andyb5

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Everything posted by andyb5

  1. I don’t have any first-hand experience with SKF although I know they have a good rep. I used Aisin because they’re the OE supplier - they simply grind the “Volvo” off the casting before packaging. The oil pans and the internal baffles are exactly the same between the B5234T8 that I removed and the B5234T9 that is being installed. It’s my understanding that the B5254T4 from a P2 R came with an improved baffle setup, but none of the other P80 or P2 motors did. The original B5244T2 was gone before I bought the car. Apparently a previous owner overheated it, cooked the head, and
  2. Not sure when they got introduced but here’s a couple pictures of the old metal and new plastic pickup tubes Old tube has a small diameter pickup screen New style pickup tube screen has a much larger surface area. A little bit hard to get a good photo of but it is close to double the area of the old tube You will need longer bolts to secure the new tube to the block - the points where the bolts pass through is about 1 cm thicker than on the metal pickup. I cleaned up the oil pan and block mating surfaces, installed new OEM o-rings, rolled out some Vol
  3. The pan is coming off to replace the o-rings and install the updated pickup tube. I don’t want to deal with that while it’s in the car, much easier to do now. I have a new 1 piece gasket, it’ll get installed before the engine goes into the car.
  4. Adding some additional wiring doesn’t really concern me, a similar process is required for the ME7 manual swap. I’m assuming the software side is less straightforward. Agreed on both accounts. Last night I got started on readying the replacement engine for installation this weekend. I brought it into the shop, picked it up off the shipping pallet, got the wiring harness and flex plate removed, then put it on the engine stand. From there, I removed the injectors, fuel rail, IC pipe, ETM, intake manifold, PCV system, radiator hoses, thermostat and housing, heater core hose
  5. I would think the ECU in my car could be upgraded to control dual VVT, given that a different version of ME7 can do so but I don’t know for sure. That’s a question for someone smarter than me
  6. I forgot to check Vibrant. Thanks Mikey. That’s good to know. Anyways, it turns out they have those same adapters too. Well, somehow, the Aussie version ended up costing less shipped to me than Vibrant’s is listed for I know Vibrant makes nice stuff so it’s probably better quality than what I got.
  7. thanks. I've done 90% of it to my car at least once at this point - guess that means I've been working on this project for a while I just ordered an adapter to run an aftermarket oil pressure sensor while keeping the stock dummy light - this an M14x1.5 extension with an 1/8" NPT port. It's made by a company in Australia, and I did order a few extras if anyone is interested. I also bought a bung to add a WBO2 sensor to my downpipe
  8. Merry Christmas to me... All these maintenance parts cost more than the whole engine I just bought....
  9. Thanks, going to get some parts ordered shortly then start tear down after New Years. if I was a central New Yorker I might take offense to that! My wagon is temporarily off the road since Chris @huntec was nice enough to loan me his Civic Si to drive home to my parents for Christmas so we had a red car party at his garage the other night. Side note: VTEC is pretty fun
  10. Eh, I don’t want to put a 99 hydro lifter head on an 04 (originally solid lifter) engine. If anything, I’d grab a dual VVT head to port and install that when the time came. A friend is doing something similar on his wagon this winter, so I’m curious to see how it all turns out Supposedly a whiteblock is about 400 lbs, definitely doable for 2 people. But if I can take the easy/lazy way out, I’m gonna
  11. Thanks! Yeah it’s pretty clean, the students in charge have done a good job with it this year. Those are long gone at this point I’m going to do a bunch of preventative maintenance but as of now, I wasn’t planning to take the head off it. If the head comes off, the probability of scope creep greatly increases and since this is an unplanned project, I’m trying to keep my time and money spent somewhat reasonable. I can always freshen up the head at a later date.
