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Everything posted by andyb5

  1. andyb5

    Andy's 2000 V70 R

    Here's the story behind my new-to-me 2000 V70 R. Its gonna be a long post, and picture heavy too! This thread will serve as a continuation of sorts of my 1999 V70 R build, which can be read here: The conclusion to that thread will come later this summer, as I will be pulling all the modifications of my 99 R, and transferring them to the 00 R. Now, onto the details of my new Venetian Red 00 R! My friend sent me the for sale ad on Facebook: For Sale Listing by Andy Buresh, on Flickr Here's a couple of the photos from the listing: 17620467_10154494181870784_372010645993208356_o by Andy Buresh, on Flickr 17620464_10154494182335784_8636334155269544591_o by Andy Buresh, on Flickr After spending a few weeks negotiating with the seller, I bought a one way flight to Denver, packed some tools in my bag (I did, however, forgot to pack underwear ) and went to visit some friends before picking up a car and driving it 1900 miles across the country back to New York!!! I landed in Denver Friday evening (May 12) in the early evening. While there, I got to check out the murals of the Denver Airport, and see all the other bits that are the basis for a long list of conspiracy theories. CD0E037B-3E37-400C-BC65-3B9EEC99E46C_zpsdkk1xhqi by Andy Buresh, on Flickr Here's how it sat when I picked it up from the seller at a shopping center a short walk from my friends apartment. 3E085BA8-179C-44A1-8A2E-76D24AD52A83_zpspm5hoheq by Andy Buresh, on Flickr Shortly after taking delivery of my R, I went on a hike in up Golden with my friends. The views were stunning to say the least. F107866E-885F-458D-96B5-147A206A9910_zpsdidwlu9z by Andy Buresh, on Flickr 2A293BF9-680B-4616-89D8-9C09AEC26E18_zpsnz8uztbw by Andy Buresh, on Flickr After lots of fun touring around the Denver area on Saturday, I packed my stuff into the car and started driving back to NY on Sunday morning (May 14th) with plans to stop at my friend's place in Cedar Falls, Iowa. Here are some photos from the drive Sunday. Nebraska was wide open, flat, and very easy to drive through: DSC_0429 by Andy Buresh, on Flickr Panorama by Andy Buresh, on Flickr Drove through miles of turbines in Iowa (despite the picture being of a singular turbine). There's a Don Quixote joke here somewhere.... DSC_0438 by Andy Buresh, on Flickr Cruising towards Cedar Falls, Iowa and got to watch the sun set DSC_0439 by Andy Buresh, on Flickr DSC_0443 by Andy Buresh, on Flickr Sunday's drive was about 800 miles, which took about 12 hours, and the drive home was off to a great, relatively easy start. Here's how my car sat outside my buddy's place in Iowa on Monday morning 2F90F4FD-E9DC-497D-83FF-2EDEAC70CDA8_zpshxorvcge by Andy Buresh, on Flickr When I left Iowa Monday morning, my destination was headed to Anthony's (@apeacock) house near Buffalo, NY. Monday held about 850 miles of driving, which was about 13 hours of driving. Stopped for gas in PA. I had a hard time with card reader on the pumps though.... DSC_0465 by Andy Buresh, on Flickr Made it to Anthony's around 10pm, did a quick test drive, and immediately face-planted into the extremely comfortable bed in Anthony's guest room. Monday morning before I left his house, Anthony took a cool photo of my wagon with his two wagons (99 R and 00 XC) AD9C4A8B-E5B0-485A-B77C-B0D08D8FB43C_zpsfg13jvwc by Andy Buresh, on Flickr Made good time on my way back to Troy on Tuesday morning - at this point, 300 miles seemed like a short drive to me I got to enjoy some really nice views in the mountains in western NY: DSC_0473 by Andy Buresh, on Flickr Here's how the odometer when I made it home: 568CF71D-B94C-4185-A996-1F446C56BBEA_zpsywubvime by Andy Buresh, on Flickr The entire trip was 1960 miles, and I managed an average of 26.8 mpg at an average speed of 70 mph. All of this was calculated from the trip computer. And here's how my two wagons sat when I got the office on Tuesday at noon: B3A2735B-B3FE-43FF-967C-25719CF8F975_zpsu4wuhzaa by Andy Buresh, on Flickr Earlier tonight I got it registered in NY, so now the build can begin. Stay tuned, this should be a fun project and I'm very excited to get working on it
  2. andyb5

