from the car and check it. I'll cut the outlets flush and braze a couple an fittings onto the plate, then glue/screw it to the box top. I've never been a fan of the solutions that I've come up with. This should put an end to any concerns with the system and serviceability of it. I ran the positive cable for the battery relocation and working on a battery hold-down that accepts the factory-sized battery. I'm not a fan of Optimas, and not really up to paying the $400-500 for Li tech... yet. And designed a plate for the laser cutter to mount my two service points in the engine bay for (+) and (-). This will mount on top of the piece of the car that holds the grommet for the air box. I spent most of the day today getting some needed upgrades done to the 3d printer. I went with the BTT SKR mini E3 v3.0 main board and TFT35 3.0 display. I've got one more upgrade to do with a direct drive extruder, but that will wait for another day.
  24. The bumper adapter only solves one piece of the problem though. The main issue was the 850 air box (used in combination with a C70 T5 lid and 3 in. MAF). From the data logs I could see that once the car made~ 850 kg/hr, the airflow would stall/drop as the engine speed increased. During one of my junkyard trips, I found a fresh, 2006 S60 T5 with the B5244T5, K24 and P2R air box. I grabbed the turbo and air box thinking I may use them one day. The day is today. The next step comes mounting the P2R air box in the 850. The larger filter used in that box should allow adequate flow. Along with the large opening of the air box, and proximity to the bumper opening, I should be able to get a straight shot into the air box from the bumper. This sounds promising... but also has obstacles - the battery, for one. The battery is getting relocated to the trunk with 1/0 marine grade cable. The first idea is to create a multipiece bracket that utilizes the old battery tray bolt locations and two locations on the frame rail. I printed the first piece and it does what it should. However, I quickly realize that I'm being me and making this more complicated than it needs to be. I call an audible and create this: I'll support this with a piece of aluminum stock underneath, so this really serves as just a spacer... but, it works like a charm. (and you can see that I've got the cams locked in this photo. The VVT hubs are worn so the car is currently down.) I've got everything lined up thanks to a 3 in. to 2.75 in. 90* reducer at the turbo and a 60* mandrel bent 3 in. pipe that is cut to length. I will braze fittings to this pipe for PCV hose and TCV reference line. I've definitely overlooked some milestones in the progress on this car. This brings me to where the car is currently. I'm going to try and do better at photographing along the way.
  25. 3D printing project number one: an air intake that allows for more, cooler air that the factory intake above the radiator. The plan is to utilize thhe bumper opening on the driver's side to get fresh air. I think I've seen an accessory at IPD that works for later model Volvos, but there's no off-the-shelf part that does this for an 850. My plan is to 3d print a part that can be fastened to the bumper and connect a hose to. This needs to be a good sized hose though. I think the IPD accessory is <2 in.? I started out with this concept: and through ~30+ changes, arrived at the final product that's both easy to print and looks great. With the help of some brass inserts, a face plate, six M4 screws, and a short section of 3 in. ID pipe, we arrive at the end result. I'm also happy to say that once installed, it easily can go unnoticed: