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Everything posted by andyb5

  1. If I haven't posted a picture of how my car sits in a few months, am I still active? 850 looks good, what're you looking for in a wagon Gabe?
  2. I always disconnect one end link from the strut to decouple the whole away bar assembly and then move/rock the car. If the noise goes away, it's a bad endlink or worn sway bar bushing.
  3. If I were to redo all the bushings in my rear suspension, I'd seriously consider buying the poly version on Retro Turbos site
  4. Woah! That's really bad, lucky the engine didn't hydrolock!!
  5. Damn dude that's so frustrating. Should be pretty simple to see if it's getting spark though. Good luck, and I hope it's something simple!!
  6. Last night I replaced my heater core and firewall coupling. The heater core itself is easy enough to do but replacing the firewall junction with a hot engine bay is not fun! Its really nice to have heat again after having bypassed it due to a cracked firewall coupling during my M66 swap a few weeks ago.
  7. Drivers front caliper seized up due to a torn dust boot: Swapped it out for a remanufactured ATE from the local parts store and all is right again:
  8. andyb5

    Andy's 2000 V70 R

    Thanks! Yeah, decided to wait on the body work until the weather is nicer - didn't want my nice fresh paint to end up all chipped from the sand/salt on the roads. I'll share updates on the body work as they happen!
  9. andyb5

    Andy's 2000 V70 R

    A couple weekends ago, I swapped the B5234T8, M66, and all associated parts from my old 99 R into this wagon. I started the work on Friday 1/19 and finished up on Wednesday, 1/24. Pulled the front subframe assembly from my 99 R into the shop and got my wagon ready for the swap: Untitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr Engine bay before. It was a mess, everything is covered in oil and PS fluid from a swollen, leaky reservoir Untitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr The engine is ready to come out: Untitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr Lift the car up and off the front subframe, then roll the subframe assembly out of the way: Untitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr "Old" and "new": Untitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr Clutch master installed: Untitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr Ran the hardline from the clutch master to the slave cylinder. I notched the airbox bracket to allow the line to fit without passing through the bracket. The OEM routing through the bracket makes it nearly impossible to remove the bracket without disconnecting the clutch line, which is a pain in the ass. Untitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr Disassemble the ECU box and pull apart the connectors to modify the CANBUS wiring Untitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr Depinned, cut, and crimped the TCM wires together. After crimping, I used some heat shrink to seal the joint up and ensure everything stays protected from the elements. Untitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr You should never use a solder joint on a car; a proper crimp joint is a much more reliable and durable connection. A solder joint can potentially crack due to the vibrations created by the engine and drivetrain. Of course, I only learned this after I soldered these wires on my old wagon Untitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr B5234T8/M66 bolted back up and in the engine bay Untitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr Got some help from my girlfriend replacing the spark plugs and installing the newer coil packs from the B5244T that came out of the car.Untitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr I lost the better part of two nights of work trying to figure out why my heater core connection was leaking. After many trials and tribulations, it turns out there was a small crack in the connection for the lower hose. I temporarily bypassed the heater core until I could order and install a new firewall coupling. Untitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr How it sat for the first attempt at starting. I was a little nervous because the engine had been sitting since September. I put a couple drops of oil in each of the cylinders, cranked it over by hand a few times, and thankfully it fired right up on the first try! Untitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr Center console is all buttoned up: Untitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr And a couple glamour shots of the finished engine bay: Untitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr Untitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr I still need to get a tune from Steveo, but I'm so happy to have a M66 in my life again! I'll update this post a little later with a full list of all the work I did during this project but I wanted to get all my photos uploaded and shared with you guys! Here's a list of the setup I installed for this project. Parts in bold are new to this car, other parts were previously installed on my 99 R. B5234T8 from my former 99 R with ~223,000 miles. Factory 18T w/ angle flange Forge CBV Snabb intake pipe w/ Spectre cone filter (I really should buy a higher quality filter...) 99 R downpipe w/ Bosch (OES) O2 sensors Rebuilt cylinder head BTCC style dual oil filler necks w/ IPD Viton filler cap seals OEM valve stem seals Bosch (OES) coil packs and OEM spark plugs "R" manifold + OEM MLS gasket from P1 Gates Racing timing belt Aisin (OES) water pump Xemodex ETM New OEM RMS Powerflex polyurethane upper engine and firewall mounts M66C (from 05 S40 T5 AWD) w/ 99 R angle gear OEM single mass flywheel, Sachs SD 693 clutch, OEM 850 R pressure plate P80 clutch master cylinder, new P80 clutch master to slave cylinder line, new P1 FTE (OE) slave cylinder P1 shifter and cables, R Design aluminum shift knob PDV Motorsports upgraded collar gear Colorado Driveshaft remanufactured 99 R driveshaft New OEM coolant reservoir/cap/hoses, new OEM water pipe hoses Rack Doctor remanufactured steering rack w/ inner tie rods and new OEM outer tie rods. New OEM 05+ power steering reservoir, new OEM 05+ suction hose, new OEM return hose, new OEM steering column u-joint. OEM sway bar with Energy Suspension polyurethane bushings and custom adjustable endlinks I spent a couple hours cleaning and degreasing the engine bay. I also installed a VW 99 adjustable wiper relay; which is one of my favorite convenience modifications for these cars.
  10. Started putting the B5234T8 and M66 from my 99 R in the Venetian Front subframe is close to ready to come out of the Venetian, should drop it out first thing tomorrow morning.
  11. It broke above freezing for the first time in 2 weeks, so I drove through the carwash and in doing so, figured out where the leak at the top of windshield/above my passenger door is coming from.
  12. Awesome work so far!! Glad to see you brought it back from the previous owners neglect and are enjoying it at the limit during autocross too!!
  13. In the past, people have used a brush bar from a Ford F-250 as a lightbar on the front of their wagons. Steve (ghostshadow) was the first to do so on his XC - other mods included 27" tires, camo, etc. That may help you find something that works as a light bar.
  14. andyb5