    Andy's 2000 V70 R

    They’ll stay red for the time being. If and/or when I refinish them in the future, I’ll look at color matching them but that’s down the road a bit. Good idea though!! Thanks for compliments, and I really appreciate the comparison to Will! He’s been an awesome source of info to this community over the years, so that’s high praise as far as I’m concerned. I’m not sure what he’s up to lately, I haven’t seen anything for him in a while. Good in the info on the rotors. I’ll keep an eye out and if they need it, wire wheel them when I clean my calipers haha. This setup is already better in cold rainy weather than the solid rotors and R4S pads ever were - I think that’s more the slotted rotors but not sure. Thanks 😂
  3. andyb5

    Andy's 2000 V70 R

    I took advantage of some free time and the nice weather this past weekend to get my big front brake kit installed, and did a little bit of “while I’m in there” work too: I started the project by stripping and cleaning the front spindles that were originally on this R when I bought it. Since this wagon never saw road salt until I bought it, the spindles even have some of the factory paint left. None of the other cars I’ve worked on were in this kind of shape! Spend a while taping off all the “critical” surfaces and they’re ready for paint: After several coats of high temp primer and silver paint, they’re ready for new FAG hub assemblies to be installed: Here are the details on the actual brake package. The setup I made uses Brembo 4 piston monoblock calipers from a 997 911 Carerra S. These are the same calipers that were used on the 996 Turbo and have 36/44mm pistons. I have custom adapter brackets that @Timbo Slice machined for me so the calipers can bolt onto the stock front spindle. I’m using Stoptech Sport “309” pads with 330mm x 32mm rotors from an 04-07 S60/V70 R, and custom braided stainless brake lines. I previously ran Porterfield R4S pads, which were amazing when warm but weren’t as effective when cold. This car is a daily driver so I switched to the Stoptech pads in hopes of adding some low-temp bite without giving up high temp performance - only time will tell how they compare to the R4S. I chose Stoptech slotted rotors that will be a substantial upgrade over the factory 302mm x 26mm rotors. The increased swept area and rotor thickness create more area for heat dissipation, which ensures consistent performance when used aggressively. The larger 330mm rotor weigh about 5 lbs more than the stock 302mm rotor, but the weight penalty is well worth the increased performance. Two noteworthy benefits of using Stoptech rotors. One, they have coated hats and vents, which will protect them from rusting and keeps everything looking good. Two, all the exposed surfaces are fully machined after casting so the dimensional tolerances and weights are more consistent than other rotors. I assembled the brakes onto the fresh spindle/hub assembly and installed them on the car My car is filthy so I’m not going to post a full car photo The finished product sitting pretty After driving for a couple years with 302s, it feels great to have a more capable brake setup again
  4. Time to install the Porsche BBK from my old wagon: Stoptech slotted 330mmx32mm rotors from Zeckhausen Racing: x2 Stoptech 309 pads from FCP ATE Typ. 200 fluid from FCP Plus 2 new FAG wheel bearings and associated hardware: x2 x8 x2 I already have the 996TT calipers, custom brackets, and custom braided hoses.
  5. andyb5

    How Your Car Sits

    😂😂😂 Congratulations Greg!
  6. andyb5

    How Your Car Sits

    Red wins
  7. andyb5

    RWD swapping a p2 v70

    One winter in my old wagon, I blew up the front passenger axle doing donuts and drove it as rwd for a few weeks. Because the front diff is open, without the passenger axle, no power was sent to the drivers side. The angle gear always sees full power because of how the collar gear connects to the front diff. In my case, power to the rear was somewhat limited by the viscous coupler. If you were going to drive like that long-term, I would remove the viscous coupler from its housing and extend the driveshaft to transfer 100% power to the rear diff. I’ve toyed with trying that idea on a cheap XC but never actually did so.
  8. andyb5

    1998 V70R, Resto Mod Thread

    Looks like you’re off to a great start on bringing this wagon back to life! I’ll definitely be following along
  9. andyb5

    05 Volvo s40 "t5" modification

    Nope. You get a tune from Shark Performance, Hilton, or Elevate and load it onto the stock ecu. It’s as easy as plugging a cord into the obd port
  10. andyb5

    What Did You Do To Your Car Today.