  12. Drove out to Re-Volv and picked up the replacement engine from Nick yesterday. It’s a B5234T9 with 127k from an 04 C70 - this is exactly the engine I was looking for! When it came time to unload the engine from the truck I rented, the shop’s lift couldn’t quite go high enough to allow me to drive the truck out so I had to enlist a couple friends to help
  13. Because the 71Rs are so sticky, they aren’t a good DD tire compared to the PSS (200 vs. 320 TW). I would wear them out simply commuting and not get the life I wanted. Plus, I got the PSS for a song when Tire Rack had em on closeout. I was gonna go with a performance all-season for longer life but the price of the PSS was too good to pass up. I spend 95% of my time in the car just commuting so buying ZOMG sticky tires is a waste. Your buddy got 25k out of the 71R because they were on an Integra that weighs significantly less than my wagon. I wouldnt have a chance at 25k out of 200 TW tire
  14. Just rolled over 209,000 on the chassis and close to 10,000 miles since the engine install/M66 swap in January. My thoughts exactly. Thanks for the encouragement Mike, it sucks right now but I know it’ll be better than ever once it’s sorted out. Thanks Dan, I appreciate the advice you gave me about the ceramic coating. I love seeing the paint all cleaned up, it makes me so happy! Thanks for the offer Hussein. Right now I’m looking at picking up a complete engine from Re-Volv but if anything changes I’ll let you know!
  15. I mounted them on 8” wide wheels. They have been fantastic, a noticeable improvement in every way over the Ventus V12s I ran last summer. The Super Sport has been discontinued and the replacement is the Pilot Sport 4S (PS4S) but the Pilot Sport 4 is a totally different tire. The PS4S is a more performance oriented tire than the Pilot Sport 4. However, we don’t get the Pilot Sport 4 in North America so I can’t offer any comparative feedback.
  16. Thanks Brandon! Sounds like an interesting project. You should start a thread to keep track of all the progress on your engine build! Matt’s motor was being dropped at the machine shop in Connecticut a couple months ago, my guess is it’ll be a bit longer before he has any updates. Yeah I should’ve done the pan o-rings already but I didn’t have any indications of trouble until this noise started. I have a feeling it’s too late now. I didn’t check the VVT hub yet, that hadn’t occurred to me. @JoshV70 let me know what you think of the video I just posted.
  17. Here’s a short clip of the sound - it starts a few seconds into the video, then fades out at the end. Based on the frequency of when it occurs, it sounds to me like it’s coming from the bottom end. It gets worse as the engine warms up, and increases proportionally with the RPMs as the gas is applied. The video is only at idle but I can get a video of it being revved if that helps.
  18. Well, recent events may lead to an unexpected change of direction for this project. The engine has developed a ticking sound from the engine. I first noticed the sound occasionally appearing late last week, and it has begun to become more constant. I'll do some more investigation/documentation to confirm, but right now I'm 99% sure one of the rod bearings is toast I'm now on the hunt for a replacement engine. As much as I'd like to build a fresh bottom end, budget and time constraints mean that won't happen at this time. My ideal replacement for this 99 B5234T8 would be a B52
  19. Took a ride down to Stevo’s today and had him work his magic on my ECU. He remapped everything to play nicely with the B5234T8/M66 swap. It’s amazing how much better it is to drive. He has a modified ecu that lets him live-tune the car, so I could feel the effect of the revisions while I was driving which was super cool! Among other things, Steve reworked the throttle map so it is much smoother than the old auto tune, especially when decelerating in gear. Boost is set for about 15 psi which is great since I still have the stock downpipe and intercooler. I couldn’t be happier with how it t
  20. Last night I swapped to snow tires and tonight I checked my spark plug gap before heading to Stevo’s tomorrow for a tune.
  21. Thanks for going back to fix all the pictures Hussein, that’s a valuable wealth of knowledge for the rest of us to reference!! Glad to see you’re still finding new and innovative ways to use Volvo parts for custom purposes. That seems like the thermostat housings worked out pretty nicely. What was involved with the intake manifold modifications? Looks a fair bit different than the stock Honda manifold..! If i had to guess, you’ll end up adding some boost to the K24 at some point down the road Since the K24 flows so nicely in NA form, my understanding is they respond really well to
  22. The good news is photobucket is back up, albeit with a watermark on the photos now. If your account is still there, the photos will display like they used to in your posts. Nice work on the X1/9 body kit!! Love how it transformed the car I have a feeling that once you start playing with the K24 you’ll forget all about modifying Volvo’s...
  23. If you’re gonna spend the ~$350 on a new CV joint, just get a remanufactured driveshaft from Colorado DS.
  24. Thanks guys!! Do it!! The painter said to wait at least 4 weeks after the paint got laid down, but with how schedules worked out it was about 6 weeks before it got buffed and ceramic coated.