    Andy's 2000 V70 R

    Thanks Kevin! It actually took me a few hours split over two days to get everything done, including modifying the fender liners to fit and everything. It's a tedious process, but was worth it to ensure everything came out well. I'm pretty confident that with the right wheels I could fit more rubber. At this point, I want to focus on optimizing the front suspension geometry (scrub radius, roll center, etc) to use the grip I have better before I go to more rubber, but a future setup more rubber is definitely something I've been thinking about. Here's something along the lines of what I had in mind: Still working on getting the bodywork sorted out, I'll post updates on that as things progress.
  15. Mike, are you/your son going to fix the S70?
  16. IPD Stage 3 suspension?!? No way!!
  17. I'm sure there is a torque spec for the lock ring, but I have no idea what it is. Here's the tool: Make sure the fuel pump seal is fully seated in the tank before tightening the lock ring - I had a hard time getting the seals aligned at first.
  18. If you have an opportunity to grab some M12x1.75 threaded rods, put one in each of the 4 larger bolt locations in the chassis. It makes reinstalling the subframe so much easier. Glad you found the source of the leak and it's an easy fix! Did you buy the actual tool to install those lockrings or are you using channel locks/pliers like I did?
  19. andyb5

    Andy's 2000 V70 R

    Thanks gdog! Yeah that's the same process here. My car was valued at ~$3,500, and after deducting a scrap value of ~$100, I got a check for around $3,400. I need to review it the work with the shop I'm taking it to, but fingers crossed it'll be enough to get my car fixed. I trimmed the fender liners to fit up onto the folded lip. It's not a perfect solution, as they're hard to remove for maintenance, but for now it's functional. I'll try to share some photos of what I did next time I'm working on the car. Thanks! I'm going to see about getting some other paint work done while I'm in there, but I don't think I'll be repainting the whole car. Thanks, hopefully I can get it fixed. Any money left over from the insurance will be spent on paint/body work, it just makes sense to do as much of that as I can while it's already at the paint shop. Nope. The total loss doesn't really affect my ownership of the car. While there are some cosmetics that need to be addressed, this car is so clean underneath due to it having never seen road salt before that I really don't want to move onto another one. Put the Satellites and studded Altimax Arctics back on for winter Untitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr Here's where you can really see the front fenders have been pulled - the front wheels sit about 2 inches inside of the fender Untitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr
  20. Sorry to hear that. I had so many gas leaks after I replaced my fuel pump, but my issues were self-inflicted when I had to remove the OEM bulkhead wire fitting.
  21. Looks killer, really nice job on that whole project!
  22. Love the new wheels Lucas, when did you get them?