    That’s an epic trip! I’m sure I’m not the only one looking forward to your impressions once you get behind the wheel. Do you have any MPH goal for the 1/2 mile event?
  11. VVT solenoid blockoff plate. An easy option but not the best for performance though. Aaron’s tunes can have basic control of VVT on RN-swapped M4.4 cars and it makes a noticeable improvement in spool time. Go check out his latest Instagram post showing the difference in spool times on @B_Dub‘s wagon.
  12. andyb5

    What Did You Do To Your Car Today.

    Congratulations, that’s awesome Brandon, you must be so excited to go for a drive!
  13. andyb5

    05 Volvo s40 "t5" modification

    A stage 1 tune is what you’re looking for, nice and easy. You won’t need any upgrades to support a mild tune like that.
  14. andyb5

    How Your Car Sits

    Thanks brad, love you too! 😂 thanks Brandon! I need some big brake caliper to help fill out the wheels a bit better but I’m pretty happy with how it sits right now. Thanks! Your looks good, Propus are a great choice! Fingers crossed you get that low boost issue sorted out, that stuff can be super frustrating. Lookin so good AJ!
  15. andyb5

    How Your Car Sits

  16. andyb5

    Volvo c70 Remap

    There are guys over here who make well over 500 awhp on a remapped ME7 ECU and Gustav has tuned many of them. ME7 is significantly more capable than M4.4 out of the box and a good tuner remapping ME7 requires far less modification to have everything in the canbus network work properly than adding Megasquirt would.
  17. andyb5

    Reasons for ME7 to limit boost?

    Clutch sensor won’t affect boost levels, I don’t have mine wired in and can hit 15 psi without issue. Have you flashed your ecu back to stock to see if it’s a software issue with the tune?
  18. andyb5

    Andy's 2000 V70 R

    Fix it Lucas! Fix it Lucas!!
  19. andyb5

    Andy's 2000 V70 R

    Thanks Brandon! Thanks greg! Just plain black center caps for the winter but I have nice BBS ones like this picture for when I put my summers on
  20. andyb5

    Spark Plugs for Tuned P80

    OEM plugs gapped at 0.028” have been good on both my 99 and my 00 with a Stevo tune. I ran NGK BKR7E for a while with the same gap and no issues, just a shorter lifespan than the oem plugs. The BKR6E mentioned above are 1 step colder than the BKR7E and probably isn’t necessary on your wagon because a “stage 1” tune is relatively mild and the COP ignition is fairly robust.
  21. andyb5

    Andy's 2000 V70 R

    Got a little free time to get this thing all cleaned up and I gotta say that I still love how this wagon looks. Even ~2 years after buying it, I still find myself spending an embarrassing amount of time admiring the way the paint shifts color and has so many different highlights and tones based on how the light hits it.
  22. andyb5

    Custom door tone sounds p2 cars

    Why the fuck is this in “performance mods” 😂 That aside, they’re different part numbers from Volvo, so you’d have to create a custom chime relay for the P2
  23. Start with the Kaplhenke Deleon subframe bushings. By far the best return for the money. Your engine, transmission, steering rack and front suspension all tie into the subframe. By stiffening those bushings, everything will function more than effectively - you’ll get better ride quality and better handling.
  24. andyb5

    05 Volvo s40 "t5" modification

    You can push the engine to the neighborhood of 20 psi or ~300 whp by installing a larger K16 turbo in place of the factory K04 turbo, getting an ecu tune, upgrading the intake and manifold, camshafts, intercooler and exhaust. For your stated goals, a downpipe and tune should be plenty, no need for anything else. The weak point is the engine block - lots of people have cracked a cylinder liner when pushing a stock engine to higher power levels. By installing Darton sleeves, the block is no longer the limiting factor and the engine should hold up to a substantial amount of power.
  25. andyb5

    Peacocks Wagon Build

    Yeah, all the spring force is against the collar. The collar engages several of the threads at once so it helps to spreads the force out.