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andyb5 last won the day on September 27 2021

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About andyb5

  • Birthday 03/18/1991

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    Troy, NY
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  1. The US-market 99 R axles (4sp auto) for the M66 perfectly. The US-market 00 R axles (5sp auto) do not fit the M66. If for some reason your axles do not fit, you would need the axles from a 99/00 XC, 99/00 AWD, or 99 R - those modes all have a 4 speed auto.
  2. The photos speak for themselves. Nice work on the projector setup!!
  3. From a design standpoint, the N intake manifold has longer runners and the RN intake has shorter runners. Shorter runners are generally optimized for higher rpm flow. Runner diameter and plenum design factor into the results, but the general consensus is the RN intake manifold is better at high rpm than the N manifold. I can’t remember anyone who has actually tested the two stock manifolds head to head, but the theory says that RN intake manifold is better for HP and the N should generate low-RPM torque more effectively. Matt (simplyvolvo) did a significant amount of porting on his N head. During that process, he had some flow bench testing done and stock for stock, the RN head flows a bit more than the N head. Matt’s opinion is that the N head can be ported to achieve more flow than a similarly ported RN head.
  4. I’m 99% I’ve got one at home. Ping me during the week to remind me to check. If I do, I’ll happily mail it to you no charge
  5. Love it Brandon, wagon looks so good!
  6. You can’t give neg rep ? Weird - I can using chrome on iphone
  7. Okay, now it's actually time for the subframe installation and repairs to the damage caused by the control arm coming out. I drove to my buddy's house to do the work in his driveway. On Saturday morning, I got my car up on jack stands, then got the HF engine bar in place, and started disassembly to remove the subframe, the control arms, the steering rack + tie rods, and the motor/transmission mounts. The front swaybar (stock 20mm with Energy Suspension poly bushings) would come out and get transferred over to the new subframe. By Saturday evening, I had the old parts removed and the new subframe assembly nearly ready to install. To get the AWD-style front engine mount to bolt onto the FWD subframe, there is a small nub on the bottom that contacts the control arm bushing bracket. It quickly gets trimmed off, and problem solved: Starting again on Sunday morning, the new subframe had everything installed, and ready to get installed. Here's the list of new parts for anyone who is interested: Custom powder-coated FWD subframe w/ AWD transmission mount bracket and BNE Dynamics Delrin subframe bushings, OEM engine mounts, OEM 99 AWD transmission mount, TRW remanufactured FWD steering rack with inner tie rods, TRW outer tie rods, Lemforder end links, 93 850 aluminum control arms, new Meyle HD ball joints, new OEM ball joint bolts, and new hardware for everything else. Here is where things started to go sideways... With the subframe lined up and close to installed, I realized the rear engine mount on the FWD steering rack was hitting the downpipe and preventing the rack from moving upwards into position: Knowing that I would have to remove the whole assembly, that was enough to stop my progress for the weekend. Here's how it sat for a week until I could get back to work on it Now, in the process of removing the power steering feed line from the rack a 2nd time in the weekend, the o-ring that seals the line into the the rack was damaged. So I looked up the part number, called the local dealership and ordered a couple of o-rings. I got the o-rings picked up and the next weekend, I started work on my car again. Once the rack/subframe assembly was out of the car, I cut the rear engine mount bracket off the steering rack: Shot it with some black paint to make the cut blend in and soothe my OCD after hacking up a brand new steering rack: When I went to install the new o-ring on the power steering feed line, it was too small and didn't fit. Turns out, I gave them the wrong part number . I had to re-order the right o-rings, so that stopped my progress on re-assembling the subframe for the weekend. When the control arm came out and the wheel got ripped backwards, the fender was yanked outwards as well. I posted some photos of the cosmetic damage in my earlier post. What also happened was that the lower fender bolt bracket got yanked out of the chassis and the captive nut was broken. You can see that at the bottom of the fender here: I was able to find a "license plate nut" at Advance Auto Parts that fit properly and allowed me to bolt the fender back in place. The fender still needs to be replaced, but this kept the lower portion from flapping around as badly as it did before. I also took the opportunity to drain my ~2 year old OEM transmission fluid and replace with Redline Lightweight Shockproof. This calibrated syringe from FCP makes providing the proper 2.1 L of fluid incredibly easy and was a great purchase. I had also noticed that the top mount of the passenger side coilover had gotten a small bend in the accident. Given that my CX Racing coils had been installed for a while and were starting to get rusty, so I decided to replace both front coilovers to be safe. As an unplanned purchase, I couldn't justify JRZs, or even BCs, so I decided to give the Maxspeedingrods non-dampening adjustable coilovers a chance. At $270 shipped, it was worth the gamble. The shipped super quickly, which really was a pleasant surprise for free shipping. They looked alright so I got them installed on the car - I'll share some more detailed thoughts if anyone is interested. I HATE the way the orange powdercoating looks on the car compared to the black CX coils, but it's not that big a deal in the grand scheme of things. Then, on the THIRD weekend of this project, I had the correct PS o-ring and was able to get everything reassembled. Safe to say, it made a tremendous improvement to how the car rides and handles. Between the delrin subframe bushings, fresh control arms, new steering rack / tie rods, the front end feel of the car is totally transformed for the better. My dash mounts are pretty destroyed, and this nearly eliminated all the squeaking over rough roads. Next post I'll talk about alignment / new tires / unexpected issues portion of the subframe install saga...
  8. That's incredibly cool, nice score Gabe! And in case I haven't said it before, your garage looks like a perfect setup - plenty of space to work, storage to keep your tools organized, and a place to hang out too.
  9. Thanks! I was lucky to be in the middle lane and have time to control everything before stopping. Yeah, that's pretty much it. The only real difference is the 2 bolt vs 4 bolt control arms, otherwise, they basically the same part. And as anyone who has put an M66 in these cars knows, the driver side rear bolts are tough to get a wrench on without moving the M66 out of the way. The 2 bolt arms offer a lower cost to replace plus have more aftermarket performance upgrade options available (Powerflex, BNE Dynamics, etc). Oh man that's never a good situation, glad to hear your daughter was alright though!
  10. That sucks dude! Try to surround the car or even the perimeter of your garage with moth balls. Small animals hate the smell and will almost always stay away.
  11. No other cars around, got stopped safely - yeah, could've gone way worse for sure. Right? Such a weird failure. I apparently excel at finding strange ways to break my car. The subframe with the new welds hadn't even made it onto the car yet This definitely upped my paranoia about random failures - I haven't touched the front suspension in a year or so.... And yeah, definitely a good call to get that all replaced on your car, since rusty shock mounts seem like bad news. Thanks! Yeah, sucks it happened but all things considered, the outcome was decent.